pictures of black labrador puppies

This way, you will know what to expect and if this is the right breed for your home. Ashford Manor Labradoodles Ashford Manor Labradoodles is one of the breeding centers you can rely on if ever looking for labradoodle dogs in Indiana. They have been in this industry for a long time now, which means they have already established a reputation among dog lovers. They have a wide variety of Labradoodle puppies for sale, and that is why you will never have a hard time choosing from them. Ashford Manor only works with the top Australian Labradoodle lines, and they go through every procedure to a tee. The dogs would not be unaware of this, but they get improved genetics in terms of superior hypoallergenic and non-shedding hair. In addition, they maintain a small breeding program to give each puppy the attention and socialization it requires for them to grow up to be loving, loyal pets. Ashford breeds multigenerational mini and medium-sized Labradoodle puppies. A professional trainer guides these pedigree puppies in fluffy, allergy-friendly, and non-shedding coats. Each puppy comes with a 2-year genetic health guarantee. Address: West Columbia St. This is why Chestnut Hill Labradoodles is one of the top breeders on the list. Chestnut Hill Labradoodles is located in Indiana, and they can provide you with all the information you need about their services and products. The puppies learn through positive reinforcement and puppy culture training because the first sixteen weeks are so important. They are best known for their multigenerational mini, medium, and standard-sized Labradoodle puppies. Not to mention that this Gold Paw enterprise is one of the favorites in Indiana for Labradoodle puppies. In addition, they offer a two-year health guarantee. Not only do they provide excellent services, but they also offer different types of puppies, depending on what you are looking for. Daffodil Hill Australian Labradoodles are popular for their mini and medium-sized puppies. They are multigenerational hypoallergenic dogs that are not only friendly but also intelligent. Each puppy will be part of your family for the rest of its life. They breed only the finest Australian and American multigenerational non-shedding Hypoallergenic miniature and medium Labradoodle for sale. Its mission is to provide loving families with the healthiest and best-natured Labradoodle pups in Indiana. Forever Friends uses a gentle and kind temperament to ensure that the puppies are comfortable in every situation, which is why Doodles from Forever Friends make excellent family pets. They breed F1, F1B, and multigenerational labradoodle puppies in both mini and medium sizes. They provide excellent services, but their pups are also highly intelligent and make great family pets. Furthermore, they guarantee their puppies for two years from genetic diseases. If you have allergies, the Harvest Labradoodles are perfect for you because they are non-shedding and very friendly, making them ideal as family pets. Address: Located on a small family farm in Madison, Indiana. Phone: Website: www. We hope that you will find it helpful to adopt one of these non-shedding and hypoallergenic dogs. They will be perfect as your new family pet, and they will have a positive impact on your life. Smaller Labradoodle breeders in Indiana offer advantages such as greater specific care for each puppy and a feeling of becoming part of the family when you buy from them. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. These days I have two adorable fuzzy rascals around me, that ensures I get plenty of exercise and laughter throughout my day! Legal Information The owner of this site, LabradoodleHome. This site also participates in other affiliate programs and is compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies. Labradoodle Home does not intend to provide veterinary advice. All articles and posts are aimed at giving users a better understanding of their dogs. The content on this blog is not a substitute for veterinary guidance. Amazon OneLink. Ashford Manor offers important services that benefit you, your puppy, and your family! Puppy Bootcamp Your puppy is already socialized and prepared for family life, but this takes it a step further. For an additional fee and in four weeks, your puppy will begin to know basic commands. Grooming Services Australian Labradoodles are groomed in a special way. Many groomers do not this, but we do. Try us out! It takes time to search for the best products for your dog. We understand that. She is amazing, wonderful, and adorable. Nothing seems bothers her: not the noise, car horns, police sirens, fire engines, or motorcycles. You should hear all the comments I get from people who stop me to ask what breed she is and tell me how cute and beautiful she is. He is totally crate trained, and has very rarely had an accident inside. He slept the first night and every night from 11pm-6AM better than any of my 4 kids! People with dogs say that we are very lucky and have such a great dog! She is always the smartest one in the class as she is such a quick learner! Izzy is pretty much completely potty trained — she regularly rings the bells — though she has figured out that ringing the bells get her the attention she likes, so she does that for fun sometimes too. He is just a doll and the grand kids love him. Kids absolutely adore her — thank you for such a wonderful puppy. Our breeding program includes Labradoodles from Tegan Park and Rutland Manor, the originators of this clever breed. We are dedicated to preserving the Australian Labradoodle, by insuring sound breeding practices, excellence and the highest standard of ethics. Our dogs and puppies live in our home as loved pets. They are well socialized and used to children and other animals. Proper socialization is important to the puppy you will adopt so much attention is given to your new puppy. While in our home we take the utmost care of your new puppy. Your little prince or princess will be treated like royalty. You can be assured that the best care and attention is given to all aspects of breeding, and that we are devoted to advancing and preserving this unique breed. Only sound Labradoodles are allowed to participate in our breeding program. Our adherence to these policies backs up our guarantee in providing only the best Australian Labradoodles. It is my goal to produce the finest companion for your family and am honored that so many families come to me for their puppy. Australian Labradoodles. We raise high-quality Mini Labradoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini labradoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high-quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! F1B Mini Labradoodle Puppies are a second-generation cross or hybrid. The father is a Mini Poodle and the mother is an F1 Labradoodle. The F1B Minature Labradoodles usually have soft hair that is usually wavy or curly. Thes puppies are considered semi-hypoallergenic since they shed minimally. These puppies can be a good fit if a person that has mild pet allergies. Once F1B Mini Labradoodles reach 6 months old they require to be groomed once every 8 weeks or so to keep their fur healthy and to stop matting. Adult F1B Mini labradoodle dogs range in size from 14 inches in height and pounds in weight. The average life span is typically years of age. The F1BB puppies usually have curlier coats and will be totally hypoallergenic. Once the F1BB pup is 6 months they will need regular grooming every 6 to 8 weeks. F1BB Puppies are usually slightly smaller than F1B puppies and range from 12 inches in height and pounds in weight. Mini Labradoodles are known for their intelligence and the ability to be trained very easily. They make amazing family pets and love to participate in family activities like swimming, hiking, camping or just playing tag in the yard. This breed is also a good choice for people who live in apartments as long as they get at least minutes of exercise a day. So if you live near Marion Indiana and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Labradoodle puppy that can be delivered to you then check out our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Labradoodle pups that have been adopted. If you click and purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Learn More Are you looking for adorable Labradoodle puppies in Indiana? All of them follow ethical breeding practices and make sure that their puppies come from healthy, carefully screened parents. For this, ethical Labradoodle breeders in Indiana conduct rigorous health and genetic testing on their breeding dogs. Only dogs who have passed with flying colors are used for breeding purposes, which greatly reduces the risk of the puppies inheriting any genetic conditions or hereditary illnesses. Some breeders even offer a three-year health warranty! All of these organizations require that their member breeders follow their strict health testing standards, ethical breeding practices, and provide the pups a nurturing, loving, and safe environment to grow up in. Additionally, some breeders also post their customer testimonials on their websites. Chestnut Hill Labradoodles is a Puppy Culture breeder and also utilizes important puppy rearing techniques from Avidog. They make sure that all of their pups are properly socialized with children, adults, elderly, and other dogs before adoption. They also implement various enrichment methods, such as potty training, crate training, Early Neurological Stimulation ENS , regular grooming, household desensitization, and more. What Makes This Breeder Unique? Puppies receive their age appropriate vaccinations, dewormings, a microchip, free pet insurance for 30 days through Trupanion, and early spaying or neutering. We also offer older trained pet puppies!!! The hard part is already done for you! She is already crate trained sleep through the night and is doing excellent on potty training with no accidents in over a week!!! She is learning to walk on a leash and getting well socialized. For more info on this sweet girl call Pat at .See our facebook page for more pictures and updates! Uriel loves her humans! She likes to be a shadow and be right by anyone in the house! She enjoys car rides and snuggles! She loves to run and play outside and then cool off on the air conditioning vent! She would do best with older children and adults. Her very favorite activity is laying on the bed next to her human and snuggling in for a long nap! For more info call Pat at .This little girl is just so much fun! Ursula is a fun loving, spunky, playful girl, that would thrive in an active family. She would also love a family that has another dog for a playmate. Ursula loves car rides and loves to play with her toys and retrieve them for you! She is doing well with crate training, and potty training and learning to walk on a leash. For more info on making this fun loving girl a part of your family call Pat at .Possibility of all colors solid and parti. Call Pat at to reserve a puppy. We take calls 7 days a week from 9am-9pm. We are on Eastern time. Puppies expected winter See our facebook page for more pictures and updates! We reserve the right to retain potential breeding stock puppies from any litter. We reserve the right to deny anyone one of our puppies. We also reserve the right to change mating pairs based on circumstances.

We can see when your Boxer puppy will become their adult size and reach its full height. Your new puppy will grow rapidly for the first two weeks. Your pup should weigh between 4. When your doggo is between six and eight weeks old, they should also prepare for their first vaccinations. Males should be around 17 to 19 inches .At one year old, females should weigh between 55 and 65 pounds .Many factors are involved. For your doggo to maintain a healthy lifestyle, monitoring their growth and weight is a good idea. How can you tell how big a Boxer will get? Within the first six months of age, your Boxer will grow rapidly. You can tell how big your pooch may get by looking at their paws and head. For example, your furry friend may look disproportionate for a while. However, some parts of their body will catch up to the rest within a few months or even a few weeks. Is your Boxer at a healthy weight? You can typically tell whether or not your Boxer is at a healthy weight by their ribs. But, on the other hand, if you can feel and see their ribs, they may be underweight. Always check with your vet to be on the safe side. What are some Boxer dog body shape changes? Boxer puppies grow in height faster than their weight gain. When this dog breed matures and becomes an adult, they will have a wide chest. But, overall, Boxer is strong and lean. In addition, different factors are involved when it comes to impacting how your dog grows. In addition, reputable breeders should have this information. The nutrition you feed your pooch can help or hinder their growth. For example, if you feed them dog food with unhealthy fillers and lots of fat, they may become obese, thus hurting their growth and overall health. Will neutering or spaying your Boxer affect their growth? Spaying or neutering your Boxer has more pros than cons. For example, some health conditions may include hip dyslexia, bloat, acne, arthritis, and cancer. The best way to ensure your pooch remains healthy is to work together with your veterinarian. Take your dog to regular vet appointments at least once per year for an annual check-up. In addition, talk to your vet about the type of dog food and exercise your Boxer should be getting. If your doggo is overweight or underweight, the vet will be able to help. Finally, properly groom your doggo. Physical activity Boxers need plenty of room to run around and stretch their legs. However, they love to play and enjoy a round of fetch with you in a fenced-in yard. Just be sure to wait until their bones and joints are fully developed before taking them for jogs or hikes. Otherwise, they could have joint issues later in life. Dangers of stunted or accelerated growth If your Boxer is a little bigger or small than the others of its breed, that may not necessarily be a bad thing. However, some issues can occur. For example, your pooch may be smaller due to a growth hormone deficiency. This controls the growth rate in dogs, their bone and teeth development and maintains a healthy coat. Dwarfism could also be the reason. When do Boxers stop growing? You can expect your Boxer to be fully grown and stop growing between 18 and 24 months of age. This system works on a scale of one to nine. One means your pup is underweight and unhealthy. Nine means they are extremely overweight. The ideal place on the scale where you want your large dog to be is a five. What should you do if your Boxer is growing too fast? Growth disorders can occur in larger dogs, such as Boxers. If you notice your dog growing too fast, talk to your vet first. How to help your Boxer lose weight if he is overweight? This includes their diet and exercise. Take a look at what dog food you feed your pooch. In addition, do you feed your doggo people food and table scraps? Do Boxer mixes vary in size? If you want to learn more, you can read about Boxer mixes here. How Big Is Your Boxer? These happy doggos are a delight to have around. Boxers are great companions dogs for anyone young or old. While this pooch can have certain health conditions, they do have an average growth track. Overall, with proper exercise and dieting, your Boxer will develop into a happy, healthy pup. Did your Boxer puppy grow on track? Let us know in the comments below. Further reading: Learn more about the Growth of other Dog Breeds. This post may contain affiliate links. Read more here. Courage and loyalty are attributes the Boxer is usually described with. With a good work ethic, playful demeanor, and a goofy face, this dog breed ranks among the top 10 in the USA for a while now. Their nobility and elegance came to focus after the originally working breed Boxer became unemployed during the early 19th century. The breed name derives from the way they defend themselves with their paws while playing. It really appears as the dog spars with the front paws. There is no doubt one might be tempted to get bring home one of these loving fellas. The growth in dogs has much to say about their health and potential — but how? While growing up dogs that suffer from some diseases might stagnate more than others. Boxers are a medium to large dog breed and are pretty safe from the usual bone and muscle disorders in larger dogs. However, hip dysplasia remains one of the most common issues. Reputable breeders will let you meet the parents and give you contacts from owners of puppies born in previous litters. Most Boxer puppies will correspond just fine to the ranges mentioned for their age. It is super important to not rush the growing process. Dogs that are overweight can experience problems later on in life that might have been avoided by maintaining an appropriate body condition. Moreover, the veterinarian can have the pup checked for possible health conditions causing the slow growth. Photo by otsphoto on Shutterstock Even with late bloomers, there is no reason to worry. Some dogs experience growing episodes sooner than others. The same rules apply to puppies that grow too fast. Damage due to wrong feeding can be avoided by using high-quality premium food and sticking to the recommendations according to weight and age on the labels. Never miss out on consulting your vet on the topic first — they will be glad to guide you through it! Boxer Growth Stages Until they reach adulthood, Boxers go through 3 growth stages. The general difference between the growth stages is how fast the puppy grows during the period and how they appear in posture and body condition. The first stage is from birth until they are 2 weeks of age. After the second week, the growth rate slows down. Most breeders wean the puppies off around the 4th-5th week. At 18 months of age, you can probably introduce your companion as a fully developed, curious, and independent adult Boxer. Boxer puppies have somewhere between 2. At the end of the first stage, they can reach around 4. At 1 month of age, their stuffed muscle figure comes at about 5. By the time they are 16 weeks old, males weigh lbs .Male Boxers are expected to have approximately lbs .In the next six months, the growth slows down to about lbs 0. Male Boxers should weigh around lbs kg by the time they reach 6 months of age. Female boxer puppies are expected to have lbs kg when they are half a year old. Since the Boxer qualifies as a medium to large breed, it takes longer for them to reach their full-sized version compared to other smaller breeds. There are exceptions when Boxers complete the growth at 20, even 24 months. Female Boxers that are done growing up weigh approximately lbs kg and stand .Their male counterparts have between 60 and 70 lbs kg and are 23 to 25 inches cm tall. In the meantime provide quality food, regular exercise, and maintain regular veterinary check-ups to ensure their well-being. As with all other dog breeds, some adult Boxers will be smaller than the standard dimensions of the breed. On the other hand, there is a handful of those that are larger than the standard too. Genetics is the most probable cause for this. Rarely do Boxers end up being smaller than the rest due to low production of the growth hormone. Luckily growth hormone problems in Boxers are very rare and other breeds such as the Miniature Pinscher, Spitz, or Karelian Bear Dog are more prone to the condition. Growth defects in dogs can appear due to Dwarfism Achondroplasia. Minor deformities can be surgically corrected, but again with a dubious prognosis. In Conclusion Understanding the growth chart will help you understand what role nutrition, diet, and exercise plays and adjust accordingly. Getting rid of excess weight or ruling out health issues is something you and your vet can work on together. Disclaimer: This blog post does not substitute veterinary attention and does not intend to do so. I am not a veterinarian or pet nutritionist. If your dog shows any sign of illness, call your vet. Post navigation. As a medium to large-sized dog breed, Boxers need more time to fill out and reach their full size than smaller dog breeds. As a general rule, expect your Boxer to grow until they are 18 to 24 months old. Keep in mind that this range is an estimate, so there are always exceptions. Image Source: Canva How big should a 6-month-old Boxer be? A 6-month-old male Boxer should weigh around 41 to 48 pounds, while a 6-month-old female Boxer will weigh about 39 to 44 pounds. According to Care. For a male Boxer puppy, this would be around 17 to 19 inches tall. Pro Tip: Check out this downloadable new puppy checklist covering topics like vaccination schedules, setting up the home for a new puppy, teething, veterinary visits, and more! How much bigger will my Boxer get? There are several ways to estimate how much bigger your Boxer will grow. If your Boxer is less than two years old, they are likely still growing. Some Boxers stop growing closer to 18 months, but many Boxers will continue to fill out in weight and body size until they are two years old. A puppy will rarely be larger than either parent, so this can give you a clearer idea of their maximum size. Do their paws look oversized compared to their legs and the rest of their body? This is a strong sign that your Boxer is still growing and filling out! What is the size of a full-grown Boxer? According to the American Kennel Club Official Boxer Standards , a full-grown male Boxer will stand around 23 to 25 inches tall, while a female Boxer will stand about .A fully grown male Boxer will weigh around 60 to 70 pounds, with their female counterpart will weigh about 55 to 65 pounds. As with many things, prevention is always better than treatment. Taking your Boxer to regular veterinary appointments is one of the best things you can do for their health, along with consistent love and care at home. One of the best things you can do at home is brush your dog's teeth regularly to help prevent painful periodontal disease and avoid pricey dental treatments in the future. Periodontal disease can cause bad breath and oral pain for your pup and may require your Boxer to have a dental cleaning or tooth extractions under anesthesia at some point in their lives if not attended to at home. Keeping your Boxer at a healthy weight is crucial for their longevity, overall health, and happiness. If your Boxer is overweight, talk to your veterinarian to develop a weight loss strategy so that you can get them back on track. Consult with your veterinarian about the ideal food and exercise for your Boxer. Like all dogs, Boxers have certain conditions that they are prone to. Boxers are a purebred dog breed prone to heart problems, like cardiomyopathy, heart valve narrowing, and congenital heart defects. Brachycephalic syndrome increases their risk of respiratory distress, allergies, heatstroke, and sinus problems. Regular veterinarian appointments are crucial in finding and treating illness early to give your Boxer the healthiest and longest life possible. Unfortunately, veterinary bills can be costly with many treatments for emergencies and illnesses, such as heart problems, being thousands of dollars to treat. When surveyed, .The financial safety net provided by pet insurance is why pet insurance is worth it for many pet parents. Keep in mind that even healthy behaviors, like exercise, can be overdone. Consult with your veterinarian about how much exercise is prudent. Medium to large-sized dogs that are still growing may suffer from joint damage if they are overexercised. Make a plan with your veterinarian today to provide your Boxer with the ideal amount of exercise to keep them lean, healthy, and happy. Boxer puppies grow into strong and sturdy adults that make fun-loving, often silly companions, and fierce protectors. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. Boxer Newborn Puppy Care Overview If you have had a litter of Boxer puppies at your home and you are in charge of taking care of a newborn Boxer puppy, much attention must be taken during the first 8 weeks. From the moment of birth until the pups are at least 2 months old, a person must be close by and ready for any situation. Each week will bring new changes and responsibilities. This is a crucial time for care that can shape the health of the dog for its lifetime. How to Know if a Boxer Puppy is Getting Enough Milk The amount of times that a newborn puppy drinks milk from its mother varies from pup to pup. The important aspect is to know if a puppy is receiving enough throughout the day. Sometimes larger newborns will push their way to Mama and smaller puppies may not be getting enough milk. Some puppies may not be strong enough to suckle from smaller nipples some will be larger than others or strong enough to suckle once other pups have done so, and as the milk supply runs lower a puppy needs to suckle harder. How do you know if a Boxer puppy is getting enough milk? It is important to weigh each puppy. This can be done with a baby scale or electronic kitchen scale. Of course, take great care when weighing them. Always use the same type of blanket or cushioning on the scale so that you always get an accurate weight and the blanket does not affect the weight Weigh each puppy 2 times per day: AM and PM Keep careful track of who is who! You can do this by using a dot of white-out fluid applied to the ear in a certain area or other gentle marking method If a puppy shows no weight gain each day, you must take steps to ensure that pup receives more nutrition If a newborn is not gaining weight: Give the larger puppies a supplement Allow the smaller puppy to drink first; the larger puppies will have more strength to suck harder to retrieve their milk If There is a Weight Loss: This can be extremely dangerous. During the first few days it will not be milk; it will be Colostrum. This is a highly nutritional fluid that gives vital antibodies to the puppy. The puppy will sleep almost all the time, when not drinking. The Boxer pup will also make soft noises. As long as the puppy's body is warm and you feel him or her breathing naturally, all should be fine. A puppy this young will not be able to eliminate on its own. The mother will lick the pup to stimulate the expulsion of bowel or urine. Do not be shocked if the dam then eats this. The newborn Boxer puppy will have its eyes closed. They will stay this way for about 10 to 15 days. The umbilical cord will still be damp and certainly not ready to fall off. Day 2 It is perfectly normal for a Boxer puppy to lose weight on its 2nd day of life. Carefully watch for any Boxer newborn that seems to be getting pushed out of the way by other pups and unable to drink from mom. If this is happening, remove the other puppies after they feed and allow the hungry puppy to nurse alone, not bothered by their brothers and sisters. Day 3 Talk to your veterinarian regarding docking the tail , if you have decided to do so. This is often done on day 3. This decision should be carefully thought about. In addition, the Boxer puppy's cord will be dry and just about ready to fall off. Dewclaws, if removed, are usually done so on this day by your dog's experienced veterinarian. Week 1 Puppies should be weighed each day. This can be done by preparing a small basket, lined with a soft and clean towel. The basket can be placed on the scale first, with the weight noted. Then, the puppy should be placed inside the basket. Subtract the weight of the basket to have the exact weight of your Boxer puppy. There should be an increase each day. If not, be sure to immediately contact your dog's veterinarian. Nails grow very quickly and should be trimmed as often as each day if needed. A clotting solution, such as Kwik Stop should be used in case the quick of the nail is cut by accident something to carefully avoid. As the pup matures, many owners find that a grinder tool works much better than a clipper. Some dogs need to learn to tolerate the noise, but once they do, grinding down nails can be fast and easy. Week 2 The eyes of the Boxer puppy may begin to open. This is a slow process in which they will open bigger and for more time each day. Puppies will still be nesting near mom. You should take a bit more time to handle the puppies. This is done to slowly allow the mother to become used to you holding them and for the puppies to begin bonding with you. Week 3 The Boxer puppy's eyes should be completely open. Ears will be open now, as well. The ear canal should be fully formed. This is a bit of a noisy time, as the Boxer puppies will begin to find their "voices" and begin to bark. A 3 week old Boxer will have an urge to leave the whelping box. They will have an instinctual urge to eliminate outside of their resting and sleeping area. One side of the box can be removed, with newspapers placed right outside. A 2nd box can be connected to the 1st whelping box. This will allow the pups to have room to romp around and play. This will also give the Boxer mom time to rest without her puppies jumping all over her. Allowing the puppies to play with each other in a safe and comfortable box is a necessary part of the first socialization they need. Week 4 When does a Boxer puppy begin eating solid food? The weaning process begins just about now, in Week 4. You may also wish to offer the very health option of homemade meals of only fresh ingredients. Start with small amounts. It will be a slow yet steady process for a puppy's digestive system to become used to solid food. Extra heating can be removed. The room should be at a comfortable 72 F .Week 5 You should begin introducing small toys to the puppy. The weight of the puppy should still be checked, this can be done every other day now. Normal weight varies very much but should fall in the range of 2 lbs. Feeding should change slightly, with more puppy food and less water. The dam may want to spend more time away from the puppies. This is where an owner must step in and have much more interaction with the puppies. While still fragile, they should be more than happy to be patted, cuddled and played with. Week 6 A Boxer puppy will be eating quite a bit of puppy dog food than before. Too young to be house trained , this may be a messy week or 2 since bowel movements will become more frequent. While it is too early to expect a puppy to be trained yet, if the weather is warm and day this is a great week to introduce a puppy to the outside world. If you are caring for more than 1 pup, take each one outside separately or 2 at the most. Always keep the Boxer on a leash and beware of any dogs in the area. Allow them to become used to what grass feels like! Allow a pup to enjoy the warmth of the sun and the refreshment of a cool breeze. Week 7 Puppies may not be nursing at all any more. They should be spending quite a bit of time with you and with the other puppies. Going outside should be a daily routine. The dam should be brought outside with the pups; she will use this time to teach them skills. This is the time to be very close to a dog's normal routine of grooming , feeding, exercise and play time. Week 8 This is the week that the puppies will receive their 1st vaccinations. If you will not be keeping the puppies, now is the time to begin the process of finding them a good home. All prospective owners should be evaluated fully. Make home visits if possible. Do not be afraid to ask many questions. If you will be keeping all or some of the puppies, now is the time to fall into normal care for your dog. Housebreaking training can begin as well as falling back into your normal schedule. See Also: Boxer puppy care - Overview of what is needed to take great care of a new Boxer puppy. Boxer dog questions and answers - Round-up of some of the most common issues and care elements with the Boxer breed. Bruno's first week—7 weeks old, 12 pounds, 10 inches from the ground to the highest point of the shoulders the withers. We adopted Bruno when he was 7 weeks old. We had to wait until he was ready to leave the breeder before we could pick him up and bring him home. The breeder's policy was not to let the pups go until they are 8 weeks old, however Bruno's mother had died at birth and therefore he was not going to get that extra week with her and because of a schedule conflict on our end she made an exception. We decided to crate train our new puppy. Most puppies will cry all night in the beginning days because they miss their mother and their littermates. I placed Bruno's crate in the kitchen since it has a floor that can easily be cleaned in case of an accident. Dreading the sound of a crying puppy all night, and knowing this was the first night away from his litter I told two of my children to set up camp on the kitchen floor next to the crate. I did not want to bring the pup into our bed since we do not plan on allowing him on the beds when he is older. It worked, Bruno slept in his crate and didn't yip all night because he was not alone. Allie, our adult Boxer and two of our children were next to his crate. This allowed Bruno to learn what the crate was for, yet not be left alone. Bruno was exhausted from his three-hour car ride home and all of the attention he was receiving. Amazingly enough, he slept until a. I jumped out of bed and ran down to take him out to pee. It was then time for breakfast, another trip outside and playtime. I was up for the day because when he woke up, he needed to be taken right outside to pee and poop. Then he was hungry. After he ate he needed to be taken immediately outside once again to go to the bathroom. After a puppy eats, it stimulates them and the vast majority of time, they need to eliminate, it's a rule of thumb with a puppy. Then he wanted to play. After all, he just woke up! No time like the present to get hyper and want to play. He had three accidents in the last two days, which is very good for a brand new puppy. If Bruno is out of his crate, he needs to be watched constantly. I don't mean watched from across the room, I mean watched as in "hovering over him watched" to ensure he does not pee, poop or chew anything he is not supposed to inside the house. During the day we try not to crate him. He's either being held, hovered over or outside. We are lucky enough to have a very large fenced yard for him. If we did not, he'd have to be walked on a leash to go to the bathroom, which would be much more time-consuming. We have to teach Bruno not to bite our hands and feet. Yes, it is cute now and kind of funny, but when he is pounds it will not be so cute anymore. Rule of thumb with a puppy: if you do not want him doing it when he is full grown, do not allow him to do it when he is a puppy. This includes sitting with him on the furniture. Another thing we must break him from is chasing our cats. Again, it's cute and funny now, but this tiny little Boxer puppy will not be tiny for long and our cats would not appreciate an adult dog chasing them around. Cats are smart, if we allow this to go on they may even decide to take up residence elsewhere. Allie the Boxer meets her new brother. Adult dogs usually do not attack puppies and Allie rather liked the little guy. She did have to put him in his place a few times, which is normal dog behavior. An adult dog will often growl at a puppy to let it know its behavior is not acceptable. For example, when Bruno wanted to play and Allie did not, she let out a small growl and stomped at the pup to tell him enough was enough. Bruno took the hint and backed off his play and started chewing on Allie's collar and dog tags instead. Allie didn't seem to mind getting her tags chewed. She realizes Bruno is just a baby. I am lucky enough to be home with the puppy. If I had to leave for work things would be much more complicated. Bruno is young and he can only hold his pee and poop for a certain amount of time. The point of crate training a dog is you put the dog in a small enough crate so there is only room to comfortably sleep. Dogs do not like to eliminate where they sleep. However, if you leave a young puppy in a crate for too long, they cannot physically hold it in and they must go, even on their bedding. If you allow this to happen, you are going backwards in your housebreaking. If you are going to be gone for many hours a day, longer than the puppy can physically hold it, it is better to pen the dog in an area such as the kitchen where the floors are easy to clean up and place some pee pads down. It is not fair to crate a puppy or dog longer then they can comfortably hold in their waste. It is much harder to housebreak a dog if you are not home. This can really give the puppy a bad start in life and will be no fault of its own when they do not understand the concept of housebreaking. Keep in mind, you cannot yell at a dog for something after the fact, you must catch it in the act. If you do not catch it in the act, your yelling is pointless and confusing to the dog. I am writing this at a. However, he will be up bright and early wanting to eliminate, eat and play.It's now a. Bruno had to go to the bathroom. I walked him outside to the spot where I prefer him to do his business. He peed and I decided to give him some time to see if he had to poop as well; he is still outside and I must go and check on my adorable bundle of a puppy.Bruno is back in his crate. Bruno is yipping. I instinctively go and see him. Goodnight, Bruno, you have a lot to learn my young puppy. Sshhhh, lets only hope he does not keep me up all night because I will have to put up with his yipping in order to teach him what nighttime means. As I type this he is yipping from his crate. I am off to shower and go to bed. I decide to let Bruno get a drink and put him outside with Allie one last time before I go to bed to ensure he does not have to go when I ignore his plea to come out of his crate. When I turned off the shower water I could hear Bruno yipping up a storm. It woke my 9 year old who was almost sleepwalking when she opened his crate to put him outside to pee. I did her the favor of taking the pup out and told her to go back to bed. I put Bruno outside. He stayed out for a few minutes then wanted back in. It is only his third night away from his littermates and he's a tiny pup. After getting the usual puppy kisses all over my neck yeah, nice after my shower, huh? I will give him a few minutes to get good and sleepy then place him back in his crate and hope for the best. Even with all of this work, I look at him like I did my newborn babies; I just love this little puppy! The next morning: 7 weeks and 3 days old a. Bruno's up, hungry and ready to play! Bruno is tired and ready to go back to sleep. But first, his head smells like pee; he must have rolled in it. Time to clean him up and then put him back to sleep. He's taken outside to go to the bathroom and to play. He is now awake for the day but will take numerous naps as puppies need a lot of sleep. We will try not to allow his naps to last for hours on end, as those long sleep periods should be adjusted to the middle of the night hours. This size crate is the perfect size for this puppy. There needs to be room to sleep, stretch out and stand, but not enough room for him to pee in one section and still have a dry place to sleep. It's Bruno's fourth day with us and he has already picked up on the concept that his crate is the place to sleep without being disturbed. We are not being extra quiet as it is the middle of the day and he must get used to noises. Also most of his quiet sleep should be adjusted for the middle of the night. He'll soon wake to eat his lunch, go to the bathroom and play. He'll be awake for a few hours and then need another nap. This crate may be perfect for now, but very soon he'll outgrow it and we'll have to get him a larger one. I let Bruno sleep for two hours and decided it was time to wake him. As soon as he turns his hours around and is sleeping through the night I will no longer worry about the length of his daytime naps. I know he can sleep through the night; he did it the first two nights, but not the third. Bruno's 4th night: 7weeks and 4days old Bruno woke up at a. I came downstairs and put him outside. He peed and pooped. I carried him back to his crate and closed it. He laid down, then a few minutes later he started crying again. I walked back to the kitchen and was about to tell him to be quiet and give him a bone to chew when some motherly instinct inside me opened the crate door. Bruno walked out of his crate and over to my feet then sat down, leaning on my leg. I picked up the little fellow, he put his head on my shoulder and started to go back to sleep. My typical advice would be to put the puppy back in the crate if you are sure he no longer has to go to the bathroom, however I walked over to the rocking chair and rocked him back to sleep. I then put him back in his crate and he woke back up in the process, but this time he went to sleep and stayed asleep until a. He is just like a newborn baby and he's sweet as can be. Bruno's 5th night: 7 weeks and 5 days old Bruno woke up at a. I came down and took him outside and he went to the bathroom. I held him for just a bit until he calmed back down, then put him back in his crate and he fell back to sleep by a. Bruno woke up again. He was ready to play and eat his breakfast. I was beat, so at a. I tried putting him back in his crate to see if he would go back to sleep. It seemed like it just might work. I headed back to bed. At he started yipping just as I lay down. I went back to his crate and held a bone up to him to chew on and talked quietly to him. His eyes started drooping as he half chewed his bone still inside his crate. I waited there for just a bit until his eyes stayed closed for a minute or two, then I went back to bed for an hour. Housebreaking Bruno is now 7 weeks and 5 days old. He seemed to be doing so well with housebreaking. He was either inside being watched, in his crate or outside. As soon as he woke we put him outside to pee. He is not in his crate unless he's sleeping. Bruno was falling asleep so I decided to put him in his crate for a nap. As I leaned down to put him in his crate I smelled something. I felt his blankets and sure enough they were damp. Bruno had been peeing in his crate and sleeping in it! I changed his bedding and he seemed quite pleased. Now I have to figure out how to stop him when he's not doing it in front of me. The crate is not too large, which would have been my first advice to someone, to check the crate size. He is only 7 weeks. Maybe I am not always hearing him wake up in the middle of the night. At this age, puppies can only physically hold it for so long before they have to go, no matter what. Baby monitor??? Bruno smells like pee from sleeping in his crate. Time for a bath. Bruno's 6th night: 7 weeks and 6 days old Bruno was up at a. I let him out to pee. He went back to sleep shortly after and re-awoke at a. Bruno peed in his crate again, in the very back corner. I had to throw his bedding in the wash again and replace it with new bedding. His crate is not too large. I believe I need to watch how much he drinks right before bedtime. Puppies at this age have small bladders and cannot physically hold it in for too long. Bruno asked to come back inside the house and wanted to curl up in my lap, which means he's ready to go back to sleep. I put him back in his crate with the fresh bedding. Allie and Bruno sharing the dog bed. Yes, I do believe they like one another. Why Bruno.Bruno peed on his dog bed, the bed we keep on the porch for him. I had to hose his bed off and prop it up to dry. This is him asking mommy why she got his bed all wet with the hose. Actually, it is him discovering some new and interesting smells the moisture is bringing out from the bed! As a medium to large-sized dog breed, Boxers need more time to fill out and reach their full size than smaller dog breeds. As a general rule, expect your Boxer to grow until they are 18 to 24 months old. Keep in mind that this range is an estimate, so there are always exceptions. Image Source: Canva How big should a 6-month-old Boxer be? A 6-month-old male Boxer should weigh around 41 to 48 pounds, while a 6-month-old female Boxer will weigh about 39 to 44 pounds. According to Care. For a male Boxer puppy, this would be around 17 to 19 inches tall. Pro Tip: Check out this downloadable new puppy checklist covering topics like vaccination schedules, setting up the home for a new puppy, teething, veterinary visits, and more! How much bigger will my Boxer get? There are several ways to estimate how much bigger your Boxer will grow. If your Boxer is less than two years old, they are likely still growing. Some Boxers stop growing closer to 18 months, but many Boxers will continue to fill out in weight and body size until they are two years old. A puppy will rarely be larger than either parent, so this can give you a clearer idea of their maximum size. Do their paws look oversized compared to their legs and the rest of their body? This is a strong sign that your Boxer is still growing and filling out! What is the size of a full-grown Boxer? According to the American Kennel Club Official Boxer Standards , a full-grown male Boxer will stand around 23 to 25 inches tall, while a female Boxer will stand about .A fully grown male Boxer will weigh around 60 to 70 pounds, with their female counterpart will weigh about 55 to 65 pounds. As with many things, prevention is always better than treatment. Taking your Boxer to regular veterinary appointments is one of the best things you can do for their health, along with consistent love and care at home. One of the best things you can do at home is brush your dog's teeth regularly to help prevent painful periodontal disease and avoid pricey dental treatments in the future. Periodontal disease can cause bad breath and oral pain for your pup and may require your Boxer to have a dental cleaning or tooth extractions under anesthesia at some point in their lives if not attended to at home. Keeping your Boxer at a healthy weight is crucial for their longevity, overall health, and happiness. If your Boxer is overweight, talk to your veterinarian to develop a weight loss strategy so that you can get them back on track. Consult with your veterinarian about the ideal food and exercise for your Boxer. Like all dogs, Boxers have certain conditions that they are prone to. Boxers are a purebred dog breed prone to heart problems, like cardiomyopathy, heart valve narrowing, and congenital heart defects. Brachycephalic syndrome increases their risk of respiratory distress, allergies, heatstroke, and sinus problems. Regular veterinarian appointments are crucial in finding and treating illness early to give your Boxer the healthiest and longest life possible. Unfortunately, veterinary bills can be costly with many treatments for emergencies and illnesses, such as heart problems, being thousands of dollars to treat. When surveyed, .The financial safety net provided by pet insurance is why pet insurance is worth it for many pet parents. Keep in mind that even healthy behaviors, like exercise, can be overdone. Consult with your veterinarian about how much exercise is prudent. Medium to large-sized dogs that are still growing may suffer from joint damage if they are overexercised. Make a plan with your veterinarian today to provide your Boxer with the ideal amount of exercise to keep them lean, healthy, and happy. Boxer puppies grow into strong and sturdy adults that make fun-loving, often silly companions, and fierce protectors. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. This post may contain affiliate links. Read more here. Courage and loyalty are attributes the Boxer is usually described with. With a good work ethic, playful demeanor, and a goofy face, this dog breed ranks among the top 10 in the USA for a while now. Their nobility and elegance came to focus after the originally working breed Boxer became unemployed during the early 19th century. The breed name derives from the way they defend themselves with their paws while playing. It really appears as the dog spars with the front paws. There is no doubt one might be tempted to get bring home one of these loving fellas. The growth in dogs has much to say about their health and potential — but how? While growing up dogs that suffer from some diseases might stagnate more than others. Boxers are a medium to large dog breed and are pretty safe from the usual bone and muscle disorders in larger dogs. However, hip dysplasia remains one of the most common issues. Reputable breeders will let you meet the parents and give you contacts from owners of puppies born in previous litters. Most Boxer puppies will correspond just fine to the ranges mentioned for their age. It is super important to not rush the growing process. Dogs that are overweight can experience problems later on in life that might have been avoided by maintaining an appropriate body condition. Moreover, the veterinarian can have the pup checked for possible health conditions causing the slow growth. Photo by otsphoto on Shutterstock Even with late bloomers, there is no reason to worry. Some dogs experience growing episodes sooner than others. The same rules apply to puppies that grow too fast. Damage due to wrong feeding can be avoided by using high-quality premium food and sticking to the recommendations according to weight and age on the labels. Never miss out on consulting your vet on the topic first — they will be glad to guide you through it! Boxer Growth Stages Until they reach adulthood, Boxers go through 3 growth stages. The general difference between the growth stages is how fast the puppy grows during the period and how they appear in posture and body condition. The first stage is from birth until they are 2 weeks of age. After the second week, the growth rate slows down. Most breeders wean the puppies off around the 4th-5th week. At 18 months of age, you can probably introduce your companion as a fully developed, curious, and independent adult Boxer. Boxer puppies have somewhere between 2. At the end of the first stage, they can reach around 4. At 1 month of age, their stuffed muscle figure comes at about 5. By the time they are 16 weeks old, males weigh lbs .Male Boxers are expected to have approximately lbs .In the next six months, the growth slows down to about lbs 0. Male Boxers should weigh around lbs kg by the time they reach 6 months of age. Female boxer puppies are expected to have lbs kg when they are half a year old. Since the Boxer qualifies as a medium to large breed, it takes longer for them to reach their full-sized version compared to other smaller breeds. There are exceptions when Boxers complete the growth at 20, even 24 months. Female Boxers that are done growing up weigh approximately lbs kg and stand .Their male counterparts have between 60 and 70 lbs kg and are 23 to 25 inches cm tall. In the meantime provide quality food, regular exercise, and maintain regular veterinary check-ups to ensure their well-being. As with all other dog breeds, some adult Boxers will be smaller than the standard dimensions of the breed. On the other hand, there is a handful of those that are larger than the standard too. Genetics is the most probable cause for this. Rarely do Boxers end up being smaller than the rest due to low production of the growth hormone. Luckily growth hormone problems in Boxers are very rare and other breeds such as the Miniature Pinscher, Spitz, or Karelian Bear Dog are more prone to the condition. Growth defects in dogs can appear due to Dwarfism Achondroplasia. Minor deformities can be surgically corrected, but again with a dubious prognosis. In Conclusion Understanding the growth chart will help you understand what role nutrition, diet, and exercise plays and adjust accordingly. Getting rid of excess weight or ruling out health issues is something you and your vet can work on together. Disclaimer: This blog post does not substitute veterinary attention and does not intend to do so. I am not a veterinarian or pet nutritionist. If your dog shows any sign of illness, call your vet. Post navigation. We can see when your Boxer puppy will become their adult size and reach its full height. Your new puppy will grow rapidly for the first two weeks. Your pup should weigh between 4. When your doggo is between six and eight weeks old, they should also prepare for their first vaccinations. Males should be around 17 to 19 inches .At one year old, females should weigh between 55 and 65 pounds .Many factors are involved. For your doggo to maintain a healthy lifestyle, monitoring their growth and weight is a good idea. How can you tell how big a Boxer will get? Within the first six months of age, your Boxer will grow rapidly. You can tell how big your pooch may get by looking at their paws and head. For example, your furry friend may look disproportionate for a while. However, some parts of their body will catch up to the rest within a few months or even a few weeks. Is your Boxer at a healthy weight? You can typically tell whether or not your Boxer is at a healthy weight by their ribs. But, on the other hand, if you can feel and see their ribs, they may be underweight. Always check with your vet to be on the safe side. What are some Boxer dog body shape changes? Boxer puppies grow in height faster than their weight gain. When this dog breed matures and becomes an adult, they will have a wide chest. But, overall, Boxer is strong and lean. In addition, different factors are involved when it comes to impacting how your dog grows. In addition, reputable breeders should have this information. The nutrition you feed your pooch can help or hinder their growth. For example, if you feed them dog food with unhealthy fillers and lots of fat, they may become obese, thus hurting their growth and overall health. Will neutering or spaying your Boxer affect their growth? Spaying or neutering your Boxer has more pros than cons. For example, some health conditions may include hip dyslexia, bloat, acne, arthritis, and cancer. The best way to ensure your pooch remains healthy is to work together with your veterinarian. Take your dog to regular vet appointments at least once per year for an annual check-up. In addition, talk to your vet about the type of dog food and exercise your Boxer should be getting. If your doggo is overweight or underweight, the vet will be able to help. Finally, properly groom your doggo. Physical activity Boxers need plenty of room to run around and stretch their legs. However, they love to play and enjoy a round of fetch with you in a fenced-in yard. Just be sure to wait until their bones and joints are fully developed before taking them for jogs or hikes. Otherwise, they could have joint issues later in life. Dangers of stunted or accelerated growth If your Boxer is a little bigger or small than the others of its breed, that may not necessarily be a bad thing. However, some issues can occur. For example, your pooch may be smaller due to a growth hormone deficiency. This controls the growth rate in dogs, their bone and teeth development and maintains a healthy coat. Dwarfism could also be the reason. When do Boxers stop growing? You can expect your Boxer to be fully grown and stop growing between 18 and 24 months of age. This system works on a scale of one to nine. One means your pup is underweight and unhealthy. Nine means they are extremely overweight. The ideal place on the scale where you want your large dog to be is a five. What should you do if your Boxer is growing too fast? Growth disorders can occur in larger dogs, such as Boxers. If you notice your dog growing too fast, talk to your vet first. How to help your Boxer lose weight if he is overweight? This includes their diet and exercise. Take a look at what dog food you feed your pooch. In addition, do you feed your doggo people food and table scraps? Do Boxer mixes vary in size? If you want to learn more, you can read about Boxer mixes here. How Big Is Your Boxer? These happy doggos are a delight to have around. Boxers are great companions dogs for anyone young or old. While this pooch can have certain health conditions, they do have an average growth track. Overall, with proper exercise and dieting, your Boxer will develop into a happy, healthy pup. Did your Boxer puppy grow on track? Let us know in the comments below. Further reading: Learn more about the Growth of other Dog Breeds. Boxer Newborn Puppy Care Overview If you have had a litter of Boxer puppies at your home and you are in charge of taking care of a newborn Boxer puppy, much attention must be taken during the first 8 weeks. From the moment of birth until the pups are at least 2 months old, a person must be close by and ready for any situation. Each week will bring new changes and responsibilities. This is a crucial time for care that can shape the health of the dog for its lifetime. How to Know if a Boxer Puppy is Getting Enough Milk The amount of times that a newborn puppy drinks milk from its mother varies from pup to pup. The important aspect is to know if a puppy is receiving enough throughout the day. Sometimes larger newborns will push their way to Mama and smaller puppies may not be getting enough milk. Some puppies may not be strong enough to suckle from smaller nipples some will be larger than others or strong enough to suckle once other pups have done so, and as the milk supply runs lower a puppy needs to suckle harder. How do you know if a Boxer puppy is getting enough milk? It is important to weigh each puppy. This can be done with a baby scale or electronic kitchen scale. Of course, take great care when weighing them. Always use the same type of blanket or cushioning on the scale so that you always get an accurate weight and the blanket does not affect the weight Weigh each puppy 2 times per day: AM and PM Keep careful track of who is who! You can do this by using a dot of white-out fluid applied to the ear in a certain area or other gentle marking method If a puppy shows no weight gain each day, you must take steps to ensure that pup receives more nutrition If a newborn is not gaining weight: Give the larger puppies a supplement Allow the smaller puppy to drink first; the larger puppies will have more strength to suck harder to retrieve their milk If There is a Weight Loss: This can be extremely dangerous. During the first few days it will not be milk; it will be Colostrum. This is a highly nutritional fluid that gives vital antibodies to the puppy. The puppy will sleep almost all the time, when not drinking. The Boxer pup will also make soft noises. As long as the puppy's body is warm and you feel him or her breathing naturally, all should be fine. A puppy this young will not be able to eliminate on its own. The mother will lick the pup to stimulate the expulsion of bowel or urine. Do not be shocked if the dam then eats this. The newborn Boxer puppy will have its eyes closed. They will stay this way for about 10 to 15 days. The umbilical cord will still be damp and certainly not ready to fall off. Day 2 It is perfectly normal for a Boxer puppy to lose weight on its 2nd day of life. Carefully watch for any Boxer newborn that seems to be getting pushed out of the way by other pups and unable to drink from mom. If this is happening, remove the other puppies after they feed and allow the hungry puppy to nurse alone, not bothered by their brothers and sisters. Day 3 Talk to your veterinarian regarding docking the tail , if you have decided to do so. This is often done on day 3. This decision should be carefully thought about. In addition, the Boxer puppy's cord will be dry and just about ready to fall off. Dewclaws, if removed, are usually done so on this day by your dog's experienced veterinarian. Week 1 Puppies should be weighed each day. This can be done by preparing a small basket, lined with a soft and clean towel. The basket can be placed on the scale first, with the weight noted. Then, the puppy should be placed inside the basket. Subtract the weight of the basket to have the exact weight of your Boxer puppy. There should be an increase each day. If not, be sure to immediately contact your dog's veterinarian. Nails grow very quickly and should be trimmed as often as each day if needed. A clotting solution, such as Kwik Stop should be used in case the quick of the nail is cut by accident something to carefully avoid. As the pup matures, many owners find that a grinder tool works much better than a clipper. Some dogs need to learn to tolerate the noise, but once they do, grinding down nails can be fast and easy. Week 2 The eyes of the Boxer puppy may begin to open. This is a slow process in which they will open bigger and for more time each day. Puppies will still be nesting near mom. You should take a bit more time to handle the puppies. This is done to slowly allow the mother to become used to you holding them and for the puppies to begin bonding with you. Week 3 The Boxer puppy's eyes should be completely open. Ears will be open now, as well. The ear canal should be fully formed. This is a bit of a noisy time, as the Boxer puppies will begin to find their "voices" and begin to bark. A 3 week old Boxer will have an urge to leave the whelping box. They will have an instinctual urge to eliminate outside of their resting and sleeping area. One side of the box can be removed, with newspapers placed right outside. A 2nd box can be connected to the 1st whelping box. This will allow the pups to have room to romp around and play. This will also give the Boxer mom time to rest without her puppies jumping all over her. Allowing the puppies to play with each other in a safe and comfortable box is a necessary part of the first socialization they need. Week 4 When does a Boxer puppy begin eating solid food? The weaning process begins just about now, in Week 4. You may also wish to offer the very health option of homemade meals of only fresh ingredients. Start with small amounts. It will be a slow yet steady process for a puppy's digestive system to become used to solid food. Extra heating can be removed. The room should be at a comfortable 72 F .Week 5 You should begin introducing small toys to the puppy. The weight of the puppy should still be checked, this can be done every other day now. Normal weight varies very much but should fall in the range of 2 lbs. Feeding should change slightly, with more puppy food and less water. The dam may want to spend more time away from the puppies. This is where an owner must step in and have much more interaction with the puppies. While still fragile, they should be more than happy to be patted, cuddled and played with. Week 6 A Boxer puppy will be eating quite a bit of puppy dog food than before. Too young to be house trained , this may be a messy week or 2 since bowel movements will become more frequent. While it is too early to expect a puppy to be trained yet, if the weather is warm and day this is a great week to introduce a puppy to the outside world. If you are caring for more than 1 pup, take each one outside separately or 2 at the most. Always keep the Boxer on a leash and beware of any dogs in the area. Allow them to become used to what grass feels like! Allow a pup to enjoy the warmth of the sun and the refreshment of a cool breeze. Week 7 Puppies may not be nursing at all any more. They should be spending quite a bit of time with you and with the other puppies. Going outside should be a daily routine. The dam should be brought outside with the pups; she will use this time to teach them skills. This is the time to be very close to a dog's normal routine of grooming , feeding, exercise and play time. Week 8 This is the week that the puppies will receive their 1st vaccinations. If you will not be keeping the puppies, now is the time to begin the process of finding them a good home. All prospective owners should be evaluated fully. Make home visits if possible. Do not be afraid to ask many questions. If you will be keeping all or some of the puppies, now is the time to fall into normal care for your dog. Housebreaking training can begin as well as falling back into your normal schedule. See Also: Boxer puppy care - Overview of what is needed to take great care of a new Boxer puppy. Boxer dog questions and answers - Round-up of some of the most common issues and care elements with the Boxer breed. Bruno's first week—7 weeks old, 12 pounds, 10 inches from the ground to the highest point of the shoulders the withers. We adopted Bruno when he was 7 weeks old. We had to wait until he was ready to leave the breeder before we could pick him up and bring him home. The breeder's policy was not to let the pups go until they are 8 weeks old, however Bruno's mother had died at birth and therefore he was not going to get that extra week with her and because of a schedule conflict on our end she made an exception. We decided to crate train our new puppy. Most puppies will cry all night in the beginning days because they miss their mother and their littermates. I placed Bruno's crate in the kitchen since it has a floor that can easily be cleaned in case of an accident. Dreading the sound of a crying puppy all night, and knowing this was the first night away from his litter I told two of my children to set up camp on the kitchen floor next to the crate. I did not want to bring the pup into our bed since we do not plan on allowing him on the beds when he is older. It worked, Bruno slept in his crate and didn't yip all night because he was not alone. Allie, our adult Boxer and two of our children were next to his crate. This allowed Bruno to learn what the crate was for, yet not be left alone. Bruno was exhausted from his three-hour car ride home and all of the attention he was receiving. Amazingly enough, he slept until a. I jumped out of bed and ran down to take him out to pee. It was then time for breakfast, another trip outside and playtime. I was up for the day because when he woke up, he needed to be taken right outside to pee and poop. Then he was hungry. After he ate he needed to be taken immediately outside once again to go to the bathroom. After a puppy eats, it stimulates them and the vast majority of time, they need to eliminate, it's a rule of thumb with a puppy. Then he wanted to play. After all, he just woke up! No time like the present to get hyper and want to play. He had three accidents in the last two days, which is very good for a brand new puppy. If Bruno is out of his crate, he needs to be watched constantly. I don't mean watched from across the room, I mean watched as in "hovering over him watched" to ensure he does not pee, poop or chew anything he is not supposed to inside the house. During the day we try not to crate him. He's either being held, hovered over or outside. We are lucky enough to have a very large fenced yard for him. If we did not, he'd have to be walked on a leash to go to the bathroom, which would be much more time-consuming. We have to teach Bruno not to bite our hands and feet. Yes, it is cute now and kind of funny, but when he is pounds it will not be so cute anymore. Rule of thumb with a puppy: if you do not want him doing it when he is full grown, do not allow him to do it when he is a puppy. This includes sitting with him on the furniture. Another thing we must break him from is chasing our cats. Again, it's cute and funny now, but this tiny little Boxer puppy will not be tiny for long and our cats would not appreciate an adult dog chasing them around. Cats are smart, if we allow this to go on they may even decide to take up residence elsewhere. Allie the Boxer meets her new brother. Adult dogs usually do not attack puppies and Allie rather liked the little guy. She did have to put him in his place a few times, which is normal dog behavior. An adult dog will often growl at a puppy to let it know its behavior is not acceptable. For example, when Bruno wanted to play and Allie did not, she let out a small growl and stomped at the pup to tell him enough was enough. Bruno took the hint and backed off his play and started chewing on Allie's collar and dog tags instead. Allie didn't seem to mind getting her tags chewed. She realizes Bruno is just a baby. I am lucky enough to be home with the puppy. If I had to leave for work things would be much more complicated. Bruno is young and he can only hold his pee and poop for a certain amount of time. The point of crate training a dog is you put the dog in a small enough crate so there is only room to comfortably sleep. Dogs do not like to eliminate where they sleep. However, if you leave a young puppy in a crate for too long, they cannot physically hold it in and they must go, even on their bedding. If you allow this to happen, you are going backwards in your housebreaking. If you are going to be gone for many hours a day, longer than the puppy can physically hold it, it is better to pen the dog in an area such as the kitchen where the floors are easy to clean up and place some pee pads down. It is not fair to crate a puppy or dog longer then they can comfortably hold in their waste. It is much harder to housebreak a dog if you are not home. This can really give the puppy a bad start in life and will be no fault of its own when they do not understand the concept of housebreaking. Keep in mind, you cannot yell at a dog for something after the fact, you must catch it in the act. If you do not catch it in the act, your yelling is pointless and confusing to the dog. I am writing this at a. However, he will be up bright and early wanting to eliminate, eat and play.It's now a. Bruno had to go to the bathroom. I walked him outside to the spot where I prefer him to do his business. He peed and I decided to give him some time to see if he had to poop as well; he is still outside and I must go and check on my adorable bundle of a puppy.Bruno is back in his crate. Bruno is yipping. I instinctively go and see him. Goodnight, Bruno, you have a lot to learn my young puppy. Sshhhh, lets only hope he does not keep me up all night because I will have to put up with his yipping in order to teach him what nighttime means. As I type this he is yipping from his crate. I am off to shower and go to bed. I decide to let Bruno get a drink and put him outside with Allie one last time before I go to bed to ensure he does not have to go when I ignore his plea to come out of his crate. When I turned off the shower water I could hear Bruno yipping up a storm. It woke my 9 year old who was almost sleepwalking when she opened his crate to put him outside to pee. I did her the favor of taking the pup out and told her to go back to bed. I put Bruno outside. He stayed out for a few minutes then wanted back in. It is only his third night away from his littermates and he's a tiny pup. After getting the usual puppy kisses all over my neck yeah, nice after my shower, huh? I will give him a few minutes to get good and sleepy then place him back in his crate and hope for the best. Even with all of this work, I look at him like I did my newborn babies; I just love this little puppy! The next morning: 7 weeks and 3 days old a. Bruno's up, hungry and ready to play! Bruno is tired and ready to go back to sleep. But first, his head smells like pee; he must have rolled in it. Time to clean him up and then put him back to sleep. He's taken outside to go to the bathroom and to play. He is now awake for the day but will take numerous naps as puppies need a lot of sleep. We will try not to allow his naps to last for hours on end, as those long sleep periods should be adjusted to the middle of the night hours. This size crate is the perfect size for this puppy. There needs to be room to sleep, stretch out and stand, but not enough room for him to pee in one section and still have a dry place to sleep. It's Bruno's fourth day with us and he has already picked up on the concept that his crate is the place to sleep without being disturbed. We are not being extra quiet as it is the middle of the day and he must get used to noises. Also most of his quiet sleep should be adjusted for the middle of the night. He'll soon wake to eat his lunch, go to the bathroom and play. He'll be awake for a few hours and then need another nap. This crate may be perfect for now, but very soon he'll outgrow it and we'll have to get him a larger one. I let Bruno sleep for two hours and decided it was time to wake him. As soon as he turns his hours around and is sleeping through the night I will no longer worry about the length of his daytime naps. I know he can sleep through the night; he did it the first two nights, but not the third. Bruno's 4th night: 7weeks and 4days old Bruno woke up at a. I came downstairs and put him outside. He peed and pooped. I carried him back to his crate and closed it. He laid down, then a few minutes later he started crying again. I walked back to the kitchen and was about to tell him to be quiet and give him a bone to chew when some motherly instinct inside me opened the crate door. Bruno walked out of his crate and over to my feet then sat down, leaning on my leg. I picked up the little fellow, he put his head on my shoulder and started to go back to sleep. My typical advice would be to put the puppy back in the crate if you are sure he no longer has to go to the bathroom, however I walked over to the rocking chair and rocked him back to sleep. I then put him back in his crate and he woke back up in the process, but this time he went to sleep and stayed asleep until a. He is just like a newborn baby and he's sweet as can be. Bruno's 5th night: 7 weeks and 5 days old Bruno woke up at a. I came down and took him outside and he went to the bathroom. I held him for just a bit until he calmed back down, then put him back in his crate and he fell back to sleep by a. Bruno woke up again. He was ready to play and eat his breakfast. I was beat, so at a. I tried putting him back in his crate to see if he would go back to sleep. It seemed like it just might work. I headed back to bed. At he started yipping just as I lay down. I went back to his crate and held a bone up to him to chew on and talked quietly to him. His eyes started drooping as he half chewed his bone still inside his crate. I waited there for just a bit until his eyes stayed closed for a minute or two, then I went back to bed for an hour. Housebreaking Bruno is now 7 weeks and 5 days old. He seemed to be doing so well with housebreaking. He was either inside being watched, in his crate or outside. As soon as he woke we put him outside to pee. He is not in his crate unless he's sleeping. Bruno was falling asleep so I decided to put him in his crate for a nap. As I leaned down to put him in his crate I smelled something. I felt his blankets and sure enough they were damp. Bruno had been peeing in his crate and sleeping in it! I changed his bedding and he seemed quite pleased. Now I have to figure out how to stop him when he's not doing it in front of me. The crate is not too large, which would have been my first advice to someone, to check the crate size. He is only 7 weeks. Maybe I am not always hearing him wake up in the middle of the night. At this age, puppies can only physically hold it for so long before they have to go, no matter what. Baby monitor??? Bruno smells like pee from sleeping in his crate. Time for a bath. Bruno's 6th night: 7 weeks and 6 days old Bruno was up at a. I let him out to pee. He went back to sleep shortly after and re-awoke at a. Bruno peed in his crate again, in the very back corner. I had to throw his bedding in the wash again and replace it with new bedding. His crate is not too large. I believe I need to watch how much he drinks right before bedtime. Puppies at this age have small bladders and cannot physically hold it in for too long. Bruno asked to come back inside the house and wanted to curl up in my lap, which means he's ready to go back to sleep. I put him back in his crate with the fresh bedding. Allie and Bruno sharing the dog bed. Yes, I do believe they like one another. Why Bruno.Bruno peed on his dog bed, the bed we keep on the porch for him. I had to hose his bed off and prop it up to dry. This is him asking mommy why she got his bed all wet with the hose. Actually, it is him discovering some new and interesting smells the moisture is bringing out from the bed!

Overall, boxers love people and children. As long as they're properly socialized, they get along great with other pets. But boxers do sometimes have aggressive tendencies that need to be kept in check. Same-Sex Aggression The most common problem with aggressive behavior in boxers is territorial and dominance aggression toward other dogs of the same sex. This is especially true with female boxers. Although they generally get along fine with male dogs, female boxers tend to pick fights with other females. Boxers also tend to hold grudges; once one becomes angry with another dog, he might consider that dog to be a lifelong enemy. On-Leash Aggression Boxers need to be exercised regularly; unfortunately, being on-leash sometimes brings out their territorial nature, causing them to behave aggressively toward other dogs they meet. Boxers also sometimes become more protective and defensive of their owners while on leash. A head collar with a loop that goes over the muzzle can give owners more control and help to keep this sort of aggressive behavior in check. In the event that it goes too far, such a collar can help the owner to regain control of a fighting boxer without getting in the middle of the fight. Prey Instinct The boxer was originally bred from crossing a bulldog with a bullenbeisser, which is a German hunting dog. As such, the boxer inherited a strong instinct for catching prey, which leads the breed to display aggression toward small animals such as squirrels, rabbits and birds, and even sometimes larger animals such as sheep and deer. Dealing With Aggression Boxers are highly energetic dogs who require daily walks and other forms of exercise to help them release pent-up energy and stay calm. They are strong-willed and need owners who are both willing and able to be strong, dominant leaders and establish firm boundaries for acceptable behavior. Early socialization with other animals and people can help avoid aggressive tendencies as the boxer gets older. If your boxer shows aggressive tendencies despite your best efforts to contain them, consult a veterinary behavioral expert for help in getting the aggression under control. More Articles. Aggressive Behavior in Boxers: Fact or Fiction? Written by Dr. However, many people perceive them as aggressive. But is it true that they are aggressive without reason, or is this a misconception? Boxers are predisposed to display aggressive behavior. On the other hand, lack of exercise, socialization, training, traumatic experiences, and health challenges can make them aggressive. So, keep reading to learn more. Are They Aggressive to Humans? Boxers can be aggressive to humans they are not used to seeing. They have a friendly temperament and can become best friends with humans. Like other dog breeds, they will assume a defensive position and become protective when they see their parents with strangers. However, their training and breeding can influence aggressive behavior towards babies. Toddlers Boxers are great with toddlers and bond better with them if they grow up in the same household. However, you should monitor the interaction between boxers and toddlers. The child is still too young to read the cues from the dog thoroughly, and the dog may still be learning to interact with the child. Older Kids Older kids and boxers get along very well. Naturally, these older kids are more developed and can be trusted to relate well with dogs. The jovial temperament of boxers makes them great companions for older kids, especially when raised as puppies in the same household. They are familiar with these adults in the home. Familiarity over time tends to reduce any tensions. On the contrary, if the adults in the family are unfriendly toward dogs, you can expect your boxer to be hostile toward them. These breeds will defend themselves if they feel threatened rather than cower. Strangers Boxers react negatively and become protective when strangers appear at your front door. Lack of exposure as puppies makes them suspicious of everyone besides their parents. They will try to protect you if they feel you are in danger. They display their loyalty through aggression. This aggression can either be mild or intense and is a factor dependent on their training and level of exposure to people. They can either bark and retreat or attack the stranger in rare cases. If you ever experience the latter, you need to hire a canine trainer. Guests Guests will receive a similar treatment to strangers showing up in the house. However, boxers trained to be social when they were puppies will be friendly to anyone, including guests. Nonetheless, nature and nurturing play vital roles in the behaviors of dogs, and this affects how they treat humans. When nurtured by trainers and confident pet parents, they can adapt to new traits that are friendly to even guests. They often display severe hostility in this situation. This aggression could escalate to attacks if you trained the dog to be a guard rather than a pet. In this case, they are only friendly to family members and will defend their territory whenever a strange face shows up. On the contrary, boxers bred and trained as pets will only bark and rarely attack. Training can make them friendly towards family and friends and hostile to intruders or burglars. Outside Your Home Boxers are not suited for the outdoors. They can exhibit territorial dominance, extreme aggression, disobedience, and wild behaviors that are difficult to contain by pet parents. The best place to keep boxers is within the home. Most boxers require additional training to behave well outdoors. Are They Aggressive to Other Animals? Many boxers exert dominance and aggression over other animals. In extreme cases, this aggressive behavior will have them killing, fighting, or hurting others. Breeding, training and lack of socialization as puppies influence the level of aggression shown toward other animals. Other Animals in the Household Boxers are aggressive to other animals, including other dogs within the house. You can correct this trait through training from an early age so they can learn to cohabit with other pets. When it comes to cats, birds, rodents, and reptiles, boxers have strong instincts to hunt them, owing to their genetic makeup. Germans bred them for hunting, and this trait will linger until they have undergone intensive training. Animals They Encounter Outside Outdoors, this breed may show hostility toward other animals, including other dogs. They may also show friendliness depending on their mood and other factors like health issues, lack of exercise, social anxiety, and training. Boxers that are trained to be friendly or social with other animals, and people will not show aggression outside unless they perceive a situation as threatening. If your pet is always aggressive, a visit to a veterinary doctor and then a pet trainer can be the start of a rehabilitation process. Male boxers are generally more outgoing and aggressive than their female counterparts. This outgoing nature can make them exert dominance over their territory and become confrontational. Conversely, females are most aggressive when nursing their puppies and when they spot other females within their territory. They are more introverted and prefer the indoors. However, both genders are playful, fierce, and affectionate. As a pet parent, frequently observing your boxer for excessive displays of aggression is a good idea since underlying health challenges, lack of care, exercise, and other factors can influence such behavior. Always keep your vet doctor on speed dial or a trainer even if your pet is healthy. What Can Cause Aggressive Behavior? Some factors that can cause aggressive behavior in boxers include breeding history, tendency to exert dominance over their territory, socialization, and training. Breeding Germans originally bred boxers to be aggressive and strong. However, times have changed, and modern breeds are no longer vicious. They are now domesticated and serve as companions to humans while also playing the role of guards. When sourcing boxers, go for breeds that just got out of their litter and are between eight to ten weeks old. The most submissive will be too weak, and the most dominant will be challenging to tame. Having boxers that fall right in the middle of the dominance scale makes training easier. Socialization Aggression can be a product of social anxiety and fear. You can avoid this by bringing in the dog as a puppy and exposing them to different social situations. You can tackle this with training and by taking them to doggy daycare and off-leash dog parks where they can learn to be in packs and interact freely with others through the help of trainers. Training Dogs are intelligent by nature. They can learn and unlearn many concepts, but you must be conscious of your chosen teaching approach. The proper training can influence positive behaviors in them and curtail aggression. Conversely, a lack of adequate and responsible training can encourage aggressive behaviors. They are protective if they think someone is trying to hurt their parents or puppies or invade their territory. Your boxer is being protective when: They react to and focus on new changes like sounds and sights in the environment. Bark at perceived threats. Stand in between you and the perceived threat. Maintain their usual composure when the threat turns out to be harmless. On the contrary, they are aggressive when they: Bark continuously even after a perceived threat is averted. Growl and display their teeth aggressively. Assume a rigid and battle-ready posture. Display readiness to advance toward the threat. Identifying these signs can help prevent them from going wild on strangers, other animals, and family members. The signs include the following: Raised furs. They are known for being very loyal, and that can sometimes turn into aggression. If you are worried that your Boxer may become aggressive or if there are already signs of aggression, there are some things you can do to correct the behavior and help make your Boxer a loving pet. Can Boxers be aggressive? Boxers can be aggressive, but if they are bought from a legitimate breeder and are raised, socialized, and trained properly, they are not likely to be aggressive. Past negative experiences, lack of exercise, and feeling threatened can manifest in aggression, though these issues are easily corrected. If you are considering getting a Boxer and want to know if he or she could become aggressive, be sure to read on to learn more. Poor Breeding Some dogs are bred from animals that are aggressive or have genes that make them more likely to be aggressive. There are also certain health problems that can make a Boxer more likely to become aggressive. Lack of Socialization Dogs that have not been properly socialized with people, children, or animals may become aggressive out of fear or if they are territorial. Lack of Training Some dogs need to be trained to keep their aggression at bay and to learn how to act in certain situations and with new people. If a Boxer is not trained properly, he could become aggressive in new situations and around new people. They may guard their toys, bed, and even people. They can also have food-aggression issues. This problem is known as resource guarding and is a natural reaction in some dogs or can be something they develop over time if they are not cared for properly. Unneutered Male Males are more likely to become aggressive than females, especially if they are unneutered. Boxers that show signs of aggression typically become less aggressive after they are neutered. Past Trauma or Negative Experiences Dogs that have been abused or have had past trauma and negative experiences may become aggressive in situations that remind them of these experiences. Female-Female Aggression Many Boxer females can become aggressive when other females are around. This is especially true if the female is in heat, has puppies, or is pregnant. Overly Protective Nature Boxers are guard dogs, and they tend to be overprotective by nature. This can something show up as aggression if they feel that their family or they themselves are being threatened. High Prey Drive Boxers have a high prey drive, and this can cause them to see smaller dogs, cats, and other animals as prey and act aggressively toward them. This can usually be resolved with proper training. How To Stop Boxer Aggression If your Boxer is showing signs of aggression, the sooner you intervene, the more likely you are to stop the behavior before it gets out of hand. Here are some tips that can help. Create a Safe Place Make sure your dog feels safe. Many dogs show aggression out of fear and confusion. Talk calmly to your dog when he starts to show signs of aggression to distract and calm him. Instead, redirect him and offer positive reinforcement to help keep him calm and let him know his calm behavior is rewarded. Make an appointment with your veterinarian to have a health problem ruled out or treated. Socialize Them Proper socialization is important for every dog breed and especially Boxers. Make sure your dog has plenty of socialization with other pets, animals, and people. You can find trainers who specialize in dealing with aggressive behavior and can help you correct it. As opposed to a costly lawsuit should your dog attack someone, hiring a professional will be money well spent. Your Boxer likely stares at you because he wants to anticipate what you will do next so he can go with you. Boxers bond with their owners quickly, and your Boxer may want to be by your side at all times. If your Boxer is older, he may be staring at you due to vision problems or another disorder. Are Boxers Good With Cats? Boxers can be good with cats as long as they are introduced to them early in life and have plenty of time to socialize with them. When you introduce your Boxer to a cat, always monitor them closely to make sure they get along. Conclusion Boxers are great dogs and make great family pets. They can, however, be aggressive if they are not properly trained and socialized. Related Posts:. No breed description will describe all boxers or will even accurately and totally describe one. However, some traits do apply to many boxers. Boxers tend to be silly, playful dogs who act like puppies for much of their lives. They are clownish dogs who seem to take particular delight in making their human family laugh at their antics. However, their puppy-like behavior is not always a source of amusement for everyone. Boxers love to be with people — as much as possible and as close as possible. They are not an aloof or independent breed. Their social nature and their typically high energy level make them well-suited to joining in family activities. If your boxer needs to be home alone for many hours each day, he will likely need plenty of exercise and mental stimulation when you are home to keep him happy. Boxers cannot be left outside unattended without access to the indoors for any considerable length of time. Not only are they intolerant to heat and cold, but they also have been known to escape yards in an attempt to find their people. Boxers are family dogs in both their social nature and their physical needs. Boxers have a reputation for enjoying the company of children, and, indeed, many of them are quite tolerant around children. Boxers are large and bouncy and are not always the best judges of their size and strength, so special care should be taken with an exuberant boxer around small children. Always keep in mind that rescue dogs often have unknown histories, so it is a good idea to take extra precautions with any rescue dog, including boxers, around young children. Many boxers enjoy playing with other dogs, but their rough style of play and method of approach may be off-putting. Many boxers are selective about which dogs they want to be around, so introductions to new dogs should generally be controlled. Although boxers are not typically an aggressive breed, their enthusiasm and forwardness can escalate into reactive behavior or can trigger undesired responses from other dogs who do not understand them. Boxers are strong, can be stubborn, and can pull hard on their leash if they want something! A boxer is a joyous, funny, athletic dog who loves nothing more than being part of the family. However, boxers are not for everyone. Boxers require special consideration when it comes to the amount of exercise and activity they need, their social nature, their limitations in warm or cold climates, and their often-expensive veterinary care. Most purebred dogs that end up in shelters find themselves there because their people did not like the things about them that were, in fact, typical of their breed. The same traits that make boxers so much fun for one person may make them challenging or frustrating for another. Do your research, and if possible, spend time with some boxers before deciding if the breed is right for you.

Following the Labrador feeding chart by age will give you a rough idea of how much to feed your puppy. Labradors are known for their playfulness, and sweet disposition, and are good at fetch which is why you should provide them with the best nutrition to support their growth. Ensure that the food contains the right amounts of protein, carbs, fat, and vitamins. You should avoid feeding your Labrador puppy too much food as they are prone to joint issues, but also avoid feeding them less food as they will be malnourished and not reach their growth milestones. Continue reading to understand how much to feed a Labrador puppy. The amount of food that your Labrador puppy should eat depends on a combination of certain factors such as activity level, weight, type, and brand of food. Heavier and bigger puppies need to eat more food than smaller puppies, and dogs that have active lives will need more calories than those living sedentary life. Fortunately, all dog food contains a feeding guideline on the packaging to get you started. It is important that you create and maintain a feeding schedule for your puppy so that they can maintain a healthy weight and develop good habits. Consult your pet nutritionist or vet, to learn more about how much food you should give your specific Labrador. Labrador Feeding Chart By Age A Labrador can be fed between one and six cups of food depending on their level of activity, age, and type of food. The amount will differ from one puppy to the other as every puppy has there own requirements. Therefore, you should follow a feeding guideline that is indicated in the dog food brands or the one designed by your vet. As a Labrador owner, it is important to understand that the nutritional requirements of your puppy are different at each stage as they grow. Therefore, adult and puppy dogs should be trained to eat the correct amount at the right schedule. Ensure that you keep a Labrador puppy feeding chart with you. Calculating the Resting Energy Requirement RER of your puppy and doubling it can help you get the right number of calories to feed them. Feed your puppy a little amount, in the beginning, to ensure that they are ready to eat. If they are not ready, do not force the food on them. Be patient with your puppy and they will be on puppy food soon. The puppy will be relying less on the milk. When your puppy starts eating all the food you offer them, you can reduce the amount of water and increase the food amount. The puppy will start becoming active and start exploring away from the mother as they no longer rely on the mother. By the end of the week into week seven, the puppy will be able to eat just puppy food. Ensure that you feed them dry food that is full of healthy protein. They should be eating three to four times per day and need about 2 cups of food. Avoid free feeding the puppy as it may be hard to know exactly how much they are eating. Create a feeding schedule as early as possible and this will help them develop good habits in the future. Put the food out for only 10 to 15 minutes and take the bowl away if they do not finish. This can be tricky if you are working but it is important that you maintain their feeding schedule as this is a developmental stage. Three meals per day will help your growing puppy develop their digestive system and ensure that they are getting their nutrition. This is also the beginning of the teething stage and they will be biting a lot of things including hard dog food and chew toys. They should eat about two cups of food distributed over three meals. But you should still maintain feeding them two cups of food but can reduce the mealtimes to twice per day. Watch out for the amount of food your puppy eats to avoid them gaining weight. Also, ensure that they are getting enough exercise to burn off the food. So, you should transition them to adult food. Ensure that the switching process is done slowly to avoid causing vomiting and diarrhea to your puppy. Your Labrador can be fed once per day now and the amount reduced to about two cups of food. Understanding Labrador Puppy Nutritional Needs If you stick to feeding your Labrador high-quality food, be assured that they are getting all the necessary nutrients. However, it is useful to know the types of nutrients that they need and the ingredients to watch out for. Carbohydrates — healthy carbs are necessary for providing energy for your puppy. Sources like barley, rice, and oatmeal are great. Healthy carbs can also be found in veggies such as sweet potatoes, peas, and lentils. Fiber — it helps regulate the digestive system of your puppy and helps the stool become healthier and firm. Sources include spinach, chicory root, and beet pulp. Sources include fish oils, fish, canola oils, and fish. Vitamins and Minerals — are needed for improving the immune system which helps in protecting your puppy from diseases. Veggies and real fruits like cranberries and blueberries are great sources. The frequency of feeding your Labrador depends mostly on their age. Puppies need to eat three to four times per day while senior and adult Labradors can eat one to two times per day. Labrador is a breed that is motivated by food, meaning that the chance of them turning down food is low. Given their nature, it can be difficult to figure out whether they are really hungry or just food obsessed. Since they cannot regulate their eating habits, it is important that you develop a feeding schedule to prevent them from gaining weight. Both types of food provide your dog with the best nutrition they need to grow and develop. Also, check the label on the packaging and make sure that it contains the perfect balance of protein, fats, and carbohydrates. Kibble is cheaper than wet foods and stores easily as it does not require refrigeration. It also helps clean the teeth by removing tartar and buildup when your puppy chews it. Wet food also provides balanced and complete nutrition for your Labrador. It provides more hydration to your puppy as it contains high moisture content. However, wet food needs to be put in the fridge once opened otherwise it will go bad. Some dog owners mix wet food and kibble to give their dogs the best of both worlds. Therefore, most premium dog food brands have different specially formulated puppy food. Puppies can be fed with puppy food until they are about 12 to 15 months old then transition to adult dog food. When transitioning your dog from puppy food to adult dog food remember to introduce the feed gradually for about seven to ten days by mixing small amounts of the adult dog food with the puppy food. Decrease the puppy food gradually every day with a simultaneous increase in adult dog food. This will helps the pup o adjust to the new meal easily. Experienced Labrador Retriever owners will tell you that not all puppies eat a lot. Studies also have indicated that puppies eat more when fed with other puppies or in a group. When the puppy gets to a new home, they might go off the food for the first few days. They might eat a few kibbles and then leave it. Your puppy may also prefer to eat from your hand and not the bowl. However, call your vet if your puppy refuses to eat for more than four hours. Call immediately if your puppy looks unwell. There are a few reasons you need to keep an eye on because they indicate serious problems: Your pup neither drink nor eat Diarrhea. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. As we all know too well, what we put in our belly has a huge impact on our health, vitality, length and quality of life. They have to strike a fine balance between getting enough nutrients to grow and avoiding an over-abundance that can lead to abnormal growth and disabling conditions. In this article you will learn precisely how to feed your puppy. What they can eat, what they should not, how many times you should feed them each day, basic information on home-made diets and the pros and cons of various commercial dog foods. The majority of Labrador owners feed their puppy kibble. Kibble is ground meal, shaped into dried biscuit-like pellets that are extremely convenient to buy, store and feed, providing everything a puppy needs in one easy to handle product. All the major brands carry a range of kibble and many are specifically formulated to suit the precise needs of puppies. For our recommendations of the best puppy food for labs, please read our article on: The Best Food for Labrador Puppies. Good breeders will supply you with all the information you need to feed your new puppy and you should follow this advice. Puppies almost always get upset tummies during a change of diet. The stress of moving to a new home is enough to deal with without them potentially having tummy upset on top. So try to avoid this. But expect your puppy to get diarrhea after such a sudden change. What Can Puppies Eat? With a bewildering choice of different puppy foods available, what to feed your puppy may not be the easiest decision to make. You Can Feed Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is ground up food, formed into pellets and dried for easy storage and convenience. It is a specially formulated, complete and balanced diet, containing everything a puppy needs to grow and be healthy. Many people believe kibble is the best way to feed a puppy, with it being so easy to buy, store and feed while containing every nutrient a puppy needs in the right proportions. Wet, Complete Puppy Foods Are An Option As the name suggests, complete wet dog food is complete and balanced, meaning nothing should be fed in combination. Everything needed is included in this one food. Complete wet foods come in individual pouches or tins with one pouch or tin containing one single serving. In the main these foods are low in nutrition, contain a high amount of cheap fillers, by-products and water and need mixing with a biscuit to give them some substance and to make them more complete. Because the food is such low quality, you have to feed a lot of it. And what goes in, must come out. This type of feeding was popular decades ago and I do remember my parents feeding our first dogs this way, but most people have moved on from this and are feeding their dogs in better ways now. Raw Food, BARF And Home-Made Diets Raw feeding is a diet that consists of mostly raw meat, edible bones and animal organs, though most practitioners also mix in small portions of fruit, veg and selected other foodstuffs. There are many people feel strongly that this is the best possible way to feed a dog. But I would caution most people that to feed this diet successfully, you need to do A LOT of research, gain a lot of knowledge and truly understand a dogs nutritional needs to make sure they get exactly what they need in the right amounts. Many people wonder if they can feed their puppy human foods, anything found in the fridge or larder. Furthermore, there are many human foods that are toxic to dogs that you should avoid at all costs. Too much of some nutrients can be bad in itself, but also prevent the absorption and use of other nutrients too. So supplementing a balanced diet is a bad thing to do. Can You Give Puppies Milk? Assuming you get your puppy at the recommended 8 weeks, they will have been fully weaned before you bring them home. Many puppies are intolerant of cows milk and drinking it leads to an upset tummy and diarrhea so you would do best to avoid giving your puppy any milk at all. One exception is for very young puppies under 6 weeks of age. When we have newborn puppies at our house we sometimes need to supplement and use Esbilac Milk Supplemen t. However, if you have a very young puppy that you think may need supplementing please first consult with your veterinarian. Are They Necessary? You will likely be feeding your puppy a commercially available complete and balanced dog food, in which case you certainly should not supplement their food. Supplementing this will mean too much of one or more things, making it unbalanced which can actually lead to harm. But an excess amount of calcium in the diet of a Lab puppy can lead to skeletal development problems. So adding a calcium supplement to an already complete diet can actually do more harm than good. There may also be times your vet advises you to do so. But if feeding raw, you should know more about nutrition than I do. This is a hard question to answer and sadly I cannot give you a definite quantity or weight to feed them each day. Puppies grow at different rates, some are more active than others and there can be large differences between metabolisms too. However… The biggest determining factor is how concentrated the nutrients and calories are in the brand of food you feed them. High quality foods are nutrient rich and give a puppy all they need from quite small amounts of food. But cheaper brands are full of low quality and nutritionally empty fillers that mean a puppy needs considerably more to get what they need. Start by feeding your puppy according to the guidelines on the label of the puppy food you buy for them. Then see how their body develops. Puppies should not be fat! But at the other end of the scale if they start to look and feel a little slim, up their portion sizes a little. The guidelines on the food you buy are just that…guidelines. You might also be interested in:. Made with real meat and no artificial colors or flavors how much should a lab eat? Allergies Labs can also have allergies. Some dogs may be allergic to wheat, macadamia nuts, etc. It can manifest as a runny nose, high volumes of shedding, rashes on the skin, and so on. Different dietary needs are crucial, especially if they display allergy symptoms. Avoid all types of human foods. You can give your lab puppy supplements You can get great quality adult dog food and puppy kibble from companies like Royal Canin Labrador Retriever, Blue Buffalo, Canidae Grain-Free, etc. Only adult food must be given to labrador retrievers who have crossed 1. Your puppy needs 4 small meals consisting of half a cup of food per meal till he is 2 months old. From 2 to 6 months, he needs 3 meals daily consisting of 1 cup of food per meal. From 6 months onwards , you can give your puppy 2 meals daily of 2 cups of dog food per meal. Is This A Problem? Yes, this is a major problem! Fat dogs are adorable but also extremely unhealthy. An adult labrador retriever should weigh at most pounds. Labs that are fatter than this stand at the risk of obesity, arthritis , and other lifelong diseases. Refrain from feeding your labrador too many dog treats. Onions and garlic: surprisingly, anything in the onion and garlic family is incredibly toxic to dogs. Meat with bones: if not chewed properly, sharp edges can rupture the throat, stomach lining, intestines, and other parts of the digestive tract. Other human foods and beverages to avoid giving your dog are alcohol, sugar, citric fruits, and anything with caffeine. Your labrador retriever should weigh between 55 to 70 pounds at full adulthood. Male labs are heavier than female labs, so they can fall on either side of the optimal weight spectrum. Some healthy treats for your labrador retriever are cut fruits and vegetables. Carrots, celery, cucumber, beetroot, apples, bananas, and berries strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, cranberries, etc. Dogs also love peanut butter! Veggies dipped in peanut butter also make a great snack for your dog. This is entirely up to you as dog owners. If you have the time and patience to cook meals for your dog, go for it. Store-bought food is easier and is filled with the right nutritional requirements for your lab puppy. On the other hand, with the right recipe, home-cooked food works, too. What Should I Do? A dog growling at you when you go near his food bowl is most commonly a trauma response or a way to protect his food. We often see this with rescues. House training your lab puppy is equally important to avoid food aggression. Labrador Retrievers get piddly after their meals. Dog owners must take out their lab puppy as frequently as they eat sometimes even more often to let their energy out and adult labradors less frequently. A lab puppy needs a ton of exercise. The amount of kibble you should feed your Labrador puppy will vary depending on their age, weight, and activity level. A good rule of thumb is to start with cups of kibble daily and adjust as needed. Best Dog Food For Lab Puppies: The best dog foods for lab puppies include those that are high in protein and low in fillers. The food you should feed a black lab puppy is the same as for any other Labrador puppy. A chocolate lab puppy should be fed the same food as for any other Labrador puppy. A 2-year-old chocolate lab should eat about cups of kibble daily. You should stop feeding puppy food to your Labrador at around months of age. At this point, their growth plates will have closed, and they will no longer need the extra nutrients found in puppy food. Labradors live for years. They start to slow down around 7 and may develop some health problems in their senior years. You should also increase their exercise level. Lab breeders feed their dogs high-quality dog food specifically formulated for large-breed puppies. A lab puppy should drink about 1 ounce of water per pound of body weight daily. This amount may increase as they get older and more active. A labrador needs at least 30 minutes of exercise per day. This can be a combination of walking, running, and playing. Golden labs live for years. Chocolate labs live for years same like labs of any color. Labradors lose their baby teeth between 3 and 6 months of age. You can start to transition your puppy to eating twice a day at around 6 months of age. By the time they are 1 year old, they should eat only once daily. You should stop feeding your large breed puppy food at around 18 months of age. Why Are Labs So Hungry? Labradors are a very active breed of dog, and they need a lot of calories to fuel their energy levels. They are also prone to gaining weight, so keep a close eye on their food intake About The Author Shradha Kabra Shradha is a seasoned writer at Labradorandyou. Her experience as a pet owner and dog enthusiast drives her to create meticulously researched and fact-checked content, offering valuable insights on Labrador training, grooming, and health. Each article reflects Shradha's passion and dedication, enriched by personal experiences with her beloved Labradors, Tom, and Kurt. Whether exploring breed-specific training techniques or providing product reviews, Shradha ensures Labrador owners receive the most accurate, up-to-date, and trustworthy information, aimed at enhancing their companions' health and happiness. Remember, Labs do not have a natural food intake regulator so you will need to monitor them with portion control. Using a cheaper brand is a poor option at half the price. You will use twice as much and you will have to clean up larger amounts of waste in your yard. To allow for an accurate control of body weight and growth rate, this amount of food can be dispensed over 3 meals per day. After 5 months of age, the feeding regularity can be reduced to two meals per day with the commensurate increase in food quantity. The amount of food a Labrador puppy requires will increase then level out during first 14 months of their life. At months, their bone density is increasing and their growth plates are set. We do not recommend desexing you pup until at least 3 years of age. This allows for an appropriate development and supply of hormone which in turn produces proper bone, muscle and vital organ development. Table foods dispensed randomly to dogs are not nutritionally balanced. We do not offer our dogs table food at all. There will be no problems if you are feeding a puppy with a homemade diet but it should be prepared from prescribed recipes that are nutritionally complete and balanced. Diets consisting of an unplanned and indiscriminate mixture of human foods particularly including carbohydrates will likely result in obesity and even dietary-induced disease. When you Lab reaches 14months of age, it should be given an adult food that contains less energy and calcium. This will decrease the risk of obesity and orthopaedic conditions. And do not feed them coffee or tea as they can contain caffeine, theobromine, and theophylline. These toxic substances can dangerously affect the heart and nervous system. Onions, garlic, raisins and grapes can be severely toxic in labradors. Raw meat is potential source of parasites and pathogenic bacteria for your puppy. Eggs yokes are an excellent source of protein. Raw eggs contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin a B vitamin. This can, in extreme cease, lead to skin and coat problems. Liver contains higher levels of protein, fats, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins. Raw liver can be a source of parasites and pathogenic bacteria. Excessive amounts of liver can cause Vitamin A toxicity. Raw bone chewing will control tartar buildup on a pups teeth. However, bone chewing can cause intestinal blockages and perforations. Never use cooked bones. Commercial Puppy Foods Most commercial puppy foods are designated for small, medium, large and giant breeds. This designation can be found on the label. Puppies of medium sized breeds are less than '25 kg fully grown adult body weight'. A full grown and lean Labrador will usually weigh between 25kg and 45kg. We feed our dogs at the 'lower' level of the recommended range. The 'Hills Body Fat Index' is a very helpful body shape indicator. The same food as the bitch You should feed your new puppy with the same brand of food as the bitch received during lactation. From 2 weeks into pregnancy, our expectant mothers are fed 'Royal Canin Labrador Puppy' food. Introducing a new brand of food If you are wanting to introduce a new brand of food to your puppy, then blend it gradually with the existing brand in increasing amounts over 3 days. This should prevent food rejection and any kind of gastric upset. It is best to choose a diet designed for large breed puppies. Selected commercial feeds should contain a limited percentage of filler compounds. Pawlinglabs uses Royal Canin Labrador as our preferred option. Growing labradors Labrador pups have a very steep growth curve, and their total daily energy needs do increase as they grow. Calculate the amount of puppy food that will satisfy that need. The feeding guidelines on the commercial pet food label provides an estimated quantity of feed for several different ranges in body size. These instructions will give you an estimated starting point for the particular brand. Medium or large? Medium breeds should be transitioned to an adult diet by 12 months of age, while large breeds between 14 — 18 months of age. Mature female labradors are medium and weight approx kg. Mature males are large and weight approx kg. Their calcium and energy content should not exceed that level recommended by a registered nutritionalist. Sound skeletal development Sound skeletal development in labradors is produced by the interaction of genetic, environmental, and nutritional factors. The phase prior to weaning and the growth phase, up to 14 months are integral to sound skeletal structure. Don't take your young pup on extended distance walks and certainly not 'running' until at least 18mths of age. You must avoid stairs and slippery floors for the same reasons. Their growth plates are set at about mths of age. Feeding and Overfeeding Large breeds like Labradors are the most susceptible to skeletal disease. Feed consumption, nutrients balance and feeding methods influence our ability to produce sound skeletal development and eliminate skeletal disease. Appropriate food consumption and nutrition plays a critical role in bone development. Overfeeding will not increase or benefit the growth rate of young and growing labrador puppies. And it does not correlate with optimal adult size. However, it does increase the risk of skeletal abnormalities. The vast majority of skeletal disorders occur in large breeds including labradors and they are associated with consumption of table food and an excessive intake of a commercial food and supplementation. The large breeds like labradors are limited in their ability to cope with an excess of minerals such as calcium. The result of this over consumption is abnormal bone development and skeletal disorders. Nutritional management will be critical in the to prevention of bone and joint diseases. In most cases, skeletal disease can prevented by appropriate quantities of feed in a regulated diet with optimal nutrient levels. A complete and balanced commercial diet is essential. Dietary deficiencies will be of little concern if your labrador pup is fed with a complete and balanced commercial diet. Brands like Eukanuba and Royal Canin are specifically formulated for young, growing labradors. There is real potential for harm by over feeding and giving additional supplementation. Housing safety and activity levels Housing safety and activity levels are under the your influence. Nutrition is also under your control and it is the single most important factor affecting the development of the musculoskeletal system. Energy, protein, and calcium are the critical nutritional components affecting skeletal development. However, if they are given in excess, they will be detrimental to normal bone and joint growth. Most pet owners feed commercial dog food. These prepared diets are balanced and complete. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. The source of protein matters when considering a high-quality diet. FATS The rest of the diet should be made up of fats, carbs, and vitamins. Labs need to have a correct protein -to-fat ratio, where protein takes the lead. Dogs tend to convert fat into glucose, so this is an important source of energy. Dogs rely mostly on protein and fats, but carbs are necessary. That said, a low carb diet is best for puppies. However, you still need the right percentage of carbs, since this gives your dog the sensation of being full. These include starches, fibers, and sugars. Try to opt for more complex carbs like starchy grain and veggies because these are easier to digest. Your Lab puppy will thrive when his or her diet includes: Vitamin B12 especially during puppy development , Vitamins A and E, C, Vitamin D, phosphorus, and calcium, Potassium Each of these required vitamins and minerals contributes to a healthy, happy, and energetic puppy. They also help offset issues like obesity. Vitamins A and E are important because they help your dog burn calories and promote eye and skin health. Vitamin D, calcium, and phosphorus, on the other hand, are part of a trifecta that works to strengthen teeth and bones. Potassium is a heart health-preserver. Labs with poor genetics are especially prone to orthopedic issues. Osteoarthritis and hip dysplasia are common health problems for this breed. Glucosamine, an amino-sugar, together with chondroitin sulfate, helps replace and support naturally degrading cartilage during old age. Recently,"grain-free" foods are being championed as a preferred and even high-quality form of dog food. That's, not the whole story. An investigation launched by the FDA revealed that there are potential links between a form of canine heart disease and grain-free foods. So far, researchers have provided an update to this researchers have provided an update to this research staring that the issue may not just be grain-free diets. Grain-free may be part of other trends knows as "BEG"- boutique companies. Puppy diets don't' need to be complicated. They also don't need to include ingredients that humans might enjoy. Enjoyment doesn't necessarily bring any nutritional value to your puppy's development. Keep it simple, using the guidelines for fats, proteins, and carbs above and don't shy away from food with grains in them. It's not their presence that's a problem it's often the ratio. There shouldn't be more carbs or grains than protein. Nor does including only legumes, seeds, lentils, or chickpeas as the primary ingredients make the food more superior. It's perfectly healthy to include complex carb sources like starchy rice and other grains. Grain-free isn't and shouldn't be a qualifying factor for your choice in puppy food. Feeding Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is dried, pelleted food that stores well is easy to eat, and is pre-formulated with everything your puppy needs to thrive and grow in his early developmental months. There are plenty of popular brands that don't measure up to the Snowy Pines standard. That's why it's so vital for you to learn how to read puppy food labels. Puppies should stick with "puppy stage" food, while adults should stick to bags marked "adults. Instead, your dog should have regular bowel movements, allowing them to absorb all the nutrients available. You should also keep in mind that caloric intake is calculated a little differently for puppies. Kibble diets are measured by how many calories the proteins, fats, and carbs represent for each gram. For puppies, this should be 3. Sticking to these ratios will help ensure your kibble choice is a healthy one. It's also important to note that kibble calories are often higher when compared to wet food. If it's high-quality wet food, it won't have as much fat to preserve it, which means fewer calories. You may have to supplement with dry food, especially if you're trying to keep the calories of carbs, proteins, and fats in the right per-gram ratio. Table scraps and snacks There are so many different brands of Labrador food available! And so many different opinions on dog food generally. Not to mention the alternatives to commercial food. Labrador Feeding Guide The amount you feed your Lab will vary depending on his age and the type of food you are giving him. The Eukanuba Adult Breed Lamb and Rice food suggests these serving sizes: 40 — 45 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 50 — 55 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 60 — 65 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 70 — 75 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 80 — 85 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 90 — 95 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day However, these serving sizes will change depending on the food you use, and only apply to dry kibble! Most experts agree that the best food for any dog is one that keeps him in excellent health at a reasonable price. And choosing the best dog food for Labradors is not straightforward. We will look at the different styles of feeding first. How to feed a Labrador — different methods There are currently two very different approaches to dog feeding that are popular with many Labrador owners. Both methods of feeding have their supporters and detractors. At one time a lot of dogs were fed on canned food with an added biscuit mixer. Nowadays, only a small number of dog owners still feed this way. What about BARF? At one time, raw feeding or what you probably know as the BARF diet was considered to be a cranky and extremist fad. But as interest in raw feeding has grown and more dogs are fed this way, it is becoming clear that they are thriving too. The majority of dogs are now being fed kibble and a substantial and the growing minority are fed raw. Labrador dog food choices — dry kibble By far the majority of Labrador owners nowadays, feed their dogs on kibble. That is the dried pellets of dog food that you can buy in pet stores and online. All major pet food companies now supply a dried version of their brands. Is kibble good for dogs? It is really only a very short time a couple of decades since almost all dogs were fed on canned meat. These are a lot less popular now. The effect that this shift away from wet food and onto dried food, has had if any on canine health remain the subject of intense speculation. Busy modern homes are pressed for time these days. So convenience is an important factor. Storage Not only is kibble convenient, it also stores well, even after opening. Provided that it is stored in an appropriate container and kept in a dry place. Most dogs nowadays are trained with food. But what comes out of a kibble-fed dog smells very unpleasant. These are additional bulking agents that are not fully digested and that pass through straight through the dog. These fillers mean that kibble fed dogs produce much greater quantities of poop and much smellier poop, than dogs fed on raw meat and bones. Kibble fed dogs may also need their teeth cleaning on a daily basis. There may also be a small increased risk of bloat in susceptible dogs fed on a dry food diet. Should I feed my dog raw meat? Over the last ten years a more natural raw diet of meat and bones has become increasingly popular. Some people now believe that raw meat is the best food for Labrador Retrievers and many other breeds of dog. This is despite some websites giving out dire warnings of the dangers of letting dogs consume bones. Unfortunately, raw feeding does seem to attract a few extremists. Plus, it can be tricky to find objective and unbiased discussions of the pros and cons of raw feeding on the internet. The pros and cons Raw feeding is quite a big topic. It is both complicated and simple. Complicated because we tend to worry about the nutrients our dogs are getting. Raw feeding is not as convenient as kibble feeding, It requires plenty of freezer and refrigeration space, a designated preparation surface, and good meat preparation hygiene. Just as with meat preparation for people. Small puppies are growing fast and are vulnerable to diets with a poor nutrient balance. It is very important you do your research before attempting to raw feed a small puppy. This is because raw fed dogs get messy. It is hard in this situation to keep raw meat juices containing pathogens, away from children too small to understand the importance of hand washing The important fact here is that there is no right way to feed a dog. Your family needs to be considered as a whole. The feeding method you choose needs to fit in to your lifestyle and current circumstances. I fed raw to my dogs for many years. But I did not do this and could not have done this, when my kids were little. Nowadays, I sometimes feed kibble, if circumstances demand it. But prefer to feed raw whenever I can. Remember, many dogs thrive on kibble, and many dogs thrive on raw. Choosing the best dog food for Labs may also depend on your own circumstances. If you have a small puppy you may be happier feeding kibble With children under five, it may be safer for you to feed kibble If your dog has a close relative that has suffered from bloat, he may be safer eating raw If your dog suffers from allergies, he might do better on raw Now may be the right time to feed raw for you, or it may be the right time to feed kibble. Your circumstances are unique so only you can decide. For those of you the majority that will be feeding kibble. Choosing the lowest price Labrador food may not necessarily be the cheapest option. As very often, you will need to feed larger quantities of the cheaper food. Biologically appropriate kibble? It is usually a reasonable option to choose a mid-range in terms of cost food and see how your dog gets on with that. If your wallet can stretch to it, we especially like the Orijen brand. Orijen is what my dogs have as training food, and when I am not able to feed them raw. So if you decide to switch brands, do it gradually over the space of a few days by adding a little more of the new food and a little less of the old, each day. How often to feed your Labrador Many dog owners continue to feed their dogs twice a day throughout their lives. Some people feed their dogs once a day after twelve months of age. We do know that there is an association between bloat and large meals. Though this may only apply to kibble Once daily feeding is probably fine if you decide to feed raw meat. But with kibble it may be too much dry food in one go. I recommend that you feed your adult dog morning and evening. How often to feed puppies The amount of food that your Labrador puppy needs to eat each day must be divided into several portions. But it will almost certainly give him diarrhoea and could damage his stomach as kibble swells after drinking. From eight to twelve weeks your puppy will benefit from four meals a day. Breakfast, lunch, tea and supper. Space the meals at least three hours apart to give him chance to digest them properly. And make sure the last meal is a two to three hours before his last trip to the toilet at bedtime. Once your puppy gets to three months old you can divide his daily ration into three portions, and by six months to two. Breakfast and supper. How much to feed a Labrador? Recommended quantities can be found on kibble packaging and these will vary quite widely from brand to brand. They are also often on the high side. If your dog is a little overweight, feed about a third less than recommended for a few days and then re-assess his appearance. Your dog may well need less food than you think. How long should a dog take to eat his dinner? I prefer my dogs to eat their meals up fairly quickly. Plus, he will eat more enthusiastically at the next meal if he is a little hungry. How to feed a Labrador slowly A much more common problem in Labradors, is the dog that scoffs his dinner in a heartbeat and then begs for more with pleading eyes. There is an association between bloat and rapid eating, so if you can slow down your dog a little, it is probably good thing. The best way to do that is by using a slow feed bowl. Provided there is nothing in there which is unsuitable. Giving leftovers to puppies Puppies need a very well balanced diet to grow up strong and healthy. Unless you are a very experienced dog owner and knowledgable about nutrition and the dietary needs of a growing animal, it is not a good idea to feed your puppy on household scraps. And complete puppy foods contain all the nutrients your pup needs to develop a healthy body. Dog feeding equipment and storage There is a huge choice of feeding bowls available. You can get some very cheap and colorful plastic bowls. I like stainless steel. But I admit it is quite noisy to handle and use. And not as pretty as some of the ceramic products. Think carefully before you buy raised bowls as some studies have associated these with bloat. Storing dog food Kibble is for the most part a convenient food source. To keep your food fresh, an airtight container is a better bet. We like the wheeled pet food storage bins and they enable you to move heavy quantities of food around without putting your back out! This slimline version fits nicely in a cupboard. Well worth thinking about, especially if you have several dogs to feed. There are also some gorgeous storage containers now that beg to be put out on display. Feeding Labrador puppies When you first bring your puppy home, your breeder should have provided you with a diet sheet, some food, and plenty of information on feeding Labrador puppies. It is really important to stick with his familiar food for the first few days. Moving home is traumatic enough for an eight week old pup without giving his tummy a shock too. If you have not been given any food or any information on how to feed a puppy then I suggest you call in to your local pet store and buy a small sack of kibble puppy food that is appropriate for his breed and age. Giving water to your Labrador Puppies and older dogs need water available to them at all times during the day. Provided that it is at least an hour since his last meal. Kibble fed dogs drink quite a lot of water, raw fed dogs may drink very little. This is normal. When feeding problems need veterinary help All puppies need regular veterinary check ups and when you take your puppy to the vet for his vaccinations. This is a great time to ask any questions you might have on his diet and welfare generally. All dogs may eat less in very hot weather. But changes in appetite, especially sudden changes, can be a sign that a dog is not well. How often and what time to feed I will show you the best puppy foods, whether dry, wet, or raw, and look at food safety, together with schedules, quantities and even a handy puppy diet chart. Best Puppy Food for Labs The best Labrador puppy food provides a diet that is nutritious, healthy, and tasty. So, what is the best puppy food for your Lab? Puppy kibble or dried food is the most popular option. Kibble is complete and can give a perfectly balanced diet. Puppy kibble and tinned dog meat combined is another common choice among puppy parents. Feeding your Labrador puppy on home cooked food or on a totally raw diet is also possible. Raw puppy food is growing in popularity, and there are pros and cons to raw feeding your puppy. People often feel very strongly that one way of feeding is better than another, and you can always find evidence to support your view. Dog breeders, veterinarians and even nutritionists have their own strong views. The dire consequences they list for not listening to them can have puppy owners very worried. The truth is that there is no good quality evidence showing that kibble is better for the long term health of your dog, or that raw feeding is better. There are risks and benefits to both, and the main thing is to ensure that your dog has good quality food to eat. Puppy kibble suits some better, and raw puppy food is better for others. Puppy Kibble for your Labrador Puppy food made into pellets is called kibble. An airtight plastic container or tin will do the job, although you should make sure it is food grade quality. Puppy kibble is the best way of feeding your Labrador according to most breeders and your veterinarian is most likely to support this method of feeding. Good puppy kibble will contain every nutrient your Labrador puppy needs in order to grow and remain healthy. The kibble pieces will be tasty, good for keeping teeth healthy, and free from additives that can provoke allergies or stomach problems. Labrador puppy kibble only needs to be fed next to water. Puppy kibble from a reputable manufacturer is intended to be a complete and balanced food. But some owners like to mix in canned dog food or even scraps of raw food with kibble. Your puppy is likely to get an upset stomach or to not have the right balance of nutrition when fed this way. Whether you decide to feed only with kibble or you want to mix it up, pick a good dried food manufacturer and stick with them. Feeding your Labrador puppy raw food has its benefits and drawbacks. One of the downsides is that there is a lot to learn. Here is a link to the articles you need to help you decide whether or not raw feeding is for you: Although I like the raw diet for my dogs, most puppies fed kibble go on to have long and healthy lives. Whatever puppy food you choose, the most important thing is portion control. How Much to Feed your Labrador Puppy? People often tell me how much their puppy weighs, and ask how much puppy food they should give him. Your Labrador is particularly at risk if they grow too quickly. The following diet chart is for kibble fed puppies and does not apply to raw fed pups. It gives you an idea of how much to feed your Labrador puppy Lab Puppy Feeding Chart The Lab puppy feeding chart below is only a very rough guide. The quantity of food you need for your puppy will vary depending on your puppy and on the brand of food you are feeding him. Labrador puppy food must be aimed at medium to large breed dogs. Check the pack carefully and look at the dietary charts. Ideally, you want the optimal protein content and the lowest amount of additives. Part of this always comes down to the cost. The healthiest puppy food is usually the most expensive and may not be affordable for some families. The Cost Of Puppy Food Some puppy food brands are more concentrated than and contain a higher proportion of proteins, essential oils, and other nutrients. The absence of these fillers means that you can often feed lower quantities of more costly food, making them less expensive than they first seem. You might also find that cheaper brands make your puppy poop more due to those extra fillers going straight through him. While some brands are beyond the budget of many families, it is usually good to buy a premium brand. High Quality Brands of Puppy Food Some brands of puppy food have developed a reputation for producing a high quality product and have many devoted supporters, including breeders that have fed them to generations of puppies. The best food for Labrador puppies to consume in their first two to four months of life is milk from their mother. This specialised care is usually left to trained breeders or veterinarians, who are knowledgeable in caring for pups with no mother to nurse from. If you have recently brought a Labrador puppy into your family, they are most likely older than 8 weeks, and so have started to eat solid foods. You can do this by mixing some dry food with specially formulated puppy milk to form a soft mixture. You can feed your puppy this mixture three to four times a day. Over time, you can reduce the amount of milk you include in this mixture, until they are at the point where they are happily eating dry foods. Read on to learn how much you should feed a Labrador puppy as they get older. In their four months living with you, and once they are weaned off milk, Labradors are likely to reach almost half their adult weight. They will reach their full adult weight by the time they are 6 to 7 months old. With this rapid growth can come some risks. Labradors can be susceptible to bone growth disorders, like hip dysplasia and joint abnormalities that can start in puppyhood. Once your Lab puppy hits 6 months, their growth begins to slow down. Once puppyhood is over, you can move to feeding your lab twice a day instead of 3 or 4 times. Labs are still very active in their adolescent years, and so should be fed with this in mind. The transition from puppy food to adult food should happen at around 15 months. This is because, being a breed who grows very quickly, you want to ensure that you are feeding them according to their large breed needs. You need to take special care when considering what you should feed your Labrador puppy, as they require different nutrients compared to their adult counterparts. It is also dangerous for a puppy to overeat. Labradors are large breeds, which means they need plenty of nutrients and calories as they grow to ensure they go from being active puppies to healthy adult dogs. Labrador puppies need to eat food that is high in proteins and fats. Carbohydrates are also essential for supporting your active pup. Aside from nutritionally complete dry puppy food, Labrador puppies can benefit from the extra protein that raw meat can provide them with, such as lean beef, turkey, chicken, or fish. The amount of food you give your Labrador is determined by their weight, energy levels, and age. For most adult Labradors, around 1, to 2, calories per day from high quality food sources is ideal. Female Labradors, who tend to be around 5 to 10 kilos lighter than males, may need less food, as will less active dogs. Dogs who need less food, whether they are less active or simply older, will usually still need around 1, to 1, calories per day. You may want to alter the amount of food you are feeding your Labrador based on how calorically dense their food is. Adult Labradors should be fed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. Their daily allotment of food should be split evenly between these two meals. For most dogs, it is recommended that you exercise your dog before meal times to assist with potty training. However, some dogs may benefit from exercise after eating: especially high energy Labs with a lot of energy to burn off. You should also try to give your Labrador a high quality food that is specially designed for large breeds, especially if they are very active. For example, less active senior dogs will need to eat less food as they will not be burning calories as quickly as a lively little puppy will. Senior dogs may benefit from a higher fibre and lower calorie diet. Your dog may also develop chronic or short term medical conditions that require specially formulated food. For example, Labradors can be particularly susceptible to obesity. As a breed, they tend to be one of the most commonly obese dogs in Australia. This is due to several factors, including a genetic predisposition to unhealthy weight gain and a famously large appetite. However, plenty of Labs suffering from obesity are simply overfed and not getting enough exercise. Choosing a low carb diet is crucial to preventing obesity in your Labrador. If you are unsure about what you should feed your Labrador, you should always consult your vet. They will be able to determine if your dog is suffering from any chronic health issues, and they will be able to create a nutritional plan to help keep your dog healthy and happy for many years to come. Wet food for Labradors is often high in protein and fat, and is better at keeping your dog hydrated than other food sources. Chewing on dry food can be especially good for teething Labrador puppies. A raw diet can be a good option for your Labrador as you have more control over the kinds of food and amount of nutrients your pup is consuming. For this reason, raw diets require a lot more work on your part as an owner. Whatever you decide to feed your Labrador, all dogs need a similar ratio of nutrients in their diets. Different dog breeds will need different kinds of nutrient support as they go through the various stages of their life. It can also be easy to overestimate the amount of food your Labrador needs to stay fit and healthy — especially if they are skilled at begging! You need to make sure that your dog is eating the right amount of food for their breed, their size, and activity level. You should also avoid foods that, while delicious for humans, can be harmful or toxic for dogs. Foods like onions, nuts, alcohol, cooked bones, and artificial sweeteners are commonly included in dinners meant for humans, but can cause serious health issues for your Labrador. No matter how old your Lab is, it is important to keep to a consistent feeding schedule. A feeding schedule can help you keep track of any changes in behaviour around food that might signal illness or physiological stress.

View Detail Thunder puppy Thunder is a German Shepherd I'm a puppy AKC registered will have my 1st shot and health certificates my father is of full chezc lines my mother is of chezc and American lines my nickname is Thunder because I like to go under the bed. View Detail German shepherd puppies German shepherd puppies akc certified 1st round shots and dewormed born june 15 contact text at xxxxxxxxxx Buy Now All Black Female German Shepard Puppies 3 cute black fluffy German Shepard pups all female. Both parents are AKC registered. Have papers to show for both parents, this is there second litter. View Detail German shepherd Ace is a friendly and very intelligent dog. He is potty trained. And knows how to play fetch and wait to be let inside the house View Detail German Shepard- A 14 month old Ready for adoption Talion is a little more them 14 months old. She is amazing and unfortunately i cant keep her. She needs a family who can spend lots of time with xxx. She is potty trained,crate trained,knows a few basic commands,and just a all around good pup. She still needs some training but puppies need that. .Txt only xxxxxxxxxx lakeland area xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxx. Good dog, needs room to run. House trained etc.View Detail Puppies looking for their forever home We have 5 girls and 2 boys. Call or text me at xxxxxxxxxx for more pics. View Detail German Shepherd mix puppies Please see the beautiful puppies ready for their forever home. Great temperament, loving babies raised with other dogs and children. Two of the gray cream brindle females have blue eyes. Two brown have a green eyes one boy and one girl. I have a brindle male and brindle female call or text me at xxx-xxx-xxxx View Detail German Shepherd puppy. AKC AKC 8 weeks old German Shepherd puppy one male ready now for loving home he has been potty trained inside and outside he has been playful ready for a new home. He has been dewormed started on puppy shots and had distemper shot location xxx-xxx. Contact by voice at xxx xxx-xxx1. Cash, pick-up only. View Detail German shepherd 6 months old Spayed Microchipped Shot Record Kennel Kiddie pool Needs a large yard View Detail German shepherd 4 month old puppy I have a beautiful full blooded german shepherd female puppy for sell she is 4 month old. My baby is only a few weeks old and she needs a ton of attention and I feel horrible that I can't give that to Lilo any longer. We were currently working on potty training and she does go to the door where we have bells hanging and she'll go ring that when she needs to go out but she does still have accidents in the house so I would suggest getting a bell for your door and continuing that. She is not fully crate trained that is also something we were working on, she does recognize the word as "kennel" and does go in there on her own at times. She will be a BIG girl. Her mother is 4 years old and weighs 80 lbs. Father is 5 years old and weighs lbs. She is great with other dogs, cats and kids of all ages — I know this because we have made it a point to raise her and socialize her with all of the above. The reason we are rehoming her, is because our family is in the medical field nursing , and the covid pandemic has gone on longer than any of us expected with no end in site.We love her dearly and the decision to rehome her did not come easy. It is our love and want for her to have a more fulfilling life that led us to this choice. NO scammers and NO spam!! SERIOUS inquires can text anytime: xxx-xxx-xxxx View Detail Female puppy This is a re homing fee This is a8 months German Shepard and pitbull mix female Price includes cage 2 bags of food and also collar Interested text to xxxxxxxxxx View Detail CKC Male German Shepherd pup Very sweet and smart pure bred German Shepherd only 1 year 2 months he is micro chipped he would be great for someone who is active and has time to play with and walk him daily he is great with kids, is cat friendly, gets along with some dogs mostly females, he loves water and is a great dog to take to the beach provided that he is kept on leash or swimming in the pool, for any questions please ask email is xxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxx. He is a 2 year old pure bred White German Shepherd Dog. He has been trained in Search and Rescue with many successful recovery missions under his furry belt! He has an incredible innate sense about him that just is driven to work, and be with his human all the time. He is the happiest when he is with his humans and working! For this reason we are looking for a home where his talents can be utilized the most. He is ridiculously smart and needs a home where he can 'work' to some degree. He has been loved and trained with me from a young pup. He is now 2 years old, mentally and physically ready for a full working home. He will NOT go to a pet only home where he is sitting around the house waiting on his human to come home from work. He needs to utilize his skills in some form! He needs someone to commit to working him daily, either in training or missions. This boy has my whole heart and I will fulfill my promise to him that he finds the absolute perfect working home. He is an incredibly smart and intuitive boy who will bond instantly with his new handler. Please understand the connection a working dog has with his handler and don't take that lightly. While he will blend well into a family dynamic, his loyalty and trust are with his handler. If you do not meet the criteria, an application will not be considered for this dog. German Shepherd Puppies are lovingly home raised and socialized at our modern 5 acre park like Kennel Facility in Florida Jacksonville. These are just a few words that describe our German shepherds. Life with a German Shepherd is a joy that one must experience to appreciate and understand, and the intelligence of these great dogs must be seen to be believed. AKC Registered Puppies In Lakeland Our dogs have provided countless individuals and families with a loyal pet that has a high aptitude, as well as the ability to provide protection. Each of the German shepherd puppies we have for sale are AKC registered and come from a superior lineage. Notably, our German Shepherds go through rigorous testing to qualify for breeding, as our dogs are bred with top sires that have at least a V or VA show rating. German Shepherds are well known for their character and temperament. Poised and confident, our pups are faithful and intelligent companions. They are also great protection dogs, as many safeguard homes, property or livestock. Our breeding program has earned the the highest level of accomplishments that a kennel in the United States can achieve. All of our German Shepherds come with a written guarantee and have been vet-checked, socialized, vaccinated to date, temperament-tested by a professional dog trainer, and above all, have been very much loved. Our German Shepherds are gorgeous Black and Red color, big boned, and correct structure. This price is determined by the size of the puppy, and includes the flight ticket, pre-flight vet exam, a crate the perfect size for your puppy, and travel to the airport. Every year we hand select dogs to add to our breeding program to improve the breed. Breeding top producing west German Sieger show Line German Shepherds is number one in producing quality German Shepherd puppies for sale. Being a German Shepherd dog breeder requires breeding high quality German Shepherds from some of the top rated German Shepherds in Germany They are superior in health with parents being x-rayed with clear hips and elbows by the OFA or the SV. These German shepherd litters of puppies for sale will make great companion dogs as well as excellent conformation, show and working dogs. Their inclination towards making their masters happy, their mental soundness and their high degree of intelligence have made this dog a successful working dog and masterpiece companion for their owners. Our breeding male shepherds are from top pedigrees. You can also visit us on our Facebook page to see recent news. Visit our website, at any moment you may feel you need more information than what we supply here feel free to Contact Us. Our main goal is to produce dogs that will become very special to you. Contact Us with any questions you have about our puppies or anything else.

Health and breeding information Possible diseases in mixed breeds of German Shepherd and Wolfsspitz. German Shepherds are characterized by their impressive presence and strength and enjoy great popularity among dog lovers. The Wolfsspitz is equally known for its intelligence, courage, and affectionate nature, and scores points for its special friendliness and high adaptability. Together, the combination of these two breeds creates a truly fascinating overall picture. However, mixed breeds of these breeds are not only known for their positive qualities, they can also be prone to or inherit certain diseases. Mixed breeds of German Shepherd and Wolfsspitz tend to have an increased risk of inherited diseases. These include, for example, hip dysplasia HD , a serious malformation of the hip joints that can lead to significant movement restrictions. Other diseases such as osteochondritis dissecans OCD , a degenerative disease of bone and articular cartilage, or atopy, in which allergic reactions of the immune system occur, may be more prevalent in this mix. Environmental factors can further promote these diseases, especially if the dogs are not adequately vaccinated or cared for. It is therefore essential to have such a mixed breed checked regularly by a veterinarian. Early detection and timely treatment of disease symptoms or ailments are of utmost importance. Prevention is critical to prevent health complications in German Shepherd and Wolfsspitz mixes. This includes routine health checks, vaccinations, a balanced diet, adequate exercise and ongoing health monitoring. Anyone owning or considering owning such a mongrel should always be mindful to seek professional advice and assistance to help their four-legged friend live a long and healthy life. What does this mongrel look like? The appearance of the mongrel between a German Shepherd and a Wolfsspitz is a harmonious combination of both breeds. Typically, the coat of this mixed breed presents a medium length and a soft texture. While the dominant shades are mostly black and brown, the color spectrum of this dog may also include shades of red or cream. The texture of the coat varies depending on the genetic heritage of the animal. It can be both smooth and slightly wavy, depending on which genetic traits were inherited more strongly. A characteristic feature of this mongrel is the often longer hair in the head and ear area, which gives the dog a particularly attractive and distinctive appearance. In addition, the mongrel can have a robust stature, marked by the athletic physiognomy of the German Shepherd, combined with the somewhat more compact and fluffy appearance of the Keeshond. His eyes often radiate deep intelligence and curiosity, while his ears can either stand erect or tilt slightly forward, depending on the dominance of his inherited genes. His paws are strong and well padded, giving him good mobility in both urban and rural environments. The tail, which is often carried bushy and high, often swings in a wide arc when pleased or excited. This mongrel displays an impressive fusion of strength, elegance and charm in its overall appearance, making it a real head turner. It should be noted, however, that due to genetic diversity, coat texture and other physical characteristics may vary. In some cases, certain areas of the body may be more densely coated, while other regions may have less fur. This is a fascinating example of the diversity found in the world of mixed breed dogs. Fur length. Both of these dogs can be friendly but personalities differ, so you never know. The German Shepherd is known for being intelligent, curious, and alert. All dogs need proper socialization and that will be a big factor in how they interact with others. What does this mixed breed look and act like? Is it more like the German Shepherd Dog or the Keeshond? Those are the questions we will try and answer below. Continue reading below to see pictures, videos, and learn more about the beautiful German Shepherd Dog Keeshond Mix. While we really recommend that you acquire all animals through a rescue, we understand that some people might go through a breeder to get their German Shepherd Dog Keeshond Mix puppy. If you are interested in helping animal rescues raise money, please play our quiz. Each correct answer donates to help feed shelter animals. We will take a closer look at the history of both parent breeds below. If you are looking at breeders for new, designer dogs please beware of Puppy Mills. If you have a few minutes, please sign our petition to stop puppy mills. Von Stephanitz had in his mind what a good working dog should be and a few generations of breeding fulfilled what Hektor envisioned. Horand von Grafrath is known to be the first German Shepherd Dog. Horand von Grafrath was bred to other similar styled dogs that were believed to have the same traits as what Von Stephanitz was looking for. His most successful offspring was Hektor von Schwaben. Von Stephanitz is widely credited for being the founder of this incredible breed. Von Stephanitz had intended for his breed to work as herding dogs, however, as Germany became more and more industrialized he saw the need to make it working dog. He convinced the German government to use the breed. The breed initially became popular in World War 1. Many American and allied servicemen grew attached to the breed during the war and brought them back to the states after the war was over. The Allied troops fell in love with the breed but not with the fact that it had German roots. It became common for police departments and those looking for true working dogs to import their dogs from Germany because the American dogs had such bad health problems. This is an older breed of dog. It has quite the history. Throughout some political unrest in Holland it was a symbol of the Rebel Party and it quickly became popular among ordinary people. When this party was overthrown many dogs were destroyed but it did manage to hold on. Around the year interest in the breed picked back up and it migrated away from just being on barges and such. It became a recognized breed with the American Kennel Club in

Puppy pads if you adopt a puppy Best Tips To Get Approved for Adoption Reputable rescues will want to do a home visit before they consider you for adoption. Be detailed, accurate, and ready to answer even more questions. You can always check the web for rescue shelters in and close to your state. Tips for First-Time Pet Owners The best way to prepare for your new pet is to do all of the above: get your house ready before your pet arrives. But if you want to know other perks—adopting a rescue is cheaper than getting a dog from a breeder. Conclusion I hope you enjoyed this list of seven rescues in Florida. They give you plenty of options to find the perfect lab to adopt. Please share this article with other dog lovers if you liked it. Leave your thoughts in the comments—we love to hear from our readers! Meet our writer Jen Clifford is an animal behaviorist and veterinary technician with more than a decade of hands-on experience working in small animal and specialty veterinary clinics. We also have two cats so we need a cat friendly dog. The greyhound has bonded with our chocolate so I think we should look for a year old large dog. I am trying to start the information process now as the grey is four years old but, all three other dogs are over years old. Thank you for your help. Especially large breed dogs. Well, this Labrador rescue is exceptionally well respected in the rescue community. They do such a great job of pulling dogs, fostering and rehoming. This rescue is run completely professionally and should be a beacon for other rescues to model best practices by. We have rescued two dogs now from them a yellow lab named Mobi and a black lab named Jimmy they work very hard to make sure that these dogs go to a wonderful home. Jimmy needed some veterinary care and the Lab Rescue took care of everything which was amazing. I highly recommend them to anyone. Got her a 5 months old, and aside from being a little skiddish , a perfect lady. Thanks to Lab Rescue for doing a wonderful job. The people are amazing. Everyone is a volunteer. They save so many beautiful dogs, that otherwise would be destroyed. Sad part is I adopted a lab from this organization over 10 yrs ago and that lab was with my current unaltered lab with no issues at all. It would be appreciated prior to an adoption fee a criteria is provided so that you are better informed in order to apply for an adoption or not. Oh well I guess I can just buy a lab or puppy and start all over again if that is the case. After a few year of my significant other asking to get a dog I finally agreed. His family had adopted a chocolate lab from them back in maggie so I knew this group was going to be able to help us. We put in an application and paid our donation to the group. Within a hour I received a message that I would be getting a call from a counselor who could help me meet up with people who are fostering dogs. This gentleman was main contact. We went over our desires in a future new family member together and he gave us a lovely lady's phone number who happened to be fostering Lola. We talked to her for about an hour she told us to take the night and to think about whether or not we wanted to meet her. I think we took all of 30 minutes before I messaged her and said we would like to meet the pup and when could we meet up? We ended up meeting Lola at her foster house. Before we even got home we both knew she was going to be a part of our family forever. She has exceeded our expectations for a loving new companion. And a wonderful woman that was fostering her has become a new family friend, we share pictures of Lola with her and she shows us her new foster puppies and she's also a wonderful contact when I have questions and concerns. Due to covered being an issue this year most of our family is staying out of town and not able to come home,we donated in their names to this organization and purchased calendars for them as part of their gift for Christmas. The staff has been wonderful working with me making sure everything is sent and the right names are on the right donations. We're proud to have recently found new homes for the these lovable labs. Loading labs.Labs4rescue is proud to be associated with the following organizations Combined Federal Campaign CFC is the world's largest and most successful annual workplace charity campaign, raising millions of dollars each year. To support Labs4rescue, click here and enter our Charity .Animal Charities of America Animal Charities of America ACA is a federation of America's finest national organizations working to protect and enhance the lives of all animals whether farm, domesticated or wild. America's Best Charities Each charity on their site has been carefully screened to ensure every charity listed is a qualified non-profit, provides ongoing program services, and is financially accountable. Mayor's Alliance for NYC's Animals Committed to seeing the day when no New York City dog or cat of reasonable health and temperament is killed merely because he or she does not have a home. About Us Labs4Rescue is a volunteer, c 3 non-profit organization dedicated to providing a new life for rescued or displaced Labrador Retrievers and Labrador Mixes. Our goal is to promote and advance responsible pet ownership. Useful Links.

Their body temperature at birth is around 94 — 97 degrees. They are not able to regulate their own body temperature so they depend on their mother for warmth. They also cannot see or hear or eliminate on their own. They cannot walk. About all they can do is smell, suckle and crawl. They are totally dependent on their mother and the environment the first 2 to 3 weeks. They are mostly influenced by their mother and litter-mates during this period. We weigh the puppies everyday the first 2 to 3 weeks. Week Two: Poodle Puppies usually open their eyes around 8 to 10 days and their ears around 13 to 17 days. While sleeping all healthy and contented puppies will twitch. This is an activated sleep, characterized by muscle twitches. This is normal and healthy. Week Three: During the third week we will often see teeth start to erupt and the puppies will start to stand and walk around. Everyday is amazing to see these helpless puppies start to become independent. At this age their nervous system is more developed so that they can urinate and defecate by themselves. This is when the puppies will also start to play a little bit more with their litter-mates. This week is very important in the puppies emotional development. They will start not only the interaction with their litter-mates but also with their mother. We never start the weaning process during this week. While mother may come out of the whelping box during this week she will never be far. Week Four: At this age the puppies will be introduced to our own homemade puppy mush and their supplement which will help grow their immune systems. Puppies are born without an immune system and depends on their mother to supply this protection through her milk. Their body temperature will usually be around degree and they will be able to begin regulating their own body temperature. Every day they will eat more and more. The puppies will start to eat more food and move around more easily. They may even start to chase each other, bark, and bite. We still weigh them at least every other day if not every day. This is the time that the mother starts leaving the puppies at longer intervals of time and start to regulate their nursing. So this is a good time for us to introduce the puppies to the weaning box and start the weaning and potty box training. Week Five: Puppies start to establish some sort of dominance in the pack. Growth and development is rapid in this week. They become very aware of their surroundings and respond quickly to training. They begin to growl, play, challenge, and learn disciple from their mother. They also develop a bit of a competitive spirit. Training ability is developed and puppies are ready to begin learning. They also start to discover their toys and play with them more. Keeping them stimulated is important. Puppies can start to control their need to potty and now know they need to move away from the sleeping area. Good experience with people from week 5 — 7 will play a large roll in how they will continue to interact. Week Six: By this time it is amazing to see that little puppy wake up and walk over to the potty box to eliminate. Puppies enter their socialization period by the end of the third week. However, the most critical period — age six to eight weeks — is when puppies most easily learn to accept others as part of their family pack. The integrating of the human family is so important and will effect them for the rest of their life. The puppy brain waves look of an adult dog by about the 50th day, but he is not yet programmed — that is the job of the human trainer, and the job of his mom, siblings and other canine family members. This is when the fun begins for all humans and puppies. We know how important this time is for puppy to adjust to humans and how playtime stimulates their little brains to grow smart and wise. We introduce them to the outside. We bring in more interactive toys. We introduce them to the pool, weather permitting. If outside pool is out we use the grooming bath for water play. They also learn not to bite the human hand ever! It is at the 7th week, day 49, that we conduct the Volhard Test. This is actual one of several that will occur through its life. Instead of meeting new or familiar people and objects with curiosity puppies start to react with fearfulness. Anything that frightens them at this age may have a lasting impact. So take care that the baby is not overstimulated with to many changes or challenges at one time. This does not mean that your puppy will grow up to be a scared-y-cat; it is simply a normal part of development where puppies learn to be more cautious. Careful socialization during this period helps counter fear reactions. Because your puppy is actively working on social skills and is paying attention to both litter-mates and humans. Your puppy is learning at an extremely fast rate. This is why we will NOT hold any puppy beyond the 9th weeks. All puppies that cannot be picked up during puppy pickup week must enter their puppy into a training program. Weeks Thirteen — Sixteen: During this phase a puppy will attempt to challenge you for dominance. Here is where they test to see just how much they can get away with and test your level of tolerance. The more a puppy is allowed to get way with during this phase, may cause the dog to lose more and more respect for his owner. This may result in behavioral issues that can snowball if not corrected through training and obedience. Formal obedience should begin here. This will assist the dog in becoming the best he can be. This is the time your puppy will begin to understand and use ranking in terms of submission and dominance. Are you the owner going to be a good pack leader? Puppies will need to be taught what they can and cannot chew. Puppies need to be taught that it is never acceptable behavior to jump on a human, small or big. This is the time that the pack leader, the human in charge, especially needs to be confident, but firm with positive reinforcement. An obedient dog, a good canine citizen, is a pleasure to be with. A disobedient dog causes stress for all and can cause damage to things and other humans. What do I mean by that? The canine depends on a human, however, he is and his thinking is canine. He needs the human to communicate and set the standards for him. If the human does not then the dog will have no choice but set his own standards, doggy style. Be prepared to be a Good, very good, pack leader! Your puppy now understands that he has a pack which may consist of both humans and canine and his behavior will be most influenced by this group. You can expect your dog to challenge you more as he explores dominance and his role in the pack. Rather they are just working out what their rank is in the pack and what is expected of them in their position. Again: be a Good, very good, pack leader! Canines that are not spayed or neutered will also start exhibiting sexual behavior during this period. Be responsible and spay or neuter you canine. Some puppy owners hire a canine trainer to come to their home to teach them how to train. Some owners learn ahead of time what they need to do and immediately begin their puppy on this program. Still others have their puppy enter into our training program. We have much information on the website about training. And for our puppy buyer we are here whenever they need any coaching along the way. Be Consistent, Persistent and always have a Routine! Trim the puppies nails with some small blunt scissors. Puppy's nails can be very sharp and will scratch the Mom's Nipples. Trim their nails every week. By the end of the second week the puppies should be walking with a fair amount of stability. The sharp puppy claws may need to be blunted to avoid injure to the littermates. They are starting to notice noises and when people arrive. Handle the puppies daily and for longer periods. Pups are sure getting larger and larger now. In we have now started to use "Vet Fleece" for our pups and while extremely expensive and time consuming to wash at the coin laundry, sure keeps our pups safe, warm, comfortable, clean and happy. You will never wish to raise another litter without Vet Fleece once you use it!! At this stage it is also appropriate to worm the mom with Strongid T. We do day 14 day 15 and repeat day 25 and 26 mom and pups. Watch pups for signs of Entropion. Eye lid will turn into the eye causing irritation and this will need to be repaired by an experienced Veterinarian at 7 weeks of age or older for the less experienced vet At this time if pups are kept where there is a door opening or closing and a draft, they can get snotty noses appearing to have a cold. This will be deadly if not treated with liquid Clavamox right away!!! The ear canals begin to open. Pups are moved from the smaller whelping box into their Puppy Box. Toilet training starts using the "Bijou Method". As soon as we introduce the pups into the "Puppy Box". At this time the pups are moving around more and will want to naturally eliminate further and further from where they eat and sleep. The "Bijou Method" taps into this natural instinct by providing the room and area for the pups to accomplish this natural instinct, reliably. The "Bijou Method" is accomplished putting the food and water and play area, at one end of the "Puppy Box" and putting papers down the other far end near by the potty area Pups go further from sleeping area and closer to Potty area, eventually using only the Potty area to soil in. By weeks of age, the pups will only use the "Potty" area to toilet in. We keep our puppy box clean, this week only needing to change the potty area daily. Our diligence pays off, when our puppy people tell us that their pups are toilet trained within a few days of coming home. RARE but do keep a feel of mom's nipples to make sure none are hard During weaning. If hard and hot, this could be the beginnings of mastitis. I always have Clavaseptin and or Clavamox pills on hand because as soon as a nipple feels harden, I will pill the mom to avoid Mastitis. Never squeeze or milk that nipple, as that will only encourage milk to come in, and create more problems such as in the photo above. Pups day 14 days The puppies will tolerate changes in temperature better now. However they still need to be kept at an even temperature and away from drafts. Pups are beginning to move away from where they sleep to poo and pee. This is the first step in our process to develop clean pups that start to toilet train. Bijou Poodles feeds our mom and pups RAW. Our mom wishes to no longer nurse at this age, so she rejoins our family and pups wean right onto RAW mixed with RAW unpasteurized Goats milk 3. Our pups have limited sight, but good sense of hearing and smell. They are constantly on the move in the litter area and begin to play and socialize with each other. Now is the time to worm the puppies. Make sure to worm mom at the same time!!! For pups I use a 1cc syringe without needle Some vets will want to use Safeguard but you can't use that on pups under 6 weeks of age!!! Consult your vet when in doubt, or your mentor. Pups day 20 to day .IF you find your pups have bad Diarrhea know the difference between gummy normal puppy poops then you might be experiencing a bout of Coccidia. Giardia is also a common issue breeder's deal with and the cure for that is Safeguard or Panacur Fenbendazole READ labels before you use or consult your Vet. Puppies will start learning socialization and appropriate chewing and biting from both their littermates. Before this time, Mom will really discipline them when they bite her, by growling, holding them down with her paws and for the most stubborn pups she will do a combination of growl, hold and take in her mouth to show that she is really serious. All this happens lightening speed and sounds fierce. People should really take note of this, as when you get puppy home and puppy nips at you, this is unacceptable behaviour and you need to correct this, forcefully and quickly like what their mom did if you wish for this behaviour to stop. Also taking the time to show puppy what is desired behavior so they know what to do to please you. RAW goat's milk not pasteurized , you will find in the health food section of stores. I pour this RAW and goats milk into my metal "flying saucer" puppy dish and pour even more warm goats milk over top. Puppies soon get the 'taste' for RAW and wean fast onto it. I feed my pups that are completely weaned 3x per day starting week 3. I basically feed my pups 4 lbs for 10 puppy litter. Feeding them as much as they will eat Until they walk away full. Until the next feeding. I also leave water out in a "no tip" travel type dish so they don't play in it or tip it over. The puppies will now begin to bark, wag their tails, bit, paw and growl! The puppies should now be up on their feet they are quite wobbly! They can now urinate and defecate without the help of the bitch. The puppies need to be handled frequently after 3 weeks of age and be introduced to various sights and sounds within the household! I do not allow any visitors until puppy pick up day. However if you do, ensure that visitors do not expose the puppies to germs. When this is done right, by the time the buyer purchases the pup, puppy will already be trained to only pee and poop on newspapers and or hold it until they can get outside as they do not pee or poop where they eat or where they sleep. So believe it or not, what goes on from the time of birth to the time you buy the pup plays a big role, on the young life and what a buyer will be faced with. Pups day 28 Ear canals should have completely opened by now. The puppies should be exposed to a variety of noises now. We take "desensitizing" very seriously and we have a program in place, to rotate a variety of startling noises and vibrations, creating normally negative stimulus, following up with a pleasant experience such as play, cuddling or feeding times. Our program, combined with the bio-Sensor program has proven very successful in developing confident, well adjusted puppies. Now the pups are able to toddle about and play and learn also how much pressure they can bite each other with. They will test limits with each other. They will also be subjected to household comings and goings, which will be good for them during their socialization phase. We could not ignore that more dogs of all breeds, have been having reactions and issues on kibble. Since starting on RAW our pups have not had loose stools, healthy GI's and their bladders have been healthier as well and tartar free teeth. We can't deny all the amazing results of being on RAW. At this stage it is also appropriate to worm the bitch with a suitable product. Once the puppies are on solid food the Mom will no longer clean them. We have a separate section in the whelping box that the puppies eventually climb into and use to toilet in. This is the second step in toilet training our puppies. Pups are noisy loud piercing barking , messy because mom doesn't clean them , needing constant human touch and play for socialization , need to be cleaned with fresh papers and area washed every hours to help them develop into clean pups. They are also the cutest looking like little teddy bears. Pups day 35 Pups receive their first bath and blow dry. A Microchip the size of a grain of rice is implanted between the pup's shoulder blades, just as a vaccination is done. This " microchip " when scanned will produce a number unique to that puppy. There is no way to alter the number or remove the chip without doing surgery. This chip number can be read by any shelter's scanner and will assist you in identifying your puppy. The puppies should be completely weaned now. They should receive all their nourishment from food rather than from their mother. However it is permissible to allow the bitch to give the puppies the occasional feed should she so desire. Don't leave the softened food down permanently, this is unhygienic. Make sure you offer the puppies water to drink. As they move over to solid food and rely less on the bitch they will need water to replace the fluid they had in the form of milk. Ensure the water container is not deep or a puppy could fall in and drown The mom's job is now almost complete. We gradually start to integrate the Mom back into the family and away from her babies. She must of course have access to them, but is not forced to be with them if she doesn't want to. Pups start to really fight and play with each other, learning pain threshold bite inhibition. From this day on the breeder will have limited sleep as the pups like to play and bark early in the morning and late into the night. Pups day 49 The babies are fully weaned and eating four good sized meals a day. Stick to regular mealtimes while Toilet Training As soon as puppy is toilet trained, you must leave water down for them during the day and feed RAW 3x a day to avoid GI upset, bloat and torsion like we do. The puppies will now be very active and will be playing for a few hours a day. They will be very rough with each other and there will be lots of ear tugging! Puppies will also receive an International Health Certificate from our vet to attest to the health of your puppy. Ocassioinally we have had males with undescended Testicals which just means they may or may not be down at the time of the neuter. No big deal. Ocassionally our pups will have lower jaw be narrower than the top jaw pups are still growing and maturing and this poses no health issues. Dewclaw regrowth can also be removed, as can any retained baby teeth. Pups day 49 Bijou Puppy Play area At this stage subject to the weather! Always ensure the area is 'puppy proof' i. Also watch for birds as if they poop in a food source or water bucket, could give your pups Coccidia cure for that is tx with Baycox NEW Bijou Puppy Play area Bijou Poodles designed and had built a special puppy play area so that our pups can remain clean, and parasite free and have lots of mental and physical stimilus to help them mature and develop confidence to be FEARLESS by the time they go home. Pups receive their second bath and blow dry. Pups are also introduced to having their nails Dremelled. Up until now, they may have just heard the dremel working. If you wish to do a series of "3" vaccines then puppy will need one when they come home at 9 weeks of age and two more shots, 4 weeks apart the first year. Puppy will need a vaccination 12 months later, and then not again for 3 years. Puppy Package Pups day 49 Now is the time for us to say goodbye.Puppies being shipped will have all information emailed we are paperless , but puppy will arrive with cage, collar, leash and health certificate. Our contract does stipulate that our "Bijou" name appear first on our Red puppy's registered name and "K-Lar's" name appears first on our Brown puppy's registered name, to reflect that we bred that puppy and aid others in following our amazing lineage. If puppy has not been Altered prior to going home new owners agree to have their pet puppy altered prior to 12 months of age. Current Food information read our page. Pups day 59 The puppy will need first vaccination at 16 weeks of age providing puppy still has maternal antibodies when sent home. Review our Vaccination page for current practice. Pups Day 70 Pups day 91 The puppies are 16 weeks old now, they should have had their 1 and only CORE vaccination and they will just need a Rabies done no sooner than 6 months of age Day The puppies are 16 weeks old now, and be ready for puppy classes Rabies vaccine should not be done before 6 months of age Rabies will be due again the following year and then every 3 years legally after this. You may wish to start on Advantix Flea control or Revolution. Revolution requires blood samples prior to receiving the topical drops that also prevent flea and heart worm, if heart worm is a problem in your area. You are the paying customer the one in charge so make sure you fully understand what you are putting on your puppy. IF you require treatments then we recommend Revolution topical 1x a month treatment which prevents against heartworm, roundworms, hookworms, fleas, ticks, and even mites when used as directed. Or as we would prefer.Development of Puppy For Owners 7 to 12 weeks Puppy needs 20 to 22 hours of sleep to grow and develop his body and mind. This is the number one neglected aspect of raising our precious new friend. It is often why uninformed owners have a puppy exhibit ill temper; the aggression can be due to sleep deprivation. Now place yourself in an environment where it is difficult to communicate to another species. Oh no, they just let the neighbor kid alone with you! I believe you get the idea. Well, you take a breed or line of dogs that is strong-willed and ZAP, the puppy nips to express that it just wants to sleep! Unfortunately, many of the pets you pay with your taxes to have euthanized at the county animal shelters became "nasty" dogs because an uninformed parent used the puppy as a living "child entertainment center". Please pass this reasoning on to anyone you know who is considering a new puppy. The above warning helps you to start to see the world as a puppy. Hopefully, you have looked long and hard to find the right character in your new canine companion. His family tree is brilliant with individuals of strong breed character whom have led faithful and outstanding long lives with their owners; his sires have proved themselves as breed champions or obedience wins. You found a breeder with the attitude about breeding dogs that you found ethical and reputable. So, you met the parents of your puppy or at least the mother, and they were of the character you hope to develop in your new friend. The mother should be a nurturing jewel of a lady. You asked to see her off lead in an open area or in the house. She listened respectfully to her owner and played gently with your children and came to great and sniff you. Perhaps the mother is also a champion or obedience title holder. The most important thing is she is loving and stable. She instills her temperament in the puppies as she nurses them for six weeks. Puppy is confident and curious. He is bold, yet sensitive. He comes from a long line of outstanding "best friends" that the breeder was happy to tell you stories about as they showed you pictures and health test reports. This new little friend is very proud to be your new pet and that attitude is what you capitalize upon to help you in training. You watched his temperament testing and you know about his desires and fears. He is canine, a pack animal. You are now the pack leader. Big responsibility if this is to go without a lot of mistakes! My pups generally test with an excellent response to voice requests. It is important to talk to your puppy. Vary your tone, to the point of exaggeration, to reflect the meaning of the communication. Bark your displeasure and coo your praise. Not until dogs are much older do they understand individual words. At this age, tone is your key A special note must be made here as recommended by Dr. Dunbar, "avoid names that begin with s, sh, or hissy sounding tones. The puppy looks at you timidly as you are calling him to come, but you keep saying that sssss sound. In further training the commands to sit, stand and stay as well as the politically incorrect "shut up" will all be that much more work for your puppy to decipher from his own name. If you would like my formula for no mistakes in the house, read on. You must be fair in training your puppy. Some pups hold grudges and give you another hurdle in training. This trait is usually reported during the temperament test. Other pups take or require more instruction or correction. You will be able to tell from your results how much pressure to apply. Reward with love, and for monumental accomplishments, FOOD. Camera One Canine Actors in San Diego recommends, "Play for 5 minutes, train for 5 minutes," and keep alternating, especially when the pup is young. This sets the mood of training as a fun time with the owner. But at 7 or 8 weeks of age what the puppy has to learn are the basic house LAWS. Your pup will have no problem understanding his own area if it is strictly defined. Remember you are setting the rules that are to be followed or ignored from time to time for the next 10 to 15 years. A few slips of following the guidelines will be setting your pet up for a few slips of the laws in the future. Keeping your pup in the kitchen is fair training. You have given strict boundaries. Everyone in the house knows it. Your spouse respects the law; the children respect the law. And if no one breaks the law your pup will be content in his new home. They are the ones that take him to the outdoors for relieving himself. Remember, I said this is how we make no mistakes. Everyone likes to gather in the kitchen and kitchens usually are not carpeted. This is why I recommend this central, high use room. People do not gather in the laundry room or the spare room in the basement. That is why the kitchen is fair. Taking the pup to another room say to watch television one night and not the next is asking for a lot of howling. Taking the pup every night in to another room is asking for your first accident. The puppy is too young and you can not watch television and the bottom end of the puppy at the same time. The goal here is no mistakes. The puppy is sleeping a lot at this age and if he is wide awake perhaps you could adjust his schedule so he is going to sleep as the household winds down for the day. This is temporary and useful for about the first 6 to 8 months. Remember — no mistakes. Make certain your spouse knows this law, that the children know this law and that Aunt Matilda visiting from Canada knows this law. If the pup is shown just once this new way out you might as well fold up the spacious pen right there and then. And then training just became unfair. Second choice is the dreaded crate training method. My pups are too smart and sensitive to enjoy living in one of those things. So, make certain everyone knows the LAW. Always use the door to put pup in pen or to take him out. Have the pen set up before the puppy comes home. Also you may have his food made and waiting in the fridge. You may warm it to room temperature when he gets there. Nothing will make a pup in a new situation more comfortable than you having control over his space and showing it to him everything set up and the aroma of his food being gently warmed and served will be just what a puppy needs. Thinking like a puppy some more, make certain that half the exercise pen is covered in newspaper for his toilet and the other has a nice blanket, lots of toys, a hanging water bowl and a spot to place the food. Once he has eliminated on the papers and has become a bit calmer, give him his food near his bed. Tell him calmly how proud you are to welcome such a fine intelligent member to the pack. As a reward for "pottying" in the right spot I say, "Go potty on the papers — good puppy" give the pup his first food reward in your pack. As he is checking this food reward by licking and nibbling say some low tone encouraging words. Go ahead and cover the urine or feces with a sheet or two of paper. Knowing that all this is ok will make him comfortable and relaxed. Taking him to the back yard to "potty" may be useless these first few days. An important notion: a new area to explore is to be used as reward for understanding the laws so far. If each area is introduced slowly and only after the first room is understood, you will be well on your way to bragging "no mistakes! This has been a detail of the first 7 to 12 weeks. As you get closer to 12 weeks you will note the pup stops defecating in his exercise pen between walks outdoors. Then, the urination will be more controlled as well. Some house training manuals say to regulate the amount of water for the puppy. I believe fresh, clean purified water not conditioned by water softener or chlorinated should be available at all times. Please feed and water from stainless steel dishes. For the water I recommend a galvanized 2-qt. Catalogs that carry the pens will have these buckets available. The snap you will need to buy at the hardware store. The water being held to the fence this way prevents the bucket from spilling the water everywhere. If the pup spills his food he can eat it off the floor; if he spills his water, besides being a big mess, he is without water. Studies show that dogs prefer water cool not cold and 3 to 5 inches deep in their pail. If you have had no mistakes so far, you may start one room at a time rewarding your puppy for perfect pack behavior. Your "cave" is to be respected and a slow introduction to each room is key to maintaining respect from your adoring pup. Always take puppy out to "Go Potty" every 2 hours at the least when pup is out of his pen. Share some evenings with the puppy. All the time you should tell him that he has earned your trust. Tell him, "I trust you now in this new room — follow me. And make certain the behavior you allow him to carry out while you are watching TV or reading, etc. Remember to be fair in training to build trust. Now is a great time to introduce basic obedience. My line of poodles trains easily with food reward "initially" as young pups. I have seen this method produce problems later in life, with dogs only working for food and only when hungry. Food will work, but after the puppy knows the command switch to praise for the reward and or play as soon as you can. A good leader leads by respect. Check out our Obedience web page for some assistance and examples. A puppy kindergarten class with minor agility aspects would be nice for you to attend if you have found the best class possible in your area. Not the closest, not the cheapest, but the one that the top dog sport competitors are sponsoring or attending. This takes a bit of research and maybe some driving will be involved. It is worth the extra effort to learn from the best right from the start. You'll learn the proper footwork and body language to help train your "blank slate. Learn one command thoroughly before going to the next. It is good to take your pup along to strange places. Be cautious about letting him sniff around dirt and shrubs where other dogs may have defecated. Do not let your puppy sniff other dogs and vice versa instead distract with a. .Your puppy is most vulnerable to viruses and disease at this age. Just explain to other dog owners that you are being intelligently cautious! Pick your puppy up off the ground if another owner doesn't respect your non-contact requests. Use "happy" voice and change direction, clap your hands "over here". .Skip the puppy kindergarten "classes" where they believe that letting all the pups run together in a free for all is teaching them important manners. Some pups may need that.You were smart to locate a puppy to buy that stayed with its mother and litter through the crutial six weeks of age. Your puppy learned important lessons then. Not in the midst of a bunch of pups of questionable backgrounds all on different vaccination schedules. Investigate the course instruction. Puppies should be kept on lead, with a buckle collar with focus on their owners. Each is learning and focused, NOT sidetracked by a riot of pups running loose and out of control. Instructors should appear sharp with lots of direction offered to those that need assistance. Look for a calm, well-run class. Your pup's spirit is already high and happy. He is well adjusted, daring and enthusiastic. Your mission is to maintain that spirit and guide it under your control. Dependable obedience is achieved with a smile from your dog. Dogs love to have guidelines and boundaries. Dogs appreciate being gently guided by strong, kind hands. Instead always act the way you want your puppy to react. Fearless and confident and sounding in charge. Do not stress your pup now. Keep everything simple and give him lots of bones to chew. I do not recommend introducing new lessons. Work only on what your pup knows already. Insist only on maintaining house manners, lessons already learned and keeping the teeth on HIS playthings. Some baby teeth may grow into the gums but don't worry. The gums will make room for these baby teeth and they will soon fall out when the adults come in. A note about teeth: remember when you shed your deciduous teeth at age 6 or 7? Twisting the tooth around until it came out. Bothered by the next one coming loose or the new one coming in. Well, your pup thinks about his teeth a lot right now. You can help the proper alignment of the bite by encouraging the top incisors to come out first. If the upper permanent teeth are coming in to place well before the bottom incisors they will hold the bottom ones in better position. If they come in simultaneously, there may be a crashing of the upper and lower permanent teeth. Instead of meshing nicely the top slightly over the bottom teeth — like your own the bite could become undershot or wry. Pushing gently with your fingers is all that is necessary to help the process. Most owners don't pay that much attention to the teeth. If you have read this far you are not just another average owner! Dental problems are rare in a strong line of poodles like mine. And now I just gave you something else to fool with these weeks! At about 8 months Teenage begins. Hold on to your training once again until the "testing" of your limits by your puppy settles down -- oh, at about 14 months of age. See More Available Standard Poodle Puppies for Sale When our Standard Poodle puppies are born they are individually identified with a small bit of different colors of nail polish, applied to the rump for the males and between the shoulders for the females. We have found in the past 25 years this to be the safest method of identifying our babies. In the past we have tried using, yarn which could be ingested and cause a blockage in the puppy. From the day they are born and for the first three weeks, all our Standard Poodle puppies are weighed every day. This process lets us know that each puppy is healthy, because a puppy should gain weight every day at this young age. If there is any weight loss, it is a warning that something could be wrong. Every other day, we feed the four to eight week old puppies an appetizing mix of chicken broth and kibble. Any puppy slow to dive into this tempting treat is weighed and examined and watched closely for several days. The first sign of a puppy not feeling well, is a loss of appetite. Our Standard Poodle puppies are well socialized and are exposed to horses, four wheelers, golf cart rides, car rides and more. They have had their faces and tails trimmed, nails clipped and ears cleaned multiple times before they reach seven weeks. We use the Dr. It was developed by the military and featured in an article in the May issue of the AKC Gazette. We felt this was a very encompassing socialization program and soon incorporated it into our program. Our Standard Poodle puppies are accustomed to being inside in a smaller climate-controlled area at night and have access to the outside and a large grassy yard and play area all day by the use of a doggie door. All age appropriate vaccines and de-wormers are administered to our Standard Poodle puppies. When you take your Standard Poodle puppy home you will receive a sample of the food that we use. You will have lots of questions about what to do about grooming, feeding, crating and other things related to taking your Standard Poodle puppy home. You will also have our assistance available to you throughout the life of your puppy. We also offer our own personal ground delivery service. All through the years we have also had great success shipping our Standard Poodle puppies by plane to their new families. Please take the time to read the fees charged and how both the shipping and personal ground delivery process works. Below, you will first see individual Standard Poodle puppies that are ready for their forever home now. You will be able to view photos of the Standard Poodle puppies available and under each photo will be a link to the video of the Standard Poodle puppy in the photo. Next you will see the younger Standard Poodle puppies that will be ready for their forever homes in the near future. You will see a slideshow of the Dam and Sire of each litter as well as a video of the litter itself. The date of birth, available pick up and available shipping date of litter will be listed.

Known Diseases Epilepsy Definition: Dog has epilepsy if, for example, at least two epileptic seizures occur more than 24 hours apart. Cataract Cataracts are still one of the most common causes of blindness, even in dogs. Patellar problems Problems with the Patellar can be a displacement or weak kneecap, which is one of the most common causes of lameness in dogs, also because of overweight. Eye diseases Often occur with allergies and intolerances. Diabetes The metabolic disease diabetes often occurs in overweight dogs. Overweight Often, unfortunately, the dogs very much under excess weight. But the dogs themselves are never to blame! Metabolic diseases cystinuria Cystinuria is a hereditary metabolic disease. Affected dogs lack a transport protein for certain amino acids protein building blocks. In the kidney, the task of this transport protein is a return transport of amino acids from the urine into the bloodstream. FAQ What behavior does a Schipper poo exhibit? A cross between a Poodle and a Schipperke, it is a balanced but energetic breed. It can be intelligent and loyal, but it needs a lot of attention, exercise and education to get the best out of it. How big can a Poodle and Schipperke mix get? It is usually a medium sized dog that grows between 25 and 50 cm tall. What color is the coat of a Schipper Poo? It often has black and white color variations, but it can also have brown and gray patterns. How much does a Schipper Poo need to be fed? This dog should be fed twice a day, with each meal containing 1 - 2 cups of food. How much exercise does this hybrid breed need? He needs at least 30 minutes of regular exercise per day to keep fit and healthy. Author Sissi Author Sissi is a blogger since , came on the dog .Since then she struts daily her steps with Loki through the world. The Beagdor Labrador-Beagle mix is a therapy dog for children and also accompanies her to schools. Secretly she fancies a French Bulldog as a second dog. Sissi is a blogger since , came on the dog .Useful Articles. Active families, those looking for a spirited pet, high energy owners Temperament: Intelligent, loving, curious, mischievous Schipper-Poos love attention, so they are often very trainable, but they can be stubborn. Because they are mixes of two different breeds, every Schipper-Poo is unique, and some dogs may take more after one parent breed or the other. Dogs that are harder to train will require a bit more patience and practice. Proper exercise, nutrition, and hygiene also play an important role in the lifespan of your pet. More social dogs have a tendency to run up to strangers for pets and scratches, while less social dogs shy away and are more cautious, even potentially aggressive. Schipper-Poo Puppies A post shared by Masja Pit masjairientje Schipper-Poos are less common than other designer dogs, so finding a Schipper-Poo usually requires some work. There are no rescue organizations dedicated to Schipper-Poos, but Schipper-Poo puppies might be available through breeders. Because they are a newer and rarer mix, prices vary and there is no standard price point. When you do find a Schipper-Poo breeder, ensure that your breeder is properly caring for their dogs before buying. Ethical breeders will properly feed, exercise, and care for their adult dogs and puppies, including proper vet care. Their high energy levels and friendly personalities can make them a great fit for an active family. Well socialized Schipper-Poos will often get on well with kids and make great playmates from morning till night. If a Schipper-Poo is on the larger end, some supervision and additional training might be required to keep children safe. Because Schipper-Poos love attention and get bored easily, it can be harder for single people or older individuals to care for them. Schipper-Poos often do best if they can come along with their owners wherever they go and spend some time playing and exercising every day. Schipper-Poos are a social breed that often loves the company of other dogs. They love furry playmates, and a second dog might serve as a source of entertainment and companionship. Schipper-Poos also can get along with cats and other mid-sized pets with proper training and socialization. Some Schipper-Poos tend to chase cats when not properly trained. Many Schipper-Poos have inherited a strong prey drive that leads them to chase after smaller animals. Because of this, Schipper-Poos might not do well in households with small pets like ferrets, hamsters, or small birds. If you do have small animals, be prepared to watch your Schipper-Poo closely and keep your pets separated. Most Schipper-Poos do best with two or three meals a day. Schipper-Poos are at risk of obesity, so food should be monitored and regulated. Schipper-Poos will be happiest and healthiest when fed high-quality food in the proper quantities. Although the amount of exercise needed varies from dog to dog, most Schipper-Poos enjoy a daily walk and other forms of exercise. They enjoy playing with their owners and exploring the world around them. Because Schipper-Poos tend to be curious, they often enjoy going to new places with their family, provided they are kept on a leash. However, Schipperkes are known for their stubbornness and many Schipper-Poos have inherited this trait. Many owners find that training requires patience and persistence to overcome this stubbornness, but it eventually will pay off. Some may have soft, curly fur, while others may have straighter hair or something in between. Other Schipper-Poos will have moderate shedding coats. A shedding coat will require daily brushing to maintain. Schipper-Poos only require bathing when they are dirty or smelly, and too frequent bathing may cause skin dryness. Schipper-Poos might also require occasional cleaning around the eyes and ears. If a Schipper-Poo gets tear marks below their eyes, regular wiping might be required. Like other dogs, regular tooth brushing will help Schipper-Poos stay healthy. As a designer dog, the Schipper-Poo tends to be healthier than most purebreds. Regular vet care will help you find and treat health problems early. This includes regular physical exams, as well as hip and thyroid tests to watch out for specific health concerns. Schipper-Poos may have the same health conditions that are common in Poodles and Schipperkes. Here are some conditions to watch out for: Minor Conditions. If a mix takes after their Schipperke parent, they will be a small and affectionate dog with a lot of energy and a lot of personality. Schipperkes are playful, energetic, and loving little dogs that can also have a bit of a mischievous streak. They love being around their favorite people and tend to get along well with children. They thrive on being the center of attention and have a high prey drive, which can be a challenge when it comes to other dogs and other pets. They also tend to be wary of strangers, but a well-socialized Schipperke will tend to warm up once introduced. Schipperkes are also prone to alert barking and you will want to train your dog to stop barking early on to keep it from becoming a nuisance. If the other parent breed is similar, then you can expect a similar temperament from a Schipperke Mix. You can also meet the mother in person. This will give you an idea of what her temperament is like and what behavior she has been modeling for her puppies. Although the breeder should have started some socialization and training, it is up to you to continue them once you bring a puppy home. A Schipperke is a highly adaptable dog that does well in apartments and larger homes as long as they get enough exercise. Because of their high prey drive, they should only be let off-leash in secure areas. They thrive in moderate climates, but are sensitive to very hot or very cold weather. They do not like to be left alone for long periods of time. If the other parent breed is also highly adaptable, then you can expect the same from a Schipperke Mix. You still want to talk to the breeder to make sure you are aware of any potential quirks the other parent breed could introduce. Reputable breeders screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. So, make sure you are asking about the health of the parents and about any tests or clearances that have been done. From the Schipperke side, potential health concerns to be aware of in a Schipperke Mix include luxating patella , Legg-Calve-Perthes disease, eye problems, and thyroid issues. A Schipperke is highly intelligent, picks up on things quickly, and is known to be able to learn almost anything — as long as they want to. They are relatively independent dogs that can have a stubborn streak. If the other parent breed is similar, then you can expect a moderately trainable Schipperke Mix. If the other parent breed is easier to train, you will still want to be prepared to enroll in puppy training classes. In addition to training, there are several benefits of puppy training classes , so they tend to be a good idea regardless. A Schipperke Mix can inherit a coat similar to one of their parents or a coat that is a mix of both of them. If they inherit the Schipperke coat, they will shed moderately year-round with heavier seasonal shedding. Weekly brushing and a bath as needed are the minimum; daily brushing is recommended during seasonal shedding. Once or twice monthly nail trimming is enough to keep them from growing too long. Weekly ear checks with careful cleanings as needed can help prevent ear infections. Good dental care for dogs like daily tooth brushing or daily use of an enzyme toothpaste can help prevent dental diseases later in life. Although they sit in a moderate range, Schipperkes are energetic dogs that will have bursts of high energy when they play. If the other parent breed is similar, then you can expect the same from a Schipperke Mix. If the other parent breed sits in a lower or higher activity range, then you will want to be prepared for a mix to be somewhere in that potential range. Fully-grown Schipperkes usually stand inches tall at the shoulder and weigh pounds. The other breed can affect this, especially if they are the mother, so you do want to ask the breeder about them. A Schipperke generally lives for years on average. Although the other parent breed may affect this slightly, you should be able to expect a similar average life span from a Schipperke Mix. Currently, we do not have any Schipperke Mix puppies available, but we can alert you when new Schipperke Mix puppies are available! Just enter your email address and click submit! Please enter a valid email address! Related Breeds. The only perspective that we can define it from is through the history of its parents. The Schipperke is a herding dog descended from a now-extinct Sheepdog. The original strand of its genes came from a local Belgian Sheepdog known as the Leauvenaar. The breed retains its companionship and herding instincts to this day. The Poodle is a German breed used to hunt Waterfowl. In Germany, it would often accompany fishermen, tugging at their lines and prey. After the wars, the demand for the Poodle declined in Germany. Their demand shifted to France and other countries, where they became show dogs and performing dogs. Usually, the coat should be dense and slightly wiry. The eyes of the Schipper-Poo should be almond-shaped in general. The facial features depend highly on the parent it takes after. However, the muzzle of the Schipper-Poo should usually be tapered. The ears of the Schipper-Poo should be erect mostly and sometimes drooping. The body, in general, should be lean with dense muscles. Normally the males can be anywhere between 13 and 20 inches high. The females are only a bit shorter, with their heights of 10 to 12 inches. Both genders will have a weight ranging between 26 to 40 lbs. Normally the lifespan should be close to 13 or 14 years. However, with the right routines, you should expect it to have an even longer lifespan. The current maximum lifespan for this doggie is 15 years. You can find more information about everything in their respective sections. There are other figures that we can explain in more detail and accuracy. An aggregate of these additional figures comes to dollars. They have been explained in detail below. The Poodle is essentially a show-dog. It loves learning new tricks. If it takes after the Schipperke, you may have to switch up your training game. Try to use different days and timings for different parts of the training process. For example, giving it agility drills early in the morning and leisurely walks in the evening. It will not be aggressive or attack any of the other canines without any reason. You should still have it socialized with other canines and felines from an early age. It will reduce the chances of shyness development. Its small size also makes it a good apartment dog. Caring for Schipper-Poo The following section will detail and elaborate on the most important things that your doggie could need or will need. You will also have to keep the diet as clean as possible for this canine. Also, it needs to be kept in mind that the nutritional requirements of most canines are different from one another. The Poodle coat is mostly harder to manage compared to the Schipperke coat. However, irrespective of the coat, it needs to be brushed every day with a good Dog Brush. You will also have to bathe it more frequently compared to other dogs. Be sure to dry it out thoroughly afterward; some people use a Dog Hair Dryer to do the job for them. You should also keep its nails short and manageable. Schipper-Poo Activity Levels For the people who think that the Schipper-Poo is all about cuddling and cutesiness, you could not be more wrong. Beneath its calm and cuddly demeanor is a cyclone, ready to churn out of control. Your job is to keep that cyclone from building up. You can do that by taking it for walks and depleting its energy. Normally 40 to 50 minutes of daily activity is a necessity when it comes to this dog. So instead, why not give them something healthy and tasty. For example, giving them some Dental Chews. These can give your doggie some essential jaw action as well as keep their teeth clean. Another thing that you can do for your doggie is to give them some Rubber Dog Toys. These will not only keep your pet engaged but will also save your furniture and slippers from the menacing maws of your canine. There are at least ten conditions that we could mention right now, but what good would naming them do? The point is that we cannot diagnose any of the conditions that could afflict your doggie. You will need professional guidance for this. The only person who can professionally diagnose the conditions that your doggie can face is a vet. Breeds Similar to Schipper-Poo.