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How does it feel to be a new puppy parent? You must be chuffed. Take a look at these first few articles. All the ingredients you need for a happy home. But for now, beside your bed is the best place for your puppy to sleep — it will help them feel safe. Puppies like their crates rather cave-like; we suggest covering it with a blanket to block out light, but keep the front open so that they can see outwards. Make sure to make it snug inside with something like a vet bed or a blanket, or why not take it up a notch with a heat pad or hot water bottle to recreate the feeling of their mother. Nothing feels more comforting than that. Before you head to bed, take your puppy out for one last round of loo-going. Set your bedtime at a later time too — midnight sounds about right. Come back calmly, and place your puppy in the crate and turn out the light. Stuff you should know about Sleep Training your Labrador Your puppy will wake up several times in the night and will need the bathroom at least once! Be prepared for not-so-deep sleeps and tired mornings — just for the first few weeks. Having them sleep next to you is only temporary. Consistency is key! As for you, full nights of sleep will start getting closer and closer. Alone Training How can I teach my Labrador puppy to be ok on their own? Start by feeding your puppy in their crate during meal times. If they seem worried by you leaving, stay in view, and just pop right outside their confinement area. Keep it short and sweet: No need to stay away for long, 60 seconds tops will do for now. Repeat: Do this at least once a day to make progress go steady and smoothly. Socialization Exercises To Do this week Letting your Labrador puppy explore the yard Besides the gnomes and questionable yard furniture you may have, letting your puppy explore your own yard is a great and safe way to start showing them the sounds, lights and wonders of the outside world. Exploring different surfaces exercise Make sure that the surfaces you use are safe — nothing too crazy just yet. Gather surfaces such as An oven tray with a small layer of water A piece of astro turf A carpet tile A large piece of tin foil, cardboard or something crinkly PRO TIP: Set up for this exercise in the room your puppy spends most of their time in — it will help them to feel safe and confident. Pop the surfaces out safely on the floor and allow your puppy to investigate them. Nobody has ever enjoyed walking on those. Remember to be patient! Lucky for you — teaching them their name is easy peasy. Say their name in a happy jolly tone and reward with a treat. Repeat five times, 5 and take a break. Practice this 2 or 3 times a day so they get the hang of it. Teach your puppy to sit Teaching your puppy how to sit is a popular one. The first two are far more common though. Keep using this word when they do the right thing, and then follow it up with a food reward. In puppy logic, stinky means yummy. How to do it Start at home; where there are no distractions. Just make sure to shut off Gogglebox in the background. Recall — How to teach our Labrador puppy to come back when called Your puppy already knows their name at this point, so this should be a walk in the park. How to do it Treats and a cheerful voice will be what works here. Do these exercises before meal times so your puppy is more motivated. Practice this 5 times a day and in 3 different places in your house and yard to get them used to coming to you in all settings. How to do it Show your puppy that you have their favorite toy, and start to get them excited about it. When they show interest, throw it a little bit away from you. They will likely follow it and pick it up. If they do, encourage them back to you with your voice, so remember to sound happy! Swap the toy for a treat or another toy and do the process again. Repeat this about 5 times. Instead create more distance and excitement sounds to get them to come to you — spaniels like to show off, so they will likely want to parade what they have! Always swap the toy for something when they have it, this could be a treat or another toy. Resource guarding occurs when we force puppies to give up items or snatch things out of their mouths. For breeds like Labradors who are designed to want to hold things in their mouths, this is pretty important! Resource guarding is when a dog protects a resource from being taken by someone else — dog or human. For some reason, there is a solid list of things puppies find irresistible: Socks. Print Early obedience first step to better hunting dog Labrador puppies start out sweet and innocent. All you want to do is cuddle up with your pup and love them! And you should! But rest assured the innocence will not last. As your pup gains confidence and courage, they will begin to test you in many ways. That is why you must obedience train your Labrador puppy. Early obedience training is key to establishing borders and boundaries that will help your puppy grow, learn, and adjust with a good attitude. There is no shortcut to doing this, just use the name often when you talk to your puppy. Over time, the pup will start to respond to the name. Socialization, while not technically obedience training, is the single most important thing you can teach your puppy during the first few months of life. If you are not sure how to do this, refer to this post. Tools needed to obedience train Labrador puppy You will need a few tools to teach your puppy obedience. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Collar — You should purchase a size appropriate collar for your new puppy. You may have to buy new ones as your dog grows, but it is important for your puppy to get used to wearing a collar early on. A simple nylon adjustable collar works great. Chain collar — If your puppy is more than a few months old, a chain or prong collar is extremely helpful in teaching obedience, but they must be used correctly. For more information on how to put a chain collar on your dog correctly refer to this video. A longer lead, called a check cord, is also useful for teaching HERE and retrieving. You can learn more about that here. Heeling stick optional — While optional, a heeling stick can be especially helpful in teaching basic obedience. Treats — Treats are good for teaching very young puppies. I use treats for pups under 12 weeks of age, but treats should be discontinued rather quickly. When to start basic puppy obedience training Obedience training can and should start within the first couple weeks of having your puppy home. Young puppies are ready and willing to learn and teaching obedience to a young puppy is much easier than teaching it to an older dog. How long should obedience sessions be? Most labs do not enjoy obedience training. For this reason, we aim to keep obedience sessions short, especially if your dog is under 4-months of age. Five to ten minutes of obedience a day can work wonders. Especially if you are consistent. Using rewards or praise to teach obedience Many people like to use treats or rewards for obedience training. And this can work, especially with very young dogs. But for hunting dogs, over the long-term treats can become a problem. We do not want our dogs, or the dogs we train to be obedient only because they are getting a food reward. We want them to be obedient because they understand their place in the family and respect the owners. To get these lasting results, we use praise words and petting and a reward that retrievers live for — retrieves! Well-timed praise is a particularly important part of dog training. A message that it is okay to ignore me the first 9 times! This simply means that after a few minutes of formal obedience training, we release the dog with an OKAY command and that means they can run around and be a dog. We then throw a bumper or plug a for the dog to retriever. We do this a few times with a lot of excitement and allow the dog to retrieve the bumper. For retriever breeds, this is often more effective than a food reward. Be careful that you are not letting your puppy get into bad habits with retrieving. For instance, if your puppy often goes out to retrieve the bumper but then runs away with it, or picks it up and drops it, do not continue doing retrieves. While retrieving is a reward for many Labs, it is not an excuse to engage in behaviors that are not going to be acceptable in the field. If you want to learn more about how to properly teach your Lab to retrieve, check out How can I teach my retriever puppy to fetch? Introduction to leash and nylon collar The very first step for any puppy obedience is to introduce your puppy to a regular collar and leash. This should be done in two separate steps, first the collar and then the leash. Introduce the collar by putting a nylon type collar on your puppy. This is normal and you should not react to it. Introducing the leash is a little different. We like to do this outside. After a few sessions of this introduction, you can start holding the leash by the end and walking with the puppy. When the puppy tries to run or walk away, hold tight to the leash, and just let the puppy get used to the resistance. Some puppies have a hard time with this and will growl or whine and whip themselves around at the pressure, but most will not. Remain calm and after a few sessions the puppy should get used to the resistance of the leash. Do not allow the puppy to pull you around. That will make for some bad behaviors that you will need to correct later. If you cannot control your puppy with just a regular collar and leash, you may need to move to a chain or prong collar to keep control. What commands to teach Lab puppy There are only four basic obedience commands that you need to teach your young puppy. Remember when it comes to commands, less is more. OKAY — this is a release command, basically tells your dog were done training, go be a dog. As your puppy grows and learns more, there are some other commands that may be needed, but for puppies I like to start with just the four above. Dog training requires consistency Before you start with obedience training, I want to make a note about the importance of consistency. Obedience training only works if you are consistent. This means that when you say a command, you expect the puppy to perform the command, and are willing to take steps to make the puppy perform the command. If you do not remain consistent in this expectation, you will confuse your dog and get poor results from your training. You and your family must be consistent! How to start obedience training Lab puppy The first command you want to start teaching your puppy is SIT. This is quite easy to teach with a small puppy but gets a little tougher as they get bigger. Then release the puppy with the OKAY command. Repeat this process several times, then stop. If your puppy is weeks old, you can repeat this training several times a day for only a couple minutes at a time. This will be a two-person job for a little while. The other person will put the food down a few feet from the puppy. Then release the puppy to eat saying OKAY. As the pup learns and understands the command better, you will no longer need a second person to hold the puppy. You must be a little careful here because young puppies do not have great bladder control and making them wait, even a few seconds, can mean the difference between an accident and them doing their business outside. But this is a great way to teach impulse control and manners to your puppy. I do not want to have to fight for a position by the door. You can usually start working on this within a week or two of teaching SIT. A great way to teach this command to young puppies is to use two people and sit in a long hallway, one at each end. Take turns calling your puppy with a HERE command. A toy or treat can often help the process. Let your puppy run around a bit but hold onto the end of the cord. Occasionally, call you puppy with a HERE command. It can be helpful at first to crouch down to encourage the puppy to run towards you. Then release the puppy with an OKAY command. Do this a few more times and repeat daily until the puppy is coming to you without you needing to pull the cord. It is also the command most of our clients struggle with the most. Mostly because they are using the wrong tool for the job. For heeling work, it is important that you work with a chain or prong collar. This will give you more control and stop the pulling and surging that many people struggle with. Using a chain or prong collar and a six-foot leash, start walking your puppy at your side. If your puppy is young, be sure to use a puppy chain collar which is smaller than chain collars for adult dogs. And make sure that you are putting it on correctly! An alternate tool to a chain collar and leash is the Wonder or Command Lead. These work great for teaching HEEL. As you start walking use gently tugs on the chain collar with the command HERE to keep your puppy at your side. If your puppy surges or pulls ahead, simply make a degree turn and start walking the other direction giving a sharp, upward tug on the chain collar and saying HEEL several times until the dog is back in a heeling position. Many of our clients have told us they never left their driveway the first few days! But if you are patient and consistent, your dog will quickly learn that if they want to go for a walk, they need to stay at your side. If you want to learn and progress in more obedience work, check out these obedience drills for retrievers. Final thoughts on how to teach your lab puppy obedience Teaching your puppy obedience may take a lot of patience, time and work, but it is such an important thing to do. You will never regret the time! A well-mannered dog is such a joy to be around both in the home and in the field. How to obedience train Labrador puppy. Are Lab puppies trainable too? They include intelligence, temperament, and genetic traits. As a rule, dogs that are highly motivated are also the easiest to train. Labradors are highly motivated by two things. But even more than that, they are are incredibly motivated by the promise of a tasty treat or two. One study actually found a gene alteration in Labs that gives them greater food motivation. This could explain why Labs have a reputation for always being hungry. Their origins can be traced back to the cross-breeding of working dogs in the s. From these modest roots, the ever-devoted and hard-working St. Life on Newfoundland revolved around fishing, and these able-bodied dogs were well-suited to the water. Working together in a cooperative way in this harsh climate forged a close bond between these reliable working dogs and their human companions. A study of Labrador Retrievers found that the working status of the breed impacted their trainability. The Labrador Retriever possesses a solid body and alert senses. This, combined with an innate work ethic, genial nature, and intelligent temperament, makes him an ideal candidate for a wide variety of service jobs. Search and rescue, detection, disabled-assistance, and therapy work are service areas that the Lab excels in. The fact that Labs have been found to be among the least aggressive breeds toward humans and other dogs also makes them suitable for these roles. However, intelligence alone does not necessarily denote trainability. There are breeds who are intelligent, but stubborn and less willing to learn. This natural obedience makes them not only trainable, but loyal and dependable. Are Lab Puppies Easy to Train? Puppy socialization and training is important in determining their future behavior. Labs are energetic dogs who grow quickly. The bigger they get the harder it is to control them. Puppies as young as 8 weeks old can begin a training routine. Coming when called, sitting, staying, and walking on a lead without pulling, are important skills, especially for a large dog. As their name suggests, the Labrador Retriever was bred to retrieve prey. Today the breed still retains the instinct to chase objects and bring them back to you. So be prepared for many rousing games of fetch. Training methods have changed over the last few years and positive techniques have become increasingly popular. Rewards are a key element when training a Lab. The use of treats and praise to reinforce proper behavior is one of the best ways to get them to respond the way you want. This type of training is referred to as positive reinforcement training. When Are Labs Hard to Train? No puppy understands how to behave in the human world without being shown. This loving breed is very social and loves to be around people. If they are kept isolated from companionship, they are quite likely to develop behavior problems that make them harder to train. There are different ways to train your Labrador Retriever. This endearing, active dog only wants to receive as much love as he can give. Has your Lab impressed you with their good manners and how quickly they pick up commands? Is there anything you credit with their success most of all? Give your dog some praise, share what works for you, or ask for the support of our other readers down in the comments box. Their specific disposition not only makes them highly trainable — it also makes them excellent service and all-around work dogs. Begin early, use positive reinforcement, train in short sessions, and attend a puppy class or two. Are Labrador Retrievers Easy to Train? Many professional dog trainers and Labrador Retriever owners would argue that high intelligence and trainability go hand-in-hand, since they can learn more commands and tricks quicker and more accurately than other breeds. Male Lab Puppy vs. There are stark differences between the ways males and females tend to behave in the animal world. Although both male and female Labs are excellent companions, females mature faster than males and may be easier to train. They just might require a bit more attention, practice, and patience. Helping Your Labrador Train Well You already know that Labs are one of the most intelligent and trainable breeds, but there are instances in which they may be pretty challenging to train. Ultimately, this comes down to the way owners socialize and exercise their Labs: Labrador Retrievers are a very energetic breed. It could even develop into behavior problems that may be difficult to correct later down the line. This is when he learns the fastest, when he most readily masters new tasks and when he adapts most readily to new environments. The must-know basics are loose leash walking, basic commands, and crate training. You can begin as early as 8 weeks and see results shortly after. Luckily, these dogs are more than willing to learn from you. Start early, use positive reinforcement, train in short sessions, and consider signing your labrador retriever up for socialization classes when your dog has all of the core vaccines. Labrador Training Tip 1: Start Early The best advice that any owner or breeder can give new owners is to start early. Research shows that early training reaps tons of benefits, such as: Alleviating fear and aggression while in a new environment Developing a more profound and stronger bond with their owners By six months of age, almost all behavior problems are set in place. Therefore, early training can avoid issues and bad habits before they start or become more challenging to work with. Labrador Training Tip 2: Use Positive Reinforcement There are different training methods, the most common being positive reinforcement, clicker training, electronic training, and alpha dog training. Research shows that dogs trained using exclusively positive reinforcement methods have a more secure attachment to their owners. Florence Gaunet , the leader of the study that observed positive versus negative reinforcement training in dogs. Image Source Clicker training practices positive reinforcement with the help of sound: When a dog does a wanted behavior, the clicker clicks immediately following the action. Clicker training is an especially helpful tactic because it shows the puppy the desired behavior. However, the puppy needs to associate the clicking sound with a reward. This tactic can sometimes be challenging to try as a novice trainer, so many owners opt for puppy training classes where they can receive some guidance. Yet, this particular method is frequently used in service dog training sessions. Labrador Training Tip 3: Keep Training Sessions Short But Frequent Puppies are like toddlers: Their ability to concentrate is naturally short, requiring stimulation if you want to hold their attention. Otherwise, they may become distracted, get bored, and stop paying attention. Most dogs have an attention span of about 15 minutes before they get bored, tired, and begin resisting commands, so a good rule of thumb is to aim for at least 15 minutes of training every day in five-minute increments. Incredibly distracted puppies may need shorter sessions, like two to three minutes, a few extra times a day. Quick Tip: Train in every room of your house so that your puppy recognizes cues in different places. Veterinary behaviorist Dr. Ian Dunbar recommends that your puppy meet at least people of different appearances, backgrounds, and abilities during his first month at home or at least three months. One of the best ways to do that is by attending socialization classes. Plus, class participation leads to a well-rounded, happy, and willing puppy which directly translates to ease of training. Simply put, certain traits are more likely to be shared by genetically-similar breeds. Therefore, they should all be registered with the American Kennel Club, offer full-replacement guarantees, conduct ethical breeding practices, interview prospective owners , and allow on-site tours and meet-and-greets with the puppies and their parents. Conclusion Labrador Retrievers are some of the smartest and easiest dogs to train, partly due to their genetics and partly due to the way they are raised. If you want a dog that is easy to train, start training your pup early and use positive reinforcement techniques like treats or clickers with short training sessions. Learn more about what we do at Snowy Pines, or come visit our Labrador puppies at our acre property nestled in the Ozark Mountains. Share on. Labrador Retriever pups are working dogs. This means they live to please you for a treat. The more you engage them with different puppy training behaviors the happier they will be. Of course, Labs will be Labs, and this means that dogs do dog things unless they are trained to follow your expectations. Potty training your puppy is just the beginning of you making clear expectations for your Lab. Puppy training from long leash training to potty training, to not nipping is discussed in greater detail along with clear, easy to follow videos at www. But we will give you an expert training tip summary below. For this reason, you need to become an expert on puppy training. Contact us for a discount on the Puppy Trained Right positive reinforcement training program. Expose your puppy to as many different people and situations possible. Teach dog to dog manners when required. Use Positive Reinforcement. Allow for Play with Other Puppies. Play with other Lab Puppies not only allows your pup to get some exercise it is a form of puppy socialization. Bond with your Puppy. Once a strong bond is formed your Lab Puppy will want to please you even more. Potty Train Right Away. Learn how Dogs Learn. Training a Lab puppy is easy if you understand how to go about it. Give your Lab Puppy Play time to Explore. Labs need this as part of their natural development. Spend more time with your puppy when young. This is the time when your expectations should be clearly outlined and can decrease as she gets older. Begin Training day 1. This happens weather or not you intend it to. Every action and reaction is something your puppy uses to form new habits. So ignoring them jumping up as an 8 week old puppy is training them to jump up and will be much more difficult to un-train once they are 70 lbs. Relax and make learning fun. Your pup needs you happy and enjoying yourself! Use Positive Training Methods because they work. This means reward what you desire. Ensure most Experiences are Positive. Imagine a training session of No, No, No, No! Expose them to as Many Human Situations possible. One cause is that there was not adequate socialization with different men. Be Patient. You are building an amazing K9 personality. The window is between 8 and 20 weeks old. Make the most of it. The better your Lab is socialized the happier they will be. Anxiety in dogs comes from many things. The more things your dog is comfortable with the less chance for anxiety and therefore the happier they are. Prepare yourself, your family and your home before your puppy comes home. It is too late once you meet your puppy as simply interacting with her is training. Allow for Safe Experiences both in the home and outside. Seek professional trainers to help guide you when faced with a problem. Be consistent. Clear expectations are easiest to learn. Focus on Guiding not controlling. Best Start Training or Training Classes are beneficial for both you and your puppy. Expect Success. We tend to move in the direction we believe we will travel. Reward the Behaviors you want to see even something as simple as 4 paws on the ground if you are trying to train your Lab not to jump up on you. Become Well informed. You are teaching a skill like reading that takes clear expectations and builds upon last session. Lab Puppies need constant supervision either human, a crate, a fenced area or a baby gate across a doorway. Encourage a soft mouth. Keep your training up or it will be forgotten. Begin Walking on a Loose Leash Right away. This is always easier for your Lab when they are 12 lbs not 70lbs. Change direction before the leash tightens so they are followers not leaders. This is much easier to train before it happens than correct. Allow alone time for your Lab. Know when to end a training session. End training before your puppy quits. Make time for a few shorter training Sessions. Three fifteen minute sessions are better than one 45 min one. Teach your Lab to respond to their name. Teach your Labrador basic obedience before tricks-come, sit, stay, down, leave it. Have all humans learn the commands and be consistent. Ignore undesirable behaviors. Ignoring includes not saying no, bad dog, touching your dog or making eye contact. Find rewards that your Retriever loves and use them when you have breakthrough training moments. Adjust your expectations as your Lab puppy matures, the older more experienced the higher the expectation. Set Realistic Expectations. Minimize distractions when you begin training. Be aware of your Body Language, Labradors pick up cues from you. Be aware of your leash tension. A tight leash says anxiety from the handler. Know when to get Help .Have fun! Understand that Labs do Lab things. Make them work for food and treats. Exercise your Retriever properly for both intensity and duration. Learn some exercise games Labs love. Give lots of repetition. Stop before they get bored. Establish a Pattern by Praising. Redirect undesired behavior. Accept partial actions at first and gradually increase your expectations. When treats end Verbal treats and chin scratches rule. They will know. Enjoy your well balanced purebred Lab puppy for many years. Purebred Lab Retrievers, are they easier to train? The answer to that is definitely maybe! Not all purebreds are bred for intelligence. For example, if a Labrador Retriever breeder chooses to breed their dogs for a certain look then they may overlook intelligence as one of the important characteristics in order to get a specific Lab look. We however breed for intelligence, health and temperament. So in our case, yes, our Purebred Lab Puppies are easier to train than many because we choose the parents and their puppies specifically for their smarts!

But at the moment, they need your guidance. For now, this includes sleeping next to you for the first few weeks, maybe even longer. Just have their crate or bed close to wherever you sleep. Our articles on sleeping through the night and establishing a nighttime routine will give you extra tips on getting through this phase. A puzzle toy or Kong will work great at making them feel like you leaving them is actually something quite fun. Toilet training All new puppy parents expect toilet training to be on the cards. It will help to remember your Boxer pup is a bit of a goofball. For now, we definitely want to let your pup get used to you and settle into their new home. Teach your puppy about surfaces — Different surfaces can feel strange to pups. Use surfaces like grass, moss, paving and sand. Basically, make their tail wag and we bet yours will too. Teach your Boxer their name. Teach your Boxer puppy to sit. Remember what we said about Boxers and their jumping? Recall — Trust us. Preventing resource guarding Resource guarding is where your dog fiercely protects something they have and will do everything they can to keep hold of it. Dogs can resource guard food, a toy, even a person. You can do this by teaching them that hands and touch can be a good thing. As always, back up your soft touches with some treats. Remember that consent is also a thing with dogs! Never force your Boxer to be handled or pick them up against their wishes. Socialisation exercises to do this week Training to do this week Husbandry Tasks to do this week — Fireworks — Watch the world go by outside your house — Play dress up. They love spending time with their owners and letting their playful and fun characters shine through. They are eager to please and very loyal dogs. Originally Boxers were bred to be working dogs, which is why they have such high exercise needs and energy to spare! Common health problems in Boxers Boxers are intelligent dogs who are very loyal to their families. Sadly, like many other purebred dogs, they are prone to certain conditions. If you are thinking of buying a Boxer puppy , make sure the parents of your puppy have had the relevant health screening to reduce the chances of your puppy being affected by certain conditions. Some of the conditions Boxers may develop include: Brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome BOAS — this can cause severe breathing problems in some Boxers with shorter faces. Epilepsy — a brain disorder causing seizures. Eye problems — such as corneal ulcers due to the shape of their skulls and prominence of the eyes. Heart problems — such as cardiomyopathy or aortic stenosis. Before breeding, parents should be screened. Skin problems - such as warts, skin tags, skin allergies and soreness in skin folds around the face skin fold dermatitis. Certain cancers. If you want to minimise the risk of your dog getting problems, you can read our advice on choosing a pedigree dog. Caring for your boxer Boxers are fun and active dogs who can be high maintenance due to their exercise needs. If you love getting out and about walking, they could be a good breed for you! A large secure garden is a must if you have a Boxer so they have plenty of space to blow off steam. Boxers can be very boisterous so do better with an experienced and patient! Boxers and barking Your Boxer is likely to make noise and how much they do make will be down to their training and personality. Boxers are naturally very good guard dogs and so are more likely to bark to make their owners aware of any comings and goings around the home. Training and socialisation Boxers are clever dogs but can be boisterous, so positive, reward-based training from a young age is really important. Boxers mature a lot slower than other breeds, so having a large amount of puppy energy in such a big dog can be challenging for some owners. You need to handle your Boxer with a firm but fair attitude and make sure you are patient and consistent. They can be boisterous so make sure you train them not to jump up at people from a young age. Boxers love human company so can develop separation anxiety if left alone. If they are alone or bored, they like to chew which means your furniture and belongings will be at risk! Exercise Boxers are very high energy, active dogs who love playing and being involved in everything going on. They keep their puppy attitude longer than most dogs so you might find your Boxer rarely has a calm moment at home! Your Boxer will need a minimum of two hours exercise every day. This should be split into a few walks with plenty of opportunities for sniffing around and exploring. You should also give your Boxer plenty of time to exercise off lead somewhere secure so they can have a good run around. On top of this, your Boxer will also need regular, short training sessions. They will also need lots of playtime and free time in the garden to do what they want. Grooming Boxers are fairly low maintenance when it comes to grooming. They have short fur which only needs a weekly brush to keep it in good condition. As with any dog, you should expect your Boxer to shed throughout the year, more so in spring and autumn. A regular hoover should be enough to keep on top of it. Due to the excess skin around their faces, Boxers are at risk of developing a condition called skin fold dermatitis. Boxers and children Generally speaking, Boxers are good around children of all ages given the right training. An adult only home or one with teenagers is better for a Boxer. Always supervise your dog with children and vulnerable adults. Puppy socialisation classes are a great way to get your pup used to new dogs. Early socialisation will help your dog get along well other dogs as an adult. They may get along OK with a cat they have grown up with, but you should always supervise your Boxer with smaller pets. Your vet will be able to tell you how much your Boxer should be eating. You should feed them a good quality, commercially available, complete dog food. We usually recommend splitting their daily allowance into two meals. If you give your dog the occasional treat or use treats for training, remember to take this into account and reduce their daily allowance. Try to feed your dog at similar times every day as they like routine. Remember to leave a gap between eating and exercising. Beware unusually cheap puppies as they could come from a puppy farm. These breeders must do extra health tests and meet higher standards. Set-up costs Puppy vaccines — if you rescue a dog, reputable centres will often vaccinate them for you. Remember that ongoing booster vaccinations will be needed to continue their immunity. Neutering — you should usually arrange for your dog to be neutered at around months old, though your vet will be able to advise you exactly when is best. Check prices at your local practice as these will depend on your vet and where you live. Some rescue centres will neuter any dogs they rehome, saving you this cost. Equipment — including a collar and tags, lead, harness, dog beds, dog bowls, pet-safe toothpaste and toothbrushes, grooming brushes and toys. Keep in mind that all these will need to be replaced with wear or damage or if your dog outgrows or damages them! Ongoing costs Food. Preventive healthcare — budget for routine vet visits to help stop your dog getting ill and catch any problems early. They need annual check-ups, vaccinations and regular flea and worming treatments. Check if your vet offers a health care plan as this can help spread the cost throughout the year. Accessories — including lots of poo bags, replacing worn toys and grooming accessories, buying doggy toothpaste and any other extras they might need. Other costs Training — basic training is very important and dogs can benefit from formal classes. Some dogs may have, or develop, behavioural problems which might need professional management. Boarding — you may also need to budget for boarding or dog sitting costs if you are planning to go away from home on holiday. If you are having difficulty with veterinary costs, you can check if you are eligible for treatment at PDSA here. Get ready with the ear plugs, because Boxers are known for loud snoring! Boxers originated in Germany in the s so are considered a fairly new breed. Getting a Boxer Do plenty of research before getting a Boxer. These playful and lively dogs keep their puppy ways well into their adult years so need an understanding owner with plenty of time and patience! Boxers can be really loving in the right household and will love spending time with you. Rehoming centres There are plenty of rescue centres across the country where you may find a Boxer. Breed-specific rescues that specialise in Boxers are also out there. Good rescue centres should let you know of any health and behaviour problems. Breeders If you buy from a breeder, make sure your puppy will be well socialised and have all necessary screening tests, health checks and vaccinations. We recommend looking for a Kennel Club Assured breeder as they meet higher standards.

Find more Boxer puppies for sale in closest states: Colorado , Kansas , Oklahoma , Utah , Arizona , Texas If you have never owned a Boxer before, or are interested in reading more information, check out our Boxer Dog Breed Information page. Latest Dog Articles Most common digestion puppy's diseases We don't like to think of our new puppy falling sick with puppy disease. But youngsters get sick quicker and take longer to get well than adults. It's vital to recognize sick puppy behavior, signs and symptoms of puppy illness, and how to know when you ca How to Defend Yourself against a Mad Dog According to World Health Organization about citizens require emergency care treatment on a daily basis for dog bite injury. Also, about 4. Now, those are insanely alarming statistics. But they are tru Dog Care Tips Few things in life are more fun and rewarding than bringing a dog into your family. Your dog will offer your family years of love and loyalty — as long as you provide him with food, shelter, responsible care, and love in return. Please consider volunteering with Boxer Rescue to help us help our four legged friends. We need volunteers to help with website maintenance, Facebook maintenance, accounts payable, domain registrations, email correspondence and regulatory filings. Please email us to learn how you can help! Donations of any amount are welcome. Your generosity is what keeps us able to rescue abandoned Boxers and provide them with a second chance at life. Save a Boxer Today! Dogs are more than just a pet, they are a family too. We are a nonprofit organization recognized as a c 3 charitable dog rescue group that serves the state of New Mexico. As we care for displaced Boxer pups, we wish that no dog ends up unwanted, lost, homeless, abused, or injured. Get to know more about us today. Our organization has been in existence since and has found loving homes for hundreds of Boxers. Our goal is to care for and to be a voice for those Boxers that have been forsaken for whatever reason and to find loving, nurturing forever homes. Most of our volunteers have full time jobs but find the time to schedule and transport our rescued Boxers to local veterinary clinics. Our volunteers review applications and perform home visits. Our volunteers transport surrendered and rescued Boxers around New Mexico. Our volunteers also spend many days and nights in our local veterinary emergency clinics. Our volunteers face death for those Boxers that have been in our hospice care. Our volunteers also attend our adoption events twice a month. Bottom Line: Our volunteers are instrumental in the journey of our rescued boxers and we could not do what we do without their support and dedication.

Our website is dedicated to connecting you with reputable English Bulldog breeders across the USA, ensuring that you bring home a healthy and happy furry companion without breaking the bank. Finding the perfect English Bulldog puppy at an affordable price can be a challenging task. However, our platform simplifies the process by curating a list of trusted English Bulldog breeders who offer these delightful companions at budget-friendly rates. We understand that everyone deserves the opportunity to experience the joy and companionship that a lovable English Bulldog can bring to their lives. History of English bulldog puppies Cheap near you! The national dog of England, their strong heads, loose skin and short legs give them a very distinctive, amusing appearance. Bulldogs are generally gentle, affectionate dogs that love to be around their families. They are excellent with children and have a medium-low activity level that makes them great for apartment or city living. These loveable dogs are loyal to a fault and are sure to make you smile. English Bulldogs are calm, non-sporting dogs with a sourmug face that love to chew and play tug-of-war. British Bulldogs rarely bark but snore, snort, wheeze, grunt, and snuffle instead. Bulldogs are a people-oriented, loyal and devoted watchdogs that love to nap by your side. Temperament of english bulldogs Temperament is a crucial factor to consider when bringing a new furry friend into your life. English Bulldogs are known for their gentle, friendly, and affectionate nature. They make excellent companions and are particularly good with children, making them a fantastic choice for families. Despite their somewhat serious expression, they have a fun-loving and playful side that will bring joy to your everyday life. This Bulldog puppy is a very social and sweet baby girl who loves everyone she meets! She is raised with children that play with her daily. This gal will steal your heart the second you look into those puppy eyes and when she gives you one of her famous puppy kisses. She will make a fantastic addition to any family. This puppy is AKC registered, vet checked, vaccinated, wormed and comes with a 1 year genetic health guarantee. Her momma is Kayla. This puppy is anxious to meet her new family and begin her life of adventure with you! Call now! At cheappuppiesforsale. These lovable puppies are perfect for anyone looking for an affordable family pet. English Bulldogs are small, fun dogs that require minimal training. They are known for their clownish personalities and love of cuddles. History of English bulldog puppies English bulldog puppies are a completely man-made breed. The national dog of England, their strong heads, loose skin and short legs give them a very distinctive, amusing appearance. Bulldogs are generally gentle, affectionate dogs that love to be around their families. They are excellent with children and have a medium-low activity level that makes them great for apartment or city living. These loveable dogs are loyal to a fault and are sure to make you smile. English Bulldogs are calm, non-sporting dogs with a sourmug face that love to chew and play tug-of-war. British Bulldogs rarely bark but snore, snort, wheeze, grunt, and snuffle instead. Bulldogs are a people-oriented, loyal and devoted watchdogs that love to nap by your side. Unlike other breeders, We choose parents not based on champion bloodlines and registry, but on health, temperament, and looks. As a result, cheappuppiesforsale. From this breed of dogs and others,We and our staff offer a variety of healthy, attractive pups 8 weeks of age and older, all of whom are ready for a loving family and home. As a leading national seller of bulldogs, cheappuppiesforsale. The website maintains an extensive FAQ section, where Howard fields questions about the breed regarding health, fitness, care, and maintenance. Look at this adorable face! She is a real charmer so you will not be able to say no to her. This English Bulldog puppy is raised with children, friendly, fun-loving and ready to meet her new family. This baby is AKC registered, vet checked, vaccinated, wormed and comes with a 1 year genetic health guarantee. Make this cutie your cuddle buddy and she will be the perfect addition that you have been searching for! Sex: Female.

Degenerative Myelopathy Von Willebrand Disease Perhaps the most well-known is hip dysplasia, a condition that causes the hip joint to develop abnormally. This can lead to pain and lameness, and eventually requiring surgery. German Shepherds are also at risk for elbow dysplasia, a similar condition that affects the elbow joint. Other common health problems include allergies, intestinal issues, and eye problems. With proper care and diet, however, German Shepherds can live long and healthy lives. Finding a German Shepherd puppy for sale from a reputable breeder can dramatically — although, not eliminate — the risk of your dog developing some of these conditions. While German Shepherds are often considered to be low-maintenance when it comes to grooming, their coats do require some care and attention. The most important thing to know about German Shepherd coat care is that the breed does not shed uniformly throughout the year. After the shedding period has ended, you can reduce the frequency of brushing to once or twice a week. In addition to regular brushing, German Shepherds also need to be bathed on occasion. How often you need to bathe your German Shepherd will depend on factors such as how often they play outside and whether they have any allergies or skin sensitivities. Generally speaking, however, a once-monthly bath is sufficient for most dogs. German Shepherd Puppies For Sale. Life Span Did You Know? The German Shepherd is one of the most versatile, well-recognized, and popular dog breeds in the world. The modern German Shepherd is descended from a family of various German herding dogs. Breed standards were not developed until the late 19th century when Captain Max von Stephanitz, a German cavalry officer, worked with Arthur Meyer and other breeders to develop the ideal German herding dog. Stephanitz and Meyer wrote the breed standard in and the American Kennel Club recognized the German Shepherd as a member of the Herding Group in .Although they were originally bred as herding dogs, they were also bred for versatility, which made the German Shepherd an all-around working dog that could excel in a variety of applications. German Shepherds are one of the common dog breeds employed in K-9 units in both police and military applications. They also make great service dogs and, of course, are still awesome herding dogs and farm dogs! The German Shepherd is a strong-willed and highly intelligent dog. They have a playful, energetic spirit and tend to get along with children, other dogs, and other pets, which makes them a great family companion. A born protector, the German Shepherd will provide a great sense of security for their family while their loving and lively personality will make them fit right in as a companion. German Shepherds are naturally protective and can be wary of strangers at first. A well-socialized German Shepherd will bark to alert you and tends to warm up to strangers once introduced. German Shepherds are dogs that were bred to herd and work. This, plus their high energy, makes them a better fit for homes with fenced yards where they can run. They can adapt well to larger apartments as long as plenty of time is dedicated to ensuring they get enough exercise, mental stimulation, and attention every day. A bored, ignored, or under-exercised German Shepherd can often become a destructive one. They also can be sensitive to their surroundings and large gatherings can be off-putting. With a longer coat, they tend to prefer cooler climates and are sensitive to heat. The German Shepherd is a generally healthy breed, but there are some potential health concerns and good breeding practices make a big difference. Potential health concerns to be aware of in a German Shepherd include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia , and degenerative myelopathy. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. So, make sure you are asking about the health and genetic history of both parents. You can also ask about any health tests or clearances that have been done. As a barrel-chested breed, the German Shepherd is also at risk for bloat. While the German Shepherd is highly intelligent and highly trainable, they are generally not recommended for novice owners. If you are a novice dog owner, enroll in puppy training classes or enlist the help of a professional dog trainer; not just for your dog, but for yourself as well. Training assistance will help you grow in experience and build a strong bond between you and your German Shepherd puppy, which is essential. Also, the GSD has a thirst for training and fulfillment. They get bored easily and especially with repetition, so continued training with your German Shepherd throughout their life will be necessary. German Shepherds have a medium-to-long double coat. They will shed year-round and heavier as seasons change. Brushing a few times a week is usually sufficient; brushing daily is even better and your GSD will likely love you for it. Bathing is occasional on an as-needed basis. Ear checks weekly with careful cleanings as needed can help prevent ear infections. German Shepherds are high-energy working dogs. Not only do they require a lot of daily activity, but they also are a herding breed that was made to run, guard, and observe, so they need a job to do to be happy and healthy. Daily walks plus playtime, time to run, and other activities are usually enough for a GSD, but they will likely be up for more activity if you are. With their versatility and athleticism, you can try a lot of different activities when puppies finish growing and they are cleared for higher-impact things. A fully-grown German Shepherd usually stands inches tall and weighs pounds. German Shepherds generally live for years on average. Corporal Duncan brought him back to the United States and Rin-Tin-Tin became one of the most famous dog actors in history. Featured German Shepherd Article.

All dogs are unique and grow at their own rate. Pro Tip: Check out our complete guide to puppy care to ensure your Lab gets off to a great start. As a medium to large breed, Labrador Retrievers need at least one year to reach their full size. A general rule of thumb suggests your Lab should be at or close to its full size by their first birthday. However, bigger-boned Lab puppies can keep growing and filling out their chest up to 18 months old. How big should a 6-month-old Labrador Retriever be? The average Lab weight at six months old is about 40 to 55 pounds for males or 30 to 35 pounds for females. Please keep in mind that these numbers are averages, and every puppy will grow at a slightly different rate. How much bigger will my Labrador Retriever get? There are three ways to predict the size of a Labrador Retriever at maturity: Age. Labrador Retrievers typically reach their full height and weight around their first birthday. Larger Labs may need up to 18 months to fill out their chest, but any weight gain after 12 months should be minimal overall. If your Lab is less than a year old, they are likely still growing and putting on muscle to reach their adult size. Paw Size. If their paws look oversized next to their legs and body, then they are probably still growing, as this is a classic puppy feature. Lastly, if you purchased your Lab through a breeder, you can contact them for a more exact height and weight estimate. What is the size of a full-grown Labrador Retriever? A full-grown Labrador Retriever weighs between 65 and 80 pounds and stands about .The average weight of a full-grown female Labrador Retriever should be about 55 to 70 pounds, standing at .Make sure to consult with your veterinarian to ensure that your Lab is maintaining a healthy weight for its body size. The Labrador Retriever growth rate should be indicative of its athletic body and muscular build. Did you know. ? Their webbed paws made them strong swimmers, along with their otter tail, which acts like a powerful rudder when retrieving ducks. English nobles spotted the dogs and brought them home across the Atlantic, where breeders continued to refine the breed into its own variation. Between their friendly demeanor, adaptability, and outgoing disposition, they make ideal family members. As cherished members of our families, Labs deserve the best care. Unfortunately, like many other purebred dogs, Labrador Retrievers are more susceptible to various health issues. Some of the most common examples include:. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. Labrador retrievers are beloved family members. But too much of a good thing—food and treats—can lead to many potential health problems. If your Labrador Retriever is starting to get a little pooch in his belly your might be thinking how much should my lab weigh? But there are many factors that enter into what determines a healthy weight for your particular lab. And female labs should weigh between 55 and 70 pounds and be between .But keep in mind that even healthy labs may fall outside of these guidelines. There are many variables that enter into why a dog is a particular weight, including the following: Genetics. The parents and family tree of a lab determine his potential size and structure. Diet and nutrition. In order to reach his potential, a lab requires the proper diet for his stage of life and activity level. A lab who is a couch potato will generally require fewer calories than one who is active. Female labs usually weigh less than male labs at the same life stage. English vs. American Labrador Retrievers Although there is no recognized separate breed of English and American labs , in reality there are distinctions regarding their breeding. English labs are bred for the conformation ring and generally weigh in at the higher end of the desired range for labs. And they may weigh even 20 more pounds than American labs without being overweight. American labs, aka field-bred labs, are bred from working lines, in order to hunt. They are leaner and more muscular than English labs. There is no definitive guide stating that labs of certain colors weigh more than others. But their breeding and function enters into whether a lab will weigh more. Black Labradors. Black labs are found in both English and American labs. But an English-bred lab is likely to weigh more than an American lab is. Chocolate Labradors. They are more likely to be from conformation lines than those from working, field lines. So chocolate labs are more likely to be at the higher end of the weight spectrum. Yellow Labradors. They are found in both show and field lines, so there is no likelihood that a yellow lab will weigh more. Other colors. Although not a recognized color, red fox labs are generally American, field-type labs. What Is an Ideal Lab Weight? Muscle weighs more than fat does by volume. Body condition and general health determines what your lab should weigh. Labrador retrievers usually reach their full height between nine and 12 months of age. There are nine different levels that are measured. And you gently palpate the dog to feel how much fat covers those areas. In the first three levels of the chart, a dog is determined to be too thin. Ribs, lumbar vertebrae, and pelvic bones are prominent. And there may even be muscle wasting. There is no to little discernible body fat. And there is an obvious waist and abdominal tuck. In the ideal range, levels four to five, ribs are palpable without excess fat. The waist is easily noted when viewed from above. And there is an evident abdominal tuck when viewed from the side. In the last four levels of body condition, steps six to nine, the dog is too heavy. And the dog has a discernible but not prominent waist when viewed from above and an apparent tummy tuck when viewed from the side. The last three steps range from the ribs barely being palpable to massive fat deposits over the body with no abdominal tuck and even abdominal distension. So you really need to determine where your dog is along this scale. If in doubt, check with your vet to determine whether your lab is an appropriate weight for his age, size, and activity level. So expect them to keep weighing more during that period. Factors regarding how large a lab will get include: Genetics. Generally larger parents and lineage means larger lab puppies. Paw size. Of course, as a lab gets older, he should grow. During the first six months, a lab has rapid rate increases, including growth spurts. On average, a puppy will gain about two or so pounds per week. So a five-week-old puppy will be about 10 pounds and a week-old puppy around 26 pounds. Between 8 weeks and 10 months, your puppy has a ton of growing to do, and they change drastically from month to month. Each stage of growth requires specific attention, exercise, and diet, so there is much to learn and pay attention to these different growth stages. There may be behavioral challenges while your pup adjusts to their new life without their mother and siblings. This period of adjustment can sometimes lead to fearful and timid behavior, and your puppy will need as much attention and affection as possible. They should be eating 3—4 small meals a day at this stage. You can begin basic command, leash, and potty training at this point too. Although the schedule is not complete this is a critical period to begin socialization and making sure they are calm and friendly with other dogs, just make sure they are also vaccinated. We highly recommend making training a part of their daily activities at this age. Biting can be an issue at this stage too, as they will begin teething, and they will start exploring and chewing whatever they can find. Chew toys and consistent command reinforcement are both vital for avoiding this behavior. The good news is that your puppy will grow out of this habit at around 6 months old. Your lab should also be house-trained by this point, but there may still be the occasional accident. Remember to be gentle but firm when this happens, and your pooch will likely move through it swiftly. They will begin losing their baby teeth at this point, and biting and chewing may reach its peak. Firm but gentle commands, chew toys, and loads of patience are essential at this stage. Your puppy will be testing the limits and may start showing dominance, ignoring known commands, and asserting more independence. You can now drop their meals down to two meals per day, but be sure that they are not eating too quickly. Your puppy will start to closely resemble an adult at 6 months, but remember that mentally, they are still puppies and will need loads of direction and training. Females may enter their first heat at 6—7 months, so keep a careful watch for stray males. They will still display puppy tendencies and traits and have a ton of excitable energy, but they should be fairly obedient and well-trained by this stage. Be sure to give your Labrador plenty of exercise at this stage to help keep them from misbehavior. They will have reached their full height by now but may still gain weight and muscle mass in the coming months. Unless you intend on breeding, you should consider neutering and spaying your puppy to avoid wandering and unwanted pregnancies. While some breeders recommend that you wait until a year old, this is a perfectly suitable time to perform the procedure. They may still gain weight and muscle mass but much slower than during the past few months. They will still display puppy characteristics and even test boundaries, but all in all, they should be obedient and well-trained by now. They will have a ton of energy and still enjoy playtimes and loads of exercise. While they are at their full height at this age, some Labs may appear lanky and still have weight to fill out in the coming months. When Do Labradors Stop Growing? All dogs are unique, and the question of when they stop growing is largely dependent on the individual. Anecdotally, your Lab should have reached their full weight by 18 months and full height by 9—12 months. Most breeders agree that your Lab will stop growing at some point during their second year. Even so, any weight gain during their second year will be minimal, and they will have done the majority of their growth by their first birthday. Mentally, they are out of the puppyhood phase of testing boundaries and disobedience by their first year— if correctly trained. If you have been consistent in training thus far, your Lab should be friendly, obedient, and well-behaved from their first birthday and into adulthood. In males, neutering can sometimes result in a calmer, more relaxed dog, and this, in turn, will slow down his need for exercise and may result in weight gain. A study in showed that dogs neutered before 37 weeks may gain more weight, while dogs that had the procedure after 37 weeks had a slower growth trajectory. The difference was minimal, though, and there is no reason to assume that these procedures have much of an effect on growth rates in dogs. Dangers of Growing Too Quickly or Stunted Growth While some puppies may grow quicker or slower than the agreed-upon average, this is usually nothing to be concerned about due to the individual and unique nature of dogs. However, if your pooch is gaining weight rapidly or not gaining enough, there may be deeper issues to look into. If your dog is from working or hunting stock, they may be smaller than average Labs and are usually lighter for work in the field. Size may also be genetic, and if your Lab comes from small parents, they will be smaller than average. The same may be true of heavier-than-average Labs—if their parents are large, they will likely be similar in size. However, larger-than-average weights may also be due to overfeeding or a lack of exercise , or a combination of both, so be sure to keep their exercise and feeding habits consistent. Image Credit: rebeccaashworth, Shutterstock Growth Distinctions of Different Labradors Although they are designated under the same breed, there are two different types of common Labradors: English and American. English Labradors tend to be stockier and more muscular than their American counterparts and have a thick, waterproof coat , while American Labs have a slender build with a slightly finer coat. English Labs are slightly shorter, topping out at around 22 inches, but their stocky and muscular build often makes them heavier than American Labs. In fact, English Labs have been known to weigh up to 20 pounds more than American Labs without being considered overweight. American Labs are known to be slightly more active and energetic than English Labs, while English Labs tend to be less excitable and more laid back. English Labs are by no means lazy, though, and they still have plenty of energy and stamina to go around. Conclusion: Monthly Labrador Growth Pictures Hopefully, this guide has helped you understand the growth rate of your Labrador puppy and given you a better idea of what to expect during the different stages. See also:. Your Labrador Retriever will grow very fast in its first 45 weeks. At 45 weeks, your Labrador Retriever will have reached 95 percent of its adult weight. Then your Labrador Retriever will slowly stop adding more weight. The above discussion is general, and it applies to both male and female Labrador Retrievers. However, male dogs usually grow at a different rate compared to female dogs A male Labrador Retriever will grow very fast in its first 47 weeks. At 47 weeks, a male Labrador Retriever will have reached 95 percent of its adult weight at 47 weeks. A male Labrador Retriever will then slowly stop adding more weight. Similarly, a female Labrador Retriever will grow very fast in its first 44 weeks. At 44 weeks, a female Labrador Retriever will have reached 95 percent of its adult weight at 44 weeks. A female Labrador Retriever will then slowly stop adding more weight. See the growth graph of a Labrador Retriever below. As you can see in the Labrador Retriever growth curve below, the Labrador Retriever grows really fast in its early weeks, and then its growth levels off till it reaches percent of the adult weight. This Labrador Retriever growth calculator is based on the typical weight curve of a Labrador Retriever shown above. The calculator assumes that your Labrador Retriever is growing normally, and not on its way to become overweight or underweight. Weight of the Labrador Retriever. Weight in the dark green region is typical, though weight in the light green region is also possible Adult Labrador Retrievers typically weigh between 55 to 80 pounds. Above is a graph that shows how much a Labrador Retriever should weigh at different ages. Check where the weight of your Labrador Retriever falls in the graph for its age. It is totally fine if the weight of your Labrador Retriever falls in either the dark green or light green region of the graph. However, weight in the dark green region is more typical for Labrador Retrievers. If the weight of your Labrador Retriever falls outside both the dark and light green region for its age, then you should consult a vet. Also, you can use the Labrador Retriever weight calculator below to find the typical weight and the normal weight range of Labrador Retrievers, male or female, of any age between 12 weeks and weeks. The calculator will also tell you if your Labrador Retriever is within the normal weight range for the Labrador Retriever. This Labrador Retriever weight calculator uses information from belpatt. What is the Height of the Labrador Retriever? The adult Labrador Retriever is 21 to 24 inches at the shoulder. This is the average adult height of the Labrador Retriever. This is How to Tell Puppy growth predictors, growth charts, and growth calculators like the ones above are approximate methods for predicting growth in dogs. However, these tools have limited capabilities. Doing this with your Labrador Retriever will give you a clearer picture of how your Labrador Retriever is growing. Our tool will also let you know if your Labrador Retriever is growing normally. You can use this growth trajectory to accurately predict how big your Labrador Retriever will get. The growth trajectory will also let you know very early if your Labrador Retriever will become overweight or underweight. And these days, pets gain weight very easily because their owners spoil them with lots of treats and food. Below is what a normal growth pattern and what abnormal growth patterns look like in Labrador Retrievers. You can compare your Labrador Retriever growth trajectory against these references to see if your Labrador Retriever is growing normally or you can use our automatic tool. The first method, which is the better and more accurate method to weigh your Labrador Retriever, is to use a dog weighing scale. Having a scale for weighing your Labrador Retriever will make it easy for you to weigh your Labrador Retriever regularly without any trouble. The scale that we recommend for weighing the Labrador Retriever is this high durability and affordable W. Click here to check out this scale on Amazon. Then use the same scale to weigh yourself without your Labrador Retriever. Then calculate your weight when holding your dog minus your weight when not holding your Labrador Retriever. This method is illustrated in the picture below. However, note that this method of holding your dog on a scale is not very accurate, and it may be difficult for you to use this method to weigh your Labrador Retriever if your Labrador Retriever is very heavy or if your Labrador Retriever is the type that would not stay still while being held. Starting at 4 months, your Labrador Retriever will gain 1. At 5 months of age, your Labrador Retriever will grow at a rate of 1. Then at 6 months, your Labrador Retriever will gain 1. See the growth rate chart of the Labrador Retriever below Age Months. Labrador puppy weight. It can be hard to know what the right weight is for your specific pup. An American Lab is likely to weigh less than an English Lab in general, but not always! How much do Labs weigh in general? Male Labradors weigh between 60lbs and 80lbs, while females weigh in at between 55lbs and 75lbs. But many healthy Labradors fall outside these averages. As you can see, there is quite a range! Labrador Puppy Weight Lots of our readers want to know how much should my Labrador weigh at this age or that age. Labrador puppies are growing fast, and their weight is constantly changing. We used the data from our forum to create the Lab weight chart below. If you want a rough idea of how much your pup should weigh at different stages of their young life, just compare them to this chart and see how they match up. But remember, average Labrador weight is not totally straight forward… Average Labrador Weight Labradors come in a wide variety of sizes. So average Labrador Retriever weight figures can be misleading. As a very rough guide an adult female Labrador might weigh between 55 and 70lbs. An adult male Lab will weigh 65 — 80lbs. Female Lab weight will on average be lower than male Lab weight, but as you can see there is a considerable cross over. But Labradors also come in a couple of different types, and his type will have an impact upon his ideal Labrador weight. English Labs bred from show lines are likely to be at the upper end of the scale. You can expect English Lab weight to be around 60 — 70 lbs for a female and 70 — 80 lbs for a male. Some of our chunkier, show bred Labs can be a good twenty pounds or more heavier than their field bred cousins, without necessarily being overweight. Whereas the American Lab who is field bred is likely to be at the lower end of average. Volume for volume, muscle weighs more. So it is worth bearing in mind, that a very fit dog will have more muscle and may weigh more than an unfit dog of similar dimensions. Black Lab Weight In theory there should be no difference in weight between Labradors of different colors. Black Labrador weight for an English black Lab will probably be at the higher end of the range, for an American black Lab it will likely be lower. Black Labs are frequently found in both these categories, but some Lab colors differ. For example the chocolates. Chocolate Lab Weight Chocolate Labs are more likely to be show bred than field bred. English Labs weigh more than American Labs in general, and may therefore be at the higher end of average when it comes to weight. This is because yellow Labs are commonly found in both categories. White Labs are more likely to be English Labs, and will therefore probably be at the heavier end of the scale. Fox red Labs are normally American Labs, and will often be thinner in build and therefore lighter in weight. The way to effectively judge whether your Lab is at an ideal weight is not through the scales. It is by feel and appearance. You should not be able to see ribs, but if you press firmly along his sides you should just be able to feel your fingers bumping along them. But in most cases it really is not necessary to weigh your puppy every day, or even every week! Any more than you would weigh your three year old child on a daily or even weekly basis. There are however, some exceptions. Very thin puppies Occasionally we have people post up about puppies that are desperately underweight and clearly failing to thrive. Most of these comments come from people that have purchased puppies that are not ready to leave their mothers, and should not have been sold by the breeder. Some of these puppies are as young as three weeks old. If you have inadvertently been sucked into this horrible trade in underage puppies, do contact a vet for help with feeding your puppy, as a matter of urgency. If you are concerned that your puppy might be seriously underweight, again, your vet is the first port of call. As a very rough guide, many Labrador puppies will weigh around a kilo for every week of their lives. So you would expect a ten week puppy to weigh something in the region of ten kilos or around twenty-two pounds. A twenty percent variation around this would be fairly normal. If your puppy falls outside this variation he may still be perfectly healthy, but if you are inexperienced, a check with the vet is a good way to put your mind at rest. Should I Weigh My Dog? You may need to weigh your dog if he needs medical treatment. Determining the appropriate dose of some drugs requires that we know the exact weight of the patient. But in this case your veterinarian will probably do it for you at their check-ups and assessments. The main reasons to weigh a dog are loss or gain. Trying to put weight on a very thin puppy? You may want to check your progress with regular weigh-ins for a while to make sure they are sufficiently gaining weight. Trying to help your adult Labrador weight decrease? Checking their weight each week will help you to know that you are succeeding, along with visual checks. How to weigh a dog If you need to weigh a puppy, and he is small enough to hold in your arms, you can do this at home. Just weigh yourself on the bathroom scales without him, then weigh yourself again whilst holding the dog, and subtract the first weight from the second. This is accurate enough for most purposes. Larger dogs will need to be weighed on purpose built scales. Most vet surgeries have one in the waiting room, and some pet stores have them too. Really tiny dogs can be weighed accurately on a good sized set of kitchen scales. For once, this is a situation where appearances really do count. Try to get into the habit of looking at your dog objectively and of avoiding comparing with other dogs, many of whom will be overweight. You may find that some other dog owners will tell you your nice slim Labrador is actually too thin. This happens a lot, largely because people are simply getting used to so many dogs being overweight, including some of those receiving the highest accolades in our show rings. Again, if you are worried, check with your vet, but the chances are if someone is telling you this that actually your dog is healthy, and it is really their dog who is overweight. Every dog is different; some dog grow faster or slower than other dogs. You can also set reminders for vet appointments, medication, and grooming. Their first year is crucial for the development of many dogs. Physical Growth Distinctions: Their growth rate varies depending on their gender, genetics, and diet. Your Labrador puppy will grow and gain weight quickly. Your Labrador will continue to grow but at a slower pace. Their limbs will lengthen, and they will gain muscle mass. You may notice their coat changing color and texture. However, they may continue gaining weight and fill out their frame. They may also experience growth spurts during this time. The growth spurts will slow down, and their energy levels may increase. Expose them to different people, places, and animals during their first few months to help them develop their social skills. Teething: Your Labrador will start losing their baby teeth at around four months. Provide them with chew toys and bones to help relieve their discomfort and prevent them from chewing on inappropriate objects. Training: Labradors are highly trainable due to their intelligence and receptive nature. Start training them early , like obedience training , to help them develop good behavior and manners. Energy levels: Labradors are energetic dogs that require plenty of exercise and playtime. However, their energy levels may fluctuate during their first year, so provide them with plenty of rest time. To ascertain the proper quantity and quality of adult dog food for your Labrador, seek advice from your veterinarian. Vaccinations: Ensure your Labrador receives all the necessary vaccinations to protect them from common canine diseases. Joint Health is Crucial: Labradors are prone to joint problems, especially as this large dog ages. Their rapid growth during the first year can strain their joints, leading to hip dysplasia and arthritis. Schedule appointments with your veterinarian to monitor their growth and development. Labrador Retrievers are a popular dog breed known for their loving personality and physical agility. However, when it comes to their size, many pet owners wonder how big their Labrador should be at different ages. Let us discuss the scope of Labrador Retrievers at different stages of their growth, from 8 weeks to 12 months. At 8 weeks old, a Labrador Retriever puppy should weigh between 10 and 18 pounds. At this stage, puppies are still tiny and fragile, so handling them gently is essential. They are also still developing their coordination and learning to walk, run, and play. By 12 weeks old, a Labrador Retriever puppy should weigh between 20 and 40 pounds. At this stage, they are becoming more confident in their movements and may start to explore their environment more. They are becoming more active and energetic and exhibit hunting instincts, such as chasing after balls or other toys. Providing them with plenty of opportunities to exercise and burn off their excess energy is essential. At months old, a Labrador Retriever should weigh between 50 and 65 pounds if male and 40 and females weigh 55 pounds. They enter adolescence and may exhibit unwanted behaviors, such as jumping or chewing. Continuing their training and socialization is essential to help them develop into well-behaved adult dogs. By 9 months old, a Labrador Retriever should weigh between 60 and 75 pounds if male and 45 and 65 pounds if female. They are becoming more mature and may start to exhibit less of their adolescent behaviors. However, you must continue their training and provide plenty of exercises to keep them healthy and happy. At 1 year old, a Labrador Retriever should weigh between 65 and 80 pounds if male and 50 and 70 pounds if female. They are now fully mature and should have reached their adult size. The correct weight for a Labrador depends on various factors such as age, gender, and activity level. Generally, a healthy Labrador should weigh between pounds kg. However, this can vary based on their circumstances. For instance, if your Labrador Retriever is a working dog , it may require more food and exercise, resulting in a higher weight. Maintaining an ideal weight is essential for Labradors as it can significantly impact their health and well-being. Obesity can lead to various health problems, such as joint pain, heart disease, diabetes, and respiratory issues. Labradors tend to overeat and gain weight quickly, making monitoring their weight and maintaining a healthy diet and exercise routine essential. Maintaining a healthy weight can help Labradors live a longer, healthier, and happier life and reduce the risk of health issues. How to Check if Your Labrador is Overweight? You can determine if your Labrador is overweight by: Visual Inspection: Stand above your dog and look down at its body. You should be able to see their waistline behind their ribs. A healthy Labrador should score between .You can ask your veterinarian to perform a BCS on your dog and know how much their muscle weighs. Weighing: Regular weighing of your dog is essential to monitor their weight. Feeding them the right amount of food is essential based on their weight, age, and activity level. Overfeeding can contribute to obesity, leading to health issues. Consult your veterinarian to determine the right amount of food for your dog. Exercise Exercise is another critical aspect of keeping your Labrador at a healthy weight. Regular exercise will help your dog maintain a healthy weight and keep them mentally stimulated, improving their mood. Healthy Treats Labradors love treats, but not all treats are created equal. Choosing healthy treats that are low in calories and provide nutritional benefits is essential. Avoid feeding your dog table scraps or high-calorie treats, as they can quickly add to their daily calorie intake. They can also detect any health issues early and provide the necessary treatment. What is the average weight of a fully-grown Labrador? The average Labrador weight of a fully-grown Labrador is between pounds. At what age is a Lab full-grown? A Labrador is considered full-grown at around months of age. How do I know my Lab is overweight? You can tell if your Labrador Retriever is overweight by feeling its ribs and waist and consulting a veterinarian. What is the ideal weight for a black Lab? The ideal weight for a black Labrador Retriever depends on size and gender but generally falls within the pound range. Can a Lab weigh 50 pounds? Yes, Labradors can weigh 50 pounds, depending on their size and gender. What is the average weight of a female Labrador in KG? The average Lab weight of female dogs in kilograms is between kg. How much should a 1 year old Lab weigh? A 1-year-old Labrador Retriever should weigh around pounds, but it can vary based on gender and size. What is the ideal weight for a 5 month Labrador puppy? The ideal weight for a 5-month-old Labrador puppy is around pounds. How much should a 6 month old male lab weigh? A 6-month-old male Labrador Retriever should weigh around pounds. At what age are lab puppies half their weight? Labrador Retriever puppies are typically almost half their adult weight at around weeks. How often should a 4 month old lab eat? A 4-month-old Lab should eat meals daily, as a veterinarian recommends. A week-old Lab puppy should weigh around pounds, but it can vary based on gender and size. What should my 1 year old Lab weigh? The ideal weight for a 1-year-old Lab depends on size and gender, but it should generally fall within the pound range. How long should I walk my 12 week old lab puppy? A week-old Lab puppy should be walked for short periods, around minutes at a time, several times a day. Why is my 6 month old lab so small? There may be several reasons a 6-month-old Lab is smaller than average, including genetics, dog nutrition, or health issues. How much should a 6 month old lab eat a day? A 6-month-old Lab should eat meals daily, as a veterinarian recommends. What is a good weight for a lab puppy? A good weight for a Lab puppy depends on size and gender, but it should steadily increase over time. Is a 2 year old Lab still a puppy? While Labradors are considered fully grown at months, they can still exhibit puppy-like behavior until around 3 years old. When do chocolate labs stop growing? Chocolate Labradors stop growing between 12 and 18 months old. However, some dogs may continue growing until they are 2. How much do black labs weigh? The average weight of a black Labrador Retriever is between 65 and 80 pounds. However, there is a range of healthy weights for black Labs, and some dogs may weigh as little as 55 pounds or as much as 90 pounds. The weight of a black Lab will also depend on its sex, with males being larger than females. A 3-year-old Labrador Retriever should weigh between 65 and 80 pounds for a male and 55 and 70 pounds for a female. A 2-year-old Labrador Retriever should weigh about the same as a 3-year-old Labrador Retriever. The average weight for a male is pounds and for a female is pounds. A 7-month-old Labrador Retriever should weigh about half of its adult weight. The average weight for a female chocolate Labrador Retriever is pounds. A 9-week-old Labrador Retriever should weigh about pounds. The average weight for a male is 17 pounds and for a female is 16 pounds. A week-old Labrador Retriever should weigh about pounds. The average weight for a male is 22 pounds and for a female is 21 pounds. A 5-year-old Labrador Retriever should weigh about the same as a 3-year-old Labrador Retriever. There are a few reasons why your Labrador Retriever might be small. One possibility is that it is a small breed of Labrador Retriever. Another possibility is that it needs to get more exercise. Finally, your Labrador Retriever is simply a late bloomer and will still grow some more. A 4-year-old Labrador Retriever should weigh about the same as a 3-year-old Labrador Retriever. The average weight for a male is 27 pounds and for a female is 26 pounds. A 7-month-old Labrador Retriever should weigh about pounds. The average weight for a male is 40 pounds and for a female is 37 pounds. A 3-month-old Labrador Retriever should weigh about pounds. The average weight for a male is 13 pounds and for a female is 12 pounds. Labrador Retrievers typically stop growing between 12 and 18 months old. However, some dogs may continue to grow for up to 2 years old. With extensive research and personal experiences, Aritra has become a Labrador expert, offering a rich resource on the breed. The site serves as a comprehensive resource, offering a wealth of up-to-date information for Labrador owners and enthusiasts alike.

If you click and purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Our list of the highest rated Labradoodle Breeders in New York features ethical facilities whose main focus is producing healthy Labradoodle pups. More breeders are taking on the huge responsibility of breeding Labradoodle puppies in New York, which is naturally a great thing. However, the high demand has also attracted Doodle scammers and puppy mills. See Also: Click the image Although Doodle scammers will leave you empty-handed with no money or puppy, puppy mills are a different story. Namely, their lower prices are used to attract unknowing buyers while selling them unhealthy puppies from overbred parents. Oftentimes, the kennels are in horrible conditions, the dogs are malnourished, and come with a wide set of health problems. You can always ask the breeder for proof of health testing, as reputable breeders have no problems providing you with the documentation. For more on issues that can plague Labradoodles take a look at our article Doodle Health Issues and Diseases. Another great indicator is that a breeder is recommended by Gooddog. All of these organizations require their certified breeders to follow high standards of health and genetic testing. In addition to that, the breeders have to follow ethical breeding practices and provide a safe, clean, and nurturing environment for the breeding dogs and puppies. See Also:. As a quality breeder, the dogs live in our home or with a guardian and are part of our family. Australian Labradoodles are funny, intelligent, loving, sociable, eager to please and oh so much fun. They are wonderful with children of all ages. They love people and are happiest cuddled up with a beloved family member. Our labrodoodle adoptions are available to dog owners across Manhattan and Long Island. Contact us today to learn more about these wonderful little puppies. The number to dial is: .Future dog owner families are invited to visit with both the mommy and her puppies. At 6 weeks of age, we want you to have the opportunity to experience firsthand how very special the Australian Labradoodle breed truly is. Admittedly, we are prejudiced, but personally we think you'll never find a more wonderful and loving family companion! Each puppy comes with their lineage that goes back to Australia. Our multi-generational dogs all maintain the integrity of the breed. All of our breeding dogs are tested by a Veterinarian and are hip, elbow, heart and eye certified by OFA. At 8 weeks old, the puppies have been weaned and are ready to join their new family. They leave Labradoodles of Long Island with 1st vaccination, Dewormed, Micro chipped as well as a blanket with the familiar scent of their litter, toys, bowls, leash, collar, food, information on their milestones and a plethora of other tips. Our puppies were featured on Animal Planet's "Too Cute. We aim for a personal touch in our relationship with our puppy families and are happy to answer any questions you might have about the breed, about our dogs and about what you might expect from an Australian Labradoodle puppy. Please do not hesitate to ask us anything! It is just an hour east of New York City. All Labradoodles of Long Island families are encouraged to join our Facebook group to share pictures and stories of their pups. It is heartwarming to follow each puppy's growth and progress. Questions about puppies for sale in Suffolk County? We have answers. What makes Uptown Puppies different from any other Suffolk County puppy finder? Uptown Puppies is the best place to find puppies for sale in Suffolk County. Uptown is the best site to find healthy, happy puppies from ethical breeders. We have a strict vetting process that allows only the most humane and responsible breeders to list their puppies with us. With the help of our partners and families like yours, we hope to put an end to puppy mills and other unethical breeding practices. Can I only pick local puppies for sale near Suffolk County? Looking for puppies for sale in Brookhaven, NY? Looking for your perfect pup? Look no further! Our nationwide network of experienced breeders can help you find your ideal dog, no matter where you live. Whether you're looking for a local breeder or one across the country, our partners are experts at making travel arrangements. So finding your dream dog is easy - just let us know what you're looking for and we'll take care of the rest! How do you screen breeders near Suffolk County? Curious about puppies for sale in Islip, or maybe puppies for sale in Babylon, NY? At Uptown, we take great pride in our rigorous and selective breeding and partnering process. In order to ensure that only the happiest and healthiest puppies are born and brought into our network, we maintain a very high standard for all potential breeders. What is a puppy mill like? Why should I avoid mills when looking for puppies in Suffolk County? Looking for healthy puppies for sale in Huntington? Puppy mills are terrible places for new puppies. The dogs there are bred with no regard for their health or safety, and the resulting puppies are often sickly and prone to expensive and even life-threatening health problems. Here at [name of store], we avoid puppy mills at all costs to ensure that our puppies are healthy and happy. What kind of puppies for sale in Smithtown can I find here? We have all kinds of puppies for sale in Southampton, NY! Looking for a new best friend? Uptown Puppies has dozens of popular breeds available, so you're sure to find the perfect pup for you. From Golden Retrievers and Poodles to Cockapoos and Yorkiepoos, we have a wide variety of dogs to choose from. Come visit us today and find your dream dog! How do I get my puppy? What are the easiest ways to bring home puppies for sale in Riverhead? Uptown Puppies can help! We work with breeders and partners across the country to help get puppies to their forever homes. Most of our families have their pups flown to the nearest airport. We make the travel arrangements easy so you can focus on bonding with your new furry friend! What are the most popular breeds puppies for sale in Brentwood? There are loads of puppies for sale in Coram. Looking for a furry friend? You've come to the right place! We have all sorts of dogs, from purebreds to Doodles, that are just waiting to be adopted. So no matter what kind of dog you're looking for, we can help you find the perfect one. What are Doodles? Do you have any Doodle puppies for sale in Commack? You bet we have Doodle puppies for sale in Huntington Station! Dogs have been bred for thousands of years to create specific traits and characteristics. In recent years, a new type of dog has become popular: the Doodle. Doodles are hybrid dogs that are created by breeding Poodles with other breeds. Do you have purebred puppies for sale in Centereach? There are all kinds of purebred puppies for sale in Bay Shore. Looking for a purebred pup? Uptown Puppies has got you covered, with dozens of popular breeds to choose from. Poodles, German Shepherds, Golden Retrievers - we've got them all! So whatever type of dog you're looking for, odds are good that you'll find them here at Uptown Puppies. Do breeders in your network offer a health guarantee for their puppies for sale in Dix Hills? Want the best puppies for sale in Lindenhurst? Introducing our industry-leading 10 year health guarantee! At our network of breeders, all puppies are required to undergo a nose-to-tail health screening before they can be adopted. These health reports are certified by a third-party vet, and we always encourage new owners to verify their pup's health with their own vet after they bring them home. With this guarantee, you can rest assured that your new furry friend will be healthy and happy for years to come! Is this legitimate? We've helped place tens of thousands of puppies with families across the country over the past few years. We're constantly getting feedback from families about how much of a difference our system is making. We vet breeders and put puppies first, and it's clear that it's having a positive impact! My family is looking for puppies for sale in Holbrook. Is it easy to find a dog here? If you're looking for a new furry friend, you've come to the right place! Uptown Puppies has a wide selection of puppies from different breeds, and there's always new litters coming in. But act fast — these puppies get adopted quickly! If you see your dream pup, reserve them before someone else does. Uptown Puppies Puppy Finder.

Breeds The link has been copied! Are you looking for a new four-legged addition to your family? The blue English Bulldog is an adorable and unique breed of canine companion that will appeal to pet lovers everywhere. The blue English Bulldog stands out from many other breeds. They have distinct traits that make them unique and endearing to so many. In this blog post, we'll explore why owning a blue English Bulldog breed can be such an incredible experience, from their chill personality and cheerful disposition to their loving nature and ability to stick by your side through thick or thin. Read on if you're interested in discovering more about this eye-catching pup. A blue English Bulldog is one of the unique and striking hues among the breed. They have a shimmery, silvery-gray coat that stands out from other colors in the Bulldog family. It can appear almost black at first glance but has a subtle icy sheen that's unmistakable. Blue English Bulldogs tend to have light eyes and blue noses, adding to their eye-catching appearance. Though the coat color is rare, this makes the blue English Bulldog even more desirable to pet owners. They are often referred to as "blue fawns" due to their distinct coloring. English Bulldogs are known for their unique coat colors, especially when it comes to the 'blue' variety. This results in a lightening of the coat, which in turn gives it a distinct bluish-gray tint. The coloring is also not just limited to blue, as it can range from a pale steel gray right through to a deeper grayish-black color depending on the intensity of the mutation. They typically have short, smooth coats with a white or fawn undercoat. Their faces are round and flat, with long wrinkles on the forehead, and a short, wide muzzle. The ears are small and folded over their heads. Bulldogs' tails are also short and thickly coated. They have strong legs that end in feet that are slightly turned outwards, giving them a distinctive look. When walking or running, their strong bodies move in a smooth, rolling way that is unmistakably "Bulldog" in nature. These Bulldogs typically stand 12 to 16 inches tall. An athletic build, a broad chest, and short legs give them a solid appearance. While compact, blue English Bulldogs are surprisingly strong and powerful in terms of strength and agility. They also have very determined personalities, which can sometimes come off as stubbornness if not properly trained or given enough attention. This blood sport involved tying a bull to a stake, while several Bulldogs would fight against it in an attempt to subdue it, all while spectators bet on who would win. After the blood sport was outlawed in , these Bulldogs were bred primarily as companion animals and show dogs. Some historians believe that bulldogs were also used to hunt boar and guard livestock at one point. A fascinating feature about blue English Bulldogs is that they are actually black dogs whose coat color has been diluted through generations of breeding. A blue English Bulldog is a medium-sized breed of dog. They have a solid, weighty build. Their broad chest, muscular body and short legs give them a powerful, stocky appearance. Although they are not fluffy fur dogs, their short coats often appear thick and heavy due to their dense muscle mass. While they may not be the biggest breed of dog out there, they are certainly larger than toy breeds and possess impressive strength for their size. When fully grown, they can reach heights of up to 16 inches at the shoulder. Their weight depends on their size, but on average a male blue English Bulldog will weigh around pounds while females will weigh slightly less at pounds. They are eager to please their owners and families, and tend to form strong bonds with them quickly. Their sweet, docile nature makes them great companions for those who want a laid-back pet that is content to snuggle up on the couch. Despite their appearance of having low energy levels, they enjoy being active and will love going out for regular walks and playing in the yard with their family members. This breed is intelligent and alert, making them an excellent watchdog too. They can be stubborn at times but respond readily when given consistent training. As with all breeds, socialization from a young age is key to ensuring the blue English Bulldog grows up to be a well-rounded adult dog. Yes, the blue English Bulldog is a great family dog. They are loyal, friendly, and affectionate companions that make excellent playmates for children and other pets. Because of their mellow nature, they don't require as much exercise as other dog breeds , making them an ideal pet for busy families or those living in urban areas. The blue English Bulldog's intelligence and gentle nature make them easy to train and can even be taught simple tricks. Their loving personality makes them great guardians as well. All in all, the blue English Bulldog is an ideal pet for families looking for a faithful companion who will give plenty of love and devotion in return. Blue English Bulldog Health Risks With any breed of dog, there are certain health risks that owners should be aware of before bringing one into their home. Here we will discuss the various blue English Bulldog health issues associated with these Bulldogs specifically. Brachycephalic airway syndrome is one of the most common blue English bulldog health risks. This is a condition caused by the shortened skull typically found in brachycephalic breeds, like the Bulldog and Pug. Dogs can experience difficulty breathing due to an obstruction in their nasal passages or throat, and this can lead to major respiratory problems such as snoring, gagging, coughing, and even difficulty eating or drinking water. Another big risk for blue English Bulldogs is overheating. This breed has a thick coat that can make it difficult for them to cool down during hot summer months, leading to heat exhaustion or even heat stroke if left outside for too long without access to shade or water. It's important to keep your dog indoors during extremely hot days and provide them with plenty of water at all times in order to prevent overheating. Blue English bulldogs also have a predisposition towards skin problems such as allergies , hot spots, eczema, dry skin, etc. Additionally, this breed is prone to Degenerative myelopathy DM , commonly described as degenerative spine disease, which can cause pain and immobility over time if not addressed properly through diet and exercise modification from a young age. Other potential health risks include eye problems cherry eye, dry eye , hip dysplasia, head shakes, thyroid and heart disease which can both be screened for prior to adoption , cancer, and joint and ligament injuries. While some of these conditions may sound scary at first glance, many of them are preventable or manageable when caught early on with proper care and monitoring from an experienced veterinarian. Being aware of the various health risks associated with blue English Bulldogs is essential in order for owners to provide their pets with the best possible blue English Bulldog care throughout their lifetime. Blue English Bulldog Exercise Requirements Blue English Bulldogs need regular exercise to stay healthy and happy, but they should avoid strenuous exercises. Brisk walking, light jogging, and playing fetch are great ways to give them the exercise they need while keeping them calm. Bulldog owners must also be aware of the breed's limited endurance; Bulldogs become quickly agitated and can overheat easily. For this reason, it is important to keep their exercise sessions short and controlled. Feeding your Bulldog quality food in small amounts throughout the day will help keep energy levels regulated for a more enjoyable exercise routine. A slicker brush and comb should be used to brush the coat at least once or twice a week, with added brushing during seasonal shedding periods. Bathing Once a month to every six to eight weeks is sufficient for bathing a blue English Bulldog. This should include washing the skin folds on its body and face to keep them clean and dry, as food, dirt, or moisture can get trapped in these areas and lead to irritation or infection. Regular checks of these areas are essential. It's also important not to over-bathe your Bulldog, as this may result in skin irritation or damage the coat and increase the chance of skin allergies appearing. When choosing a shampoo for your dog, look for one that is specifically designed for sensitive dog skin. If you prefer, you can take your Bulldog to the groomer for a haircut, nail clipping, or ear cleaning, three to four times a year every three months. Ear Care To ensure a blue English Bulldog's ears remain clean and healthy, they should be cleaned weekly with a cotton ball soaked in a cleansing agent designed specifically for dog ears. It is important to only use a cleanser that has been recommended by a veterinarian, as some products may irritate the skin or cause further infection. When cleaning, it is important to be gentle; it is best to never insert anything deeper than the first knuckle on your finger into the ear canal. If any of these symptoms are present, it is important to seek medical advice right away. Oral Hygiene To maintain oral hygiene, brushing your dog's teeth at least three to four times a week is a must. Using an enzymatic toothpaste specifically formulated for dogs, as well as a soft-bristled toothbrush and finger brush, will help reduce plaque and tartar buildup on the surface of the teeth. Also, adding dental treats such as chew bones can help massage the gums and remove plaque from hard-to-reach areas in between teeth. It is clear that not all kennel clubs recognize the blue English Bulldog. This means that if an individual wishes to register their blue English Bulldog with a kennel club, they must find one that will acknowledge it as a legitimate breed. There is a possibility that they can be registered with the American Kennel Club and other kennel clubs as a Bulldog. But, unfortunately, this lack of recognition from some of the world's most prominent kennel clubs means that blue English Bulldogs cannot compete in major dog shows or other competitions. Are Blue English Bulldogs Rare? Yes, blue English Bulldogs are indeed very rare. Although there are other rare Bulldog colors in the breed, such as black, chocolate, and lilac, blue is considered to be the most unique and sought-after color of Bulldog. This rarity makes blue English Bulldog puppies more expensive than their counterparts with more common coat colors. In fact, they are so rare that some breeders may not even have access to this type of bulldog at all. Despite this, it does not stop many people from trying to get their hands on a blue English Bulldog pup. The rarest English Bulldog color is known as the merle coat. This unique and distinctive coat color features a pattern of dark brown or black mottled markings on the fur. The merle gene is recessive, meaning that both parents need to possess the gene for puppies to be born with this coloration. As such, breeding for a merle-colored bulldog can be quite difficult and takes time, which explains why it is so rare. Merles are also more prone to health issues because of the associated recessive genetic traits, making them even more scarce in the bulldog world. However, those who do own a merle-colored English Bulldog often consider them highly prized possessions due to their uniqueness. Final Thoughts The blue English bulldog is an amazing pet for families, singles and seniors alike. Their blue English Bulldog characteristics, combined with their adorable looks, make them one of the cutest and most popular companion pets out there. With a decent exercise regime, good nutrition and regular vet visits, these dogs can easily become lifelong members of any family. Get more expert advice on pet-parenting by visiting the Off Leash blog at TryFi. TryFi's The Fi Dog Collar is a must-have for any pet parent, it's a GPS tracking collar that helps you keep tabs on your dog's location, activity, and sleep patterns, and alerts you if they escape your backyard. Try the Fi Dog Collar today! The link has been copied! You might also like. Notes and advice Blue Bulldog The Smallest Dog Breeds the blue bulldog or the french blue bulldog is a small breed of dogs, soft and very friendly, of small size, perfect for those who like this type of dog without being able to own a larger one. Despite its small size, the French Bulldog or French Bulldog has a powerful, muscular, compact body with a large bony structure and one of the Strangest Dog Breeds. Blue Bulldog breed Surely you have seen French bulldog with many colors and do not know what it is. The blue bulldog breed is very striking and spectacular. There are really beautiful specimens but there are many people who are against this color. Blue Bulldog Physical features His head: broad, square, and very strong, with folds and wrinkles. His ears: set high, carried straight. His eyes: large, round, and dark. Gentle and playful, he is considered an ideal playmate for children. He is a nice ally for the elderly. As he aged, he may as well be the public entertainer or remain relatively peaceful. He always remains dependent on his master with whom he needs to stay. He is an excellent companion dog for young and old alike. Thus, its weight must stagnate between 8 and 14 kg in adulthood. Its diet consists mainly of premium croquettes that can be found in specialized stores. Lamb croquettes, meat popular with French Bulldogs, are recommended. He should have a maximum of two daily rations. This blue coat is the result of a dilution of the black pigment and it indicates a genetic problem. The D locus would play a major role by being at the origin of an accumulation of pigment granules, which would induce a reduction in the absorption of light and would fade the colors: black would become blue. There is a strong relationship between French Bulldogs born with a blue coat and alopecia. Even if this relationship is not systematic, serious breeders do not offer future owners, in any case, not a priori, blue-colored bulldogs. Blue French Bulldog price The price of a French blue Bulldog varies depending on its origins, age, and gender. The Blue Bulldog is one of the rarest colors. For that reason, alone people pay very high prices for them. You can expect to pay twice or triple as much for a blue French Bulldog than the average price for a standard French Bulldog. Why the French blue Bulldogs so expensive? Why are they so much more expensive than other popular breeds? French blue Bulldog puppies The high price tag reflects the expense of artificial insemination and c-sections to deliver the puppies. They also require constant attention and care when they are born. They require many health and genetic exams. Reports have it one of the wealthy individuals named Robert Williams Daniel who survived the Titanic had his Frenchie along with him. While Robert survived when the ship sank on April 15th, sadly his French Bulldog did not make it. Living conditions of the French blue Bulldog blue Bulldogs have the same conditions of the other breeds French Bulldogs and this some living conditions for this breed: 1-Always and only in a house. The French Bulldog is an ideal apartment dog because it has short hair, very little drool, is not a too barking dog , and knows how to adapt to circumstances frantic play or absolute tranquility with great intelligence and intuition. He is very sensitive to the moods of his master. Rather calm by nature, especially in adulthood, he does not need to exercise intensely and will be satisfied with a small interior space. A house with a garden will also suit him, but be careful not to leave it outside during hot weather or even in the middle of winter. Its flattened muzzle and lack of undercoat do not give it good resistance. Moreover, being a very poor swimmer and having a tendency to sink, the presence of a water point in his environment could represent a danger. Its musculature and strong bones must be maintained and physical expenditure, even moderate, is necessary for this small dog who can quickly exceed its healthy weight if it is not sufficiently stimulated. On the other hand, its flattened muzzle causes heavy breathing problems in this brachycephalic dog, so it will not be comfortable in confined and poorly ventilated places, as is often the case with conventional modes of transport car, train, plane. Blue French Bulldog is quite striking however can be prone to Color Dilution Alopecia or CDA; a recessively inherited condition that causes patches of hair thinning or loss. This is most commonly seen in dogs with blue or fawn coats like the Shar-Pei dog. The Blue Bulldog puppies are born normal looking, but the hair thinning and loss symptoms can start at 6 months up to several years later. It is most often associated with Blue Dobermans. It is important to mention that our blue Frenchie never suffered from any symptoms to his coat. Not all blue Frenchies will be prone to the coat problems however, your vet can help you keep your blue French Bulldog healthy and happy if any issue arises. Blue Bulldog Mixed Blue Bulldog get cold easily Some owners have stated the Blue Bulldog gets cold easily, we are unsure if this is just a myth or based on actual research. Having any Frenchie in a cold climate is not ideal due to their short coat. If you live in a cold climate there are ways you can keep your Frenchie warm. Always dress your blue French Bulldog with specially tailored for Frenchies hoodies, Blue Bulldog hair, etc. The blue Frenchie skin condition can also impact your grooming regime. We have not experienced any of the above with our blue Frenchie. We also know plenty of the standard colour Frenchies who suffer from skin conditions and allergies. We love all our French Bulldogs friends that come in all colours of the rainbow. Top Ten Dangerous Dogs Top Ten Dangerous Dogs different coat colors of a Blue Bulldog puppy Blue Frenchie — that is when the french bulldog has only the blue color that covers all his body without any other colors to the coat. Blue Frenchie Blue pied french bulldog Blue Pied Frenchie — Blue Pied Bulldog this color has the blue coats and patches of white or cream on their bellies, chest, legs, etc. Blue pied french bulldog Blue fawn frenchie blue fawn french bulldog — The blue fawn french bulldog is when the coating mix of blue and fawn. Blue fawn frenchie Blue brindle french bulldog Blue brindle Frenchie -Blue coated French Bulldog puppy with brindle streaks. Blue merle french bulldog Blue and tan french bulldog Blue and Tan Frenchie — Blue coated French Bulldog puppy with tan points usually around paws and face. Me What is a Blue French Bulldog? A blue French bulldog is a variation of the French bulldog breed, known for its distinctive blue-gray coat color. French bulldogs are a popular breed of domestic dogs, known for their small size, muscular build, and wrinkled faces. The blue coat color is a result of a genetic mutation that results in a dilution of the black pigment in their fur, giving it a blue-gray appearance. What makes them blue? The blue coat color in blue French bulldogs is the result of a genetic mutation that dilutes the black pigment in their fur. This mutation affects the melanin pigment in the hair follicles, resulting in a blue-gray appearance. The mutation is caused by a recessive gene, which means that a blue French bulldog must inherit two copies of the gene one from each parent in order to express the blue coat color. Are Blue Frenchies really blue? Blue French bulldogs are not actually blue in color. The blue coat color is a misnomer, and these dogs are actually gray-blue or silver in appearance. The blue color is the result of a dilution of the black pigment in their fur, which gives it a bluish hue. Silver Blue: This is a lighter shade of blue that is similar to silver color. Dark Blue: This is a deeper, almost black, shade of blue. Blue Brindle: This is a blue coat with a brindle pattern, which is characterized by streaks of dark fur interspersed with lighter fur. Blue Fawn: This is a blue coat with a fawn-colored undercoat, giving the dog a blue-gray appearance with a lighter underbelly. French bulldogs are known for being friendly, affectionate, and playful. They are typically good with children and other pets and make great companions for families and individuals alike. They are also relatively low-maintenance in terms of exercise needs, making them a good choice for apartment living or for people with limited time for dog walking. Grooming Grooming your blue French bulldog is important for maintaining its health and appearance. Brush your dog regularly to remove loose hair and reduce shedding. Use a slicker brush or a rubber brush to remove tangles and mats. Bathe your blue Frenchie as needed, using a dog-specific shampoo. Be careful to avoid getting soap in their eyes or ears, and rinse thoroughly to remove all soap residue. Use a cotton ball or soft cloth to gently clean the inside of their ears. Brush his teeth regularly to maintain their oral health and prevent tooth decay and gum disease. Blue Frenchies get on well with children Blue French bulldogs generally get along well with children. French bulldogs are known for being friendly, affectionate, and playful, and they tend to be good with children. They have a gentle and patient temperament, making them a great choice for families with kids. Size Blue French bulldogs are a small breed of dog and typically weigh between 16 and 28 pounds, with males being larger than females. They stand 11 to 13 inches tall at the shoulder. However, French bulldogs are generally a compact and muscular breed with a short, stocky build, and are well-proportioned for their size Lifespan The lifespan of a blue French bulldog is typically 10 to 12 years. Like all dogs, the lifespan of a blue French bulldog can be influenced by several factors, including genetics, diet, and overall health. A French bulldog can appear blue due to a genetic dilution of the black pigment in their coat, causing a blue-grey hue to appear. Are Blue Frenchies rare? Yes, Blue Frenchies are considered a rare coat color and therefore may be more expensive and difficult to find. What is the temperament of a blue French Bulldog? The temperament of a blue French Bulldog can vary, but generally, they are friendly, playful, and affectionate dogs. They are known to be loyal companions and are good with children. Why should I choose Tomkings Kennel? We at TomKings Kennel are committed to the health, well-being, and responsible breeding of French Bulldogs. We put the needs of our animals first, and strive to produce healthy and well-adjusted pets that are well-suited to their new homes. We test our breeding dogs for genetic health issues and work to prevent the spread of inherited diseases. We also provide proper veterinary care for our dogs, including regular check-ups and vaccinations. We carefully plan our breeding programs to produce healthy, well-adjusted offspring. We also limit the number of litters our females produce to ensure that each animal receives the proper care and attention. We provide our dogs with clean, safe, and comfortable living conditions. We also provide our pups with regular exercise and socialization opportunities. We are transparent and open in our communication with potential Frenchie owners. We are happy to answer all your questions and provide information about our breeding practices and the care we provide to our puppies. We have a deep love and commitment to the French Bulldog breed and we work to promote and protect the health and well-being of the breed as a whole. Otto Bulldog Description The Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog is a well-developed, exaggerated bulldog with a broad head and natural drop ears. The prominent muzzle is covered by loose upper lips. The prominent eyes are set well apart. The Alapaha's coat is relatively short and fairly stiff. Preferred colors are blue merle, brown merle, or red merle all trimmed in white or chocolate and white. Also preferred are the glass eyes blue or marble eyes brown and blue mixed in a single eye. The ears and tail are never trimmed or docked. The body is sturdy and very muscular. The well-muscled hips are narrower than the chest. The straight back is as long as the dog is high at the shoulders. The dewclaws are never removed and the feet are cat-like. This breed is named as such for its streak of "royalty. They will fight to the death to defend their owners and make excellent companion dogs. Excellent with and protective of children. These are active, athletic and mindful dogs with a lot of heart. The objective in training this dog is to achieve a pack leader status. It is a natural instinct for a dog to have an order in their pack. When we humans live with dogs, we become their pack. The entire pack cooperates under a single leader; lines are clearly defined. You and all other humans MUST be higher up in the order than the dog. That is the only way your relationship can be a complete success. Height, Weight Height: 24 inches 61 cm Weight: Males up to pounds 47 kg Females about 78 pounds 34 kg There is a considerable difference between the males and females. Males can be almost twice as heavy as the smallest females. Health Problems With such a small genetic pool, health problems such as inversion of the eyelids entropion can develop. Living Conditions Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldogs will do okay in an apartment if they are sufficiently exercised. They are very inactive indoors and will do best with at least an average-sized yard. Exercise These athletic, active dogs have an average demand for exercise. They need long daily walks and will enjoy a romp in a safe enclosed area. Life Expectancy. I am familiar with common and uncommon health problems they may face so when my boyfriend and I decided we were ready to adopt our own english puppy finding a reputable breeder that prioritizes health was most important to us. Erica and Mitch of Bruiser Bulldogs are just that. They are experienced, ethical and quality breeders. I was referred to them by my friend that I trust after I saw their gorgeous healthy puppy. Our Puppy Primrose is the light of our lives! Bruisers was there to assist us every step of the way. We would highly recommend Bruisers Bulldogs to anyone looking for their own happy, healthy pup! Leah H. We were lucky to have come across Bruiser Bulldogs and even more so the fact that they were near our family and hometown made it even better. We have had Clementine Callie for four months now, and she is a wonderful dog. Her personality is amazing, and I think part of it is breeding and the other part is Erika and her family lovingly raising the puppies in their home with plenty of attention and snuggles. I also was impressed that, rather than send the puppies out right at 8 weeks, Erika kept ours for a few extra weeks because she was tiny and not read to leave her mom yet. It's that care that differentiates Bruisers from other breeders. Emily R. Erica was easy to work with thru the entire process from application to adopting and now beyond as we host our new family member, Chief. Her on-call support and willingness to provide open, honest advice to all of our questions and concerns continues to be appreciated. We would highly recommend Bruiser Bulldogs to anyone looking for an English Bulldog to join their family. Elizabeth W. Lady L. They are experienced, responsive and knowledgeable about all things bulldog related. They went above and beyond for us and are truly dedicated to all of their pups! We love our little girl so much and would recommend Bruiser to anyone looking for a healthy beautiful bully. Jonathan E. Erica and Mitch are trustworthy, excellent communicators, fair, passionate, and produce the best bulldogs. We were at the top of the waiting list for months and Erica reached out every litter to see if we were finally ready for a bulldog. When we were, she was very easy to work with. Her knowledge on bulldogs is outstanding. We had many questions on the process and she always knew what was best for the puppy. We've had Penny formerly Blair for two months and she is very healthy, energetic, playful, and sweet. She is great with other people and dogs. We are so happy with our pup. When we are ready for bulldog 2, we will only consider Bruiser Bulldogs. Mitch C. Bowser was born April and is an integral part of our family. When we were first exploring English Bulldog breeders our biggest concern was the overall health of the dogs. We decided to work with Erica at Bruiser Bulldogs because we liked their focus on improving the breeds breathing abilities and the fact that the puppies are raised within her family environment before coming home with their new owners. Bowser also breaths clearly and our vet was impressed with his overall health from the moment we brought him home. All that said we know English Bulldogs have a predisposition to many health issues and that his current health can not predict the future. With that In mind its important to start with a breeder that open to answer any of your questions as Erica has ours, and that strongly believes in improving the breeds overall health profile. Adam B. My sister ended up finding Bruiser Bulldogs and we knew right away that they were the breeder for us. In September we ended up driving 9 hours to pick up two Bruiser bulldog puppies- one for my husband and I and one for my mom. Jackson and Penelope have been nothing but a joy. They are both very athletic and healthy. They are also HUGE snugglers and always want to be with you. It is an absolute pleasure having these two bullies in our lives! Erica is very knowledgeable about the breed. She is very hands on throughout the process and is just overall a kind and honest person to work with. With all that being said I cannot recommend Bruiser Bulldogs enough! Collyn C. One of the reasons we chose Bruiser Bulldogs was due to the claims about breeding for health. During our first visit at our vet's office, he told us that our pup was one of the healthiest English bulldogs he had ever seen. He is healthy, happy and social. Would recommend to anyone. Christina S. We seen our dog on their website and sent them an Email. Mitch called us and personally walked us through the process and made sure we had the right dog for our family. We couldn't be happier when we picked up our dog Ramsey, Erica made sure we had everything we needed and then some. They are truly amazing people who breed truly amazing dogs! Jim T. Free Bulldog Puppy Starter Kit!

Do Father dogs know their puppies? By two weeks of age, they should be alert and trying to stand. By three weeks, they should be trying to climb out of their nest or whelping box. By four weeks, all the puppies should be able to walk, run, and play. How long do puppies stay in whelping box? During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. How do you transition a puppy from a whelping box? By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. Can I move the whelping box? We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. Is whelping box necessary? As the last week of pregnancy approaches, your female dog will often begin looking for a secure and comfortable place to have her litter of puppies. Before this time comes, it is essential to create a whelping box so she becomes comfortable with it and knows this is the preferred place to have her puppies. Do 4 week old puppies need a heat lamp? Young puppies cannot maintain their own body temperature for a week or two after birth. Heating the area over the whelping box with the aid of a heat lamp is usually all that is necessary. When should I remove the whelping box? I usually take them out at about 3 — 4weeks. This is what I have in My box they just stay there all the time. When can puppies go all night without nursing? A six or seven week old puppy can go through the night without needing to feed as long as they have had enough food during the day. Should newborn puppies sleep with Mom? A newborn puppy is completely helpless and dependent upon her mother. Puppies should remain with the mother and littermates until about age eight to 12 weeks. How do you keep a puppy whelping box clean? Clean the bottom with a chemical-free disinfectant cleanser. Spray a bit of chemical-free disinfectant cleanser on the bottom and sides of your whelping box, and use a paper towel to wipe this up. When can I leave my dog alone with her puppies? Can you leave newborn puppies alone with their mom overnight? Should I leave my dog alone while she is in labor? Should I be present during the whelping? Some dogs like the owner to be with them the whole time they are in labor. Others prefer to have their puppies in seclusion. If your pet chooses to be left alone, try to avoid intruding any more than necessary. What is the best bedding for a whelping box? Many breeders use shredded newspaper to line whelping boxes, but others prefer towels and blankets, wood shavings, or even sand. Should I keep my dog in the whelping box? A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Whelping means the process where a female dog gives birth to puppies. And a whelping box is a container or box designed to keep the puppies safe and warm. Having a whelping box makes it convenient for the mother to give birth comfortably. Female dogs are very protective of their puppies. Hence the nesting box offers a sense of security. Female dogs need assistance and a safe place to give birth. Hence, a whelping pen would be of great help. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to get a box or make it yourself. For a small dog like Pomeranian, you can convert a large card box into a whelping pen. You can put your creativity into the process and make a nesting box for your dog. If your dog is big, she might probably give birth to a large number of puppies. Hence, the size of the box should be large enough to fit the puppies and the mother. Furthermore, you can get the box from a pet store if creativity and DIY are not your forte. Here are some of the factors that you need to consider: The sides of the pen should be high enough that can keep the puppies safe for three weeks. Also, make sure that the mother can move to and fro freely. The size of the pen should be spacious enough for your dog and puppies. It should have enough space where the mother can feed her pups comfortably. In addition, it should allow them to move freely. It will help to keep the pups warm when the mom is not around. These are the factors that you need to consider while getting a nesting box. It helps the mother and the pups in the long run. You would notice the growth within the first few weeks. They can move and stand up over the sides of the whelping pen. By three weeks, they become mobile and able to move towards the edge of the nesting box. However, before it reaches that stage, you should take care of it diligently. Some pups would go astray and get lost. Hence, getting a box with proper height is essential. Sometimes the mother has to go out of the box for a nature call or food. The box offers a sense of security both to the dog owner and the mother. When the puppies are born, they have no control over their body temperature. So, while the mom is out, the box will keep them warm. However, you have to make sure that the bottom of the box is covered with a soft blanket. By three weeks, they will start moving, and some puppies might even get out of the box. So, the real chaos begins when they reach three weeks. It would be best if you were more careful than ever. How to Keep the Nesting Box Clean? Taking care of puppies can be quite tiring. Once the puppies are born safely in the box, it would be better to change the sheet or the beddings. The mother will take care of it. However, from the second to the third week, the real work starts. It will help if you make sure that the box is clean. While cleaning the box, you can keep the pups temporarily in a warm blanket. You need to replace the sheet or newspaper at least twice or thrice per day. However, keeping the box clean prevents the puppies from possible bacterial infections. It also helps to keep the puppies clean. You should see that the nesting box is clean and dry. So, like a responsible dog owner , make sure that the box is clean and warm. Changing the Whelping Box to Other Areas Once the puppies have passed the first week, you place the box in other areas. It will help them to get used to the new smell and sounds. However, make sure that the place is quiet and warm. Some kids would like to hold the pups, which would be too early and maybe dangerous. During the first two weeks, puppies are pretty delicate. So, it would be best to keep far away from children. The first three weeks are a crucial moment for you and the pups. The puppies are in their developing stage, and they need a quiet and calm environment to grow. So, you should make sure that puppies are kept safe and warm. They would be too young to take the regular food and would cause indigestion. But you can keep water for the mother. They get very thirsty while taking care of the puppies. She requires good protein and energy to keep the pups fed through her milk. You can place the food in the water once they can move or walk. However, make sure that the food is easily digestible. Also, puppies tend to eat food without a limit. So, you should give the food moderately. Overeating can cause indigestion and vomiting. Hence, it would help if you were careful not to overfeed them. It offers a sense of security to the mother and the dog owners as well. Having a nesting box helps to keep the puppies from going astray. The first three weeks are crucial for the puppies to grow and develop healthily. Having the right size of the whelping box can help both the puppies and the mother move freely. It allows the mother to breastfeed the puppies comfortably. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to arrange a whelping box. It offers safety and assurance to both the mother and puppies. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. A whelping box is an important item to have when puppies are about to be born. You can construct something yourself or buy a specifically designed boxes from pet stores. When can puppies leave the whelping box? Puppies can often leave the whelping box at 3 weeks old. At this age, puppies can move out of the whelping box as they become more mobile. Puppies can stand up and even climb out of the whelping box nest. At this age, puppies start to explore outside of their nest, to find out more about the wide and exciting world around them. Well, I can tell you that a whelping box will help you and the mother cope better with a horde of tiny puppies in their first few weeks. What is a whelping box? Also known as a nest or whelping pen, the whelping box is a container designed to keep the newborn litter in one safe and cozy place. The mother also likes to have a place where she can give birth to her puppies in comfort while having a sense of security. Whelping means to give birth hence the name of the box. It should be placed in a quiet part of the house and set up a couple of weeks before your dog gives birth. This gives her time to get familiar with the box. Image via Pixabay. What can I use as a whelping box? If your dog is a little girl, you could convert a large, sturdy cardboard box into a nesting box. You can make your own if carpentry is your hobby or you could go to the local pet store and buy a whelping box. What to look out for when picking a whelping box You need to make sure you pick a whelping box that takes into consideration the following factors: The sides are high enough to keep the puppies safely contained in their first 3 weeks but low enough for the mother to move in and out freely. The size is big enough to accommodate all the puppies being born. The bottom of the box may come with whelping pads or you can simply line it with newspapers and a soft blanket. Some breeders will use wood shavings to cover the floor of the box. Some whelping boxes come with an extension which is great for more active puppies who are still too young to leave the pen but are moving around quite a bit. Picking the right whelping box goes a long way to keeping mum and pups comfortable and secure. When is the right age for puppies to leave the whelping box? Puppies develop and mature very quickly in their first few weeks. A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Keeping the puppies in one place and even using a heat lamp will help keep them warm. And, when the mother needs time out, she can leave the box and get some space knowing her pups are all safe in one spot. A whelping box gives you peace of mind your puppies are well-protected, staying warm, and not disappearing once they start crawling. But be ready for the exodus once they reach 3 weeks old and might start walking! How do I keep the whelping box clean? If your dog gave birth to the puppies in the whelping box, you would need to change the bedding once all the puppies are safely delivered. Keep them warm with a blanket. Use a non-chemical cleaning detergent and warm water to wash out the box. Remove any dirty bedding and replace with clean blankets, newspapers or wood shavings. Some breeders do put in a litter box for puppies once they start crawling. This could be the first step to house training your pups. Do regular inspections throughout the day to make sure the whelping box is always dry and clean. Can I move the whelping box to other areas? Once your puppies have passed their first week, you could consider moving them to different areas in the house. But remember, you need to keep them warm so make sure there are no draughts and the puppies are not too intimidated by the new environment. Be careful also with handling newborn puppies when moving them. For the first 3 weeks, the puppies are small, developing, and can be easily disturbed by too much activity around them. Do I need to put food and water in the whelping box? The puppies will be drinking milk from their mother for the first 3 to 4 weeks, before moving onto water. For the first 3 weeks, you could keep a bowl of water in the box for the mother. She will be very thirsty while nurturing her puppies. However, once the puppies start becoming mobile keep both the water and food outside the box. Conclusion Get ready for a whole lot of fun, but also stress. She will take them no doubt but being able to help just a little with whelping boxes, nesting, and more will make it so much easier for you. You might also like…. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Pick up the puppies individually and hold them for several minutes at least once a day. Avoid letting small children handle the pups, as they can be too rough. While dams may be protective soon after delivery, they usually allow other people and animals around the litter by 3 to 5 weeks. The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Take them out of the whelping box and let them play in penned, puppy-proofed areas. Introduce them to various surfaces, such as carpeted and hard floors, and give them safe dog toys with interesting shapes and textures. Be sure that the treats are tiny to help prevent unhealthy weight gain. Schedule play dates, and allow your puppies to meet and interact with new furry friends. When introducing a cats and dogs, a dog should be leashed, and a cat should have an avenue to escape if it feels threatened. Go to source Keeping the puppies with their litter and mother for 8 weeks is a must. Separating puppies prior to 8 weeks can lead to long-term behavioral issues. Puppies are highly adaptable, so most adjust to a new home within a couple of days. Go to source Having a familiar object can make a puppy comfortable with its new surroundings. These diffusers, sprays, and collars mimic the pheromones a mother dog produces, which can help soothe a puppy after it's left the litter. During that first three weeks we weigh the puppies daily, trim their toenails every days, and put new collars on them every days as their growth is so rapid. The standard puppies are weighed on a regular digital scale and should gain an ounce a day at first and then up to ounces daily, whereas miniature puppies gain in a tenth of an ounce to start with and then an ounce or two a day. Jenny with litter at birth in 4' x 4' whelping box with lots of absorbent padding. Tasy in her "birthing bed" with the first three pups of the TS5 litter "Tasy" moves into her "doll crib" after the puppies are born - shown here at 3 weeks of age. We find it essential that the dam have food and water inside her whelping box the first week, however once she is willing to leave the box for short periods of time it can be set just outside the box, otherwise she will not eat and drink enough to provide all the milk needed for the puppies well being, and if you are not supplementing with goats milk, your puppies can suffer from dehydration. The standard dam has to produce almost two gallons of milk a day by the time a litter of puppies is two weeks of age. That's twice the amount a good dairy goat gives, who is at least double the dam's body weight. We find that goat milk, canned or fresh, is a much better supplement than the commercial formulas, as we have better weight gains and hardly ever have diarrhea in our puppies. If you have more than 8 puppies it is also essential that the dam's tail area and vulva be washed each time she goes out to go, as since there are not enough teats to go around there will always be a puppy trying to latch onto the vulva. The puppies can pick up bacteria and worm eggs, and a one celled organism called coccidiosis in this way which can lead to diarrhea. Mandy with AM3 Litter x Sterling at 1 week old. We practice what we call "giving the puppies an opportunity to learn" as a puppy raising method. We whelp the puppies in one corner of the living room where we have easy access to the box. We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. This is the first stage of their house breaking. Within hours the smartest puppies of the litter, barely able to crawl, will crawl out to use the paper and then crawl back into the whelping box. Within a few days the entire litter will usually be using the paper. Supplementing the puppies these first weeks gives us a good chance to play with the puppies feet, and get them used to their faces being handled for grooming, however even when we don't supplement we take time daily to handle every puppy and get them used to different textures, smells, and having their feet, faces, ears and tails handled. At three weeks of age when the ears open we start their cereal feeding, and use a soft clap with a "come, babies" command each time they are fed. This leads to the next step in the transition of removing the second box and the addition of a paper lined exercise pen to the whelping box at four weeks of age. At this time we start walking the puppies outside about every two hours from AM to PM. During this time ,the 4th-5th week, we teach them some basic commands - "in", "out", "potty outside", "walk", "watch", and continuing with their "come" command. Once they have understanding of these basic commands we then take them out to an outside play yard, regardless of the weather. It's really important to have this set-up close to an outside door if possible, or to use sections of an exercise pen to make an aisleway directly outdoors. Puppies can be carried outdoors, however their "potty outside" is learned much faster if they walk out the door in tune to the "out" command and the "potty outside" command at the same time. Usually within two days my standard puppies have quit having messes on the paper and are actually asking to go "out" - often at AM at this stage, and I do get up to accommodate them as this speeds their training amazingly, and I have a lot less mess to deal with - and less dirty crates when that time comes along. You can see that I do sleep within hearing of the puppies - usually until those we are continuing training with for their new families are weeks old. TS5 Miniature Litter - 2nd day of cereal feeding and 1st trip outside to the "big" world. We also start the grooming training at 4 weeks of age - starting with a bath with a soft water spray in a utility tub, and using a soft flow warm air dryer and a slicker brush - brushing the coat up the body toward the head, and up the legs toward the back as it dries. We always groom on a table, or the washer or dryer, or a counter - this is essential in getting the puppies used to being groomed on a grooming table and getting over any tendency toward the fear of heights. We cuddle them in our arms on the table to help them feel loved and secure, and to build their confidence level. We try to take pictures at birth, day old individual pictures, then every week thereafter for their new families, and for our albums. We also try to take litter shots as well at the various stages. I find that special touches add a lot of enjoyment, both for us raising the puppies, and for our families who are kept in the "link" of their puppy growing from infancy to toddler weeks. A Tasy x Promise Puppy before his first grooming and after his first grooming. My, oh my, what a difference!! We also start the worming program at four weeks of age - and this is really essential if you occasionally have a puppy that coughs after feeding, or vomits back up milk or cereal. Round worms are the one type of worm that the puppies can get in utero, and they grow as fast as the puppies. A heavy case of worms can often mimic other serious conditions in young puppies. It is also essential to use a low dosage of wormer in cases of heavy infestation, and at times give the puppy a few drops of oil by mouth, and possibly even an enema with a few drops of oil to help pass the worms. We use pyrantel pamoate for our first series of wormings. It is essential to worm every days until no worms are seen - these worms look like spaghetti - and once you see a litter of puppies pass them you never forget them. The wormer works in about six hours and is very effective. We have a computer generated health record that we complete on each puppy, and note all the worming's on it and on the litter weight records as well. Once the worming has been done, and if the teeth are coming in on the entire litter we start adding softened and mashed with potato masher kibble to the puppies cereal mixture - gradually reducing the rice baby cereal. During the next two weeks we gradually start adding cooked rice, cooked oatmeal, scrambled eggs, cottage cheese, ground apple and carrot, and a supplement Green Vibrance which has microbials in it to their soft feed. As soon as the puppies are able to eat dry kibble well and not just play with it we gradually reduce the soft feedings to AM and PM. The puppies often prefer dry kibble during times of heavy teething, however dry kibble no matter how well promoted does not meet all of their nutritional needs. Also the more organically chemical, steroid, and low grade antibiotic free a puppy can be fed, the better for its health and longevity. We keep our puppies on microbials their whole life as this keeps their intestinal system in optimal health - they absorb more nutrients, they produce less fecal material, they are less prone to other bacterial infections, they don't have smelly gas, they are less prone to bloat typical in a number of large breeds , they have better pigmentation as a result of absorbing more nutrients. We have also found that since taking this approach to diet that puppy and show coats on adults are more luxurious. As you can see their fourth week involves a lot of changes for the puppies. At six weeks of age we start the weaning process - although most "mothers" have already started it. A poodle "mom" is the most devoted creature ever the first week or two, but after that usually reclaims part of her own life to be with her human family. She will return to the whelping box every few hours to take care of her puppies needs, but other than that spends her time on a blanket or pad outside the box. Using a higher powered water spray, a higher powered table dryer, and if the coat is still thin enough a palm pro clipper again to clip the face, feet, tummy and tail. At this time Mishelle also adds standing the puppy properly on the table and does the first scissoring around the tail head and up the rump - as much to get the puppy used to the sound and feel of the scissors as because there is that much coat to scissor off. This is also when we try to take the first pictures of the puppies in a nice stance to send to everyone. This also helps to train the puppy for standing on the table which benefits when we do the conformation evaluations at 8 weeks of age. Puppies fearful on the table are very difficult to assess. This is also essential for miniature puppies that are going to be shown. It's very sad when a miniature is put on a table in the show ring for the judges inspection, and is fearful. Just minutes a day on a table, being encouraged to stand and be touched, can make a remarkable difference in just a week. A Maddy x Calvin puppy at 6 weeks of age after her 2nd grooming Six weeks is also when we remove the whelping box, as the mother now just gets in with the puppies about 4 times a day and either sits or stands to nurse them. She also starts to regurgitate her feedings for the puppies at this stage. The teeth are starting to come all the way in at this time, and the puppies will start sparring, and at times will really yelp. They learn at this stage not to bite each other too hard, and this is the first step to them learning not to bite humans too hard. We often have families who want to get their poodle puppies at this age, especially if they are going to training in agility. We do not allow any puppies to go to their new homes until they are weeks of age, as we feel that they need the "sibling rivalry" stage to learn aggressive and defensive behavior - which is learned by their interplay with each other. Many of our poodles go to homes with runners, and I can't tell you how many times they have had to defend their owners from aggressive dogs of other breeds, and always successfully. You never know when your poodle may have to come to your defense, and the maneuvers they learn as puppies at this age are the foundation for their defensive techniques, increase their alertness, and the speed of their thinking and their reactivity time. I love watching the puppies develop their skills during playtime at this stage. It is their transition from infancy to toddlers. It is also at six weeks that we remove the whelping box replacing it with two small crates without the gates on. Our favorite crates are the Furrari's, as they just snap together, and the gates can be opened from either side and simply lifted off for this stage of training. The first night all the puppies will crowd into one small crate - then I will hear them in the middle of the night groaning and grumbling, and in the morning the puppies will be divided between the two crates. That day we add a third small crate, and go through the same process - which we repeat until there are two puppies per crate. We never put the gates on at this stage, just allow the puppies the freedom to sleep in or out of the crates, and to play with them. We estimate that a poodle puppy develops 21 years in it's first year. From infancy to toddler, to preschool, to kindergarten, to pre-adolescent, to adolescent, to pre-teen, to teenager, to post teen, and early twenties. Their intelligence is equivalent to that of many humans, and the learning of human vocabulary in a standard poodle is amazing. They are a joy to work with and to train, many almost training themselves. At this point we start giving the puppies rawhide chew bones to help with their teeth cutting, the cardboard rolls from toilet paper, paper towels, tape rolls, and small boxes that they can pack around, tear up and destroy. Much like a toddler builds a stack of bricks and then knocks it down destructive stage so also does a puppy need to go through this stage. So we give them things that don't cost anything, that are light weight, and the right size around for a puppy jaw to pick up. They love it. We also start giving the puppies soft and hard toys to play with, and also try to observe which puppies in the litter are water lovers - they play in the water and empty the container almost as fast as we can fill it. We often get asked for puppies that like water by families that boat, or live on rivers or lakes, or on house boats. We start watching closely for the different types of personalities that the puppies have, how they relate to each other, to new situations, to new people, to other animals they come in contact with. Those that are more adventuresome, more curious, more courageous, etc. We are also watching for activity levels and how they move. It is also at weeks that we take the puppies to the back yard to play - as they are then big enough to be taught to go up and down steps. We have closed back steps, and open backed steps like condos and the steps at the air cargo depots for them to learn on. This can be quite a challenge to some, and we usually have to delay this training with the miniatures for a couple of more weeks when they are a bit bigger. They are so proud of themselves when they achieve success in going up and down the steps, even though it is just three steps - and will run up and down just for the joy of it. In the back yard they also learn to drink from an automatic waterer, so that they don't fear the hissing sound as it refills. Having nice clean feet, faces, and tail head and rump helps us to evaluate the puppies much better, and they will score better when all can be seen and evaluated. We do not give the puppies any treats prior to testing, nor do we do any actual crate training in closed crates. At this age the puppies get their first bath in the grooming tub with a harder spray of water instead of in the utility tub. The Force dryer is used for the first time, and the Andis or Oster clippers. This is also the clipping that helps us to determine the color that the puppies might end up as - blues and silvers are born black, silver beige and cafe-au-lait can be born very dark brown, light apricots that are going to cream out - we study the nose, feet, heels, and under the tail and neck for signs of color change. Tasy x Promise Pup - Black - at 8 weeks! A Mandy x Sterling Pup - Silver - at 8 weeks. Silvers and blues are born black and change gradually - starting with the muzzle and feet We try to schedule temperament testing 16 tests and conformation evaluations a three page form using AKC breed requirements, International breed requirements, and Puppy Puzzle testing at 8 weeks minus or plus three days, as this is the most accurate time for assessing conformation before the puppy starts its rapid growth spurts. This is at times a little early for temperament testing, however as so many families want their puppies at 8 weeks of age, it is necessary to do this before the litter starts to go to new homes. Often our entire litters are reserved before they are even born, or at least by the time they are 6 weeks of age, and this helps us to match puppies and their capabilities and personalities and temperament to the homes they are going into, especially the puppies that are shipped across the United States. This also means asking our prospective families for lots of details about their home style, their activities, other pets or animals in or around their homes, and what they want to do with their puppy as an adult. We also help families at this point to decide the best age of puppy to suit their lifestyle, as many families in todays age have difficulty getting the time those first weeks to house train a young puppy. The weekly cost covers food, treats, training, vaccinations and wormings. Temperament testing is beneficial, although there are those that disagree. It is done in a strange place by a strange person. It's purpose is to note the natural instincts and adaptability of the young puppies, and our families have found our assessments to be pretty accurate as their puppies have developed. The disadvantage of testing at 8 weeks versus 12 weeks, is that puppies can be conceived over a ten day period. The gestation period is days, with all of the body development being in the first 50 days, and the weight gain being in the last days. If the bitch whelps according to the first puppy conceived, then the last puppy or puppies conceived may not have had much weight gain - however due to genetics it will not always be the smallest puppies. When we do temperament testing we also try to be aware of which puppies opened eyes first and last, which had teeth coming in first and last - as these can be indicative of which puppies in the litter are the oldest and the youngest - as the psychological development can also be different, with the thinking processes of the youngest not being quite as developed as the thinking processes of the gestationally oldest puppies. In temperament testing we are looking at social skills, inanimate object retrieving instincts, sensitivity testing, chase response, bird retrieving instincts, perseverance and motivation. These help to determine which puppies might be best suited as companions, service and therapy candidates, agility and obedience prospects, those with "bird" instincts, and very important today those with good search and rescue and tracking instincts. Conformation evaluations are where we literally take a puppies body structure apart and put it back together again - all on paper. We are looking for the few puppies in a litter that are the most correct by breed specifications in bone structure. As companions for runners, horse back riders, hikers, bikers, etc. Most of our standard puppies, after 10 years of breeding are quite structurally correct - however we try to match structural correctness, temperament and personality to the needs of a family. To be a pick of the litter puppy it must score high in all three areas. At times a structurally correct puppy may not have the best temperament for competitive events, and a senior family doesn't need a puppy with a high working drive. When we complete the testing we vaccinate each of the puppies and tattoo them with their individual identification number - that designates their dam, her litter number, and the number of puppy within the litter - in their left ear. This tattoo must be read and entered in the medical records of the puppy by the families veterinarian at the time of the "well puppy check" within 10 days of receiving the puppy for our 2 year from date of birth guarantee to go into effect. As soon as the testing is completed we start crate training the puppies. The first night two puppies are put into a crate with the gate on, and given 3 small treats. They are cuddled before being put into the crate, and we use the "in" command which they are used to. When they are taken out in the morning they are hugged and cuddled again, and given their "go potty outside" command as we take them "out" the front door. The second night they are crated individually, and are also crated during the day for short periods of time, to get them used to taking "naps" in their crates. They are always given three tiny biscuits when we want them in their crates, and usually within three days they compete to see who can get in the crates first and turn around for their treats. Usually at this age the puppies will crate from approximately PM to about AM without having accidents in their crates, however I do get up in the middle of the night and let them out if someone gets really fussy. In hot summer weather they at times need out during the night to get a drink just as much as they need out to go potty. We always make their last soft feeding of the day by PM, so that they have plenty of time to evacuate before bedtime. Remember poodle puppies are very smart, and if they get me up several nights in a row - I watch very carefully to see if they really needed to go - and if not they have just decided to get me out of bed for some extra attention and playtime - remember the pre-adolescent who wants another drink of water, etc. They will test their new families in the same way, and if they win they are ruling the family instead of the family ruling them. At this point the puppies are ready to go to their new homes to families living locally, or those driving from other states to get their puppies. If they are flying we keep them for two more weeks - and ship when they are approximately 10 - 12 weeks old. This allows us to start travel training and leash training of the puppies, and allow them to develop better holding capacity for daytime crating before shipping. Also it gives us time to receive family t-shirts worn until sweaty and placed in ziploc bags to give to the puppies in their crates three days before shipping. Having items of clothing which we tie into knots for a pillow or toy allows the puppy to get used to it's new families scents, and helps it to adapt and bond much more quickly. It also gives us time to ship their puppy pack to them, before the puppy is shipped. We follow up on our puppies for years, and encourage our families to keep in touch with us and contact us with any questions regarding nutrition, training problems or needs. We also board our own puppies back, which is wonderful as then we get to assess their development and personalities as adults. We have families now who purposefully plan their vacations for the Oregon Coast just so they can leave their much loved poodles with us - they come from as far away as Montana, Idaho, north eastern Washington, California, Utah, and of course the closer regions of Oregon and Washington. Unless we are expecting a litter imminently they get to come back and live in the house with us, and always enjoy playing with so many other poodles in our huge back yard, and side yard play areas. We also continue any training that is in progress on the younger puppies. A Mandy boy at 15 weeks! A Lucy daughter at 1 year - sent by her family in Idaho Many of our families also return with their puppies to take the one-on-one grooming classes with us - with Mishelle now being the primary instructor. Many of our families are now doing all of their own grooming, and even if they aren't have found the class very beneficial as they have learned what to expect from a good groomer. Many have returned for second and even third classes to learn advanced scissoring techniques, and several are now learning show grooming and handling from us as well. It's biblical that the older are to teach the younger - and we feel very strongly about this after not finding anyone willing to assist us when we first started out. We want those who have a true desire to become breeders of the poodles to start in the right way, learning to do the proper testing and research, taking part in genetic research projects, learn to groom their poodles properly, and to breed properly, caring for their whelping bitches and puppies correctly. Mishelle should have been in the picture with "Eve" but was in the Show Ring with her instead. She groomed 14 standards and 2 miniatures for this show. The poodle is a wonderful and unique breed - sharing life with it's family. Stages of Puppy Development Birth to 3 weeks The first 20 days of a pups life it is not capable of much learning. The mental capacity is about nil. The pup will react when it is in need of food, sleep, warmth and its mother. During the first 3 weeks it is VERY important to look after the dam as well. She will in turn, look after the puppies. Once or twice a day the puppies should be handled by a human and they should be weighed daily. During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. Newborn puppies sleep most of the day away. No matter what the breed, this is the time when the dormant senses wake up. From day 21 to 28 puppies are in need of their mom more than any other time as their brains and nervous systems begin to develop and they become aware of their surroundings. As mom jumps out of the box, they suddenly watch her wondering where she went. Pups may start climbing out of the whelping box at this age, so it is time to expand their home. At this stage we add a small potty area beside the whelp box. If a puppy were to loose his mom at this stage it would greatly affect his emotional wellbeing. Emotional growth is just blossoming as the puppy realizes it is alive. It is also at this age that characteristics can develop like shyness and fear. Any negative characteristics that develop at this stage in life are often permanent personality traits. The puppies sleep 20 or more hours a day. They will not go far, but they will begin to explore. At this time we expand their area to add a play and eating area in the daytime. This is the time to move them out to the kitchen and family room area, where life is happening in the home. This is not the age to be in the back bedroom, garage or barn. During this time, a puppy will learn to respond to voices, sounds and recognize different people. The puppies in their group will establish a 'pecking order', some will want to lead and some will want to follow. The dominant ones will eat first and the omega ones will wait. The dominant ones can become bullies and hog all the toys. This is an important stage to watch to learn the temperaments of each puppy and should be used for placing puppies into the proper homes. Some scientific studies prove that if there is a bully in a litter that is making others cower and be shy it can set in traits that are very hard to turn around, but it is also important to leave puppies in a social group long enough to be adventurous and for the puppy to acquire some social competitive skills. On the same note, a puppy should never be allowed to get too pushy. While shyer puppies have to learn to handle themselves in social groups, a dominant puppy needs to learn it is not acceptable to be a bully. Different breeds need to be separated at different ages. Often if the bully is adopted out first the remaining puppies will loose some of their shyness. Puppies at this age sleep 18 to 20 hours a day. By 7 weeks, a pup is considered emotionally developed and ready to learn, but the pup does not possess an adult brain yet. At 7 weeks old the breeder of the pups can start crate training for an hour or two a day with 2 pups in a crate. This helps with separation anxiety. By 8 weeks of age a puppy should be able to go in a crate alone for a nap, and it is almost ready for its new home. A puppy should never be taken away from it's mother before weeks of age. The mother dog teaches the puppies in the litter manners, respect, social skills, and proper etiquette, along with many other valuable lessons. When a puppy misses this stage it can cause the pup to have future behavior issues as most humans do not understand natural dog behavior enough to teach the pup these things. What a puppy learns now will be retained and become part of who the dog becomes and his personality. Most dams stop caring for their pups by 7 weeks, as they have teeth and she pushes them away. If a pup is left with the dam during this period it's emotional development can be altered, as it remains dependent on her. The same can happen if littermates are placed together. They rely on each other instead of the new owner and they often do not find adequate security in their mom or littermate. They need their new owner to take over the role and it is important that the humans understand natural dog behavior in order to fulfill the puppies instincts and needs. First shots should be done at 7. When a puppy stays with his litter after 8 to 9 weeks of age without adequate human contact it doesn't adjust as well to a human social life. The optimum time to take a new puppy is from 8 to 9 weeks of age. It is always best to have a pup do his learning from his new owner and in his new home. Puppies are often adopted out at 8, 9, 10 or 11 weeks. Older puppies can do just fine if the breeder has spent a lot of time socializing them away from their littermates. Ideally 9 weeks seems to be the perfect age for most breeds to go to new homes. What the dog learns from 8 to 12 weeks will be with him forever. At this time the puppy must be introduced to other people and go for walks on the pavement street avoiding dirt or grass until it has had its 2nd shots. If the first shots are done at 8 weeks and second are done at 12 weeks it is a good idea to enroll in puppy kindergarten that starts right at 12 weeks. At this age on up to several months old, puppies will sleep 16 to 20 hours a day, give or take depending on the puppies energy level and the activity around them. Sleeping more during rapid growth sprurts. The sleep is broken up between night time sleep and naps during the day. It is common for a puppy to play hard, running around with bounds of energy, then suddenly crashing into a deep sleep. It is important to keep in mind that all puppies by this time have formed a general personality. Some are natural born leaders, some are middle of the road and could go either way and some are very submissive and really prefer not to lead anything. All puppies have an instinct to have a leader who can provide structure, because in their minds without it the pack cannot survive. Therefore even the most naturally born submissive dog may feel the need to take over as an alpha should they feel everyone else around them is too weak to care for the pack. These dogs are often very stressed out about their role because they really do not want it, but feel the need to lead just the same. After all, to them it's a matter of life or death. One of the biggest questions new owners call about is that the pup is an angel for the first couple weeks and then it starts to nip in an attempt to control things around it. This happens when a puppy does not see the humans as natural born leaders to which it can respect and it attempts to get the pack in order. If this happens it does not necessarily mean you got a bad puppy, but often means you are not being a good canine owner. Owners must be calm but firm and follow through. Set the rules of the home and stick to them. Teach basic obedience and how to heel on a leash. Do not let the puppy bolt out the door. Stay calm and confident and remember that dogs can feel your emotions. If you have emotional problems your dog knows and will see you as a weak being. Always remember to a dog anger is a weakness, so take a deep breath and control yourself. Should the puppy feel it is stronger minded than the humans it will not want to be at the bottom. Puppy owners should be prepared that the pup may attempt to establish itself as the dominant one in the family. This is where you need to understand a dog's natural instincts and learn their language so you can read them. It may see whether it can physically strike out at his owner like some teens and could nip or growl. Should this happen be prepared to stop the behavior immediately. It is kind of like kids wanting dessert before dinner or to stay up later. You just have to say NO. Each dog is different, just as kids are, therefore you need to figure out what works for you and your situation. If it is being aggressive one method is to pin it on its back and hold him there with a firm NO. If a pup is allowed to get away with bad behavior it will lose respect for the owner and learn that rebelling gets him his own way. The key is for the humans to be calm, confident and firm all at the same time. If you find yourself yelling or angry you as the human are out of control and need to learn how to portray yourself as someone your dog can look up to and respect. Dogs do not listen to unstable humans and anything but calm, confident and firm, to them is unstable. There should be zero tolerance for aggressiveness. Heaps of love and understanding will not stop bad behavior. A pup must be shown fast and firmly that you are the one in charge. If you have a good breeder who understands the dog even returning him for a few days can help as the breeder gets the dog back under control and you assess your own behavior and understanding of this animal you are trying to live with. Sending a dog away to be trained without training yourself never works, as the way your dog is acting often has more to do with the humans it is living with. This goes for any dog of any age. Learn how to groom your dog. Teach it to lie still for grooming and nail trimming. If you are having trouble call the breeder or a behaviorist for help. It is best to have earned a dog's respect and trust in regards to grooming by 16 weeks of age. A pups natural instinct will be to periodically try to test the order in the pack. Especially if there are children. If the owner is submissive, quiet and week, thus making the dog feel the need to lead the home, its respect for its owner will weaken and the owner will become inferior in the dogs eyes. In these cases the owner is destined to be owned by the dog and you will surely see behavior problems emerge. A puppy should have a good start on crate training when it leaves a breeder's home. Help your puppy feel secure by giving it its own bed and crate in a place where it can be alone when it needs some quiet time. It should be crated for one or two naps per day, especially when making and eating dinner and crated at night. It should not ever have the run of the house till after 6 months of age or housebreaking and training can become very difficult. A puppy should start formal obedience by 6 months of age, preferably sooner. Remember when you choose to adopt a dog you are choosing to take an animal into your home. The animal is not a human baby and humans are not born with canine instincts. Take some time to learn about the canine and be prepared to change your way of life to accommodate the new member of the family. The puppies have arrived. They have been weighed and identified; they have nursed and are now sleeping quietly except for the normal twitching. Now what? Your job is not over yet, in fact, it's really just beginning. Nutrition and Feeding The mother will be ready for some food and water. Bring the dishes to the whelping box, as she will not want to leave the newborn puppies. Do not leave the dishes on the floor in the whelping box, as the puppies could crawl into them. Hang the dishes from the side of the whelping box or offer her food and water at least every hours to start. She should be taken outside on a frequent and regular basis to relieve herself. Within days, the mother's appetite will dramatically increase to times her pre-pregnancy intake. She will need a near constant supply of a high quality puppy food do NOT use large breed puppy formulas, which are generally lower in protein, fat, and minerals and water to maintain her weight and health while feeding the puppies. She should not look gaunt or thin if her weight is maintained. Ideally, she should weigh the same at the time of weaning, as she did when she was bred. A healthy puppy is firm, plump, and vigorous. Puppies should nurse every 2 hours or so. If they nurse until their stomachs appear round and they sleep quietly, they are eating enough. If they are crying and moving a lot, they are not eating enough. They may be swallowing air, which makes the stomach appear larger. As they become weaker, they will lay still and not cry. Their weight should double in the first days. Before, during, and after nursing, the mother will lick the stomach and perineal area to stimulate urination and defecation. She will continue to do this for weeks. Weigh the puppy daily for the first 2 weeks, then weigh at least weekly. A food scale typically works well for weighing the puppies. Failure to gain weight is often the first sign of illness in puppies. At about 3 weeks of age, the puppies will begin to imitate the mother's eating and drinking. A secure shallow water dish should now be available at least part of the day. Prepare the puppy mush by placing 2 cups of high quality dry puppy food in a blender with .This should be blended until the consistency of human infant cereal. This feeds puppies of a medium-sized breed. The puppies should receive meals a day of this to start. Once the puppies have checked it out, walked in it, and have eaten some, the mother can be allowed to finish it and clean the puppies off. Each week, increase the amount of food, decrease the amount of the milk replacer and water that is added and the time of blending, so by 7 weeks of age, the puppies are eating dry food. Once they are on dry food, it may be left in with the puppies when the mother is out of the box or the meal times can continue. As the puppies eat more solid food, the mother may be let away from the puppies for an ever longer period of time. If the weaning is not rushed, she will naturally start decreasing milk production, as the puppies increase their intake of solid food. As the puppies begin eating the puppy mush at 4 weeks of age, start changing the mother's diet back to adult food to also help her decrease milk production. Keep increasing the adult food and decreasing the puppy food until by the 7th week postpartum she is eating only adult food. Hopefully she has been fed well during pregnancy and lactation so she weighs the same at weaning as she did before pregnancy. Want to learn how to save on your dog's veterinary care? Click here Sanitation and Housebreaking During and after whelping, the mother should be allowed to go outside to urinate and defecate. Take her out on a leash bring a flashlight if it is dark , and watch her closely, as she could have another puppy. The whelping box needs to be changed at least once a day at this stage, and times a day as the puppies begin eating solids and the mother is not cleaning up after them. A large heavy paper may be laid on the bottom, several layers of newspaper over that, and a tightly stretched blanket over the newspaper. The blanket should be large enough to fit under all 4 sides of the box. If the box was made so the sides set into the floor, the sides are picked up, the blanket stretched, and the sides set down to hold the blanket in place. Puppies can become lost under blankets or under wrinkles in blankets. When cleaning, check the consistency and color of the puppy stool. It should be brown and formed, but not overly firm. Any deviations and the veterinarian should be contacted. To facilitate housebreaking, the puppies should be given definite feeding, playing, sleeping, and elimination areas. Once the puppies are mobile, they will use one area for elimination. Cover this area with a layer of newspapers with cedar or pine shavings on top. The new owners then place a small amount of cedar or pine shavings in the preferred location of their yard to aid in housebreaking. Keep the elimination area clean and dry. Puppies head toward the heat source to nurse so do not have the heat source warmer than the mother. Hanging a household thermometer on the inside of the whelping box will help you know the temperature in the box. Puppies typically lay side by side or on top of each other to share warmth. If the puppies are scattered throughout the whelping box and away from the heat lamp, the temperature is too warm. If they are all piled on top of each other, it may be too cold. Puppies need the extra heat, as they are unable to regulate their body temperature until several weeks old. Health of the Mother Each mammary gland and nipple should be checked at least once a day for redness, hardness, discharge, or streaking color. If mastitis develops, the veterinarian should be notified immediately. If caught early, milking out the affected gland and applying hot compresses will help prevent a spread of the problem. Sometimes, antibiotics are necessary. If she gets multiple glands with mastitis, the puppies will need to be bottle fed. The puppies' nails should be trimmed weekly starting within days of birth. This will help prevent some of the scratches on the mother's mammary glands. The deciduous teeth start coming in around day .Check the mammary glands of the mother daily for bite marks. The mother will have a bloody discharge from her vulva which may be quite heavy for several days. It should decrease in amount and become darker and be almost gone within weeks. The mother's hair may have become very thick and luxurious during the pregnancy. Around the time of weaning, the mother starts to shed. This extreme loss of hair coat is natural and it should be back to normal in about another months. This shedding is more extreme than a normal shed cycle and some mothers become quite bald. This is often called 'blowing a coat. Click here Puppy Healthcare Puppies who are not thriving should be examined as soon as possible by a veterinarian to check for birth defects. Some defects, such as a cleft palate are not compatible with life. These puppies should be humanely euthanized. Dewclaws are removed and tails docked at days of age. Make an appointment with your veterinarian for these procedures to be done. Check your breed's standard, as some breeds need to have dewclaws left intact in order to show. Tail length changes, so again, the current breed standard should be consulted. When the puppies are at the clinic and having these procedures done, the mother should be taken for a walk around the block until the puppies are done. She should not be close enough to the clinic to hear the puppies crying. Once they are put back with the mother, the puppies normally nurse and then sleep. Vaccinations are started at weeks of age. Some breeders give a parvo virus vaccine at 5 weeks of age, if the puppies are at a high-risk. Ask your veterinarian if your puppies should be vaccinated early for parvo virus. They recommend puppy deworming for roundworms and hookworms start at 2 weeks of age and be repeated at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Thereafter, use a heart worm preventive medication that is also effective against hookworms and roundworms. Foster and Smith suggest that owners of newly acquired puppies obtain the deworming history of their new pup and contact their veterinarian to determine if additional deworming is needed. The mother should be dewormed at the same time as the puppies. A health check done by a veterinarian at weeks of age before the puppies head for new homes should include checks for heart murmurs, hernias, cryptorchidism, demodectic mange, other parasites, eye disorders, etc. Normal puppy development The umbilical cord normally falls off within days of birth. Infections of the umbilicus are rare in clean, well-managed kennels. Puppies normally twitch and jerk while sleeping. This helps with the development of their nerves and muscles. The puppies crawl well by days, walk at 16 days, and have a normal gait at 21 days. They need to be on footing that offers traction. By 4 weeks of age, the puppies follow each other and carry toys in their mouths. They will play-fight with each other and learn how to inhibit their bites. If a puppy bites a littermate too hard, the littermate will yelp and stop playing with him. If the puppy is allowed to bite humans, he will not learn to inhibit his bite. It may be cute as a 7-week old, but it will not be as a 7-year old. Puppies are born without teeth. The deciduous baby teeth start to erupt at weeks of age. All of the deciduous teeth are usually present by 8 weeks of age. The puppies' eyes will open around days of age. The retina matures around 21 days of age. Puppies should see clearly by 4 weeks of age. Do not pry open the lids for any reason, as the immature eye is not yet ready to handle light. If the eyes appear swollen before they open, take the puppy to a veterinarian immediately as an eye infection may be present that needs to be treated to prevent loss of vision. Some puppies will take a day to open the eyes while others will take days. The eyes will have a bluish color to them at first and then change to their adult color over time. If the eyes appear white or solid blue, take the puppy to the veterinarian right away. The ears open at days of age. They should hear clearly by 4 weeks of age. Deafness may not be noticeable while the puppies are together and first noticed when the puppy is in her new home. Interactions Between the Mother and Puppies By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. The box at this point should be big enough to be divided between eating, sleeping, playing, and eliminating rooms. At this stage, a crate with the door removed and lined with sheepskin or a dog bed can be given to the puppies for sleeping quarters and to familiarize them with crates. Puppy Socialization Early socialization of the puppies will help them become confident and develop fewer behavior problems. The puppies should be exposed to everything possible from metal food dishes dropping, to vacuums, garage doors opening and closing, thunderstorms, sirens, garbage trucks going past, cats, and other pets, etc. Do not try to keep the area quiet during the day. The puppies need to get used to normal household noises. Children should be allowed to play outside the whelping box supervised so they do not enter the box or drop toys in , as children behave differently than adults. Everything the puppy is exposed to now, will help her become a well-socialized, unafraid adult. The puppies should be handled several times a day. They can be picked up, their teeth looked at, ears checked, toes played with nails will need a weekly trimming , and have anything that may be done as an adult started slowly now. Play helps to develop the puppy's mind, as he needs to find solutions to problems he encounters. If the puppies are not in new homes by 10 weeks of age, they should be separated from each other for a large part of the day and given one-on-one time with humans. They can have play times during the day, but they should eat, sleep, and be handled separately. Being in a kennel group situation beyond weeks of age decreases trainability. Ready to start saving money on pet wellness care? Then take a look at Mint Wellness, the pet wellness plan that provides fast reimbursement on routine pet care. Save on vaccinations, wellness exams, preventatives, dental, and more!