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Due to the growing popularity of Labradoodles, we hear more and more people unknowingly adopting their Doods from unethical breeders and puppy mills. This helps reduce the risk of the puppies inheriting any genetic conditions that can greatly affect their quality of life or even lifespan. All of these organizations are committed to responsible breeding and require their member breeders to adhere to their highest breeding practices and health testing standards. As one of the highest rated ethical Labradoodle breeders in TN, Australian Heritage Labradoodles is committed to raising the best quality family-friendly pets. They only have a few litters each year so they can provide each pup all the attention and affection they need during those crucial first weeks from birth. In addition to that, Australian Heritage Labradoodles follows the Puppy Culture program and is focused on socializing each puppy before going to their new homes. They also implement the Early Neurological Stimulation method ENS and introduce the puppies to regular grooming, crate training, potty training, all sorts of household sights and sounds, and of course, people of all ages. What Makes This Breeder Unique? That, along with our unique puppy socialization program, makes a Cabin Hill Labradoodle the perfect companion for life. We also endorse and follow the protocols of "The Puppy Culture" program to help every puppy feel safe, loved, and confident. At Cabin Hill Labradoodles, we believe in giving your puppy the best start in life. As a proud member breeder of the Australian Labradoodle Association of America we are committed to the health, well-being, and development of the Australian Labradoodle. Our goal is to build lasting relationships with our families and support each puppy, dog, and family as they develop and grow. At Cabin Hill Labradoodles, all of our puppies are raised in our home as part of the family. This ensures that every puppy gets the best care, socialization, and interaction possible with lots of love and attention. All of our doodles are first and foremost members of our family that live, play, sleep, and eat in our home. We love our dogs and know that you will too! Our lists fill quickly, please contact us soon to learn more about our process and how you can bring a Cabin Hill puppy into your home! We DO have puppies that will be ready to join families very soon! Millie and Josie puppy will be ready for their new families in early September. Check out our available puppies and upcoming litters pages. Lovely Little Labradoodles These breeders are small-scale breeders who operate from their homes in the mountains of east Tennessee. Their puppies are well cared for and come from their own family dogs. The puppy parents have been genetically health tested and are OFA health certified. These Labradoodle puppies in Tennessee have been fully vaccinated and receive regular health checkups at the vet. They are all F1 Labradoodle puppies that have been genetically tested for health risks. Each puppy is brought up with much love and has been socially exposed to other animals and humans. They also house train the puppies before they are made available. In addition, the Labradoodle puppies have been acclimated to various sounds and sights of urban life. Operating since , these breeders are quite new, but they have some amazing reviews on their website, and they post content on their social media pages and their youtube channel. They care about the health and happiness of these Labradoodle puppies in each Tennessee. They are definitely not the cheapest option on the market, but they ensure healthy standard Labradoodle puppies in Tennessee. Their goal is to get you a puppy who will be a healthy, lifelong family member. The deposit can be used for a future litter if required, but it is non-refundable. The final payment will be made at the time of adoption. At this time, you will receive a starter package along with your new little furry friend. Puppies sold are only pets; further inquiries will need to be made if you want breeding rights for the dogs. The dogs they breed have the best temperaments for family dogs and are great with people and kids. They can also be further trained as therapy dogs. These breeders specifically specialize in therapy dogs. This started because the family required a therapy dog after a family member suffered a stroke. They found so much comfort through this Labradoodle that they decided to work on this project with passion. Now, they aim to provide the perfect Labradoodles for companionship and care. They make available puppies in Tennessee that are not only super friendly, but they have the softest coats and are very cuddly and loving. The Labradoodles are raised with the utmost care. Each puppy is brought up in a secure, home environment. Each puppy has been socialized by contact with dogs and humans. The puppies are also genetically tested and receive regular vet checkups. All of this is to ensure happy and healthy Labradoodles. If you wish to get a Labradoodle puppy in Tennessee, Calypso Breeze is a great option. You can easily fill out their online application form and put in a deposit for an available Labradoodle puppy. These puppies will not be shipped to your home. However, other options for pick up are available. Learn more Morning Glory Doodles does not just limit themselves to Labradoodles. They specialize in all poodle-based breeds, such as Goldendoodles, Bernedoodles, Irishdoodles, and of course, Labradoodles. They involve their dogs in health, temperament, and intelligence training from a young age, so their pups have inquisitive minds and make great family or therapy dogs. Morning Glory provides a 2-year warranty for any genetic defects. Furthermore, if you find a pre-existing condition within 1 week of taking ownership of the puppy, you are entitled to compensation for the veterinary bills or a full refund of the dog. Morning Glory also offers a Guardian Home program, where you can adopt the doodle for a fraction of the cost, but you must give your pup to Morning Glory to be impregnated when she begins her heat cycle. They also offer an adult adoption program, where you may adopt a retired breeding dog. The price of the pup varies depending on the coat color and size. Although the lower price may seem more attractive, avoid backyard breeders at all costs. They subject their pups to terrible living situations and often inbreed their adults; this leads to lifelong medical and behavioral issues. The first thing you should do is to choose a local breeder and try to meet them. Look at their set-up. Are they near the puppies at all times? Or do they leave them outdoors? How much attention do they pay to each pup? Look at the doggie parents as a good indicator of how your pup will be as an adult. They should be sociable, well-fed, and hygienic. Also, ensure that the breeder is willing to provide a pedigree as soon as possible. The best way to find a breeder is through references. So, ask around on places like Facebook or even a dog park! Look for breeders that have a lot of good reviews and have a reputable name. Check out these posts:. Welcome to Australian Heritage Labradoodles. We specialize in miniature and medium sizes in all colors, with non-shedding fleece coats. Our mission is to protect the integrity of the Australian Labradoodle breed by always upholding the value of quality over quantity! A few of our most recent puppies.We are located in Chattanooga, Tennessee. Chattanooga, Tennessee is centrally located in the heart of the Southeastern United States. We deliver to local and regional airports, and have delivery options available, if needed. We are looking for Guardian homes. Check out our guardian home program. Learn More We are looking for guardian families that live in or around Chattanooga, Tennessee. Since we do not use kennels, in order for us to grow our breeding program and ensure all of our dogs are raised as pets in a loving home, we offer a guardian home program to qualified families. We pick out the very best puppies to join our program, so our guardians will get the most desired, highest quality puppies, at a highly discounted price! The puppies will be theirs for life, and we will retain breeding rights during the timeframe allotted in the guardian home contract. You can read more about our general requirements on our Guardian Home Program page. Because we do intend to remain a small program, guardian home opportunities will be limited. We will choose our guardian homes based on qualifications and fit, not on a first come first served bases. If you are interested in learning more about our guardianship opportunities, please fill out our Guardian Home Application. Time to shop! Now you can Find a full list of recommended puppy products on our "Australian Heritage Labradoodles' favorite things" list on amazon.

Some Final Words As you may already know, it is all about genetics. Even in the animal kingdom the birth of a puppy, what they look like, and their breed is all dictated by genetics. Black human parents in Africa have been known to give birth to albino children. It is not a rare event and the same goes for Labradors. Dark-colored parents can give birth to Yellow or light-colored puppies. However, for white and yellow labs, they may not give birth to black puppies. The reason for this is that they do not have the gene that produces the black color in their offspring. If the gene is there, by some miracle, then yes, they can have black and even brown puppies. But that is the only way for white and yellow labs to have darker-colored pups. You can mix the parents and that would be one way to get the right gene to produce the black color. Did your puppy start out as a white lab, only to turn yellow later? Yes, they can. It all depends on the genes that the two black parents carry. The gene for the black color is B and the gene for the brown color is b. If the genetic code of the parents is BB then they can only have black puppies. If it is Bb or bb, then there is a chance for brown puppies. If one of the parents has the E gene, then it is possible for the parents to produce yellow puppies. Then there is the ee gene. This is the one that is needed for black parents to produce white puppies. The color of the puppy you get will depend on what genes the parents have and there is no real way to guess which ones they have until the puppies are born. This is a very simplified explanation as there are more details involved in this breeding process. What do you know about White Labrador Retrievers? You get two wonderful parents that produce a very unique set of puppies. In reality, the color of the coats will not matter as Labradors are capable of producing puppies with different colors. The color of the puppies you see will depend on the type of genes the parents have. A black dog could have a BB gene or BE gene while the white dog should have an ee gene. Those genes can combine and produce some colorful results. There may be a red or silver lab, a yellow, brown, or black lab in the litter. This has happened before as there have been litters with just about every possible Labrador color in it. As long as they are healthy, all colors of the Labrador will have all the characteristics of the normal black, yellow and brown labs everyone is familiar with seeing. Are White Labradors Good? Click here to learn more. The most common result will be with yellow labs. They on carry the E or e gene and not the B or b gene in most cases. When you mate two yellow labs with the EE or Ee gene, etc. These parents do not carry any genes that would produce darker puppies. The same goes for the brown and black Labradors. If the latter only has the BB gene, they can only produce black puppies. The brown Labrador parent needs to have the b gene to produce more brown puppies but there is a possibility that they will produce black puppies as well if they have the Bb gene. When you start mixing those genes, that is when you start to see litters with a variety of colors including red fox, white, and silver. Some Final Words To get the color of Labrador puppy you want, you need to make sure the parents have the genes to produce that color. Then not everything is certain that your preferred color will show up. When it comes to breeding, it is all biology and genetics. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Please note: We are not veterinarians and you use our advice at your own discretion. We always recommend that you consult your veterinarian whenever you have health-related conditions your furbaby is facing. With that in mind, as pet parents ourselves, we wish nothing but the best for your pet and their healthy and happy lives. Among the three colors of Labrador Retrievers, black, yellow, and chocolate, black Lab pups are the most popular in both the U. Because black Lab pups are so popular, many people decide to get one, and head for a pet store or answer a classified ad. One Small Problem One small problem with hunting black and white lab puppies is that there is not much information about them. The store is, after all, selling them as such, and why would they do that if the puppies were not purebred? You scan the book rack at the pet store, and find nothing. You go to a nearby bookstore in the same mall, and look at books on Labrador Retrievers. Black and white Lab puppies in info given by store clerks or breeders are Lab pups of mixed breed. They may look much like a Lab pup, but any puppy with more than a little white spot on the chest is not a purebred Labrador Retriever. Consider the standard for Black Labradors. Black Lab puppies must be black from head to tail. There should be no brindle markings, no streaks or flecks of different colors. The same standard applies to chocolate Labs and yellow Labs. A true Labrador Retriever is never black and white. Just A Pet If you just want a Lab pup as a pet, and do not care about its bloodlines, a little black and white, part Lab may be just what you want. Find out how we get chocolate, black or yellow puppies and what color pups we might get when we mix Labradors of different colors. Strictly speaking, there are only three different types of Labrador color: black Labs, brown Labs usually referred to as chocolate and yellow Labs. These are the three colors recognized and accepted by the Kennel Club In practice, there is a wide range of shades of yellow Labrador color, from palest cream to richest fox red. But what makes a Labrador brown, or black, or yellow. And what about Silver Labradors? Where does this new and controversial coat color come in to play? Where do Black and Chocolate Labradors come from? The information that determines whether or not your Labrador is basically black or basically chocolate is passed on through a pair of genes. Why black is a dominant color: It is normal for dominant genes to switch off, or over-ride, recessive genes. And that is exactly what happens here. A dog with BB genes will be black, because he has no little b gene, the one that gives us a brown coat. But a Bb dog will be black too, because if the dominant black gene is present, it switches off the brown gene. How chocolate Labradors are made: Even though a dog inherits a little b gene, the dog will only appear brown if no black gene B is present at all. Two black genes BB gives you a black Labrador One of each Bb also give you a black Labrador Two brown genes bb gives you a chocolate Labrador Remember that the black dominant gene always switches of the brown gene, so only the dog at the bottom will actually look brown. Generation after generation of black dogs can continue to have only black puppies if dogs with the Bb gene are only ever mated to dogs with BB genes. Remember, the dog in the middle of our list above will look black, but pass the brown gene on to about half of all its offspring. But things are never that simple are they? Because of course some Labradors are neither black nor brown. The genetic information that creates a yellow coat comes from another pair of genes altogether. And these genes have a different kind of power. The result is a yellow dog But little ee is recessive, and if the dominant E gene is present, it switches off the masking gene. It only takes one big E gene to do this. So the dog will only appear yellow if no big E gene is present at all. There are three possible combinations of eee gene that a dog could inherit. There are nine different possible combinations. Nine different possible Labrador genotypes! The chart below lists them genotype is the genetic makeup, phenotype is the appearance of the dog. Lab health and care Labradors can have white marks on their chest, feet, and tail. Although it may prevent your pup from registering as a show dog. Do you have a black Lab with a white chest? Click the links above to jump straight to a section that interests you. Or, keep reading to find out everything about black Labs with white chests! The Labrador breed coat color is the result of gene interaction, and the presence of certain alleles. We will look into the genetics of coat color in more detail a little later. This old breed had a thick black coat. In appearance, it is similar to the modern Lab, and the modern Border Collie breed! This is because it had an abundance of white markings amongst its darker fur, predominantly on its chest, face, and feet. In fact, initially, white markings on black Labs were more common than the other fur colors, chocolate and yellow. Until all Labs were black, but some had white markings. You might be thinking, does this mean I have a mixed breed? Not necessarily! Mixed breed puppies will inherit random characteristics from either parents. But, purebred Labs can have white markings too. Even yellow Labs! White markings on yellow Labs are just a little harder to see. Labradors with these white markings on their fur are often called mismarked Labs. But, because this marking was present in original Labrador ancestors, they are also possible in modern purebred Labs. Is My Lab Healthy? If you have a black Lab with white chest markings, you might wonder if there is something wrong with your puppy. Is it healthy? They will be just as healthy as any other Labrador puppy! We will look in more depth at Labrador health a little later on. The only difference between a mismarked, black and white Lab, and a standard colored one is your ability to show them. So, a black Lab with white chest markings may not be right for you if you only want a dog to show it. But, white markings on a working Lab or family companion are absolutely fine. But, there are actually lots of other markings that are common on Labs! Black and Tan Markings Some Labs have white markings, but others can have black and tan markings! This is pretty rare. But these puppies can have tan points above their eyes and on their ears and muzzle. Some people think this trait is the result of early cross-breeding with Gordon Setters. Brindling Brindling is a distinct pattern where brown fur has flecks of black and red throughout. This mark has a really interesting history! Many people believe that dogs with this mark are descendants of the first dual champion dog, called Banchory Bolo. Even if puppies are born with this mark, it may fade over time. Or become covered in black hairs. But, like the Bolo mark, this can also be covered by fur as your puppy grows up. Mosaic Labrador A Mosaic Lab will have patches of yellow and black. These are perhaps the most unusual markings! Lab puppies will come in one of the three:.

All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Lay your contact paper out beforehand and measure it. Use a ruler to measure the contact paper and mark the measurements with a pencil. Cut the sections of contact paper using scissors. Remove any air bubbles in the contact paper by rubbing it with your palms. The self-adhesive contact paper should stick to the plywood itself. Even if the contact paper seems secure, it might lift up and the puppies could chew on it. Use the staple gun to secure the contact paper to the floor of the whelping box. Staple as close to the sides of the floor as you can. Place staples between two different pieces of contact paper if you want extra security. Aim the staple gun so the staple pierces the edge of one piece and the edge of another, binding them. Make sure you line the strips up perfectly with the floor of the box. These strips will form the 3 walls of the whelping box. When you're finished, the three strips should form a "U" shape along the sides of the floor. If you need to, have someone stand on the plywood floor and hold each wall as you drill the holes into the plywood. Drill holes at the corners of each wall and another hole in the center of each wall. Use your screwdriver and screws to secure the walls to the floor of the whelping box. Turn the screws to the right to secure them in place. Keep turning the screwdriver until it's very difficult to keep turning it. If they rattle or feel insecure, use the screwdriver to tighten the screws. You might need to drill extra holes between the middle screws and the outside screws in each wall if the walls aren't secure enough. Use the screwdriver to place the screws in these holes. Again, drill holes in the left side, middle, and right side of the doorway strip when you have it lined up with the floor of the whelping box. Use your screwdriver and 1. Here are some ideas for your small dog. Cardboard Box One of the least expensive whelping boxes is simply a cardboard box. Make sure it is big enough that your dog can stretch out in it. The nice thing about a cardboard box is that, once you no longer need the whelping box, you can simply throw it away. To make a whelping box out of cardboard, use these easy instructions: Find a box that your dog can comfortably lie down and stretch out in but not much larger than that. The sides should be at least to inches high. You want the sides to be too high for the puppies to climb over, but not so high your dog can't get over it when she wants a break. Smaller breed dogs will be fine with 12 inches, whereas larger breeds will need 24 inches. Cut a "door" into the side of the box for your dog to move in and out of the box. The width of the doorway should be about twice her body's width, and the edge should be high enough to keep puppies in but not so high she hits her belly on it. You will want to use some sort of covering on the cardboard to keep it from getting wet and to make cleaning it easy. You could line it with duct tape, plastic sheeting, tarps, or plastic drop cloths made for painting. Then cover whatever material you use with newspaper or old towels to make the flooring soft and comfortable. Plastic Storage Bin A plastic storage bin can also be used as a whelping box. You want to use the under-the-bed storage type so that the sides will be short enough for the mother dog to easily get in and out. If you decide to go this route, fold old towels on the bottom to ensure there is no chance that your dog will slip when she is moving around. Be aware that depending on the size of your pups, they may be able to get over the sides of the bin as they get bigger. In that case, you can extend the sides of the bin with cardboard. Ideas that will work for bigger dogs, such as Labrador Retrievers and Rottweiler dogs , include: Appliance Boxes If you have a mid-sized breed, you may still be able to find a cardboard box. Check with appliance stores and home improvement stores that carry items that would require bigger boxes. If you can't find one, you still have some inexpensive alternatives. The downside to using these boxes is once the puppies get large enough, they will be able to get over the sides, which they wouldn't with a traditional whelping box with sides at least inches high. Kiddie Pool A hard-sided plastic kiddie pool usually costs less than twenty dollars, and you can get them in several sizes. They are also easy to clean. These pools will last for several litters of puppies. However, just as with appliance boxes, the problem with the kiddie pool is that the sides may not be high enough to keep the puppies in as they get bigger. There are newer types of kiddie pools made just for dogs that have higher sides. Another option for larger dog breeds is to use a water trough , which has higher sides. They're much more expensive but very sturdy and can be reused for whelping, as well as an outdoor pool or bathing area for your dogs. To make a whelping box out of a kiddie pool, find a pool size where your dog can lay out comfortably with some extra room for the puppies. You can line it with a round whelping pad, old towels, newspaper, or even covers made specifically for kiddie pools used for whelping. An excellent safety precaution is adding a PVC pipe frame that serves as puppy rails to keep the mom from rolling over and crushing a newborn pup against the sides. Just be sure the puppies can't get stuck under or between the pipes. To keep puppies from getting out of the pool when they get larger, you can run x-pens or playpen panels around the outside of the pool. Make sure you leave a doorway for the mom to come and go! Whelping Box Plans If you want to build your own cheap whelping box but prefer a different style, you can find simple whelping box plans on the Internet. Here are some to get you started: Are you InTheKnow? Sign up for our newsletter featuring all the latest stories and products we love. Invalid email I agree to receive email communications from LoveToKnow. You can adjust the size for your own breed of dog. The plans are for a very sturdy box that is easy to clean and take apart for storage while standing up to a lot of usage. Supplies needed include two 4-foot by 8-foot plywood sheets, four 2-by-4s for the pig rails, polyurethane, and hardware, such as steel three-corner braces, tee nuts, and cap screws. You'll also need a table saw, drill press, router, screwdriver, and drill with several bits. While the website includes detailed plans and instructions, if you're not accustomed to working with tools and lumber, you may want to hire a contractor to build this box for you. How to Build a Whelping Box with Puppy Rails The PetPlace website provides a very detailed set of step-by-step instructions on how to build a whelping box using plywood, wood strips, vinyl flooring, hinges, and corner braces. You'll also need to be handy in order to build this box, as tools required are a circular saw and drill. The floor is optional, and the instructions allow for removing it to create a bottomless box. The puppy rails are made from the wood strips, although you could also improvise and make a set of puppy rails using PVC pipes and connectors. Building a Whelping Box Another excellent set of plans for a whelping box built with plywood and hardware is found in this YouTube video. The box described in this video has the puppy rails built into the sides as well as two shelf areas in the back for supplies and can be placed on cheap vinyl flooring tiles for easy cleanup. The box was made for a labradoodle , but you can adjust the dimensions of the plans shown in the video for your own dog's size. Cheap Whelping Boxes for Sale If you're not mechanically inclined and balk at the idea of building anything with tools and lumber, you can purchase a box. There are plenty of options if you're on a strict budget. Check with local seller websites such as Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace to see if anyone is selling a box. You can also look on eBay. If you know of any breeders in your area, you could try contacting them to see if they might have a box they want to sell or possibly even rent out to you. It's made of plastic and comes with one whelping pad and PVC puppy rails. If you plan ahead, you can check out the websites of some major manufacturers of high-quality whelping boxes to see if they have sales. Easy to Improvise There are a number of less expensive, homemade whelping box ideas that will work for dogs of all sizes. You can improvise to create suitable whelping boxes that won't break your budget without too much trouble. Just spend some time looking at whelping boxes so you know how they are made and pick the most comfortable and safest style for you, your dog, and her pups. View plan 3. DIY Detachable Whelping Box A homemade whelping box will be much more cost-effective than buying one from the store or hiring an expert to build one for you who may or may not be familiar with your breed of dog. Whelping Box On A Budget! Gain new skills along the way: Working on a DIY whelping box project will teach you carpentry, painting, and construction skills — all while bonding with your pet! Easy DIY Whelping Box Be patient as you plan and build: Building a whelping box for your pup requires patience and focus — but it will be worth it in the end! Puppy Whelping Box .Whelping Box for Pregnant Dog .What Materials Do You Need? Building material There are many different options, such as plywood, cedar boards, cedar shingles, and so forth. Insulation Comes in many different types, including recycled newspaper, paper towels, bubble wrap, and so forth. Dogs love to feel cushioned when giving birth, and these items are easily found at most thrift stores. How to Assemble the Box: step by step guide 1. Cut them both from the same board. Stack them together and mark a line 3 inches in from each edge. Line up the marks on each side of the board and clamp them together, so you have a straight line down the center. Once clamped, use your circular saw to run down the line between each pair of marks, making sure not to go too deep into either side of the board. Constructing the Box Once you have your plywood cut, you can begin assembling your DIY dog whelping box. Be sure that all edges line up correctly the two pieces should fit together , and screw or nail them together using 2-inch nails or screws. Do both sides. Step 2 Put the other piece of cedar or plywood in the opposite direction, line up the edges, and then screw or nail them together. Step 4 Take a small scrap piece of wood and attach it to one of the ends. This will be used as a door for the whelping box. You may need to adjust the length depending on your door size, but be sure to measure twice and cut once. Step 5 Nail or screw in place with 2-inch nails or screws. Step 6 Now you have the frame of the DIY dog whelping box. Now we need to insulate and cover it with carpet or old rags. This makes for an inexpensive and simple DIY project, which will keep our pregnant dogs warm and comfortable during the birthing process. Step 7 After the insulation has been placed, get ready to put the rug or cloth on top. Using your staple gun, secure it around every edge. Step 8 Paint paint paint! Place plenty of food and water near the whelping box, as well as a litter pan if necessary. Conclusion A whelping box is a must for any dog owner who wants their pup to feel safe and cozy. Building the box yourself also saves money, which is always a bonus. To help support these efforts, this page may contain affiliate links. I may earn a small commission for qualifying purchases at no cost to you. Here I show you how I make a whelping box that is easy to take apart, move even up and down stairs and fairly easy to store. I prefer white or woodgrain. You would not need to have to store the platform, then. I prefer a raised platform and our puppies do, too. I also find it is really nice to add sheets of insulation between the support pieces to add warmth to the box. I measured the width of two of the shelving boards together and cut that amount off two of the boards. With the shelving boards cut, I started building the platform. I hope that makes sense! Screw all of your boards on. I took everything inside, wiped it down, and laid out my pieces. Note: I do not glue the vinyl down. I just lay it over the platform and put my side boards on top and it gets screwed down with the brackets. This way there are no glues to harm the puppies and I can throw it away after each litter. I then put it all together with the brackets. I use the flat brackets on the top corners. When the puppies are ready to get out of the box, by weeks of age, I remove one of the sides as you can see in the photo below. So, I do not have exact measurements, but I think most could figure it out. I build mine by first assembling the box, then I lay the PVC elbows in each corner of the box and one tee in the center. Cut the straight PVC pieces according to your measurements and put it all together. I do not use glue and do not seem to need it. The Little Blessings in their puppy room. These whelping boxes worked out fantastic for us and our needs. I hope this helps someone. A whelping box is a safe, enclosed space where a dog can give birth and care for her puppies. The box typically has high sides to prevent the puppies from accidentally falling out, and it is often lined with soft bedding material to keep the puppies warm and comfortable. The box may also include a heat lamp to provide additional warmth, and it may be equipped with a door that can be opened or closed for easy, safe access, and to regulate the temperature inside. A whelping box should be large enough for the mother to move around comfortably, but small enough to retain body heat and provide a feeling of security. It should be used from the time your dog goes into labor until the puppies are weaned. Once the puppies are weaned, they can be moved to a puppy pen or dog crate. By the way, a whelping box should also have puppy rails. Puppy rails, also known as pig rails, are secured inside the whelping box quite low around the perimeter of the box. This is a crucial safety feature, as it helps prevent the puppies from being crushed against the wall of the box How Does A Whelping Box Help? A dog whelping box is an essential piece of equipment for any dog owner who is expecting a litter of puppies, as it helps to ensure the health and safety of both the mother and her offspring. A whelping box provides a safe, warm environment for your dog to have her puppies. This helps keep the mama calm during the labor and keep stress levels to a minimum while caring for the pups in a safe space. If you have other pets in the house, a whelping box ensures that they do not disturb or hurt the puppies. Using a whelping box also reduces the risk of the puppies becoming injured or lost. A DIY whelping box is an easy and affordable way to provide a safe space for your dog to have her puppies. Building a whelping box is a simple project that anyone can do. There are quite a few different ways to do that — most of them being very simple, quick, and inexpensive. Choose a bin that is large enough for your dog to move around comfortably, but small enough to retain body heat. If the sides are very high, drill or cut holes in the sides of the bin for ventilation. Finally, line the bottom of the bin with appropriate materials to absorb any mess. And there you have it, a cheap DIY whelping box! Find a sturdy cardboard box that is large enough for your dog to move around in. Cut holes in the sides of the box for ventilation. You should also cut an appropriate sized opening for the mama and puppies to get out of the box comfortably. Line the bottom of the box with comfy and cushy materials that absorb any mess. Cardboard is very porous and it can get flimsy rather quickly. However, you may want to opt for something sturdier and less porous instead. Bring Out The Kiddie Pool You can build a whelping box out of many different materials, but one of the cheapest and easiest options is to use a kiddie pool. To create a kiddie pool whelping box, simply clean the pool thoroughly, secure the puppy rails you can use pool noodles for this , and line it with towels or blankets. Place the pool in a quiet, draft-free room in your home and make sure that it is big enough for your dog to move around comfortably. But, a sturdy wood whelping box can be used over and over again, making it well worth your time. Of course, you should carefully consider which type of wood you use. For instance, the popular plywood is actually very porous, making it harder to clean. It also traps in dirt and bacteria, which could lead to infections and illnesses. Start by measuring your mama dog and the area where you want to place the whelping box and cut the wood to size. Be sure to make the opening large enough for your dog to comfortably enter and exit. In addition to that, you should also attach low rails inside the box. But why PVC? PVC is a strong, durable material that can withstand a lot of wear and tear. And if it does get dirty, a quick wipe-down is all it takes to clean it. In addition, PVC is lightweight and easy to assemble, making it ideal for use in a whelping box. Many whelping boxes available for purchase are made from PVC materials thanks to all of their amazing qualities. But, as you may know, ready made PVC whelping boxes can be quite pricey. However, PVC pipes make excellent pig rails for that added safety and security. Obviously, you want to make the DIY whelping box as comfortable as possible for the mama and the pups. Some breeders also use heat lamps to keep the whelping box warm. Even though some people opt for newspaper or wood shavings, we recommend you avoid them. Another popular choice is using old bedding or towels. They may get trapped or accidentally crushed by the mother. However, if you manage to secure the blankets and towels in place, they should be safe to use. In addition to that, you can also opt for a specially designed crate pad that stays in place, provides warmth, and is safe for the puppies. Line the bottom of the box with absorbent material and change it often. Wash bedding in hot water and disinfect surfaces regularly. The bedding should be dry at all times, so whenever an accident happens, be sure to change the bedding as soon as possible. Where you place the box is just as important as the box itself. It should be in a quiet area away from the main traffic flow of your home, and out of direct sunlight. You should also keep it far away from potential hazards like open stairways or fireplaces. The whelping box should also be large enough to accommodate the mother dog and all of her puppies comfortably. The temperature in the area should be comfortable — not too hot and not too cold. If necessary you may have to get an additional heating pad or a heating lamp to keep the puppies warm. To build a basic DIY whelping box, you will need either a kiddie pool, cardboard box, or a storage bin. You should also stock up on bedding material like blankets, towels, or crate pads. Next, line the bottom of the box with your chosen bedding material. This will help to keep the puppies warm and dry. Finally, place the box in a quiet, private area where your dog can feel safe and secure. By following these simple steps, you can easily create a cozy space for your dog to welcome her new puppies into the world. PVC tubes are often used to create puppy rails, a. As we mentioned earlier, a dog whelping box should be big enough for the mama and pups to comfortably move around. Yet, it should be snug enough so that it retains body heat. The general recommendation is that a whelping box should be one foot longer than your mama dog. Only measure your dog stretched out, as the mama has to be able to move and stretch comfortably around the box while caring for the puppies. By the way, you can also get some hints from websites that sell different dog whelping boxes. Just take a quick peek at what sizes they offer! It provides a safe, warm environment for the mama and her pups, and helps to contain the mess. Building a DIY whelping box is a simple project that anyone can do. Do you have any tips for building a DIY whelping box? Share them in the comments below!

Though size varies between individuals, a standard German Shepherd weighs about 60 pounds. Whether you already own a German Shepherd pup or are looking into it, be prepared for a hefty lap dog! Continue to 7 of 16 below. They were originally bred for their striking good looks and intelligence, making for a great working dog on the police force and in the military. They were so cute that dog-lovers in other countries soon caught on and began breeding them themselves. Continue to 8 of 16 below. These dogs are very protective of their homes and family and make excellent guard dogs. Continue to 9 of 16 below. They need stimulation, even if they are a family pet and not a trained deputy. This can be in the form of playful games, puzzle toys, tricks , and obedience training. Otherwise, German Shepherds may show off some unpleasant behavior, like chewing. Continue to 10 of 16 below. Continue to 11 of 16 below. Continue to 12 of 16 below. They perk up as they grow older, making them look extra tall and important. Continue to 13 of 16 below. Beautiful all black and all white German Shepherds are out there, too. Continue to 14 of 16 below. Continue to 15 of 16 below. This breed is inherently athletic and courageous—nothing can stop them, not even water. Continue to 16 of 16 below. Life Span Did You Know? The German Shepherd is one of the most versatile, well-recognized, and popular dog breeds in the world. The modern German Shepherd is descended from a family of various German herding dogs. Breed standards were not developed until the late 19th century when Captain Max von Stephanitz, a German cavalry officer, worked with Arthur Meyer and other breeders to develop the ideal German herding dog. Stephanitz and Meyer wrote the breed standard in and the American Kennel Club recognized the German Shepherd as a member of the Herding Group in .Although they were originally bred as herding dogs, they were also bred for versatility, which made the German Shepherd an all-around working dog that could excel in a variety of applications. German Shepherds are one of the common dog breeds employed in K-9 units in both police and military applications. They also make great service dogs and, of course, are still awesome herding dogs and farm dogs! The German Shepherd is a strong-willed and highly intelligent dog. They have a playful, energetic spirit and tend to get along with children, other dogs, and other pets, which makes them a great family companion. A born protector, the German Shepherd will provide a great sense of security for their family while their loving and lively personality will make them fit right in as a companion. German Shepherds are naturally protective and can be wary of strangers at first. A well-socialized German Shepherd will bark to alert you and tends to warm up to strangers once introduced. German Shepherds are dogs that were bred to herd and work. This, plus their high energy, makes them a better fit for homes with fenced yards where they can run. They can adapt well to larger apartments as long as plenty of time is dedicated to ensuring they get enough exercise, mental stimulation, and attention every day. A bored, ignored, or under-exercised German Shepherd can often become a destructive one. They also can be sensitive to their surroundings and large gatherings can be off-putting. With a longer coat, they tend to prefer cooler climates and are sensitive to heat. The German Shepherd is a generally healthy breed, but there are some potential health concerns and good breeding practices make a big difference. Potential health concerns to be aware of in a German Shepherd include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia , and degenerative myelopathy. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. So, make sure you are asking about the health and genetic history of both parents. You can also ask about any health tests or clearances that have been done. As a barrel-chested breed, the German Shepherd is also at risk for bloat. While the German Shepherd is highly intelligent and highly trainable, they are generally not recommended for novice owners. If you are a novice dog owner, enroll in puppy training classes or enlist the help of a professional dog trainer; not just for your dog, but for yourself as well. Training assistance will help you grow in experience and build a strong bond between you and your German Shepherd puppy, which is essential. Also, the GSD has a thirst for training and fulfillment. They get bored easily and especially with repetition, so continued training with your German Shepherd throughout their life will be necessary. German Shepherds have a medium-to-long double coat. They will shed year-round and heavier as seasons change. Brushing a few times a week is usually sufficient; brushing daily is even better and your GSD will likely love you for it. Bathing is occasional on an as-needed basis. Ear checks weekly with careful cleanings as needed can help prevent ear infections. German Shepherds are high-energy working dogs. Not only do they require a lot of daily activity, but they also are a herding breed that was made to run, guard, and observe, so they need a job to do to be happy and healthy. Daily walks plus playtime, time to run, and other activities are usually enough for a GSD, but they will likely be up for more activity if you are. With their versatility and athleticism, you can try a lot of different activities when puppies finish growing and they are cleared for higher-impact things. A fully-grown German Shepherd usually stands inches tall and weighs pounds. German Shepherds generally live for years on average. Corporal Duncan brought him back to the United States and Rin-Tin-Tin became one of the most famous dog actors in history. Featured German Shepherd Article. May not even be aware of the breed standard. Breeds to any convenient dog. Strives towards the ideal. Often helps to define it. Does not need to promote establishment; sells to brokers, pet shops, etc. Often rescues only to attain more stock. Rarely attends shows or trials. Shows and trials to objectively test breeding stock. Often judges, provides seminars, writes articles, and willingly mentors serious Hobby Breeders. Knowledge Often pretends to know some. May share false or incomplete information. Studies continuously. Impacts the breed for many decades with knowledge of dogs over many generations. All pups sold have full breeding rights. Yes, and diligently follows up on progeny. Keeps up with health and temperament issues affecting the breeding and provides in-depth guarantees No need to; mostly supplies brokers and pet shops. Meets minimum standards as required by state law. May refuse to acknowledge most problems. Maintains a solid support system — accepts full responsibility for every puppy produced. Performs health testing for all breeding stock for genetic diseases affecting the particular breed. No interest, may offer papers as proof of quality. Papers alone are not proof of quality. No interest. May provide undocumented paperwork for appearances sake. Is unfamiliar with health testing usually statements of good health are stated to impress consumers. Intensive testing always a priority. Often initiates club sponsored seminars and clinics. Maintains records on all dogs in gene pool including progeny. Often supplies brokers and pet shops, records unavailable. Dogs and puppies are often auctioned off in lots, records unavailable. Focuses mostly on current dogs, no records or knowledge of genes. Attempts to continuously track every puppy produced. Bases entire breeding program on extensive gene pool data. Clean environment always maintained Minimum standards vary greatly in cleanliness. Minimum standards maintained for state inspections. Conditions may vary greatly depending on available income, usually makeshift accommodations. Clean, healthy and mentally stimulating environment. Expected longevity with any particular breed Will continue as long as the sales are coming. Depends on popularity of specific breeds. Unrealistic expectations — easily disillusioned. On a mission-plans to stay for the long haul. Health guarantee provided No, it cuts into profits. No health guarantee beyond proof of first set of vaccines, if that. Not qualified to give advice if a problem arises. Offers written guarantee and is available to answer questions to new owners. Good knowledge of history in dogs. Extensive knowledge of health history, offers replacements to owners of genetically affected dogs. Ability to meet the parents of the litter If available, may be in poor physical condition. If available, dogs are not used to contact with people. May or may not be well loved and cared for companions, often unwilling to show entire litter or parents to buyer. Shows friendly mother and entire litter in clean environment; stud dog too, if in residence. Helps buyer choose appropriate puppy. Can explain how breeding was planned to emphasize specific qualities and can speak at length about how puppies compare. What you can expect after purchase Nothing, may not be able to contact at all. No concern for dog after sale is final. Available for questions, and wants to keep in touch. Will take back dog or puppy at any time. After purchase will help with training and grooming, available for all questions and knows the answers. Price Priced according to market, but is marked up from original source for profit. Mid-range to move puppies quickly. High end of mid-range. Price will not reflect all that is invested. Use only physically sound, mature dogs of stable temperament for breeding. These characteristics are rarely, if ever, determined before the age of two for females. Continue to educate themselves regarding genetic diseases pertinent to the breed including, hip and elbow dysplasia. Documentation of hip and elbow screenings should be available to prospective puppy buyers. Apply the same high standards to outside bitches sent to their stud dogs as they apply to their own breeding stock. Temperament testing of a litter before puppies are offered for sale is encouraged. Take appropriate steps to have each puppy examined by a licensed veterinarian for general health prior to placement. Each puppy should be vaccinated and de-wormed by a veterinarian. Endeavor to gain personal knowledge of the temperament and health of every dog they breed, or to which they breed, in order to gather information on which to base future breeding decisions. They share this information fully and honestly with other breeders and with prospective buyers. Sell breeding prospects to knowledgeable, ethical and experienced persons or are willing to help educate and guide novices. Do not engage in misleading or untrue advertising and do not use GSDCA membership as a marketing tool. Do not sell, supply, donate or surrender any dog for which they are responsible to a pet shop, catalogue house, wholesale dealer in dogs, Humane Society or to a laboratory. They should have reasonable assurance that each individual receiving a dog will provide a home with appropriate shelter, restraint, control and responsible care. Encourage puppy buyers to go to puppy obedience classes to help their puppies to become better canine good citizens. The achievement of a Canine Good Citizen certificate should be encouraged. Since homeowners insurance and local laws vary greatly, a refusal to let you visit the kennels may not, in and of itself, be a bad sign. You should ask for and receive a satisfactory explanation. The puppies are not social or look sickly. How to read those ads. A few more things to look out for. Anyone can buy a puppy from a champion, but it does not mean that they have any other interest in the breed but to bank on the name and make money. Having a Champion in a pedigree is like having a billionaire relative. AKC registration does not guarantee quality. AKC papers are much like the title of a car; papers are issued to the junked Chevy on blocks in your yard just as easily as they are on a brand new, shiny Jaguar. AKC does not control breeding, approve litters, or guarantee temperaments. AKC Registration is automatic if you buy from a reputable breeder — they will provide all necessary paperwork when you buy a puppy. There are several groups that are registering dogs, even mixed breeds, for a fee. This registration means nothing, and is of no value to you. Are there too many defects for the animal to be bred? Shop with care. Rarely will a good breeder have the luck to own both dogs for the perfect litter. There are some good and very reasonable reasons to have both parents on site. However, you need to ask the right questions and understand why this is true. They might be, they might not. Are they too big to be cute anymore? Need more money? Is there a problem? Usually because there are more on the way. Be very wary of this one. Will a Breeder Ask Me Questions? Conscientious breeders want the best available home for their puppies. This determines the amount of time you will have available for your new addition. There are very important items that should be supplied by the breeder. Breeders will typically give you the following items: A signed pedigree A current Health Record; including de-wormings and vaccinations. American Kennel Club registration papers or application Sales contract. The type of contract varies and must be mutually agreeable to the breeder and buyer. Much depends on what you expect from the puppy show, pet, or performance. Feeding schedule including the type and amount of food. Copy of OFA certification of sire and dam, if available.

Breeders VS. The sad truth is that many pet store purchased pups actually come from puppy mills. Basically, there is zero authenticity with pet stores. When it comes to adopting any animal from a pet store, there is an increased risk of unforeseen health or genetic problems. You also cultivate a life-long relationship with the breeder, meaning support is available to you anytime you may need it. With My Golden Retriever Puppies , you have the option to come and visit both the puppy and the breeder in person! Golden Retrievers are an adaptable breed, meaning they are better at adapting to seasonal changes and various types of climate than certain other breeds. Goldens sport a double-coat, which ensures that these sweet pups are able to tolerate slightly colder temperatures than their friends from other breeds. Your pup deserves better than that, which is why here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we ensure high-quality care is taken of your pet at all times. We even have all types of golden retrievers for sale! At My Golden Retriever Puppies, we pride ourselves on our golden retriever price being fair and affordable for high quality puppies. Location Information for Dallas Customers Our home office is located in Ohio, but we understand that long-distance travel can be inconvenient. If you prefer to meet a breeder in person, they may be able to offer private visits at their home. Of course! Here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we value family and authenticity, which is why we always guarantee our pups through our 2-year genetic health guarantee. Like adopting a Golden Retriever from a pet store, there is an increased risk when adopting a pup from a rescue center or shelter as well. For example, pups purchased through a shelter or rescue center are far less likely to come with the kinds of health guarantees and reassurances that a breeder can provide. What type of Golden Retrievers are sold in Dallas? We have some good news! Ready to make your Golden Retriever dreams come true? Take a look at our convenient list of available puppies. How do I know which breeders to trust in Dallas? Our independent network of trusted breeders have already been pre-screened and verified, so that you can focus on what really matters: choosing your dream puppy. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Questions about Golden Retriever puppies for sale in Dallas Fortworth? We have answers. Give me an overview of Golden Retriever puppies for sale in Dallas Fortworth. Although our matchmaking service is free, the individual price of a Dallas Golden Retriever is set by the breeder. As an example, Golden Retriever Puppies for sale Dallas and Golden Retriever puppies for sale Fort Worth Texas, can be the same even though they are in different areas. Price is generally determined by breeder expertise, coloring, temperament, physical traits, and other factors. We can help you find a Golden Retriever for sale Dallas or our broader network taking your price range into account. Do you have Golden Retriever puppies in Fort Worth near me? You bet! Our extensive network of breeders and companies includes multiple partners in the greater Texas area. We pride ourselves on having a large selection of local and national breeders and companies to choose from! Of course! The breeders and companies that we work with are always happy to have you come meet a pup personally if you happen to match with the perfect local breeder. If you match with Golden Retriever puppies Dallas Fort Worth area and would like to go meet or pick-up your new puppy, you are easily able to do that. How is Uptown Puppies different from other companies? Uptown Puppies is not simply one breeder or pet store only interested in making the sale, we are focused on making the right match. By actually taking the time to get to know our customers and then providing access and matching with our vetted national network of breeders and companies, we are able to provide the best puppy adoption experience. Are there any purebred Golden Retriever puppies Dallas Texas right now? You can trust that the breeders and companies that you are matched with through Uptown Puppies will be able to quickly provide options for your perfect pup based on your specified requirements and lifestyle. Whether you are looking for a Dallas Golden Retriever rescue or a purebred show dog, we will get to know all of your preferences before making a match. How does the MatchMaker process work? Our MatchMaker process is a quick and efficient way of pairing together the best owners with the best breeders and businesses out there! We have identified the most important factors to consider when adopting and ensure to understand your lifestyle and needs and then match you with the appropriate breeder or company to make your adoption dreams come true. Your Golden Retriever Dallas is waiting! Is Uptown Puppies trustworthy?

How does it feel to be a new puppy parent? You must be chuffed. Take a look at these first few articles. All the ingredients you need for a happy home. But for now, beside your bed is the best place for your puppy to sleep — it will help them feel safe. Puppies like their crates rather cave-like; we suggest covering it with a blanket to block out light, but keep the front open so that they can see outwards. Make sure to make it snug inside with something like a vet bed or a blanket, or why not take it up a notch with a heat pad or hot water bottle to recreate the feeling of their mother. Nothing feels more comforting than that. Before you head to bed, take your puppy out for one last round of loo-going. Set your bedtime at a later time too — midnight sounds about right. Come back calmly, and place your puppy in the crate and turn out the light. Stuff you should know about Sleep Training your Labrador Your puppy will wake up several times in the night and will need the bathroom at least once! Be prepared for not-so-deep sleeps and tired mornings — just for the first few weeks. Having them sleep next to you is only temporary. Consistency is key! As for you, full nights of sleep will start getting closer and closer. Alone Training How can I teach my Labrador puppy to be ok on their own? Start by feeding your puppy in their crate during meal times. If they seem worried by you leaving, stay in view, and just pop right outside their confinement area. Keep it short and sweet: No need to stay away for long, 60 seconds tops will do for now. Repeat: Do this at least once a day to make progress go steady and smoothly. Socialization Exercises To Do this week Letting your Labrador puppy explore the yard Besides the gnomes and questionable yard furniture you may have, letting your puppy explore your own yard is a great and safe way to start showing them the sounds, lights and wonders of the outside world. Exploring different surfaces exercise Make sure that the surfaces you use are safe — nothing too crazy just yet. Gather surfaces such as An oven tray with a small layer of water A piece of astro turf A carpet tile A large piece of tin foil, cardboard or something crinkly PRO TIP: Set up for this exercise in the room your puppy spends most of their time in — it will help them to feel safe and confident. Pop the surfaces out safely on the floor and allow your puppy to investigate them. Nobody has ever enjoyed walking on those. Remember to be patient! Lucky for you — teaching them their name is easy peasy. Say their name in a happy jolly tone and reward with a treat. Repeat five times, 5 and take a break. Practice this 2 or 3 times a day so they get the hang of it. Teach your puppy to sit Teaching your puppy how to sit is a popular one. The first two are far more common though. Keep using this word when they do the right thing, and then follow it up with a food reward. In puppy logic, stinky means yummy. How to do it Start at home; where there are no distractions. Just make sure to shut off Gogglebox in the background. Recall — How to teach our Labrador puppy to come back when called Your puppy already knows their name at this point, so this should be a walk in the park. How to do it Treats and a cheerful voice will be what works here. Do these exercises before meal times so your puppy is more motivated. Practice this 5 times a day and in 3 different places in your house and yard to get them used to coming to you in all settings. How to do it Show your puppy that you have their favorite toy, and start to get them excited about it. When they show interest, throw it a little bit away from you. They will likely follow it and pick it up. If they do, encourage them back to you with your voice, so remember to sound happy! Swap the toy for a treat or another toy and do the process again. Repeat this about 5 times. Instead create more distance and excitement sounds to get them to come to you — spaniels like to show off, so they will likely want to parade what they have! Always swap the toy for something when they have it, this could be a treat or another toy. Resource guarding occurs when we force puppies to give up items or snatch things out of their mouths. For breeds like Labradors who are designed to want to hold things in their mouths, this is pretty important! Resource guarding is when a dog protects a resource from being taken by someone else — dog or human. For some reason, there is a solid list of things puppies find irresistible: Socks. Are Lab puppies trainable too? They include intelligence, temperament, and genetic traits. As a rule, dogs that are highly motivated are also the easiest to train. Labradors are highly motivated by two things. But even more than that, they are are incredibly motivated by the promise of a tasty treat or two. One study actually found a gene alteration in Labs that gives them greater food motivation. This could explain why Labs have a reputation for always being hungry. Their origins can be traced back to the cross-breeding of working dogs in the s. From these modest roots, the ever-devoted and hard-working St. Life on Newfoundland revolved around fishing, and these able-bodied dogs were well-suited to the water. Working together in a cooperative way in this harsh climate forged a close bond between these reliable working dogs and their human companions. A study of Labrador Retrievers found that the working status of the breed impacted their trainability. The Labrador Retriever possesses a solid body and alert senses. This, combined with an innate work ethic, genial nature, and intelligent temperament, makes him an ideal candidate for a wide variety of service jobs. Search and rescue, detection, disabled-assistance, and therapy work are service areas that the Lab excels in. The fact that Labs have been found to be among the least aggressive breeds toward humans and other dogs also makes them suitable for these roles. However, intelligence alone does not necessarily denote trainability. There are breeds who are intelligent, but stubborn and less willing to learn. This natural obedience makes them not only trainable, but loyal and dependable. Are Lab Puppies Easy to Train? Puppy socialization and training is important in determining their future behavior. Labs are energetic dogs who grow quickly. The bigger they get the harder it is to control them. Puppies as young as 8 weeks old can begin a training routine. Coming when called, sitting, staying, and walking on a lead without pulling, are important skills, especially for a large dog. As their name suggests, the Labrador Retriever was bred to retrieve prey. Today the breed still retains the instinct to chase objects and bring them back to you. So be prepared for many rousing games of fetch. Training methods have changed over the last few years and positive techniques have become increasingly popular. Rewards are a key element when training a Lab. The use of treats and praise to reinforce proper behavior is one of the best ways to get them to respond the way you want. This type of training is referred to as positive reinforcement training. When Are Labs Hard to Train? No puppy understands how to behave in the human world without being shown. This loving breed is very social and loves to be around people. If they are kept isolated from companionship, they are quite likely to develop behavior problems that make them harder to train. There are different ways to train your Labrador Retriever. This endearing, active dog only wants to receive as much love as he can give. Has your Lab impressed you with their good manners and how quickly they pick up commands? Is there anything you credit with their success most of all? Give your dog some praise, share what works for you, or ask for the support of our other readers down in the comments box. Their specific disposition not only makes them highly trainable — it also makes them excellent service and all-around work dogs. Begin early, use positive reinforcement, train in short sessions, and attend a puppy class or two. Are Labrador Retrievers Easy to Train? Many professional dog trainers and Labrador Retriever owners would argue that high intelligence and trainability go hand-in-hand, since they can learn more commands and tricks quicker and more accurately than other breeds. Male Lab Puppy vs. There are stark differences between the ways males and females tend to behave in the animal world. Although both male and female Labs are excellent companions, females mature faster than males and may be easier to train. They just might require a bit more attention, practice, and patience. Helping Your Labrador Train Well You already know that Labs are one of the most intelligent and trainable breeds, but there are instances in which they may be pretty challenging to train. Ultimately, this comes down to the way owners socialize and exercise their Labs: Labrador Retrievers are a very energetic breed. It could even develop into behavior problems that may be difficult to correct later down the line. This is when he learns the fastest, when he most readily masters new tasks and when he adapts most readily to new environments. The must-know basics are loose leash walking, basic commands, and crate training. You can begin as early as 8 weeks and see results shortly after. Luckily, these dogs are more than willing to learn from you. Start early, use positive reinforcement, train in short sessions, and consider signing your labrador retriever up for socialization classes when your dog has all of the core vaccines. Labrador Training Tip 1: Start Early The best advice that any owner or breeder can give new owners is to start early. Research shows that early training reaps tons of benefits, such as: Alleviating fear and aggression while in a new environment Developing a more profound and stronger bond with their owners By six months of age, almost all behavior problems are set in place. Therefore, early training can avoid issues and bad habits before they start or become more challenging to work with. Labrador Training Tip 2: Use Positive Reinforcement There are different training methods, the most common being positive reinforcement, clicker training, electronic training, and alpha dog training. Research shows that dogs trained using exclusively positive reinforcement methods have a more secure attachment to their owners. Florence Gaunet , the leader of the study that observed positive versus negative reinforcement training in dogs. Image Source Clicker training practices positive reinforcement with the help of sound: When a dog does a wanted behavior, the clicker clicks immediately following the action. Clicker training is an especially helpful tactic because it shows the puppy the desired behavior. However, the puppy needs to associate the clicking sound with a reward. This tactic can sometimes be challenging to try as a novice trainer, so many owners opt for puppy training classes where they can receive some guidance. Yet, this particular method is frequently used in service dog training sessions. Labrador Training Tip 3: Keep Training Sessions Short But Frequent Puppies are like toddlers: Their ability to concentrate is naturally short, requiring stimulation if you want to hold their attention. Otherwise, they may become distracted, get bored, and stop paying attention. Most dogs have an attention span of about 15 minutes before they get bored, tired, and begin resisting commands, so a good rule of thumb is to aim for at least 15 minutes of training every day in five-minute increments. Incredibly distracted puppies may need shorter sessions, like two to three minutes, a few extra times a day. Quick Tip: Train in every room of your house so that your puppy recognizes cues in different places. Veterinary behaviorist Dr. Ian Dunbar recommends that your puppy meet at least people of different appearances, backgrounds, and abilities during his first month at home or at least three months. One of the best ways to do that is by attending socialization classes. Plus, class participation leads to a well-rounded, happy, and willing puppy which directly translates to ease of training. Simply put, certain traits are more likely to be shared by genetically-similar breeds. Therefore, they should all be registered with the American Kennel Club, offer full-replacement guarantees, conduct ethical breeding practices, interview prospective owners , and allow on-site tours and meet-and-greets with the puppies and their parents. Conclusion Labrador Retrievers are some of the smartest and easiest dogs to train, partly due to their genetics and partly due to the way they are raised. If you want a dog that is easy to train, start training your pup early and use positive reinforcement techniques like treats or clickers with short training sessions. Learn more about what we do at Snowy Pines, or come visit our Labrador puppies at our acre property nestled in the Ozark Mountains. Share on. Print Early obedience first step to better hunting dog Labrador puppies start out sweet and innocent. All you want to do is cuddle up with your pup and love them! And you should! But rest assured the innocence will not last. As your pup gains confidence and courage, they will begin to test you in many ways. That is why you must obedience train your Labrador puppy. Early obedience training is key to establishing borders and boundaries that will help your puppy grow, learn, and adjust with a good attitude. There is no shortcut to doing this, just use the name often when you talk to your puppy. Over time, the pup will start to respond to the name. Socialization, while not technically obedience training, is the single most important thing you can teach your puppy during the first few months of life. If you are not sure how to do this, refer to this post. Tools needed to obedience train Labrador puppy You will need a few tools to teach your puppy obedience. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Collar — You should purchase a size appropriate collar for your new puppy. You may have to buy new ones as your dog grows, but it is important for your puppy to get used to wearing a collar early on. A simple nylon adjustable collar works great. Chain collar — If your puppy is more than a few months old, a chain or prong collar is extremely helpful in teaching obedience, but they must be used correctly. For more information on how to put a chain collar on your dog correctly refer to this video. A longer lead, called a check cord, is also useful for teaching HERE and retrieving. You can learn more about that here. Heeling stick optional — While optional, a heeling stick can be especially helpful in teaching basic obedience. Treats — Treats are good for teaching very young puppies. I use treats for pups under 12 weeks of age, but treats should be discontinued rather quickly. When to start basic puppy obedience training Obedience training can and should start within the first couple weeks of having your puppy home. Young puppies are ready and willing to learn and teaching obedience to a young puppy is much easier than teaching it to an older dog. How long should obedience sessions be? Most labs do not enjoy obedience training. For this reason, we aim to keep obedience sessions short, especially if your dog is under 4-months of age. Five to ten minutes of obedience a day can work wonders. Especially if you are consistent. Using rewards or praise to teach obedience Many people like to use treats or rewards for obedience training. And this can work, especially with very young dogs. But for hunting dogs, over the long-term treats can become a problem. We do not want our dogs, or the dogs we train to be obedient only because they are getting a food reward. We want them to be obedient because they understand their place in the family and respect the owners. To get these lasting results, we use praise words and petting and a reward that retrievers live for — retrieves! Well-timed praise is a particularly important part of dog training. A message that it is okay to ignore me the first 9 times! This simply means that after a few minutes of formal obedience training, we release the dog with an OKAY command and that means they can run around and be a dog. We then throw a bumper or plug a for the dog to retriever. We do this a few times with a lot of excitement and allow the dog to retrieve the bumper. For retriever breeds, this is often more effective than a food reward. Be careful that you are not letting your puppy get into bad habits with retrieving. For instance, if your puppy often goes out to retrieve the bumper but then runs away with it, or picks it up and drops it, do not continue doing retrieves. While retrieving is a reward for many Labs, it is not an excuse to engage in behaviors that are not going to be acceptable in the field. If you want to learn more about how to properly teach your Lab to retrieve, check out How can I teach my retriever puppy to fetch? Introduction to leash and nylon collar The very first step for any puppy obedience is to introduce your puppy to a regular collar and leash. This should be done in two separate steps, first the collar and then the leash. Introduce the collar by putting a nylon type collar on your puppy. This is normal and you should not react to it. Introducing the leash is a little different. We like to do this outside. After a few sessions of this introduction, you can start holding the leash by the end and walking with the puppy. When the puppy tries to run or walk away, hold tight to the leash, and just let the puppy get used to the resistance. Some puppies have a hard time with this and will growl or whine and whip themselves around at the pressure, but most will not. Remain calm and after a few sessions the puppy should get used to the resistance of the leash. Do not allow the puppy to pull you around. That will make for some bad behaviors that you will need to correct later. If you cannot control your puppy with just a regular collar and leash, you may need to move to a chain or prong collar to keep control. What commands to teach Lab puppy There are only four basic obedience commands that you need to teach your young puppy. Remember when it comes to commands, less is more. OKAY — this is a release command, basically tells your dog were done training, go be a dog. As your puppy grows and learns more, there are some other commands that may be needed, but for puppies I like to start with just the four above. Dog training requires consistency Before you start with obedience training, I want to make a note about the importance of consistency. Obedience training only works if you are consistent. This means that when you say a command, you expect the puppy to perform the command, and are willing to take steps to make the puppy perform the command. If you do not remain consistent in this expectation, you will confuse your dog and get poor results from your training. You and your family must be consistent! How to start obedience training Lab puppy The first command you want to start teaching your puppy is SIT. This is quite easy to teach with a small puppy but gets a little tougher as they get bigger. Then release the puppy with the OKAY command. Repeat this process several times, then stop. If your puppy is weeks old, you can repeat this training several times a day for only a couple minutes at a time. This will be a two-person job for a little while. The other person will put the food down a few feet from the puppy. Then release the puppy to eat saying OKAY. As the pup learns and understands the command better, you will no longer need a second person to hold the puppy. You must be a little careful here because young puppies do not have great bladder control and making them wait, even a few seconds, can mean the difference between an accident and them doing their business outside. But this is a great way to teach impulse control and manners to your puppy. I do not want to have to fight for a position by the door. You can usually start working on this within a week or two of teaching SIT. A great way to teach this command to young puppies is to use two people and sit in a long hallway, one at each end. Take turns calling your puppy with a HERE command. A toy or treat can often help the process. Let your puppy run around a bit but hold onto the end of the cord. Occasionally, call you puppy with a HERE command. It can be helpful at first to crouch down to encourage the puppy to run towards you. Then release the puppy with an OKAY command. Do this a few more times and repeat daily until the puppy is coming to you without you needing to pull the cord. It is also the command most of our clients struggle with the most. Mostly because they are using the wrong tool for the job. For heeling work, it is important that you work with a chain or prong collar. This will give you more control and stop the pulling and surging that many people struggle with. Using a chain or prong collar and a six-foot leash, start walking your puppy at your side. If your puppy is young, be sure to use a puppy chain collar which is smaller than chain collars for adult dogs. And make sure that you are putting it on correctly! An alternate tool to a chain collar and leash is the Wonder or Command Lead. These work great for teaching HEEL. As you start walking use gently tugs on the chain collar with the command HERE to keep your puppy at your side. If your puppy surges or pulls ahead, simply make a degree turn and start walking the other direction giving a sharp, upward tug on the chain collar and saying HEEL several times until the dog is back in a heeling position. Many of our clients have told us they never left their driveway the first few days! But if you are patient and consistent, your dog will quickly learn that if they want to go for a walk, they need to stay at your side. If you want to learn and progress in more obedience work, check out these obedience drills for retrievers. Final thoughts on how to teach your lab puppy obedience Teaching your puppy obedience may take a lot of patience, time and work, but it is such an important thing to do. You will never regret the time! A well-mannered dog is such a joy to be around both in the home and in the field. How to obedience train Labrador puppy. Labrador Retriever pups are working dogs. This means they live to please you for a treat. The more you engage them with different puppy training behaviors the happier they will be. Of course, Labs will be Labs, and this means that dogs do dog things unless they are trained to follow your expectations. Potty training your puppy is just the beginning of you making clear expectations for your Lab. Puppy training from long leash training to potty training, to not nipping is discussed in greater detail along with clear, easy to follow videos at www. But we will give you an expert training tip summary below. For this reason, you need to become an expert on puppy training. Contact us for a discount on the Puppy Trained Right positive reinforcement training program. Expose your puppy to as many different people and situations possible. Teach dog to dog manners when required. Use Positive Reinforcement. Allow for Play with Other Puppies. Play with other Lab Puppies not only allows your pup to get some exercise it is a form of puppy socialization. Bond with your Puppy. Once a strong bond is formed your Lab Puppy will want to please you even more. Potty Train Right Away. Learn how Dogs Learn. Training a Lab puppy is easy if you understand how to go about it. Give your Lab Puppy Play time to Explore. Labs need this as part of their natural development. Spend more time with your puppy when young. This is the time when your expectations should be clearly outlined and can decrease as she gets older. Begin Training day 1. This happens weather or not you intend it to. Every action and reaction is something your puppy uses to form new habits. So ignoring them jumping up as an 8 week old puppy is training them to jump up and will be much more difficult to un-train once they are 70 lbs. Relax and make learning fun. Your pup needs you happy and enjoying yourself! Use Positive Training Methods because they work. This means reward what you desire. Ensure most Experiences are Positive. Imagine a training session of No, No, No, No! Expose them to as Many Human Situations possible. One cause is that there was not adequate socialization with different men. Be Patient. You are building an amazing K9 personality. The window is between 8 and 20 weeks old. Make the most of it. The better your Lab is socialized the happier they will be. Anxiety in dogs comes from many things. The more things your dog is comfortable with the less chance for anxiety and therefore the happier they are. Prepare yourself, your family and your home before your puppy comes home. It is too late once you meet your puppy as simply interacting with her is training. Allow for Safe Experiences both in the home and outside. Seek professional trainers to help guide you when faced with a problem. Be consistent. Clear expectations are easiest to learn. Focus on Guiding not controlling. Best Start Training or Training Classes are beneficial for both you and your puppy. Expect Success. We tend to move in the direction we believe we will travel. Reward the Behaviors you want to see even something as simple as 4 paws on the ground if you are trying to train your Lab not to jump up on you. Become Well informed. You are teaching a skill like reading that takes clear expectations and builds upon last session. Lab Puppies need constant supervision either human, a crate, a fenced area or a baby gate across a doorway. Encourage a soft mouth. Keep your training up or it will be forgotten. Begin Walking on a Loose Leash Right away. This is always easier for your Lab when they are 12 lbs not 70lbs. Change direction before the leash tightens so they are followers not leaders. This is much easier to train before it happens than correct. Allow alone time for your Lab. Know when to end a training session. End training before your puppy quits. Make time for a few shorter training Sessions. Three fifteen minute sessions are better than one 45 min one. Teach your Lab to respond to their name. Teach your Labrador basic obedience before tricks-come, sit, stay, down, leave it. Have all humans learn the commands and be consistent. Ignore undesirable behaviors. Ignoring includes not saying no, bad dog, touching your dog or making eye contact. Find rewards that your Retriever loves and use them when you have breakthrough training moments. Adjust your expectations as your Lab puppy matures, the older more experienced the higher the expectation. Set Realistic Expectations. Minimize distractions when you begin training. Be aware of your Body Language, Labradors pick up cues from you. Be aware of your leash tension. A tight leash says anxiety from the handler. Know when to get Help .Have fun! Understand that Labs do Lab things. Make them work for food and treats. Exercise your Retriever properly for both intensity and duration. Learn some exercise games Labs love. Give lots of repetition. Stop before they get bored. Establish a Pattern by Praising. Redirect undesired behavior. Accept partial actions at first and gradually increase your expectations. When treats end Verbal treats and chin scratches rule. They will know. Enjoy your well balanced purebred Lab puppy for many years. Purebred Lab Retrievers, are they easier to train? The answer to that is definitely maybe! Not all purebreds are bred for intelligence. For example, if a Labrador Retriever breeder chooses to breed their dogs for a certain look then they may overlook intelligence as one of the important characteristics in order to get a specific Lab look. We however breed for intelligence, health and temperament. So in our case, yes, our Purebred Lab Puppies are easier to train than many because we choose the parents and their puppies specifically for their smarts! Print Raising a retriever puppy like the pros Your Labrador puppy can seem small and fragile during those first few weeks home from the breeder. Labrador puppies will learn quickly about acceptable and unacceptable behavior those first few weeks, if you, the owner, are willing to set and enforce boundaries. Here is the training you should be working on with your week-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post three of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Training and socialization for week-old Labrador puppy — week three home Your week-old puppy has been with your family for approximately 3 weeks now. This week you should start noticing some bigger changes with your puppy. Here are some of the changes I notice with Bubba. First, she is growing fast! Bubba is almost ready for a new collar already. I have loosened her current collar twice, and there is no more room to expand it. She is also learning a lot. Bubba is also becoming more personable. She likes and has more interest in people now and wants to be petted and scratched more often. Training equipment for Lab puppy We added a couple new training tools this week. But a thicker check cord will also work. We use this check cord for longer outside marks and assistant-marks which I will discuss more in a bit. Puppy sized canvas or light-weight plastic bumpers In week two, we introduced formal retrieving in a hallway in the house. In week three, we move outside with retrieving and introduce assistant throws, so it is helpful to have a few more bumpers. Puppy training that will continue Much of the training I have been working on for the past two weeks with Bubba will continue into this week and beyond. Dog training is not something that has a definitive end-date. For instance, you teach your puppy to SIT and then you must work and practice that command daily or weekly, often for months before the response to the command is solid. But even once the response is solid, you cannot completely stop training. If you stop training, even an older dog, the dog can lose the previous training. So, realize that you are never done working with your dog, especially on obedience training. Some areas that we will continue training Bubba on are: Crate training Bubba is doing great at crate training. She rarely makes any noise while in her crate and settles down quickly after being put into her crate. In the upcoming weeks, we will work towards getting Bubba to enter her crate on command. Looking for more information on crate training? Housebreaking Housebreaking Bubba is going well. We have caught her in a few accidents, but she already seems to understand that she is not supposed to go potty inside. This does not mean that she is done housebreaking. We still expect accidents and will for a few months, so we watch her carefully while she is running around in the house. We also praise her for behaviors like going to the door and tapping the door or whining at the door. These behaviors are rewarded with us taking her outside to go potty. When she goes potty outside, we praise her and then take her right back in. We want her to start understanding that these cue behaviors will get her out to go potty and that is all. Looking for more information on housebreaking? But we will also add a few new ones. We will use this while teaching our puppy the SIT command. It also will be used going forward, anytime we are done working on structured obedience work. We will release the dog from formal work with the OKAY command. But we also use it to mean go to a certain place, such as on a mat or stand. Or, when we want her to go into her crate or kennel. This is an associative command, meaning the puppy will learn the command through our repetition of the word as we tie it to a behavior. But over time, she will make the association and will perform it on her own. This is very important especially if you ever plan on doing more advanced training with your retriever. You will use whatever your dogs name is. A few commands that we will continue to work on this week We will continue to work on obedience commands this week and in the weeks to come. Each week we will expect a little more and better compliance and performance to the command. She is sitting when I put the leash and chain collar on her and when I am taking it off. This week we also added SIT before eating. We only make her SIT for a few seconds; we are working on control. She does not SIT on her own yet, but she will be doing that within a week or so I would guess. Right now, I grab her collar and say SIT. In week three, I have a slightly higher expectation. On walks, I make her walk right beside me for a minute or two using the HEEL command before releasing her and letting her run back and forth a bit. This tells me that she understands the command. Then release her. If every time your puppy comes to you, you put her away or take something away from her, soon your puppy will not want to come to you. You must work hard to make coming to you a good experience for your puppy. So, call her, praise her when she comes and release. Remember: Never use a HERE command if you are not in the position of being able to enforce the command. Make every effort to socialize your puppy You should continue to take steps to socialize your week-old puppy. Anything you can think of. The more things and situations you expose your puppy to, the better your puppy will be equipped to adjust and learn in the future. Learn more about socialization. Hand throws with a puppy bumper you are throwing out a bumper done outside will carry a lot more distraction than retrieves in a hallway. Just pick up the bumper and try again tomorrow. When retrieving outside, make sure you have a long foot rope attached to your puppy. Never try to do retrieves outside without a rope. You will have problems and encourage bad behaviors. You must have a way to get the puppy to come back to you, otherwise you should not be doing retrieves outside. Once your puppy is doing well retrieving outside, you are ready to introduce assistant marks. Introduction to assistant marks The most important thing we worked on with Bubba this week is assistant marks. Assistant marks are retrieves where someone else is throwing the bumper, not you. This teaches your puppy to watch out in the field for a mark. It is very rare that a duck will come from behind you, fly over your head and you shoot it. The ducks and pheasants will be falling in front of you, so the dog must learn to look out and watch for the mark. We start assistant marks on very short grass with white plugs so that the puppy can clearly see the item on the ground. We hold the puppy in a SIT position facing a thrower who is about 20 feet from you. When your puppy picks up the bumper, immediately start calling her back to you. Remember, you should have the foot check cord on her so you can pull the puppy in if needed. Then, take the bumper from her, throw it behind you, make your puppy sit facing the thrower again and repeat. Only do retrieves and then call it a day. Soon your puppy will learn this game and love it. They will start facing the thrower on their own and sitting and waiting for a mark. Final thoughts on training for your week-old Labrador puppy week-old puppies are so eager to learn, so be sure and take advantage of this enthusiasm to teach new concepts and enforce previous ones. Continue to teach your puppy to handle more and more pressure and correction while maintaining a good attitude. Lastly, assistant marks are a big deal. Once a dog learns this part of the game, you can work to increase the distance and complexity of the marks. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving.

Smart, loyal, confident, courageous, and steady; a true dog lover's dog. Monthly baths and brushing with a Fuminator undercoat brush keeps the shedding under control. Energy Level: Very Active; These big guys were born to work; they require regular mental and physical exercise, along with as much playtime as possible. Exercise and Nutrition Because they are so high energy, German Shepherds tend to stay in good weight. Younger dogs will seem thin, but will fill out and grow more muscular as they mature at months. Feed a low-grain balanced diet as recommended by your veterinarian, and address the calories and exercise before weight becomes an issue. Generally considered dogdom's finest all-purpose workers, GSDs are large, agile, muscular dogs of noble spirit and high intelligence. For such deep-chested, solid dogs, they move quickly with great nimbleness afoot. The GSD's natural gait is a free-and-easy trot, but when duty calls they can turn it up a notch or two and reach great speeds. Standing as high as 26 inches at the shoulder and built like a brick doghouse, the GSD when viewed in outline presents a picture of smooth, graceful curves rather than angles. What is the German Shepherd Dog Like? The German Shepherd is the world's leading breed for police guard and military work as well as loving family loyal companion dog. They originated in Germany in the late 's and quickly became one of the most popular breeds of all dogs. Today German Shepherds consistently hold a spot in top five of the AKC breed popularity list, and are currently number 3. There are many reasons why GSDs stand in the front rank of canine royalty, but breed experts say their dog's most important attribute is character: loyalty, courage, confidence, the ability to learn and retain commands for an amazing number of specialized jobs, and the willingness to put their life on the line in defense of loved ones. Well-bred GSDs of proper training and socialization will be gentle family pets and steadfast guardians eternally devoted to their human flock. .Schaeffer Haus GSD. Messages are NOT coming through to my email account right now. As a Graduated Vet tech, I have seen the misery of a poorly bred dog. Reviews: I can honestly say this is one of the best dog breeders I have ever talked to before. Billie and Mr. Pete are very knowledgeable about their animals and dedicated to providing them with the best care no matter the conditions. After a ton of e-mails, visits, phone calls, etc.I finally found Ravenhill. Before I get into the quality of dogs they have, let me start by saying how much I like Billie and Peter. They are honest, respectful, kind, and willing to help. The first time I called Billie we spoke for over an hour and she gave me so much useful information. She tells you what you need to hear! We visited Ravenhill in early December. We spent a couple hours with Billie, Peter, and their German Shepherds. She had all ages to look at, my favorite being Echo who was 9 weeks at the time. All her dogs are friendly. The quality of our puppy is amazing. This pup is beautiful, smart, and has a very good temperament. We are very happy we selected.Billie is very protective of her dogs. At first we thought it was kinda rude, but if you think about it, she is just a awesome dog breeder! She likes to keep her pups safe. Me and my family are very happy with the pups we got! If you are looking for a great breeder, with great dogs! Most of us read that book back in the 70's and know how this order takes problem dogs and uses very creative ways of correcting temperament issues, either created by breeding or the people that own the dogs. They also breed German Shepherds. I have had several people over the years that HAD dogs from that order, that have bought my dogs, because our philosophy was so similar. People that breed dogs should always try to put the highest quality on the ground with their breeding, not JUST because they have papers, but because they come from well bred dogs. Honor the breed, breed true to the standard, in both confirmation, temperament and health. Don't fall into the trap of "bigger is better" or "German Shepherds are always guard dogs". These are companion dogs, with herding and protective instincts, and should always be bred for balance, both in disposition and confirmation. Titled dogs have proven their ability to be trained to the highest level, they must pass a physical screening hips and elbows before they are trained, and trained before they are bred in the kennels of working and working showline dogs with the European breeders. Some can be "reserved", some lines are more friendly, both are acceptable. Always meet the parents, and siblings and ask lots of questions about your breeders experience, expertise and time they have put into the breed. So, I pass that quality on to my buyers, who want a well bred companion dog that can be trained, or carry the instincts of devotion to people. I had both import and American lines when I started, but focus on dogs from titled import show and working lines. Pups coming from titled dogs means that the dogs behind my dogs are bred by real GSD breeders, hips and elbows are checked before they are titled, and the imports all have their 1st title before they are ever bred. These dogs are sound, intelligent and are ideal companion dogs as well as personal protection and working dogs. I am very selective about the lines I have and the temperament associated with those lines. Dogs are either OFA'd through American testing or import testing, microchipped, at least 4 wormings and shots at appropriate ages. I became involved with the breed while in Vet Tech school in .I became involved with the Jack Russell terriers in .My dogs hailed from England, the country of origin. Most of what I had at the time were the smooth working lines but later became involved in showing in UKC. Puppies from my lines are clean breeding no inbreeding but I do line breed and genetically cleared breeding pairs out of English country of origin and Australia, often referred to as country of development lines. Actually both countries were developing dogs to suit their region and vermin problem, so there are several types, and in any given litter it is good to have all 3 coats represented. Shows more variation in the gene pool. They are born in the house and only let out side after 1st shots. They are family pets, Earthdogs, Barnhunt dogs, stable dogs, agility dogs.All coats should retain a "double coat". Ideally the ears tip, but occasionally they will be small enough and light enough that an ear will prick. This is fine for pets, not acceptable in the show ring however or as Earthdogs as dirt can enter the ear canal. Tails are NOT cut short like they were many years ago but left natural or "tipped" when the dew claws are removed to ensure that they are not too long and can be damaged if the dogs are used as "Earthdogs" and go underground. Pups can be held with a non-refundable deposit transferable to another litter with approved purchase. ALL the German Shepherds are bred to be family, personal companion and protection dogs. When placing a dog, I try to match temperament 1st, sex then color. My 4 Import showline males have good "drive" as well as great functional conformation for movement and athletic ability and breeding them to my working line females, makes the pups more manageable and easy to train, and not so hyper that they are harder to handle by older adults and children alike. Once brought into the family group, outsiders will be viewed with caution until they are cued otherwise. Ironically, her dam and granddam and sire all showed in the American venue quite successfully, one grandmother showed at Westminster several years back. But at home.Easy to handle, very focused, easy to train, all of my dogs exhibit trusting loyal temperaments, adaptable to a caring, loving, home. All want to please, but are NOT unmanageable!!! Good temperament is critical for training and socialization. A shy or overly aggressive dog is never a good fit for a family and is harder to train. They have to WANT to please you and will try to earn your praise. Fear biters are a liability and overly aggressive dogs have their own agenda. And although these dogs have a good strong bite and a good prey drive for training, they are not police or military hard. Review I was appreciative of getting, thank you. My wife wanted a German Shepherd for many many years. We began looking and came upon Ravenhill Russells and German Shepherds. .Without a shadow of a doubt we felt like this was the place to get our puppy. When we went to visit the potential mother, all dogs were well taken care of and very healthy. Billie was patient with our questions and guided us along the way. Our puppy is now almost 5 months old and we couldn't be happier. We have her in training and our instructor says she is one of the best puppies he has seen. He also can't get over how beautiful and well bred she is. We are always stopped on the street by people asking where we got her and without hesitation we recommend Ravenhill Kennel. Thank you Billie for a beautiful, loving and family friendly dog. This is what it's all about. Hi Billie, Thank you for taking the time and meeting with me and Woody Tuesday. We have named our little girl Sassafrass Sadie Belle Belle as a nod to her mother. We are calling her Sadie. Sweet, loving and playful and none of the skittishness behavior in my last Russell. Our Newfie is scared to death of her! He probably remembers Maggie and how she terrorized him. Once again, thank you! Deena M. We encourage all prospective puppy owners to do their research and be prepared with questions to ask the breeder. I don't sell show dogs. But people deserve to have a quality pet as well. So my dogs are breed from some of the best and proven foundation lines proven sound and of quality generation after generation. .People often say, I'm not looking for a show dog, I get that. But I will NOT breed anything less than my standard and respect the standard of the breed. All dogs at some point had a function. NOT just to not shed,even lap dogs kept royalty safe tucked in their sleeves and hands warm.I am sure they have other attributes. Rendell Beatty.

Located on a beautiful ranch in the Texas Hill Country, we are a totally volunteer run organization committed to annually placing hundreds of dogs in their best forever homes. We at a A Doggie 4 You understand you want to do what is right for the dog that you have either found as a stray or can no longer keep. We have to be clear before proceeding, we are a volunteer run not for profit organization who is funded only by donations and adoption income. We are not able to go out to rescue a dog off the street nor we can not legally go on to private property for any reason. We are NOT the resource you need if a dog is in an emergency situation. We do not euthanize but we are limited by our space and resources. Our medical bills alone are almost equal to our income. Having said this we want to help when we can. If you have an animal you would like us to consider taking in please submit the surrender form below. Allow at least 2 business days for a response, sending multiple requests or calls for the same animal only slows the process. Submission of this form in no way guarantees we will be able to accept the dog. But you can make yours any way you want. A closer look at the Golden paper dog: And a better look at the sweet little Border Collie paper dog: Inspiration for these paper dog boxes came from paper-replika, who made some super cute printable dog paper toys a while back and shared them under a Creative Commons license. I converted their basic design to the Cricut and made my own design tweaks — a longer body my dogs have long tube bodies! Then I thought this paper toy would be even better if it were a box! So I designed a trapezoidal box that fits under the dog. So now let me show you how to make paper dog boxes! Read my full disclosure policy. I have three different dog designs — one is modeled after my border collie puppy, one is a malamute, and the other is modeled after my golden retriever dog. Feel free to change the size of these, too! Need help with the scoring lines? Check out my tutorial on Cricut Scoring, Grouping, and Attaching! Fold your head piece along the scorelines, both big folds and tab folds. Everything gets folded IN. Glue everything on the head, saving the back of the head for last. Now, glue up the paper dog body, saving the rear end for last. If you are going to put a collar on your dog, fold and glue it to the body now. Now you can stop here and just have a paper dog or paper puppy. But if you want a paper dog BOX, keep going! Take the box piece and fold it in, both big folds and tab folds. Now, glue the tabs to the sides to form the box. Here are all of the cute paper dog boxes I made! Which one would you like to adopt? You can really make a lot of different dog breeds just by using different color of paper, different styles and sizes of ears and tails, and different markings. If you made yours look like your dog, be sure to include a photo of your dog, too! Please share a photo in our Facebook group , or tag me on social media with jennifermaker. Love, Jennifer Jennifer Marx is a designer, an enthusiastic crafter, a lifelong teacher, and a proud overcomer of a variety of life's challenges. She lives a full, happy life in beautiful Ann Arbor, Michigan with her partner Greg, her teen daughter Alexa, and their two dogs, Hunter and Chloe. Knowing and understanding normal labor and delivery, as well as proper pregnancy care, can help make the process go more smoothly and help you know what is normal and when it is time to get the veterinarian involved. Knowing the exact time of conception, however, is difficult since a bitch can be receptive to the male before and after ovulation. For this reason, the time from breeding to delivery is usually somewhere between 58 to 70 days. Your veterinarian can help narrow this time frame by examining the cells of the vaginal wall. Be aware that just because your bitch bred does not mean she is pregnant. Some dogs will even show signs of pregnancy and not really be pregnant. There is a phenomenon in dogs known as false pregnancy or pseudocyesis. For confirmation of pregnancy, an examination, with ultrasound and possibly X-rays by your veterinarian, is suggested. Before breeding, make sure she is up to date on all her vaccinations. It is not recommended to vaccinate your dog during pregnancy. Also, make sure she is dewormed and tests negative for a bacteria known as Brucella. This bacteria can cause abortion in dogs and is also contagious to people. After breeding and conception, most bitches do well during the first 4 to 5 weeks of pregnancy and do not need any special treatments. Things start to change during the last trimester week 5 to 6. The babies start to rapidly develop and this results in a significant nutritional drain on the mother. At this time, you may want to consider gradually changing her diet to a growth type diet or a food specifically made for pregnant or lactating bitches. Continue this diet throughout the remainder of pregnancy and until the puppies are weaned. Vitamins or other supplements are not recommended nor needed. With a proper diet, your dog will receive the proper amount of nutrients. Excessive amounts can actually result in birth defects. Do not begin feeding your dog a higher calorie food before the last trimester. This can lead to weight gain and fat deposits. This has the potential to cause difficulty in maintaining the pregnancy and can result in problems delivering the puppies. Whelping boxes are intended to be easily accessed by the mother but escape proof for the new arrivals. You can use wood, Formica or any building material that is easy to clean. Make the box large enough for the bitch to comfortably stretch out. Make sure the sides are just low enough for the mother to step over and place the box in a warm, dry, draft-free area. If possible, try to choose a quiet and secluded area. Initially, place newspapers on the bottom of the box for easy clean up. Once all the puppies are born, place blankets or towels to provide some footing for the puppies. Be aware that you must get the bitch used to the whelping box before the birth. If not, she may make her own decision on where to have the puppies — and this may be a closet, a pile of fresh clean laundry or even in the middle of your bed! An additional suggestion is to have your dog examined by a veterinarian toward the end of pregnancy. A thorough physical exam, along with ultrasound or X-rays can help determine how many puppies you can expect. This way, you will know when she is done delivering and not just in another resting phase between pups. About 24 hours before the beginning of labor, there will be a temporary drop in the body temperature. Normal temperature is to .Twenty-four hours prior to labor, the temperature can drop to 98 to 99 F. You may notice panting, pacing, refusal of food and maybe vomiting. Nesting behavior begins. This is the time to place her in the whelping box hopefully she is already accustomed to the box. After getting settled in the whelping box, you may notice her dragging clothing or fabric to the area to form a comfortable bed. You may want to remove any clothing as whelping begins or these pieces of clothing may be permanently stained. This stage of labor typically lasts 6 to 12 hours. At the end of stage I, the cervix is completely dilated. If your dog has not started whelping within 24 hours after beginning stage I labor, veterinary assistance is recommended. Visible contractions begin. The abdomen tenses and the bitch begins straining. This action will appear similar to the bitch trying to have a bowel movement. The first puppy should be delivered within 1 to 2 hours of the onset of contractions and straining. Veterinary assistance is strongly encouraged if the first puppy is not delivered within 2 hours after the onset of contractions. After delivery of the puppy, the bitch may enter a resting phase that can last up to 4 hours. Active straining will begin again and more puppies will be delivered. If you know there are additional puppies yet to be born and the resting period is longer than 4 hours, veterinary assistance is necessary. This resting phase may not occur after each delivery. Sometimes, several puppies may be born rapidly. This is the time when the placenta, after birth, is delivered and usually occurs 5 to 15 minutes after delivery of the puppy. If multiple puppies are born rapidly, several placentas may be expelled together. After the passage of the placenta, the bitch will return to stage II labor. She may continue the resting phase or begin contracting. Throughout whelping, the bitch will fluctuate between stage II and stage III labor until all the puppies are born. It is very important to keep track of the number of placentas. There should be the same number of placentas as puppies. If a placenta is retained in the uterus, the bitch will eventually become quite ill. She should begin vigorously licking the puppy, remove him from the amniotic sac if still present and chew the umbilical cord. The bitch may even ingest the placenta. This is not necessary and, sometimes, can lead to vomiting and diarrhea. Prompt removal of the placentas can help you keep track of how many placentas she has passed. Those puppies that are born still in the sack need immediate help. If the mother does not open the sack and begin cleaning the puppy, it is up to you to help. Tear the membrane of the sack and begin cleaning and rubbing the puppy with a clean dry towel. Cleaning other puppies may be necessary if the mother is not showing much interest in her newborns. Tie off the umbilical cord about 1 inch from the belly wall using string, thread or dental floss. Cut the cord off on the other side of the tie. Clean and rub the puppy vigorously until you hear crying. Place the puppy back with the new mom and make sure she allows the puppies to nurse. Being prepared to assist and understanding newborn puppy care is essential to help the mother and her babies through these first steps of life. Yes, you could choose to use a kiddie wading pool for whelping, or you could also build a basic wooden box. Both of these will hold the pups while they are small, still dragging themselves around on their bellies, but there are so very many other things to consider in order to safely contain the bitch and her puppies, that I would be doing you a huge disfavor if I were to say that a basic box or kiddie pool were all you needed. Whelping box with puppy rails and fleece pads for bedding. Thanks to Debbie Bjerkestrand for sharing her photos with us! The best thing, will be for you to design your whelping box to fit your bitch and your available space, while designing your entire set up so that it will also to fit the growing and changing needs of the litter and dam over the next couple of months. Whelping Box Dimensions — ideally the box should be at least a foot longer than the bitch is long when measured from nose to rear. A box that is too large could mean the newborn puppies might get lost, unable to find their way to mom; and a box built to small increases the odds of the bitch lying or stepping on a wee one. Side Height — the height of the side wall is most effective when it is designed to be adjustable, so more height can be added when the pups begin to walk and climb out of the box. Laurie Ward shared this photo of her whelping box with the puppy rails clearly visible. Floor — Whether you want or need a floor in your box will depend on the floor surface where you are whelping the litter. I whelped my litters in my basement, and while these were clean, dry cement floors in newer homes, the floors were also cold to the touch depending on the season. I often added a sheet of Styrofoam insulation under the floor of the whelping box as well for added protection from cool drafts and chilling. Newspapers are cheap but be prepared to go through a ton of them so start saving up early on. These loose strips get shuffled around by the bitch and the puppies moving about, the strips will stick on top of stool and wet spots, keeping the pups and mom from lying in or crawling through any mess. The strips are lightweight so they easily move around to help keep things cleaner in the box. Towels or blankets can be used but there are definite disadvantages. Very young puppies can get trapped and lost underneath and then can easily be crushed by their mother or may suffocate if they become wrapped or rolled in the material. Unfortunately one cannot get one mat large enough for the entire box so several must be pieced together. It does need to be cut to size to fit the box, and needs a good washing to remove all the residual chemicals and to soften the nap. A good option for lining the whelping box for newborns are lambskin crate pads. These are artificial lamb-like fur pads that come in various sizes and are easily found in most dog catalogs. These pads absorb liquids to keep puppies from laying in wetness, and are easily cleaned in a clothes washer. They are thick so the puppies can cuddle in them for extra warmth and the pups get good traction when crawling to get closer to their mother. You can buy lambskin crate material in bulk from some companies so the exact dimensions of your whelping box can be matched when ordering your pads. Links following this article are included for a couple of sites who offer this material. Photo by Laurie Ward of mom and pups snuggling in the whelping box. Location, Location, Location…. Where to place the whelping box for the birth? Where to keep the whelping box as the pups get older and begin to eat solid foods and poop, and poop, and poop? Convenient and quiet — where ever you decide to whelp and raise your litter, make it in a convenient place for you to be able to monitor the bitch and the puppies. I recommend whelping puppies inside the house, and as the whelping itself can take a long time and often seems to happen at night, having a couch or lounge chair nearby for cat naps is high on my priority list! Ideally, the location should be quiet with the least amount of family activity. If you have lots of family members or small children, probably the basement, laundry room or garage is best. Bitches with newborn puppies can be very temperamental, protective and are easily disturbed. Giving the bitch a quiet and secluded place to nest with her puppies is going to simplify many things for you and for her. Temperature — you will need to be able to control the temperature of the whelping room or at the very least, the whelping box itself, as the biggest threat to newborn puppies is chilling. A draft free room, away from frequently opened doors and windows during cool weather is a good start. A heat lamp that can be raised or lowered to adjust the temperature for warmth should be placed strategically in one corner of the whelping box. I strongly urge you to use either a heat lamp or a puppy heating pad as opposed to heating the entire room and subsequently the dam to keep the puppies from chilling. I always keep a thermometer fastened securely to the whelping box and near the floor under the heat lamp so I can monitor that the area is warm enough to prevent the puppies from chilling but not overheating. Both options are viable and a matter of personal preference. Diarrhea following delivery is common, especially if the bitch eats placenta during the birth process. Additionally, the bitch will have a vaginal discharge following delivery, sometimes this is heavy and often it is messy. Weaning pen attached to whelping box. Notice the fleece pads in use for bedding in the whelping box and the newspaper strips being used in the weaning pen. Thanks to Debbie Bjerkestrand for sharing her photos with us. Once this process begins, Mom stops wiping their little butts and cleaning up after them so — well — poop begins to happen! Around days of age, caring for Gordon Setter puppies becomes a challenge, and you need to have a plan ready to enact for how you will handle the much-needed expansion. Unless you live in a temperate climate, you like me, will most often be raising those puppies completely indoors with a trips outside to play when the weather permits. This is where a weaning pen comes in. Weaning Pen — this is an enclosure that can be constructed from same material as the whelping box, an exercise pen, or any other puppy safe fence like material that will confine the pups in a larger space so they have more room to run and play and to also use as a potty area, thus keeping the whelping box a clean area for sleeping and eating. The size of the area you need for a weaning area will depend on the size of the litter, obviously twelve puppies would need more room than four. Bedding for the Weaning Pen — the trick to keeping puppies clean and sweet-smelling is to find the right bedding for soaking up the pee and poo that comes right along with their cute wiggly little butts. After years and years and many different choices my favorite bedding for weaning puppies, will always pine shavings never cedar shavings as they are toxic. This means that my puppy weaning pen needs a solid 3 or 4 inch tall rail to hold the shavings inside the pen, rather like bedding in a horse stall. Urine will soak right into the shavings keeping it out-of-the-way. I am used to buying bales of pine shavings at a farm feed store, so places that sell horse and cattle supplies will often carry them. They are bagged in paper or plastic and are about the size of a bale of hay. I want the large, flaked, actual wood shavings not the small, fine stuff that is used in hamster cages. The drawback is that the flakes get everywhere as they drift and float about or stick in hair and on shoes. But cleaning up those stray shavings sure beats cleaning up stinky puppy poop papers! I use a poop scoop to clean out the puppy piles frequently and when the shavings start to appear dirty or wet I scoop them out with a shovel, disinfect the floor with some bleach and throw down a new 2 to 3 inch deep pile of shavings for pups. Newspaper strips — can also be used as bedding in the weaning pen. I know it is possible to by newspaper in rolls for this use so you may have success purchasing this online as well as locally. There should be an open puppy door to allow the pups free access to move freely between inside and out. Puppy play area and weaning pen. Thanks to Laurie Ward for sharing this photo of her indoor set up. As the puppies grow, having a much larger place for the puppies to roam and play is important for muscle development and socialization skills. Puppies kept in a small whelping box until they are 8 weeks old will have poorer muscle development, could have coordination problems, and be socially delayed compared to pups who are allowed to run, play, and explore both inside and outside. People socialization is extremely important between 4 to 8 weeks of age for Gordon Setter puppies, so spending as much time with them as you can both inside and outside is critical, as are inviting neighbors and friends by to visit with them. This is the time when your puppies need to be introduced to as many sights, sounds and smells as you can safely find for them, so be sure to enlarge their world to include time outside the weaning pen too. Debbie Bjerkestrand shared these photos of her puppies outside at play. In addition I found a couple of sites with whelping box plans to give you a variety of things to look at as you decide what it is that you want to include in your set up. If you already have some awesome ideas, techniques or items that you use in your Whelping Setup please share them with us by using the comment section below. Click any of these links to view products such as or whelping box plans:. Whelping and Raising Puppies Week 6 to 7. It has been proven to work best to have the potty area farthest away from where you greet the puppies. This picture shows the box I use for an indoor puppy potty station. It is located far from bed and food, by the door that is used to go outside. You can see on that door the bells that are hanging; some owners like to use the bell system for the older dogs to ask to go outside. They soon learn if they ring the bells, the door gets opened. These puppies are too young to learn this, but do use the box. Potty station box is a Rubbermaid under mattress storage box with short sides. It is easy to clean. I do not recommend puppy parents to use this system unless the puppy is an apartment dog and will continue to use a potty station. It is recommended that when you first get your puppy at 8 weeks or older, you immediately begin the type of potty training that will be routine, i. All dogs prefer to go outside. At five to seven weeks, putting a crate in the pen like one they will be using at their new home is recommended. They do not see this new den as a scary thing, in fact they stuff themselves into it. See article about crate training Pen designed for the Misty Method of housebreaking very young puppies. Using the Misty Method , at seven weeks, the play area has been expanded to its maximum size as they are really playful now, and need room to run, romp and roll. Included in this box are enough toys for each to take one home. It will smell very nice and familiar to them. They are also being introduced to crates. A seven and a half-week-old puppy with the vet. Seven and a half-week-old puppies at the vet. At six weeks pups are NOT yet ready to have their first set of booster shots. I like to wait till they are seven or eight weeks old. This will be their second visit to the vet; the first was at three days old for an exam and dew claw removal. Remember, this first set of three booster shots ONLY protects the puppy for you to get this puppy home. New puppies should NEVER be socialized outside the family home or your own fenced-in yard fenced, as you do not want strange dogs eliminating in your yard. The last set of boosters, including rabies, is done in another four weeks. Your puppy is now protected, and is able to go to the park, where unknown dogs have been. At seven weeks, puppies can be taught small training skills, and they are also able to start to recognize their name. Seven-week-old puppies are still too young to ship as cargo. I rarely ship via cargo, but if this is the only way, nine weeks would be the very youngest. Vet shopping: If you do not have a vet you have a good relationship with, shop for a new vet. I recommend that if you are not totally convinced by the second set of shots that this is the vet for you and your new companion, then try a different vet for the third set of shots. I love my vet there are six at the clinic , and they LOVE my dogs and puppies as their own. Breeders that use the Misty Method have their puppies well on their way to being housetrained before they leave the breeder. Seven puppies in this litter and they are all using the poop station. All of them. There needs to be a divider between the poop station and the play area because puppies run and play and roll and drag and chew the paper. The picture shown above has the divider removed for cleaning. When they are playing, it kind of sections it off and stops them from running into the potty area to play—they just don't. They play in the clean area, and even excited they will sometimes run on the paper, but not as much. The wood is awesome, but doesn't need to go full length and it does not need a door. This litter is exceptionally trained at seven and a half weeks of age. ALL have gone pee and poop on the paper station area during the night; their play area is clean. I usually find an accident or two each morning, but the last couple nights have been accident free. When they have to go, they stop what they are doing and run through the door to the paper. None of the pups are in this picture, as they are running free in the kitchen. They are almost ready to go to their new homes and ready for some individual training. This litter has been cared for and raised properly. They know at such a young age that there is a designated spot to do business, and that is not in bed, or the play area, and not all over the house. When you do not have a separate place for the pups to poop, they just poop where they play, and then roll and play in it.And when you try to clean it up they mob you and the pile of poop. The dog door works awesome. I can lock them on either side while I clean up mistakes, or change the paper or bedding. The door can be closed. Tips on paper-training a litter of pups.Pre-housetraining should be part of the process in housetraining a dog. One of the leading causes for dog neglect, and the dog becoming a fixture in the backyard, is from poor house habits. It is a well-known fact that no one wants a dog that hasn't learned to eliminate outside or in a designated indoor potty station, wandering loose in the house. It is also the most enjoyable relationship to have your dog involved in everyday family activities. This IS why you got the dog in the first place, isn't it??? No one wants a dog that hasn't learned to eliminate outside or in a designated spot in the house. Do not raise the puppies in one big box or put the paper in a corner; the pups will just drag the paper everywhere and play with it. With experience, I have learned sectioned rooms work best. That is how a house is.Even outside, dogs create a place to eliminate and usually go to that area repeatedly. Do not change the paper too often in the beginning, as you are creating the odor of an elimination spot to trigger instinct. I advise covering poop and pee with a layer of paper during the day and cleaning up each morning, leaving one piece of paper with pee smell. You cannot keep too clean, as when young the smell is what draws them to that area If you leave the paper soiled, they will also find another place to go.So you have to find a happy medium, which is clean, but smelling like a bathroom. By seven weeks, you can change the paper as often as you like, as it isn't the smell that is drawing them; they have learned that is the designated area to eliminate. Removable wood divider used in the Misty Method of housetraining very young puppies A wooden removable divider used for penning off the puppies in different areas. At night it is open as they walk over and potty and go back to bed. But in the day when they are active, I put up a divider, mainly to HOLD the paper where it is or else they will drag it. This stops them from playing and skidding into a land mine poop. The wood was in place in the night. This wood does one more thing: puppies will go to the paper and stand with their front paws on the paper and back end off, and will pee all over the floor, four inches from the paper. The wood encourages them to go INTO the potty area. This one area is all clean, ready for them to come out into the playroom in the morning. They have the 10 x 10 room at night. On the deck, notice the potty station in the background. The outdoor potty station is the adult station. It is paper, under a rack, as.Then you have a flood puddle of pee, and they all step in it. So, pee gravel is what I have in the other runs. However, if they are in the house and need to get out, they can get to the deck where there is the paper under a rack. So five dogs can pee, and none will get their feet wet and track it back into the house. Pups playing with the kids in the morning The pups all decide to take a nap in the small crate inside their area. Giving them a crate to crawl into is an excellent way to make the trip to their new homes less stressful. Upon bringing your puppy home, housetraining should begin immediately. A dog needs to be housebroken before you give him the run of your home. TEACH your dog by habit, not by hitting, that there is a spot for everything—a place to eat, a place to sleep and a place to eliminate; exactly what he already hopefully has started to learn as a pup living with the breeder. And as the owner, you can train your dog to eliminate in a place of your choice. Just remember when choosing this spot that it will become permanent. See article on crate training for more tips. Courtesy of MistyTrails Havanese.

At what age is a Poodle fully grown? Poodles are considered fully grown adults at two years old and tend to show emotional signs of maturity, like a calmer nature, around 18 months. At a year old, most Poodles will have reached their final height or very close to it. However, most Poodles will require a full two years to fill out their chest and reach their final weight. Image Source: Pexels How big should a 6-month-old Poodle be? A six-month-old male Poodle will weigh around 41 to 48 pounds, while a six-month-old female Poodle will weigh about 28 to 34 pounds. Both male and female Poodles at this age stand at around 18 to 22 inches tall, which for some Poodles is already their full adult height. Pro Tip: Check out this ultimate pet parent guide with 39 dog care tips on pet first aid kits, puppy-proofing practices, training, veterinary appointments, and more! How much bigger will my Poodle get? There are a few ways to assess how much bigger your Poodle will get. The first is age. If your Poodle is less than a year old, they still have significant growth left! If your Poodle is between one and two years old, they are likely still filling out a bit, but are probably at their adult height. Do they still look oversized next to their legs and body? If this is the case, they are probably still filling out as this is a classic puppy feature! A Poodle puppy will rarely grow larger than their bigger parent, so this will also give you an idea of their maximum size. What is the size of a full-grown Poodle? According to the American Kennel Club Official Poodle Standards , an adult male Poodle is 60 to 70 pounds while an adult female Poodle weighs between 40 and 50 pounds. By these standards, full-grown Poodles will be over 15 inches tall when measuring from the ground to the highest point of their shoulders while standing. Most Standard Poodles will stand between 18 and 24 inches tall. Smart lifestyle choices are essential in keeping your Poodle happy and healthy. The Veterinary Centers of America recommend a long walk, jog, or intense play to fulfill their daily exercise needs. Poodles were bred as retrievers and, as such, are keen on games involving retrieving like fetch. Many Poodles also enjoy swimming. Due to their full coats, Poodles can put on excess weight without their pet parents realizing it. Poodles are not overly prone to weight issues with a balanced diet, but their coat can disguise weight changes. Their full coats also require regular upkeep like brushing and combing every other day, professional grooming every six weeks or so, and watching for potential eye problems. Poodles are prone to weeping eyes and eye irritation from lashes or hair, so keeping their eye area free of long hair is ideal. As a purebred dog breed, Poodles are more susceptible to genetic health problems. Many of these genetic health problems can be screened for early on using DNA technology. These early screenings can help you and your veterinarian prevent and minimize health complications from these genetic diseases. A bove all else, regular veterinary care is the best way to make sure your Poodle stays healthy. Between health screenings, regular veterinary care, bloodwork, x-rays , dental cleanings , and more, your veterinarian is your best resource in caring for your precious Poodle puppy. Be aware, vet visits can quickly become expensive - especially when immediate treatment or surgery is needed for an emergency or illness. With many treatments and surgeries costing thousands of dollars, this can quickly put pet parents in a pinch should the worst happen to their pet. Poodles are larger dogs, which can also increase the price of treatment. This is where pet insurance comes in. Pet insurance reimburses you for out-of-pocket veterinary costs and provides a safety net should the worst happen to your Poodle. As purebred dogs, Poodles are more prone to genetic health problems, like bloat or hip dysplasia, which can quickly become expensive to treat. Final Considerations Poodle puppies grow into elegant, proud dogs who are true aristocrats of the dog kingdom. We know how much your Poodle pup means to you and that they deserve the best! Give yourself peace of mind today when you use Pawlicy Advisor to compare personalized pet insurance quotes from the top Poodle pet insurance companies. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. This can be seen in the standard poodle growth chart below. Standard Poodle Growth Chart in Pictures Growth Calculator for Standard Poodles Weight and Height Use the calculator below to calculate the adult weight and height of your standard poodle based on its current weight and height. This calculator is based on the typical growth chart for standard poodles. Use This Weight Calculator To Check Use the calculator above to find the ideal weight and the normal weight range of a standard poodle, male or female, of any age between 12 weeks and weeks. The calculator will also tell you if your standard poodle is of normal weight, overweight, or underweight. This standard poodle growth calculator uses the data from a research study on dog weight carried out by researchers at the University of Liverpool. Growth Stages of a Standard Poodle Each Standard poodle will be a little different when it comes to how big they will get and how quickly they will reach their mature size. This is a guide on what to expect as your Standard poodle starts to grow. According to AKC show rules , a standard Poodle that is 15 inches or less in height is not eligible to compete in AKC conformation dog shows. According to the American Kennel Club AKC , the height of the adult standard poodle is over 15 inches, and the weight of the male standard poodle is between 60 and 70 pounds, while the weight of the adult female standard poodle is between 40 and 50 pounds. An adult poodle that is bigger than a miniature poodle but smaller than a standard poodle is considered a Moyen poodle. Below are the growth stages of my standard poodle in pictures, from 4 weeks to 7 months. Standard Poodle Size from Birth to 4 Weeks When your standard poodle is first born, they are just a few ounces to a pound in weight, and they are less than 10 inches in height. They will quickly start to get nutrients from their mother and start to grow. By the time standard poodles are weaned from their mother, they are around 4 to 5 pounds. Most standard poodle puppies will gain about 1 pound a week over the first four weeks of their lives. Standard Poodle Size from 4 to 8 Weeks Between week 4 to week 8 is the time when most standard poodle puppies go to their new homes. Standard poodle puppies also get their first set of vaccines between weeks 4 and 8. Your vet will be able to check your new puppy for any issues that might cause them abnormal growth. Standard poodle puppies at 4 to 8 weeks old will be about 10 to 13 inches in height, and they will weigh 7 to 10 pounds. Standard Poodle Size from 2 Months to 4 Months A 3-month old standard poodle puppy Your Standard poodle puppy will need extra care and attention during the 2 to 4 months period. This will help to make sure that they are receiving the proper nutrition so that their bones can correctly develop. By the time that your standard poodle has reached 4 months of age, they will be around 13 to 19 inches in height and they will weigh between 10 and 22 pounds. Standard Poodle Size from 4 months to 8 Months During the 4 to 8 months period, your Standard Poodle will start to slow down a little in growth. They have finished their puppy stage and entering their teenage stage. They will be learning the explore the world around them and even getting into a lot of trouble .By the time your Standard Poodle is 6 months old, they should 19 to 23 inches in height, and weigh about 30 to 40 pounds. Standard Poodle Size from 8 Months to One Year At 8 months to 1 year, your standard poodle will reach its adult height. The average adult height of a standard poodle is 23 to 27 inches. After this time, your Standard Poodle will not get much taller. A standard poodle should weigh 40 to 50 pounds at this age. Your standard poodle should be 24 to 27 inches tall at 1 to 2 years of age. Male standard poodles weigh on average 45 to 70 pounds where females weigh 45 to 60 pounds. Once your standard poodle is a year of age, you should switch their diet from puppy food to one that is designed for adult dogs. This will help prevent your standard poodle from becoming overweight. Obesity can cause many health issues, such as joint pain, diabetes, and arthritis. When looking at your Standard Poodle puppy, the best way to tell how big that they will be is to look at their parents. If both parents of your standard poodle puppy were very large, and then most likely, your standard poodle would be larger. If one parent was big and one was small, your puppy could be at either end of the size chart of they could fall in between. Will the biggest Dog in the Litter be the Biggest as an Adult? It is a very common misconception that the biggest standard poodle puppy in the litter will be the biggest adult poodle. Actually, many different factors are responsible for which puppy will end up as the biggest adult dog. All large breed puppies need to eat food designed for large breed puppies. Therefore, make sure you feed your standard poodle dog food that is designed for large breed puppies. This is because standard poodles are big dogs compared to other dog breeds. By feeding a large breed puppy food to your puppy, you are giving your poodle puppy the nutrients that they need to help them stay healthy. These foods differ from regular puppy dog food in 4 ways by being lower in: Calcium Phosphorus and Vitamin D Most people think that large breed dogs need a diet that is higher in calcium to help support healthy bone growth. Large breed puppies will require a special diet to help avoid certain health risks. A standard poodle will require careful monitoring for any signs of orthopedic disease, obesity, and bloat. The development of these diseases is heavily influenced by the nutrition that you feed your standard poodle. What if My Standard Poodle is Overweight? There are many things that you can do to help your standard poodle lose weight. If your adult standard poodle is underweight you can usually just increase the amount of food that you are feeding them to help them add on a few extra pounds. Final Thoughts Your standard poodle puppy may look as if they are growing right in front of you. You notice them growing really fast right in front of your eyes. During this period, your standard poodle will just start to fill out. Once your standard poodle is about 2 years old, it should not get any bigger. Some will gain weight due to being overfed, but they should be able to maintain a healthy weight if you feed your poodle properly. By feeding your Standard poodle the correct nutrition, you are setting them up for a healthy and happy life. Their growth happens quickly with the correct nutrients received from the mother. Your pup will grow rapidly from this stage, gaining about 1 pound 0. Their eyes will now be fully open and also be able to hear sounds. Your puppy will weigh between 4 and 5 pounds 1. Most puppies will move on to their new homes at this age. They will receive their first vaccinations at this age, and it is a good time to have your vet give them a thorough examination to determine any issues going forward. Their bones and joints will grow and strengthen, so proper nutrition is vital for their development. By the time your puppy is three months old, it will be around 13 to 19 inches 33 to .They will be learning to explore and become active. Your Standard Poodle will weigh about 30 pounds .They will start becoming far more active and should be between 19 and 23 inches .This period is all about exploring and mischief. Both male and female puppies will stand around 18 to 22 inches .This is the full adult height for some standard-sized Poodles, and you should not expect any more significant height growth. This will range from 23 and 37 inches .Their weight will be between 45 and 70 pounds .Genetics and Common Health Problems When trying to work out how big your puppy will be as an adult dog, one of the best ways of determining this would be to look at the parent dogs. When you purchase a Poodle puppy from a breeder, you will have a chance to meet the mom and the dad. If they are on the large or small side for the breed, likely, your dog will also follow in their footsteps. If your dog contracts any common health problems that haunt this breed, his growth could also be affected. Hip dysplasia is also a common ailment in large breeds and causes significant amounts of pain and can affect growth. Bloat is another terrifying ailment for this breed that is potentially life-threatening if not caught early. It occurs in big-chested breeds where gas gets trapped in the stomach, requiring surgical intervention. Epilepsy is a hereditary ailment in Poodles and is known as Idiopathic epilepsy. Many of the above diseases can be avoided through proper nutrition and regular vet checkups. Neutering or spaying dogs too early could cause them to grow unevenly. This is because bone and joint development are affected by reproductive hormones. While Miniature and Toy dogs can be neutered at around six months, you should wait until your Standard Poodle is around one year old before the procedure is performed. At the right age, neutering or spaying your dog can have many health benefits, including reducing cancer risks, preventing aggression, and preventing unwanted puppies. Feeding Habits A balanced nutritional meal plan will ensure that your pet grows at the optimal rate, developing strong bones and joints to carry their weight. To prevent your dog from growing too quickly and to provide him with all the supplements and nutrients he needs for healthy growth, it is recommended to feed your Standard Poodle, a large-breed puppy food for at least the first year of his life. Physical Activities While Standard Poodles need plenty of exercise, be careful not to over-train your growing puppy, as their joints and limbs have not fully developed, and irreparable damage can be caused. Dogs need to be brushed and groomed regularly. Included in this regime should be teeth brushing. We know Standard Poodle dogs develop problems with their teeth. You will also need to maintain a healthy diet with plenty of exercise. Healthy Diet Large breed dogs like Standard Poodles should eat high-quality dog food crafted explicitly for them. Foods for large dogs differ from other dog foods in that they generally have higher levels of protein, fat, calcium, Vitamin D, and Phosphorus. Also read: Best Dog Food for Poodles 2. Their joints and limbs are not fully developed, and any strain could lead to a lifetime of complications for your Poodle. Standard Poodles love water, so swimming is always an excellent way to exercise. A full coat can weigh your dog down, so if your Poodle loves to swim, you might consider giving him a shorter haircut like a kennel cut or summer clip. Manage Stress To keep your puppy stress-free, expose him to as many new situations, people, and dogs as possible during his early years to become well-socialized. It can take these dogs a whole year to reach their full height and even longer to reach their fully grown weight. Trying to get your dog to grow more quickly by feeding him more or exercising him intensely to build body mass is a dangerous process that could lead to the opposite effect. Even once your dog has reached his full height at a year, it will still take him another year to fill out to his final adult size. When do Standard Poodles stop growing? At a year old, your Poodle should have reached its total height, or at the very least be very close to it. There will not be much height growth after this milestone. Your dog will start adding body mass and strengthening the joints to handle the weight. A Standard Poodle should have matured and calmed down by the month milestone; however, this depends on the owner and how they have interacted and trained him in his foundation months. An untrained Standard Poodle can keep their momentum going until the age of 4 or 5 years. Do Poodle types have different growth rates? Yes, Standard Poodles are much slower to grow than other Poodles. These dogs are not small, and their bones and joints have much more growing to do. Miniature or toy breeds will reach their adult size quicker than bigger dogs. Miniature and Toy Poodles will already look the size of an adult dog by around six months old. What if my dog is overweight or underweight? Standard Poodles are full of high energy and fast metabolism. It can be challenging to tell if your dog is overweight, mainly if he is very fluffy. You should use your hands to check your dog to see if he is overweight regularly. You should easily be able to feel his ribs under his skin. You can also cut out all treats and increase his daily exercise. Making these small lifestyle changes can quickly help your dog lose that extra weight. For Poodle breeds, underweight dogs are very common, though. You could also increase portion size or opt for high-quality food with higher fat content, although this should be done under the professional guidance of a trained veterinarian. With more information about Standard Poodle puppies, their height, and their weight now in hand, you can begin measuring your pup. The food you give your dog and his exercise regime also has a big part to play in keeping your dog healthy and growing well. Do you have a Standard Poodle at home? How big is your dog? We would love to know more about him in the comments below. Raised by a bundle of botanists, researchers, and biologists, she is passionate about things related to the animal kingdom, including, our furry friends. However, as a terrible allergy sufferer, she is limited in her pet selection and so has grown up surrounded by curly-haired Poodles. Leave a Comment. The Standard Poodle will grow continuously for the first year of their life, but after turning 1, they will stop growing in height but will fill out in weight. This increase in weight should take about 6 months. By 18 months of age, the Standard Poodle is usually at their maximum weight and height. Smaller breeds tend to grow into their adult size much faster than the larger breeds. The Toy Poodle might gain her mature height and weight as early as 5 to 6 months. However, the average for Miniature and Toy Poodles to physically mature is 7 to 8 months. Mental maturity usually takes a little longer. Of course, some dogs might be adults but will remain puppyish in behavior for their entire lives. Unfortunately, these studies have not yet determined the right age, but it is recommended to wait until your dog has reached full skeletal growth, particularly large breeds, before spaying or neutering. Dangers of Growing Too Quickly or Stunted Growth If you end up overfeeding your puppy, some health concerns can include obesity, hip dysplasia, abnormalities in the skeleton, and osteochondrosis. This will cause pain and difficulty walking as your puppy becomes an adult. Follow the guidelines on the back of the dog food bag for the amount you should feed them over the course of the day. These same rules apply to your Toy and Miniature Poodle puppies. When you settle on the food for your puppy, follow the food bag guidelines for the amount you should feed your puppy every day. Following the charts and creating your own chart to keep track of how they are growing should go a long way to ease any worries you may have. All puppies will have growth spurts and times when it seems to slow down, but this is a normal part of puppy development.