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The modern Labrador was developed from water dogs discovered in Canada by visiting rich, English hunters in the s. When they brought some of the dogs back to England, breeders further developed the Labrador Retriever we know today. Nor does anyone know exactly how the recessive gene responsible for longer coats found its way into the Labrador gene pool. One theory is that early Labrador breeders used other, long-haired retriever breeds as part of their development, bringing the recessive version of the hair coat gene with them. Bred as water retrievers, specifically for cold weather and frigid lakes, Labs needed the right coat to keep them warm as they worked. The long-haired Lab coat is thinner and wavier, making it neither as warm nor as easy to keep clean. However, most Labradors today serve primarily as family pets, not hunters or show dogs. Long-haired Labs have become more popular as the breed itself has become the most popular dog in the U. The American Kennel Club accepted its first Labrador registration not long after, in .Although their coats are outside of the breed standard, long-haired Labradors are still considered purebred dogs and are eligible for registration. The coat length of all dogs, including Labs, is controlled by a specific gene: FGF5. In Labs, the dominant trait of this gene is the short-haired version, while long hair is recessive. Puppies inherit genes from both of their parents. Parents with two dominant genes LL only pass on the short-hair genes. However, parents with one dominant and one recessive LI can pass on the long-haired trait to their pups. If both parents have LI genes, some of the litter will receive two recessive genes II and grow long hair. Image Credit: Africa Studio, Shutterstock 2. Anyone interested in breeding their Lab should consider having the test done unless they are okay with getting some fluffy pups. As long as at least one parent has only short-haired genes, the pups will come out with breed-standard Labrador coats. They Shed a Lot! Labradors are considered a heavy shedding breed , and the long-haired version is no exception. No matter their top coat length, all Labradors produce a thick, warm undercoat. They shed this full undercoat seasonally, typically in spring and fall, producing enormous amounts of hair. Long-haired Labs also shed some fur year-round. Because their coats are longer and finer, they may need more brushing than short-haired Labradors to keep them tangle-free and clean. Their coats may look different, but in every other way, long-haired Labradors are typical of the breed that has topped the popularity charts in the U. They are smart, friendly, loving, and energetic, as all Labs should be. Although combining some recessive genes can result in deformities and health issues, the FGF5 gene is only responsible for hair growth. Those without the space, time, or energy to keep up with these pups should consider a different breed. There are long-haired Labradors that typically have a longer coat than other types. This is caused by a recessive gene and is less common than short coats. The fluffy coat type is present in all three colors of purebreds, yellow, chocolate, and black. Labradors were used as gun dogs in the past, and their thick, short coat was ideal for working on a hunt in inclement weather. The long, wavy, glossy coat of the long-haired Lab is less suited for this kind of work. To explain where long-haired Labradors come from, we have to talk about heredity, dominant traits, and recessive traits. Some Labradors have long hair due to a recessive trait of a gene called fibroblast growth factor 5, abbreviated to FGF5. Two copies of the genes, one from each parent, are required to express the long coat. Carrier puppies that inherit one copy of the gene will have normal short coats. To elucidate further, a Labrador pup receives one version of the hair length gene from each parent. Each version of the gene is called an allele. In the FGF5 gene , short hair is a dominant trait, and long hair is a recessive trait. If the pup has one short hair allele and one long hair allele, the dominant short hair trait cancels out the recessive long hair. This pup will also pass the recessive trait on to their offspring. If they mate with another dog that has at least one copy of the recessive trait, there is a good chance the offspring will also be a long-haired Lab. Long-haired Labs shed a shocking amount of fur, just like their short-haired counterparts, due to having a double coat. They shed year-round and shed more than usual twice a year, typically in spring and winter, when they will change their coat ready for the season ahead. The Labradors topcoat is longer and slower-growing. This is the coat that you typically see. The undercoat is softer, grows quickly, and keeps the dog warm. Investing in a Roomba is my advice! Are Long-Haired Labradors Purebreds? Long-haired Labradors are purebreds. Except for the length of their hair, they have exactly the same pedigree as short-haired Labs. Although the American Kennel Club recognizes them, they are severely penalized for conformation, but a slight wave down the back is acceptable. For dog shows, dogs have to adhere to very specific standards appearance-wise. Breeders even go as far as to deliberately breed Labs to eliminate this genetic trait. This is one of the reasons why most Labradors have short coats. If you go the breeder route, make sure you buy from a reputable breeder. If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is. This tip mainly applies to dog owners who buy from breeders. The stakes are a lot higher in the purebred dog game. Unfortunately, some breeders have been accused of selling mixed-breed puppies as Labradors simply because they have the long-coat trait. Anyone unsure of the parentage of a puppy with such a coat should have it DNA tested. This is because most people who adopt from a rescue do so to give a dog a home rather than own a dog with a valuable pedigree. When adopting a Lab puppy, you should budget not only for the initial purchase but also for the costs of taking care of your dog. This includes food, puppy training, and vet bills for vaccinations and checkups. Veterinary care will be the most expensive part of dog ownership. Long-Haired Labs as Good Family Dogs Besides the different hair lengths, long-haired Labs are the same as other Labs in physical size, shape, and temperament. They are friendly, enthusiastic dogs who are extremely gentle toward children. For this reason, the Labrador is a favorite breed among families. Labradors are also good for seniors as long as the owner is quite healthy and active. Seniors will also usually have more time to spend with their dogs, especially if retired. If breeders have worked so hard to bury the recessive long-hair gene, why does it continue to show up? The answer is pretty simple. They just want a fluffy addition to their family. Final Thoughts If you are contemplating this breed — whether the popular short-haired or the rarer long-haired variety, all Labradors make good first dogs. Overall, Labradors are viewed positively by pet owners. They are friendly, non-aggressive, affectionate, and easy-going. The length or texture of their coat does not affect this. Related Posts You May Like:. Short-Haired vs. The breed can be bifurcated into a Long-haired English Labrador Retriever as well as a short-haired Lab. A typical Labrador can be characterized as a 55 to 80 pound, short-haired dog with a life span of years. However, for those who love dogs with long locks, though not very common, long-haired Labs are also bred and can prove to be great pets. This breed was developed from imported Canadian fishing dogs. The Labrador is one of the most popular dog species in various regions all across the globe. They come in three colors, i. Genetic Differences The distinct feature of the long-haired Lab has to be its length and much finer double coat than typical Labrador Retrievers. The long-haired Lab owes this to the difference in the genetic makeup of both types. Long-haired Labrador Retriever has a combination of two recessive alleles genes , which result in lengthier coats. This gene is called the fibroblast growth factor 5 gene. Geneticists have termed it the FGF5 gene. However, it is known by the name of the L gene by the Labrador breeder community. The L gene has two alleles forms. L, which is the gene for short hair, and l, which is the one that produces long hair. L is the dominant one amongst the two. So, whenever a combination of both alleles is formed for the new offspring, the L form masks the effect of the I allele, and an individual with short hair is produced. All offspring get one allele from each of their parents. If both mates from the combination 'Ll' or 'LL,' the offspring will have a coat that grows up to be short-haired. In contrast, if both parents pass only recessive genes, it will result in an 'll' combination, and the puppies will grow up to be long-haired. One thing that needs to be noticed is that whenever two different alleles Ll combine, it results in an offspring that does not show the effect of the recessive allele but becomes a carrier of the gene and may pass it on to the next generation where the gene may show its effect. In this case, if a puppy gets a combination 'Ll,' it will be short-haired but may result in a long-haired offspring by mating with a long-haired ll or a heterogenous Ll individual. Which is the Pure Breed? When a Labrador Retriever is talked about, a typical image of it that automatically comes to mind is athletic, steady, and with a thick, glossy, short coat. The standard says: "It should be short, straight and very dense, giving a fairly hard feeling to the hand… A slight wave down the back is permissible. However, this restriction does not exclude this breed from the list of purebred dogs. Long-haired English Labrador Retrievers are, in fact, purebred dogs that can be recognized in breed registries. The long coats only disqualify them from the show bench but keep them as pure of a breed as the typical ones are. Although, some breeders believe that exclusion from the literal definition should deliberately lead to no long-coated type breeding. But the continuous demand and adoration by the families as pets will never let this happen. Who is a Better Pet? The most relevant question that arises is: Can long-haired pets be good pets or not? Fortunately, the l gene has not been seen to have any other effect on the offspring except for the change in the length of their coats. No health issues, no other special characteristics. Just the long locks and nothing else. Long-haired English Labrador Retrievers have all the great traits that can be found in the typical ones, be it friendly disposition or special affection towards children. So the answer is a big fat yes! You can definitely pet these cute, faithful creatures. Labrador's thick, oily, double coat has always been the species' intrinsic characteristic which protects them from wind, rain, and harsh weather conditions. This helps them tolerate the worst environments without any significant effect on their health. A long fine coat makes the body more vulnerable to environmental conditions. Also, long hair is a bit more difficult to clean. So, the selection is based on your personal liking of you as a buyer. If you find long hair cuter on your pet and can handle all the extra fuss that comes along with the long hair, then why not go for what your heart desires? Which Breed is More Common? If the long-haired breed is ignored by the main breed registries to this extent, it surely means that the vast majority of Labradors that are bred in the present day are the typical short-haired ones. This in no way means that it is hard to find a Long-haired English Labrador Retriever. This breed is produced by several breeders in the country. You will not have to search much to find one for you. Bathing your long-haired lab might require more effort and time but once done, it makes it look and smell its best. To avoid the long locks from matting during the bathe and make the bath as smooth and enjoyable as the both of you want, brush your dog's hair beforehand. It is recommended to use some conditioner in a reasonable quantity after shampooing the hair. Don't forget to use it with diluting products so that it reaches and cleans every part of your dog's long coat. The residue from the products can be harmful to the dog's skin, so make sure to rinse thoroughly with water. It is a long and hectic process but the results will be worth it. It is advisable to use a slicker or bristle brush to bathe your short-haired Lab, as a pin brush may injure the vulnerable skin. Remember not to use any bathing products for use by humans. The ingredients which are beneficial for human hair may prove to be irritating to a dog's skin. Be careful with the shampoo as it can easily slip into the dog's eyes, nostrils, ears, or mouth, which in this case are not covered by hair. Verdict: Which One to Buy? The major difference between both breeds lies with the genetic makeup of the two of them. The different genetic combinations lead to two different coats, i. Long-haired Labs do not come under the typical Labradors definition, which leads to it being the less common breed among the two. Short hair breeds are easy to take care of. All other characteristics make both breeds quite the same. Therefore, the buying decision should more or less be based upon the mere appearance of the two. Go for the one that appeals to you the most. Bring your very own English Labrador home now! Contact us to learn more. Tweet on Twitter A long haired Lab is a Labrador Retriever with two copies of a recessive gene which causes them to grow a longer, finer, wavier coat than typical Labradors. Long coated Labs are still purebred dogs which can be entered onto breed registries. But their coats disqualify them from the show bench. Some breeders believe that since long coats are not part of the Labrador breed standard, long haired Labs should never deliberately be bred. But many long haired Labs are adored family pets. So who is right? Are There Long Haired Labs? The classic image of a Labrador Retriever is easily called to mind: athletic, steady, and with a thick, glossy, short coat. All gazing patiently at the camera and sporting silky, wavy coats. How is that? Long haired Labs owe their coat length to a very specific gene, called the fibroblast growth factor 5 gene. The fibroblast growth factor 5 gene is also known as the FGF5 gene by geneticists. And as the L gene by Labrador breeders. The L gene comes in two forms. L, which produces short hair, and l, which produces long hair. The L form is dominant, which means whenever it is present it overrides the effect of the l form. Puppies who inherit the combination LL grow up to have short hair. Puppies who inherit the combination Ll also have short hair. And finally puppies who inherit the combination ll will grow a long coat. The difference starts to appear at around six weeks old, when it becomes clear their coat is just going to keep on growing. Fibroblast growth factor 5 is a chemical signal, which acts on hair follicles and tells them to stop hair growth while the coat is still short. Long haired Labs are still Labrador Retrievers through and through. And as long as they have a proven pedigree, they are still purebred , and can be registered as such. Where does it come from? Since the gene is recessive, it can easily be passed down silently through the generations, and only be expressed very occasionally. Do Long Haired Labs Matter? But why is that? And is it justified? As we all know, Labradors are first and foremost a gun dog. They have a long and illustrious past working on hunts in all weathers and all seasons. Their thick, oily, double coat has always been an intrinsic part of their ability to do that. It protects them from wind and rain so that they can go on working in all conditions. But a long fine coat is less protective against the elements, and also less practical to clean after a mucky day of field work. But how do they get on in the far more modern role of family pet? So can long haired Labs be good pets? The answer is certainly yes! Long haired Labs have all the same wonderful traits as their short coated brethren, including a friendly disposition and gentleness towards children. But for many generations, the recessive gene has appeared unbidden and unexpectedly in Labrador puppies after years of being hidden. And the result of this test might well be included in the paperwork they offer you when you register your interest in a litter. Most Labrador breeders will avoid mating known two carriers together, since their litter is statistically likely to be one quarter long haired. The Importance Of Carriers When a Lab with the genotype Ll and a Lab with the genotype LL have puppies, approximately half of the litter will carry the l gene, but none will express it. Using all the genetic information available and making measured decisions like this are an important way that Labrador breeders can maintain genetic diversity and avoid inbreeding, whilst still producing puppies that meet the breed standard. If you are thinking of mating your own Labrador, these tests and decisions are also something for you to think about. Long Haired Labs — Summary Long haired Labs are the result of a genetic combination which is very unusual in the Labrador Retriever breed. Nonetheless, it is possible for purebred Labs to inherit a long coat. Where long haired Labrador puppies have appeared in litters by surprise, they a disqualified from the show bench. But they usually go on to be much loved family pets instead, with owners who love them even more for how distinctive they are. Did their coat come as a surprise? Do you think further breeding of long haired Labs as pets should be discouraged? References and Resources. Long Coats Ashland Labradors Let me be clear.Below is our experience. We now have the ability to screen our dogs to prevent producing any more long coats in our litters. We hope other breeders do the same. Long Coated Labradors? After 29 years in the Labrador Breed, it finally happened. I got Long Coats! Three in ONE litter. No, they are not rare and we surely did not breed to purposely produce long-coated offspring. Matter of fact, this was a repeat breeding which a litter of nine pups born to the same parents 2 years earlier produced NOT ONE long-coat puppy. Go figure! Long coat puppies are born looking just like their normal litter-mates. Wow, coat, bone, head, tail. WTH happened? Someone stole my pup and replaced it with a Flat Coat. .Ooh my!! The long-haired coat is inherited as a autosomal-recessive trait. Because I want to share this information freely, so people can learn more and be "assured" that if YOU happen to produce a long-coat, it is NOT the end of the world. I feel breeders should be much more open instead of secretive. Why some breeders feel they need to "hide" the fact that there stud dog or bitch is a long-coat carrier is ridiculous. It would only appear to help other breeders make better breeding decisions and avoid intentionally breeding carrier. For anyone wanting to do more research into bloodlines of which our long-coats were produced, please click here to see the pedigree. There are many theories on how the long-coat gene originated in the Labrador Breed. This was the only British retriever to be selected for the dominant smooth coat. Modern Labrador retrievers are almost universally smooth-coated dogs. However, although seldom, a long-coated puppy is born. The exact origin of these modern long-haired Labradors isn't exactly clear. They could have always been hidden within the smooth-coated St. I think a much more likely source for this coat is cross-breeding. Labrador, golden, and flat-coated retrievers were considered varieties of a single breed, and interbreeding the varieties was very common. When the Labrador retriever needed fresh blood, it was occasionally bred to wavy or flat-coated retrievers, which may have included dogs we would call golden retrievers. The Dukes of Buccleuch and the Earls of Malmesbury tried to keep their dogs from being bred to long-haired retrievers, which is one reason why they were so eager to import more smooths from Newfoundland. However, other breeders certainly did outcross. We present the following information about the fluffy long-haired coat for reference only, as it is a coat type that has been proven to be present in purebred Labradors. It is unfortunate that some breeders have been accused of selling mix-breed puppies as Labradors simply because the puppies exhibited the long-hair trait, so it is our hope that this article will be of help to those breeders, and encourage anyone who is unsure of the parentage of a puppy with such a coat to have it DNA tested, now that such a test is available. At about three weeks of age we started to notice something different about the two yellow boys. They started to develop curly hair on their ears—then on their legs. By the time the litter was five weeks old it was clear that these puppies were very different from any I had whelped before. By now I was concerned that perhaps some other dog had entered the picture as well, and yet I was confident Light had not been with any other dog. It came back quite clear—Buddy and Light were certainly the only parents of this litter. At the time no such test existed for Labrador Retrievers, although a protocol had been developed for other breeds. Randy Smith at the laboratory agreed to develop a protocol for the long-hair gene in Labradors. The wait was brief, and very quickly Dr. Obviously, the parents both carried the gene and it appears to be a simple recessive much like gene for the color yellow. The question now remained—where did it come from? Some more research has uncovered that long-haired Labradors are fairly common in Europe, where indeed the long-haired Weimaraner is generally accepted by breeders. There have been several reports of the gene showing up in European-imported Labradors. The problem for us as breeders is that these puppies really do not look the way we expect Labradors to look. In addition, there are other characteristics that appear to be consistent with the longer coat, such as larger size and denser bone. The extrapolation is that perhaps this gene is a throwback to the ancestral St. There are at least two theories on how the recessive gene of long fur has appeared within the bloodlines of the Labrador Retriever. The first is that it is an original dog legacy St. However, there is no evidence of this, and also the dogs St. The other theory speaks instead of using flat coated retrievers at the beginning of the century. According to some, this was done to strengthen the bloodlines in England were weakening, in the early , and again after World War II. Obviously, there are no certain traces of this in the pedigrees of the current dogs. The separation of this was based on the coat length because all the puppies were yellow. Apparently the third generation showed some parts of the original breed. Based on his research, I analyzed all of fluffy labrador pedigree in my possession, starting from that of Brida, our first fluffy, through the pedigree of Disel that being born in Russia should be very far from that of Brida , and then other engines in my possession. For all the pedigree we analyzed both parents. It is understood that this research does not want to give the final answer as regards the presence of a recessive gene long hair in Labrador Retrievers. Here are the results so far encountered. In all analyzed pedigree, there is a common ancestor, which is also identified in the original design of the Chocolate. It is Sandylands Mark. Based on the pedigree of Sandylands Mark, we can go back in time to find more of a flat coated retriever: Filleigh Jet passing Bee of Whitmore, and his many heirs in the pedigree of Sandylands mark, such as Tatler of Whitmore and Tag of Whitmore and downdrafts. In database Labradornet. It would now to check if between the long-haired Labrador specimens, or recessive nevertheless be established, there are that they are not in some way attributable Sandylands Mark, and in the case trace their blood lines up to verify if even in those cases they are of the flat. The presence of a common ancestor to all fluffy Labrador, in which there are multiple lines primigene Flat Coated Retrievers, however, would seem to be a confirmation of the facts, and that the recessive gene introduced with the flat is so historical legacy of the Labrador Retriever breed.

We are an Australian Labradoodle breeder, breeding only the finest Australian Labradoodle puppies. Our Australian Labradoodles are outstanding in every way. They not only have regal beauty but soulful natures and outstanding temperaments that are consistent within our pooches. Read More Our years of dedication to breeding selection with an emphasis on conformation, health, temperament, and overall regal beauty are evident in all our Australian Labradoodles. Since , all our breeding dogs were handpicked by me from the finest Australian and American lines. The following colors of Australian Labradoodle puppies with beautiful non-shedding coats can be found here: Red, Apricot, Cream, Carmel, Chocolate, and Black; other colors and patterns available on occasion. It was an honor to serve as President for our breed an organization from to .Prior to that from to I served in various committees as well as the Vice President. We are proud to go to such great lengths to health test ALL our breeding stock! We are honored to be accredited by the Better Business Bureau and offer their seal of approval. You are truly getting the cream of the crop when you purchase one of our precious pampered pooches. Enjoy our website and if at any time you have any additional questions feel free to contact us through our Contact Us page. Be sure to follow us and keep up on the latest news! We started with Bulldogs which is still a great love of ours. Unfortunately in my husband and our son Grant developed terrible allergies, it left us looking and researching a new breed. We started researching other dog breeds that were hypoallergenic or allergy-friendly. We fell in love with the majestic beauty and regal elegance of the Labradoodle and purchased our first breeding Labradoodle in .The minute we saw them it was love at first sight. Here you will find general information on the Australian Labradoodle breed including size, coat, and coat types. Australian Labradoodles are very loving, social, highly trainable and excellent companion dogs with majestic beauty that compares to no other. Their eagerness to please and smart, soulful nature makes them perfect for therapy work or a perfect family pet. We raise high-quality Mini Labradoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini labradoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high-quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! F1B Mini Labradoodle Puppies are a second-generation cross or hybrid. The father is a Mini Poodle and the mother is an F1 Labradoodle. The F1B Minature Labradoodles usually have soft hair that is usually wavy or curly. Thes puppies are considered semi-hypoallergenic since they shed minimally. These puppies can be a good fit if a person that has mild pet allergies. Once F1B Mini Labradoodles reach 6 months old they require to be groomed once every 8 weeks or so to keep their fur healthy and to stop matting. Adult F1B Mini labradoodle dogs range in size from 14 inches in height and pounds in weight. The average life span is typically years of age. The F1BB puppies usually have curlier coats and will be totally hypoallergenic. Once the F1BB pup is 6 months they will need regular grooming every 6 to 8 weeks. F1BB Puppies are usually slightly smaller than F1B puppies and range from 12 inches in height and pounds in weight. Mini Labradoodles are known for their intelligence and the ability to be trained very easily. They make amazing family pets and love to participate in family activities like swimming, hiking, camping or just playing tag in the yard. This breed is also a good choice for people who live in apartments as long as they get at least minutes of exercise a day. So if you live near Bakersfield California and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Labradoodle puppy that can be delivered to you then check out our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Labradoodle pups that have been adopted. Then look no further than an Australian Labradoodle! Australian Labradoodles are exceptional dogs for individuals, families with children, and anyone who wants a friendly and loving pet. At Country Club Labradoodles, we breed the finest Australian Labradoodles and match them with the perfect forever families throughout California. Labradoodle Puppies for Sale in CA As dog lovers, we believe every dog deserves to live a long, happy, and healthy life in a home filled with love and care. The stimulation, exercise, and initial training we provide help our Australian Labradoodle puppies become confident, well-behaved, and affectionate dogs. All our Multi-Generation Labradoodle puppies for sale are up to date on vaccinations. We breed variations of chocolate, cream, and caramel-colored Labradoodles. Although our breeding program is in California, we offer puppy delivery and shipping options throughout the continental U. Australian Labradoodle Guardian Homes Occasionally, we hold back certain puppies from our litters with especially exceptional pedigrees, personalities, and traits for future breeding. However, as we are a small breeder and believe dogs need as much human interaction as possible, we like to put our breeding puppies in loving guardian homes. As a guardian, your Australian Labradoodle puppy will be part of your family, live permanently in your home, and be cared for by you. New puppies coming end of the year accepting deposits. Puppies coming at the end of August. They will be chocolate and white, caramel and white approximately 30 to 35 pounds full grown. Puppies coming in October, will be approximately 25 to 30 pounds full grown.

A corner of the living room, dining room or other area where family regularly gathers is an ideal location. Crate location is particularly important at night, especially for young puppies who often need to go out for a potty trip at least once before morning. Keep one in the common area where your pup will hang out during the day, and one where they sleep at night. How to Crate Train a Dog: Step by Step One of the secrets to kennel training success is giving your dog plenty of time to feel comfortable inside the crate before closing the door and leaving them alone for the first time. Spend as much time as you need on each step to ensure that your dog feels content and stress-free. Ready to dive into crate training? You can also entice your dog with a busy toy stuffed with treats—anything to make that crate as appealing as possible! Stay happy and upbeat as your puppy explores the crate, making sure to give lots of praise when they go inside. At this stage, keep the door open. Practice this step as many times as necessary for your dog to get comfortable in the crate. At this stage, the choice to go into the crate is up to your pup. If your dog is hesitant to go inside, you can give treats to reward baby steps in the right direction, like if they glance at it or take a step towards it. These small successes will encourage your pup to keep it up! Then, provide a lightly stuffed busy toy for them to enjoy inside the crate. Stay nearby as they enjoy the goodies, and experiment with closing the door while your pup is enjoying the toys and treats inside. Let your dog out right after they finish the treats, or at any barking, whimpering or pawing at the crate that might indicate they want to come out. Again, keep at this step until your dog seems relaxed and shows no signs of stress inside the crate. Listen at the door for whines or barks that tell you your pup is ready to come out. But at this stage, your dog may surprise you by settling into the crate easily. In fact, if you time your play session, potty break and crate time properly, you might just return to discover a napping pup in the crate! If your pup remains content inside, try leaving the house for a short period of time. This is especially important for puppies, whose "hold time" is still developing. Doing so might force them to soil inside. That means a 4-month-old puppy can hold it for about four hours. Remember, play and excitement can make your pup need to go out more frequently, too. For adult dogs, avoid crating them for more than four hours. That means that you should plan for a mid-day break if you'll be leaving your dog crated during the work day. Feeding your dog's meals in their crate with the door open can help to make it a positive spot. The crate should never be used for punishment. Check out our tips on dealing with dog separation anxiety and puppy separation anxiety in particular, and talk to your vet for advice tailored to your unique pup. Read More. She is awesome! We love her dearly, I am the main care giver, my name is Marlette. The question is we have been consistent with Charlotte about sleeping in her cage, not with us. This is one Poodle who hates her cage. She does not bark or wine long but she does not sleep well in her cage. She gets up at in the morning and soon after wants to sleep during the day when she sits with me. I know this because I check her to see if she needs to go potty. After I find out she's okay she runs to my bedroom stands at the side of my bed I still put her back in her cage. It is so hard! I put a blanket, toys, treats but she would rather be with me then go to her cage. My husband thinks I hold her to much, I do feel she wants time with me in the day time and I am most happy to play, cuddle, train her then knowing she was in her cage all night. Charlotte only takes an afternoon nap in her cage. Charlotte loves to be with me if I leave the room she looks for me follows me everywhere. Could this be the problem? Answer: Hello There! This is one of the Poodle's most endearing qualities and it is why so many people choose to have a Poodle. Poodles love to be with their human family members and can become quite sad and despondent if they are not allowed to be close to their human. There definitely needs to be some adjustments to how things are being handled at night. However in regard to spending time with her during the day, there is no such thing as too much time with a dog. You are not spoiling your Poodle by holding her;you are simply giving Charlotte what she naturally needs.However, regarding the cage.There are several elements to consider: 1 You don't say how large or small this cage is; however we are assuming it is a small crate type enclosure. Metal wire cages are just terrible for dogs as the wire grating can cause havoc on paws. And both small crates and cages are too confining for a dog to be in overnight. For your Poodle's comfort, we would suggest choosing a designated area that would hold her dog bed and toys. This can be a small gated off area or an indoor canine playpen. You would leave the entrance to this open when you are home so your Poodle can enter into it when tired and wanting to take a nap and you would close it at night, to keep her secure and in one spot while sleeping. However, there is no reason to check on her as often as you do. Just the sound of you approaching may wake her up; dogs can hear so much better than we can. As you are tiptoeing up to her cage, most likely you think you're being super quiet but she hears you coming. So, from her perspective, she is sleeping or at least resting quietly , you come up to her. She believes that you are initiating interaction, so she in turn runs to your room. But wait! You really didn't intend for that.You put her back in her cage and now she's really confused. Is she supposed to sleep? Is she supposed to wait one more hour until you tiptoe back in? Is it a game.With your Poodle puppy being 4 months old, she can hold her urine for 4 hours. It is important that Charlotte learns to control her bladder as she grows up. At 5 months, she should be able to hold her needs for 5 hours.And then no matter how old she is, 8 hours will be the maximum time that she will be able to hold her bladder. And there is no need for you to be waking up so often. So, as you can see this is really not a matter of your Poodle hating her cage; it is just a matter of mistakenly training her to think she is supposed to keep leaving it to run to your room. As a side note, be sure to take her for a nightly walk about 2 hours before bedtime to tire her out, have the last snack of the day no later than 1. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share Us. They prefer a quiet, confined, enclosed area where they feel safe and secure. In fact, the proper use of a crate can help in housetraining, provide secure travel, lower the stress in a dog, keep a dog safe in certain environments, and keep him from damaging his surroundings. Wire crates vary from heavy gauge to lighter weight types which fold and store easily. Wire crates allow total ventilation and enable the dog to see everything in his environment. That visual stimulation may be too much for some dogs. Some dogs may pull or chew on the sheet covering the crate. To avoid this, place a piece of thin plywood on top of the crate. The plywood should be large enough to allow the sheet to hang a distance from the crate where the dog cannot gain access to the sheet. Plastic or metal airline crates are required to ship a dog by air. Most airlines have specific crate requirements for canine shipping, so consult with your airline carrier. An airline-approved crate also offers greater protection to the dog in an accident. Plastic airline crates separate into two halves which can be stacked for storage. They are also safer for small dogs or puppies as there is less chance of a leg, paw or jaw getting caught in the wire. Fabric or soft-sided crates are light weight, fold easily, and are convenient when traveling. A dog must be completely crate trained before you can trust him in a soft-sided crate, because the crate can be chewed through or rolled and moved. For these reasons a soft-sided crate is not recommended for puppies. New crates can be bought in pet shops and discount pet food outlets, from pet catalogs, at dog shows, farm supply stores, department stores, or on the Internet. Be prepared to thoroughly clean and disinfect a previously-owned crate before using it. The price will depend on the size, manufacturer and type. Many come with a removable floor. Some can be ordered with doors on the side or the end, or both. Various kinds of crate pads are available to cushion the bottom of the crate. Most crate pads are washable. Most dogs are very accepting of a crate. Any complaining at first from a puppy is more likely due to adjusting to his new environment and perhaps the loss of his littermates. Place the crate in a room the family uses, such as the kitchen. Keep it out of drafts and away from any blowing hot or cold air vents. Start by feeding the Poodle in the crate. This will make the crate a positive place and enable him to eat without any interference from other dogs or children in the house. Establish a routine. Put him in the crate for naps, when he must be left alone for a few hours, or whenever a responsible person is unable to supervise him. Be sure to remove a collar with tags as it might become caught in an opening or wire grates. Most healthy puppies learn to sleep through the night within a few weeks. Large puppies such as a Standard Poodle can be clean through the night as early as 8 weeks. Smaller puppies may take a bit longer. Housebreaking can be achieved more quickly if the owner is consistent about using a crate routine. Keep the pup crated for as long as it can hold it, then take the puppy straight outside, giving ample opportunity for the pup to relieve himself. Give the puppy a lot of praise when he eliminates and then take him back inside for at least 15 minutes of free time before going back in the crate. The idea is to build up the amount of time the pup is able to both hold it and remain free in the house by gradually giving the pup longer periods of free time inside the house, then crating for a period of time before letting him back outside. If you find your puppy is soiling the crate pads, towels or blankets in the crate, remove them and keep the bottom clear of any bedding. Some puppies will soil in their crate and hide it in their bedding. If there is no padding, the puppy must sit in his waste. Some puppies are used to eliminating on newspaper, so the use of paper to line the bottom of a crate is not recommended. All crates should be large enough to permit the animal to stretch out flat on his side, stand up and turn around. If you do not know the approximate adult size of your puppy, buy the larger size. For an adult dog, use a crate close to his length, measuring from the tip of his nose to the base of the tail. The height and width of the crate will be proportionate to the length. A temporary crate is most convenient for a puppy. Look for a used one. If you must use an adult size crate, make it smaller by placing a large plastic box in the back or making a moveable partition out of wire or wood. Make sure whatever you use is safe and secure if the puppy chews on it. If the crate is too large it is not as effective a tool for housetraining, because the puppy can move away from where he has eliminated. There are very few dogs that will not accept confinement. While more common with adult dogs than puppies, there are a few which seem to show signs of claustrophobia when crated. Before giving up, try a different kind of crate. If, despite every effort to use positive methods, the dog is obviously frantic or panicked, it is inhumane to continue its use. These dogs can do physical damage to themselves trying to escape. It is always worth trying, however. In most cases, use of a crate will prevent or solve undesirable behaviors, enhancing the relationship you have with your dog. A dog crate is not recommended as a method of confinement for a dog regularly left alone all day, although some dogs may learn to tolerate it. If necessary on a temporary basis, the dog must be well exercised before and after crating. Additionally, he will need extensive personal attention when you are home and freedom during the night rather than being crated again at bedtime. It is also very important that the crate is large enough so he can stand erect and stretch out fully on his side. An oversized crate is recommended. It must also have a non-spill water dish. Ideally, someone will come during the day to provide a time for elimination and exercise. An exercise pen x-pen can be attached to the front of each side of a crate, allowing the dog or puppy more room to move about while still being confined and providing a space outside the crate for him to eliminate. For puppies, a crate can be used as a playpen for general confinement. It should be large enough for a sleeping space with bedding at one end and a papered area for elimination at the other. Again, a water dish must be provided. Be aware that a puppy raised in isolation may suffer from lack of socialization, leading to difficulties in training, housetraining, and poor social skills with other people and dogs. Dogs are social creatures, and a puppy that lacks sufficient human contact will grow up to be a poorly-adjusted dog and pet. You can leave your dog home alone, knowing he will not damage your belongings. He is protected, comfortable, and unable to get into trouble. Housetraining is easier as the close confinement encourages cleanliness and control. You can establish a regular routine for your dog and prevent accidents in the house. You can keep the dog from being underfoot or in the way during meals, prevent him from wandering outside when people might leave outside doors open, or when he becomes over-stimulated and needs time to calm down. You can travel with your dog knowing that he cannot get loose in the car or escape if a door is open and that he cannot distract the He is safely confined for his protection in an accident, and he has the comfort of familiar surroundings when away from home. If you plan to show your dog in performance venues such as agility or obedience, it is essential that the dog be crate trained. Your dog needs a quiet place to relax while at the show. Simply lead the dog to the crate, put him in, and close the door. He has his own space, a den, where he can retire when tired, stressed, or needing to escape too much attention from children in the household. He can avoid the consequences of undesirable behaviors that have been prevented. He can more easily learn to control his bodily functions. He can remain in proximity to the family when supervision is impossible instead of being banished to the garage or yard. He can be included in family outings and trips rather than being left home or at a boarding kennel. Feeling secure in a crate will lessen his anxiety when he has to be crated at the vet or groomer. Accustoming your dog to a crate makes shipping the dog much less stressful. You want a well-mannered pet, and your dog wants to please you. A dog crate can accomplish this for you both. Additionally, the cost of a crate is minor compared to the expense of replacing furniture, carpeting, or veterinary bills from your dog eating inappropriate and harmful objects. This information has been provided to you at no charge. You are free to use it provided it is used in its entirety with no changes or alterations and that the copyright remains intact. If you have found this information to be helpful, please consider making a tax-deductible donation to: Versatility in Poodles Franklin, NC To make a donation via PayPal, please click the Donate Button: The contents of the www. The Content is not intended to be a substitute for professional veterinarian advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of your veterinarian with any questions you may have regarding the medical condition of your pet. Never disregard professional advice or delay in seeking it because of something you have read on this website! If you think your pet has a medical emergency, call or visit your veterinarian or your local veterinary emergency hospital immediately. Versatility in Poodles and www. Reliance on any information appearing on this website is entirely at your own risk. Menu Start Right Away! The most wonderful tool available for helping you train your puppy is a crate. After all Canines are den animals. If the crate gives your puppy just enough space to sleep comfortably, he probably will not want to use the crate as a potty area. That means that when you cannot directly supervise your puppy you can keep him in his crate, knowing that he will instinctively control himself when in the crate — as long as you do not leave him in there longer than his little puppy bladder can handle! If you leave a puppy in a crate for more than a couple of hours at a time, you are setting him up for failure. If you take him out often you will give him the opportunity to get it right. That is the GOAL!!! If you take him out on a regular schedule this will be discussed under House-Training , you will have even better success. When purchasing a crate there are two things to consider. The ultimate size of your dog. Our Standard Poodles tend to range from 45 to 55 pounds and stand 22 to 25 inches high at the shoulder. Unless you are going to be buying different crate sizes as the puppy grows, it is best to buy a crate with a divider. My recommendation is that you look at www. They come with a divider. Your puppy has already been introduced to the crate. So Crate Training should begin immediately upon your arrival home. There are numerous training aids which provide guidance in this area. However, since it is important to begin a training routine immediately, the following basic tips will give you a start: Never push or shove your puppy into the crate Never use the crate as a means of punishment Coax your puppy in with toys or a treat Reward your puppy with lots of praise and another treat Also note: Do not leave your new puppy alone in the crate for more than 2 or 3 hours during the day. Your puppy will need to relieve itself often. Because they do not naturally like to soil their sleeping area this works in your favor for potty training. They will whine or bark so you can quickly take them outside. In this way the puppy learns to tell you when it needs to go outside and you should show your approval. This may be a little challenging at first when the puppy seems to whine to want out of the crate. You have to set the pace as to what whine or bark you will accept. Do not give in to every whine or bark. If possible place the crate in your bedroom at night until your puppy feels secure. This also allows for you to hear its whine when it needs to go outside to potty. Use old towels or blankets for bedding to begin with. For the first few nights placing something of yours with your scent on it will help your puppy feel more comfortable and secure. Soon your puppy will be sleeping through the night. You establish the times for going to sleep and waking up. Be consistent. Thereafter do not place anything in the crate until his potty training is well under way. The idea here is that if your puppy has an accident he will be wet and uncomfortable until you come to rescue him. When your puppy is dry and clean for two weeks straight then you can try giving him a towel and see how he does. When possible leave the door open during the daytime in a restricted area so that the puppy can go in and out at will. The crate is not only used to help you house-break your puppy but also to help you establish yourself as leader and set clear limits for your young puppy. A puppy that is not crated gets into lots of expensive trouble before he is full grown. Dogs do not suddenly outgrow destructive chewing and getting into things, so it is best that they never learn that they can chew or destroy furniture or other valuables. More helpful hints: The rule for puppies between seven to fourteen weeks old is that they are in their crate more than they are out. When they are out they are confined to a puppy-proof area and under close supervision. If no one is available to watch, the puppy does not receive freedom. Remember, your puppy is a baby and also needs a lot of sleep and down time. When he is out of his crate he is usually in overdrive, playing hard. After about fourteen weeks you can start to be a little less vigilant and see how it goes. If your puppy is getting into trouble back up and limit his time out to supervision time only. Gradually work toward having your puppy out for longer and longer periods of time without him getting into trouble. Also, do not give him the run of the house. Start in a small area and as he earns your trust widen the area he is allowed to be in. As he gets close to a year old you can gradually leave your puppy out longer while you are home with less supervision. However, make sure you check on him frequently to be sure that he is not getting into trouble. Crate him when you leave the house, at least for the first eighteen to twenty-four months of his life. Remember, he is not considered full grown until he is two years old. When your Poodle has proven that he is trustworthy while you are home, you can then allow him out of his crate while you are out. Start with short periods of time. Eventually, when he can handle small amounts of time, you can extend his free times to longer and longer periods, until he can be home alone several hours of the day. To prevent future behavior problems by giving privileges too soon, your puppy should sleep in a crate from day one. The crate can be in your room, but your puppy should not be allowed to sleep with you. Using a crate is an excellent way to ensure that your puppy will not destroy something valuable. Be sure also to have lots of hard chew toys available for him to chew on. Dogs that are given too much freedom too soon are bound to get into trouble and learn to be destructive. Many behaviorists and dog trainers agree that separation anxiety can be triggered by failing to set boundaries and limit freedom when a dog is young. A young dog that does not get too much freedom too soon can learn to be alone without becoming destructive. Before we go any further we want you to know that the training of your puppy has already started. The mother of the puppies start training her babies right away. It is a delight to watch her gentle but firm ways. One thing she teaches them is about keeping there eating and sleeping areas clean. Here at Poodle Mojo we aid the mother in the natural training process and then we continue the process so your puppy comes to you already potty and crate trained. It is up to you to know how and to continue in their training. Remember… In order to house train your puppy successfully you must crate train your puppy. If you are buying your puppy from us it will have already been introduced to the crate. Yes, we have heard some people say that a crate is cruel. Well, these people think dogs are people instead of canines. Dogs are den creatures. They like a safe place to be able to go to. They also like their own place. If you have to relate in people terms, well then, you have a house and you have a bedroom. Some of you also have your favorite chair. The first training priority for most new puppy owners is house-training. This is definitely job number one for any puppies living with humans. Therefore, the key to this process is to reward your puppy when he does what you want, and to keep him from ever making a mistake. Supervision is the KEY in this process. Young puppies do certain things when they are getting ready to relieve themselves. Typically, they begin to sniff the ground while moving constantly, sometimes in a circle, looking for a good spot. Until your puppy is well trained, go outside with him. The right spot should be a spot that you always take him to until he can go out by himself. The Schedule The most effective house-training is a combination of crate training and schedule feeding and potty training. And remember consistency is the key to success. Here is an example of a potty schedule for an 8 week old puppy: am — Potty. Fit the non-slip crate liner and add a comfy, cozy mat or bed. Provide your puppy with tasty treats and a couple of chew toys to tempt him inside the crate. A bowl of water is also essential that you can offer your puppy. Finally, you need to fasten the crate door open to prevent your furbaby from hurting himself if he bumps into it. Cut off a small piece of the blanket, and put it into the crate, wrapped up in the bedding. Keep the remaining piece of blanket somewhere safe and dry. You can now allow the puppy to investigate the crate. Poodles are curious, intelligent dogs, and you might even find that your pup goes into the crate immediately to eat the tasty treats inside. Poodles are clever pups who learn simple cue words pretty quickly, making your life much easier. You can begin using verbal cues from the get-go. Crate Feeding Crate feeding your Poodle can be a fantastic training technique, especially for shy, reluctant pups. Make a big deal out of dishing out the food so that your puppy gets excited. Now, put the bowl of yummy food just inside the door of the crate, out of reach of your puppy so that he has to go into the crate to get his meal. Next time you feed your puppy in the crate, move the bowl further back inside the cage. Eventually, your puppy should happily spend his meal times contained in his crate. Shut The Door Hopefully, your Poodle puppy will now view the crate as somewhere safe where he can enjoy his meals. Start by closing the crate door while your puppy is eating his meal. Be ready to open the door again as soon as the little guy finishes his meal. The idea is to keep your pet confined for around five minutes, but let your puppy out before he begins complaining. You should expect a small amount of whinging at this stage in the training process. If your pup starts complaining, turn around the ignore him. Once the puppy is quiet and calm again, you can turn around and open the crate door. If your puppy begins panicking and is distressed, open the door, and take a few steps back in the training process. Ignore the undesirable behavior, and wait until your pet desists and is calm again. Close The Door For Longer Periods If all is going well, you can start increasing the amount of time your puppy is confined to his crate. At this stage, your Poodle should be able to spend an hour or so in the crate before you let him out for a potty stop and some outdoor time. Potty Breaks Remember that your puppy must feel safe and comfortable when in his crate. So, you need to give your puppy some outdoor time every couple of hours and let him outside as soon as he comes out of the crate. Remember to factor in some bonding time after your puppy has relieved himself and before you put him back into his crate. After a month or so, you should expect your Poodle puppy to tell you when he needs to go out by heading directly to the door. By the six-month mark, your pup should be able to wait for around four to six hours before he needs to pee. Never expect your dog to wait for over eight hours before he has a chance to go to the bathroom! Clean Up Immediately! Unfortunately, accidents are inevitable when potty training your puppy, no matter how careful you are. Bad behavior issues can easily develop if your puppy becomes resentful of spending time in his crate. If the accident is outside the crate, clean your flooring thoroughly with an enzyme cleaning product. You must also clean the crate thoroughly to remove every trace of potty smell. Here are some harmful mistakes that you want to avoid. Never use the crate to punish your dog! Remember To Give Your Puppy Regular Breaks Very young puppies have extremely small bladders, so you need to remember to take your puppy outside for a bathroom break every two hours at first. The dog is a pretty hygienic animal, so you must not leave your puppy too long so that he has an accident in his crate, which would distress your pet and risk him associating his crate with bathroom spots. You must not expect an adult dog to wait for more than four to six hours before you take him outside for a bathroom break. You also need to socialize your puppy to be a well-adjusted, well-balanced dog. Final Thoughts I hope you enjoyed our guide to crate training your Poodle puppy? Please share the article if you do. Your Poodle should regard his crate as a safe spot where he can go when he needs to chill out and relax. The crate is also a useful tool for potty training your puppy and keeping your pet safe when you leave him home alone. Did you crate train your Poodle puppy successfully? How did it go? Tell us how you got on in the comments box below. Meet our writer Alison Page Alison Page was brought up with dogs and various other pets! For a few years, Alison worked as a Practice Manager in a small animal veterinary clinic. Alison is now a full-time writer, specializing in creating articles on the care and training of dogs, cats, and fish. Leave a Comment. There are three different poodle sizes — standard, miniature, and toy. Ranked 7 in breed popularity by the American Kennel Club, this wickedly clever canine breed can quickly be crate trained. How do you crate train standard, miniature, and toy poodles? The crate training process will be a similar process to training any canine breed. You will want to begin when a puppy to establish good habits early on and purchase a crate that is large enough for them to stand up comfortably. To crate train your poodle, no matter their size, you should follow these steps consistently: Introduce your poodle to their crate using positive reinforcement. Place treats and comforting items like blankets and favorite toys in the crate. Begin feeding your pup meals in the crate. Every two hours, take your poodle outside. Make sure that you are bringing them straight from the crate to the door each time. Ensure that every time the crate door is opened, you bring your puppy outside. Be mindful of giving your poodle adequate playtime and bonding time with you. Continue these steps until your puppy always goes to the door when they need to potty. This article will answer any questions you have about crate training, potty training, house training, and creating a better-behaved dog. It will cover each size variation and the details you need to know in caring for each unique poodle breed. Crate training can seem intimidating at first, but with a brilliant breed like the poodle, it will be a piece of cake! The process designates a safe space for your pup and instills in your poodle that, when they leave the crate, it is for a potty break. You may find it difficult or unsettling to leave your pup in a crate, especially during the first few weeks that they are home, and you want to cuddle and love your new poodle. However, establishing a routine as soon as possible will be the fastest and easiest way to guarantee your dog has fewer potty accidents in your home. How To Crate Train Poodle Puppies The process you will follow to crate train your poodle puppies consists of the following steps: Introduce them to the crate and use plenty of positive reinforcement. Positive reinforcement will be your greatest ally in the crate training method. It allows your puppy to feel safe. Set some treats or toys in the crate and have it decked out with blankets and other comforting items. Allow them to sniff around the area and decide for themselves. Start feeding them meals in the crate, making this a safe spot where they can let their guard down. Always keep water in the crate and make it a nice place to rest. Take your puppy out every 2 hours and always take them directly outside after they come out of their crate. Make sure that while crate training, especially in the early stages, when the crate door is opened, you bring your poodle pup directly outside. Make sure that they are getting a balance of play and bonding time but are still going out every two hours or so, then directly back to their crate. For the most part, this is what the first month or two will run until you can trust them to tell you when they need to go out by going directly to the door. By the 6-month mark, your puppy will be able to hold their bladder for around hours, but you should never make a dog of any age hold their bowels and bladder for over 8 hours. There is no exact timeline for how long this process will take because all dogs are different, but it should last around weeks for most dogs. You could see drastic results in the first week and be able to offer your poodle more playtime, but you should remain diligent no matter how fast your pup catches on. By the third month, they should be taking you to the door or pawing at it when they have to go. The goal of crate training is that they will be able to communicate to you when they need to go in the future. If they are showing significant progress, reward them with more freedom but continue taking them out at the same time while heading directly to the door each time. A great behavioral training course can really help with crate training. I found a fantastic training system called Brain Training for Dogs. If you need any behavioral training at all for your dog, I would highly recommend this course! Check it out here The Potty Schedule Outlined In case you prefer a more specific outline or blueprint for scheduling, the following list gives the times that you should make sure to bring your poodle outside to use the bathroom: First thing when you wake up in the morning Before each play break Every 2 hours or so during the afternoon After their nap After each meal about minutes after eating to digest and have to go badly After drinking lots of water Right before bed As you can see, your poodle should get plenty of time outside of the crate. If you are not offering them this free time, you are doing it unethically and irresponsibly. It will be a gradual process of integrating them into the crate, and then once they are trained, slowly integrating them out of the crate while leaving the door open as an option. Follow these steps to implement the crate training process correctly: Start with more social hours at first with lots of potty breaks. After the first week or so, slowly add more crate time and reduce the amount of free social hours, adding an hour or two a day for the first few weeks. The middle of the process week should be very focused on maintaining a schedule. Two hours in the crate Right outside for a potty break. At this point, you can increase the social hours and reduce the crate hours. They will catch on in time, and they will finish their training when they are ready. Remember that accidents will happen during this training, and it is important not to punish your puppy because of them. You can add the following items to make it cozy for your pup: Fuzzy blankets A small water bowl Toys Chew bones Use rubber that is good for puppy teeth and gums. Do not use a real bone that could sliver off into sharp pieces. This could be a choking hazard for canines of any age, so you need to be very careful in selecting bones. These are some comforts that will make the crate feel like a safe haven instead of a punishment. I recently wrote the guide to the best toys for poodles. I discuss crate training related topics such as boredom and separation anxiety, as well as the best toys to help curb these behaviors. You can learn more here. This will only make them fear the crate and you, making the process take significantly longer or not work at all. Make it cozy and safe. Make meal-time designated to the crate. Leave treats in the crate when they successfully hold it for a potty break. Slowly add to the amount of time they must hold it. Some go by the method of the month to hour ratio for potty breaks. For example, if your puppy is two months old, they can hold it for two hours. If your puppy is three months old, they can hold it for three hours, and so on. Develop a term you say excitedly to invite them to go back to their crate. The reason that crate training works is because a dog is a relatively hygienic animal that will not want to sit with their urine or fecal matter. Some reasons why you should crate train your poodle are: It teaches them not to poop or pee where they sleep. It helps strengthen their resolve to control their bowels and bladder. This offers you peace of mind knowing you are not leaving them to develop bad habits. It helps your dog become well-trained for travel and comfortable with future crate-required plans. It offers them a safe shelter that is all their own. It lets them know that you alone establish their schedule. It helps the dog see you as the alpha and aids in your retaining control. This avoids having an out-of-control puppy that is beyond training. It will end up being their security blanket, and if done correctly, crate-training offers them a space they can retreat in for serenity and solitude. Mistakes to Avoid When Crate Training Your Poodle There are plenty of ways to accidentally do a disservice to your dog while crate training them. This will result in them fighting you the entire time, and you risk them not properly being potty trained. You will need to take them out often to avoid them sitting in their waste. You may consider taking them out every hour, but you must take them out at least every two hours. Do not confuse crate training with locking them up all day because they will need many potty and social breaks. Keep in mind that their bladders might be larger, and they can hold it for longer, but not more than hours. You may have to reprogram their brain that they need to hold it unless they are outside. They want to be creating a relationship with you and the world. If they are not getting time to play and enjoy human interaction, your poodle can quickly become depressed or develop anxiety. This is probably the most important takeaway you should hold on to. Now that you understand the basics of crate training, you must learn the differences between each type of poodle. The poodle breed overall has won countless blue ribbons, is the national dog of France, and is known for its pedigree and class. The three classifications for poodles that are based on their size are: Toy — The smallest variation will often be less than 10 inches tall and weigh under 9 pounds. They are bred from larger poodles, so they retain the same behavioral and personality characteristics as larger poodles. Miniature — The miniature poodle is closer to the toy poodle in size and is between 11 to 15 inches tall and weighs between 10 and 20 pounds. Standard — The largest variation of poodle will be over 16 inches tall with most being around 25 to 30 inches tall and weigh between 40 and 75 pounds. They are bred for retrieving and intelligence. Selecting A Crate for Your Poodle There are tons of crates to choose from, but your primary considerations going into the crate selection will be the following: Select a crate that allows your dog to stand up, spin around, and not feel claustrophobic. You will want it a few inches taller than their height when standing straight. If there is room to designate a bathroom area in the crate, it is too large. Crates for pets will most commonly come in the following materials: Wire Plastic Fabric If you select a wire crate, your pup can see their surroundings. This allows them to look around and feel included, while a plastic crate may have walls that make them feel too confined or left out. Best Crates for Each Poodle Size It can be difficult to know what size crate will work best for your poodle. Here are my favorite crates on Amazon for each toy, miniature, and. Crate Training Your Poodle: Behavioral Problems and Solutions Your dog will sometimes cry during the early stages of their crate training. Some common behavioral issues of the poodle breed to be aware of are: Barking at all hours of the night Digging holes in the yard or your carpet Chewing on furniture or shoes Jumping the fence when let outside Stealing human food Hand chewing or biting Potty accidents Many of these behaviors are triggered by a bored poodle that is not getting enough socialization, exercise, or bonding time. Play more games with them Provide toys that are mentally stimulating, like puzzles that release treats Provide more chew toys if they are biting hands. They may be teething and need special Puppy Chew Toys Teach them more tricks and take opportunities to train them Your poodle is very intelligent and loves to be trained. Give them more brain activity and tasks to accomplish, like training, and the happier your poodle will be. Dogs like to feel a sense of purpose, just like humans. Show them more attention, and most of these bad habits will cease. Without adequate care, your poodle will become depressed, anti-social, anxious, or downright badly behaved. Check out this video to help stop your poodle from barking in her crate: Final Tips on The Crate Training Process Potty training your puppy will be a challenging but worthwhile process! This psychological training will condition them to follow your lead, have their safe-space and territory, while also communicating more clearly when they need to go outside. Take their lead in how ready they are to be free of the crate. If they cry at night, it is normal. Animals get scared of the dark, just like humans. Reduce their anxiety by making them feel less isolated. When your puppy has playtime, leave the crate door open. You may notice that they go back in willingly. The right crate connects to their instincts and should be well-embraced by the poodle breed. If you are going to commit, commit properly by avoiding punishments and making this a consequence-free period of learning for them. In Conclusion Take the crate training technique on in baby-steps. The tortoise beat the hare for a reason. Offer your dog love, affection, treats, and consistency — and they will be potty-trained in no time! Crate training should not be about leaving them in the crate all day, but more about instilling healthy habits. The crate should feel like their safe space. Find more ways to add comforts and offer them treats each time they go in their crate. Be mindful not to rush the process or force it upon them. It will happen naturally as you develop your routine with one another. I hope you found it helpful. Here are some products that I personally believe every owner should employ to help ensure the best quality of life for their dogs. But in all honesty, these are the exact products that I use and recommend to everyone, even my own family. Lemonade Pet Insurance : Lemonade Pet Insurance has enabled me to afford a very high level of veterinary care for my dog, Angus. Even after he was diagnosed with cancer a few years back. This program actually works, and at a small fraction of the cost of hiring a dog trainer! Pet Plate is the dog food subscription service I use to provide extremely healthy, pre-portioned meals for my dog. Pet Plate gives my dog Angus the highest quality nutrition at a very affordable price. BarkBox : Without a doubt, my dog enjoys Barkbox more than anything else I buy him. BarkBox delivers a customized box of themed toys, treats, and other products to your door each month. In addition, I like that a percentage of proceeds is donated to local animal shelters. I Purchase this service for my dog Angus and have saved hundreds of dollars over visiting his local vet with questions or more minor health concerns. Brent Hartman I'm Brent Hartman. I've been a dog lover my entire life and have owned many animals over the years. When my black lab Angus passed away, I was looking for another friend to share my life with. As a result of my research, I've come to love poodles and wanted to share some of what I've learned with you. Whether you're looking to adopt a poodle, or already own one, I created Poodle report to be the ultimate guide to help you find the answers you need. Recent Posts.

Share 0 Shares Learning about the three stages of your Golden Retrievers coat will help you understand each stage of growth. It starts at birth as a thin short coat, morphs into a fluffy stage between months of life, and finally your dog will display their gorgeous long feathery coat as an adult. The 3 Distinctive Stages of Coat Development for a Golden Retriever The Golden Retriever was bred to have a thick double coat that meant that they could retrieve shot birds in any weather, such as during the cooler duck season. This thick coat kept them warm in cold weather, and the water flowed off their coat keeping them warm and dry. They have a lovely personality and tend to get along with everyone, young and old alike. But it is their beautiful long golden coat that they are known and admired for. But it dries to a warm soft and fuzzy stage that will keep the puppy warm and regulate their body temperature. At months of age, your GR will transition from their soft fuzzy coat which becomes the undercoat. They will start to grow their outer coat through the undercoat at this stage. Everyone loves a cute Golden Retriever puppy; they are so adorable with their fuzzy fur that makes them look more like a cuddly bear than a dog. Combined with their drop-dead good looks and their cute demeanor and cuddly disposition, you have one little puppy that will wind you around their paw and steal your heart. In the two to three months after their birth, they will be a little fuzzy ball, and here is why. The Golden Retriever puppy is born with a short thin coat of fur which is suited to them while they adjust to life and learn how get about. Their short coat is easier for the mother dog to clean, and it enables the puppy to move about unencumbered while learning how to walk, play and feed. Although their coat will start getting thicker in the first few months, they will remain short. In these first few months of life, it is a good time to train your little Golden to enjoy being groomed as this will become part of their weekly life. Brushing them while they are young gets them into the habit of being groomed because the Golden Retriever does shed a lot of fur and brushing your dog helps to control their shedding. This stage of coat growth and development happens around months of age. It often shows first in the tail area but be aware that this can vary from dog to dog. Their coat is a double coat. The undercoat is thick and protects them from heat and cold. The dense outer coat grows from amongst the underlying puppy fluff which settles to become the undercoat. At months they will start getting their adult coat. Each Golden Retriever is different, there is no set time that each stage must happen within. Asking your breeders for information about when the parent dogs of your puppy went through their coat growth stages will give you an idea of when that will happen for your pup. This full growth stage is from about 8 months onwards, again, depending on the dog. These long, beautiful hairs start on the tail, followed by the stomach, chest, and legs within their first year. From here on, the coat of the Golden Retriever will be shed several times during the year, depending on where you live and what the climate is like. The highest level of shedding occurs in the late spring, and the late fall. Other than that, they shed modestly throughout the year. When do Golden Retrievers Tails get Fluffy? Dogs are individuals, and the time that they achieve any key steps in their growth cycle can vary depending on the dog. The tail starts to fluff out at around weeks old and is made up of two layers. First there is the outer layer of long guard hairs, then the undercoat is comprised of softer, downy hairs. Each dog is different as to when their tails achieve the beautiful Golden Retriever fluffy look. The guard hairs start first on the tail which becomes fluffy and long by the time they are six to eight months old. The Golden Retriever is a very popular breed that is a great family dog. They have a lovely nature, plenty of energy, and just love their people. Their fur can get everywhere — on your furniture, on your clothes, floating in the house, and rolling around like a tumbleweed in the garden! When you get a Golden Retriever, you must accept the shedding that comes with the dog. So why do they shed so much? It is because of their coat; they are a double coated canine, which means that they have a waterproof topcoat, but they also have a soft downy undercoat. Their coat is designed by nature to help regulate their temperature. It is normally during the changes of the seasons — particularly spring and fall, that they shed the most. During summer their coat is thinner than usual, but they start growing thicker fur for the winter. But in saying that, be aware that they shed pretty much all the year around. Regular grooming with a rake comb and pin brush during grooming helps control the thick under hair. Regular brushing removes the excess loose hair from within the coat and can cut down on the amount of hair in the home. The climate where you live is a factor in the coat stages of your Golden Retriever. If you live in a hot place, they will shed their coat more to remain cool. If you live in a cold climate your golden will shed less to protect them from the icy climate. A dog who spends a lot of their time outside will develop a thicker coat than a dog that spends a lot of time indoors. As earlier stated, the Golden Retriever seems to shed all year around. But what if it is excessive, like handfuls of hair falling out — is that normal? There are certain things that can affect the amount of fur that your Golden Retriever sheds. It may just be a growth phase that they are going through, but it could be an outside influence that is causing a change in their shedding pattern. Allergy reactions due to pollen, food, or even their grooming shampoo can be a factor. You may notice them scratching more than usual. A dog with allergies also suffers from eye or ear infections so check them regularly to ensure all is well. Parasites such as fleas, ticks, and mites can almost drive a dog mad, and you will notice your dog itching themselves and probably whining at the same time. That thick coat is an inviting place to call home for parasites, so check their coat carefully, especially after long walks in wooded areas. Stress can affect your Golden Retriever. They need to be with their owners. If your Golden Retriever is feeling left out, they may begin scratching themselves or fretting which can cause hair loss. Make sure that they are also booked in for a regular health check with your local vet. The vet put your mind at rest as to what is normal shedding and what is not. A long rake comb can really sort out the dense undercoat and pull out any loose, irritating hair while a pin brush keeps the top hairs clean and tangle-free. With a consistent routine of grooming and washing your dog, you will remove the loose hair and be able to dispose of it. Sometimes when your dog is molting shedding their hair you can grab handfuls of their hair and pull gently. Brushing daily if possible is great, otherwise, try to groom them at least three times per week. Bathing, which is important to care for the coat, needs to be done once a week, or twice a month using a suitable mild dog shampoo. This phenomenon is a natural occurrence as your Golden Retriever ages. During the puppy stage , they are more of a light golden color, but as they mature, some of the longer guard hairs darken over time. Their coat is characterized by a thick, light-colored undercoat and moderately rough darker outer coat. The climate can make a difference. A hot sunny climate where they spend a lot of time in the water can make for a lighter-colored coat. The Golden Retriever should not be shaved as it is the worst thing that you can do to your canine. If you do a complete shave, it may damage the coat and it will never grow back like before. It can also result in skin allergies and damage. The undercoat is designed to protect the dog from both hot and cold temperatures. The springtime shedding of the undercoat helps them cope with the heat. Conclusion Golden Retrievers are known for their lovely, fluffy coats and long flowing tail. Their soft golden or darker caramel colors are beautiful and new owners are attracted to their looks, good nature, and goofy, adorable antics. But like most things, there is a price to pay for their good looks, and that is that they shed a lot. But with regular grooming and brushing, a bath or two a month, and the use of low allergenic mild shampoo, you will be able to control as much of the shedding as possible. And if you ask any Golden Retriever owner, they will tell you that the shedding is a small price to pay for such an affable, glorious dog. Golden Retriever Resources and Tips. Diet Breeders Preference Many people are surprised to learn that there are NOT three types of Golden Retrievers, as you often will read on the internet. Instead, there is only one Golden Retriever breed possessing different colorings and structures. In truth, those colorings and differences are due to the preferences of breeders for specific physical structures, including coat length and thickness and color preferences. Of, if your buying your Golden Retriever from a non-registered breeder, it again depends on the lineage of its parents and grandparents. In other words, if you want to know approximately how fluffy your Golden Retriever will be, then looks at its parents. His mother was taller and lankier, with a short wavy coat. The result? Bailey is a mix. He has the size of his mother and the thickness of his father, and his coat is gold with white markings, mid-length and wavy. However, beware that even seeing the parents is no guarantee of a fluffy Golden Retriever. And that is because Golden Retrievers can have individual differences within a family litter. Just like human families can have wide variations among siblings in their eyes, hair, and physical attributes. The reason? Genetics You can take heart that almost all Golden Retriever puppies will have some degree of fluff factor. However, suppose you find your Golden Retriever puppy is not as fluffy as another. In that case, unfortunately, you have little control over that. How much or little fluff your Golden Retriever has largely depends on genetics. In other words, that is how your puppy was born. Golden Retriever puppies are individuals, and the interplay of genetics in each of those puppies can be very complex. This means there can be a wide variety of trait variations between individuals. Consider human beings, for example. You may have a child that is taller or shorter, has brown or blue eyes, and goes bald later in life. So, similarly, you may have a Golden Retriever puppy that is not as fluffy as your neighbors solely because of genetics. As well, even within a litter, you can have variations. So, while your Golden Retriever puppy might be highly fluffy, someone else selects one that is far less so. Regardless if your Golden Retriever puppy is high or low on the fluff scale, I can guarantee it will be cute and adorable they all are. And fluffiness is fleeting. It decreases as the puppy ages in adolescence and adulthood discussed next. Your puppy is special and unique in its own right. I have yet to meet a Golden Retriever that is not. Moreover, the degree of fluffiness does not necessarily guarantee that your adult Golden Retriever will be long-haired. Again, genetics does. Be mindful that the coat you see on your puppy will not be the same as the one it has as an adult, and that includes color, length, and fluffiness. Age The next factor that affects fluffiness is age. Puppies that are less than 12 weeks old are all fluffy. However, as noted in the previous section, fluffiness is fleeting. Within the first three months of age, the Golden Retriever puppy has very thin, soft goose-like fur. Golden Retrievers puppies are similar in that their coats are thinner and more fuzz-like. The fuzz-like fur, due to it being lighter, tends to stand up more and is more frizzy. So it puffs up the puppy making it look fluffy. The puppies get protection and warmth from their mother and littermates early on. However, as the Golden Retriever puppy ages and becomes more independent, its fuzzy fur thickens and lengthens. Then, it is slowly replaced by a longer coat. Bailey was a fluffy puppy. That thinner, fuzz-like coat that is consistent with a fluffy furball is most prominent within the first 12 weeks, after which it begins to lessen as the coat grows in. The coat will rapidly thicken beyond three months of age, and the fluffiness associated with a young puppy decreases. Typically, there is nothing to worry about in the first eight weeks as the mother keeps the puppies clean by licking them. A Golden Retriever puppy should not be bathed before eight weeks of age. Your puppy will should still be with the breeder within the first eight weeks of its life, and typically, there will be no baths. However, many breeders ours included will give your Golden Retriever its first bath at about eight weeks old, usually before you bring it home. Bathing removes any dirt or oils from the fur and removes any matting. The coat has more volume and lift, making the puppy look more fluffy. No different than if you have hair that is dirty, greasy, and matted down, and then wash it. Immediately after it dries, it has more volume and lifts, and it looks fluffier. One word of caution. Overbathing can remove essential oils and cause skin issues. There is no need to bathe a Golden Retriever more than every six to eight weeks. Health and Medical Issues Health or medical issues or medications can impact a Golden Retriever, including the fur. Often the coat will be thin and lack shine, and there could be excessive shedding, dandruff, or dry fur and skin. Some medical issues that can impact a Golden Retrievers coat are hormones, parasites, cancer, and problems with digestion and metabolism. Arthritis, obesity, or malnutrition can also cause issues with the fur. Skin issues such as allergies or hot spots may also impact the coat, and excessive scratching can exasperate the problem. Fur and skin issues are often a sign of an underlying health issue. If your Golden Retriever is showing signs of skin and fur issues such as excess itching, shedding, and a thin, lackluster coat, consider booking an appointment with your vet for an examination. Another cause of potential fur issues is stress and anxiety. If your Golden Retriever appears sad or depressed, it is often due to stressors. Sadness and depression can also affect appetite and desire to exercise, which in turn, can impact the fur. Diet Like a poor diet can impact our hair; the same is true for our Golden Retriever. A diet deficient in nutrients or calories can cause a malnourished dog or a dog that is too skinny , which impacts health and fur. Likewise, lacking adequate macro and micronutrients can cause the fur to be thin, look dull, be matted, and fall out. In contrast, overfeeding a Golden Retriever can cause obesity which can prevent a Golden Retriever from grooming itself properly. Furthermore, a dog that is too fat is not only more prone to health issues but has a shorter lifespan too. Watch for allergens. Often if your Golden Retriever is allergic to a specific ingredient, it will manifest in the skin and coat. Itchiness, hotspots, excess shedding, and a thin, lackluster coat could be signs of an allergen or skin issue resulting from the diet. Also, watch table feeding. Premium dog foods are designed to provide the optimum amount and balance of nutrients for your dog, something which table scraps may not provide adequately. Plus, table feeding can cause a dog to become a picky eater. A common allergen for Golden Retrievers is dairy products, including milk. How fluffy your Golden Retriever becomes is mainly dependent on those issues discussed earlier: breeder preference, genetics, and age. However, you may be wondering if there is anything you can do to make your Golden Retriever more fluffy. Keeping your dog at a healthy weight with adequate exercise along with feeding it premium dog food is important for optimum coat health, as is keeping the dog clean and brushing it regularly. As discussed earlier, a Golden Retriever puppy should be bathed no earlier than eight weeks of age. If your breeder does not give your Golden Retriever puppy a bath before taking it home, then you can proceed to provide the puppy with its first bath. In addition to making your puppy more fluffy, introducing it to regular baths early on ensures that it becomes used to being bathed. Doing so makes it much easier as the dog gets bigger. Keep it as short as possible and as positive as possible. Your puppy is in a strange house with strange people and is now separated from its mother, littermate, and home. Add in a scary bath now, and you have a stressed puppy. In fact, I might suggest waiting until week nine or ten, so your puppy can acclimate to you and your home first. While blow dryers are great for puffing up fur and accentuating the fluff factor, be mindful of the heat. If you decide to use a blow dryer, then be mindful of the temperature and the length of time you are using it. This is especially true of puppies. Puppies have smaller surface areas and do not yet possess their full coats, which offers some protection against heat. Moreover, dogs do not sweat but instead regulate heat by panting. As a result, a small puppy is less equipped to keep up with cooling if overheated. The next thing you can do to make your Golden Retriever more fluffy is to brush it regularly. Brushing will help remove loose hairs and dirt while redistributing body oil. Regular grooming practices are vital for maintaining your Golden Retriever in optimum health. Doing so will ensure a healthy dog that has an attractive coat. In addition, premium dog food coupled with proper portions and adequate exercise will ensure your dog has all the nutrients it needs while maintaining a healthy weight and good digestion. Adding supplements such as salmon oil can help produce a shiny, soft, and healthy coat and aid in healthier joints, brain, and heart. To help ensure a healthy, well-balanced Golden Retriever that is at an ideal weight, make sure your dog gets regular daily walks or runs. Finally, regular vet check-ups will ensure there are no medical issues that need addressing. Regular vet check-ups are also the perfect time to discuss any coat issues. Are Golden Retriever Puppies Fluffy? There are few cuter things than a Golden Retriever puppy. As puppies, one of the most adorable things is their fluffy, goose-like fur. So, is this trait specific to a few lucky puppies, or are all Golden Retrievers puppies fluffy? Most Golden Retriever puppies will be fluffy up until three months of age. Within the first three months, the puppy possesses fluffy, soft fur that helps regulate body temperature. After three months, the coat begins to thicken and lengthen, gradually becoming less fluffy as the dog ages. Yes, the Golden Retriever puppy is adorable with their juvenile coat being so high on the fluff factor. You wish you could keep them small and fluffy forever. But can you? As your Golden Retriever ages, it will become less and less fluffy. Before 3 months of age, the fur of a Golden Retriever puppy is similar to fuzzy goose down. However, as the Golden Retriever ages, its coat begins to grow. The coat thickens and increases in length, and the dog develops its double coat. Golden Retrievers possess a double coat consisting of a thinner and lighter inner coat that helps regulate body temperature and a lustrous golden outer coat, which is thicker and water-resistant. While the coat still might have a fluffy-ish appearance, it typically will not be the same as before month three. And it will continue to become less so over time. As an adult Golden Retriever, the dog may have more dense hair, and that fur might be longer. As a result, the dog may appear a bit more fluffy than an adult Golden Retriever with less length and thickness. Again, this is determined by genetics and breeding. For example, some Golden Retrievers have shorter, less dense coats, while others have longer coats. Bailey is only 1. Still, as an adult, a Golden Retriever with a longer, thicker coat, while looking a bit more fluffy, will not look like it did as a puppy. The hair is longer and thicker, which is heavier and lays on the body more, versus the lighter fuzzy fur that a puppy has, which has more volume and lift. So, the short answer is no; Golden Retrievers do not stay fluffy, at least not to the same degree as they are when puppies. Final Thoughts Golden Retriever puppies are pretty much all fluffy. However, there is a timer on that fluffiness, and after about the 3rd month of age, that soft, thick fuzzy fur will start to thicken and grow. So by adulthood, while most Golden Retrievers have a long, dense coat, they lose the fluffiness they had as puppies. While you can control what breeder you buy a dog from and from that, get a good idea of what it will look like , you cannot control its genetics. Need more convincing? Fluffy vs. Learn more. This breed is so famous for being a charming member of the family. His piercing brown eyes, friendly face, and striking rich coat make him insanely beautiful. When you are around him, you cannot resist the temptation of running your fingers over his fluffy coat. He will fill your life with so much joy that you never imagined possible. When choosing a puppy, you might encounter both the fluffy and non-fluffy types. Granted, the first type is the most abundant but it is not uncommon to have a non-fluffy pooch as well. Which one should you go for and why? To keep you informed, we will highlight what you should expect from both fluffy and non-fluffy Golden retriever puppies. Their coats feature soft, fluffy hair. However, as they reach three months of age, you will notice the coat taking on the appearance of long hair. This begins at the tail where a few strands of long hair will grow over the soft fluffy hair of the puppyhood stage. The feathers start at the tail then grow on the legs and stomach area. Gradually, the rest of the areas will grow flat, long locks with the new hair being longer and darker than light puppy fur. Instead of the puppy shedding his fur, the adult hair often grows on top of the fluff. Even as the adulthood hair catches on, some Goldens will still have fur variations on their skin. If you have visited a rescue or a breeding center, you have probably noticed this. Ending up with a non-fluffy goldie can be really frustrating, especially if you know that Golden retriever puppies should have fluffy coats when they are young. So what can cause a Golden retriever puppy to lack the fluff? Here are a few suggestions. Genetics Genetics plays out a lot in the making of the puppy. Coat length is a hereditary issue. To know if the appearance of the coat is a result of genetics, talk to the breeder and find out if the parents had the same coat. If one of the parents had the same coat or something close when they were little, you definitely have nothing to worry about. Some are long-haired while others are short-haired. The common short-haired variety includes field-bred golden retrievers. Bred to work in the field and hunt, this type has relatively short hair than his counterparts. By now, the hairs are preparing to shoot and so you cannot judge the future based on what you see now. Wait until he turns months of age to observe what is going on before making a conclusive judgment. Typically, a growing puppy needs a perfect balance of fats, proteins, vegetables, and fatty oils to be in top shape. The only way to rule this one out is to visit the vet. Health Issues Last but not least, a non-fluffy Golden retriever puppy may be suffering from health issues that directly impact his coat health. If your pup shows any signs of sickness including decreased appetite, restlessness, stress, anxiety, diarrhea, vomiting, or just being in bad mood for long periods of time, let him be checked. But before you do, you have to know what to expect when it comes to caring for the coat lest you get confused and overwhelmed. Ideally, you want to start grooming your ball of fluff as a puppy. The earlier you start teaching him about grooming, the easier things will be for you because the dog will get used to it early. First things first, a golden retriever should not be shaved. If you shave him, he runs a chance of freezing in winter and suffering a heat stroke during summer. To be safe, simply trim the hairs if they grow too long but really, you may not even need to trim anything. Just locate any long hairs and clip them a bit for a good look. Perhaps the only advisable thing would be to brush the coat once or twice a week to keep it neat and keep any loose hairs away from your surfaces. Brushing allows the body to release its natural oils and makes the coat shiny and cute. A slicker brush will get the job done to perfection. It has a wide surface filled with pins and will help your work through loose hair and mats. What about a Non-Fluffy Coat? Some people consider non-fluffy golden retriever puppies to be less attractive compared to their fluffy counterparts. While that may be true to a certain extent, having a non-fluffy type may be a blessing in disguise. This is because you have less hair to worry about. This means fewer grooming sessions for you as well. The best grooming tool for a non-fluffy golden retriever is the bristle brush. It is less intense and is ideal for your pup. A weekly brushing schedule should do the job. At this stage, expect the puppy to play with the bristle brush and chew it up. That is the whole process of getting him used to it. After a few sessions, he will be comfortable with grooming and will give you an easy time. Final Thoughts Wondering whether to buy a fluffy or non-fluffy golden retriever? Both options are good-looking dogs with the same incredible temperament of the breed. Caring for the coats is slightly different as well as looks but either way, you will have a great canine friend in your golden retriever. Related Posts:.

However, the first thing you need to know is that silver Shepherds are very rare, and their fur coloration is not a sign of another breed but a result of color mutation, especially of red and tan hairs changing under the influence of certain genes or alleles. You may have heard a lot about these unique dogs, but as long as some facts are true, others are absolute myths. History and Causes of Silver Color in German Shepherds The history of this Shepherd coloring dates back to , and this fur tint is considered to be the closest to the original German Shepherd. A German officer and veterinarian, Max von Stephanitz, spent about 35 years researching and breeding ideal herding dogs. Then, in , a new breed was registered. It had a wolf-like appearance, was strong and alert, and was used as a working dog for herding sheep, serving in the police and military, and guarding. According to the American Kennel Club report, it was the third most registered breed in .However, the AKC breed standards focus on rich colors , and washed-out tints that are undesirable for the show ring. Probably, it is one more reason why this coloring is so rare in GS dogs. Therefore, how can this rare and unique color appear in German Shepherds? Every set of genes has two copies. They may be similar or different from each other. If they differ, one copy dominates and results in specific physical characteristics. The other copy produces recessive traits that are not physically displayed. However, these recessive traits can appear in further generations under specific conditions. Both parents need to have a dilution recessive gene to receive a silver color. This gene called the KIT, influences the tan and red colors, making them cream or pale beige. Another dilution gene is the Agouti or A-locus. It affects black, wild sable, and tan colors and also produces a silver coat hue. Therefore, silver refers to black or grey wold-like coat colors and any other diluted GS colors. Appearance and Character of Silver German Shepherd Dogs The appearance of a pure silver or black and silver German Shepherd does not differ much from the dogs of this breed with other colors. Such pups have a long muzzle, domed forehead, long bushy tail, black nose, and erect ears. The average height of these male dogs is inches cm , and females are usually inches cm tall. An adult male weighs pounds kg , while adult girls can weigh pounds kg. The type of coat is short-medium, medium, or long. The latter is pretty rare. Because these animals are double-coated, they are heavy shedders , especially in the seasons of spring and early autumn when they prepare for temperature changes. Since silver Shepherds are a subtype of the mainstream breed, they have a build and physique fully identical to other German Shepherds. Their coloring ranges from cream to off-white with a metallic sheen. They usually have pure black spots among the silver areas. The size of the black areas depends on the color that the Agouti gene has diluted; for example, silver bi-color dogs are mostly black with minimal silver areas on saddles and blankets. It is a result of red or tan modifications. As for their temperament, these pups do not differ much from their counterparts, either. They are brave, loyal, confident, and intelligent. Like other German Shepherds, they are alert, protective, energetic, and territorial. These pets are quite independent and versatile. They are aloof to strangers and can become superb family pets if properly trained. Socialized silver Shepherds are friendly to children and other pets in the household, and they can be perfect dogs for new owners. Such dogs can work in the police, military, and search-and-rescue services. However, they bond with one person only, and it has to be taken into consideration while training to help them extend their protection drive to the entire team or household. Silver Shepherds need a lot of exercise and a good trainer who is confident and consistent and applies only positive reinforcement. Not every German Shepherd carries the Agouti gene that produces a silver coat. That makes the breeding process quite challenging and expensive. Moreover, even if both parents are the recessive gene carriers, they are not guaranteed to produce silver offspring. If you get only one silver puppy out of four in a litter or do not get any, the price of such a rare pup doggy will grow up. These dogs are not a mixed breed. They are purebred, with the same appearance, physical and behavioral patterns, and care needs as their counterparts. Though pure silver German Shepherd dogs are even rarer, most colors can get this stunning silver tint that differentiates this type of dog from other German Shepherds. Even the AKC accepts pure silver as a variation of registered colors. However, even if you register your doggy with this organization, it does not mean you can win prizes on most shows. You may wonder whether your pet needs some specific care because of its coat color. In fact, there is nothing specific, though you need to consider the characteristics and requirements for this breed. Nutrition is an important part of care, and feeding your doggy with high-quality kibble, a mixed diet, or a raw handmade diet rich in protein, fat, and useful carbs, is a must to preserve the shine of its fascinating silver coat. However, extensive brushing is recommended twice weekly, and you can do it even daily in shedding seasons. Your pet will need a medium-to-high amount of exercise. Walking with your dog twice a day for at least 45 minutes per session will do a lot of good. As well, your doggy will need training and socializing. These pups are easy to train, and you can teach them a lot of commands. The lifespan of a silver Shepherd is, on average, years. Vaccination is also very important when you take a silver puppy home. Develop a schedule with your vet and accurately follow it. Despite any misbeliefs, the coat color does not influence the overall health of silver Shepherds. They can suffer from common health problems among all other dogs of this breed. You can prevent or manage many of these conditions if you provide your pet with proper care. It is not true. However, some animals can be more aloof than others, while some individual dogs can be friendlier or more aggressive. Like all other German Shepherds, they need proper training and socialization. In addition, they do not like staying alone for a long time. They can get bored and destructive if you do not play or exercise with them. Try to include more problem-solving puzzles in the everyday training routine, and you will get a perfect pet and companion. Even the rarest blue-silver German Shepherd dogs can have the same issues as their red, tan, sable, or black counterparts. One more thing that is usually misunderstood about silver Shepherd breeding is that this color is possible only from two silver parents. In fact, any dog that has a recessive silver coloration gene can produce silver offspring. However, knowing beforehand how many puppies in the litter can be silver is impossible. That leads to breeding difficulties and the rarity of the silver Shepherds. You may wonder why it is so cheap if the dog is immensely rare. The matter is that these dogs are not accepted at the conformation shows. You can register your pup with the AKC, but the chances it will be successful in the show ring are minimal. So, breeding this tint in dogs is not popular among professionals, which accounts for a price reduction. Is a silver German Shepherd rare? Yes, this color is very rare among German Shepherds. Only the two dogs with a dilution recessive gene can produce the puppies with this tint. They do not need to be silver themselves. They can only be carriers of it. On the contrary, you never have a guarantee that a silver Shepherd will necessarily produce any silver offspring if its mate does not have that recessive gene. The color can even display in the second or third generation. Final Thoughts If you want to adopt a silver GSD and make it a part of your family and household, you need to know more about these beautiful animals. They are very intelligent, courageous, loyal, passionate, and energetic. They become superb guards and trustworthy companions. However, you have to train your dog properly to teach it to do commands and be more aloof and confident while communicating with strangers and other animals. Such pups look truly majestic, especially black and silver German Shepherd dogs. They resemble some fantastic creatures, sometimes rather scary and intimidating. However, they are very kind and caring if exercised and trained properly. You have to be ready to provide your new pet with much time and attention to avoid the development of certain behavioral problems and enjoy your time with your stunning pet. David W. I admire German Shepherds. They are magnificent dogs! I have been dealing with dogs, namely German Shepherds, throughout my life. I have been working part-time as a dog trainer and instructor for about 5 years, dealing mainly with German Shepherds. So I know a bit about these animals. Therefore, I decided to share my knowledge and experience about this fantastic breed. If you need help with advice and care tips or want to know more about German Shepherd dogs, welcome to this blog. Lifespan Sociability The Silver German Shepherd is a real spectacle—and among the rarest of all shepherd colors. Because of its rarity, you may have trouble finding a breeder near you. But always do a local search—and be prepared for the cost associated with the color. Also, they may have you sign a puppy contract stating that you will return the pup if you are ever unable to care for them. Finding a Silver Sable Shepherd at a shelter is unlikely, but still possible. If you do, you will likely have to go through a rigorous application and screening process. If you purchase a Silver Sable Shepherd this way, you can expect them to come with all applicable health care, including spay or neutering, vaccinations, and microchipping. Silver coloration in Shepherds is caused by genetic dilution. The silver color of this particular German Shepherd is the result of a recessive gene in the bloodline. Just because there might be a silver puppy in a litter does not mean that they all will share the trait. Silver Sable Shepherds are incredibly rare. You might have some real trouble locating a Silver Sable German Shepherd. When you do, you want to secure the puppy as quickly as possible—as there is high demand for them. Even if the brothers and sisters of the litter do not share the color, this can make the particular puppy cost more than the others. The ultimate cost is up to the breeder to ensure the quality of the animal. Silver Sable Shepherds are stubborn. Because the Silver Sable German Shepherd is so remarkably intelligent, they tend to have a stubborn streak. For inexperienced owners, their energy levels and intelligence can be intimidating, making training difficult. Silver Sable Shepherds are incredibly family-oriented. Like any other German Shepherd, the silver sables are intensely loyal to the members of its family. Silver Sable Shepherds are perfect for a wide variety of work-related tasks. Because of their sharpness, they do well and work-related tasks on police forces and other special duties. It truly is remarkable what these animals are capable of. Conclusion If a Silver Sable German Shepherd sounds like a perfect fit for your home life, you can start looking at breeders in your local area. If you have your heart set on this rare coloration of an excellent dog breed, we wish you the best of luck in your search. Featured Image Credit: J. Romanova, Shutterstock Contents. In , its name was changed back to German Shepherd. This correlates with anti-German sentiments that lasted throughout the war. The ancestral origin of the silver German Shepherd is as the name suggests Germany, where General Max von Stephanitz spent 35 years of his life researching and breeding dogs. In this process, he intended to develop the ideal herding dog and cross-bred different species because trying to get a better dog by breeding the same bloodline would be ineffective. The different types of German Shepherds available today come from him. The breed ranked as the third most registered breed in by the American Kennel Club, and they remain popular all around the globe. Although silver German Shepherds are a subset of the mainstream GSDs, they have precisely the same build and physique. Their breeding history is also no different than other German Shepherd Dogs. They are a relatively modern breed, with their origin dating back to .Silver GSDs have a wolf-like appearance and were originally working dogs developed for herding sheep. But because of their friendly nature, intelligence, strength, obedience, and trainability, they are now bred worldwide for other types of work such as search and rescue, police, military roles, disability assistance, and even in acting roles. Its appearance makes it stand out from other GSD dogs. Silver GSD Rarity, Cost, Look World of Dogz German Shepherds officially come in a wide range of colors , including black , black and cream, black and red, black and silver, black and tan, bicolor, blue , grey, liver, sable , and white. Blue, grey, white, liver, and silver German Shepherds within this range are considered unique and are pretty rare as well. Washed-out colors are considered undesirable because they are seen as faults, and white is disqualified from the show ring. Sorry to disappoint some — but silver German Shepherds are not always gray and glimmering. So, what does a silver GSD look like? Silver German Shepherds have an off-tan coloration. Silver color can range from a cream to an off-white color but comes in a metallic sheen in most cases. Since silver is a modification of reds and tans or pheomelanin pigmentation, they usually have black areas amongst the silver portions. Silver bi-color dogs are also predominantly black with minimum silver points and extended saddles and blankets similar to their tan counterparts. Scientists also believe their unusual coloration results from a modifier on red or tan hair. They are also known as silver sable German Shepherds. Like all Alsatians, they have a distinctive head, domed forehead, and triangular pointy ears that stand open at the front but are often pulled during movement. Silver German Shepherds are large dogs with a moderately long body length to height ratio. Males weigh lbs and are about inches tall. Females weigh lbs and will be inches tall. There is no standard weight range set by the American Kennel Club official breed standard. Watch This Gorgeous Silver German Shepherd Having Fun… Silver German Shepherd These dogs usually have a long muzzle, a short-medium to medium dense double coat, a soft and long plush tail reaching the hock, and a long neck that raises when excited and lowered when moving at a fast pace. Silver GSDs possess numerous physical qualities matching standard German Shepherds and are thus not different in build. Their silver color is simply a variation that plays no part in determining their temperament. No German Shepherd variation possesses the G series Greying gene. So, where does the silver color come from then, genetically? In German Shepherd coat color genetics , although clear scientific and genetic evidence explaining the silver coat color is not available, scientists have found out that they come from the A-series or the Agouti series. This same series also produces the sable German Shepherd and contains at least one Agouti allele not paired with a dominant sable allele. The agouti becomes quite distinctive when combined with red hair dilution, which results in the red hairs becoming cream or greyish. Studies clearly show that the silver coat color of these breeds is merely a genetic phenomenon and does not affect their temperament. However, keep in mind that they are not friendly to every stranger they meet and need adequate socialization and training. They are good with children and make excellent family dogs, but you need to set specific boundaries for them, just like any other breed. They often take on a guardian role for those within their family, owing to their history of herding sheep. Silver German Shepherds do not like staying alone for long periods and can become destructive if unexercised and boredom sets in. You can curb their behavior by giving them essential mental and physical exercise by including various activities, training, and problem-solving puzzles in their routine. This ensures that they drain their excess energy by channeling it into constructive and exciting activities. Does Silver Colour Affect Health? Coat color affects the health of some breeds, but that is not the case for silver German Shepherds. Their glorious color has no bearing on their health. They are, however, prone to certain health conditions, but that has nothing to do with their coloration. Their health correlates with that of other German Shepherd types. Hip and elbow dysplasia are some of the most common health-related complications in this breed. Instead of looking for a relationship between health and coat color, one should look at the health condition of parent dogs. Parents with high scores for hips and elbows should reduce the chances of puppies developing these conditions. By then, puppies with dysplasia risk are already bred and sold. Silver German Shepherds are a relatively healthy breed. However, like most breeds, they are prone to some conditions. These are: OCD Osteochondritis dissecans abnormal cartilage growth. Within this range, black and silver German Shepherds are the most unusual options. Silver-grey German Shepherds and silver sable German Shepherds are less common. Washed out colors like blue German Shepherd and livers are considered a serious fault. The white coat is pretty undesirable because it resembles an albino German Shepherd , and it will disqualify you from the show ring. Genes or alleles are responsible for coat colors and patterns in all dogs, not only the silver German Shepherd. Dog experts have narrowed color genes in dogs to a limited number. Scientists have assigned a name or a set of letters to each locus. Every set of genes has two copies. These copies can be identical or different. If the two copies are different, then one will usually dominate the other. Since each parent randomly passes on one of their two gene copies to each puppy, recessive traits can even make appearances in later generations. For example, a black and tan gene is dominant over a solid black gene. Two black and tan parents could carry a copy of the solid black gene, but they will only express the dominant pattern. Only if two copies of recessive genes are present will the recessive gene show up in a form of coat color. Merle is a marbling of black and white, often appearing in Heelers, Dachshunds, and Aussies. If the gene fails to turn on, or if it only has a partial effect, then dogs will be lightly colored or have a washed-out appearance. The recessive intensity suppression gene is similar to the dilution gene on the black pigment. The dilution gene affects black hair or eumelanin as well as red hair, but this makes them look muddy rather than pale. The dilution gene is a recessive one. Dog experts also refer to blue GSD as steel blue or mouse grey. Silver will show up as cream or pale beige where the tan or red colorations would be. As for the silver dogs, a separate gene or modifier suppresses red pigment in white Shepherds. White dogs with reddish fur around their ears and across their backs support the action of another gene. These dogs are chocolate with no effect on tan markings. Photo from: silversun. Animal Genetics refers to the A locus, which encompasses four major alleles. German Shepherd dogs can express any of the four alleles, which is not a common trait among dogs. Even three of the genes allow the expression of the silver color. Sable takes numerous forms, depending on the breed. If a German Shepherd is Ay, it will mostly be a shaded sable with black and red colors meshing together. For example, Collies have Irish spotting and sable where breeders need to select for a few non-black bands in the air. When it comes to German Shepherds, the cream instead of the red banding will produce a silver dog. They usually have less red and more grey and black than shaded sables. While sables can be silver, patterned sables remind us of an unorganized saddle or blanket, and could demonstrate incomplete dominance of the while sable gene over the tan-pointed gene. Silver German Shepherds have a black and tan base color, or even wild sable. The intensity of the gene likely shows incomplete dominance. The relationship between the genes and their effect on color intensity is yet to be discovered. For example, if you have two black dogs and red European show dogs, the male is not as rich in color as the female. With thick variety, tan markings are minimal at points of the eyes, the shoulders, and minimal streaks on the toes. Some German Shepherds have markings similar to Rottweilers, with tan or silver on the front of the chest and extending up the inside of the hind legs. Geneticists may distinguish German Shepherds with extended blankets versus bicolor dogs. Blanketed dogs have the rally gene present. Dog experts have discovered a separate gene; the one they call the rally gene, which is responsible for the saddle pattern in black and tan dogs like the German Shepherd and the Lakeland Terrier. Creeping tan affects silver the same way as it would affect brown or red. Some German Shepherds with tan points end up with little brown or silver creeping, and they seem like they have extended blankets. Others have very small saddles. The E locus may affect the amount of black masking on the body. Many coat variations in German Shepherds act on the dark pigment, or eumelanin. You can describe dilutions and other modifications just as you would describe a black and tan dog. Blue dogs can be blue and tan, solid blue, and blue bicolor. Sable dogs can be blue, where dilution affects the black banding. The liver acts exactly like the blue, but chocolate brown or lighter brown acts to replace areas of black. Silver is a modification of reds and tans, or pheomelanin pigmentation leaving dogs black and silver. Silver bi-colors are predominantly black with minimal silver points. Silver and black dogs can have extended saddles and blankets, just like their tan counterparts. Solid grey dogs have separate genes at work, which are blue, not silver. A rare individual may show minimal black markings and appear solid grey. You can spot the difference between cream and silver versus blue or Isabella German Shepherds by looking at their eyes. Silver dogs have no disruption or eumelanin, and will have dark-colored eyes. Blue and Isabella Shepherds have light-colored eyes. They can completely access conformation exhibitions and other dog shows. However, since silver is a dilute color, the judges will consider this a fault. As an unwritten rule, judges always prefer bright and rich colors encouraged by the German Shepherd breed standard. Silver is still an accepted color variation of the GSD. Silver can infiltrate sable, but the AKC will classify those dogs as sable. Even though the name, silver sable, is quite fancy, the registries will refer to them as black and silver dogs. Black and silver pups are very different from black and tan pups, but their difference from black and cream is much more subjective. Black and silver dogs may approach white with less of the reddish or yellowish tones that cream-colored German Shepherds have. Black and silver Shepherds are 22 to 26 inches tall, and weigh around 50 to pounds. When it comes to a male vs female silver German Shepherd , you can notice the obvious difference in bone substance and muscular development. Females are usually thinner. Silver German Shepherds, like all Alsatians, have a distinctive head with erect ears and a domed forehead. White Shepherds usually have much less of a stop. All German Shepherds, no matter their color, have a moderately long body-length-t— height ratio, a short to medium dense double coat, and a long and soft tail. Just like all the other GSDs, silver Shepherds are usually aloof with strangers, and use inherent discretion to detect possible threats. Many silver German Shepherds are working dogs in police forces. They help with search and rescue actions, and serve the military forces. As family dogs, German Shepherds are extremely loyal and affectionate. Just like any other German Shepherd, the liver Shepherd is an intelligent dog with strong guarding instincts. They need a strict trainer who will carry out commands and use positive reinforcement consistently. They can suffer from the same disease other GSDs suffer from. Are they healthy dogs? Strong, rich colors are generally preferred in this working bred dog. This may be why silver grey dogs are less common. Washed out colors, including blues and livers, are considered a serious fault. The white coat color is undesirable within the official description, and even leads to disqualification from the show ring. Where Do They Come From? The black and silver German Shepherd is essentially the same as any other color of German Shepherd Dog. The history of the German Shepherd Dog, of course, can be traced back to Germany. Cavalry Officer Max von Stephanitz decided he wanted to breed the ideal herding dog. Von Stephanitz spent 35 years dedicating his life to improving the breed. Expanding from its pastoral herding roots to showing its utility as a service dog and in police and military canine units worldwide. The Genetics of the Silver German Shepherd Coat color genetics are complex, with the exact genes responsible for silver coloration yet to be fully identified. Within the German Shepherd breed, the gene for sable is dominant over all other colors and patterns. The first registered German Shepherd Dog was sable in color. While you may see a working silver sable Shepherd, that would be a very unusual color combination. Different colors Bear in mind as well that the final color of a puppy will only be clear once the outer coat has fully developed. This means that a relatively dark coated puppy could develop into a mature black and silver German Shepherd Dog. They are large dogs, weighing between 50 — 90 pounds and standing between 22 — 26 inches tall. And have a muscular, strong body, with pointed ears and a dense double coat. You may have seen parent dogs advertised as black saddle silver German Shepherds, but what does that actually mean? Any German Shepherd Dog with silver coloration is less likely to have a silverback German Shepherd pattern. Grooming The double coat of the German Shepherd does require brushing every few days to remove loose hairs. They will also shed twice a year, leaving a significant amount of hair behind! Color vs Temperament There is no link between the gene for silver fur and the typical temperament traits of the dog. German Shepherds have a reputation for being fiercely intelligent, intensely loyal, and enthusiastic about work or exercise. This is a brave and courageous breed, as well as being more aloof than some others. They are good around children they know, and often take on a guardian role for those within their own family. Training and Activity All German Shepherds are intelligent dogs, regardless of their coat patterns. Their high level of intelligence means they are a joy to train, and enjoy positive, reward-based training methods. These are active dogs, and require regular daily exercise. Mental stimulation is just as important as physical exercise for German Shepherds. Be sure to challenge yours with activities such as agility, or learning tricks, as a way to keep both their mind and body stimulated. Unfortunately, all German Shepherds can be prone to a range of health conditions. Hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia are both common in the breed. Parent dogs should have been given a score for their hips and elbows. By selecting parent dogs with high scores, you can reduce the chances of your puppy developing these conditions. This is the result of abnormal cartilage growth. Other health conditions that can affect this breed include: Degenerative myelopathy. How does silver relate to black and tan? Black and tan German Shepherds come in three varieties. Tan with a black extended blanket Black and tan bicolor — Tan markings are minimal at points of eyes, at the shoulders, and minimal streaks on the toes. Some dogs have markings more like Rottweilers, with tan or silver on the front of the chest and extending up the insides of the hind legs. Genetic testing may distinguish Shepherds with extended blankets versus bicolor dogs. Blanketed dogs have the RALY gene present. Experts discovered a separate gene, one they call RALY, that is responsible for the saddle pattern in black and tan dogs like the German Shepherd and Lakeland Terrier. Creeping tan affects silver the same as it would brown or red. Some tan-pointed dogs end up with little brown or silver creeping and thus have extended blankets. Others have a very small saddle. Since many of the coat variations in German Shepherds act on the dark pigment or eumelanin, you will describe dilutions and other modifications just as you would a black and tan German Shepherd. Therefore, blue dogs can be blue and tan, solid blue, and blue bicolor. Sable dogs can also be blue, where dilution affects the black banding. The liver acts exactly the same as blue, whereby chocolate brown or lighter browns replace areas of black. Silver is a modification of reds and tans or phaeomelanin pigmentation, so dogs are black and silver. Silver bi-colors are predominantly black with minimal points of silver. Silver and black dogs can have extended saddles and blankets, just like their tan counterparts. Just as there are not fawn German Shepherds, silver does not usually present as a solid color. Solid gray dogs have a separate gene at work and are blue, not silver. A rare individual may show minimal black markings and may appear solid gray. If you look closely at these dogs, you will see the faint hint of a saddle or black banding or ticking of a sable or agouti German Shepherd. You can distinguish cream and silver versus blue or Isabella dogs by looking at their eyes. Silver dogs have no disruption of eumelanin and will have dark eyes. Blue and Isabella Shepherds, on the other hand, have light-colored eyes. Can you register and show a silver German Shepherd? You register silver dogs with the AKC as black and silver dogs. They have full access to all conformation exhibitions and other shows that the American Kennel Club offers. However, silver is a dilute color, and judges penalize it as a fault. Even without penalties, judges consistently show a preference for bright and rich colors encouraged by the breed standard. Silver is an accepted color variation of the German Shepherd Dog. Silver can infiltrate sable, but the AKC simply classifies those dogs as sable. They do not distinguish the various shades of sable or the presence of brown versus pale tans or creams. A fancier may use the term silver sable. But throughout the registries and show circuits, silver mostly refers to the black and silver dog. However, the AKC does differentiate black and silver from black and cream, which may be difficult for most people to do. In the end, black and silver are quite different from black and tan, but its distinction from black and cream is much more subjective. Black and silver dogs may more closely approach white with less of the reddish or yellowish hue that cream-colored Shepherds have. How do silver German Shepherds differ from the breed standard? Black and silver Shepherds are 22 to 26 inches tall and weigh 50 to pounds. Females should be somewhat finer in their overall impression. Silver Shepherds, like all Alsatians, have a distinctive head with upright ears and a domed forehead. White Shepherds often have much less of a stop. Otherwise, all colors of Shepherds have a moderately long body length to height ratio, a short to medium dense double coat, and a long, plush tail. Silver Shepherds are usually aloof with strangers, using inherent discretion and degree of socialization to detect threats. They should be polite, only attacking when they have exhausted all other means of intimidation. A silver German Shepherd is rare. Silver shepherd work in the police force, search and rescue, and the military, where the emphasis on silver German Shepherd appearance is not a factor. As family dogs , German Shepherds are loyal and affectionate. They have a tendency to bond with one person, although they extend their protection to the entire household. Persistent work will help German Shepherds bond with multiple family members and handlers. Like any German Shepherd, silver Shepherds are intelligent and bold with excellent guarding instincts. They require a trainer who can carry out commands and positive reinforcement consistently and confidently. German Shepherds may challenge an individual who shows uncertainty or otherwise fails to gain their respect. They do not have any more health challenges than Shepherds of other colors. Epilepsy — Unexplained seizures.

Yorkshire Terriers Shih Tzus Congenital hydrocephalus may also result from a brain hemorrhage in a newborn after difficult labor, exposure to certain drugs during pregnancy, or prenatal infection. Acquired hydrocephalus may appear due to a Vitamin A deficiency, parainfluenza virus, intracranial inflammatory disease, swelling in the brain, or other infection. However, the most common cause of acquired hydrocephalus in dogs is brain tumors. The goal is to reduce the inflammation or the production of cerebrospinal fluid. Usually, vets prescribe corticosteroids this purpose. Sometimes, they may also prescribe anti-seizure drugs and other medications to treat the symptoms. However, in some cases, surgery is the best option for treatment. The procedure involves placing a shunt that redirects cerebrospinal fluid away from the brain and into the abdominal cavity where it can then be easily reabsorbed by the body. This surgery requires a brain surgeon and is usually expensive, so many dogs never receive it and are euthanized, instead. Vets generally treat cases of acquired hydrocephalus by focusing on the underlying causes. They may use medication, surgery, or radiation and chemotherapy in cases of tumors. When treatment begins early, it can prevent brain damage, and dogs can mostly make a full recovery. Have you ever cared for a dog with hydrocephalus? Did your vet treat the condition? Then let us know in the comments below. Are certain breeds more likely to develop hydrocephalus? Small, miniature, and toy breeds seem to be more affected. Hydrocephalus Puppy: low and back set ears, bulging eyes, large domed head How is hydrocephalus diagnosed? In young puppies, a large fontanel and clinical signs consistent with hydrocephalus are usually all that are needed to diagnose congenital hydrocephalus. Including bulging eyes and low, back set ears. Ultrasound evaluations through the fontanel can reveal dilated or enlarged brain ventricles open areas in each half of the brain. Brain scans using computed tomography CT or magnetic resonance imaging MRI can also be used to diagnose hydrocephalus. Electroencephalography EEG , which involves connecting electrical sensors onto the head in multiple locations, may also be used to aid in diagnosing hydrocephalus. Hydrocephalus Dog Scan How is hydrocephalus treated? In the acute or early phases of hydrocephalus, treatment is directed toward reducing CSF production and inflammation by using corticosteroids steroids, such as cortisone or prednisone. In more severe or chronic cases, anti-seizure medications will be needed, and drugs may benefit affected dogs. Shunt for Hydrocephalus Surgery to place a tube that runs from the open spaces in the brain to the abdomen can be performed at some veterinary teaching or specialty hospitals. Considerable risks and potential complications are associated with this procedure, so be sure to thoroughly discuss the benefits and risks of shunts with your veterinarian. For acquired hydrocephalus, therapy is focused on treating the underlying cause and may range from medications to surgery to radiation therapy. Should dogs with congenital hydrocephalus be bred? Absolutely not. Because congenital hydrocephalus is a birth defect. What is the prognosis for dogs with hydrocephalus? In general, hydrocephalus in dogs is a serious, often life-threatening, condition. The forecasted outcome for hydrocephalus depends on its duration and severity. Puppies with congenital hydrocephalus may do well following shunt placement if severe brain damage has not occurred. Our experience with hydrocephalus is not a pleasant one. The two pups we have worked with failed to thrive and it was recommended by our vet to move forward with humane euthanasia. Dogs with acquired hydrocephalus have a poorer prognosis due to the likelihood of an underlying tumor or infection such as encephalitis inflammation of the brain. How common is hydrocephalus in dogs? Our veterinarian once told me years ago that this defect is to be expected 1 out of every puppies produced in all breeds with large domed heads examples above. I have experienced this defect twice now. One was in one of my own litters and the other was in a litter I was whelping for someone else. Prior to his loss, he has only pooped maybe 5 times during those 5 weeks. We tried enemas and warm water baths. We were sucking his nose every 30 minutes with an electric nasal aspirator. We tried steam to clear the airways and nebulizer treatments. He was also on antibiotics and had been given subcutaneous fluid treatment as well as cupping tapping the sides of the chest to break up phlegm and release fluid in lungs. The other puppy we worked with, was euthanized at 3 weeks of age. He had a massive open fontanel I could feel his brain and was unable to walk or nurse. He frequently circled and did not tolerate feedings well at all. Canine Open Fontanel Images What are open fontanels? They can be normal in young puppies, especially small breeds, but they typically close or harden by weeks of age. In some breeds, such as Chihuahuas and Miniature Dachshunds, it is not uncommon for open fontanelles to persist beyond 12 weeks of age. Open fontanelles are a normal finding in very young puppies. As normal puppies mature, the growth plates in their skull fuse together and the soft spots known as open fontanelles gradually reduce in size until they no longer exist. Persistent open fontanelles, however, are a common genetic condition that is seen in some small dog breeds. In these dogs, persistent open fontanelles are caused by genetic abnormalities in normal developmental skull closure. The growth plates in these dogs simply fail to fuse in a normal manner, leaving a persistent soft spot in the skull. In some cases, open fontanelles may be caused by an underlying brain condition, such as hydrocephalus. Cerebrospinal fluid CSF accumulates within the brain, causing the brain to swell. This swelling places pressure on the skull, which can contribute to open fontanelles, a dome-shaped skull, and other abnormalities. Fortunately, most cases of open fontanelles are genetic and are not associated with hydrocephalus. Conclusion These issues and whelping in general are not for the faint of heart. Im thankful to have given them the best chance at life I could. There will be times when nature has intended for a pup to not make it, but because of your love and care, that pup may live much longer than expected or even come back to live a completely normal life. Consider purchasing one of our made to order incubators! It maintains heat with attachment holes for nebulizers, oxygen concentrator, or whatever else you may need humidifier! Oxygen is a great tool for weak and failing puppies, boosting the immune system, click the link to learn more about how oxygen benefits newborn puppies. Check out all of our other blogs! Dont forget to subscribe and follow socials! Hydrocephalus in french bulldog puppies discussion.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Premium breeder of Australian Labradoodle puppies Authentic, throughly health tested, and family raised Australian Labradoodles in Virginia Beach Health Tested We extensively test our parents through Paw Prints Genetics for a variety of genetic health conditions. In addition, eye screening is completed every 18 months, and we obtain hip, elbow, and patella ratings though the OFA. Echocardiograms are also performed on our parents to ensure healthy hearts. This will ensure your puppy has the coat qualities, temperament, and longevity Australian Labradoodles are known for. Holistic Approach We employ a holistic approach to the healthcare and nutrition of our mom and dad dogs to ensure optimal health while breeding. We feed a commercially prepared raw diet, minimally vaccinate, and omit any oral chemical pesticides. We also feed a highly nutritious raw diet to puppies as they transition from mothers milk to solids. We are a small in home breeder of Australian Labradoodles. Our mission is to raise allergy friendly and highly intelligent puppies which have the healthiest parents and sweetest temperaments who will then become your lifelong companions. Mini Labradoodle vs Mini Sheepadoodle Comparison Two dog breeds, one purpose: to make your life a joy-filled journey powered by strong bonds, friendship, and unconditional love. Meet the Mini Labradoodle and the Mini Sheepadoodle. Two very adorable and friendly dogs with upbeat personalities, the Mini Labradoodle and Mini Sheepadoodle make the perfect addition to any lucky family. Your way of life, hobbies, and work schedule are all important factors that can help determine which of the two dog breeds is a good fit for your lifestyle.Welcoming a new puppy into your home is an exciting time filled with joy, cuddles, and a few inevitable challenges. One of the most common questions new puppy owners ask is, "When can puppies go outside? They are fun, easygoing, and gentle. Mini Labradoodles enjoy canine games like chase, fetch, and Frisbee, and thrive on cuddles and love. Energetic, friendly, and full of life, the Mini Labradoodles make wonderful jogging and hiking companions. They are known to enjoy a good swim, a long stroll, and are very fond of adventures. The Mini Labradoodle puppies are happy, energetic, and bright bundles of joy. They are loving and eager to please, love to play and cuddle, and are excellent training students. A cross between Labrador Retrievers and Mini or Toy Poodles, the Mini Labradoodle may take after one parent breed or the other in appearance or they may have their own unique look with an added bonus of a hypoallergenic coat. We raise high-quality Mini Labradoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini labradoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high-quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! F1B Mini Labradoodle Puppies are a second-generation cross or hybrid. The father is a Mini Poodle and the mother is an F1 Labradoodle. The F1B Minature Labradoodles usually have soft hair that is usually wavy or curly. Thes puppies are considered semi-hypoallergenic since they shed minimally. These puppies can be a good fit if a person that has mild pet allergies. Once F1B Mini Labradoodles reach 6 months old they require to be groomed once every 8 weeks or so to keep their fur healthy and to stop matting. Adult F1B Mini labradoodle dogs range in size from 14 inches in height and pounds in weight. The average life span is typically years of age. The F1BB puppies usually have curlier coats and will be totally hypoallergenic. Once the F1BB pup is 6 months they will need regular grooming every 6 to 8 weeks. F1BB Puppies are usually slightly smaller than F1B puppies and range from 12 inches in height and pounds in weight. Mini Labradoodles are known for their intelligence and the ability to be trained very easily. They make amazing family pets and love to participate in family activities like swimming, hiking, camping or just playing tag in the yard. This breed is also a good choice for people who live in apartments as long as they get at least minutes of exercise a day. So if you live near Virginia Beach Virginia and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Labradoodle puppy that can be delivered to you then check out our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Labradoodle pups that have been adopted.

Advertisement - Continue Reading Below Peanut Butter and Chicken Dog Treats One Dish Kitchen If you have some extra bananas in your pantry, use the last of them for these dog treats, which combine chicken broth, bananas, eggs, peanut butter, and other simple ingredients you probably already have handy. Help them mellow out with these all-natural homemade biscuits. Filled with lavender or chamomile, your canine will go from running laps around the kitchen to laying on your lap in no time. Corinne Sullivan Editor Corinne Sullivan is an Editor at Cosmopolitan, where she covers a variety of beats, including lifestyle, entertainment, relationships, shopping, and more. She is also the author of the novel Indecent. Olivia Muenter Olivia Muenter is a freelance writer and former fashion and beauty editor who writes about fashion, beauty, lifestyle, relationships, travel, home decor, and more for Woman's Day and beyond. When she's not reading or talking about reading on Bad on Paper, the bookish podcast she co-hosts , you can find Olivia working on her first novel, curating the perfect playlist, or shopping online. Watch Next. The 6 Best Types of Toys for a Poodle Overview If you think of dog toys as needing to serve as tools to meet a Poodle's needs, you may be surprised at how amazingly helpful they can be. The right toys can help a great deal with everything from teething woes, to negative behavior associated with boredom.In addition, toys can serve as a method of creating a closer bond with your Poodle, encourage activity in an otherwise sedentary dog, and even boost a Poodle's brain power. Here we will take a look at the 6 types of toys every Poodle should have to meet a wide variety of canine needs. Teething begins by 3 to 4 months old and lasts until the 7 to 8 month mark. During this time, there are incredible amounts of itching and most puppies feel some level of discomfort. This causes an overwhelming need to chew to soothe those teething woes. For these reasons, one of the best things that you can do is find the right toys for your teething Poodle puppy. Qualities of effective teething toys: The oral sensations that a puppy feels can move from moment to moment. Discomfort waxes and wanes. And itching can come in waves. So, toys need to be very versatile. The best toys will have: A variety of surface textures. Cloth, rope, and hard rubber should be available to meet chewing urges at any one particular time. Rope toys are especially helpful, as the twisted strands are good 'scratchers'. Small nubs. This is of particular importance; tiny nubs work to massage gums which helps the pup feel better. A puppy needs to be able to manipulate the toy into different parts of his mouth. Proper sizing. This is most relevant to toy Poodles, since many dog teething toys are sized too big for a tiny toy's mouth. If a Poodle puppy cannot instantly find relief, he may move onto something else.Recommended teething toys: Below are our 1 most recommended toys for Poodle pups that are in the throes of teething. The first 3 are for toy Poodles, though larger options can be found for miniatures and standards. The Nylabone is just one example of great teething chews that are flavored to entice a puppy to mouth them and come in a wide range of sizes, to accommodate all Poodle varieties. If you do not see the images, try a refresh. On mobile, you may need to turn the screen horizontal to see all 4. And if this describes your Poodle, no doubt you have had a hard time finding the right toys that will stand up to aggressive chewing. A dog's urge to chew is not limited to toys; with this type of drive, nothing is off limits. If a Poodle is not happy with his toys, one of two things will happen: 1 the dog will move on to other objects in the house, which is not only destructive but also unsafe or 2 the dog will become irritable and stressed as he's unable to satisfy his urges. Qualities of the best toys for strong chewers: To meet your Poodle's needs, the goal will be to provide fun chew toys that are specifically designed to handle aggressive chewers. While no toy is literally indestructible, some come very close. The toy will need to: Be able to stand up to high bite force. Be safe - A great feature to look for is a color indicator that the toy has been chewed down too far. Some toys are guaranteed, meaning that if a color starts to show, you'll get a free replacement. Fun - If it does not have the right texture and pliability to feel good in a Poodle's mouth, it'll be of no use. Recommended toys for Poodles that are super aggressive chewers: For this, both Kongs and Doughnuts are the two best options, with Kongs being the best for toy Poodles images are below. Kongs are great because they come in a wide range of sizes that will be appropriate for toys, minis, and standards. These are color coded, with pink and blue for puppies, red for 'normal' adult chewers, and black is reserved for the strongest chewers. In other words, a puppy would never be able to bite down on a black Kong dog toy and an aggressive chewer could tear up a pink one. The 'classic' Kong is designed to be filled with treats or kibble, which draws a dog to it and encourages him to stay focused. If your Poodle likes to chew, but has not shown a history of shredding toys to bits, you may find that the Kong 'minimally stuffed' chew toys are well received. These are also great because they come in all sizes from small to large. Goughnuts are colored coded as well, with yellow, orange, and green for strong chewers PSI and black reserved for professional grinders at a whopping PSI. What is great about these is that they are guaranteed. Each has red in the middle. If you see even a tiny spot of red, you may return the toy for just the cost of shipping out a new one. There are 3 sizes as well; but these will be a bit too large for most toy Poodles. Toys are shown below. And in this sense, thinking of toys as 'stay busy' tools can make a huge difference in your Poodle's happiness level. When a puppy or dog is just sitting around without anything to do, he will reach a limit where boredom turns into frustration. And where monotony turns into depression. If your Poodle has been too bored, you may not even realize it until you hand over a super-fun, interactive toy and see him perk up. Alternatively, some Poodles are very expressive about how they feel. It must be noted that regular exercise plays a role in this as well. If your Poodle is not taken out twice per day for at least minute sessions, even the best of toys may not fix his woes. So, a good balance of getting outside for walks and offering the right toys during down-time is the best fix. Qualities of the best toys to fix boredom and keep a Poodle occupied: You'll want toys that will be perfect for both when a Poodle is home alone and also when you are home but cannot interact with your Poodle at the moment. These toys should: Allow a Poodle to play fully independently; you will not need to do anything else other than point out the toy if you are there. Call out to the puppy or dog. A huge aspect is that the toy interacts with the dog. In this way, playing is a two-way street. The dog noses the toy, the toy responds. The dog chews the toy, the toy reacts. This type of element can keep a dog busy for a long time, basically until he's completely tuckered out. Recommended 'stay busy' toys for Poodles: There ares some incredibly fun options. The Babble Balls toys are out of this world; these are super interactive toys that can keep a puppy or dog amused and busy for hours. There are 3 sizes small for toys, medium for minis, and large for standard Poodles. Also, there are two fun types. One lets out animal noises. So, as a Poodle touches the toy, engaging sounds like pigs, frogs, bears, birds, even other dogs speak to him. There are 20 different animal sounds in all. The other is just as wonderful. It lets out funny phrases such as 'Come here, puppy! There are 20 amusing, encouraging phrases in all. For both of these, the toys automatically shut off when not in use, so the batteries do not run out. The Look Who's Taking line of toys is super fun as well. There are over 15 different types of stuffed animals, and each one makes a corresponding animal noise. These are good sized quality toys that stand up to daily playing. The size of these toys range from 5" the baby chick to 7" the cow and a bunch in between. There is a parrot, frog, rooster, monkey, goat, lobster, and more. These toys are shown below. These serve two purposes in one swoop. As an added benefit, if you place your Poodle's food in this sort of toy on days that you are not home, it helps prevent bloat, a dangerous health condition fast eating is a common trigger , which is a top concern for standard Poodles and is always something to be aware of no matter what type or size dog you have. Qualities of great treat-release toys: There are a few aspects to keep in mind. For this type of toy to do its job, it should: Hold in treats enough that they are not released too easily, but at the same time allow a Poodle to smell them in order to trigger a response. Be designed to work with a variety of different dog treats so that you are not forced to purchase additional treats. Be made with safe materials. Be durable to stand up to daily use. Be easy to clean since you'll want to be able to rinse away food particles. Be sized correctly. It's not uncommon for owners of toy Poodles to have trouble finding treat dispensing toys for their tiny dogs, so for these Poodles, it must fit the needs of dogs 10 lbs. Recommended treat dispensing toys for toy, mini and standard Poodles: There are some great options for all Poodles images below. Busy Buddy makes two treat release toys. The barnacle toy is perfect for toy Poodles, even puppies. It is composed of 3 tiny separate spheres, so toy Poodle can easily mouth onto one of them at a time. If you like the looks of this one, but don't have a toy Poodle, no worries.The other type is the twist sphere, which is adjustable, so you can control how easy or hard it is for your Poodle to get to the treats. This comes in small for dogs 8 to 20 lbs. The IQ Treat Ball is a great toy for toy Poodles on the larger end, minis and standards; this is available in both 3 and 4 inch diameters. It's a neat little sphere that is adjustable and releases food as it's nudged which encourages a dog to move. The Bob-A-Lot is a good-sized toy that is best suited for mini and standard Poodles. This has a large chamber that holds a full meal, and its bright color and wobbly movements make eating fun. Distress and even panicking when owners are away is referred to as separation anxiety, and this is not uncommon with dogs. In fact, it may be even more so with breeds like the Poodle due to their instinctive sensitivity and close human bonding. So, while all toys are important in their own way, perhaps the one type that can make the most dramatic impact on a Poodle is a companion toy. These will mimic a living creature to become an instant friend. With this, a dog is no longer alone. In addition, it would be remiss to not mention webcam devices that allow you to interact with your Poodle when you're not there. These are quite amazing, though are not fitting for those on a tight budget. Qualities of best companion toys: There's no competition here and there's no comparing. The very best ones are Smart Pets; these are good-sized quality stuffed animals that emit a rhythmic, soothing heartbeat. This alone instantly swoops away heavy feelings of isolation. In addition, is an option to send out a comforting warmth. This is as close as you can get to giving your Poodle a companion without obtaining another dog, and these are just marvelous. Qualities of the best pet webcams: Not very long ago, there were some sparse choices for this; however, the features where quite limited. Now, there's some truly amazing devices. While these can be a bit pricey, if you really want to go all out and come the absolute closest you can to being with your Poodle when you're not with him, the webcam will: Have two-way audio so that you can both speak to your Poodle and hear any barking in response. Have a wide-angle view and night vision, so that you can clearly see your puppy or dog at all times and under any sort of lighting though it is always recommended to keep lights on for a dog that's home alone. Easily sync to your smartphone Hold a good number of treats, so that the interaction can be frequent and extended. Toss treats out with a tap on your phone, and at a good distance to make it clear that you're playing with your Poodle. Our 1 recommend companion toys and a super-neat interactive webcam are below. If you don't see the images, try a refresh. On mobile, you may need to turn your screen horizontal to see all 4. It's what they live for. So, no matter how busy the day may get, the best thing you can do for your Poodle is to make time each day to play. It can be as little as 15 minutes, and it will mean the world. And do not discount older adults and even seniors. The need to hold onto bonds is stronger than ever. However, it's not uncommon for a Poodle to need something colorful and interesting to get really involved with a game of fetch. You'll want it to be durable and importantly the right size so that your Poodle can easily mouth it. Another option that is great to play on rainy days are puzzle games. With this, you work together as a teacher and student. You'll teach your Poodle how to nose levers and paw buttons to find hidden treats. There is something to be said about the Poodle ranking 2 in intelligence ; this is indeed a super smart breed. However, dogs are as smart as opportunity allows.For these, you'll want to pay attention to the level typically 1,2 and 3 or beginner, intermediate, and advanced so that the puzzle is doable. Recommended super-fun fetch toys and a fun puzzle game are below this one is level 2, but there are lots of options. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share Us. Feeding a Poodle Overview Ensuring that your Poodle is on a well-balanced diet is one of the most important elements to keeping your canine family member healthy, both now and into the future. This section will cover all Poodle feeding guidelines including how often to feed a Poodle, serving sizes, dry vs wet, grain vs grain-free, and top recommended kibble. Don't need all of the details and just want to know which brands are recommended? New Puppies - The Importance of Gradually Switching Foods Before you even bring your Poodle home, it is very important to discuss with the breeder or shelter worker if you are adopting a rescue exactly which brand of food they have been feeding to your Poodle. A fast change in food can cause upset stomach and digestive problems. Breeders and shelters are buying food in bulk and have to feed many dogs which is a factor in which brand they choose; so there is a good chance that you will want to offer your Poodle something different. Have both the current food and the new food on hand and make a gradual switch over the course of 3 weeks. Though you will be leaving food out at all times, it is important that the food is fresh. Do not just top it off throughout the day, rinse and clean the bowl as necessary so that old food is not stuck at the bottom of the dish. Puppy: Starting at just about the 3 month mark, Poodles of all varieties should be eating 3 meals per day, plus snacks. Adult: When a pup matures into an adult, this does not necessarily mean that they should suddenly be given only one meal a day. Smaller dogs such as Toy Poodles and Miniatures often do best with 2 or even 3 meals per day. Standards have a bit more tolerance to a single dinnertime feeding, however many can also benefit from having food split up into two servings. Several snacks can be given in between meals and this is particularly helpful is a Poodle is a fast eater. How Much to Feed a Poodle Exact serving size varies quite a bit depending on the type of food. There is a big difference in calories between wet vs dry and low quality vs high quality. And, the amount of food that a Poodle should be eating depends on the dog's age, activity level, individual metabolism, and health status. Even the weather can play a role since dogs tend to eat a bit more in the winter and a bit less in the summer. In regard to calorie requirements, puppies need more calories per pound than their adult counterparts, approximately 40 to 55 calories per pound, daily, compared to adult dogs that need about 35 to 45 calories per pound, daily. S enior Poodles typically have slower metabolisms and reduced mobility and therefore usually require slightly fewer calories, in the 40 calorie per pound range. If you are feeding your Poodle a commercial food, follow the suggested feeding guidelines. These are usually pretty spot-on. Since these are based on both age and weight, do not estimate how much your Poodle weighs but rather know what this is within a pound or two. If you are feeding your Poodle homemade food, a rough guideline for serving size is 1 ounce of food for each 1 pound of body weight, daily. As you can imagine, this can vary quite a bit depending on the exact ingredients. Using the 1 to 1 rule as a starting point, what your Poodle consumes within 15 minutes is usually a good amount for each meal. Wet vs Dry If a Poodle had their way, most would opt for wet food. However, dry food is recommended since this is much better for the gums and teeth. In addition, dry kibble tends to be easier on the stomach and intestines and a diet of all wet canned food can lead to runny stools. Grain vs Grain-free Until relatively recently, there was not much debate on this subject; if a dog tended to have gastrointestinal or allergy issues when on a diet with grains, they were switched to a grain-free recipe. However, this changed when it was discovered that several dogs that were breeds not prone to dilated cardiomyopathy developed that particular heart disease and also happened to be fed grain-free kibble. Lots of pet parents immediately thought that they needed to change their dogs back to grains; however, many more studies need to be done. In fact, the most recent update from the Veterinary Medical Center at Tufts University suggests that 'grain-free' alone may not be the issue at play. For now, it is theorized that a certain diet dubbed a BEG diet may be to blame. This stands for boutique small local brands with exotic meats non-traditional meats like alligator, bison, ostrich, venison, and kangaroo and grain-free along with peas, legumes, or potatoes as one of the top 5 ingredients. Currently there are no recalls of grain-free dog food brands and the FDA is still investigating any possible links including the BEG theory. If your Poodle does not do well with any grains at all, you may wish to stick to a brand that has traditional meats like chicken, turkey, or beef or a fish-based recipes. And, if you are not sure about which grains your Poodle may do okay with, you may wish to opt for wholesome non-wheat and non-gluten grains like rice brown or white , oatmeal, quinoa which is technically a seed. Exact recommendations for the best foods include both grain and grain-free options. Elements to Keep in Mind When Choosing Food for Your Poodle What to avoid: It's no wonder that pet parents have a difficult time navigating the many choices of dog foods in their quest to find the best brand to give their Poodle, there are a lot of ingredients to avoid: Artificial flavoring like MSG which can cause terrible allergic reactions. Artificial coloring. Some of the worst are Yellow 5, Red 40, Blue 2, and Yellow 6 which are linked to very serious issues including neurological and behavioral issues like insomnia and hyperactivity and serious health issues including some cancers. Chemical preservatives. This can be tricky to avoid since these do not always need to be labeled; if these are added to protect 'protein meals' in low levels, you'll never see it listed as an ingredient. These are meats and animal parts deemed unfit for human consumption. Examples are lungs, spleen, spinal tissue, genitals, hooves, beaks, intestines, and more. Generic meats or oils. This can, by law, be any species of animal whatsoever and are usually 4-D animal parts: Sourced from dead, diseased, dying, or disabled zoo animals, farm animals, or even roadkill. These are very common in cheaper subpar brands and are inexpensive ingredients that are added only to plump up the food but offer little to no nutritional value. Examples of fillers include corn, soy, wheat middlings, peanut hulls, oat husks, and cereal grains. Ingestion of fillers is a contributing factor in coprophagia eating feces and is linked to malnutrition. High grain count. Though some wholesome grains may be desired next section , high levels of wheat or gluten can cause upset stomach issues and allergies. What to look for: Knowing what to avoid can help you identify some of the better brands though exact recommendations are below. This means zero artificial additives. Natural preservatives. Wholesome ingredients. For meats and proteins this includes chicken, turkey, duck, lamb, rabbit, beef, and many types of fish including whitefish, haddock, salmon, and cod. You'll also want your Poodle to have some vegetables and fruits which provide vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. Zero fillers. Every ingredient should serve the purpose of providing nutrients and never added simply to bulk up the recipe. The right balance of healthy grains. Though some Poodles will need to avoid all grains, most do very well with select non-wheat, non-gluten options including oatmeal, quinoa, and rice. Added extras. Next, we'll cover exact recommendations that fit all of the above criteria. Best Food for Poodles: Recommended Brands Please note that if you have not yet read ' Grain vs Grain-free ' section, you may wish to do so before continuing. Top recommend food with grains: 1. Wellness Complete Health Natural Dry. For larger miniatures and standards, you'll want to opt for their regular Complete Health. There are also puppy, adult, and senior formulas. All of these have no wheat, corn or other fillers, artificial coloring or flavoring, soy, meat by-products, or chemical preservatives, so you can feel very confident that your filling your Poodle's bowl with truly wholesome, healthy food. These recipes also have excellent levels of omega-3 fatty acids. And, this is made in the USA. Halo Natural Holisitc Dog Food. This top brand has found its niche by offering a purely holistic, organic recipe with non-GMO veggies and fruits and meats with no antibiotics, no hormones, and no factory farming. The protein base is chicken and liver, the two grains in this are oats and barley, and vegetables and fruits include peas, blueberries, cranberries, carrots, and sweet potato. All other ingredients are to naturally preserve the kibble or are vitamins and minerals. This particular recipe is for small breeds, however there is also an original for larger dogs. Halo is made in the USA. Top recommended food without grains: 1. Merrick is a great brand which offers this recipe for small breeds, like toy Poodles and another option for larger dogs which would include miniatures and standards. Protein bases include Texas beef, lamb, chicken, and salmon. There is no corn or other fillers, wheat, gluten, artificial additives, or chemical preservatives. And, there are excellent levels of omega-3 and both pre and probiotics. Merrick is also made in the USA. The CORE formula from Wellness is, by far, one of the very best grain-free foods on the market today. It hits very single checkbox of what you are ideally looking for in a food for your Poodle and it has some superior extras. There are excellent levels of glucosamine and chondroitin, omega fatty acids, and antioxidants. There is both a small breed formula and an original formula for minis and standards as well as puppy recipes and a reduced fat option. Wellness is made in the USA. What to Feed Your Poodle if Home Cooking You will want to have a mix of protein, healthy grains, vegetables and fruits. Proteins can include beef, chicken, turkey, lamb, veal, and fish cod, flounder, salmon, whitefish. Vegetables can include sugar snap peas, green beans, lima beans, spinach, peas, zucchini, carrots, sweet potato, and regular potato. Fruits can include blueberries, strawberries, raspberries, apple, and pear. Extras can include eggs, salmon oil, extra virgin olive oil, certain cheese with low levels of lactose Colby, Monterey Jack, Swiss cheese, and cottage cheese and plain whole white yogurt. Note that if you home cook, you will want to include a daily vitamin and mineral since it is near impossible for any combination of foods to offer a dog every nutrient that they need. Snacks Snacks and treats are also an important part of a dog's diet. Dry treats often labeled as baked or crunchy are best to tide over the appetite in between meals. Moist or chewy treats are best when used as training rewards and to reinforce good behavior. Rapid ingestion of food can lead to gas, vomiting, or upset stomach and is linked to killer bloat. Types of Nuts that a Poodle Can Eat - If you are snacking away on some nuts and want to share them with your Poodle, see which ones are safe and which are not. Poodle Begging Behavior - Giving into begging for table scraps or extra snacks contributes to this bad habit. See how to react if your Poodle won't stop begging. Overly Picky Poodles - Read how to address finicky eaters to make mealtime less stressful for both of you. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share Us.

Optimal feeding amounts may vary according to your pet's temperament, activity level and environment. If you have any questions regarding your pet's health, please contact your veterinarian. Transition Instructions We recommend at least a 7 day transition before you begin feeding the new food exclusively. On the 7th day, you can feed the new food exclusively. All of our dry diets are preserved naturally with mixed tocopherols, citric acid, and rosemary extract. Our canned diets are naturally preserved and sterilized during the cooking and canning process. Where do the ingredients in Royal Canin diets come from? Royal Canin is making strides towards sustainability by attempting to obtain sources of raw materials as close to each manufacturing facility as possible. In some cases, we use international suppliers, because only those suppliers can offer raw materials that comply with our quality and food safety standards. Why do some Royal Canin diets contain by-products? Royal Canin chooses ingredients because they deliver high-quality nutrients that support our customized pet food formulas. Using chicken by-product meal instead of chicken meal for example will allow Royal Canin to maintain its highly customized nutrient standards while achieving a more secure and sustainable supply. Why do some Royal Canin diets contain grains? As always, we focus on the nutrients each ingredient provides and grains can provide many important nutrients. How do you ensure Royal Canin diets are safe for my pet? Our Quality and Food Safety systems are state-of-the-art and we continue to invest heavily in new technology to make sure they remain that way. We monitor every load delivered to our plants to verify the safety and quality of the ingredients we use to make pet food. We perform tests on finished pet foods before they are shipped to our customers. How do I know which Royal Canin diet is right for my pet? Based on size, age, lifestyle, and breed, each cat or dog has unique nutritional needs. For healthy pets, use our Product Selector to find the right diet for your cat or dog. If your pet is experiencing health issues, please refer to your veterinarian for more information. Your veterinarian will consider multiple factors when recommending an appropriate diet. We recommend that you keep your pet in ideal body condition and not allow them to become overweight. The amount of food your pet needs can vary based on age, activity level or other food and treats given, so be sure to work with your veterinarian to determine an appropriate weight for your pet, and to make any necessary adjustments to their feeding. Golden puppies are lovable, large breed pups prized for their playful personalities, trainability, and soft, gorgeous coats. They can benefit from the right growth formula to help provide immune system support, maintain a healthy skin and coat, and aid digestion as they take on puppyhood. Royal Canin Golden Retriever dry puppy food is tailor-made nutrition created just for your pure breed Golden Retriever puppy. This exclusive breed-specific diet is uniquely formulated for your Golden Retriever puppy with specific nutrients to help them thrive. An exclusive mix of antioxidants and vitamin E supports their developing immune system and keeps their body growing strong. Nutrients reinforce the skin barrier to protect skin and maintain a beautiful golden, long coat. Once your Golden puppy is over 15 months old, transition them to Royal Canin Golden Retriever Adult dog food for precise nutrition into the adult years. Not satisfied? Then neither are we. Just contact us for more details. Next Description Royal Canin Golden Retriever Puppy dry dog food is designed to meet the nutritional needs of purebred Golden Retrievers 8 weeks to 15 months old. Golden puppies are lovable, large breed pups prized for their playful personalities, trainability, and soft, gorgeous coats. They can benefit from the right growth formula to help provide immune system support, maintain a healthy skin and coat, and aid digestion as they take on puppyhood. Royal Canin Golden Retriever dry puppy food is tailor-made nutrition created just for your pure breed Golden Retriever puppy. This exclusive breed-specific diet is uniquely formulated for your Golden Retriever puppy with specific nutrients to help them thrive. An exclusive mix of antioxidants and vitamin E supports their developing immune system and keeps their body growing strong. Nutrients reinforce the skin barrier to protect skin and maintain a beautiful golden, long coat. Once your Golden puppy is over 15 months old, transition them to Royal Canin Golden Retriever Adult dog food for precise nutrition into the adult years. Ingredients Chicken by-product meal, corn, wheat gluten, chicken fat, wheat, brewers rice, brown rice, powdered cellulose, natural flavors, brewers rice flour, dried plain beet pulp, fish oil, vegetable oil, sodium silico aluminate, monocalcium phosphate, potassium chloride, calcium carbonate, psyllium seed husk, fructooligosaccharides, sodium tripolyphosphate, vitamins [DL-alpha tocopherol acetate source of vitamin E , niacin supplement, L-ascorbylpolyphosphate source of vitamin C , D-calcium pantothenate, biotin, pyridoxine hydrochloride vitamin B6 , riboflavin supplement, thiamine mononitrate vitamin B1 , vitamin A acetate, folic acid, vitamin B12 supplement, vitamin D3 supplement], hydrolyzed yeast source of betaglucans , salt, taurine, choline chloride, glucosamine hydrochloride, marigold extract Tagetes erecta L. Guaranteed Analysis. Home Delivery Select a variant to view product availability Royal Canin knows what makes your Golden Retriever puppy magnificent is in the details. Golden puppies are lovable, large breed pups prized for their playful personalities, trainability, and soft, gorgeous coats. They can benefit from the right growth formula to help provide immune system support, maintain a healthy skin and coat, and aid digestion as they take on puppyhood. Royal Canin Golden Retriever dry puppy food is tailor-made nutrition created just for your pure breed Golden Retriever puppy. This exclusive breed-specific diet is uniquely formulated for your Golden Retriever puppy with specific nutrients to help them thrive. An exclusive mix of antioxidants and vitamin E supports their developing immune system and keeps their body growing strong. Nutrients reinforce the skin barrier to protect skin and maintain a beautiful golden, long coat. Once your Golden puppy is over 15 months old, transition them to Royal Canin Golden Retriever Adult dog food for precise nutrition into the adult years.