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Front and back Long lines are best attached from the back The back-attachment point is ideal for long lines. Attaching it to the front risks the entangling of the front legs. A front and back harness gives maximum flexibility. Double ended Two leash attachment points Using a back-attachment point lets you use a double-ended leash. A single-ended leash can tighten the harness when only attached to the front. Different harnesses have variable tightness degrees. One with front and back attachment reduces gaping by balancing tension. Clipping the leash attachments at two points sounds too much, but it is best. Optimal control comes from a properly fitted dog harness. Handling large pets become effortless. Material Material quality is the first factor. Nylon, polyester, and breathable hybrid materials are a few options. The harness must not put much pressure on the neck and throat. The pull should be evenly distributed throughout the chest and body. Look for a harness guaranteeing sturdiness and comfort. Strength A 6 month old lab can also drag you in public. Labradors are naturally inclined to swim, play and have high energy. Labs are famous military dogs. Dogs without no-pull training can be challenging to maintain in long walks. A harness with extra padding provides the required strength. Look for safety features, reliable buckles, and quality stitching only. Size Labradors are medium-sized dogs that mature at six months. But they grow after maturity too. A harness with an adjustable strap is handy. A labrador retriever continues to grow for two years. Opt for a flexible harness that can be adjusted. Adjustability Adjustability is a vital consideration for young pups. Adjustable harnesses fit any body type or size. Ensure the clips are adjustable and well-built. A strong and popular breed like a labrador can break cheap clips. Comfort Double padding is a must for both young and old dogs. A soft harness is comfortable and prevents injuries. Some are only made for running and keep your dog in great shape. Safety Safety features like reflective material is a must-have. It increases dog visibility during early morning or night walks. Labrador retrievers who are likely to escape are more secure with such features. Some come with attached handles for more security. It is easier to grab your pet if they take off. Harnesses with seat belt features are also becoming popular. Durability Durability becomes vital if you buy a harness for the lab puppy. Always pick harnesses with a higher durability rating. An extremely durable dog harness will last from puppyhood to adulthood. Go for fully adjustable ones for the best results. Cost Budget is essential but comes second to quality. Buying cheaper products will make you spend again. Though cheap pet products are pocket-friendly, they lack quality. Get a good harness instead of going for cheap ones. Soft vests are best for puppies and older labradors. A front, rear, or dual clip harness is great for adult labs. From dual clip to step-in harnesses, there are several. Labrador Vest Harness These are basic walk harnesses. They are simple, lightweight, and inexpensive and made of mesh, plastic, or nylon. Dog owners with well-behaved dogs on leashes can get these. But the front and back clip harness can be attached at all the points. A double-ended leash is required for the front clip attachment. One point is attached at the front and another at the back. It provides more control over your escape artist. A no-pull dog harness minimizes the pup pulls without hurting them. Tactical Dog Harnesses These are popular for training, trekking, and hunting. Besides labs, it is ideal for other dog breeds, like German Shepherds. Military and service dogs wear tactical harnesses often. Tightening and Control Harness These harnesses are more aggressive than standard ones. They will tighten when your dog pulls. Dog chests can be squeezed on tightening. Experienced trainers and dog handlers use them best. Not sure which chest piece is right for your dog? Our list comprises of the 10 best harnesses for labradors. They are made from sturdy material and have the necessary safety features. Now lets look at all the harnesses one by one. A good labrador harness requires time, effort, and patience to buy. Avoid cheap harnesses that can snap, fall apart, or break. Ensure the chest piece fits well and is not tight. The dog must move with ease wearing the harness. The no-pull harness alone is not enough. Train your labrador retriever for adequate results. Measure the neck and the chest for an accurate fit. Add two inches to the chest measurement in case your lab gains weight. Check the tightness after fastening the clips and buckles. Your two fingers must fit to ensure it is comfortable. If not, then it is too tight. But a harness is comfortable and makes training straightforward. Lab puppies may bite the leash too much initially. However, showing patience will go a long way. Here are a few tips to acclimatize dogs:- Positive reinforcement training is best to accustom your lab. Giving them treats or toys when they follow commands is beneficial. Start slow and small. Place the harness on the floor and let them explore. Let the dog get used to the buckles and leash. You can treat them for being brave and sniffing. Put on the harness if you see progress. Let the dog walk around wearing the harness. Even if it is for a few minutes, treat them. Start with small neighborhood strolls if the dog is confident. Increase the walk durations gradually for smoothness. Irrespective of their style, you need the best harnesses for effective energy management. These athletic dogs are up for everything from trekking to hunting. You need a high-quality harness for your lively pooch. The best harnesses for labradors are:- RabbitGoo is best if you want to control your large lab easily. Kurgo Tru-Fit Smart is for labradors having frequent car rides. Eagloo dog harness provides maximum comfort with its breathable material. Each harness offers unique features and benefits. The final call comes down to your requirements. Harnesses are better suited for walking dogs. Collars are more comfortable and hold the ID. Vets suggest using a harness for many dogs with breathing issues. Should a Labrador wear a harness? Labradors are athletic and sturdy. Having a harness makes them easier to manage. Be it walks, hikes, or treks, they are secured. What size harness for lab puppy is best? You will need at least a 9-inch long collar for a lab puppy. Most labrador retrievers fit into the large harness category. For accuracy, take labrador measurements. How do I stop my Labrador from pulling on the leash? Starting leash training with a harness early is suggested. Teach them self-control and practice attention. Treat them when the position is correct. Do not let pulling reinforce. Should I use a collar or harness for my Lab? Dog Harnesses are considered humane for pets. They give more control than collars. Different harness types also make it easier to choose for your lab pup. What size harness for 8 week lab puppy? The size range for a small harness for an 8-week-old Labrador puppy is: Chest: inches. Similar in style to the Rabbitgoo — the Winsee is both a walking and a front range harness. The harness itself is made from a D oxford fabric with high density that prevents your Lab from easily chewing or tearing it. Collar or a Harness for a Labrador Labradors have a lot of energy and require much exercise as a result. Many Labrador owners at first default to giving their Lab a dog collar and walking them that way. After a few weeks of frustration from being dragged around on the street with constant pulling, some consider an alternative to their collars and decide on a dog harness. Pulling in Labradors is not uncommon and something seasoned Lab owners will be familiar with. For first time owners, however, it can be not only frustrating but challenging. It can not only cause discomfort for you, particularly your hands but can lead to discomfort and stress for your dog. Regardless, if your dog is a puller or not — we suggest using a collar solely for ID tags to help identify them should they get lost. Types of Lab Harnesses There are several types of harness out there, which can be a little daunting at first. Labrador Vest Harness Simple, inexpensive and used as a basic walking harness. Often made from plastic, mesh or nylon — they are designed for lightweight general wear and for dogs who are already well behaved on their leash. Back clip dog harnesses have a lead attachment point at the back. A standard leash can be clipped on for normal walking. Front clip harnesses, such as the SENSE-ation, have an attachment point solely at the front of the chest area. These are very different than your traditional harnesses in that the lead only attaches to the front — which may seem odd at first — however, they can often be recommended by trainers as an easier way to reduce pulling. Front and Back clip harnesses have points at both the top back and include a secondary attachment point at the front chest of the harness. One point attaches to the back, the other to the front. This offers increased control of your dog, similar to the reins used on a horse. A no-pull harness is made to reduce the impact of the dog pulling on their lead, as well as aid in the training of your dog. Tightening and Control Harness There are more aggressive than standard anti-pulling harnesses, and tighten when your dog starts pulling. These can be uncomfortable as they can squeeze the dogs chest as they tighten. These harness types are best reserved for experienced dog handlers and trainers. Although often associated with Military and Service dogs, they are also to be found as training harnesses, hunting harnesses or general trekking. Labrador Harness Size and Measurements Standard adult labrador sizes vary, but according to the American Kennel Club , an average male labrador height is between .This places Labs in the category of a medium-large breed, with harness sizes reflecting that. Normally this will be a large-sized harness, though it will vary depending on the manufacturer. To get an accurate measurement for your Labrador and Lab puppy, follow the steps below. Measure The Chest The most crucial part of your measurement is the chest. Take a tape measure and wrap it around the widest part of the chest. This is found a few inches behind the front legs. Add a Few Inches You should all a couple of inches to the total to allow for movement and growth. Take the tape measure and measure around the circumference of the neck. What Makes a Good Labrador Dog Harness Finding the right dog harness can take not only time and effort but patience from you, the owner. Be careful not to select a harness that is likely to fall apart, snap or break when put under strain. Check that the harness fits well and allows for movement. Summary We hope you found our article on the best harnesses for Labradors helpful in making your choice. Dog harnesses are a good alternative to walking your dog on a collar and lead. Harnesses are also great if your dog is a puller. They can also be used for training your dog to stop them from tugging on their leash when walking them. You should also find a harness that fits the size of your breed, as too loose opens them up to escape and too tight can leave them uncomfortable. There's little he doesn't know about dogs. TopDog loves agility but is far too unfit to keep up. Offers advice and articles on dog harnesses, collars, travel, food and temperament. Is woeful at speaking foreign languages. The critical difference is the degree of dressing up required. This is a moment of personal reflection: do you have a tough time getting out of the house to take your Labrador for a walk? Minimizing the effort required to take your dog walking will ensure that you actually take him out. If your Labrador pulls on his lead, the pressure can quickly start producing irreversible damage. Can Trouble Dogs Even the most humane collars can bother some Labradors. Most new puppies might have trouble accepting a heavy collar. Starting with a light collar at an early age can offset this disadvantage. Some dog trainers can lead-train dogs with collars by building on a foundation of familiarity set by owners who get their dogs to accept light collars early on. This means both products need to be able to cater to different sizes. Most harnesses can house a range of body sizes. But when it comes to collars, your Labrador might start choking on the collar without you realizing it. Adjustable collars can offset this problem. In my opinion, even if you have compassionately trained your Labrador to accept his collar and even go on long walks with the lead attached to the said collar, what happens when your dog gets over-excited? It is quite literally impossible to hold him in position without choking him. Verdict on Dog Collars Dog collars are great to indicate ownership and protect your Labrador from being assumed and treated as a stray. Apart from that, I see no advantage in collars, especially when walking on a lead. So a nuanced approach would be to use a light collar and use a harness whenever you use a lead so that you can sidestep the dangers of lead walking a puppy with a collar. More importantly, your Labrador can pull the lead without hurting himself. More Room for Error If your Labrador puppy wears a collar, you need to follow his growth closely lest the collar begins choking him. Above all, it is more noticeable when your puppy outgrows his harness compared to when he outgrows his collar. In the worst-case scenario, you get to hold back your Lab with sheer force without hurting him as much. Tugging on a collar when your Labrador is trying his best to get away is heartless. That said, you should note that dogs give in more easily when their collar is tugged compared to holding back a harness. The ease, however, is mutually exclusive with kindness in this instance as a submission comes through the pain with a collar. In other words, a harness is something you would want on your pup only on walks. Most well-trained Labradors can go without a harness for short walks, and the harness is left for lead walks. Your Dog Will Take Time to Get Used to It This is a size-driven disadvantage that seems like a logical tradeoff when compared to the burden it offsets. I believe removing cruelty from the equation is well worth the relatively long waiting period. Starting with a light harness with a young Lab puppy is a perfect way to normalize it. Both collars and harnesses are uncomfortable initially, and in the long run, your dog can get used to both. While some trainers make arguments for collars, they are almost exclusively positioned as okay for larger dogs with stronger necks. This makes a harness your only option when out walking. Should a Labrador Wear a Harness? We have already established that harnesses are gentler than collars on Labradors. So, this may have you wondering, should Labradors wear a harness? A Labrador should wear a harness so that you can control him when he gets over-excited on a walk. A harness also allows your dog to keeps his neck safe when you have him on a tight leash. Doing the same with a collar could cause choking, damage to the trachea, or nerve damage. Harness vs. Collar For a Labrador Puppy Harness Advantages Prevents injuries to the neck Allows a lost dog to be identified from a tag Allows more control Easier to wear for tracking Allows room for growth. Back Attachment Harnesses As the name suggest, these harnesses have the attachment for a leash on the back of the dog, sitting right behind the shoulder blades. However, you should know this: A harness that attaches a leash to the back is the worst kind of harness to use with a dog that likes to pull! So do not use them for this case. With the dog leash attached to their back, it can actually encourage pulling. It feels good to a dog, they like to oppose the pulling from behind with more pulling going forward. Front Attachment Harnesses Again, as the name suggests, these harnesses have an attachment for the leash at the front of your dog, right in the middle of their chest. So if they pull, they get turned. This is NOT the result they are after. A dog soon learns that they only get to go forward if they do not pull while wearing such a harness. And so — voila — the problem is solved. Front attaching harnesses are for stopping pulling while on a WALK, not a run or jog. The straps could become tangled, and this would be dangerous for you and your dog. For this you will need to train them not to pull and use a back attaching harness instead. Head Harness or Head Collar Not really a harness in the strictest of terms, but they are frequently described as such and are always grouped with the harnesses by retailers. Regardless, they are a great no-pull dog harness solution so I will include and discuss them here. Once their head is turned, it stops them dead in their tracks. So pulling only makes the walk stop, it effectively has an averse aspect to it the walk is stopped. They learn to not pull while wearing the head collar. A quick word of caution: You simply MUST allow your dog time to slowly get used to wearing the collar, how it feels and works, before ever using it on a walk. Some training and acclimatizing is needed and this could take perhaps a few days, though many dogs do take to them right away. Freedom No Pull Dog Harness The freedom no pull harness is a multi-purpose harness with many fantastic features, making it our top pick of all no pull solutions. It has a martingale style loop on the back so you can attach a leash to the rear and if your dog pulls, it puts gentle pressure on their chest and discourages pulling. The other benefit of the rear attachment is in case you like to go jogging with your dog. However, the more effective no pull solution is the attachment for a leash on the chest that will gently steer your dog if they begin to pull. You can attach a leash to the back, to the front, or even both to give yourself different levels of control and anti-pull aversion. The harness is extremely durable and the manufacturer will replace free of charge up to 2 chewed straps if your dog does manage to do damage. This is the best no pull dog harness we give top marks to and is our number 1 recommendation! Bonus: It currently comes with full details of a step-by-step training system to help you stop your dog pulling long term. PetSafe Easy Walk Dog Harness This simple, front of chest attaching harness gives you the ability to gently steer your dog to the side, stop their pulling and redirect their attention on to you when they pull. The placement of the leash attachment assures this happens automatically every time they pull and so it very quickly teaches them not to pull while walking. Made from strong and durable nylon webbing, with quick release snap attachments makes it very easy to put on and remove. Available in 8 different sizes for different girths and 7 colors, there is a harness to suit all dogs sizes and owners tastes. Head collars are also available and some say are even more effective than traditional, chest attachment harnesses. We discuss two of the most effective and most popular options below. But most dogs take to it very quickly and easily. Therefore, if they do pull, their nose automatically gets turned, their head follows and instantly they become facing you. Your dog cannot pull if they are facing toward you so with this device, as soon as they pull they instinctively stop and the problem is managed…and within just a few minutes of first use! Available in 5 sizes from XS to XL, and 8 different colors, there is a size and color to suit every dog. Like all the harnesses on this page, they are short term solutions. This has absolutely no effect on the eventual price that you pay and we are very grateful for your support. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. There is therefore no risk of the harness rubbing behind the legs. There are no martingale attachments anywhere on this harness, so there is nothing to tighten anywhere when the dog pulls. The Balance harness has both front-and-back attachment points. Just like all front-and-back attachment harnesses, this gives you great flexibility. The harness is really good quality and the metalware is likewise. This means that dogs that dislike having something placed over their heads, can have the Balance put around their neck in a similar way to a snap-up collar. Any gaping really is very minimal when both attachment-points are used, even less than on the Freedom. It is essentially always a black harness, but the vertical strap on the back comes in different colors. If you have multiple dogs, the colored back strap is sufficient for telling you which harness belongs to which dog. But if you are someone who loves different colored harnesses, the Balance may not suit — check out the Freedom. According to the manufacturer, you can attach just to the front-attachment point. But the Balance works best when used in conjunction with a double-fastening leash. So you will need to purchase one separately. The Balance harness does tend to rotate slightly when in use. The neck and girth straps slightly pull the colored back strap off vertical. If this troubles you, check out the Perfect Fit below. Similarly, it would be really hard for even a seasoned escapologist to back out of a Perfect Fit harness. For a growing Labrador puppy, it is possible just to purchase and replace one piece of the three needed for a harness. Should the chewing-machine that is your Labrador puppy, succeed in chewing through the front of the harness, again, just that part would need to be replaced. The Perfect Fit also has a 40mm thick option. This is a very comfortable and stylish-looking harness for large or strong Labradors. The Perfect Fit harness has both front-and-back attachment points, just like the Freedom and Balance, giving the same flexibility. It is safe to be left on the dog when running off-leash. The harness is webbing, backed by soft fleece. This makes for a really comfortable and soft harness, for your Labrador. This means that dogs which dislike having something placed over their heads, can have the Perfect Fit put around their neck. The front-attachment is a large metal D-ring. My plan is to wrap the metal D-ring in duck tape, to silence it. You will need to purchase one of those separately. I anticipate this getting worse with the next few washes. This does not affect the comfort or function of the harness, obviously. Labs love to swim, and have been known to roll in stinky things! Ordering Issues? Lastly, I should say that I had heard about the Perfect Fit harness for about a year before I finally bought one to trial. Selecting three different-sized component parts for a harness and choosing a width of strap is a much more involved process than choosing one size. The Dog-Games website has become a lot easier now, with breed recommendations, but some buyers might still find it confusing. And my top three picks of front-and-back fastening harnesses for Labrador Retrievers are:. Instead, they can prevent injuries from a dog getting tangled in their leash or pulling too hard with a collar. We consider them an excellent training aid that makes using a leash easier for both you and your pup. Many include other features that are handy, such as lift handles for dogs that need help standing. Type and Construction A Retriever is a good-sized dog, weighing anywhere from 50—80 ponds. Therefore, you need a harness that can control him and is durable enough to stand up to the challenge. There are several types, each one with its pros and cons. This style is an excellent choice for pups that get tangled in their leash because it keeps it away from their feet. The force of the leash goes to his back, instead. However, if your pooch is muscular with less-than-perfect leash manners, you may find him harder to manage with this type of harness. Front-Clip Harness The front-clip harness puts you in charge of your pup while requiring less work on your part. You can easily redirect him if necessary. The tightening harness takes care of that issue with a gentle tug that gets your Lab back on point. Just as with an unruly stallion, this type will give you control over your larger Retriever. Kind of Closure There are also several variations on the type of closure and how it secures on your Lab. It is the most popular option. There are also quick-release and bolt-on products. Material Nylon, by far, is the most common harness material. It offers a lot of advantages for Lab owners. They are lightweight. They will also dry quickly after a romp in the lake chasing a ball. These products are also affordably priced and excellent value for the money. You can get a blaze orange one for hunting and another in your choice of many colors and designs. Mesh is another popular choice for the same reasons. Another option for your water-loving pooch is neoprene for those winter walks. Other choices include polyester, canvas, and fleece. We prefer products that you can wash in between uses. A waterproof product is a welcome addition we appreciate. If you take your dog for evening walks, a reflective harness is a must-have. Other options you may find are padding over the chest portion for added comfort, personalization, and dual-clip items that you can attach in front or back. We liked the extra security that this last feature offers. However, the most important thing is comfort, especially if your pup pulls. Most products include a range of inches for each of the key measurements. A harness is not like buying a pair of pants for yourself. Many have different systems of adjusting the size. You need to take three measurements. Finally, you must find out the length of his back. Bear in mind that not all products will specify these three. Some only consider the chest size with adjusting parts for the others. We recommend two inches or the width of two fingers between the strap and your dog. The point is to make it snug to prevent escaping but not too tight to make your pup uncomfortable. After all, avoiding neck damage is one reason that pet owners opt to use a harness over a collar. We also suggest looking at the kind of adjustment on the harness. A sliding one with a clasp gives you a lot more leeway as opposed to a buckle, which has set holes. Of course, it is a fine balance between security on both ends of the spectrum. Its comfortable design was one of the most important features we considered. It provides the necessary snugness without the tightness that can make wearing it irritating. The Sporn Non-Pull Mesh Dog Harness is our pick for best value, thanks to its lightweight design that stands up to pullers. The research for our reviews taught us a vital lesson. These products are highly specialized for the dog, its leash manners, and the amount of control you must have over your Lab. These pups often make simple things like walks a challenge. However, with the right harness, it becomes a non-issue. Featured image credit: PxHere. Tru-Fit Harness with Seatbelt from Kurgo Yes, you should prefer a harness as it is better than a collar for your Lab puppy. This is because they are safer and offer much more control. A harness can also reduce strains compared to the collar which can cause tension around the delicate neck of your Lab puppy. The following are some of the biggest advantages of using a harness on your Lab puppy. Injuries Can be Prevented Harness always takes pressure away from the neck of your Labrador puppy. So you can pull the leash without hurting the dog. More importantly, this will help Labs to pull the lead without getting any injuries by themselves. Despite this, you should still teach your dog to not pull on the leash. But with harnesses, there is enhanced space for your dog to grow and it will not put any pressure on the neck of your Lab puppy. Provide Control without Cruelty This is the reverse of the final disadvantage of dog collars. It can be used if you are losing control of your pup. In this situation, you can use sheer force to hold back your Lab without causing undue pain and discomfort. In the case of collar, when you try to stop a fleeing Labrador by applying force, it can cause serious pain. Although Labs may respond quicker when you use collar, it is a very unkind act for pups. When can a Labrador Puppy Climb Stairs? Click here to find out. First thing first, it is important to purchase a proper size harness for your Lab puppy. You should start with a small-sized harness, depending upon the age and size of your puppy. The best way to find out whether the dog harness is too small for your Lab puppy is to put the harness properly on your dog. Start with fairly loose so that your dog can easily slip into the harness. Then, tighten it and check whether the harness fits properly by fitting two fingers between your dog and the harness at any point. Harnesses are a great choice for Lab puppies. However, owners need to choose the one in which their dog remains comfortable. You should start with the small one and move to the bigger sizes depending upon the size of your puppy. A harness should be tight enough so that your dog will stop slipping from it, especially if he suddenly reverses on you. However, if there is still gap after the fitting of two fingers, then the harness is too loose or big for your Labrador puppy. Want to make a good homemade meal for your Labrador Puppy? The Lab puppies can wear a harness when they are 8 weeks old. Owners should make sure that the harness is not too heavy or uncomfortable for their dogs. The following table shows the size of Labrador puppies in comparison to their age so that the owners can choose the best size.

Contact Us For the Love of Labradors Our labradors are first and foremost family members, residing on acres of serene countryside overlooking the Gippsland mountain ranges. Sound temperament, health, and conformation are of greatest importance to us. As a Dogs Victoria member with a registered breeding kennel, all our labradors are hip and elbow scored, DNA tested for hereditary diseases known to the labrador breed, and ACES certified eye tested. Each labrador has a full pedigree on the Main Register of the Australian National Kennel Council the official registry body in Australia. We are also members of the Labrador Retriever Club of Victoria. We developed such an appreciation of labradors through our own beautifully-natured labs, that we want the true labrador type to flourish by sharing the excellent genetics we have in the breed. Our labradors have champion and international bloodlines behind them, including some of the most renowned labrador bloodlines in the world, and are working towards their own Australian Champion titles. Our motivation is to create labradors who fulfill their purpose of bringing joy and companionship to their humans, aswell as being good examples of their breed by having all the attributes a labrador should have. Our labradors have captivating personalities, consistent temperaments, soundness in labrador type and structure, aesthetically beautiful faces, excellent conformation, and healthy physiques. We celebrate purebred labradors through purposeful breeding of planned litters. Our puppies are raised in a loving and nurturing environment. They are socialized from a young age, and we work on the foundations of good manners and obedience training before they go to their forever homes. Please browse our website pages to continue your journey towards finding your wonderful four-pawed companion. Wishing you the very best in ! Our puppies are vet-checked, microchipped pedigree Labrador Retrievers registered with Dogs Victoria, the Victorian Canine Association. Our Labradors Our puppies are registered with Dogs Victoria, they are microchipped, vaccinated, regularly wormed and vet checked before they leave here at eight weeks old. Our puppies grow up in a very social environment and we encourage new owners to enrol their new pup in a puppy school. We also supply detailed information to help with feeding and care of your new puppy. Over the past few years we have arranged delivery of puppies not only throughout Victoria but also to Tasmania, the NSW south coast, and the Riverina. Call us to discuss your requirements. We had a litter in late March and, while many of the puppies are allocated to new homes, we do have some male chocolate puppies. These puppies will go to new homes at the end of May. We are also happy to provide you with the names of other good breeders around Geelong and Victoria generally. So feel free to contact us on 03 or email us. Regular Grooming Temperament The Labrador retriever is famously friendly, meaning they are a reliable family member that is known to be kind and loyal, and fantastic around young children. Suitability Even though the labrador is quite laid back, they do require larger amounts of excercise. They are very enthusiastic and motivated, enjoying fetching, swimming and other forms of mental stimulation and enrichment as they are intelligent. Coat The Labrador coat is dense, short and weather resistant. Moderate shedding that is less impactful with regular brushing. Coats come in golden, black and chocolate colour variances. Size And Weight 55 to 64 cm to the shoulder and can weigh anywhere between 25 to 37 kgs as adults depending on the sex. Our breeding process is carefully planned and executed with the utmost care and dedication. We prioritize the health and well-being of our parent dogs, ensuring they undergo comprehensive health screenings to minimize the risk of hereditary conditions. This commitment to responsible breeding allows us to produce Labrador Retriever puppies that are not only physically healthy but also mentally and emotionally well-balanced. We believe in transparency and open communication with our clients. We are always available to answer any questions you may have and provide guidance throughout the entire adoption process. When you bring a Labrador Retriever puppy from Designer K9 Breeders into your life, you can expect ongoing support and resources to ensure a smooth transition and a lifetime of happiness.

Unique Tips For Choosing The Best Name For Your Golden Retriever You are probably wondering what are some good names for a golden retriever and is there any way of narrowing the list of several names to a manageable few. Here are some quick tips on how to choose the best name for your golden retriever: Use Personal Names: Naming your dog is important since this is the name you will have to live with for a long time. Hence, it is a good idea to consider names you have heard and already like. Instead, take some time to research different names and meanings; you will know when you find the right one. Ask For Advice: Talk with your family and friends and see what name they would give to your dog. You may get inspired or end up liking the names they have suggested. So, spend more time with your new puppy and get to know them better. Listen To Yourself: The right name will feel the best right from the start. Most golden retriever names are short and sweet, mainly because shorter names are easier to pronounce and for a dog to learn and remember. While not impossible, it can be a bit tricky for dogs to learn long names with a lot of syllables. A good name for a male golden retriever is short and easy to pronounce so your dog can learn quickly. Nevertheless, it is up to you to pick and decide which name is best suited for your dog based on your preferences. There are many cool dog names you can give to your golden retriever, just make sure that both you and your pooch are fans of a particular name. If you have a hard time picking just one of several names, say them one at a time to your pup and see which one gets their attention. There is no shortage of cute golden retriever names that can be a perfect moniker for your adorable pooch. Whichever name you decide to choose, make sure you can pronounce it easily and that you can call it out quickly. There is a wide selection of male and female golden retriever names to choose from, so I broke them up for you into: The top names for this year Brave and loyal golden retriever names Hunting and tracking inspired names Cute names for golden retrievers Take your time to read through all the names; you will know when you find the best one for your golden retriever. You May Also Like. Final Thoughts Congratulations on adding a Golden Retriever to your family. These friendly pups make fantastic pets. Just be sure they receive adequate exercise and stimulation to help positively release their energy. A trained Golden Retriever can do amazing things, like serve as a companion dog. Enjoy your new pet, and good luck finding a name! More Dog Name Ideas Another great place for dog names is our online generator. It lets you pick your favorite name styles or themes and then generates a list of ideas tailored to you and your dog. Style options include cute, funny, tough, elegant, and more. The themes span everything from movies, TVs, books and comics, to history, food, music, and so on. Is the name easy to say? Sure, some names look good on paper, but in real life they could be quite tough to say. Before you lock in on a name, say it a few times to ensure it rolls off the tongue. Is it right for your dog? Say it out loud a few times. Was it easy to say out loud? Can you imagine loudly calling for your furry friend with this name? Trust your gut! Share this post:.

June 30, We love our Frenchies like family, but they can be hard to shop for when it comes to finding the right collar. On average, a French Bulldog will fit in a size small collar, but each one is different. Your Frenchie may not have the same neck size as another one because their breed tends to vary in size. Many owners start out with a small collar and work their way up if needed. This list of tips and tricks can help you find the right French Bulldog collar size and avoid unnecessary purchasing so you get it right the first time. Dangers of not having the right size collar Not having the right size collar for your Frenchie can be dangerous for multiple reasons. First, your dog will be more likely to escape from you if they have a loose-fitting collar. Escaping is not a risk we take lightly as it puts them at danger. So, be sure to get the right size collar. However, escaping is not the only risk we have to worry about when it comes to getting the wrong size collar for our dog. There are many ways that we can harm them or they can harm themselves by not getting them the proper size collar. If there is too much room between their skin and the collar, then you are putting them at risk for getting their collar stuck in places. There are other bodily injuries to consider with a collar that is too large. Your dog can get their leg stuck in their leash when they scratch if it is too loose. This may seem redundant, but it could be dangerous depending on how they react. In their reaction to having a leg trapped might put them at greater harm. The collar can even get stuck in their mouth if it is too loose which can cause choking or mouth damage. Collar Irritation Having a collar that is too tight can cause skin irritation. Anything being tight on their skin can affect hair growth which can cause irritation and even skin infections. A collar that is too tight may even cause hair loss in the spot their collar rests. Either way, having a collar that is too tight can very easily cause skin issues. So, it is best to try to avoid this by getting the right size. Collar Choking Hazards To Be Aware Of Collars that are too loose can be a choking hazard, but the same goes for collars that are too tight. If their collar is too tight and there is any extra tightness from pulling, then your dog is far more likely to choke or possibly develop breathing issues. If they are constantly scratching their neck with their hind leg it might be an indication that it is too tight. To do this, be sure to measure just above their shoulders where the collar should sit. In order to get an accurate measure, make sure your dog is standing on a flat surface. If your dog is laying down or standing on uneven pavement, then you may not get an accurate measurement. Using treats can help encourage your furry friend stand at attention and make it easier to get a measurement. So, consider using a cord from a phone charger or something similar. Gently wrap the cord around their neck, keeping your fingers locked in place for accurate measuring. Another alternative that I happened to have in my house due to my interest in fitness was a Myotape measure. It is especially useful in measuring progress in my weight loss journey but I found it also worked very well to get an accurate neck measurement on my Frenchie. Then, simply measure the wire distance between your fingers. This will allow you to get an accurate measurement with little effort and keep your dog comfortable. Puppies are different from adult dogs in the way that they are far less patient. This can make a collar difficult to use. Protecting your pooch is the number one priority. Before they are trained , puppies are more likely to pull on their lead while they are in training. So, using a collar can be a risk because they may damage their trachea or irritate their skin by pulling on a collar too much. Some people consider harnesses for puppies, but they tend to not respond well to them due to discomfort. So, a collar may be best for you puppy, just remember to be patient while they learn. The right French Bulldog puppy collar size is going to depend on your dog, but most younger puppies are safe with an extra small , while older puppies can fit better into a small. It should not be too tight for you to fit both fingers, nor should it be loose enough that you can fit your whole hand in there. Two fingers is the best way to judge the fit. Finding the right French Bulldog collar size can be a challenge because their heads are quite small. With the wrong size collar, it may be all too easy for them to back out of a collar and run away. The right size collar will remain on their neck without choking them or making them uncomfortable. Tips for buying a collar For Your French Bulldog Beyond measuring and bringing your dog along, there are some other factors that can help with finding the right sized collar for your Frenchie. There are many different collar options out there to choose from, and you want to make sure you find just the right one. Adjustable collars are great for French Bulldogs because their sizes can vary so vastly. So, try your best to find an adjustable collar to make your life a little easier. Make sure you pay attention to the fabric of the collar you are buying Frenchies tend to be prone to allergies. So, your furry friend may have a bad reaction to certain fabrics. Keep this is mind when buying a new collar and keep an eye on your dog for the first few days they are wearing a new collar. This is the best way to ensure that any allergic reaction is caught quickly. Be aware of breathing issues Finally, just remember that French Bulldogs are prone to breathing issues and allergy issues. So, take your time finding the right collar for your Frenchie and keep their safety and comfort first. So, follow our guide for finding the right collar size. Remember that while most Frenchies are going to wear a size small, the size may vary based on your dog and how the collar is made. Be sure to measure their neck if you can in order to get the best possible fit. Adjustable collars are probably going to be best for Frenchies because it allows you to have some leeway in sizing issues. Maybe a small collar is a little too tight on your dog. Finally, just make sure that your dog is comfortable. Maybe they would do better with a thicker collar or even a harness. No matter what type of collar you choose for your French Bulldog, just make sure they are not having any reactions to the material or tightness of it. A leash that is too loose can be a choking hazard or a way for them to escape. A leash that is too tight can lead to issues with breathing and even hair loss and skin irritation. So, keep your eyes and ears open for signs of discomfort or irritation. PS -For other French Bulldog accessories take a look here. Share on facebook. So you need to measure them and then determine the size of the collar required. If you own a French Bulldog , you must have noticed they have stocky necks. This serves as a crucial aspect while determining what size collar for French Bulldog puppy you need. But first, you should understand why they have a different type of neck. The reason for the strong neck lies in the history of French bullies. There they met the two favorites of England: Terriers and Pugs. The crossover of these breeds led to the current strong necks of French Bulldogs. Therefore, you must take special care while buying them collars. It is of utmost importance to consider their comfort. Otherwise, they will get irritated with the wrong collar. Thus, they end up creating one of these two problems for their four-legged friend. So there will be no use in putting up a collar. In case you somehow manage to fit it in, it will irritate your dog. Eventually, you will have to take it out. The only way to avoid these issues is by following the size guidelines. Once you have got your answer to what size collar for French Bulldog puppy needs, the next step is to check the other factors. A few more things you need to consider are: Material You must know that French Bulldogs are sensitive creatures. Therefore, putting the wrong material collar around their neck can lead to allergies. Real leathers are usually the safest for them. Even if you pick some other material, remember to check for any side effects after they wear it. The type of collar you are picking also plays an important role. French Bullies have flat faces and short heads. By keeping these factors and the size in mind, you can get your French Bulldog a suitable collar. Should You Consider Harness? Conclusion Understanding the Importance of Neck Size The neck size of a French Bulldog is not just a superficial consideration; it directly impacts their comfort, health, and well-being. Choosing a suitable collar or harness that fits correctly is crucial for their overall happiness and safety. An ill-fitting or tight collar can cause discomfort and chafing around the neck area, leading to skin irritation or even sores. Moreover, it can restrict their movements and make it difficult for them to breathe correctly. French Bulldogs, like many brachycephalic breeds , already have a compromised respiratory system due to their unique facial structure. Wearing a too tight collar can further impede their breathing, exacerbating any existing respiratory challenges. In addition to discomfort and breathing difficulties, an incorrectly fitted collar can pose a risk of potential injuries. If the collar is too loose, your Frenchie may easily slip out, increasing the chances of them getting lost or injured while roaming free. Conversely, if the collar is too tight, it can put excessive pressure on the neck, potentially causing strain, injury, or even damage to the trachea. Look for options that provide a snug yet comfortable fit, allowing enough room for your Frenchie to breathe and move freely. Consider opting for collars or harnesses made from soft, padded materials to minimize discomfort or rubbing against their delicate skin. Quick-release buckles are another beneficial feature, enabling you to remove the collar or harness swiftly in case of emergencies. Remember, the right fit is key. If your Frenchie experiences weight fluctuations, ensure that their neckwear remains appropriately adjusted to prevent discomfort or potential hazards. Factors Affecting French Bulldog Neck Sizes French Bulldog The neck size of a French Bulldog can vary significantly due to various factors such as age, genetics, gender, and overall body structure. Owners must recognize that there is no universal, one-size-fits-all answer when it comes to the average neck size of Frenchies. However, understanding these variables can provide valuable insights and help you estimate the average neck size for your furry companion. Age: As French Bulldogs grow from puppies to adults, their neck size will naturally increase. It is essential to regularly measure their neck size during their growth stages to ensure proper fitting collars or harnesses at each phase. Genetics: Like any other physical attribute, the neck size of a French Bulldog can be influenced by genetics. Different bloodlines and breeding variations may contribute to variations in neck size among individual Frenchies. Gender: In some cases, there may be subtle differences in neck size between male and female French Bulldogs. However, this difference is typically minimal and should be a minor factor when determining the average neck size. Here are approximate average neck sizes for French Bulldogs at different stages of life: French Bulldog Puppies weeks : The average neck size for puppies in this age range typically ranges from 8 to 12 inches 20 to 30 cm. However, measuring your specific Frenchie puppy is crucial to ensure an accurate fit. Adult French Bulldogs 1 year and older : On average, adult French Bulldogs typically have neck sizes ranging from 12 to 16 inches 30 to 40 cm. However, keep in mind that there can be variations in neck size among adult Frenchies. Soft measuring tapes, typically used for sewing or tailoring, work best for this purpose. Prepare your Frenchie: Ensure that your French Bulldog is calm and relaxed before proceeding with the measurement. This will help you get a more accurate reading. This is the area you want to measure. Wrap the measuring tape: Gently wrap the measuring tape around the base of the neck, ensuring it is snug but not too tight. The tape should be positioned just above the shoulders and comfortably around the neck. Take the measurement: Once the tape is in place, note the measurement in inches or centimeters. Ensure that the measurement is taken with the tape level and parallel to the ground to avoid any inaccuracies. This measurement will be a reliable reference point for selecting the suitable collar or harness size, ensuring a comfortable fit for your furry friend. French Bulldog puppies undergo rapid development during their early months, including an increase in neck size. As their bodies grow, their necks will also proportionally grow in size. To ensure the comfort and safety of your Frenchie puppy, it is crucial to regularly measure their neck size and adjust their collars and harnesses accordingly. If their neckwear becomes too tight or restrictive, it can cause discomfort, difficulty breathing, or even pose a risk of injury. Comfort and movement: Puppies are full of energy and love to explore their surroundings. Wearing a properly fitted collar or harness ensures that they can move freely, play, and explore comfortably without any restrictions. Regularly measuring their neck size and adjusting their accessories can mitigate these risks and provide a secure fit. As your French Bulldog puppy grows, please continue to monitor their neck size and adjust their collars or harnesses accordingly. Frenchie Neck Size Tips for Breathing and Health French Bulldog French Bulldogs, along with other brachycephalic breeds, have a unique facial structure that can result in respiratory challenges. Their shortened snouts and compact airways make it more difficult for them to breathe compared to breeds with longer muzzles. As such, it is crucial to consider their respiratory health when selecting collars or harnesses. Special considerations for exercise: French Bulldogs may have limitations during physical activity due to their respiratory challenges. Managing respiratory issues: Some French Bulldogs may already have pre-existing respiratory conditions. A veterinarian can offer specific advice on managing these conditions and recommend collar or harness options that provide optimal support without compromising their respiratory health. This expert guidance will help you select accessories that minimize the risk of breathing restrictions and provide your Frenchie with the comfort they need. Here are some key considerations and recommendations: Choose products designed for brachycephalic breeds: Look for collars or harnesses specifically designed to accommodate the needs of brachycephalic dogs like French Bulldogs. These products are typically crafted with their unique anatomy in mind and aim to minimize discomfort or breathing restrictions. Wide bands distribute pressure more evenly and reduce the risk of choking or causing discomfort. Seek padded materials: Collars or harnesses with padding offer additional comfort and help prevent irritation or chafing. Look for quick-release buckles: Quick-release buckles are an essential safety feature. They allow you to easily and quickly remove the collar or harness in an emergency or if your Frenchie becomes entangled in something. This ensures that you can promptly free your pup without causing any harm. Consider using harnesses: Harnesses can be an excellent choice for French Bulldogs due to their ability to distribute pressure more evenly across the chest and shoulders, reducing strain on the neck. This can be particularly beneficial for Frenchies with respiratory challenges or neck sensitivity. Remember to choose flexible options with wide bands, padded materials, and quick-release buckles. If appropriate, consider using a harness to provide additional support and reduce strain on their neck. Ill-fitting neckwear can lead to discomfort, potential injury, or even escape. Place the tape snugly around the base of their neck, where the collar typically rests. Ensure it is neither too tight nor loose, allowing your Frenchie to breathe comfortably. Avoid overly tight collars: Collars that are too tight can cause discomfort, restrict breathing, and potentially lead to injury. Select a collar size that provides a secure fit without causing discomfort or constriction. Prevent loose collars: Loose collars risk slipping off or getting caught on objects, potentially leading to accidents or escapes. Over time, collars may stretch or become worn, so inspecting and adjusting as needed is necessary. Adjustments for growth and weight fluctuations: French Bulldogs, especially puppies, experience growth spurts and potential weight fluctuations. Periodically reassess their neck size and adjust the collar or harness to ensure a comfortable and secure fit. These precautions will help ensure their safety, prevent escape, and promote a positive and enjoyable experience during walks and other activities. Email address: Leave this field empty if you're human: Popular Posts. Add another two inches to the total length and this will give you the ideal length of the collar. Depending on the type of bulldog you own, neck measurements can vary greatly. Both French and English bulldogs are generally friendly, intelligent, and loyal, but they do have certain differences. While French bulldogs are more outgoing, full of energy, and enjoy cuddling, they are often independent and stubborn. English bulldogs, on the other hand, tend to be more reserved and calmer. If your dog is calm and more obedient, you can get a standard nylon or leather Bulldog collar. Martingales may be more ideal if your dog is aggressive or likes to pull, and is in the training process. Martingale collars are more comfortable and less harmful than choke collars, while still giving the owner more control. Best Collar for English Bulldog The best British bulldog collars to get for your English bulldog will be a bit larger, with neck sizes somewhere between 15 to 22 inches. The type of collar you decide to get will be the same you would get for a French bulldog, depending on temperament. Standard or martingale collars could be the best choices based on aggression level or general energy levels. Take a look at our full selection here and shop with us today. Sign up for Doggie Deals By signing up, you will receive an email every week with new deals only for Mimi's Doggie Deals subscribers. We believe that your dog is a reflection of yourself. We believe that you have really great taste. Learn About. Pin1 1 Shares When we first got Claude the puppy, we were in the local pet store searching for the right sized collar. That gave me the inspiration to put this guide to French Bulldog neck sizes together which explains how you can measure your dog up, and some rough guidance to what the best French Bulldog collar size will be for your dog. French Bulldog neck size for collars What size neck does a French Bulldog have? French Bulldogs typically very short and stocky necks with a thick circumference. How to measure a French Bulldog neck for a collar by using a measuring tape. Handy Hint: Most pet suppliers offer extra small and small collars. For adult Frenchies I would recommend small collar sizes and for French Bulldog puppies from 8 weeks and up I would recommend the extra small collar sizes. What size collar for a French Bulldog puppy? Frenchies come in different shapes and sizes, with their sometimes being big differences between male and female puppies. French Bulldog puppy collar sizes Here is some very rough guidance on what size collar is best for a French Bulldog puppy from 8 weeks of age and up. So, one of the best ways to select the right collar is to measure their neck. This can be done using the steps below: Firstly, you will need to get your dog to stand on a flat surface. Having treats to hand might be a good idea! The withers are the point where the neck and the back join which is just above the shoulder blade. Be sure not to pull the tape measure too tight or let it hang too loose. Now that you know the precise measurements of your Frenchie you are now able to compare these with the ranges that collar sizes are available in to ensure that you are buying the right size. What to consider when buying French Bulldog collars Buying a collar for a French Bulldog is totally different from buying a collar for any other dog. Think of breeds such as Pugs, Chihuahuas and of course our beloved Frenchies. Due to this, collars need to ensure that they are anti-choke collars and are neck friendly. Another thing to consider is the material that the collar is made from. Collars are a great alternative for Frenchies that are not comfortable in a harness. If your dog is able to walk on the lead without pulling, this may be a better solution. Some experts are of the opinion that to train your French Bulldog effectively you must have both a collar and a harness and we completely agree. The question that should be asked is when collars and harnesses should be used independently. Collars can place added pressure onto the neck and potentially lead to choking. I know of one owner who used a cat harness on their 8-week-old Frenchie puppy instead of a collar for this very reason. Why choose a collar? Puppies: puppies tend to dislike harnesses as they make them feel uncomfortable. As with everything there are certain pros and cons to using collars and they are listed below: Pros to collars They tend to be the most comfortable for the dog and so can be worn for longer during the day. This makes them ideal for identification purposes. There tends to be a wider variety of collars in different materials, styles and comforts. Easy to put on and take off. Cons to collars Depending on how well the collar is fitted it is possible for the dog to slip out of it. Using collars on brachycephalic breeds like French Bulldogs, they are prone to thyroid and trachea damage if they excessively pull when they are on the lead. There is a possibility that collars can get caught and suffocate dogs. It is advised that dogs do not wear their collars when unattended in the home. Which collar I recommend for a Frenchie The collar we use with Claude for every day use is this one on Amazon view prices. This one here is adjustable, so should work with your puppy and then you can upgrade into the later years. You can buy it in size ranges from extra small through to small. Why choose a harness? Longer walks: when you plan on taking your dog for a longer walk it may be better to fit them with a harness as this will evenly spread the pressure should they pull on their lead. Training purposes: puppies are highly distracted when they are young. Anything will make them excited and they may pull on their lead regardless of the pressure they are feeling round their neck with a collar. Using a harness will provide more control over your puppy. Although seemingly preferred by many French Bulldog owners, there are still pros and cons to the harness and they are listed below: Pros to harnesses Less pull stress with a harness as the pressure is evenly distributed around the body. Better control over your dog whilst walking. Reduces risk of neck injuries that collars may cause. A harness will not choke the dog if it were to get caught. Front clip harnesses can cause tracheal issues. Front hook harnesses can cause discomfort if not fitted properly. No matter what your preference of collar or harness, it is important to understand the differences between them and when both may be useful to you. For the best results it is always best to get both a collar and a harness so you are covered for all circumstances. Which harness I recommend for a Frenchie The one we use with Claude on longer walks out into the forest is this one on Amazon view prices. The previous harness we had was really tricky to get on and off Claude, but not with this one. Why Frenchies have stocky neck sizes Originally bred in England as a smaller version of the English Bulldog, French Bulldogs were introduced into France when they made their travels with their people across the English Channel. There, the breed was crossed with terriers and pugs to become what we know and love today! You can read more about the history here. This mix of breeds resulted in very strong and thick necks. If you own a Frenchie, you will know exactly what I mean! As you can see with our Claude photos, his is actually bigger than the average and so he tends to wear a larger collar. The best advice I can give you is to do what we did in the end and actually take your Frenchie puppy or dog into the pet store and let them test out a few collar and harness variations in store. However, if you already know the neck size and have measured your puppy up, you can scroll up to find a few recommendations on the best collars and harnesses currently available on the market.

One or both of this puppy's parents have undergone genetic testing. One or both of this puppy's parents are hip certified. The sad truth is that many pet store purchased pups actually come from puppy mills. Basically, there is zero authenticity with pet stores. When it comes to adopting any animal from a pet store, there is an increased risk of unforeseen health or genetic problems. You also cultivate a life-long relationship with the breeder, meaning support is available to you anytime you may need it. With My Golden Retriever Puppies , you have the option to come and visit both the puppy and the breeder in person! Golden Retrievers are an adaptable breed, meaning they are better at adapting to seasonal changes and various types of climate than certain other breeds. Goldens sport a double-coat, which ensures that these sweet pups are able to tolerate slightly colder temperatures than their friends from other breeds. Your pup deserves better than that, which is why here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we ensure high-quality care is taken of your pet at all times. We even have all types of golden retrievers for sale! At My Golden Retriever Puppies, we pride ourselves on our golden retriever price being fair and affordable for high quality puppies. Location Information for Albuquerque Customers Our home office is located in Ohio, but we understand that long-distance travel can be inconvenient. If you prefer to meet a breeder in person, they may be able to offer private visits at their home. Of course! Here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we value family and authenticity, which is why we always guarantee our pups through our 2-year genetic health guarantee. Like adopting a Golden Retriever from a pet store, there is an increased risk when adopting a pup from a rescue center or shelter as well. For example, pups purchased through a shelter or rescue center are far less likely to come with the kinds of health guarantees and reassurances that a breeder can provide. What type of Golden Retrievers are sold in Albuquerque? We have some good news! Ready to make your Golden Retriever dreams come true? Take a look at our convenient list of available puppies. How do I know which breeders to trust in Albuquerque? Our independent network of trusted breeders have already been pre-screened and verified, so that you can focus on what really matters: choosing your dream puppy. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Golden Retriever Rescue of New Mexico is a c 3 nonprofit. We have been in business for more than 25 years and have successfully placed more than Goldens. We are here to help dogs find loving homes and to help you find a perfect match. We work hard to make sure that you have a dog that suits your family and your lifestyle. Here is the process for getting a dog: Fill out our adoption application by clicking here. The application system is very reliable. Your application goes straight into a spreadsheet that we use to consider what dogs might be good for you. You will receive a confirmation when your application posts to the database. Join our email list to hear about our dogs. The signup is near the bottom of the page. We use the list to let people know about new dogs. If you are interested in a dog posted on the list, come check the website for a photo and description and then email. What matters is whether the family is right for the dog. Check to see currently available dogs. Click on the link to the right that says Dogs to see who is ready for a home. We may have dogs that are not yet posted on the site. They are learning social skills, or waiting for spay and neuter surgery, and they are in the evaluation phase where we learn their temperaments and personalities. It is hard to say what dogs we will have a given time. We do have a long waiting list. Adoptions are done by considering the best match for the dog and the family, so where you are on the list numerically is not what counts. Please note that the listing may indicate our having 3 dogs, but the software is counting these paragraphs. This is not fancy, nor endowed. We rely on the generosity of your donations. This is a small group of people who love working together. We collaborate in scouting the state for Goldens, in providing transportation, in doing daily care that means feeding everyone and picking up the poops , fostering, rehab, socializing, training, vet care, assessment, matchmaking, and devotion. The dogs come in hurt, scared, sick, fat, skinny, neurotic, phobic, anxious, no haired, massive haired, lost, confused, not knowing what to do or be. And we heal them, love them, socialize them, get them healthy and figure out the very best home for them. We do have a waiting list. We place dogs by match rather than your place in line. The more information you provide in your application, the better we can match. What we care most about is your ability to provide a loving home suited for your dog. Be honest and share as much as you can about the particularities of your household. If you really want a couch potato, tell us. If you love seniors or dogs with special needs, tell us. If you run 5 miles a day and want a triathlete to run with you, tell us that too. Please join our email list. When I put up a new dog, I also send a notice to the email list. Subscribe to our group We are always looking for foster homes. Foster parents have first priority in adopting dogs so you might want to consider fostering while you are waiting for your doggie to arrive. Generally speaking, we do not place dogs out of state. If you have not submitted an application, we will not talk to you about a specific dog. We have answers. At Uptown Puppies, discovering the perfect Golden Retriever for sale in Albuquerque is an absolute breeze! Simply browse our extensive nationwide listings of pups, select your favorite, and then notify the breeder or business of your interest. Why is Uptown Puppies different from other places? Uptown Puppies is different because it simply offers more benefits than its competitors - more transparency, more safety, more healthy and happy pups to choose from, etc. We operate a nationwide network of vetted breeders and businesses that makes finding your perfect canine as easy as possible - no matter where you are in the country. With us, you can find a new Golden Retriever for sale Albuquerque without hassle or worry! Are Golden Retriever puppies for sale in Albuquerque ready now? Absolutely - but not for long! Golden Retrievers for sale in Albuquerque are one of the most popular breeds in the world and their litters tend to vanish almost as quickly as they arrive. We recommend contacting the breeder or business as soon as possible - or you might miss out on bringing home a furry bundle of joy! How does Uptown Puppies view transparency when it comes to breeding Golden Retriever puppies Albuquerque? Ethical breeders can be tough to find regardless of where you live. We work exclusively with a network of rigorously vetted Golden Retriever breeders Albuquerque and businesses — giving you the peace of mind you need to find the perfect pup you want. Do you sell the cheapest Golden Retriever puppies in Albuquerque? We combat these awful practices by offering a fully transparent boutique experience - allowing buyers to work with humane breeders and businesses to find the perfect happy and healthy doggo! How do I know that my puppy will be healthy? Is it enough to walk Golden Retriever puppies for sale Albuquerque, or do they need more exercise? Like people, most dogs require consistent exercise to remain physically fit and mentally sharp - and the Albuquerque Golden Retrievers for sale are no exception! In fact, these active doggos can run more than most and should be given some extra time to exercise outdoors every day. Otherwise, they might begin to misbehave and cause mischief! Do you recommend specific food for my dog? Golden Retrievers for sale Albuquerque are true pros when it comes to gobbling down food! Otherwise, most reliable name-brand food will offer an ideal dose of nutrients. Additionally, canned foods that contain various meats and vegetables are also ideal and will keep your pup happy, fit, and ready to play! Which kinds of breeds are best for families? Very few dogs - if any - are as friendly and people-oriented as the Golden Retriever Albuquerque. This breed was bred to work alongside humans and possesses an innate love for them as a result. Introduce one of these social butterflies to the family and prepare to fall in love immediately! What are some of the most intelligent and easy to train breeds? Teach your doggos new tricks and commands and watch in awe as it learns them with ease!

Imagine you could come home to a lovable, dedicated, companion for life! If you knew what to look for when buying a German Shepherd puppy, you could find your next best friend. Before you buy your new best friend, read this information so you know what to look for in buying a healthy, quality German Shepherd puppy. I group them into major categories. Will you show him in conformation? Do you want to work with him in Schutzhund or herding? Or do you want a confident and alert companion? Know exactly what you want from your puppy. These dogs are the least costly since they have a trait that prevents them from winning in conformation competitions. These flaws rarely matter to most pet owners. And many minor faults like flat withers or slightly smaller offset ears will probably go unnoticed by most owners. The vast majority of GSDs are family pets. These dogs make great pets as long as they have sound temperaments! They breed some dogs for certain traits that are highly desirable but considered a fault. For example, long-coat or plush-coat GSDs. Show-quality dogs have good temperament and health. You usually buy them for their breed standard qualities that make them able to compete in confirmation or show events. A show-quality dog may cost significantly more if they have the traits desirable to win at a show. This group comes from Championship show lines with a long history of winning. If you plan on showing your Shepherd this is the quality you want. Beware of any breeder who claims they only raise competition-quality dogs. Even the best breeders produce many pet-quality dogs and if a breeder says they only breed perfect dogs, this is a red flag to not buy from them. The GSD is a herding breed, and the working-quality dogs excel at working trials such as scent competitions and Schutzhund. Other work includes climbing and jumping competitions or searching and tracking. They need mental stimulation to keep them occupied and take a lot of time to handle properly. These dogs are better with experienced handlers since you use them for high drive working and competition. They require hours and years of training and preparation for you to have total control during competition. We base this decision on preference. With the correct upbringing and training, both sexes are loyal companions and good with children. They may grow into more dominant dogs, so a confident handler is more desirable. Males may hike their back legs to mark their territory. This can occur on any object — chairs, walls, couches or even your leg. I suggest an extra bout of socialization during this stage, especially with other well-behaved dogs. So they may be better for the first-time owner. Unspayed females come into season every 6 months, so they must receive monitoring and watch to avoid unwanted pregnancies. Their season time can vary from as little as every 4 months to every 9 months. They can attract males to your property and on walks that will harass them if not spayed. Certain breeders and organizations will deal only in a certain coat length and color. The standard coat length is a short coat with double layers. Guard hairs on the top cover a softer underlayer of hair that provides warmth and protection. But there are many coat lengths available depending on your liking. Look online at the different GSD coat lengths to get an idea of what type of fur you want your dog to have. The longer the fur the more grooming involved. The color you choose is a matter of individual taste. Keep in mind the color of many Shepherds alters from their puppyhood to around 2 years of age. Your dog may become lighter or darker. Perhaps they will lose some of their markings as the color fades into the adult pattern. The best way to know what color and patterns your dog grows into is to see the parents of the litter. If the father is unavailable, then ask for photos. Why should you care where your dog comes from if you only want him as a pet companion? You want to get a dog that will live a long and healthy life from a source that has quality puppies. These tips will help you make the best decision on what type of pup fits in your life. Newspaper and Internet Classified Ads Newspaper and internet ads are in abundance. Many backyard breeders hide behind ads online or in local papers. But some breeders who use newspapers and classified ads are reputable and knowledgeable. The problem is you need to visit them to find out, and this can take time to sift through them all. Try the following more reputable suggestions to save yourself time. Dog Care Professionals Ask dog professionals for recommendations. Check with your local veterinarian, groomer, and boarding kennel personnel if they know reputable breeders in town. These professionals are good sources of quality leads. Use the same caution that you will for a classified ad. Verify their suggestions. Many of these organizations regularly receive puppies they need to re-home. While you might not know the full pedigree of the dog, purebred GSDs find themselves in shelters and rescues from no fault of their own. These organizations are a good resource for your first pup. Before adopting, find out as much information as you can. Was the puppy exposed to children? Did he live with other dogs or cats? A well-organized shelter or rescue helps you choose a German Shepherd match for your lifestyle. Start with looking online for GSD rescues and local shelters. Dog Clubs Dog clubs are local and national. These groups put you into contact with registered breeders through their own programs. They can give you the name of the GSD club contact closest to you for breed contacts. Dog clubs also have dog shows open to the public. This is a good time to watch the breed in action and to ask around for quality breeders. While using a dog club to connect you with a reputable breeder is not the only choice, it is one of the more reliable. If you are using a breeder to choose your German Shepherd puppy, this section will help you know the good from the bad. Use these tips to stay safe. Are selling overpriced or under-priced dogs. Lie to you and say you can make money off your new puppy by breeding them, despite them having flaws. Tells you that the GSD is a dog for everyone, with no disadvantages. Breeds multiple types of dogs and claims to be an expert on them all. If a breeder lets their mothers get pregnant more than once a year, this affects the quality of the puppies, so ask how many litters the mother has. These breeders selling unhealthy puppies also will refuse to take bag their dogs if you need to return them for any reason and have no contracts. They have healthy puppies and will answer your questions and have you make multiple visits. Openly show you where the mother and pups spend their time, including their garden or yard. Tells you the up and downs of owning the breed. Have all pedigree and vet paperwork on hand for your review. Specializes in breeding only GSDs source. They openly share this information with you. They have screened their dogs for health issues and can confirm this with documentation which they proudly give you a copy. Healthy mothers are given rest from breeding, and a reputable breeder gives their mothers time off from reproduction. Ask if your breeder if they are willing to take back their dogs if you cannot keep them, as this is standard for a quality breeder with a good reputation. Make sure your breeder has a written contract with detailed information and health guarantees. These are expected for safe breeding practices. How to Buy a German Shepherd Puppy Following this guide gives you the best chance of buying a German Shepherd puppy that suits your lifestyle. Know what you want from your GSD and where to find quality dogs. Learn what to look for when buying a German Shepherd puppy to stay safe from a sick pup and a bad breeder. German Shepherds have their own unique set of challenges. They are a large, active, and intelligent breed that requires an understanding owner who is willing to train their GSD using positive techniques. Devote yourself to their overall health to see the best results and help give you and your dog a lifetime of happiness. Remember, your pup will need mental stimulation to keep their brain active , a gentle exercise program , and need daily love and affection. Buying a German Shepherd puppy is a choice for your whole life that will bring you many years of joy and excitement! Found this helpful? Share it! She has a Bachelor of Science degree, with Honors, and has been training dogs for over a decade. Related Posts. Check with local veterinarians' offices, animal shelters, pet supply stores, and other area pet business for referrals to dog rescue organizations in your area. Contact one local dog rescue group for referral to other area groups. Some dog rescue groups work with all dogs, while others are breed-specific. Most rescues groups have established networks with other area rescues. The organization's website also provides links to rescue organizations. Although the majority of dogs looking for new homes through rescue groups are adults, sometimes rescue groups have puppies to place. Most German Shepherds looking for homes through rescue groups do not have papers. If registering your puppy is important, or if you intend to enter it into competitions, you will need its title papers and health records, so a rescued dog may not be right for you. Many dog rescues will require a thorough application process in order to assure that you will be a good fit for the dog. Be prepared to disclose your address and whether you own your home, as well as your employment status and your philosophy when it comes to raising a dog. You will want to make sure that the dog's temperament works well with you and your family. Ask whether you can get the dog checked out by your veterinarian. You will want your vet to check the dog's general health and for serious conditions, such as heart murmurs. Be sure to ask about the dog's health while the rescue has had it and if it is up to date on shots and healthcare. A good rescue should actually offer this information upfront. Get a history of the dog's healthcare up to that point. Has it had its first vaccination, had heart worm treatment, and parasite control? These should have all been done before the age when a puppy is adoptable. While many rescue organizations cannot tell you much about the dogs they place, because the dogs have been rescued off the street or they have been given up anonymously, sometimes they have a bit of information. Get all the information you can about the dog's past so that you can assess their general background and health. Dog rescue organizations are usually run on a shoe-string budget. While they depend mostly on volunteers, they do need funds to transport and care for dogs. Your adoption fee will most likely help to pay for the rescue of other dogs in the future. May not even be aware of the breed standard. Breeds to any convenient dog. Strives towards the ideal. Often helps to define it. Does not need to promote establishment; sells to brokers, pet shops, etc. Often rescues only to attain more stock. Rarely attends shows or trials. Shows and trials to objectively test breeding stock. Often judges, provides seminars, writes articles, and willingly mentors serious Hobby Breeders. Knowledge Often pretends to know some. May share false or incomplete information. Studies continuously. Impacts the breed for many decades with knowledge of dogs over many generations. All pups sold have full breeding rights. Yes, and diligently follows up on progeny. Keeps up with health and temperament issues affecting the breeding and provides in-depth guarantees No need to; mostly supplies brokers and pet shops. Meets minimum standards as required by state law. May refuse to acknowledge most problems. Maintains a solid support system — accepts full responsibility for every puppy produced. Performs health testing for all breeding stock for genetic diseases affecting the particular breed. No interest, may offer papers as proof of quality. Papers alone are not proof of quality. No interest. May provide undocumented paperwork for appearances sake. Is unfamiliar with health testing usually statements of good health are stated to impress consumers. Intensive testing always a priority. Often initiates club sponsored seminars and clinics. Maintains records on all dogs in gene pool including progeny. Often supplies brokers and pet shops, records unavailable. Dogs and puppies are often auctioned off in lots, records unavailable. Focuses mostly on current dogs, no records or knowledge of genes. Attempts to continuously track every puppy produced. Bases entire breeding program on extensive gene pool data. Clean environment always maintained Minimum standards vary greatly in cleanliness. Minimum standards maintained for state inspections. Conditions may vary greatly depending on available income, usually makeshift accommodations. Clean, healthy and mentally stimulating environment. Expected longevity with any particular breed Will continue as long as the sales are coming. Depends on popularity of specific breeds. Unrealistic expectations — easily disillusioned. On a mission-plans to stay for the long haul. Health guarantee provided No, it cuts into profits. No health guarantee beyond proof of first set of vaccines, if that. Not qualified to give advice if a problem arises. Offers written guarantee and is available to answer questions to new owners. Good knowledge of history in dogs. Extensive knowledge of health history, offers replacements to owners of genetically affected dogs. Ability to meet the parents of the litter If available, may be in poor physical condition. If available, dogs are not used to contact with people. May or may not be well loved and cared for companions, often unwilling to show entire litter or parents to buyer. Shows friendly mother and entire litter in clean environment; stud dog too, if in residence. Helps buyer choose appropriate puppy. Can explain how breeding was planned to emphasize specific qualities and can speak at length about how puppies compare. What you can expect after purchase Nothing, may not be able to contact at all. No concern for dog after sale is final. Available for questions, and wants to keep in touch. Will take back dog or puppy at any time. After purchase will help with training and grooming, available for all questions and knows the answers. Price Priced according to market, but is marked up from original source for profit. Mid-range to move puppies quickly. High end of mid-range. Price will not reflect all that is invested. Use only physically sound, mature dogs of stable temperament for breeding. These characteristics are rarely, if ever, determined before the age of two for females. Continue to educate themselves regarding genetic diseases pertinent to the breed including, hip and elbow dysplasia. Documentation of hip and elbow screenings should be available to prospective puppy buyers. Apply the same high standards to outside bitches sent to their stud dogs as they apply to their own breeding stock. Temperament testing of a litter before puppies are offered for sale is encouraged. Take appropriate steps to have each puppy examined by a licensed veterinarian for general health prior to placement. Each puppy should be vaccinated and de-wormed by a veterinarian. Endeavor to gain personal knowledge of the temperament and health of every dog they breed, or to which they breed, in order to gather information on which to base future breeding decisions. They share this information fully and honestly with other breeders and with prospective buyers. Sell breeding prospects to knowledgeable, ethical and experienced persons or are willing to help educate and guide novices. Do not engage in misleading or untrue advertising and do not use GSDCA membership as a marketing tool. Do not sell, supply, donate or surrender any dog for which they are responsible to a pet shop, catalogue house, wholesale dealer in dogs, Humane Society or to a laboratory. They should have reasonable assurance that each individual receiving a dog will provide a home with appropriate shelter, restraint, control and responsible care. Encourage puppy buyers to go to puppy obedience classes to help their puppies to become better canine good citizens. The achievement of a Canine Good Citizen certificate should be encouraged. Since homeowners insurance and local laws vary greatly, a refusal to let you visit the kennels may not, in and of itself, be a bad sign. You should ask for and receive a satisfactory explanation. The puppies are not social or look sickly. How to read those ads. A few more things to look out for. Anyone can buy a puppy from a champion, but it does not mean that they have any other interest in the breed but to bank on the name and make money. Having a Champion in a pedigree is like having a billionaire relative. AKC registration does not guarantee quality. AKC papers are much like the title of a car; papers are issued to the junked Chevy on blocks in your yard just as easily as they are on a brand new, shiny Jaguar. AKC does not control breeding, approve litters, or guarantee temperaments. AKC Registration is automatic if you buy from a reputable breeder — they will provide all necessary paperwork when you buy a puppy. There are several groups that are registering dogs, even mixed breeds, for a fee. This registration means nothing, and is of no value to you. Are there too many defects for the animal to be bred? Shop with care. Rarely will a good breeder have the luck to own both dogs for the perfect litter. There are some good and very reasonable reasons to have both parents on site. However, you need to ask the right questions and understand why this is true. They might be, they might not. Are they too big to be cute anymore? Need more money? Is there a problem? Usually because there are more on the way. Be very wary of this one. Will a Breeder Ask Me Questions? Conscientious breeders want the best available home for their puppies. This determines the amount of time you will have available for your new addition. There are very important items that should be supplied by the breeder. Breeders will typically give you the following items: A signed pedigree A current Health Record; including de-wormings and vaccinations. American Kennel Club registration papers or application Sales contract. The type of contract varies and must be mutually agreeable to the breeder and buyer. Much depends on what you expect from the puppy show, pet, or performance. Feeding schedule including the type and amount of food. Copy of OFA certification of sire and dam, if available.

Some Final Words There are several steps to take to do this task just right. Here are those steps to follow if you are going to do this job yourself. Start from front to back, then move from head to toe. Look for any mats that need detangling or cut off. Remove those mats, once you find them, by cutting them off at the best spot possible. Be careful not to pull those mats as you will cause your toy poodle a little discomfort or pain. Or you can pull the mat away from their body and then brush it back in the direction of their skin. Start cutting their fur at the nape of their neck and move towards the back. The scissors should be in one hand while the other hand gently pulls the fur tight. You can try to have your pet roll over so you can cut their stomach hairs or put them in a little sling to hold them while you do that job. The ankles and legs should be done in the previous step. Focus on the hair between their toes. Now that most of their body is done, it is time to trim their face. You do not want to use sharp scissors here in case your hand slips or the dog moves suddenly. Cover their whole head and face at this time. Toy poodles should be groomed about every 6 to 8 weeks. This will help keep their coats under control. Also, if you like them to have longer fur, you should brush their fur about 3 to 4 times each day. A toy poodle should be trimmed about every 3 to 4 weeks when they are younger. Plus, you should wait about 3 to 4 months before giving them their first haircut. To keep the mats out, you should brush them regularly. Brushing often helps make their fur easier to cut. If you are going to give them a bath after their haircut, use a dog shampoo. Even baby shampoo does not have the right amount of PH balance for dog hair and skin. Long nails can cause your pet a little pain and a lot of discomforts. So, when you are trimming their fur, make time to trim their nails as well. Dogs are not like cats and do not need long sharp claws. Some Final Words Take the time to get your pet familiar with the scissors or razors you will be using to trim their fur. That way they will not fight as much and may stand still a lot longer for you. Take your time as you will only make a mess of things if you rush this job. If you rush, you may cut your pet and hurt them. Then they may be forever afraid of grooming time. This is an attitude you want to avoid at all costs. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. By Yvonne Villasenor Yvonne Villasenor is a freelance writer and animal lover who just so happens to be allergic to cats and dogs. That doesn't stop her from cuddling with them! When Yvonne's not working, you can find her lounging with her charming Chihuahuas, weightlifting, or wandering around Halloween stores. Having such unique and versatile fur means there are countless poodle haircuts for you to choose from, and a professional groomer can give your poodle a makeover with a hairstyle that best matches her personality and lifestyle. With so many options available, learn how your poodle can look like anything from a plush toy to elegant royalty! Teddy Bear Cut The teddy bear cut is a popular trim for poodles and other long-haired breeds. With this look, your poodle has longer hair on her face for a soft, rounded "teddy bear" appearance, and the rest of the fur on her body is cut at a shorter, uniform length throughout. Talk about cuddly cuteness! Summer Cut Because poodles have a single coat, they can enjoy the luxury that comes with it: the summer cut. Known as one of the most low-maintenance poodle haircuts, the summer cut is a practical haircut option that keeps your poodle's fur short so she stays comfortable in hot weather. So if you're looking to cut your hair to beat the heat in the summer, you and your poodle can rock shorter hairdos together! Puppy Cut No matter your poodle's age, you can seemingly turn back time with the puppy cut. Also a popular choice among poodle parents, the puppy cut is a simple, natural-looking trim that leaves your dog with an evenly cut length, typically 1 to 2 inches, all over. This is a highly modifiable look, so consult your groomer for a length that best fits your and your dog's preference and lifestyle. Continental Cut The continental cut is a glamorous and traditional hairstyle often worn by poodle show dogs. With this look, your poodle's face, throat, feet, and part of the tail are shaved. This look is characterized by full hair on the rib cage and chest, pom poms of fur on the tail, ankles, and hips, as well as a banded topknot on the head. German Trim Looking for a haircut that looks fancy but not too fancy? The German trim uses the power of angles to give your poodle a sharp profile. The hair on your furry friend's legs is left long, while the hair on the body and ears is cut short. This is a great option not only if your poodle is more active but also if your pup is prone to ear infections or ear matting. Modern Cut The modern cut is an elegant hairstyle that combines aesthetics with your poodle's natural features. This cut keeps the hair on the body short, accentuating your poodle's shape. The fur on the head, ears, and tail is left longer to create a fluffy appearance. When your dog has such curly, coarse locks, you may wonder how many trips to the groomer you and your poodle may be making. Poodles and poodle-crosses also go through a coat change in the first year of life, so they need to be groomed more often," says Danna Alexander, owner of Prestige Dog Grooming School. To keep mats and tangles at bay, it's best to brush your poodle at least two to three times a week. Toy poodle haircuts aren't off limits for miniature and standard poodles, just as standard poodle haircuts aren't off limits for miniature and toy poodles. While any poodle can sport any style, there may be common options you'd like to choose from. Because there are various names for different types of poodle haircuts, make sure to bring your groomer a photo of the haircut you'd love your pooch to have. Was this page helpful? Brushing is important for all dogs, but especially for poodles. Poodle hair can easily get matted together as the dog sheds, and for this reason, it is often recommended that poodles with long hair be brushed every day. Brushing once or twice every week is generally acceptable if the dog has shorter hair. Use a slicker brush to gently remove thick tangles and mats. It's important to remove mats whenever you find them, as they can pull at the skin, causing discomfort to your pet. Because of the way they shed their hair, poodles are prone to matting if they go for long periods without grooming. In extreme cases, matting can cause skin infections that are painful for your pet. Marie has over 10 years of pet grooming experience specializing in dogs and cats. Marie Lin Licensed Pet Groomer Expert Warning: If you have to cut out a thick mat, use scissors to cut through in the direction of the hair growth—not across! Also, be sure you can see the pointed tip of the scissors before you cut, to ensure you don't cut the dog's skin. Afterward, the mat should be loose enough to be combed out. You should be sure to bathe your dog before trimming him with clippers, as dirty or overly oily fur can prematurely dull your clipper blades. The ASPCA recommends bathing your dog every three months or so unless more frequent baths are required. Some dogs treasure bath time, while others dislike being bathed. If your dog does not enjoy bathing, you may want to get a helper to aid you in keeping the dog in the tub during the bath. Use a cup or a pitcher to flush water all over your poodle from head to tail. If you massage your poodle's back while rubbing in the shampoo, he may enjoy the bath a bit more. Use a shampoo specifically made for dogs. Continue rinsing with clean water until the water runs clear and no longer appears soapy. It's important to clean inside and under your dog's ears to prevent bacteria, yeast, and parasites from living there. Use a toothbrush to gently remove plaque buildup around the base of your poodle's teeth. Choose a toothpaste made specifically for dogs. Your poodle will inevitably swallow some of the toothpaste, and human toothpaste can upset your dog's stomach. Brush gently. Remember, your dog may not be used to having its gums rubbed. Brushing too hard or fast can cause pain to your poodle's sensitive gums. Be consistent with your poodle's dental care. Brushing your dog's teeth can help prevent tartar buildup, which causes periodontal disease and can lead to potentially-fatal bacterial infections. But you also want to avoid trimming them too short, as this can cause bleeding. Add to Favorites Every grooming salon has this type of client. They want their adult dog to look like it did when they first brought it home — like a puppy. Especially the head. The expression should be soft and sweet. Award-winning pet stylist, Amy Triezenberg, has isolated what captures this youthful look on a mature Toy Poodle. In this lesson, Amy demonstrates how to get this look. To save time, she sets the body with guard combs. Once the body pattern is set, she hand scissors the legs so they are fuller and slightly fluffy. Amy believes in getting through the body work as quickly as possible. She has plenty of ideas to make this happen. She demonstrates shortcuts and tips to swiftly move through this part of the trimming process. According to Amy, the head is the most critical part of the entire haircut. If she is going to take extra time on a haircut, this is where she will take it. To get that youthful expression, the entire head is done by hand scissoring. Typical of many Toy Poodles, this little guy is a bit fussy. He moves around quite a bit. Amy sprinkles handling advice throughout the entire lesson. She shows you now to win the trust and cooperation of a slightly challenging grooming candidate. In this video you will learn: how to block in the coat to save time and effort. She grew up in South Holland IL, and was home schooled her whole life. She competed in her first grooming contest while still in grooming school and won 3rd place. After competing in regular classes for a while, Amy started competing in creative styling. After success in the creative styling arena, she resumed her focused on regular grooming classes. With hard work, she earned her slot as a Top 10 GroomTeam Member in , , , , , and .Amy was the manager of an exclusive, high volume salon, which she loved. However, she made the difficult decision to leave that role with the birth of her first child. She chose a grooming job closer to her home. Three children later, she and her husband decided to open a home-based grooming salon. The flexible hours allow her to spend quality time with her family and dogs. Amy has written articles for Groomer to Grooming magazine and enjoys sharing what she has learned with private coaching and seminars. She has always appreciated all the people that have helped her along the way. She looks forward to helping others the way that others have helped her. Currently, she pursues her passion; the education side of grooming. You will need the following supplies: A good set of clippers A 10 blade and either a 5 or 7F blade A can of Cool Lube to clean and cool the clipper blades periodically as you work Follow the directions on the can. This will make it easier to bathe and blow dry the rest of the coat prior to trimming. Head and Top of the Muzzle With the dog facing you, lightly grip the muzzle to steady the head. Gripping too tightly will make the dog uncomfortable while gripping too lightly won't provide enough control. Using a 10 blade, you'll first cut the hair with the grain which runs from the nose towards the eyes. Clip the entire top half of the muzzle in this fashion. Follow up with light strokes from the corner of eyes to the start of each ear fold. Head and Lower Muzzle Area Once a line is established from the eye to the ear, imagine a V starting at the Adam's apple and ending at the front of each ear fold. With the clipper blade held facing upward, start at the Adam's apple and trim the hair to the ear fold. Remember your V pattern, and repeat on the other side. Next, use the clippers to trim all the hair on that portion of the neck and underneath the muzzle so it all matches. Be careful not to nick your dog's tongue if he licks, or it will bleed. Between the eyes, trim out a small, inverted V from the head fall to give the eyes prominence and accent the stop where the muzzle and head meet. Topknot The topknot is brushed and scissored into either a round cap or an oblong cap, whichever best fits the dog's facial features. Holding the muzzle, gently comb all the topknot hair from the rear of the dog's head forward. Carefully trim the hair straight across while being extremely careful around the eyes. Next, comb the topknot back from the front of the dog's head toward the back of the skull. Trim the hair across in a straight line just as you did when the hair was pulled forward. Repeat this procedure on both sides of the topknot and trim the hair flush with the skull above the ears. Now fluff the hair up, and a manageable square shape will appear. Gently round out the shape and shorten the hair to the length you desire. Shaving the Head If you prefer not to have a topknot, you can shave the top of the head with a 10 blade. This will give your dog a cleaner look. Ears The ears can be brushed out and trimmed neatly around the edges or shaved to match the length of the facial hair. Clip down the ribs from the topline to under the dog to remove the side hair cleanly. You must be extremely careful around the dog's nipples so you don't cut them. Switch back to a 10 blade and clip with the direction of the hair growth to clean the area from the chest to belly. Work very carefully around the genitals and anus. Tail Using the 10 blade, clip the hair from the base of the tail to halfway up, and leave the hair long on the rest of the tail. Gather the long hair, twist it tightly into a hair rope, and then use scissors to cut the end of your rope just about one inch above the tip of tail itself. Shake the tail out, and you'll have a rough circle that you can then shape into a "pom" with finishing shears Are you InTheKnow? Sign up for our newsletter featuring all the latest stories and products we love. Invalid email I agree to receive email communications from LoveToKnow. Trim it with scissors to create a cylinder that blends into the body hair at the shoulders and hips. Or, use same blade 5 or 7F that you used on the body and clip the hair from shoulder to foot for a maintenance-free trim. Feet The feet can be shaped with the scissors to match the body, or you can opt for the traditional hair-free Poodle foot by using a 10 blade to clip against the grain under and on top of the foot. Spread the toes and carefully "scoop" out the hair in between with the clippers. Most dog's feet are ticklish, so take your time. Trim just to the top of the foot where it meets the dog's ankle. Increasing the Curl If you love the look of curly poodle hair, keep a spray bottle of water with you as you work. After you brush your poodle out, give them a gentle misting of water. This will promote more curling of the fur. Bathing Your Poodle Not only will a regular trim help keep your poodle's hair and skin in good condition but a regular bath is also a necessary task for poodle owners. A poodle should be bathed about every four to six weeks. It's important to comb their hair out before you bathe them for best results. Using a Professional Groomer If this all seems a bit overwhelming and you'd prefer to take your dog to a groomer , expect pricing to vary based on several factors. This would include the size of your poodle and the overall condition of their coat and how detailed and fancy you want the cut to be. Perfecting the Art of Poodle Haircuts Learning how to groom a poodle takes some practice, but it is a skill you can master. You should have a basic understanding of how to groom a poodle if you're going to live with one. Remember that mistakes will happen, but the hair will grow back. Just keep trying until you perfect your technique with poodle haircuts. Eventually, you'll be ready to try some more complicated poodle trims. But the many challenges of Poodle grooming have redirected more than a few aspiring owners to choose a lower maintenance dog breed. The truth is, keeping that lush, curly coat free of tangles and mats can be a big job. As of today, the dog breed known as the Poodle is bred in three sizes: toy, miniature and standard, and is currently ranked as the 7th most popular dog nationwide. And their coats get a lot of attention, especially when they match a certain style. But beyond it all, there is still just one purebred Poodle dog breed. The basic Poodle grooming guidelines you will read about here apply equally to all purebred Poodle dogs. Poodle Hair Basics Poodles are smart, active, agile, easy to train, eager to learn, outgoing and people-pleasers. They are also as close to being a non-shedding, hypoallergenic dog as any dog gets. In theory, Poodles are the type of pet dog everyone wants! The answer is simple: their high-maintenance coat. Poodle hair is notoriously grooming-intensive. Puppies have very soft hair that often grows in wavy instead of curly. Poodle hair transitions from puppy hair to adult Poodle hair somewhere between 9 and 18 months of age. Instead, this shed hair develops into mats and tangles unless continuously groomed. Professional grooming at least every 3 to 6 weeks is highly recommended for adult dogs. Otherwise, the same show and daily hair clips and grooming basics apply equally for standard Poodle grooming, miniature Poodle grooming and toy Poodle grooming. Luckily, in addition to these two ornate show styles, you also have plenty of other Poodle grooming styles to choose from. Poodle Clips There are several different clips you might like to try on your dog: Puppy clip Poodles aged 12 months or younger often wear this clip, with face, feet and tail shaved and the remainder scissor-clipped. A topknot is optional. Lamb clip All fur is clipped to the same short length, leaving the Poodle looking like he is wearing a warm fuzzy bathrobe…. Teddy bear clip As the name suggests, this clip leaves your Poodle looking less like a Poodle and more like a classic teddy bear, with hair evenly clipped throughout. Town and country clip The belly, face, neck and feet are shaved. The remaining fur is left long. You can opt for an easier-to-maintain, straightforward clip that you can learn to do yourself, such as one of those described in the previous section here. The same basic grooming tools are used for standard, miniature and toy Poodle grooming styles. In the same way, learning how to groom a Miniature Poodle uses the same basic set of steps as learning to groom a toy or standard Poodle. We are big fans of the hertzko slicker brush, but you can find lots more options in the slicker brush section below too. Best Brush for Poodles Choosing the best brush for Poodle hair requires at least two different kinds of poodle brush, a bristle brush and a slicker brush for Poodles. The slicker brush is used first, to remove mats, tangles and shed-out hair. After all the tangles and mats are worked out, the bristle brush is then used to brush out de-tangled and de-matted hair. The neatest aspect of this brush is the self-cleaning button: one push and hair is ejected for fast clean up. The manufacturer includes a free e-book on grooming and a 5-year warranty. It includes 40 percent more pins and is designed to help penetrate the deepest layers of thick, curly coats and then help shape and style the chosen clip. Bristle brush for Poodles Bristle brushes are another great choice. The handle is made of no-slip silicone for a comfy customized fit. The bristles have rounded ends to ensure safety while grooming. It works well to make the coat soft and smooth. They gently work their way down to the lowest level of the curly, thick Poodle coat. Those sharp, shiny gizmos and gadgets, some of which make super-loud noises and move in strange ways, can strike terror into even the staunchest puppy heart. Especially when operated near sensitive areas such as eyes and ears. By helping your puppy get used to the feeling of having his ears, eyes, nails, tail and teeth examined and worked on up close. You can also make a visit or two to the groomer before your puppy is actually ready to be groomed for the first time. This way, your puppy gets used to the sounds, sights and smells of the grooming experience. Be sure to bring plenty of treats so your puppy associates groomer visits with tasty snacks! However, we selected them for inclusion independently, and all of the views expressed in this article are our own. This will be good practice for later on — for both of you! Yes, haircuts are essential for Poodles. Their thick, long, curly coats are prone to tangling and trapping debris. When will my Poodle puppy need haircuts? Then, at around four months old, they will shed their puppy coats and start to grow out their rougher adult coats. Frequency As a general rule, Poodles should have their coats clipped every weeks once their adult coats grow out, whatever your desired length. This is because they grow so quickly and can become matted just as fast! What equipment should I use? There are three main types of dog grooming scissors; straight scissors, curved scissors, and thinning shears, and they all perform slightly differently. Straight grooming scissors are a multi-task tool, they have straight blades for general, basic grooming, creating straight lines in the coat, and adding the finishing touches to haircuts. Curved dog grooming shear has a curved blade that can be used to fine-tune and shape specific areas of the coat, such as the paws and hindquarters. Thinning shears have a cutting edge on one blade and teeth on the other, and there are also double thinners that have teeth on both blades. They are designed to remove lots of hair in even sections for a natural finish, and they can also be used to blend out the harsh lines from clippers and texturize the coat. Or, if you just need something for the occasional touch-up between visits to the groomer, a simple pair of electrical motor clippers will do just fine. Electric motor clippers are also good for keeping short coats short. You should also be aware of the types of blades that come with clippers. The higher the number of the blade, the more hair that it will remove. Or, you can get guards that fit a single blade to customize the length, which is a lot more convenient. Start by showing them the equipment and getting them used to the sight and sound of it before you cut any hair. Reward them just for being around it and then try cutting a small section of hair. If they react well, reward them again, and then do another section. Keep rewarding them as you go and again after the haircut is finished. Do it in a well-lit, comfortable part of the home that your pup can stand up in. Once you get them into a routine — keep it up! Work your way down the legs first, then from the neck to the hindquarters, or vice versa, and then the tail. Take care with the feet, underside, and head, shielding their eyes from falling fur. Use long strokes and go from the neck down to the back legs. How to deal with grooming anxiety If your pup is afraid of the scissors or clippers, take it really slowly and try to make it an enjoyable experience. You can do this by breaking up the haircut into smaller sessions to make it less stressful and taking breaks in between each one. Give your dog lots of praise and a reward every time you take a break and ask another family member to comfort them during the haircut. You can start brushing your Poodle from any age. To brush them, simply go in the direction of hair growth using short strokes. Hold the fur at the base with your free hand to remove knots, and use a mat remover for any stubborn mats. Bathing a Poodle puppy As for bathing, you should give your Poodle pup their first proper bath at months old to help them shed their puppy coat, unless they get seriously dirty before that. However, you can give your pup a bath any time after weeks of age to get them used to the sensation, but avoid overbathing them, as this will strip the fur of its natural oils and make it dry and brittle. Once they have their adult coats, your Poodle pup will need a bath once a month. You can even buy shampoo that is designed especially for Poodle coats. To give your Poodle a bath, lather up their wet fur with the shampoo, massage it in, leave it for as long as directed on the bottle, and rinse thoroughly. Follow up with conditioner if necessary. Starting out just training her own Border Collies, she gradually expanded to local classes and seminars, now she travels as far as Europe and teaches students all over the world on how to train their dogs in a positive, bonding, game-based way. She is known for her clear, step-by-step training that lets beginners and advanced dog trainers see lasting results very quickly.

In the early s, CDHPR had been working with the UKC under a unique agreement to develop breeding plans and strategies in an effort to produce improved breeds of dogs that would be accepted as purebred and, therefore, eligible for UKC registration. Fechimer from Ohio State University. They are well-balanced and proportioned, while appearing capable of performing without any breathing restrictions in either heat or in cold. Serious Faults: Excessive wrinkle, lack of pigment around eyes, nose or mouth. There is a defined furrow between the eyes from the stop to the occiput. Narrow skull and domed forehead are faults. The muzzle is square, wide and deep. Bite is undershot or reverse scissors. Lower jawbone is moderately curved from front to back. Nostrils are wide, with a line running vertically between nostrils from the tip of nose down to the bottom of the upper lip. Nose is large and broad in relationship to the width of the muzzle. Nose color is black. Eyes are medium in size and almond shaped, dark to light brown, with black pigmented eye rims. They are set wide and low, level with the top of the muzzle. Ears are small, rose, button or tulip. Rose is preferred. They are set high, wide and to the back outer edge of the skull. The body is sturdy, powerful and slightly rectangular when viewed from the side. Chest is wide and deep. Hind legs are well muscled and have the appearance of being slightly longer than the forelegs. The hind legs should be straight, parallel and set apart. Accepted color patterns include brindle, and solid colors, with or without white. Males should be 60 to 80 pounds 27 to 36 kg , and 17 to 20 inches 43 to 51 cm at the withers, while females should be 50 to 70 pounds 23 to 32 kg , and 16 to 19 inches 41 to 48 cm at the withers. Proponents of the breed maintain that it does not suffer from the same disorders as purebred Bulldogs. The Olde English Bulldogge was mentioned as an outcross candidate to introduce new genetics in an effort to correct some of the problems associated with inbreeding. Many Swiss dog breeders have begun outcrossing Bulldogs with the Olde English Bulldogge, having created the Continental Bulldog in an effort to bring the Bulldog into compliance. Ohld ing-glish Bool-dawg Description The Olde English Bulldogge is a muscular, medium sized dog of great strength, stability and athleticism. He is well balanced and proportioned, with no features exaggerated or standing out. He has the appearance of a dog capable of doing his original job, bull baiting. The OEB head is prominent and dramatic. The cheeks are large, well developed and display powerful jaw muscles. A slightly wrinkled forehead is acceptable. There is a crease from the stop to the occiput. It has a narrow skull and domed forehead. The muzzle is square, wide and deep, with definite layback. Distance from the tip of the nose to the stop does not exceed one-third of the distance from the tip of the nose to the occiput. Height of the muzzle from the bottom of the chin to the top of the muzzle is equal to or greater than the length of the muzzle, thus producing the deep, square muzzle. There is slight to moderate wrinkle on the muzzle. Flews are semi-pendulous. The bite is undershot and horizontally straight. Lower jawbone is moderately curved from front to back. Eyes are round to almond-shape and medium sized. They are set wide apart, with the outside corner of the eye intersecting with the outside line of the skull and are set low, at the level of the muzzle, where the stop and muzzle intersect. Eye color is brown, with black pigmented eye rims. Canine teeth are large. Broken, chipped or extracted teeth are acceptable. There are 6 corn row teeth between canines. Nostrils are wide with a line running vertically between nostrils from the tip of nose down to the bottom of the upper lip. Nose is large and broad in relationship to the width of the muzzle. Nose color is black. Ears are rose, button or tulip, with rose preferred. They are set high and to the rear of the skull. The ears are positioned as wide as possible on the outside of the skull. They are small to medium in size. Neck is medium length, wide, and slightly arched. It is a little smaller than the head where the two meet, and gets wider from that point to the shoulders. It is slightly loose from jaw to chest, forming a double dewlap. They are broad, heavily muscled and have a separation between shoulder blades. The scapula shoulder blade should be at an approximate degree angle to vertical and form an angle approximately degrees to the humerus forearm. Scapula and humerus should be roughly equal in length. A vertical line drawn from the point of the scapula top to the ground will pass directly through the elbow. The elbows are not turned in or out. The legs are set wide apart, coming straight down from the shoulders. They are straight vertically on inside of legs and well-muscled, giving a bowed appearance of front quarters. The forelegs have medium bone and are in proportion to the body. The pasterns are medium in length. They are straight, strong, flexible and nearly perpendicular to the ground. Body is sturdy and powerful. The length from tip of breastbone to rear thigh is slightly longer than the height from ground to withers. The back is wide and muscular, showing power. Topline has a slight roach or wheel back. There is a fall in the back, to its low spot behind the shoulders. From this point the spine rises to the loin. The high point of the loin is a little bit higher than the shoulders then there is a gentle curve, forming an arch, down to the tail. Loin back of ribcage to hips is muscular, medium in length and slightly arched. The chest is wide and deep with a muscular brisket. Ribs are well sprung and rounded, being at their fullest directly behind the shoulders. Shoulders to forelegs are well muscled. Hips and thighs are strong and muscular. Hind legs are well muscled and slightly longer than the forelegs. In a natural stance they are straight, parallel and set apart when viewed from the rear. Distance between hind legs is less than distance between front legs. Angulation is moderate. Stifles have a gentle convex curve when viewed from the side. Stifle angle roughly matches the angle of the pelvis. Hocks are perpendicular to the ground when viewed from the side and back. They are parallel to each other when viewed from the back. A line drawn from the rear-most part of the buttocks, perpendicular to the ground, should fall to the front of the toes. They are straight when viewed from the front. Rear feet are smaller than front feet. Tail should be set low and tapering from base to end. It can be pump handle or straight, with pump handle being preferred. Tail should reach the hocks or be slightly shorter and carried down or horizontal. Some breeders choose to dock the tail. Coat is short, close and of medium density. It should be shiny, showing good health. Color can be brindle of red, gray, fawn or black; either solid or pied with white. Solid white, fawn, red or black; solid color or pied. Temperament Olde English Bulldogges are docile, but capable and protective, fearless and athletic, fierce-looking, determined and courageous, bold and friendly around their family and friends, but fearless adversaries to anyone who threatens their masters or property. This breed likes to chew and should be supplied with plenty of toys and bones. Nylabones and rubber Kong toys are highly recommended. Rawhides, soft rubber and stuffed toys are unsafe, for they are easily shredded or swallowed whole. Olde English Bulldogges are so eager to please that they may overexert themselves in an effort to do whatever is asked of them. An owner who displays a natural authority toward the dog, socialization and obedience training are important. It is best to channel high energy individuals to some type of work and exercise. The objective in training this dog is to achieve pack leader status. It is a natural instinct for a dog to have an order in its pack. When we humans live with dogs , we become their pack. The entire pack cooperates under a single leader. Lines are clearly defined and rules are set. Because a dog communicates his displeasure with growling and eventually biting, all other humans MUST be higher up in the order than the dog. The humans must be the ones making the decisions, not the dogs. That is the only way your relationship with your dog can be a complete success. This breed tends to drool and slobber. Height, Weight Height: Males 17 - 20 inches 43 - 51 cm Females 16 - 19 inches 40 - 48 kg Weight: Males 60 - 80 pounds 27 - 36 kg Females 50 - 70 pounds 22 - 31 kg Health Problems May be susceptible to bloat —a painful and often fatal condition that can be brought on by too large a quantity of food consumed at one time. As with all large breeds, hip dysplasia sometimes occurs. Breeders are working hard to keep it out of the Olde English Bulldogge; therefore, no dog with bad hips is bred. Living Conditions Olde English Bulldogges will adapt to almost any lifestyle. They should be protected from the extreme cold and heat, although they are not as susceptible as the AKC Bulldog. Exercise This breed needs to be taken on a daily pack walk to satisfy its migration instinct. When properly conditioned they can be active dogs, however, they are equally happy with moderate exercise. They can stay in relatively good shape with good muscle tone with only light exercise. These dogs are naturally slow, and because of their unique structure, they should not be encouraged to jump or engage in strenuous exercise as young pups. This breed is an average shedder. In he became disenchanted with English Bulldogs due to their breeding and breathing problems. David's goal was to produce a dog with the looks of the 18th century bulldog, with the temperament of today's English Bulldogs, yet healthy, without breathing problems, or all the other aliments today's English Bulldogs are prone to. This new breed can now breathe. Cesarean section births are not necessary. Artificial insemination, due to male ineptness and lack of drive, has been replaced by natural ties. Lifespan is over eleven years. All breeding stock has had hip x-rays. No dog with bad hips is bred. David says he is now achieving his goal of producing a Bulldog with the health and temperament to be able to serve people, instead of forcing people to serve him. David Leavitt is breeding them to more of a working lines type dog, while OEBKC is breeding the dogs as more of a family oriented dog. Your dog is special! Chances are that you chose her because you like OEBs and you expected her to have certain traits that would fit your lifestyle: Lively, with a friendly personality Good with children Protective of family; good watch dog Always on the go, with a keen eye for adventure Confident, steady, and fearless However, no dog is perfect! Of course! She is a loving and happy companion. She is a strong and powerful breed that requires ample exercise and a confident leader that provides continuous socialization. His goal was to produce a dog with the appearance, health, and strength of the original bull-baiting breed. The Olde English Bulldogge has fewer breathing problems and less trouble with birthing than the parent breeds. The OEB is a courageous and alert guardian that will defend family and home. The Bulldogge is generally outgoing and friendly with a desire to please — making her easy to train and a wonderful family pet. That is why we have summarized the health concerns we will be discussing with you over the life of your Bulldogge. By knowing about health concerns specific to Olde English Bulldogges, we can tailor a preventive health plan to watch for and hopefully prevent some predictable risks. That does not mean your dog will have these problems; it just means that she is more at risk than other dogs. We will describe the most common issues seen in Olde English Bulldogges to give you an idea of what may come up in her future. This guide contains general health information important to all canines as well as the most important genetic predispositions for Olde English Bulldogges. At the end of the booklet, we have also included a description of what you can do at home to keep your OEB looking and feeling her best. And unfortunately, your Olde English Bulldogge is more likely than other dogs to have problems with her teeth. It starts with tartar build-up on the teeth and progresses to infection of the gums and roots of the teeth. Infections Olde English Bulldogges are susceptible to bacterial and viral infections — the same ones that all dogs can get — such as parvo, rabies, and distemper. Many of these infections are preventable through vaccination, which we will recommend based on the diseases we see in our area, her age, and other factors. Obesity Obesity can be a significant health problem in Olde English Bulldogges. It is a serious disease that may cause or worsen joint problems, metabolic and digestive disorders, back pain and heart disease. Instead, give her a hug, brush her fur or teeth, play a game with her, or perhaps take her for a walk. Roundworm egg as seen under the microscope. Everything from fleas and ticks to ear mites can infest her skin and ears. Hookworms, roundworms, heartworms, and whipworms can get into her system in a number of ways: drinking unclean water, walking on contaminated soil, or being bitten by an infected mosquito. Some of these parasites can be transmitted to you or a family member and are a serious concern for everyone. Spay or Neuter One of the best things you can do for your Bulldogge is to have her spayed neutered for males. In females, this means we surgically remove the ovaries and usually the uterus, and in males, it means we surgically remove the testicles. Spaying or neutering decreases the likelihood of certain types of cancers and eliminates the possibility of your pet becoming pregnant or fathering unwanted puppies. Performing this surgery also gives us a chance, while your pet is under anesthesia, to identify and address some of the diseases your dog is likely to develop. For example, if your pet needs hip X-rays or a puppy tooth extracted, this would be a good time. This is convenient for you and easy for your friend. Routine blood testing prior to surgery also helps us to identify and take precautions for common problems that increase anesthetic or surgical risk. When the dog breed is more rare, or has not been studied because of geographic or other isolation, we have no stockpile of documented history to draw upon when making preventive healthcare recommendations. We can however, make some educated guesses based on disease risks for dog breeds that share conformational or genetic links with your Olde English Bulldogge. Based on these similarities, the following disease risks may carry higher risk, although supportive research has not been identified. Notice how the lower lid curls in towards the surface of the eye to cause irritation. Eyelid Abnormality Entropion is a condition where the eyelid rolls inward, causing the eyelashes to rub against the cornea surface of the eyeball. This is an extremely irritating and painful condition that can ultimately lead to blindness. It can happen in any dog breed; however, your Bulldogge is especially at risk for this heritable disorder. Surgical correction is usually successful if performed early. Allergies In humans, an allergy to pollen, mold, or dust makes people sneeze and their eyes itch. In dogs, rather than sneeze, allergies make their skin itchy. Commonly, the feet, belly, folds of the skin, and ears are most affected. Symptoms typically start between the ages of one and three and can get worse every year. Licking the paws, rubbing the face, and frequent ear infections are the most common signs. The good news is that there are many treatment options available for this condition. Allergies, swimming, overgrowth of hair in the ear canals, or an accumulation of earwax can all predispose your dog to ear infections, which are painful and annoying. Bulldogges are very often afflicted by allergies, which cause itching and inflammation in the ears and elsewhere. The earlier we diagnose this disease, the less discomfort and pain he will suffer. Be sure to call us if you notice him scratching or shaking his head, a foul odor from the ears, or if his ears seem painful to the touch. By monitoring for ear infections and treating them early, we also reduce the likelihood of eardrum damage that can lead to deafness. Most ear infections tend to recur until we work together to control the underlying cause. When swallowed, these objects often get stuck and have to be surgically removed. Some of what your dog eats may be toxic and can poison him. If you notice that he is vomiting or not acting right call us immediately. Heart Disease Olde English Bulldogges are prone to multiple types of heart disease, which can occur both early and later in life. Veterinary dental care and weight control go a long way in preventing heart disease. You may notice that he has lameness in his hind legs or has difficulty getting up from lying down. We can treat the arthritis — the sooner the better — to avoid discomfort and pain. Surgery is sometimes considered in severe and life-limiting cases of hip dysplasia. Keep in mind that overweight dogs may develop arthritis years earlier than those of normal weight, causing undue pain and suffering. You might notice that he runs along and suddenly picks up a back leg and skips or hops for a few strides. If the problem is mild and involves only one leg, your friend may not require much treatment beyond arthritis medication. When symptoms are severe, surgery may be needed to realign the kneecap to keep it from popping out of place. Illustration showing a tear in the cranial cruciate ligament of the knee joint. Knee Ligament Tear The cranial cruciate ligament is one of the four tough bands of tissue that hold each knee together. A torn cranial cruciate ligament is a common injury in active dogs, which includes your OEB. Usually surgical correction is done to stabilize the knee and help prevent crippling arthritis. Physical therapy and multimodal pain management are necessary to get the best outcome. Keeping him at the right weight, feeding a high-quality diet, and avoiding too much twisting of the knees like playing Frisbee are key in avoiding this painful injury. Laryngeal Paralysis Older Bulldogges may develop this disease, in which the vocal cords become paralyzed and hang down into the airway. Watch for noisy breathing, especially when exercising or in hot, humid weather. In severe cases a pet can collapse and have difficulty breathing. Mild cases can be managed with changes at home and possibly medication. The thyroid glands rest on both sides of the neck alongside the windpipe. Signs can include dry skin and coat, hair loss, susceptibility to other skin diseases, weight gain, fearfulness, aggression, or other behavioral changes. Treatment is usually simple: replacement hormones given in the form of a pill. Taking Care of Your Olde English Bulldogge at Home Much of what you can do to keep your dog happy and healthy is common sense, just like it is for people. Be sure to adhere to the schedule of examinations and vaccinations that we recommend for her. Another very important step in caring for your pet is signing up for pet health insurance. There will certainly be medical tests and procedures she will need throughout her life and pet health insurance will help you cover those costs. Routine Care, Diet, and Exercise Build her routine care into your schedule to help your OEB live longer, stay healthier, and be happier during her lifetime. We cannot overemphasize the importance of a proper diet and exercise routine. Supervise your pet as you would a toddler. Keep doors closed, pick up after yourself, and block off rooms as necessary. She has low grooming needs. Brush her coat as needed, at least weekly. Olde English Bulldogges generally have good teeth, and you can keep them perfect by brushing them at least twice a week! Clean her ears weekly, even as a puppy. She can be sensitive to warm temperatures; avoid any prolonged exposure and be very alert to the signs of heat stress. Feed a high-quality diet appropriate for her age. What to Watch For Any abnormal symptom could be a sign of serious disease, or it could just be a minor or temporary problem. The important thing is to be able to tell when to seek veterinary help, and how urgently. Many diseases cause dogs to have a characteristic combination of symptoms, which together can be a clear signal that your Olde English Bulldogge needs help. For the most up-to-date information on DNA and other screening tests available for your pal, visit www. Your Bulldogge counts on you to take good care of her, and we look forward to working with you to ensure that she lives a long and healthy life. Please contact us when you have questions or concerns. References: Olde English Bulldogge [Internet]. Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. Dog Breed Info Center. Fetch, Inc. Orthopedic Foundation for Animals.

Your puppy will be born and raised in our busy household. Our passion is to produce wonderful family pets with gentle loving temperaments that will bring a lifetime of happiness. We are extremely proud that the foundation of our lines have been trained as canine partner dogs and many of our puppies are therapy dogs and visit schools regularly. We have been breeding for a number of years and over these years we have seen many clubs come and go and we have been a member of some of them. We breed authentic Australian Labradoodles with lines that have been verified. We are content to follow our own path with strong ethics. We have an excellent reputation and we adopt the highest standards so you can be assured your puppy is an authentic Australian Labradoodle with bloodlines and health testing that has been verified. We follow a socialisation programme and temperament test all of our puppies before puppy pick day so we can help you make your choice. Temperament and health is always our first priority. We purchased our first Australian Labradoodle in and have been hooked ever since. Our dogs are our much loved family pets or live with their guardian families. Please contact us via email for more information. Access to our private puppy family area. A WhatsApp group for your litter. Both parents have been fully health tested with certificates available to view. Been bred in our family home by a 5 star council licensed breeder. Temperament tested and advice provided at puppy viewing. Call us today on Health Guaranteed All our puppies leave us with a full vet health check and a 2 year genetic health guarantee. Health Tested All our breeding Australian Labradoodles are fully health tested. We give our puppies the best start by following a tried and tested programme. Ethical Breeding We have the highest welfare standards which is why we hold a 5 star council licence. We believe every dog deserves a good life and this starts with the breeder. What our customers say.We travelled far to find her, and her knowledge, expertise and love for all things ALD is exceptional. After only a few days, Willow is already a huge part of our lives and so we are very glad that we chose Judy and RIpley's. Our dogs are very much our family pets. We are not a kennel, all our Australian Labradoodles have wonderful fulfilling lives either with us or our guardian families. Our dogs are for life and not just for breeding. The health and temperament of Australian Labradoodles is our number one priority, of course we breed exceptionally lovely puppies but our puppies health and temperament will always be our first priority. The Australian Labradoodle breed originated in Australia in the 's. The focus has always been on temperament, coat and quality through good health testing and planned matings. Our Australian Labradoodles are multigenerational, meaning both parents are Australian Labradoodles. Australian Labradoodles are very people focussed, they have a strong desire to please. Australian Labradoodles come in 3 sizes, miniature, medium and standard. Within my breeding programme I concentrate on miniature and mediums. Our Australian Labradoodles are extremely clever, sociable , comical and joyful. They are energetic when free and quiet in the home. We test their hips, elbows, eyes and genetics. When you purchase a Ripley's Australian Labradoodle you can be assured we have tested everything possible. We provide a 2 year health guarantee but we ask that our puppy families not give ingestible flea and worming treatments. As a tiny pup she grew up in their house lots of breeders say they do this, but the pups are often in an outside shed. She arrived with me at 8 weeks old as a confident well rounded little girl. As an added bonus, she was practically house trained. I would have no hesitation in recommending Southdown Labradoodles. They are really caring breeders who love their dogs and will go the extra mile to make sure every pup gets the very best start in life. After a great amount of searching we found Southdowns Australian Labradoodles. Debbie was both friendly and professional. She was happy to answer any questions we had and we found the puppy information pack really useful. Debbie kept us informed throughout Otties pregnancy. Being able to watch Ottie and the puppies over the webcast was amazing and helped us feel connected to the puppies. We were able to see what a lovely mum Ottie was. Debbie's care of the puppies including making sure they all had the necessary health checks was excellent. The puppies were beautiful and well socialised. Our puppy has a very good temperament, well adjusted although very mischievous. She has bought a lot of joy to our lives and we can't thank Debbie enough. If you are looking for an ethical trustworthy breeder who places the welfare of her dogs and puppies above all else then you would do no better than Debbie. We would definitely recommend her Marie, John and Pebbles New Puppy Owner Adding an Australian Labradoodle to our family is the best decision we have made and we couldn't imagine our lives without our fur baby! As soon as we met Debbie and Tony, it was obvious that they are responsible breeders and are passionate about what they do. They took time to answer all of our questions and as first-time dog owners with young children there were lots!! We were invited to meet them and their dogs when the pups were four weeks old; following this we visited regularly and were always made to feel welcome. We were able to view the puppies via puppy cam at any time and it was lovely to see them grow and develop. Debbie and Tony provided us with expert advice and are clearly very knowledgeable about the breed. We have stayed in touch with Debbie and Tony and meet regularly for dog walks. They have always been on hand with advice and to answer any questions - I recommend them to everyone. My parents fell in love with our pup and 14 months later, brought home her brother - it's lovely to watch them grow up together, they bring so much fun and laughter to our family. Pippa K Are you ready to embark on your Puppy Journey. ? Our Breeding Dogs We are proud to introduce our breeding dogs, who are the foundation of our program to produce healthy, happy, and family-friendly Australian Labradoodles. Our dogs are all tested for health and temperament, and they come from a long line of well-bred Australian Labradoodles. South Downs Australian Labradoodles Puppies We are currently expecting a litter of puppies from our breeding dogs. Our puppies are born and raised in our home, so they are well-socialized and used to being around people and other animals. They are also non-shedding dogs, making them a great choice for families with allergies. Non-shedding Dogs for Families Australian Labradoodles are known for being non-shedding dogs, which makes them a great choice for families with allergies. They are also very intelligent and easy to train, making them a joy to have around. Eastbourne Australian Labradoodles Puppies for Sale We are located in Eastbourne, England, and we are happy for our puppies to relocate to other parts of the UK with their new 'puppy parents'. If you are interested in learning more about our puppies or our breeding program, please contact us today. We have both been animal lovers since we were children. There is no animal we don't love. All life, whatever you are, is precious! We both were brought up spending school holidays volunteering with our mums at a pony rescue and cats protection league. Animal Welfare is extremely important to both of us and we raise every puppy with the love and care they deserve. We are very lucky to have 3, soon to be 4, healthy children that also play a huge part in raising our dogs and puppies. You will see our children regularly on the puppy cam, playing and even cleaning out the puppies. Alex is chief puppy cleaner and gets very upset if anyone tries to help him as he likes the puppy area to be just perfect. Teaching children compassion and love is very important and we do feel very lucky that we can do that for our children with the love and care we put into our puppies. Being around animals and being able to work with them everyday is not only a passion but a childhood dream. We have worked with dogs for the last 16 years and have a very successful doodle dog grooming salon. This is where our love for Australian labradoodles was born. Out of all the dogs we groom, pedigree and cross breeds in our busy salon, we have never come across a breed of dog that is as wonderful as an Australian labradoodle. Australian labradoodles are born to be a companion, and a dog the whole family can enjoy. Having been brought up in a family that had rescue dogs, rescue cats and rescue chickens, its very important to us that our puppies and dogs are raised to the highest welfare standards, and we will campaign and help other breeders willing to work to the same high standards we have here at Willows Australian Labradoodles. Not every Australian Labradoodle is created equally, so we can't stress enough the importance of buying from a breeder that is doing all the health testing not just one test and then claiming that they are health tested and raised the puppies in a family home. As each person and family plays such an important part of having the highest welfare and the best quality dogs possible. Willows Australian labradoodles East Sussex - Fully License Breeder The proof is in the Puppies A good way of explaining how a good breeder feels is to compare ourselves to a baker. We are making the best possible cake we can! We grow our own organic ingredients, weigh out each ingredient, perfect the perfect mix and put it all together from our years of experience. Then we lovingly place it into the oven and set a timer. A spiritual breeder with a big heart. Our puppies are born with love, and our support is forever. We bring these beautiful souls into the world, and their forever happiness is the most important thing of all. We pride ourselves on communication, support and friendship. Firstly let me introduce myself, My name is Michelle, and we are a small breeder with strong ethics and a big heart. My dogs really are my life. They are my companions, best friends and family. As you will discover with the breed, they are my entertainment too. Pippa, her daughter Florence and her grandaughter Merebelle live here with me and Winnie. Along with the heartwarming joy we feel when we meet their new families and see how they truly change lives. Read a handful of our reviews, and you will understand how special our Australian Labradoodles are and how passionate we are about supporting our families. Benson was my world. He was a fantastic companion who filled every day with love and laughter. Benson is the reason we breed these beautiful dogs. I wanted to share what I found in Benson with others. I built this website myself with the aim of giving you a window into the world of the Australian Labradoodle. It was imperative that our website was written from the heart rather than built by a business. All of our breeding dogs are much-loved pets who have their very own forever families. And we couldn't have it any other way. We never sell retired breeding dogs. When our dogs retire, they stay with their forever families. Our Guardian program works brilliantly. Why not pop onto our Guardian Page to find out more? We consider our pup's families our friends and are always at the end of a call or text to offer help and guidance. We create private pages for our litters, enabling their families to follow their pup's progress from birth to collection. These pages create great memories too. Imagine looking back in ten years time, seeing their first steps. We use these pages to upload photos and videos and share advice and links to help their families prepare for their arrival. In addition, we have an Essex-based Australian Labradoodle walking group where you can arrange your own group walks. Our pup's health and temperament are of the utmost importance to us. The health of the puppies starts with the health of both parents. All of our breeding dogs go through physical and DNA health screening. All of their health and breed authentication certificates are available to view on choosing day. There is no rush when you are here. Rather than tryig to see everyone in one day, we invite our families to spend time with the puppies over a week. I love sharing my knowledge about the breed, so please do not hesitate to call. The love and devotion the Australian labradoodle has for their human friends is simply amazing; indeed the Australian Labradoodle was bred to not only to be a companion but a trained therapy assistant dog. Through diligent breeding practices, keeping temperament the top priority, the breed have developed to become extremely smart, intuitive, loving, fun dogs. Australian Labradoodles have wonderful sense of humours. They live to make people smile. Australian Labradoodles love everyone and every thing. .They live their lives assuming and insisting that everyone and everything loves them back. They really do bring so much joy. Please take a moment to read through our reviews on the website and Facebook page. Our Australian Labradoodles really do change lives. Australian Labradoodles also make excellent performance and agility dogs. Therefore if you're looking to keep busy, be very easy to train and enjoy learning new things, the sky is the limit. Their unique connection to their human companions makes them yearn to be near their people and eager to please them. Take a look at the video below of our lovely Yogi, who is a therapy dog. He loves to visit all the people who need a little Yogi love. Our aim here at Churchills Australian Labradoodles is to breed healthy, happy puppies who are perfect family pets and assistance dogs, as well as one on one companions. You will see from our photo galleries that all our dogs have lovely soft fleece coats and great looks that the Australian Labradoodles are known for. What you need to know! Step 1 Reserving your puppy Once you get in touch we can discuss your requirements and how the puppy will fit into your lifestyle. When do you want a puppy? If we have a current litter and there are available puppies, you can arrange a visit. I can also put your name onto a waiting list at this stage you pay your non-refundable deposit. Step 2 Choosing your puppy Once the litter has arrived I will contact you to let you know how many are male and female. At 6 weeks old, you will be invited to visit and select your puppy. This is done in the order that the puppies were reserved. Please note that you will be required to take a LFT and all visits will be inline with the government guidelines. I will send you photographs and weekly updates of your puppy. Step 3 Paying for your puppy Once the collection day has arrived we can discuss how you would like to pay the balance of the puppy fee. I can accept bank transfers, cash or paypal payments. We know our stuff Partners and Certification Do you have what it takes to be a guardian? In an effort for us to expand our breeding programme, we offer a Guardian Home programme.