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Eager to please Playful The Rottweiler is the most infamous guard dog in the world! But did you know that they are also one of the oldest herding dog breeds in the world as well? The Rottweiler dates back to Roman times. Back in 70 A. The Romans used the Rottweiler for herding cattle and protecting the cattle and other herd animals from wolves and other predators. Rottweilers were also used as meat cart pullers as well as personal protection detail. Did you know that in the mids, the Rottweiler nearly went extinct? Yes, the Rottie almost went extinct because trains were now a much cheaper way of transporting meat. Grooming — Brush four to five times a day throughout the spring and fall. Colors — Black, golden, brown, merle, brindle, speckled and spotted Eye Color — brown Exercise — Tons of exercises, consider getting them a job at a farm herding or protecting. Training — The Rottweiler American Bulldog mix is notoriously stubborn, a trait inherited from both parents. Socialization — Positive exposure to other people and dogs daily for best socialization. Temperament — Loving, caring, watchful, loves to hunt small game, eager to play, very protective Good in an apartment? The American Bulldog Rottweiler mixed breed is a powerful yet elegant and loyal nature dog. The mark of a great pack leader for these guys is to have them listen to your commands. Training of This Beautiful Breed! I often say that training, socialization, and, finally, exercise are the key foundation for making and keeping a stable and happy relationship with your dog. If you only do two or just one of these, then you are creating a situation in which it will bite you in the end. As a baby, work these commands over with, of course, frequent breaks in-between the training sessions. Make the training longer than the playing by as much as half or even more, and make the training fun with lots of praises and a little treat here and there. When training, it is imperative that you do not give up on your commands while also using positive reinforcement training. This breed is stubborn, so you will need to repeat yourself constantly. Socialization for the American Bulldog Rottweiler Mix Socialization for dogs is key to having a very polite dog to humans and animals; the more they meet strange looking people and animals. The more they will be well behaved, greeting new people and animals. As a puppy, if you can take them out into different environments, say the park, coffee shop, or just walking the streets would be super beneficial to getting your pup socialized. One of the most important things not to do is take your puppy to the dog park. Dogs can be very mean and can scar such a small puppy; secondly, the puppy has not had its shots, so they can transmit and or get a disease. So never take your puppy to the dog park until they are old enough to be able to hold their own and be able to defend against any diseases. Rottweiler American Bulldog Exercise Requirements Exercise for this breed means running about a giant property or being put to use on a farm. May it be herding or protecting against coyotes or humans. As strange as it may seem to read, some people still steal cattle, ducks, or sheep. Height: 22 - 27 inches at the shoulder Weight: 77 - lb. They are also very loving dogs. This dog will require a very strong and firm owner who makes sure to assert that they are the alpha and not the dog. He will need to be watched with strangers to see if he is kind and amicable towards them before he can be fully trusted. Early socialization helps take care of any bad habits that could develop. She responds well to positive reinforcement, like all dogs. She should be rather affectionate and enjoy spending lots of time with you. However, the one positive thing about getting a puppy is that you can avoid this as much as possible. A breeder should absolutely offer a health guarantee on puppies. A reputable breeder will be honest and open about health problems in the breed and the incidence with which they occur. Health clearances prove that a dog has been tested for and cleared of a particular condition. The Dalmatian mixed with the Poodle might be prone to Eye problems, hip dysplasia, skin problems, tail problems. Note that these are just common problems in both breeds. They will be a pretty easy keeper in this department. However, it could go the opposite way as the Bulldog can actually be a heavy shedder. Give them baths as needed, but not so much that you dry out their skin. What are the exercise requirements? Plan on taking them for extremely long walks and hikes to keep their energy level down. This mix will more than likely have a high energy level. This exercise will keep them from being destructive. A tired dog is a good dog. If it has a short nose like the Bulldog you will need to be very careful with it overheating too much. A tired dog is a good dog though. Never tie your dog up outside - that is inhumane and not fair to him. What are the training requirements? This is an intelligent dog that will be a little bit challenging to train. They are going to want to take the alpha position and need someone with a firm, strong, hand that can let them know their place. The best thing you can do is break the sessions into shorter daily sessions to keep their attention span higher. It might have a prey drive and be disposed to running for and chasing small prey, but if handled properly this can be managed. All dogs respond best to positive reinforcement. So make sure to praise her when she does well. She is an intelligent dog who loves to please, and loves a physical challenge. The more exercise she gets the easier she will be to train. Proper socialization is imperative to all dogs and puppies. Make sure to take her to the park and doggy day care to get her around as many people and dogs as possible. Each one is unique and has different dietary requirements. Most dogs in the U. A mix like this one that is prone to hip and elbow dysplasia should really be on fish oil and glucosamine and chondroitin supplements as soon as possible. Overfeeding any dog is not a good idea as that can really exacerbate health problems such as elbow and hip dysplasia. I good diet to look into is Raw Food Diet. A raw food diet will be especially good for the Wolf background. Links to other breeds you might be interested in. It is a cross between the American Bulldog and the Rottweiler. The best way to determine the temperament of a mixed breed is to look up all breeds in the cross and know you can get any combination of any of the characteristics found in any of the breeds in the hybrid. It is very common for breeders to breed multi-generation crosses. The mother had a litter of 10 puppies. His temperament is wonderful and he is a lot of fun. Very obedient and aims to please much like the Rottweiler. We are enjoying our new puppy; he is a lot of fun. He is definitely the protector of our house and yard. He does his rounds every morning, walking the perimeter of the yard, chasing any animals who happened to jump our privacy fence or crawl under, even "chasing" the birds in the trees away. He has grown up with our female Pit Bull , Pixie, and they are best of friends. He is very vocal, if you don't respond to his request immediately his bark gets louder until you do. He likes his head on a pillow of some sort, like your legs, side or an actual pillow. He is definitely a jealous guy and can be a real bully to Pixie, claiming all the toys as his own. He is a very heavy lap dog , weighing around lbs. He can cover quite a bit of ground when he runs, and he "prances" around the house when playing. Our home would not be the same without him! We rescued Gracie from the Oregon Humane Society in .She looked very "Shepherdy" and my children and I always disagreed on what type of Shepherd she was. Last month I took her to the vet for her regular check-up and asked the doctor if there was any way that she could identify the type of Shepherd she was; I guessed Aussie , and my kids guessed German. It is amazing how much she looks like one of the pictures of this breed mix that you have on your web page. She is super sweet and loves to give kisses throwback to the name! She is actually a pretty calm, laid-back puppy. She loves to play but never gets over-excited. I have four kids including two toddlers and she never jumps up on them or knocks them over. She was a rescue from a shelter in a nearby city and we are grateful to be her forever family. It's been quite the Journey—in fact, that's where I got my name. Follow me DeafDogJourney on Instagram. I might be an American Bulldog Terrier mix. I have a heart-shaped spot on my side, a diamond around my eye, and my eyeliner is always on fleek. I learned how to chew on a bone, not fear the bathtub, and recently passed my cat test. I do not have a bite history or show any signs of food aggression. I love daily walks and jogging with you. It takes quite of bit of walking to get me tired. I'm a happy dog, but unfortunately, I don't like everybody. I'm stranger reactive and dog selective, so in-person meet-and-greets with me are required. I will bark at new people and new dogs. Kids usually bring other kids around, so because I'm stranger reactive, a home without kids is best. I love the water, but I'm prone to ear infections. Fetch isn't my thing, and I get itchies from the grass. Finding any home is easy—finding the right permanent home is hard. My team is determined to make sure the rest of my Journey is a happy one. An adopter a few hours of Zanesville, Ohio is not required, but preferred for a pre-home visit. I require a strong, protective pawrent who knows I can be unpredictable with strangers and dogs, and can dedicate time to training. Applications are online at www. Considering Journey for adoption? Life Span Did You Know? They are sometimes also called an English Rottbull. Although a mixed-breed dog can take on any combination of characteristics from their parents, an English Bullweiler tends to be a large, loyal, and playful sweetheart that loves their families. The American Kennel Club may not recognize the English Bullweiler, but other notable dog organizations do. Although this puppy grows into a large, strong, and muscular dog, they are an affectionate sweetheart that is devoted to their families. They tend to be loving and sweet with a playful personality. English Bullweilers tend to get along well with children, other dogs, and other pets. Because they grow to be large dogs, they can easily knock over young children in their excitement. So, you will want to teach your dog and your children how to interact appropriately and also supervise any playtime. They are naturally wary and initially suspicious of strangers because of their guardian instincts, but they tend to warm up once they have been introduced. They can be prone to barking, especially if they are bored. But, if you do some work early on to train your dog to stop barking , you can keep it from becoming a nuisance behavior. The English Bullweiler is a highly adaptable dog breed. They tend to thrive in larger homes with room for them to run. But, they can adapt well to apartments too as long as they get enough attention, exercise, and mental stimulation. They will grow into a large dog, so you do want to keep that in mind if you live in a smaller apartment. Although having a Rottweiler in the cross may help, an English Bullweiler is still likely to be considered a brachycephalic dog. This means they are particularly sensitive to heat and can overheat more easily than non-brachycephalic dogs. They do relatively well in cooler climates. Although they can handle some alone time, they love being around you and thrive on attention. So, they should not be left alone for long periods of time. A mixed-breed dog can inherit none of the conditions common to their parent breeds, but they could also inherit any combination of them or even all of them from one or both of the parents. For an English Bullweiler, potential health conditions to be aware of include elbow dysplasia, hip dysplasia, osteosarcoma, Progressive Retinal Atrophy, and entropion. They can also be prone to developing allergies. Reputable breeders will be screening their dogs to make sure they are not passing preventable issues on to puppies. You can also ask to see any health clearances or results from tests that have been done. An English Bullweiler is intelligent and eager to please. They can pick up on things quickly, but they can also be bull-headed and stubborn. This stubborn streak can be difficult for first-time dog owners to navigate alone, so puppy training classes are recommended. Puppy training classes tend to be a good idea regardless of owner experience. Not only do they help keep training consistent and strengthen the bond you have with a puppy, but they also often offer opportunities to socialize a puppy. English Bullweilers have a short coat that sheds moderately year-round. Brushing them a few times a week with a comb and a rubber curry brush is the minimum. Daily brushing is even better and can help contain the shedding. Bathing is on an occasional as-needed basis, but is recommended every 6 to 8 weeks. These dogs will also tend to drool. So, you may want to have a cloth on-hand to help wipe up occasionally. You will also need to check and wipe their face wrinkles with a damp cloth to help prevent their skin from getting irritated. Although an English Bullweiler is an energetic, athletic, and playful dog, they are not a high-energy dog breed. They tend to sit in a more moderate range. Daily walks plus playtime and some time to run are usually enough for this dog. But, they love to be with you and enjoy being active, so they will likely be up for more activity if you are. Just make sure English Bullweiler puppies finish growing and developing before you take on more intense or high-impact activities. For large dog breeds, this tends to be around 2 years old. Your vet can help you determine when your individual dog has finished growing and their bones and joints have finished developing. A fully-grown English Bullweiler usually stands inches tall and weighs pounds. An English Bullweiler generally lives for years. Currently, we do not have any English Bullweiler puppies available, but we can alert you when new English Bullweiler puppies are available! Just enter your email address and click submit! 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View Our Available Bernedoodle Puppies! Standard Bernedoodles are bigger than Mini Bernedoodles reaching weights of pounds. They average inches in height at the shoulders when fully grown. Our Standard Bernedoodle puppies are all 1st generation-F1 variety puppies. They have purebred Bernese Mountain dogs for moms and the dads are Standard poodles. Their Standard Bernedoodles life expectancy is years old. Blue Diamond Bernedoodles have a loving, easy-going, and calm temperament. Bernedoodles are very loyal and social and love to spend time with their parents. Standard Bernedoodles need regular grooming because of their curly and thick coats. Shedding is very minimal after their first haircut and grooming. This breed is known to be a hypoallergenic choice. Here at Blue Diamond Family Kennels, we specialize in breeding Standard Bernedoodles along with a few other great breeds. We have teamed up with a few other reputable Bernedoodle breeders that breed and raise Bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. On our Standard Bernedoodle puppies page you will see all of our available puppies for sale. View Our Available Puppies! You should not confuse Mini Bernedoodles with Standard Bernedoodles. Our adorable Mini Bernedoodle are of the F1 variety. All the doodle moms are purebred Genetic Tested Bernese Mountain dog females. Our mini Bernedoodle pups usually end up weighing pounds and around inches tall when full grown. Most Mini bernedoodles live to be around years old. Mini Bernedoodles have become really popular because they shed very little after they shed their puppy coat, they are very hypoallergenic. We have specialized in breeding Mini Bernedoodles as well as a few other breeds for many years. They are a big part of our family and farm. We have also partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. We usually have a good selection of very high quality doodle puppies. So if you live near West Lynchburg Virginia and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Bernedoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are a few of our Mini Bernedoodle Pups!

Advertisements Destructive Chewing Behaviors What could be more stressful than coming home from a long day of work to find your living room looking like the frat house from the movie Animal House? As you start to pick up the mess, you make a mental list of the cost of everything your bully destroyed. You give your bully the best of everything: great toys, a fancy bed, and yummy chewies. Why would she do this to you? Dealing with a dog with destructive chewing behaviors can be one of the most upsetting challenges a dog owner faces. But chewing is a normal behavior for puppies and adult dogs. After all, a dog uses her mouth to explore her surroundings. The first step in solving the problem is understanding why your bully is chewing. Here are some of the reasons why dogs chew: 1. Medical Problems Have you ever heard of pica? When pica occurs in dogs, it is triggered by malnutrition, which is caused by a poor diet or parasitic infestation. Pica can cause cravings in your bully that lead her to chew on things that have no nutritional value. Tummy trouble and nausea can also cause your bully to chew, which she uses as a coping mechanism to ease her discomfort. Improper Weaning The appropriate age to wean puppies is about 7 to 8 weeks. Some puppies that are weaned too early develop fabric-sucking behavior, and the habit can continue into adulthood. In fabric-sucking behavior, a dog will lick or suck fabric, and the behavior can easily lead to fabric chewing. In the worst cases, a dog will spend extended periods of time compulsively suckling fabric, and she may become so focused on the habit that she ignores everything around her when she is engaged in the behavior. Hunger Has your bully packed on a few extra pounds? If so, you are probably limiting her food rations and caloric intake. A hungry bully may engage in destructive chewing behavior, in which case she will chew on things that smell like food. Anything you touch while preparing or handling food can become her target. Even your remote control is at risk if you use it while you are snacking. Puppies That Are Teething Just like human babies, bully pups go through a phase when they lose their baby teeth and grow their adult teeth. And like human babies, puppies experience pain when they are teething. Puppies start teething when they are 3 to 8 weeks old, and they complete the process when they are 4 to 6 months of age. Chewing is how teething puppies attempt to relieve their sore gums, and it also helps their adult teeth emerge. However, some puppies develop a habit of chewing that they continue even after they are done teething. Normal Behavior Chewing a bone or a stick for a few hours is perfectly normal behavior for a wild dog or your pet. Dogs chew for stimulation, and they chew for entertainment. Boredom Does your bully get plenty of exercise every day? What about play time and social interaction? If not, she may chew as a way to pass the time. Seeking Attention Because dogs are social animals, they require attention from their owners daily. If your bully wants your attention, she may chew on something that she knows is off limits. Because to your bully, negative attention from you is better than no attention at all. Stress, Fear, or Frustration When your bully is feeling nervous or upset, she may chew to relieve her stress. What scares your dog? Thunderstorms or fireworks? And what frustrates your dog? Seeing squirrels outside that she is never allowed to chase? Chewing is a natural coping mechanism for dogs. Separation Anxiety Separation anxiety is one of the most common causes of bad behaviors in dogs. If your dog primarily engages in destructive chewing when she is left alone, separation anxiety is the cause. Another sign is chewing that occurs mainly near windows and doors. More symptoms of separation anxiety include whining, barking, and pacing, as well as peeing and pooping inside the house. Destructive Chewing Is Dangerous When your bully chews up your remote control, your sunglasses, and a couple couch cushions, you know you have a problem. A big, expensive, stressful problem. The last thing you want is to feel angry at your bulldog, but destructive chewing behaviors can ruin a good day fast. She could suffer tooth and gum damage, and she could choke. How to Stop Destructive Chewing After you identify the reason that your bully is being so destructive, you can focus on correcting the problem. The good news is that there are many effective techniques for stopping destructive chewing behaviors. Take Your Bully to the Vet You need to make sure that a health problem, such as pica or gastrointestinal distress, is not the reason your bully is chewing. A visit to the vet will help you determine if your bulldog is suffering from an undiagnosed medical issue. DO have realistic expectations. Give your bully time to adjust to the house rules. DO have patience. The most important thing to remember is to be positive and consistent. If your bully chews up your favorite shoes, it can be hard to stay calm. But losing your temper will only lead to more problems, including chewing due to fear or stress. A few folks recommend some pretty awful techniques for curing your dog of chewing. Not only are their ideas inhumane, but depending on your state laws, they could be felonies. DO dog-proof your house. While your bully is learning not to chew up your things, help her out by keeping temptation out of reach. Shoes go in the closet. Dirty clothes go in the laundry. And books go on the shelf. The bright side is that your house will be tidy! It will only confuse her as to which shoes are okay to chew and which are off limits. DO give your bully plenty of chew toys. Make sure you rotate them every few days so that your bulldog does not get bored with her choices. Then give her something she is allowed to chew and praise her. DO buy your bulldog meat-scented nylon bone chewies as most dogs love them, and they last a really long time. Use the bone to play fetch with your bully a couple times a day. Playtime will make your bulldog more interested in the bone. And the more you play with the bone, the more it will smell like you, which appeals to your bully. They can splinter and injure her. DO praise your bully and offer her an edible treat when she chooses to chew on a toy or bone. DO give your bulldog plenty of exercise, playtime, and social time. She will be less likely to feel bored and display negative attention-seeking behaviors. And exercising your bully, especially before you leave her alone, will help her to rest instead of chewing while you are gone. She is not capable of understanding that she is in trouble for something she did earlier in the day. She is not looking guilty for earlier bad behavior. DO use a gate to restrict your bulldog to one area of the house while you are gone. Make sure she has water and plenty of chewies, but no access to anything of yours she can destroy. DO give your bully a toy box to hold all her chewies and toys. Teach her that she can only chew and play with things from the box, and praise her when she chooses something from her toy box. DO leave music playing to soothe your bulldog while you are gone. A recording of your voice works well too. DO give your bully herbal calming medications if she is highly anxious at times, like during thunderstorms. You can find a variety of herbal treatments at most pet supply stores. That will only heighten her anxiety. Let the Training Begin! Working with your bully to replace bad behaviors with good ones can be fun. She will thrive on the attention, and the playtime will be a blast for you too! It is only natural to feel frustrated when your bulldog has a setback, but patience and positive reinforcement will give her a much better chance of achieving the good behaviors you seek. You will have a better outcome when you focus on her positive behaviors instead of the negative ones! Related Items:. They are suffering from separation anxiety They are exploring their environment by chewing Underlying medical issues You could be wondering how you can stop your bulldogs from chewing everything they come across. However, to do this, you need to first understand why they chew so much. As said above, there are numerous reasons why your bulldog chews a lot. Discussed below are some of the reasons why Bulldogs chew everything more in depth. Teething Teething is among the many reasons that make your dog chew a lot. When teeth emerge or when the temporary teeth get replaced by the permanent ones, it can become painful and this may cause the dog to chew in an attempt to relieve the discomfort. Chewing is a common occurrence to bulldogs amid teething and when not properly addressed, it becomes a long-lasting issue until when your dog grows into adulthood. Exploring Other than teething, bulldog puppies may likewise chew in an attempt to discover their environments. Just like human babies, they discover their surroundings by putting everything they come across in their mouth. Puppies and babies learn and explore through their taste buds. It is a natural reaction for them. Chewing everything they come will help to satisfy their curiosity. If your bulldog only chews when you are not at home, then it is the separation that makes him chew. He may be lonely, and chewing can bring comfort to your bulldog. Not to mention they may be bored which brings us to our next point. Excess Energy and Boredom In case your bulldog has a lot of energy and has nothing to utilize it on, then it will use that energy in doing some other things which include chewing whatever they come across. Make ensure that your dog gets involved in some engaging activities such as playing games, for example, fetch or hide and seek. After a good walk or minutes of play time, your bulldog should be ready to settle in for a long nap. These include eating disorders, for instance, eating non-food products, nutritional deficiencies, and viruses. Gastrointestinal issues can likewise prompt your dog to chew items in an attempt to induce vomiting. You should consult a veterinarian anytime you notice your dog is chewing destructively and vomiting since this can be an indication of a serious health issue. It is advisable that you identify the reason that is causing your dog to chew so as to keep him healthy and also to keep your bulldog and your belongings safe. How to Stop Chewing In Bulldogs Chewing can be frustrating, especially if your bulldog is chewing your belongings. Chewing is a natural instinct for bulldogs most of the time, but if your dog is chewing unhealthy items, the behavior should be stopped as soon as possible. What you consider as undesired behaviors is natural for bulldogs. For instance, chewing or digging may be considered to be destructive, however, these are things that are very normal to bulldogs. You can allow your dog to chew the right things, for example, his chew toys. See also Can Bulldogs Get Bloat? Plus 6 tips to Prevent it! These dogs are known to have very strong jaws and love to chew things. They can destroy a living room in a matter of minutes with their chewing. Among the things that you should do to ensure your home is not obliterated is puppy-proofing your home in case you have little bulldogs. Puppies are eager to discover their surroundings and any the items in it. Get rid of anything that is unsafe or unwanted. Ask everybody in your house to pick up their belongings such as toys, books, electronics, shoes etc since leaving them in an open place will quickly turn into a chew toy. Give you bulldogs toys that will help to invigorate them mentally and also physically. Keep in mind that all toys are not made equal and hence you should choose toys that can withstand several hours of chewing. Taking your dog out for exercises will help to consume much of his energy that would otherwise be directed towards chewing. When your bulldog is exhausted he will have no interest in chewing anything. Also take your bulldog out for some play time before you leave the house so they will be ready to settle in and sleep after while you are away. Others Solutions. If your little bulldog is teething you can consider providing things that will distract him to make him busy. You can, for example, provide frozen chew toys, or wet and frozen washcloth that will help to soothe the gums. If you suspect your dog has an underlying health condition that is causing him to chew, set up an appointment with your veterinarian. Your veterinarian will most likely order blood work to see if your bulldog has any nutrient deficiencies and from there prescribe supplements and treatment for health issues. It is not advisable that you give your bulldog human vitamins. Vitamins formulated for humans have higher concentrations, and can contain other compounds that can be harmful to your pup. Chewing is one thing to deal with, an allergic reaction is a whole-nother story. However, their natural behaviors, for instance, chewing everything they come across can at times be disastrous and frustrating. It is crucial that you understand the causes of this chewing behavior and come up with the most viable solutions. Always ensure that the dog is chewing the right thing but not anything undesired. If you provide good care to your bulldogs they will in return give you many years of fun and true friendship. Train your bulldog as a puppy to not chew on furniture, shoes, important papers, books, or other household items. You will also have to do your part and clean up your belongings. Give lots of play time and affection, along with a healthy diet. Be sure to avert unwanted chewing behavior as soon as possible to make sure that you give your bulldog a happy and healthy life and also to safeguard your furniture and valuables. Post Views: 1, Take a note that this method is suitable only for Bulldog puppies and not for grown-up dogs. As you see, you need to prevent your dog destructive chewing from its early puppyhood. Super Ventilated Muzzle for Chewing Prevention If you leave your Bully kid home alone, don't to lock it in the open-air-cage as it can do the deeds directly there and, even more, step on or sit in its excrements. Bulldog chews things - when will grow, then will cease! This is one of the biggest misconceptions! Contrary to the common beliefs, not all, but just few grown-up English Bulldogs cease of chewing everything. They can chew only special dog toys for biting and chewing. Many Bulldogs keep chewing slippers, footwear, kid stuff and pieces of furniture. Young Bulldogs are considered to be the biggest "gnawers", especially when they attend different dog classes, connected with bite training and retrieve skills improvement. But you needn't decline from Bulldog training any way, just use these methods, we're going to offer you to stop your Bulldog chewing things. You need to apply both of them at the same time. The first method is to limit the access of the dog to any things and subjects untill Bulldog reach the age of two. And then freedom needs to be provided gradually and for small periods of time. Perfect Muzzle to Stop Chewing in Safe Way The second and the most important method is to use a special personalized Bulldog muzzle , which will prevent your dog from chewing, picking up and eating things from the ground and provide the best comfort for your pet. Just put a daily use muzzle on your Bulldog when you are going for a walk and for a few hours per day to reach your goal. Check our collection of the best muzzles for Bulldog. You are welcome to learn more about Bulldog chewing - the main reasons. No comments Is your French Bulldog chewing everything in sight? They crave the presence of their humans and interaction. Sometimes, their chewing behavior can be the result of an underlying medical problem. Keep in mind that some chewing is normal dog behavior, and Frenchies are a heavy chewing breed. Where, when, what, and how they chew will be your determining factors on whether their chewing is excessive or worrisome. Reasons your French Bulldog is chewing Anxiety, Teething, and Temperament Separation anxiety and boredom are two of many reasons your Frenchie may turn to chewing. Generally, you will notice other behaviors beyond simple chewing. Separation anxiety is as stressful for them as much as the aftermath is for you. Age can be a main factor too, such as with teething puppies. They only want to relieve the pain and pressure in their mouths. Another common reason for chewing is their tenacious temperament. French Bulldogs can outright throw temper tantrums that put a toddler to shame. The cause can be from you speaking to them too harshly to your Frenchie not getting what they want. Medical Reasons The next group of common causes for chewing are medical reasons. Frenchies have many genetic abnormalities that come from years of questionable breeding and poor lineage. Among the top reported concerns are allergies. Frenchies are more prone to respiratory issues than other breeds because of their shorter snout, but food, seasonal, and general allergies can cause moderate to excessive chewing. Pododermatitis is another concern in French Bulldogs, which includes excessive licking and chewing of their feet. This condition occurs from injury, infection, allergy, and other unknown reasons, but it can be serious if left untreated. Fleas and parasites can cause a severe allergic reaction on top of their itchy bites. It only takes one bite, so you may not see evidence other than their behavior. The allergic reaction can lead to excessive biting, chewing, licking, and scratching. Things a French Bulldog may chew Unless your French Bulldog chews on themselves, what they choose is likely either preference or convenience. Oh, and they can chew anything and everything. Of course, removing items might be impossible with Frenchies who chew your furniture, cabinets, or molding. Do your best to use positive reinforcement and reduce scolding or punishments. How to stop your French Bulldog chewing Before you can answer this, you have to channel your inner dog whisperer and understand why your dog is chewing in the first place. Ask yourself, is this normal? Is it anxiety? Did you scold them harshly? The largest exception to this is French Bulldogs chewing on themselves. If you notice bald patches, redness, or bleeding, you should take them to the veterinarian straight away. These are all signs of an allergic reaction, skin parasites like fleas, or skin allergies. Once your veterinarian diagnoses the cause, you can work together to find a suitable treatment. Do keep in mind this can take time to determine. It entirely depends on the cause. If you suspect an allergy, you can expect further testing and possibly an elimination diet. Fleas would require medication to soothe the reaction and a preventative measure. The good news is your Frenchie should stop chewing after you address the underlying issue. If your French Bulldog is a puppy and teething, you want them to chew. Wrapping up French Bulldogs naturally love to chew. Look to provide them with age and breed appropriate items and encourage good chewing behavior as much as possible to satisfy their needs. Most importantly, a French Bulldog chewing on themselves is not normal. Remember to make an appointment with your veterinarian if you notice this behavior. His guardians reached out to set up a dog obedience training session with him to stop a few unwanted behaviors; not listening to his guardians, chewing on baby toys, the back deck and furniture as well as refusing to go down the stairs to do his business in the back yard unless accompanies by one of his guardians. George was excited to meet me when I arrived for the session; getting right up and personal. At first, the scent on my shoes of the other dogs I have worked with was a strong attractor of his attention. But as soon as he finished giving me a sniff-over, he attempted to do something inappropriate. After showing his guardians my preferred method of disagreeing with the jumping up behavior, we all took a seat in the living room to discuss how I could best help them. Due to his chewing issue, I asked to take a look at his chew toys. Chewing is a soothing activity for dogs, so providing adults, and especially puppies, good chewing options goes a long way towards eliminating destructive chewing. In this case, the humans had a good assortment of toys. I suggested a few additions, but more importantly I recommended that they leave some sticks in the back yard as well as a water buffalo horn or bone. Its a safe bet that George was chewing on the deck out of boredom. Giving him a few sticks and appropriate chew options will give him options and should stop his chewing of the wooden deck. I also recommended that the guardians all carry a Nylabone or antler with them when around George. Any time he gets mouthy, with them, they can pull out the bone and tease George with it for a few seconds to get him interested, then let him win in taking it from the humans. As soon as they give him the bone, the person needs to remember to pick up another one so they have one with them at all times. Even if the dog nip was unintentional. By yelping loudly and then freezing in place or moving away, the humans can communicate that the consequence of any teeth to skin interaction results in the immediate stoppage of play. Being a puppy, George needs a good amount of daily exercise. While the guardians were providing it to him most days, they were doing it at the end of the work day. This means George is in the kennel with a good amount of pent up energy. I recommended that they continue with this exercise and journal the number of repetitions along with a grade for the day. Adding the time and quantity of any exercise along with any behavior problems and the times that they occur can go a long ways towards identifying if we need to up the exercise or make other corrections. After doing so, it he is mouthy in the window afterwords, the person should pull out their nylabone or antler from their pocket and tap George on his side a few times then when he goes for it, play a little tug of war before letting him win and pull the item away. This usually results in a dog laying down and chewing on the item instead of the human. Next I went over my petting with a purpose method and a few ways of disagreeing with unwanted behaviors. It took a number of repetitions, but eventually George got it. Bulldogs are very determined so I made sure to point out how important it will be for his guardians to consistently outlast him for the next few weeks. George is going to continue to try to get his way. But by consistently disagreeing with good timing within 3 seconds and recreating any situations where George gets into trouble, his family will be able to teach him to stop spazzing out and jumping up, leaning on or pawing for attention. Towards the end of the session, I went out back to show the guardians how to get George to go down the stairs to the back yard without them being present. Because it was dark when I worked with George on the stairs, I am sharing a video from another session with a dog who had the same problem. Always end on a good repetition Leave treats on the stairs to the back yard with a small handful at the bottom Create situations and scenarios where George gets into trouble to practice disagreeing before he can do the wrong thing Eat before giving George permission to eat food that is waiting in his bowl. Pull any remaining food after George moves away from bowl But replace empty bowl to floor Share this:. I agree with everything said up above,here are accepted chew toys from what I have read: All the products listed by veterinary oral health council: Veterinary Oral Health Council Accepted Products for Cats and Dogs CET rawhide chews contain a dual-enzyme system that improves their effectiveness compared to plain rawhide chews. Kongs are firm rubber toys that come in a variety of sizes and shapes. Some of the Kongs allow you to place cheese or peanut butter inside to improve acceptance. Greenies are safe and help with reduction in plaque and calculus. Hard chew toys do help in decreasing dental calculus, but are associated with an increased incidence of broken teeth. Although touted as being part of a natural diet, dogs that are given hard chew products usually end up with painful dental fractures, which can actually expose the nerves of the teeth. The dogs end up with an abscessed tooth. Since they do not complain about it or act any different, these can go unnoticed for many years, leaving your pet in chronic discomfort. Wild dogs, such as wolves, also suffer the same dental fractures. They have no choice but to live with the pain. Fortunately, you can avoid most dental fractures in pets by controlling what they have access to. Therefore, cow hooves, thick pig ears, natural bones, or hard Nylabones are not recommended. Click to expand.Please I'm going to say something but it's not against you just where you got the info from. Greenies are the worst crap on the market just like rawhide. Never never give greenies or rawhide to any dog. Ive given all my life real marrow bones to all my dogs. They all had beautiful white strong teeth. Give rubber toys as it removes stains and teeth stays white. You will have a lot of members in here will go against rawhide and greenies. Vets gets a commission with what they sell by these big companies like their Royal Canin kibbles. Another crappy product. This is MY opinion. My puppy is chewing up everything in my house! Page 1 Note: if your adult dog is still chewing things up around the house it is most likely bored. Try giving it more exercise in the form of pack walks. Puppies go through a teething stage from about four months to the age of ten months. They lose their baby teeth from about four to six months and their adult teeth begin to grow in at about six to ten months. It is important to allow your puppy to chew to help his teeth come in, however you need to teach your puppy what is OK to chew and what is not. During this time your puppy's teeth will feel very uncomfortable and the pup will want to chew on everything trying to relieve the discomfort. He is not chewing purposely to upset you, he is simply uncomfortable. Do not allow your puppy to chew or bite on humans as it will be setting yourself up for problems in the future. The best way to handle a teething puppy is, every time the pup chews on something he is not allowed to chew on take it away and immediately give him something he is allowed to chew on. To teach your puppy not everything is his to chew on, place things in front of him one by one that he is not allowed to have. If he begins to chew the item say, "Leave it" and direct him to an item he is allowed to chew on. Then stand near the off-limits object and do not allow the puppy to go near it. Keep giving the bone, or other object he is allowed to have, back to him. If you simply yank the object from the puppy's mouth you may bring out the pup's prey drive, making the puppy that much more determined to get the object back again. Try redirecting his attention with another object such as food or using the "leave it" command as you slowly remove the shoe from his mouth and immediately give him a bone or other toy he is allowed to chew on. If he learns to run with something and you are not there to immediately stop him you will lose the battle. Closely watch your puppy. Puppies chew on whatever they can get their mouths on. If you provide your pup with a toy or bone and he chews it apart into little pieces be sure to take those pieces away from him. Keep your puppy safe and use your best judgment as to what is safe to chew and what is not. Puppy proof! Before you bring the new puppy home you should remove all items that your puppy can chew on. You should take the same safety precautions with your new puppy as you would take with a human toddler. Remove plants. Make sure electrical cords are out of reach. Pick up shoes and socks, and make sure there are no poisons or chemicals that your puppy can get his mouth on. If you have mouse traps or roach motels, get rid of them. Remove any object the puppy could put in his mouth. If he can put it in his mouth, he can choke on it. There is nothing more terrifying than seeing your little helpless puppy choking. Always confine your puppy in a safe area while you are away. His crate is the safest place. You can also use baby gates in the kitchen or bathroom, but only after housebreaking is completed. Make certain your puppy gets plenty of exercise to burn off energy. A bored puppy is a destructive and unhappy puppy. If your dog destroys things when you leave it may just be a case of separation anxiety. Dogs also chew if they are lacking in mental and or physical exercise.

He is a lovable and loyal pup whose name literally means loyalty and strength, and he embodies these qualities every day. Cuden is a mixed breed, and although his exact breed is unknown, he boasts a beautiful, sleek coat. With his expressive brown eyes and alert ears, Cuden is always ready for a good time. He is a playful and energetic dog who loves to run and play with his toys. Despite his boundless energy, Cuden is also a very affectionate dog who loves to snuggle up with his humans. He is a quick learner and is always eager to please, making him an ideal candidate for training. Cuden gets along well with people of all ages and would make a great companion for a loving family. Heritage Humane Society is committed to finding the perfect home for Cuden and many other dogs like him. If you are looking for a loyal and loving companion, come meet Cuden at the shelter and see if he is the perfect match for you. Small right facing arrow These pups are in Richmond, Virginia too! Below are our newest added English Bulldogs available for adoption in Richmond, Virginia. To see more adoptable English Bulldogs in Richmond, Virginia, use the search tool below to enter specific criteria! Many of our dogs end up around the world, including the great state of Virginia. In Virginia Olde English Bulldogges are a popular breed. We have also assisted in Old English Bulldog rescues in Virginia. With affordable shipping, we can get you happy, healthy, and socialized Olde English Bulldog puppies in Virginia. A premier breeder with unbeatable guarantees, customer service 2nd to none and of course our amazing quality bulldogges makes us the best spot for your Virginia Olde English Bulldogge puppies. Below is a few pictures of some of our Virginia Olde English Bulldogges residing with their loving families in Richmond, Virginia. If you are looking for a perfect bulldogge, give us a call .For avid facebookers you will also be able to interact with siblings of your pup and watch how they grow! Look no further! Happy, Healthy and Socialized Bulldogge puppies come from One of a Kind Bulldogs Truth is, we have an epidemic of puppy mills and backyard breeders. Our customers have done the hard work and inspected our facility for you out of state clients. I love to follow all of our friends and the adventures they have with their dawgs. Anyone else interested please do the same. Hes mellow, smart a huge :. We couldnt be happier with him and with Ary. Ary is always available to help answer questions of give advise and loves to keep up with his pups as they grow and beyond. In researching, we found Ary and the Olde English breed and could not be happier with the decision to get Bruce. Ary was incredible throughout the process, explaining everything we needed to know about the breed and the process of importing him into Hong Kong. He checked in with us several times before the flight and was in constant contact via text when we went to the airport to pick up Bruce, who arrived a little skeptical of his new surroundings but perfectly healthy and happy. The extent to which Ary cares about every one of the amazing dogs he sells is clear through his attention to detail and willingness to put in any extra effort to make sure his puppies get to, and stay in, good homes. He took to his kennel training and potty training so fast! In searching for our puppy, we did our due diligence researching online and then visiting your property in person. I was impressed with how happy and healthy all of your dogs are. I also enjoyed getting the opportunity to meet the parents of our puppy; they both seemed to have great termperments. Thanks for a wonderful puppy! Lauren W. I recently adopted her from Ary, and it was great! Ary is so devoted to all of his dogs, he even knows them by their bark! His property is a dog haven, dog runs, kiddie pools, and toys for days! He truly loves what he does. When I heard that Ary had rescued a litter of puppies i had to take a look! I fell in love with them all, as i do with all of his litters! He knows the background of each and every one of his dogs, he is so knowledgeable about the breed and is always there to answer any questions i have about Pepper. I will definitely be getting another bulldogge from Ary in the years to come. Thanks Ary! Jenna S. Iowa Hey Ary We just want to say thank for are boy Kane. He one of the best we gotten. He is are first bulldogge and wont be the last. Im just glad you made my day by letting take Kane home to live with use. S im looking forward to the day we get are girl from you. He is pounds and a real joy to have around! Ary is so helpful and we are grateful for him introducing us to this wonderful breed. There really is no better breed of dog! If you are looking for a bulldog and you should be! Shane S. Cares deeply about the health and well being of his dogs. A quality breeder with amazing dogs!! Cinda G. Brea, CA Just want to start off by saying: Ari, isnt just a Breeder hes a good guy and now a friend of mine!!!! I bought a puppy from him last feb !!! Since that time he taught me a lot about the breed to the point where i want to start breeding oldies!!!! So if you looking for a quality olde you have came to the right spot…. One of a Kind is now actively helping save shelter Bulldogges in high risk of euthanization, this is our way of giving back! Check our rescue site www. We are helping the olde English Bulldogges that were relinquished to shelters and ironically clening up a lot of the mess irresponsible backyard breeders are making. We always have olde English Bulldogges needing a home, if you dont wanna buy a puppy, help save a shelter dog. Follow Us on Social Media! Paypal Secured Payments.

Breeds The link has been copied! The German Shepherd has long been prized for its working ability. Police, military, search-and-rescue teams, and families alike have loved and used this intelligent and obedient dog for a variety of tasks. And the Border Collie is known as the smartest dog breed in the world. What happens when you put these two dogs together? Shollie Shepherd x Border Collie Main Characteristics As a cross between two intelligent working dogs, you can expect the Shollie to be a smart, energetic pup. These dogs are great for active families where they have space to run and receive adequate exercise each day. Their size can vary since German Shepherds tend to be larger than Border Collies. However, Shollies usually stand between 20 and 24 inches at the shoulder and weigh between 70 and 90 pounds. Both parent breeds come in a few different colors and Shollies can have quite a variety of color patterns. However, one thing is for sure. They will have a thick double coat that sheds twice a year — six months in the Spring and six months in the Fall. History of the Shollie The idea that crossbred dogs are inferior to purebred dogs has been waning in recent years. In fact, the popularity of designer dog breeds, the hybrid cross of two purebred dog breeds, has been spiking rapidly. One of the most well-known designer dog breeds is the Labradoodle. This Labrador Retriever Poodle mix set off the whole Doodle dog craze of crossing all sorts of dog breeds with Poodles to create more hypoallergenic versions of dogs. That and the fact that the crosses end up looking somewhat like adorable teddy bears have made these crossbred dogs extremely popular. It is unclear who decided that crossing a Border Collie with a German Shepherd would be a good idea or why. But the resulting hybrid has been making a splash in the dog community. What Does a Shollie Look Like? Border Collies are usually black and white and German Shepherds can come in a wide variety of colors though they are commonly black and brown. The Shollie can have black, brown, fawn, sable, or white hair and are almost always a mix of at least two colors. Many have an intriguing mottled pattern. Their bodies tend to be lean and athletic and they are fairly large dogs. Despite their size, they are gentle and loving and tend to be good with kids. Most Shollies have brown eyes, though they can also be hazel, blue, or amber. They usually have black noses with long muzzles. Exercise Needs Both parent breeds were bred as working dogs and needed energy and stamina for this purpose. This makes the Shollie an active dog that requires at least one hour of vigorous exercise per day. They will love having a large yard where they can run freely. If this is not available, access to an off-leash dog park would be ideal. As intelligent dogs, they love exploring new areas. They will adore accompanying you and your family on hiking adventures or participating in agility classes or other canine sports. Border Collies top the charts of Obedience and Working Intelligence. This measure looks at both how many repetitions the dog requires to learn a technique as well as how likely they are to obey a known technique. The higher their score, obviously the more trainable they are. German Shepherds are well known for their trainability. Though there is always some unpredictability with crossbred dogs, you can bet a child of these two breeds will be easy to train. Since both parent breeds are super intelligent with an eager-to-please attitude, the resulting hybrid ends up the same. But owning an intelligent dog comes with a responsibility. They need a job to do or some other form of mental stimulation. Otherwise, they will find something to entertain themselves in their boredom — which may spell disaster for your furniture! Luckily, they enjoy mental stimulation in various forms. Learning new tricks, participating in agility or canine sports, puzzle toys , playing with your kids, and even exploring areas of your large backyard count. If you have to leave them alone for a long period of time, leave them with a puzzle game or toy. This will help give them something to do and keep their mischievous streak at bay until your return. All in all, the Shollie is a fantastic dog when it comes to training and obedience. Are Shollies Independent? Some dogs are content to sit at home awaiting your return from a long day at work. The Shollie is not one of them. They are loving, sociable animals who will give you their whole heart. In exchange, they expect a certain amount of love and affection. It only makes sense, right? If you live alone and work outside the home all day, a Shollie may not be a good choice for your companion. They can become anxious or depressed and this will often come out as bad behavior like digging or chewing up shoes. On the flip side, Shollies are wonderful for families. They love playing with little children and will adore living in a household where there is almost always someone around to offer them an ear scratch. After a long day working or playing, they love nothing more than to cuddle with you on the couch or at least curl up at your feet while you relax in the evenings. They can get a little protective of their families especially their little people. If they feel threatened at all, they may display territorial behavior — even if that means protecting their little charges from Grandma! German Shepherd Surprisingly, there is one man and one dog to thank for the development of the German Shepherd breed. Max Emil Freidrich von Stephanitz dreamed of becoming a gentleman farmer. However, he was pressured by his affluent family into joining the military instead. During his time as a cavalry officer in the German countryside in the midth century, the incredible sheep herding dogs caught his eye. He was impressed by their intelligence and responsiveness and distressed by their dwindling numbers. As modernity approached, the need for sheepherding dogs was waning, but Von Stephanitz decided to do something about it. Thus, he bought a large estate near Grafath in Bavaria and set out to find the right dogs to create his formal breed. The right dog turned out to be one dog that he bought at a dog show in April of .The four-year-old dog, Hektor Linksrhein, had a wolf-like appearance and demonstrated superior intelligence and depth of character. Von Stephanitz renamed the dog Horand von Grafrath and used him to sire innumerable pups. Virtually every German Shepherd living today can be traced back to this dog. And von Stephanitz did things right. He bred carefully, looking to cultivate both beauty and brains in a time when they were mostly concerned with brains. His quest ultimately created a dog that is handsome, intelligent, obedient, and loyal. Not to mention both loving and easy to love. This medium-sized dog is descended from the old Roman sheepherding dogs and the Spitz-type herders of the Vikings. They routinely performed well in informal competitions among sheepherders back in the s. Eventually, official sheepdog competitions started running in the late s and early s. Border Collies have consistently dominated these competitions over the years. These dogs are energetic and capable of holding their own for over 50 miles in a day. Their rough, shaggy coats protected them from the elements when they spent days on end outdoors with their charges. Even the white markings on their coats serve the purpose of making it easier to spot them in the dark. As they grew in popularity, they began being exported from Great Britain all over the world to people who were looking for good working dogs. But in America, they caught the eye of obedience exhibitors. In , the North American Sheepdog Society was formed with the purpose to promote and protect the breed. Overall, the Border Collie has impressed generations of farmers with their smarts, energy, and willingness to please. Should I Get a Shollie? Now that you know a little bit about Shollies and their parent breeds, your interest may be piqued. However, as with every dog, they require the right type of home and living conditions to be happy. Here are a few things to ask yourself to help determine if your home is the right environment for a Shollie. Do You Have an Active Lifestyle? Shollies like to snuggle with you while you watch TV, but only after a long day of hard work or play. Remember, both parent breeds were developed as working dogs that needed enough energy to traverse dozens of miles in a day. Thus, Shollies require at least an hour of vigorous exercise each day. They need lots of active time and attention. Thus, a home with a large yard or a farm is a more adequate home for these pups. And they will love spending time with people who are active and on the move. The nice thing about adding a dog like this to the family is that they help encourage being active! Fi smart dog collars make it easier than ever. Shollies are very sociable, which means they want to spend time with their families. Are You Committed To Training? You still need to spend time with your Shollie teaching them what is expected of them and how they are to behave. But beyond the basics, you should continue to spend time training your Shollie. They love the mental stimulation of learning new tricks and they are so smart that they are the perfect dog for this. Do You Have Allergies or Asthma? This is a big one as Shollies have a lot of hair. If you or someone in your home has allergies or asthma, this could be a big problem. Both parent breeds have a double coat, which means there is a soft undercoat for warmth and a longer protective coat over the top. Translation — the dog has a lot of hair and they will constantly be shedding it. You can control their shedding somewhat with regular grooming sessions. But you will never get it all. Are Shollies Aggressive? Shollies are a little reticent of strangers. They love their families and can be a little protective if the occasion calls for it. However, they are not aggressive or violent by nature. The Verdict on Shollies So, is a Shollie right for your family? If you are an active family, have a large yard, and are willing to spend time training and stimulating your dog, the Shollie will make a fantastic companion for your family. If you live alone in a little apartment and spend most of your time at work, a different type of dog may be a better fit for your lifestyle. For additional pet-parenting tips, head over to TryFi. And don't forget to check out TryFi's innovative Fi Dog Collar , which offers GPS tracking, activity monitoring, and escape alerts to keep your furry friend safe. Try the Fi Dog Collar today! The link has been copied! You might also like. Is The Shollie For You? The special thing about these dogs is their spectacular looks, more similar to a purebred than to a designer breed. They have aspects of a German Shepherd, with beautiful coats, large and athletic bodies, and expressive eyes. The only things that betray them are the less hairy tail and the floppy ears, both inherited from the Border Collie. Most of these dogs have a tan colored coat, but you can also find black and, in some rare cases, white Shollies. Of course, that thick, long coat will need regular brushing to avoid tangles and poor skin health. The German Shepherd is a highly active breed, developed for work and activity which means they require regular physical exercise. Thus, the combination of these two breeds results in an explosion of high energy! As an owner, you need to make sure your Shollie gets the activity and physical exercise she requires. Just take a look at these beautiful dogs and how they enjoy themselves playing: And the best way to do that would be to adapt an active lifestyle yourself no, this dog is not suitable for couch potatoes like you, Josh. While being playful, Shollies also do quite well on their own, so you can leave them alone at home for short intervals without worrying about them destroying furniture or getting too lonely. So, what activities can you give a Shepherd Collie mix to keep her happy and healthy? Something as simple as giving your dog some fresh air at regular intervals throughout the day should be more than enough to keep him satisfied. How often exactly? According to doctors of veterinary medicine like Amy Moore and Charlotte Cummings, a Shollie requires at least 2 walks every day or a minimum of 2 hours of activity on the daily. Both the German Shepherd and the Border Collie are known for their affectionate nature. A Shepherd Collie loves playing with her owners and will often eagerly await the next time you pick up the ball for a fun round of fetch. Despite being naturally loving and sweet towards their owners, however, the Shollie can manifest a wary side. How can you prevent this type of behavior in your Shollie? Exposing your pup to crowded, high activity environments early on. But it will make them more capable of controlling their impulses when a guest or visitor walks into your home. Police and military forces all over the world commonly use the aid of German Shepherds for a variety of tasks that would otherwise be impossible for people to perform! Sniffing out bombs, illegal substances, and other security threats are just some of the nifty tricks that German Shepherds can be taught. Border Collies, on the other hand, are known to be some of the smartest and most trainable dogs around. This breed quickly takes a number of tasks and jobs with simple repetition. With this type of lineage, you should know that the Shepherd Collie is just as smart. This dog breed loves mental exercise and will often look for something to stimulate her ever active mind. So as her owner, you should be ready with a few cognitive puzzles, games, and tasks that will help give your dog the mental exercise that she needs. For instance, before taking him out for your next walk, think about the place you plan to visit. Instead of going for the typical trail you always follow, consider other areas with more varied smells, sounds, and sights. Something as simple as exposing your dog to new sensory experiences can give them that well-deserved dose of cognitive training. What about dogs that are frequently left at home? As much as possible, I advise you bring your dog along with you when you run errands or go out because this can also give him a chance to stretch his mental muscles. Just hide the kibble in areas of your house where your dog is free to explore, and it will keep your Shollie thoroughly entertained for hours on end. So, how do you go about teaching your Collie Shepherd Mix to alert you in case of an intruder or threat? The first step would be to teach them to stop barking on command. Once your Collie Shepherd perfects this, you can then start teaching her when barking would be acceptable behavior by simulating an intruder or threat. Ultimately, what you want to teach your dog is the ability to discern between harmless guests and potential intruders by showing them the way that threats would behave. So your Shollie should know not to bark or alert you in these instances. Watch this video for more advanced tactics on stopping people aggression in dogs. Some dogs are more predisposed to certain health problems just because of their build and lineage. Responsibly bred Shepherd Collie Mixes will live up to 15 years of healthy life with little to no incidences of disease or illness! Of course, the parent breeds do have their own health problem predispositions that can be passed on to the mix. For instance, German Shepherds are notoriously prone to hip dysplasia. Border Collies, on the other hand, are known to be commonly afflicted with epilepsy. What a Shollie really needs is an owner who can keep up with their high energy, their wit, and their affectionate nature. About Alexandra Animalso I was raised to be a dog person. My first Shepherd grew up as I did and wanted to be where I was at all times. I got my second dog as a 16th birthday present, and her loyalty for me was just as strong as my first. I hope that my contribution to Animalso will help others find dogs who give them that same unconditional love. Other names for these dogs include Border Collie Shepherd mix and a Shollie. The mix breed will usually be athletic and agile, extremely intelligent and quick to learn commands, while displaying a protective and watchful nature. German Shepherd The breed were designed to be a working dog with an athletic physique and noble character. Some of their personality traits include loyal, confident and courageous. The German Shepherd is the second most popular breed in the United States. They need a lot of mental and physical stimulation to ensure these clever dogs behave. How big do German Shepherd Collie Mixes get? To get an idea of the size, we need to look at both the Border Collie and the German Shepherd. German Shepherds can be between 22 and 26 inches in height and 50 and 90 pounds in weight. Border Collies can range between 18 and 22 inches in height and 30 to 55 pounds in weight. So the size range for a German Shepherd Collie mix is between 18 and 26 inches in height and 30 and 90 pounds in weight. What do German Shepherd Collie Mix look like? A German Shepherd Collie Mix can have a variety of different colors. Having said that, the most common shade tends to be solid tan with patches of black. German Shepherds are usually black and tan but Border Collies have a variety of possible coat colors. Therefore, a Shollie could have any combination of black, sable, white, brown and fawn. They should be almond-shaped. Their nose will be black and their ears should be large and triangular in shape. So you can expect a German Shepherd Collie Mix to be a willing learning and eager to please their pet parents. We can say with some degree of certainty that a German Shepherd Collie Mix will be quite loyal to their dogs owners given this is a quality associated with both parents. Giving both breeds are members of the Herding Group, they could be prone to herding small children or other small pets. This is a trait that is associated with the Border Collie. While German Shepherd Collies are loyal and protective, you should never leave one of these dogs alone with a child. The same could be said for any breed of dog no matter how tall or small. These hybrid dogs have a playful nature which they can often get from their Border Collie parent. They should be sociable with other people and other pets. As a general rule, they should learn new commands within five repetitions and obey a first command 90 per cent of the time or better. They require a lot of exercise — regular walks or runs with their dog owner, trips to the dog park, games or playtime in the back yard, as well as mental stimulation. As the saying goes, a tired dog is a happy dog. They need around 12 miles of exercise every week. Are German Shepherd Collie Mix hypoallergenic? Do German Shepherd Collie Mix shed? A Shollie is usually a high shedding dog that will require brushing every day to maintain the health and quality of their coat. By doing so, pet parents will remove dead hair as well as debris. A German Shepherd Collie Mix will blow out its coat twice a year, which will be a challenging time for a dog owners with dog hair all over the home. How long does a German Shepherd Collie Mix live? German Shepherds can live between seven and 10 years. Border Collies have an average lifespan of 12 to 15 years. We can deduce that a German Shepherd Collie mix will have an average lifespan of around 10 to 12 years. German Shepherd Collie Mix health problems Mix breeds are generally considered healthier dogs that purebreds. However, some hybrid breeds can still be susceptible to some health problems. The price can vary between each breeder, who may value certain traits above others. Other potential costs include dog food, pet insurance, grooming, vet trips and much more. Applies to all dog food recalls in the U. Adopting an older dog will decrease the price tag. Lancaster Puppies in Columbus, OH. Owners will have a lot on their hands when grooming this hybrid dog. It is a heavy shedder, making it hard for owners to clean up while trying to keep their coat healthy. The German Shepherd Border Collie mix sheds more often as it grows old, so owners must brush its fur daily to remove dander and dead hair. Here are some of the most recommended grooming equipment to maintain the coat of the German Shepherd mixed with Border Collie: Slicker Brush Slicker brushes are great combs to remove tangles and mats on long-haired dogs. The slicker brush can save owners time when brushing the coat of the German Shepherd Border Collie compared to regular combs. Detanglers Before using a slicker brush, owners will notice that the Border Collie German Shepherd mix has a lot of tangled hair. Dematting sprays can relax and soften the hair to make it easier for owners to untangle the knots. Owners must resort to this solution if the tangles are hard to remove despite the use of detanglers as dogs are not fond of sharp objects. Owners must avoid buying shampoo based on the odor or the low price. Owners must be aware of its coat type and skin to help them find oils and specialty ingredients that will be beneficial for the Border Collie mixed with German Shepherd. Grooming Wipes The German Shepherd mixed with Border Collie is an energetic dog that will be dirty when it finishes playing outside the house. Wet wipes are essential for dog owners that want to prevent mud and grass inside their residence. Microfiber Towel Human towels do not absorb all of the water on a dog. Because of its heavy coat, the German Shepherd Border Collie mix will likely be dripping wet despite a heavy rinsing. Microfiber towels can help remove water on a Border Collie German Shepherd cross better than human towels. The legs and hips of Border Collie German Shepherd will deteriorate as it ages. The hybrid dog will experience problems at an earlier rate depending on its activities as well. It may also be born deaf if one of its parent breeds already have hearing problems. Epilepsy The Border Collie breed is widely known for its tendency to suffer from epilepsy more than other dog breeds. The Border Collie German Shepherd mix may inherit this health problem as well. Epilepsy happens when the dog is experiencing episodic seizures. Fortunately, it is a rare disease among dogs. Degenerative Myelopathy When owners notice that the Border Collie German Shepherd mix is starting to walk funny on its back legs, it can be a symptom of Degenerative Myelopathy. This disease currently has no cure. Irresponsible breeders are the most likely reasons for the health issues of a German Shepherd mixed with a Border Collie. Owners must make sure that they are adopting a healthy puppy from a reputable breeder to avoid dealing with a sickly puppy. If the hybrid dog is exhausted from more training than usual, owners can go for 4 cups a day. Bloat and diabetes are two main health problems that can affect a Border Collie crossed with a German Shepherd as both parent breeds may also suffer from them. It is essential for owners to avoid overfeeding this hybrid dog and prevent nutritional imbalances. In such scenarios, products such as Nutra Thrive dog food supplement can be a solution to regain the proper balance of nutrients. Dog owners and lovers must also keep in mind that they need to seek food for the best large breed dry dog food instead of best dry dog food for small dogs. Whatever you do, make sure you steer clear from the worst dry dog food. Try to learn more about the difference between poor-quality and premium-quality chows by checking our best dry dog food guide! The dog food must include joint supplements because large dog breeds are prone to hip dysplasia and other joint ailments. To avoid this, give them kibble that is rich in calcium since puppyhood. Pooches that have entered their golden years will maintain their health properly only if given the right amount of the best senior dry dog food! Dog food must also contain a moderate amount of calories to avoid obesity, which is a common problem among large breeds. The dog food chosen by owners must also have large kibble to avoid letting the dog eat too quickly, which may result in life-threatening conditions like bloat. Here are a few of the most recommended large breed dog food in the US: Blue Buffalo Life Protection Formula The Blue Buffalo Life dog food is perfect for the German Shepherd mixed with Border Collie because it is full of ingredients rich in antioxidants like kelp, blueberries, sweet potatoes, and carrots. Deboned chicken is also its main ingredient. This brand does not have wheat, soy, or corn. Wellness Core Dog Food The nutritious proteins included in the Wellness Complete Health dog food for large breeds is beneficial for the German Shepherd crossed with Border Collie because it has all the nutrition it needs. This brand contains deboned chicken, salmon meal, and deboned whitefish, which gives the dog food a delicious flavor. It also includes flaxseed, which is an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids. It also provides for different probiotics for the German Shepherd Border Collie mix. Dog for Dog contains vitamins and minerals to give your Border Collie mixed with German Shepherd the nutrition it needs. This whole-grain brand also contains glucosamine, which helps keep joints healthy. Owners on a budget will find this product affordable. It also helps prevent nutrient deficiency with its vitamins and minerals. The brand also comes with glucosamine and chondroitin, which is good for joint health. Eagle Pack Natural consists only of natural ingredients with no artificial colors and preservatives. It also includes eight probiotic strains to keep the hybrid dog healthy. Pro Plan Focus Weight Management Large Breed This brand is beneficial for large dogs because it can supply them with many complex carbohydrates to sustain their energy levels. It is also helpful for the joint because of it contains glucosamine. This brand attacks specific health issues like joint problems or bloating that a German Shepherd mixed with Border Collie may cross. This brand contains joint supplements, probiotic supplements, and fruits and vegetables rich in antioxidants. It is a natural and grain-free product with no artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives. It contains antioxidant-rich vegetables and fruits, as well as premium proteins. This brand is a grain-free product that will give your hybrid dog enough nutrition for its daily activities and exercises. There are a plethora of good choices for them out there, but make sure to find some of the best dry dog food , for example, Wellness Core Dog Food , Dog For Dog Food , or Nutra Thrive dog food supplement. Puppies and senior dogs have different food requirements, so go through the best puppy food brands in case you own a little munchkin and best senior dry dog food for grandpa and grandma pups. A checkup with your vet will help you opt for some of these. Both of its parent breeds are also very active. This hybrid dog does not do well indoors and needs to have a lot of time running and playing with its owners. An owner of a German Shepherd crossed with Border Collie must commit their time to engage this dog in activities if they want to avoid it from becoming bored and destructive. This dog will become aggressive and timid if it does not participate in mental and physical activities. Its daily exercise requires about 60 minutes of running and playing outside of the house. If you happen to raise a Border Collie German Shepherd mix as a calm and independent dog, 2 hours of separate walks daily can keep it satisfied. Where did the German Shepherd Border Collie mix come from? So their history is the combined history of those two breeds! Based on their heritage, it may be assumed that the hybrid was the result of a desire for the ultimate large dog. One that has athletic ability, agility and a protective yet playful nature. There, early Collies were bred to do much the same thing that they do today. Herd and protect livestock. Sheepdogs such as the Border Collie have been in existence for centuries. Modern Border Collies are still excellent working dogs, especially on ranches. Formed to create the ultimate herding or guide dog. In a climate where working outside often meant braving cold weather and damp conditions, the Shepherd dog had to be tough. The GSD eventually became a refined herding breed known for its stamina and work ethic. The AKC formally recognized the breed in .Later, Shepherds became associated with military, police, and service work. All sectors in which you can find them working in today. Nor what color or length their coats will be. Along with the standard colors that are associated with the parent breeds. Adding another level of possibility is the fact that hybrids may look like a mix of their parents. Height and Weight The German Shepherd and Collie mix has the potential to be a medium or large-sized dog. If the pup takes after its GSD parent, then it may mature to somewhere between 80 and 90 pounds. If she takes after her Border Collie parent, then she may only get to about 40 pounds or so. Most pups will fall somewhere in between. You can expect German Shepherd Collie crosses to reach roughly inches at the shoulder. This is a soft undercoat is below a rough top coat. Or it may come out somewhere in between! No matter which parent it resembles more, a Shollie will require weekly brushing. These needs will increase when seasonal shedding occurs. This is a high shedding dog, that will leave fur and dander around your home. They are unfortunately not suitable pets for a home with human dog allergy sufferers. Bringing a hybrid dog into your home, especially a large one such as the German Shepherd x Border Collie? Are German Shepherd Mixes Aggressive? German Shepherds are often found in the police and military sectors. This line of work has made the breed a bit notorious for being aggressive, and unfairly so. German Shepherds should not all be viewed as aggressive dogs. Police and military dogs are highly trained and intelligent animals. Border Collie German Shepherd mixes are naturally very inquisitive dogs. They do not enjoy sitting without a job to do or a game to play. This can sometimes result in destructive behavior. Especially if a Collie is kept cooped up and without toys or other enrichment activities. With all of this in mind, it is likely that a German Shepherd Collie mix will need to be kept as a working or sporting dog. Unless you will be able to exercise him frequently and provide him with things to keep his busy brain focused. Although a hybrid puppy may be an equal mix of its purebred parents. There is also the possibility that the puppy will take after one parent more so than the other. German Shepherd and Border Collie Health Any type of dog, purebred or hybrid, may be afflicted with inherited or age-related health conditions. Such as hip or elbow dysplasia, eye diseases, allergies, and skin irritations. German Shepherd and Border Collie mixes, however, are particularly prone to the conditions that their parent breeds often develop. One thing to note is that both German Shepherds and Border Collies are both prone to hip dysplasia. So Shollies may be especially at risk of developing this condition. This can help to determine what health problems their offspring may be afflicted with. Additionally, be sure that the breeding stock have good hip scores. Shollies can make great family pets for active homes that are interested in positive reinforcement training. For starters, Shollies are medium- to large-sized working dogs that have pretty high exercise requirements. Weight gain is especially concerning for this hybrid, as it is prone to developing hip dysplasia. They need to have something to occupy their intelligent minds, or they may turn your home into a giant chew toy! Border Collie German Shepherd Mix Puppies There are a lot of factors to consider when deciding whether to bring a Shollie puppy into your home. Absolutely not! If you get a Shollie puppy, their naturally intelligent and highly trainable nature means that you can socialize it to other animals and people. Make sure you meet both parents and are happy with their temperaments and health tests carried out by the breeder. Socialize your pup thoroughly and you could end up with a wonderful companion for many years to come. German shepherds were initially bred in Germany in the 19th century and were officially recognized as a breed in .Border collies are primarily sheepdogs that were officially recognized in the British Isles in the 19th century. Both dog breeds are considered highly intelligent, trainable, and agile. This is why German shepherds have been widely adopted as working dogs and are often seen in military and police roles. Border collies frequently compete with great success in sheepdog trials and are considered among the top sporting dogs. Exactly when the Shollie emerged and precisely what breeders were trying to achieve with the new breed is unclear. But the result tends to be a relatively large and athletic dog that is highly intelligent and protective. Thanks to these traits, the Shollie makes an excellent family dog. It is important to remember that, unlike with purebred dogs, when you mix dog breeds, the results are always a bit unpredictable. Shollie Appearance You can expect Shollies to be fairly large dogs with a lean and athletic physique. According to the breed standard, German shepherds tend to measure 22 to 26 inches tall, with males generally an inch or two larger than females. Border collies are a bit smaller, measuring from 18 to 22 inches. Nevertheless, you will rarely see a Shollie that measures less than 20 inches. They typically weigh around 70 to 90 pounds. While these big dogs are gentle, their substantial size means they can misjudge their strength and could accidentally hurt children or older, more fragile individuals. Shollies can be almost any color combination of their parents, including black, brown, golden, and white, and they are almost always a mix of at least two different colors. They often have attractive mottled patterning. Border collies have a warm undercoat with a protective outer coat that tends to be longer and can be either smooth or shaggy. German shepherds also have a warm undercoat with a longer overcoat. You can expect a Shollie to have a similar double coat, probably with quite long hair. This puts them at a fairly high risk of overheating in hot temperatures. They also tend to shed a lot, and their hair can easily become matted if not brushed regularly to remove shedded hairs that have clung to their coat. Shollies look their best when they receive daily brushing. Most Shollies will have brown eyes and a face with a fairly long muzzle. They can either have the pointed ears of a German shepherd or the floppy ears of a border collie. Shollie Temperament: Athleticism Both German shepherds and border collies are working dogs bred for herding, so they are bred to be active. You can expect their Shollie offspring to have a lot of energy and need quite a bit of exercise. Shollies need a minimum of one hour of exercise per day, preferably split into two or three shorter sessions throughout the day. They will appreciate being taken to off-leash dog parks where they can run around without being restricted by the leash. In addition to this, these dogs will love to accompany their family on outdoor adventures, such as hiking trips and walks. They are agile and intelligent and will be able to look after themselves on hiking trails. Shollie Temperament: Trainability Both border collies and German shepherds are highly intelligent, and their offspring tend to inherit this characteristic. They learn quickly and are highly adaptable. Shollies can generally figure out what is needed from them quickly in new situations. Bred as training dogs, Shollies also tend to be easy to please. More independent and stubborn breeds might know what you want but still not give it to you; this is not the case with the Shollie. They can easily become bored if they do not have tasks to keep them occupied. This is why it is always a good idea to teach them tasks, even if they will be living as a family pet. They will also benefit from complex toys like puzzle games to keep them occupied when left alone. If they are left alone for too long without something to stimulate their brain, they may just find their own entertainment. This tends to be the destructive sort of chewing and digging. Shollie Temperament: Independence Shollies tend to want to be part of the family. They will quickly bond with the people they spend a lot of time with and become protective of them. They will often be on alert when other people or animals approach and can display territorial behavior if they feel threatened. They tend to have an affinity for children and enjoy playing with them, though they should always be supervised around small children. Threats to their little people, in particular, can bring out their protective instinct. Are you worried your dog is overly possessive? Watch out for these important signs. These dogs have a tendency to become anxious or depressed if they are left alone for long periods of time. They are not the type of dog you can leave alone at home for several hours while you are at work. Considering a day care service for your dog? Read our tips for choosing the best day care for your dog. When you are at home, be prepared for plenty of love and affection from your Shollie. These dogs will love to be close to you, whether that means sitting at your feet or snuggling up with you on the couch if you let them. They can live anywhere from 13 to 15 years, which is an impressive lifespan for such a large dog. But, as is the case with many large dogs, they can also suffer from joint issues, in particular hip and elbow dysplasia, which is when the joint socket becomes malformed. The best way to avoid this problem is with a healthy diet and plenty of exercise. Ensuring that their calorie intake matches their energy output is key. Overall, Shollies are among some of the healthiest dogs that you will come across. Should I Get A Shollie? Whether or not a Shollie is the right dog for you depends on a variety of different factors. Consider the following questions when determining whether or not to adopt this crossbreed. Where Do You Live? They will do better in a place with a large backyard where they can keep themselves occupied. Shollies need a lot of exercise. They need a minimum of one hour of exercise each day, preferably spread out over a number of short sessions throughout the day. Do you have the energy to walk your dog every day? Shollies are very social animals, and they can become depressed and anxious if they are forced to spend a lot of time on their own. Is there generally someone at home at your place, or is the house empty for several hours at a time when everyone goes to work? Will your dog get the companionship that they need in your house? If not, be prepared for lots of destructive behavior when your Shollie is left alone. Are You Committed To Training? Luckily, Shollies are intelligent and eager to learn, which means even new dog owners should be able to train them fairly easily. But Shollies are also working dogs, and they often need the mental stimulation of having a task to do to keep them occupied. This means training them is not just about controlling their behavior; it is also about keeping them occupied. This is why it can be useful to teach your Shollie tricks. Is this something that you will be willing to do? If not, perhaps a smaller and more passive breed is better suited to your lifestyle. Do you live somewhere that is likely to be too hot for them? There is no escaping the fact that Shollies are shedders, and dealing with dog hair is a fact of life when you have one of these dogs. If you suffer from allergies or asthma, you might want to consider a different dog. Do you have someone who can take in your Shollie when you travel? Alternatively, do you have access to a large kennel that gives them plenty of room? Your dog will suffer if they need to stay in a small cage for a few weeks while you are away. Can You Afford A Shollie? Dog ownership, regardless of the breed you choose, can be surprisingly expensive. While you may already realize that the cost of their food will add up, this is just the tip of the iceberg. Yes, Shollies are excellent dogs, as they are intelligent and trainable pups with a friendly temperament. They are high-energy dogs that need lots of exercise, love, and affection, so they are a big commitment in terms of time, but otherwise they are relatively low maintenance. Are Shollies aggressive? Any dog that has been through traumatic situations can become aggressive. So, if you are adopting an older Shollie that may have come from a difficult home, speak to the adoption agency about any behavioral issues that they might have and how to properly handle them. How much is a Shollie puppy? How much a Shollie puppy costs will depend largely on where you get them from. You may be able to find a Shollie at a local shelter, in which case you may only need to cover the administrative costs of the service. Do Shollies bark a lot? They can be trained not to bark when it is not necessary, for example, when people pass your home. If your dog starts barking a lot for no apparent reason, it can be a sign that there is something wrong health-wise. Which is better, male or female Shollies? Whether you should get a male or female Shollie depends on your priorities. Females tend to be a bit smaller, and they are also more focused on tasks if you want a working dog. Males tend to be more easygoing and less likely to engage in excessively protective behavior. The Verdict On Shollies When you are a first-time dog owner, you are often told to steer clear of the more athletic dog breeds, as they tend to be a handful and need an experienced hand. But if you are looking for a pup to accompany you on all of your adventures, this can be disappointing. If the above sounds like you, then a Shollie, a border collie and German shepherd mix, might be the right pup for you! Shollies are very energetic and athletic dogs that will quickly become part of the family. You will probably want to take them with you on all of your weekend adventures. What you do need, however, is the time and space in your home to take on this boisterous new member of the family. Share your thoughts with the community in the comments section below. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist.

Similar in style to the Rabbitgoo — the Winsee is both a walking and a front range harness. The harness itself is made from a D oxford fabric with high density that prevents your Lab from easily chewing or tearing it. Collar or a Harness for a Labrador Labradors have a lot of energy and require much exercise as a result. Many Labrador owners at first default to giving their Lab a dog collar and walking them that way. After a few weeks of frustration from being dragged around on the street with constant pulling, some consider an alternative to their collars and decide on a dog harness. Pulling in Labradors is not uncommon and something seasoned Lab owners will be familiar with. For first time owners, however, it can be not only frustrating but challenging. It can not only cause discomfort for you, particularly your hands but can lead to discomfort and stress for your dog. Regardless, if your dog is a puller or not — we suggest using a collar solely for ID tags to help identify them should they get lost. Types of Lab Harnesses There are several types of harness out there, which can be a little daunting at first. Labrador Vest Harness Simple, inexpensive and used as a basic walking harness. Often made from plastic, mesh or nylon — they are designed for lightweight general wear and for dogs who are already well behaved on their leash. Back clip dog harnesses have a lead attachment point at the back. A standard leash can be clipped on for normal walking. Front clip harnesses, such as the SENSE-ation, have an attachment point solely at the front of the chest area. These are very different than your traditional harnesses in that the lead only attaches to the front — which may seem odd at first — however, they can often be recommended by trainers as an easier way to reduce pulling. Front and Back clip harnesses have points at both the top back and include a secondary attachment point at the front chest of the harness. One point attaches to the back, the other to the front. This offers increased control of your dog, similar to the reins used on a horse. A no-pull harness is made to reduce the impact of the dog pulling on their lead, as well as aid in the training of your dog. Tightening and Control Harness There are more aggressive than standard anti-pulling harnesses, and tighten when your dog starts pulling. These can be uncomfortable as they can squeeze the dogs chest as they tighten. These harness types are best reserved for experienced dog handlers and trainers. Although often associated with Military and Service dogs, they are also to be found as training harnesses, hunting harnesses or general trekking. Labrador Harness Size and Measurements Standard adult labrador sizes vary, but according to the American Kennel Club , an average male labrador height is between .This places Labs in the category of a medium-large breed, with harness sizes reflecting that. Normally this will be a large-sized harness, though it will vary depending on the manufacturer. To get an accurate measurement for your Labrador and Lab puppy, follow the steps below. Measure The Chest The most crucial part of your measurement is the chest. Take a tape measure and wrap it around the widest part of the chest. This is found a few inches behind the front legs. Add a Few Inches You should all a couple of inches to the total to allow for movement and growth. Take the tape measure and measure around the circumference of the neck. What Makes a Good Labrador Dog Harness Finding the right dog harness can take not only time and effort but patience from you, the owner. Be careful not to select a harness that is likely to fall apart, snap or break when put under strain. Check that the harness fits well and allows for movement. Summary We hope you found our article on the best harnesses for Labradors helpful in making your choice. Dog harnesses are a good alternative to walking your dog on a collar and lead. Harnesses are also great if your dog is a puller. They can also be used for training your dog to stop them from tugging on their leash when walking them. You should also find a harness that fits the size of your breed, as too loose opens them up to escape and too tight can leave them uncomfortable. There's little he doesn't know about dogs. TopDog loves agility but is far too unfit to keep up. Offers advice and articles on dog harnesses, collars, travel, food and temperament. Is woeful at speaking foreign languages. Tru-Fit Harness with Seatbelt from Kurgo Yes, you should prefer a harness as it is better than a collar for your Lab puppy. This is because they are safer and offer much more control. A harness can also reduce strains compared to the collar which can cause tension around the delicate neck of your Lab puppy. The following are some of the biggest advantages of using a harness on your Lab puppy. Injuries Can be Prevented Harness always takes pressure away from the neck of your Labrador puppy. So you can pull the leash without hurting the dog. More importantly, this will help Labs to pull the lead without getting any injuries by themselves. Despite this, you should still teach your dog to not pull on the leash. But with harnesses, there is enhanced space for your dog to grow and it will not put any pressure on the neck of your Lab puppy. Provide Control without Cruelty This is the reverse of the final disadvantage of dog collars. It can be used if you are losing control of your pup. In this situation, you can use sheer force to hold back your Lab without causing undue pain and discomfort. In the case of collar, when you try to stop a fleeing Labrador by applying force, it can cause serious pain. Although Labs may respond quicker when you use collar, it is a very unkind act for pups. When can a Labrador Puppy Climb Stairs? Click here to find out. First thing first, it is important to purchase a proper size harness for your Lab puppy. You should start with a small-sized harness, depending upon the age and size of your puppy. The best way to find out whether the dog harness is too small for your Lab puppy is to put the harness properly on your dog. Start with fairly loose so that your dog can easily slip into the harness. Then, tighten it and check whether the harness fits properly by fitting two fingers between your dog and the harness at any point. Harnesses are a great choice for Lab puppies. However, owners need to choose the one in which their dog remains comfortable. You should start with the small one and move to the bigger sizes depending upon the size of your puppy. A harness should be tight enough so that your dog will stop slipping from it, especially if he suddenly reverses on you. However, if there is still gap after the fitting of two fingers, then the harness is too loose or big for your Labrador puppy. Want to make a good homemade meal for your Labrador Puppy? The Lab puppies can wear a harness when they are 8 weeks old. Owners should make sure that the harness is not too heavy or uncomfortable for their dogs. The following table shows the size of Labrador puppies in comparison to their age so that the owners can choose the best size. Front and back Long lines are best attached from the back The back-attachment point is ideal for long lines. Attaching it to the front risks the entangling of the front legs. A front and back harness gives maximum flexibility. Double ended Two leash attachment points Using a back-attachment point lets you use a double-ended leash. A single-ended leash can tighten the harness when only attached to the front. Different harnesses have variable tightness degrees. One with front and back attachment reduces gaping by balancing tension. Clipping the leash attachments at two points sounds too much, but it is best. Optimal control comes from a properly fitted dog harness. Handling large pets become effortless. Material Material quality is the first factor. Nylon, polyester, and breathable hybrid materials are a few options. The harness must not put much pressure on the neck and throat. The pull should be evenly distributed throughout the chest and body. Look for a harness guaranteeing sturdiness and comfort. Strength A 6 month old lab can also drag you in public. Labradors are naturally inclined to swim, play and have high energy. Labs are famous military dogs. Dogs without no-pull training can be challenging to maintain in long walks. A harness with extra padding provides the required strength. Look for safety features, reliable buckles, and quality stitching only. Size Labradors are medium-sized dogs that mature at six months. But they grow after maturity too. A harness with an adjustable strap is handy. A labrador retriever continues to grow for two years. Opt for a flexible harness that can be adjusted. Adjustability Adjustability is a vital consideration for young pups. Adjustable harnesses fit any body type or size. Ensure the clips are adjustable and well-built. A strong and popular breed like a labrador can break cheap clips. Comfort Double padding is a must for both young and old dogs. A soft harness is comfortable and prevents injuries. Some are only made for running and keep your dog in great shape. Safety Safety features like reflective material is a must-have. It increases dog visibility during early morning or night walks. Labrador retrievers who are likely to escape are more secure with such features. Some come with attached handles for more security. It is easier to grab your pet if they take off. Harnesses with seat belt features are also becoming popular. Durability Durability becomes vital if you buy a harness for the lab puppy. Always pick harnesses with a higher durability rating. An extremely durable dog harness will last from puppyhood to adulthood. Go for fully adjustable ones for the best results. Cost Budget is essential but comes second to quality. Buying cheaper products will make you spend again. Though cheap pet products are pocket-friendly, they lack quality. Get a good harness instead of going for cheap ones. Soft vests are best for puppies and older labradors. A front, rear, or dual clip harness is great for adult labs. From dual clip to step-in harnesses, there are several. Labrador Vest Harness These are basic walk harnesses. They are simple, lightweight, and inexpensive and made of mesh, plastic, or nylon. Dog owners with well-behaved dogs on leashes can get these. But the front and back clip harness can be attached at all the points. A double-ended leash is required for the front clip attachment. One point is attached at the front and another at the back. It provides more control over your escape artist. A no-pull dog harness minimizes the pup pulls without hurting them. Tactical Dog Harnesses These are popular for training, trekking, and hunting. Besides labs, it is ideal for other dog breeds, like German Shepherds. Military and service dogs wear tactical harnesses often. Tightening and Control Harness These harnesses are more aggressive than standard ones. They will tighten when your dog pulls. Dog chests can be squeezed on tightening. Experienced trainers and dog handlers use them best. Not sure which chest piece is right for your dog? Our list comprises of the 10 best harnesses for labradors. They are made from sturdy material and have the necessary safety features. Now lets look at all the harnesses one by one. A good labrador harness requires time, effort, and patience to buy. Avoid cheap harnesses that can snap, fall apart, or break. Ensure the chest piece fits well and is not tight. The dog must move with ease wearing the harness. The no-pull harness alone is not enough. Train your labrador retriever for adequate results. Measure the neck and the chest for an accurate fit. Add two inches to the chest measurement in case your lab gains weight. Check the tightness after fastening the clips and buckles. Your two fingers must fit to ensure it is comfortable. If not, then it is too tight. But a harness is comfortable and makes training straightforward. Lab puppies may bite the leash too much initially. However, showing patience will go a long way. Here are a few tips to acclimatize dogs:- Positive reinforcement training is best to accustom your lab. Giving them treats or toys when they follow commands is beneficial. Start slow and small. Place the harness on the floor and let them explore. Let the dog get used to the buckles and leash. You can treat them for being brave and sniffing. Put on the harness if you see progress. Let the dog walk around wearing the harness. Even if it is for a few minutes, treat them. Start with small neighborhood strolls if the dog is confident. Increase the walk durations gradually for smoothness. Irrespective of their style, you need the best harnesses for effective energy management. These athletic dogs are up for everything from trekking to hunting. You need a high-quality harness for your lively pooch. The best harnesses for labradors are:- RabbitGoo is best if you want to control your large lab easily. Kurgo Tru-Fit Smart is for labradors having frequent car rides. Eagloo dog harness provides maximum comfort with its breathable material. Each harness offers unique features and benefits. The final call comes down to your requirements. Harnesses are better suited for walking dogs. Collars are more comfortable and hold the ID. Vets suggest using a harness for many dogs with breathing issues. Should a Labrador wear a harness? Labradors are athletic and sturdy. Having a harness makes them easier to manage. Be it walks, hikes, or treks, they are secured. What size harness for lab puppy is best? You will need at least a 9-inch long collar for a lab puppy. Most labrador retrievers fit into the large harness category. For accuracy, take labrador measurements. How do I stop my Labrador from pulling on the leash? Starting leash training with a harness early is suggested. Teach them self-control and practice attention. Treat them when the position is correct. Do not let pulling reinforce. Should I use a collar or harness for my Lab? Dog Harnesses are considered humane for pets. They give more control than collars. Different harness types also make it easier to choose for your lab pup. What size harness for 8 week lab puppy? The size range for a small harness for an 8-week-old Labrador puppy is: Chest: inches. Instead, they can prevent injuries from a dog getting tangled in their leash or pulling too hard with a collar. We consider them an excellent training aid that makes using a leash easier for both you and your pup. Many include other features that are handy, such as lift handles for dogs that need help standing. Type and Construction A Retriever is a good-sized dog, weighing anywhere from 50—80 ponds. Therefore, you need a harness that can control him and is durable enough to stand up to the challenge. There are several types, each one with its pros and cons. This style is an excellent choice for pups that get tangled in their leash because it keeps it away from their feet. The force of the leash goes to his back, instead. However, if your pooch is muscular with less-than-perfect leash manners, you may find him harder to manage with this type of harness. Front-Clip Harness The front-clip harness puts you in charge of your pup while requiring less work on your part. You can easily redirect him if necessary. The tightening harness takes care of that issue with a gentle tug that gets your Lab back on point. Just as with an unruly stallion, this type will give you control over your larger Retriever. Kind of Closure There are also several variations on the type of closure and how it secures on your Lab. It is the most popular option. There are also quick-release and bolt-on products. Material Nylon, by far, is the most common harness material. It offers a lot of advantages for Lab owners. They are lightweight. They will also dry quickly after a romp in the lake chasing a ball. These products are also affordably priced and excellent value for the money. You can get a blaze orange one for hunting and another in your choice of many colors and designs. Mesh is another popular choice for the same reasons. Another option for your water-loving pooch is neoprene for those winter walks. Other choices include polyester, canvas, and fleece. We prefer products that you can wash in between uses. A waterproof product is a welcome addition we appreciate. If you take your dog for evening walks, a reflective harness is a must-have. Other options you may find are padding over the chest portion for added comfort, personalization, and dual-clip items that you can attach in front or back. We liked the extra security that this last feature offers. However, the most important thing is comfort, especially if your pup pulls. Most products include a range of inches for each of the key measurements. A harness is not like buying a pair of pants for yourself. Many have different systems of adjusting the size. You need to take three measurements. Finally, you must find out the length of his back. Bear in mind that not all products will specify these three. Some only consider the chest size with adjusting parts for the others. We recommend two inches or the width of two fingers between the strap and your dog. The point is to make it snug to prevent escaping but not too tight to make your pup uncomfortable. After all, avoiding neck damage is one reason that pet owners opt to use a harness over a collar. We also suggest looking at the kind of adjustment on the harness. A sliding one with a clasp gives you a lot more leeway as opposed to a buckle, which has set holes. Of course, it is a fine balance between security on both ends of the spectrum. Its comfortable design was one of the most important features we considered. It provides the necessary snugness without the tightness that can make wearing it irritating. The Sporn Non-Pull Mesh Dog Harness is our pick for best value, thanks to its lightweight design that stands up to pullers. The research for our reviews taught us a vital lesson. These products are highly specialized for the dog, its leash manners, and the amount of control you must have over your Lab. These pups often make simple things like walks a challenge. However, with the right harness, it becomes a non-issue. Featured image credit: PxHere. The critical difference is the degree of dressing up required. This is a moment of personal reflection: do you have a tough time getting out of the house to take your Labrador for a walk? Minimizing the effort required to take your dog walking will ensure that you actually take him out. If your Labrador pulls on his lead, the pressure can quickly start producing irreversible damage. Can Trouble Dogs Even the most humane collars can bother some Labradors. Most new puppies might have trouble accepting a heavy collar. Starting with a light collar at an early age can offset this disadvantage. Some dog trainers can lead-train dogs with collars by building on a foundation of familiarity set by owners who get their dogs to accept light collars early on. This means both products need to be able to cater to different sizes. Most harnesses can house a range of body sizes. But when it comes to collars, your Labrador might start choking on the collar without you realizing it. Adjustable collars can offset this problem. In my opinion, even if you have compassionately trained your Labrador to accept his collar and even go on long walks with the lead attached to the said collar, what happens when your dog gets over-excited? It is quite literally impossible to hold him in position without choking him. Verdict on Dog Collars Dog collars are great to indicate ownership and protect your Labrador from being assumed and treated as a stray. Apart from that, I see no advantage in collars, especially when walking on a lead. So a nuanced approach would be to use a light collar and use a harness whenever you use a lead so that you can sidestep the dangers of lead walking a puppy with a collar. More importantly, your Labrador can pull the lead without hurting himself. More Room for Error If your Labrador puppy wears a collar, you need to follow his growth closely lest the collar begins choking him. Above all, it is more noticeable when your puppy outgrows his harness compared to when he outgrows his collar. In the worst-case scenario, you get to hold back your Lab with sheer force without hurting him as much. Tugging on a collar when your Labrador is trying his best to get away is heartless. That said, you should note that dogs give in more easily when their collar is tugged compared to holding back a harness. The ease, however, is mutually exclusive with kindness in this instance as a submission comes through the pain with a collar. In other words, a harness is something you would want on your pup only on walks. Most well-trained Labradors can go without a harness for short walks, and the harness is left for lead walks. Your Dog Will Take Time to Get Used to It This is a size-driven disadvantage that seems like a logical tradeoff when compared to the burden it offsets. I believe removing cruelty from the equation is well worth the relatively long waiting period. Starting with a light harness with a young Lab puppy is a perfect way to normalize it. Both collars and harnesses are uncomfortable initially, and in the long run, your dog can get used to both. While some trainers make arguments for collars, they are almost exclusively positioned as okay for larger dogs with stronger necks. This makes a harness your only option when out walking. Should a Labrador Wear a Harness? We have already established that harnesses are gentler than collars on Labradors. So, this may have you wondering, should Labradors wear a harness? A Labrador should wear a harness so that you can control him when he gets over-excited on a walk. A harness also allows your dog to keeps his neck safe when you have him on a tight leash. Doing the same with a collar could cause choking, damage to the trachea, or nerve damage. Harness vs. Collar For a Labrador Puppy Harness Advantages Prevents injuries to the neck Allows a lost dog to be identified from a tag Allows more control Easier to wear for tracking Allows room for growth. There is therefore no risk of the harness rubbing behind the legs. There are no martingale attachments anywhere on this harness, so there is nothing to tighten anywhere when the dog pulls. The Balance harness has both front-and-back attachment points. Just like all front-and-back attachment harnesses, this gives you great flexibility. The harness is really good quality and the metalware is likewise. This means that dogs that dislike having something placed over their heads, can have the Balance put around their neck in a similar way to a snap-up collar. Any gaping really is very minimal when both attachment-points are used, even less than on the Freedom. It is essentially always a black harness, but the vertical strap on the back comes in different colors. If you have multiple dogs, the colored back strap is sufficient for telling you which harness belongs to which dog. But if you are someone who loves different colored harnesses, the Balance may not suit — check out the Freedom. According to the manufacturer, you can attach just to the front-attachment point. But the Balance works best when used in conjunction with a double-fastening leash. So you will need to purchase one separately. The Balance harness does tend to rotate slightly when in use. The neck and girth straps slightly pull the colored back strap off vertical. If this troubles you, check out the Perfect Fit below. Similarly, it would be really hard for even a seasoned escapologist to back out of a Perfect Fit harness. For a growing Labrador puppy, it is possible just to purchase and replace one piece of the three needed for a harness. Should the chewing-machine that is your Labrador puppy, succeed in chewing through the front of the harness, again, just that part would need to be replaced. The Perfect Fit also has a 40mm thick option. This is a very comfortable and stylish-looking harness for large or strong Labradors. The Perfect Fit harness has both front-and-back attachment points, just like the Freedom and Balance, giving the same flexibility. It is safe to be left on the dog when running off-leash. The harness is webbing, backed by soft fleece. This makes for a really comfortable and soft harness, for your Labrador. This means that dogs which dislike having something placed over their heads, can have the Perfect Fit put around their neck. The front-attachment is a large metal D-ring. My plan is to wrap the metal D-ring in duck tape, to silence it. You will need to purchase one of those separately. I anticipate this getting worse with the next few washes. This does not affect the comfort or function of the harness, obviously. Labs love to swim, and have been known to roll in stinky things! Ordering Issues? Lastly, I should say that I had heard about the Perfect Fit harness for about a year before I finally bought one to trial. Selecting three different-sized component parts for a harness and choosing a width of strap is a much more involved process than choosing one size. The Dog-Games website has become a lot easier now, with breed recommendations, but some buyers might still find it confusing. And my top three picks of front-and-back fastening harnesses for Labrador Retrievers are:.

All dogs are unique and grow at their own rate. Pro Tip: Check out our complete guide to puppy care to ensure your Lab gets off to a great start. As a medium to large breed, Labrador Retrievers need at least one year to reach their full size. A general rule of thumb suggests your Lab should be at or close to its full size by their first birthday. However, bigger-boned Lab puppies can keep growing and filling out their chest up to 18 months old. How big should a 6-month-old Labrador Retriever be? The average Lab weight at six months old is about 40 to 55 pounds for males or 30 to 35 pounds for females. Please keep in mind that these numbers are averages, and every puppy will grow at a slightly different rate. How much bigger will my Labrador Retriever get? There are three ways to predict the size of a Labrador Retriever at maturity: Age. Labrador Retrievers typically reach their full height and weight around their first birthday. Larger Labs may need up to 18 months to fill out their chest, but any weight gain after 12 months should be minimal overall. If your Lab is less than a year old, they are likely still growing and putting on muscle to reach their adult size. Paw Size. If their paws look oversized next to their legs and body, then they are probably still growing, as this is a classic puppy feature. Lastly, if you purchased your Lab through a breeder, you can contact them for a more exact height and weight estimate. What is the size of a full-grown Labrador Retriever? A full-grown Labrador Retriever weighs between 65 and 80 pounds and stands about .The average weight of a full-grown female Labrador Retriever should be about 55 to 70 pounds, standing at .Make sure to consult with your veterinarian to ensure that your Lab is maintaining a healthy weight for its body size. The Labrador Retriever growth rate should be indicative of its athletic body and muscular build. Did you know. ? Their webbed paws made them strong swimmers, along with their otter tail, which acts like a powerful rudder when retrieving ducks. English nobles spotted the dogs and brought them home across the Atlantic, where breeders continued to refine the breed into its own variation. Between their friendly demeanor, adaptability, and outgoing disposition, they make ideal family members. As cherished members of our families, Labs deserve the best care. Unfortunately, like many other purebred dogs, Labrador Retrievers are more susceptible to various health issues. Some of the most common examples include:. When do labs Stop Growing? Labs need to fill out more than smaller breeds as they are medium to large-sized dogs. Usually, an average Lab will be at full height and weight by their first birthday. Is Your Labrador Retriever Healthy? Labrador Retrievers are the perfect family pet. Not only are Labs wonderful companions, but their friendly demeanor, adaptability, and love for life make them ideal members of any household. The best way to guarantee that happiness? Preventative care! This condition can cause pain and make it difficult for your pup to move freely. Due to CHD, they may also develop arthritis in the hip area as they age. Some dogs with CHD have normal hips as puppies, but they can develop joint instability later in life. Unfortunately, CHD affects medium to large dog breeds, with the Lab amongst those dogs with a higher chance of developing this condition. Recognizing the early signs of this progressive disease will help you get treatment for your dog so he has an active life filled with joy instead of pain or discomfort. An old Labrador Retriever is especially prone to developing this disease. Osteoarthritis, or Degenerative Joint Disease DJD , is a progressive inflammation of the joints caused by deterioration and breakdown in cartilage. This action leads to an increase in friction, which causes significant pain for dogs. In cases of osteoarthritis, this cartilage cushion begins to break down because of factors such as age or injury. If a dog has canine atopic dermatitis, the immune system reacts too strongly to common environmental allergens absorbed through the skin, such as mold spores and grass. A dog with atopic dermatitis will typically show signs and symptoms between 3 months to 6 years of age. Labrador Retrievers are amongst the most common dog breeds to develop food and skin allergies. Gastric Distention and Volvulus Bloat Canine bloat , or gastric distention and volvulus GDV , is a condition where the stomach swells abnormally. Bloat is a serious condition that requires immediate emergency care. Dogs of all shapes and sizes can bloat, but some breeds are more susceptible than others. Unfortunately, Labradors are at the top of the list for susceptibility to this condition. The causes of bloat in Labs and other dogs are unknown, but there is likely a genetic element. Dogs who recover from bloating should never be used as breeding stock again. Got a Lab? Get Pet Insurance Coverage You love your dog like a child, but you cannot control what your puppy is dealt with in the genetics department. Health struggles can affect your Labrador Retriever, and his genes will determine what medical conditions or diseases he develops. What if cancer happens? What else might go wrong with your dog in an emergency that will require immediate attention? As a dog owner, you want to make sure that your Lab pup has the best chance possible at living a healthy and happy life. A pet insurance policy will handle any medical issue or expense which may come your way, which is a significant help, especially with how expensive veterinary bills can get. Get insurance quotes today and see for yourself how much better life will be with this coverage. Between 8 weeks and 10 months, your puppy has a ton of growing to do, and they change drastically from month to month. Each stage of growth requires specific attention, exercise, and diet, so there is much to learn and pay attention to these different growth stages. There may be behavioral challenges while your pup adjusts to their new life without their mother and siblings. This period of adjustment can sometimes lead to fearful and timid behavior, and your puppy will need as much attention and affection as possible. They should be eating 3—4 small meals a day at this stage. You can begin basic command, leash, and potty training at this point too. Although the schedule is not complete this is a critical period to begin socialization and making sure they are calm and friendly with other dogs, just make sure they are also vaccinated. We highly recommend making training a part of their daily activities at this age. Biting can be an issue at this stage too, as they will begin teething, and they will start exploring and chewing whatever they can find. Chew toys and consistent command reinforcement are both vital for avoiding this behavior. The good news is that your puppy will grow out of this habit at around 6 months old. Your lab should also be house-trained by this point, but there may still be the occasional accident. Remember to be gentle but firm when this happens, and your pooch will likely move through it swiftly. They will begin losing their baby teeth at this point, and biting and chewing may reach its peak. Firm but gentle commands, chew toys, and loads of patience are essential at this stage. Your puppy will be testing the limits and may start showing dominance, ignoring known commands, and asserting more independence. You can now drop their meals down to two meals per day, but be sure that they are not eating too quickly. Your puppy will start to closely resemble an adult at 6 months, but remember that mentally, they are still puppies and will need loads of direction and training. Females may enter their first heat at 6—7 months, so keep a careful watch for stray males. They will still display puppy tendencies and traits and have a ton of excitable energy, but they should be fairly obedient and well-trained by this stage. Be sure to give your Labrador plenty of exercise at this stage to help keep them from misbehavior. They will have reached their full height by now but may still gain weight and muscle mass in the coming months. Unless you intend on breeding, you should consider neutering and spaying your puppy to avoid wandering and unwanted pregnancies. While some breeders recommend that you wait until a year old, this is a perfectly suitable time to perform the procedure. They may still gain weight and muscle mass but much slower than during the past few months. They will still display puppy characteristics and even test boundaries, but all in all, they should be obedient and well-trained by now. They will have a ton of energy and still enjoy playtimes and loads of exercise. While they are at their full height at this age, some Labs may appear lanky and still have weight to fill out in the coming months. When Do Labradors Stop Growing? All dogs are unique, and the question of when they stop growing is largely dependent on the individual. Anecdotally, your Lab should have reached their full weight by 18 months and full height by 9—12 months. Most breeders agree that your Lab will stop growing at some point during their second year. Even so, any weight gain during their second year will be minimal, and they will have done the majority of their growth by their first birthday. Mentally, they are out of the puppyhood phase of testing boundaries and disobedience by their first year— if correctly trained. If you have been consistent in training thus far, your Lab should be friendly, obedient, and well-behaved from their first birthday and into adulthood. In males, neutering can sometimes result in a calmer, more relaxed dog, and this, in turn, will slow down his need for exercise and may result in weight gain. A study in showed that dogs neutered before 37 weeks may gain more weight, while dogs that had the procedure after 37 weeks had a slower growth trajectory. The difference was minimal, though, and there is no reason to assume that these procedures have much of an effect on growth rates in dogs. Dangers of Growing Too Quickly or Stunted Growth While some puppies may grow quicker or slower than the agreed-upon average, this is usually nothing to be concerned about due to the individual and unique nature of dogs. However, if your pooch is gaining weight rapidly or not gaining enough, there may be deeper issues to look into. If your dog is from working or hunting stock, they may be smaller than average Labs and are usually lighter for work in the field. Size may also be genetic, and if your Lab comes from small parents, they will be smaller than average. The same may be true of heavier-than-average Labs—if their parents are large, they will likely be similar in size. However, larger-than-average weights may also be due to overfeeding or a lack of exercise , or a combination of both, so be sure to keep their exercise and feeding habits consistent. Image Credit: rebeccaashworth, Shutterstock Growth Distinctions of Different Labradors Although they are designated under the same breed, there are two different types of common Labradors: English and American. English Labradors tend to be stockier and more muscular than their American counterparts and have a thick, waterproof coat , while American Labs have a slender build with a slightly finer coat. English Labs are slightly shorter, topping out at around 22 inches, but their stocky and muscular build often makes them heavier than American Labs. In fact, English Labs have been known to weigh up to 20 pounds more than American Labs without being considered overweight. American Labs are known to be slightly more active and energetic than English Labs, while English Labs tend to be less excitable and more laid back. English Labs are by no means lazy, though, and they still have plenty of energy and stamina to go around. Conclusion: Monthly Labrador Growth Pictures Hopefully, this guide has helped you understand the growth rate of your Labrador puppy and given you a better idea of what to expect during the different stages. See also:. Can you tell how big a puppy will get? Your puppy will be growing very fast when you first bring them home. But that growth rate slows down quite quickly. So when do dogs stop growing for good? And how will you know when your puppy has reached their adult size? Labrador Puppy Growth Chart We have a fascinating and long running thread on our forum, where members enter the weights of their puppies at different ages. The Labrador growth chart below shows the data we have collected, in a Labrador weight chart by age. Labrador dog weight chart by age and breed Each dot represents a snapshot in time of an individual puppy. You can find his or her age in weeks along the bottom of the chart and his weight in pounds up the left hand side. You can see how all the dots taken together follow a pattern, but there is still a considerable range of puppy weights at each age. When Do Dogs Stop Growing? But what about a two year old Lab, or a one year old? Well, in broad terms, dogs stop growing sometime between one and two years old. But it varies between breeds. Most dogs are fully grown by their first birthday. In general small breeds reach their adult height several months before large breeds do. Yet dog size varies greatly among individuals, even within the same breed. Larger dogs are often slower to mature than little dogs, and carry on growing for longer. Small dogs are sometimes fully grown by the time they are 9 months old. Whereas giant breeds can take up to three years to reach full size. Adult size, temperament, and coat type are all likely to affect energy requirements, and affect the rate a puppy grows. In fact even breeds which end up similar in size can grow at very different rates. There is very little scientific research — but a lot of anecdotal evidence — about when Lab puppies stop growing. In , a UK study following 37 Lab puppies through to adulthood revealed that all of them had reached their adult weight by their first birthday. But more recently, a much larger lifestyle study of over 4, UK Labradors found that their weight continued to increase between one and four years old. When Do Labs Stop Growing? The Labrador puppy growth chart finishes when the dog reaches adulthood. General wisdom from breeders, vets, and experiences Labrador owners is that Labs stop growing during their second year. In fact, he will be quite close to his final adult Labrador height at around nine months of age. Does color change the Labrador puppy growth chart? When is a chocolate Lab full grown? Is it the same time that a full grown black Labrador or yellow Lab? So your average chocolate Lab will be adult sizes at the same time as the average yellow or black Lab. How Quickly Do Labradors Grow? Our Labrador puppy growth chart shows that all Labrador puppies follow the same breed specific pattern of growth spurts and slower growth, even though the actual numbers on the scale will vary from individual to individual. The most rapid period of growth will take place in the first month or so after you bring him home. In , a study of Labrador puppies in Norway found that Labrador weight gain is most rapid at 89 days old in females, and 95 days old in males. So around the week mark. And Labradors usually reach half of their adult weight by the time they are 18 or 19 weeks old. How much do Labs grow after 6 months? Another trend you can see in our Labrador puppy growth chart is that Lab puppies gain weight much less rapidly after their 6 month birthday. Once your Lab has hit this milestone you can expect them to gain a little height, and probably continue to fill out for up to a year or so. In other words, the point when you Lab stops getting any taller. It is estimated that in the UK the average height at the shoulders of a male Lab is cm taller than the breed standard. Will my dog still grow after being neutered? Whether or not dogs should be routinely spayed or neutered is a subject which divides opinion. Labrador owners deciding whether and when to neuter usually end up with a lot of questions, few of which have straightforward answers. Many veterinary care providers and shelters advocate neutering at a young age, or even make it a requirement of the adoption contract. A study found that neutering before 37 weeks old is linked to very slightly more rapid growth, and neutering after 37 weeks leads to very slightly slower growth. How big do Labrador Retrievers get? As we all know, very few dogs fit the mathematical average — they are much more likely to occupy a range of normal sizes. But most of us like a more precise answer than that before we commit to sharing our home with a puppy. So, how big do Labs get? Labradors are remarkably variable in height and weight. The biggest male Labs can be almost twice the size of the smallest female ones. But you want me to give you some numbers, so here are some averages. Many adult female Labradors reach a weight of lbs and stand inches high at the shoulder. This will be the same whether they are a female chocolate Lab or a female black Labrador. Many adult male Labradors reach a weight of lbs and stand inches at the shoulder. But remember, your dog is probably not an average dog! Can you always predict size with a Labrador puppy growth chart? These Labrador height and weight numbers are very broad guidelines, and they may give you a rough idea of how big a pup will grow. How big your Labrador will get depends partly on his parents. Assuming that your puppy had healthy not overweight parents, their own weights will give you an idea of how big your Lab is likely to grow. But there are always surprises in any group or family of dogs! Has your puppy stalled on the Labrador puppy growth chart? It is possible that your puppy will weigh less than the average examples. Labrador puppy weight and size can vary widely depending on a number of different factors, many of which are normal and harmless. American Labrador puppy growth Labrador puppies from working stock are often less heavy than those bred for the show ring or pet homes. Dogs bred for hunting and field trials tend to be faster and lighter in build because they are expected to be agile and quick when working in the field. Small parents Size is also partly genetic. In other words, if your puppy had small parents he might well be on the small size for his age, throughout his life. Again, this is only a general guide. Even puppies from the same litter can vary quite considerably in size when plotted on a Labrador puppy growth chart. How much should my Labrador puppy weigh? But this kind of rule of thumb is of limited use, and there are problems with judging whether or not a puppy is thriving by his weight alone. Because it is so difficult to know exactly what size your puppy will be as an adult, no-one can really say what he should weigh today, or any other day. It may however give you an indication if your puppy is seriously under or overweight. It is rare for puppies to have any kind of growth disorder. Or for their families to starve them by mistake! But it is also normal to worry a little if your puppy seems on the small side. Is my puppy is too fat or too thin? The very best guide to whether a puppy is the right weight for him, is how he looks and feels. Not where he falls on an average Labrador puppy growth chart. Physically examining and observing your puppy will help you decide if they are doing ok in this respect. Just like older Labradors, puppies should not be too heavy. Most experts nowadays like to see a waist on even quite young puppies. Does it matter if my puppy is a bit plump? We all used to think that puppy fat was a good thing. When I was a child fat puppies were the norm. Perhaps this extra layer of fat was helpful in sustaining the puppy during illness before vaccinations were widely available for dogs? Nowadays, the thinking is that puppies should be slim. With a defined waist, just like an older dog. It causes their bones to grow too rapidly as well. And this may result in painful skeletal abnormalities in later life. Chubby Lab puppies might be plotted higher than average on the Labrador puppy growth chart, but if they are a shorter stature they could be following the line. You need to assess your pup by how they look and feel. Weighing your puppy If your puppy has been ill and is very thin, or if he has become rather overweight , you might consider weighing him in order to monitor his progress on a Labrador puppy growth chart of your own. If you can see his ribs, or feel them very easily just beneath his skin, your Labrador puppy is too thin. If in doubt, check with your veterinarian. You can show them your Labrador puppy growth chart too, so they have a good idea of how they are progressing. My dog weighs 35lbs at six months old. Is that OK? I mentioned above that an average Labrador might weigh around 50lbs at six months old. But there is huge variation around this figure. To illustrate how much very healthy puppies may vary, there are 6 month old Labs on our forum weighing 30lbs, and others weighing 60lbs! These are very different points on the same Labrador puppy growth chart, but could both be healthy animals. And the truth is, no-one can tell you exactly what your six month old pup should weigh, or indeed your Labrador of any age. What age does a puppy turn into a dog? When does a puppy no longer belong on a Labrador puppy growth chart but instead have reached their adult size? And when will your puppy be a fully grown up dog? There are three aspects to changing from puppy to dog: physical maturity and mental maturity. Sexual maturity in puppies People are often surprised to discover that puppies become sexually mature before they are full grown. These sexually mature pups still belong on the Labrador puppy growth chart, and will gain weight and height. Most Labradors are physically capable of breeding while still puppies. Though of course they should not be allowed to do so. Many female Labradors come into season for the first time between at between six and nine months old. Though some will be over a year old. And most male Labradors are ready and willing to mate well before their first birthday! Mental maturity in puppies Not only is your Labrador physically still a puppy when he or she reaches sexual maturity. He is also very much a puppy mentally and emotionally. In fact, many experts do not consider a Labrador to be fully grown up and mature until they are around two years old. In practice, there is no exact age at which you can definitely say your puppy is a grown up. Some puppies mature mentally and physically quicker than others. As a broad guide, you will often hear people use 18 months as the divide between Labrador puppy and adult dog. When do dogs stop growing? Most Labradors will have completed much of their growth by their first birthday and will stop growing completely before their second. Beyond this point there is no need to plot their weight on a Labrador puppy growth chart, but instead they should just be monitored physically. Weights vary greatly among individuals of this breed and puppy weight unless very extreme, is not a great guide to health. Enjoy your puppy for what he is, large Labrador or small. Just remember to check with your vet if you think he is unwell or not growing as he should. Is your Labrador puppy still growing? Do you think the runt of the litter is going to surprise you by reaching the upper end of the scale? Were your predictions at X months completely confounded? Share your anecdotes in the comments box down below! The Lab puppy weight chart shows you the average weight for male and female Labs every month from 2 months old, up until 12 months if you have a puppy Lab, check out our New Puppy Checklist to learn more about what to bring home for your first 24 hours and beyond. Doing so helps you and your veterinarian keep your puppy healthy. Are There Different Sizes of Labradors? Among the retriever breeds, the Labrador is one of the largest, where an adult male can top the scales at 80 pounds. Labrador Retrievers may differ in size due to individual variation and outside influences, such as the amount or type of food they eat, the amount or frequency of exercise they get, or underlying health conditions that may affect appetite or growth. But overall, a retriever should ideally hit a 5 out of 9 on the body condition score, regardless of the actual weight number on a scale. A healthy size Labrador has an evident abdominal tuck and observable waist, viewed from both the side and top of the dog. The AKC considers Lab puppies to be in adulthood when they reach 12 to 18 months of age, though there are outliers — those who grow faster or slower, reaching maturity either before 1 year old or not until 2 years old. Like other large dog breeds, Labs go through multiple stages of puppyhood until they reach adulthood. The average height for Labrador puppies is largely unknown due to insufficient data, but the average adult Labrador Retriever gets to be about inches tall at the shoulder. These numbers are contingent on the puppy receiving top-notch care, good nutrition, and appropriate levels of exercise. Different factors, such as health, breeding practices, and nutrition, may alter these estimated numbers. The below Labrador weight calculator can help you determine approximately how big your Labrador will be. But there are dogs who will fall outside of these parameters. The Waltham Petcare Science Institute offers puppy growth charts for veterinarians to use with their clients. You can also learn more about the ideal size and weight at different ages for different breeds with our Goldendoodle growth chart , a Golden Retriever size chart , Great Dane growth chart , or Chihuahua size chart. For that advice, consult your veterinarian. However, their weight can vary quite a bit. Male and female Labrador Retrievers vary slightly in size. According to the official breed standards of the AKC , males weigh about pounds, while females weigh pounds. Almost all dogs fall within this guideline, though there may be a few rarer dogs just on the outside of the weight guidelines. Because of how carefully bred these dogs often are, this is extremely rare, though. Male Labrador Retrievers stand between .Females stand at .As you can see, males Labrador Retrievers can be a bit larger than females, though they may not necessarily be. This is particularly true for American Labs. In other countries, the weight and height minimum for males is often higher than it is in America. What does a 4-month Labrador Retriever weigh? From their birth to about six months, Labrador Retriever puppies grow very rapidly. Right after birth, they often gain about two pounds a week or more. This rapid weight continues as the puppy ages. By four months, most Labrador Retrievers weigh about 25 pounds. Smaller dogs will often stay smaller at this point, while larger dogs often stay bigger. How big is a 6-month-old Labrador Retriever? Labrador Retrievers should continue to gain at least two pounds a week until they reach six months old. Most of them will gain even more than this, putting the average weight of a 6-month-old Lab at 50 pounds. That is double what they weighed at four months. However, six months does mark the end of this rapid period of growth. The average Labrador will typically start growing slower at this point, though they will still grow for quite a while. When is a Labrador Retriever fully grown? Most Labrador Retrievers reach their full height at around six to 12 months. Typically, they grow very quickly in the first six months of their life, but this growth slows down considerably after the sixth month. After that, they may still continue to gain a little bit of height, but their full adult height has basically been reached. Many dogs are often lanky during this period for this reason. However, once they reach their full height, the calories can be put towards muscle gain and fat storage. Too many calories can make the dog grow too quickly, which can cause hip dysplasia and other problems. Your dog will have plenty of time to bulk up. Because all Retrievers such as also Flat-Coated and Golden Retrievers are very food-motivated, you need to be careful to not overfeed your dog. Is a Labrador a medium or large dog? Technically, a Labrador Retriever can fall into either the medium or large category. They straddle the line as a breed. Individual dogs will either fall at the upper end of the medium category or rest just inside the large category. For this reason, they are often described as medium-to-large-sized dogs. What is a healthy weight for a Labrador? This depends on the dog. The health range for a Labrador is pounds if they are a male and pounds if they are a female. That is a large range. A dog that is naturally 55 pounds would be terribly overweight at 80 pounds. They will be able to accurately weigh your dog and determine if they are a healthy weight or not. Why is my Labrador so skinny? Many Labradors will appear skinny as puppies. It takes them until about the age of two to bulk up to their adult weight. They will bulk up naturally as they age. Gaining weight too fast can put unnecessary strain on their joints, which can cause health problems further down the road. It may seem that your Lab practically stops growing after about six months. However, they do have growth spurts after this, and they are all focused on muscle and fat gain. This especially applies if your Labrador is a senior dog that has stopped eating. Unleash the real potential of your companion! We will email you daily with training tips, ideas and videos. This is an introductory course into our training philosophy. You will get customized video lessons based on your training goals — and you can implement them in just 5 minutes a day.

Umbilical cord training Throughout the rest of this guide I will be referring to each of these 4 methods and when you should or could be using them. Once used to using the paper or the pads, you slowly cut the area covered until they reliably use just a couple of sheets and never miss. You then slowly move the paper toward the outside where another set is placed and you begin to encourage your puppy to go outside only, before completely removing the papers inside. At this point they will have made the transition. A top tip when paper training is when you clean away soiled paper, you should hold one piece back and place it as a middle layer of the new papers. Puppy pads have a scent that attracts a puppy, paper does not. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 3. This is confusing and will make the learning process take longer. Best suited to: Either people who are going to have an indoor bathroom spot long-term, or people who will not use a crate for training yet cannot commit to constantly supervising their puppy when inside the home. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, definitely a 5. But it does result in more mistakes from your puppy until later in life. Equipment needed: Nothing but stacks of old newspapers! A very cost-effective method. Description: The method takes advantage of the fact dogs have a natural instinct not to soil the area where they eat and sleep. Key to this is making the crate just large enough to stand in, turn around easily and lay down stretched out but no bigger. The rest of the time you watch them and regularly take them outside to potty to teach them good habits. Best suited to: Everybody! This is because you will have to crate train your puppy before you can use a crate for house training which does take time and effort. Click here for my free and detailed guide to crate training your puppy. Equipment needed: A suitable crate. I have a guide to help you select the right size and type that you can read by clicking here. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I tentatively give it a 3. It could actually score higher or lower depending on how committed you are and how successful at supervising your puppy you are. Best suited to: People who are against any kind of confinement and can stay at home to watch their puppy all day every day. Mostly people who work from home and the retired. But this method also forms a part of every house training plan, whether you use other methods alongside or not. This is because when a puppy is free inside a home, they MUST be closely supervised to prevent any mistakes. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 2. It scores low as it requires a lot of input from you as the owner. It is quite draining never being able to take your eye of your puppy. Equipment needed: None. Not a crate, newspapers, puppy pads or anything. The cheapest of all the methods…unless you put a price on your time. But it is highly effective. Description: This technique calls for you to tether your puppy to you by leash and have them follow you wherever you go when inside your home. You will notice and be able to intervene and correct every possible mistake, taking them outside every time they need to relieve themselves. Used correctly, the opportunity for your puppy to make mistakes is completely removed so every single time they need to visit their bathroom spot is a training opportunity you will take advantage of and no mistake goes uncorrected. Best suited to: People who spend all their time at home with their puppy and would also enjoy literally being tied to their pup all day. Further Info: for a detailed discussion of this technique, the benefits, downside, and many more tips, please see my article: Umbilical Cord House Training: What is It? How Does It Work? A Mix Of 3 Methods I use and recommend a mixture of crate training, constant supervision and paper training. I use constant supervision extensively because when a puppy is outside of the crate you have to watch them diligently to avoid puppy mistakes. Admittedly this is somewhat going against my advice because I always recommend to avoid paper training if possible. It encourages or allows your puppy to toilet inside the home, before then training them not to do so. This is confusing to your puppy and harmful to our house training efforts. But even though I recommend against it, using paper training ever so occasionally as a fall back plan works well for me. Most dogs love being outside and will use any excuse to get out there and stay there. You do this by using a cue word and walking them on leash to their potty spot, not allowing them to do anything else and if they do not potty, taking them back inside and trying again in a few minutes. Because a full bladder or bowel is uncomfortable, dogs are happy to relieve themselves, but some may try to hold it if they think they can get to stay outside and sniff around a while. If people use different words, your dog will get confused. This will slowly teach them the command. And this is fine for the first couple of weeks while they have no bladder control and will perform their business very quickly. And some dogs even learn to actively hold their bladder just so they can stay outside to explore for longer. Before you can do this you need to first get your puppy used to wearing a collar and leash. Have You Got Everything Prepared? A Check-list Before You Start Like everything in life, house training runs smoother if you have everything ready before you start, hopefully before you even bring your puppy home. Have you: Decided on and marked out a suitable bathroom spot? Chosen and purchased a suitable high-quality nutritious food? Figured out the times of day you will feed your puppy? Got a collar and leash? Put in place a leash training plan? Bought a suitable crate and set it up in a suitable place? Bought bedding for the crate? Bought chew toys to occupy your puppy in the crate? Decided on the commands you will use if any? Purchased either baby gates, a pet barrier or an exercise pen for longer term confinement? Sourced stacks of newspapers or puppy pads to use in the long-term confinement area? Bought some small but highly tasty training treats to use as a reward? Bought specialized pet stain removing and odor neutralizing cleaning products? Bought a UV light to find hidden spots of urine that must be removed to prevent repeat accidents? Sat and discussed with every member of your household your finalized plans so everybody has the same info? Successful House Training Is All About Schedules And Routine Dogs thrive when living to schedules and routine, doing best when they have set times for eating, going to toilet, exercise, training and play. But because the passage of food through their digestive system stays roughly the same, if you feed your puppy at the same times every day they will need to defecate at roughly the same times every day. This results in fewer mistakes, more opportunities to praise your puppy for going in the right place and so speeds up their learning. Depending on their age a puppy will need to poop 3 to 6 times a day, and wee many more times than that. Can these times be predicted? Mostly they can. When a puppy needs to potty depends on when they last ate, drank and their recent activities. Mostly they need to go: First thing in the morning The instant they wake up from a nap at any time of the day Just before going to bed Within a few minutes of eating or drinking Immediately after a play session Immediately after any excitement But a puppy also needs to go many times per day regardless of recent activities, so you should also take your puppy to their bathroom spot on a consistent schedule such as the following: At 8 weeks old — every 30 mins. At 10 weeks old — every 45 mins. At 12 weeks old — every 1 to 1. At 16 weeks old — every 2 hours. At 20 weeks old — every 3 hours. Some will need to wee within 2 minutes of drinking, others after 20 minutes. Some will need a bathroom break within 2 minutes of waking, others 15 minutes later. You have to determine your puppies own natural tendencies and create a schedule to suit. To achieve this, you need to follow this 5 step process: Feed them to a strict schedule. Decide on exercise, play and training times. Develop a schedule including feeding, exercise, play, training and all scheduled potty times. Use the information gathered in your diary to learn from any mistakes and adjust your schedule for the following week. The more you can stick to schedules and routines, the smoother and faster the process will be. But you can stray from the path when necessary and still find success, it will just take a little longer. You should feed your puppy 3 times a day when 12 to 26 weeks old. From 26 weeks old and onwards, feed your puppy just two times a day For 2 meals a day you need to space them out 8 to 12 hours apart. What works for me is shortly after I get up at and when we have our evening meal between PM and PM. Availability Of Water: You should make sure fresh water is always available but because drinking too much or too little can be a sign of health problems, you do need to monitor their water intake. Physical activity often leads to a puppy needing to potty very soon after. So to encourage predictable potty times for your puppy, you want to schedule their exercise and play. Deciding when to exercise, train and play with your puppy is entirely up to you. You should fit it around your lifestyle and commitments, but try to make it the same times each day if you can. Enter all the following details into a single column in an excel spreadsheet, or write them down as a day schedule with a pen and paper: When you wake and add an instant bathroom break before you do ANYTHING for yourself! Enter the times you will play with, train and exercise your puppy. Enter a scheduled visit to the bathroom spot after each of the activities listed in points 1 to 3. Add scheduled bathroom visits after any length of time longer than your puppy should be expected to hold it according to their age. Write in scheduled sleeps for your puppy, place them in the crate or confinement area. After writing down this schedule, tick off each task as you go through the day with your puppy. This way you will always know what needs to be done and when, and there will be no confusion about whether someone else in the house fed, exercised or took the puppy to the loo. I discuss this further in step 5 below. You should be able to pick up on any patterns and adjust your own behavior to avoid mistakes in future. Was puppy left alone and peed in the living room while you made breakfast? Puppy should never be left alone unsupervised, learn from this mistake. Or maybe puppy peed in the crate after an hour? Learn from this mistake. Well done for watching them closely enough. So increase the frequency. Therefore you should stretch out the time between visits by 10 to 15 minutes for the following day. This is how you find out. And Now House Training is So Much Easier By writing out the schedule as in step 3, you should never forget to feed, train or take your puppy to potty. And by using the schedule as a diary as in step 5, you get feedback on how you and your puppy are performing, and are armed with the necessary info to make changes to your schedule over time. You, your puppy and their needs all stay in sync and house training becomes that much easier. Just make a spreadsheet in excel and print it out, or simply buy some lined paper. Keep it somewhere you can always see and know where it is, alongside a pen or pencil and write entries in it as you watch your puppy throughout the day. After this, continuing with a diary every day is the best advice, although keeping one for 3 consecutive days each week will be sufficient for you to pick up on any changes as they mature. Once your puppy is 5 to 6 months old, they will have sufficient bladder control and experience to make a schedule and diary unnecessary. Just make sure they get access to the outside at least once every 3 hours and all will be fine. Extending The Time Between Toilet Breaks I discussed earlier how a puppy will need regular visits to their bathroom spot, something like every 30 minutes at 8 weeks old, every 45 minutes at 10 weeks old and so on. But every puppy is different and their progress in having longer time between needed toilet breaks will vary too. You do this because as a puppy grows, the size of their bowel and bladder increases, so they will be able to hold more for longer and you want to take advantage of this. This is also teaching them necessary bladder and bowel control. Use your cue word before you take them: By using your chosen cue word every time before you take them to potty, your puppy will learn what the trip is about and what they must do. This eventually leads to faster results as they know what is expected of them. Lead your puppy to the bathroom spot on leash: This gives you the ability to keep your puppy at the bathroom spot and prevent them wandering off, getting distracted and forgetting what they are there for. Make sure you stay with them at their bathroom spot: If you have them on leash, then of course you will be. When they start to go, say your chosen cue word in a soft warm voice. Mix up the reward between play, time off leash and a food reward to keep them guessing, but keep the food rewards to a minimum as what goes in must come out and random feeding promotes random elimination times! Many people pop out, stand for 1 minute and then come back in. Some people recommend to stay out there for 10, 15, 20 minutes, whatever it takes until they go, then praise profusely when they do. I recommend you give them 3 to 5 minutes, saying your cue word every 30 seconds or so but otherwise standing silently still just holding their leash so they cannot wander off. Take them back to their bathroom spot in 10 minutes or so. If using a crate for house training: Pop them back in the crate and leave them for 10 minutes. Then take them back to their bathroom spot. Take them to their bathroom spot after 10 minutes. If not, take them away from their bathroom spot and watch them for 10 minutes before returning them to their bathroom spot. And if crate training, do not leave them in the crate too long else they may be forced to soil in there. Prevent this at all costs. Rinse and repeat the visits to and fro like this until they do potty, then follow the next sections advice. What You Should Do Between Scheduled Bathroom Breaks Between scheduled bathroom visits you should do two things: Allow some supervised free time in your home, and use your chosen house training method. By free time I mean time outside of their crate, or off leash, or out of their confinement area. Time free to roam, explore and live life. When 10 weeks old they may need to toilet every 30 minutes, so they only get 5 to 10 minutes free time. When 12 weeks old, they may need to toilet every hour so they can get 35 to 40 minutes free time. You allow this free time because you are of course working toward a time when they will always be free and trusted unsupervised. To get there they need the experience, to get used to being free in your home and begin seeing it as a place they need to keep clean. They also need social interaction and life experiences. But what are the signs a puppy is about to potty? Heading toward, barking at or scratching the door to the outside. The minute you see any of these signs you should take your puppy to their bathroom spot immediately. There may well be some false alarms, but better safe than sorry. Carefully watch them and you should soon notice what body language means a wee or a poop is imminent. There will be recognizable signs. We do this because the time is fast approaching when mistakes are most likely to be made. If using constant supervision: Carry on as you are. Then at their scheduled potty time, attach a leash and lead them to their bathroom spot. If using a crate for house training: Encourage your puppy into their crate and close the door, leaving them there until their scheduled potty time and then release them, instantly attaching a leash and leading them to their bathroom spot. If using umbilical cord training: Attach a leash and tether your puppy to you, ready to react if they make moves to eliminate. Take them to their bathroom spot at the scheduled time. If paper training: Take your puppy to their confinement area where their papered bathroom spot is and supervise them, ready to intervene if they make moves to potty away from the paper. Not good when you need to be there to encourage them for doing it in the right place. If they do, you can pick them up and carry them, or take them by the collar and gently lead them to their bathroom spot, then encourage them to finish where they should. But to me this seems foolish. Instead of a little pile or puddle, you then have a long line of wee or poop from where you caught them all the way to the bathroom spot that you then have to deep clean instead. Then think how they were able to make such a mistake and tweak your plans so it cannot happen again. But any corrections or punishment now will be futile. House Training For Full Time Workers This advice applies not just to full-time workers , but also if you must occasionally leave your puppy home alone for a few hours. Most importantly, follow all the advice in this guide so far for the times that you are home. Supervise them, correct any mistakes, set feeding and elimination schedules and everything else I have advised. First of all, if like me you use a crate, you simply cannot leave your puppy in the crate for many hours. This is very unfair on your puppy and it will destroy the crates power as a house training tool if they lose the instinct to keep it clean. Secondly, please do your best to enlist the help of a family member, friend, neighbor or hire a dog walker to periodically pop in to visit your puppy, take them to their bathroom spot, give them some social interaction and so on. But I also freely admit to using paper training myself occasionally, for the unavoidable times I have to leave my puppy home alone for a few hours. If you have to leave your puppy home alone for any reason, usually because you work, then paper training in your absence is the only thing you can do. You then have two options available to you: Buy and use an exercise pen, or confine your puppy to a single, puppy-proofed room. As they get used to pottying on paper, reduce the area covered one sheet at a time until just a small area remains covered. Once you know your puppy can hold their bladder for longer than they have to be left alone, remove the paper altogether. By 16 to 20 weeks, they should be able to last the 3 or 4 hours max they will be left alone and somebody comes to exercise them and allow a bathroom break. Between 8 and 12 weeks when weeing seems spontaneous , my puppy spends a fair bit of time in there and I paper train them to use puppy pads. Our kitchen and dining room was separated by an arch where a door used to be, with tiled flooring, making it ideal. I used a baby gate across the arch between the kitchen and dining room, and initially covered the dining area with paper, over time reducing it to just two sheets with the puppy pad holder on top. The dining area is completely empty, with no furniture, nothing in there. Skirting boards, the corners of furniture items, anything within reach is a potential target for teeth and claws. My girlfriend works from home, we crate trained and we had no problem finding house sitters in an evening if we needed one, so we all but had things covered. But this is something you need to be mindful of. Whatever the reason, there just WILL be times you cannot supervise your puppy. The essence of house training is to prevent mistakes and praise your puppy heavily when they potty in the right place. If you cannot watch your puppy, the chances of them making a mistake go through the roof. So even if you choose to use a constant supervision method exclusively, you will still need to confine your puppy sometimes to a paper covered area just in case. I mean literally none at all. One minute they are trotting along, the next they are leaking. No warning signs for you, not even any warning signs for them. I recommend setting up an exercise pen with the entire area papered, or do as I do and confine them to a room with the entire area papered. Use this time to paper train them, to get them used to weeing on paper and gradually reduce the area because you will use this method if you ever have to leave them home alone during the next 4 or 5 months. They will sniff, circle and so on as I mentioned before. At this point you can now move on to using your chosen house training method. Start encouraging them to potty in the right place from the minute you get them home. So the good news is, even at 8 weeks they will be able to last 4 or so hours and you will only need to wake once during the night. Also, make sure to take them to their bathroom spot right before you go to bed so they can empty themselves. Then set an alarm for 4 hours after their bed time when you must get up and take them to their bathroom spot. No excuses, you simply must do this. If you find your puppy has soiled in this time, you should set the alarm for half an hour earlier the next night 3. After a few days of not having a night-time accident, set your alarm for 15 minutes later and increase the time by 15 minutes for each successful night they do not have an accident. If you find they make a mistake one night before you wake, set the alarm back half an hour, make sure they stay dry a few days and then increase 15 minutes nightly again. And by using this schedule, you strike a good balance between a couple of inevitable accidents while stretching out the time at a good pace to lasting a full night. If they soil their crate more than once in any given week, you may have to progress slower add 15 minutes every 2 or 3 days , or perhaps sleep them in a papered exercise pen or their confinement room. Maintaining their instinct to keep the crate clean is of utmost importance. What To Do At The Bathroom Spot At Night When you take them out at night, say your chosen cue word, take them straight to their bathroom spot, praise them gently when they finish their business but do not reward them with anything else. The last thing you want is to teach your puppy that during the night is a time for play or food treats! This will come back to haunt you in a big way and result in noisy sleepless nights. You want your puppy to learn that night-time is for sleeping and for nothing else. Do nothing else. Some will be able to last the whole night without a potty break at 10 weeks rarely , and some may not be able to at 15 weeks also rarely. But certainly by 16 weeks old your puppy will be able to last a 7 hour night without needing to potty if you do not feed them for 3 hours or provide water for 2 hours before bed time and allow them to empty themselves right before you lay down for the night. No Progress? If you are feeding, exercising, training and playing with your puppy to a schedule, and when you look at your diary there seems to be no pattern to the times they need to potty, you should seek the advice of your vet. Common ailments such as gastroenteritis, urinary tract infection and health issues affecting internal organs and the genitalia can lead to a dog needing to potty much more frequently, often leading to eliminating in the house. Again, seek the advice of your family vet. You cannot successfully house train a puppy who is ill because their bodily functions will be too unpredictable. But 6 to 7 months is the ball park figure to aim for. A single mistake in the home can cause a major setback. A puppy may not make a mistake for 2 weeks, then you give them too much freedom, they make a mistake and all of a sudden they are regularly trying to potty in the home again. Also, some puppies just seem to forget everything for a few days now and then while growing up, even after being perfect for a couple of weeks. Just stick to your plan and they WILL eventually get it. Conclusion With house training, the fewer mistakes you allow your puppy to make and the more they are rewarded for doing the right thing, the quicker they will learn and the faster you will find success. Because of this, the more effort you put in and the more time you spend with your puppy at the beginning — supervising to correct mistakes and taking them to their bathroom spot many times each day — the better. But there are many other things you can do to help yourself and your puppy to find success. This guide has provided you with all the theory, strategies, tips and tricks you will ever need to successfully house train your puppy as quickly and efficiently as possible, with the fewest mistakes along the way. Please see the entire series linked to below:. Print Potty train your puppy quickly Housebreaking is one of the least desirable tasks when adding a new puppy to your family. It is never fun but consider it a necessary task. You will never regret having a dog that knows your home is not a bathroom. When to start housebreaking Housebreaking should begin the day you bring your puppy home from the breeder. It is important to establish quickly that there is a right and wrong place for your puppy to go potty. How long does it take to house train a lab puppy? I wish I could give a definitive answer for this, but the truth is that every puppy is different. Most puppies can be completely house broke by the time they are months. But assume there will be a lot of ups and downs through the process. Some puppies learn very quickly and rarely have an accident. Others take more time to make the connection. Here are some things you can do to help the process go smoothly. Have the right attitude! Keep your attitude in check to help this process go quickly and smoothly. Have patience! As already stated, potty training can take some time. It may happen, but it is unlikely. Instead, plan for a long haul and then you will be more patient and understanding when mishaps happen. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Step 1: Establish a place for your puppy to go potty To get started housebreaking your puppy, you must first establish a place where it is okay for your puppy to do his business. Find a place outside that is not too far from your home, but an area where you are not worried about killing the grass or trampling plants that are important to you. Consider this carefully, because once your puppy starts going potty in this area it will be exceedingly difficult to move or change the area. Once the scent is there, it is natural for dogs to continue going potty in the same area over and over. Do I have to potty train outside? In some areas of the country, winters can be very cold. Some new puppy owners wonder if it is too cold for their Labrador puppy to go outside to potty train during these times. The answer is no. Most Labs can easily be outside for a few minutes even during the coldest nights to go potty. A pee pad is a disposable, leak proof pad that is scented to attract your dog and encourage going potty on them. We highly discourage using pee pads because in the long run it is confusing to your dog. If you spend time teaching your puppy to NOT go potty inside your home and then flip-flop and begin letting them go inside your home on a pee pad, your dog will be confused. Besides, eventually you must retrain them to going outside, so the best policy is to never start letting inside be an option. Step 2: Establish a routine and schedule for your puppy Establishing a routine is the single most important step for housebreaking. The more consistent you are, the faster your puppy will learn to go outside for potty. This time will increase rapidly over the next few weeks, but that first week is going to take a lot of time and energy on your part to consistently let your puppy out on a schedule. To make being consistent easier, consider this: Set a timer When housebreaking puppies, we find that setting a timer is helpful. An hour flies by and you hardly realize it. For the first few days at least, set a timer and let your puppy out hourly, especially if your puppy is not in a crate. We will discuss that more in a bit. Timing is everything There are other times when you need to let your puppy outside. Immediately after eating or drinking your puppy should go outside. Eating and drinking will trigger a need to go potty, so to avoid accidents, take your puppy out every time they eat or drink. And if they drink a lot of water, you may have to take them out several times before they are back on schedule. Anything you can do to make going potty a routine will help your dog learn and associate that going outside is where I need to go to go potty. Use a command I know this sounds crazy but using a command can help your dog form an association between the command and going potty. At first this is meaningless to the puppy. And you cannot discipline your puppy for a potty accident in the house that you never saw happen. The solution for this is never let your puppy go unsupervised. This can be exhausting, that is why we suggest using a crate to help. The stern words must be said during the accident or immediately after to have any effect. Using a crate to house train your puppy First, while your puppy may not love his crate right away, if properly introduced and used consistently, Labs usually come to love their crates. As den animals, dogs will view their crate as a den where they can go to sleep or get away from the business of the home. Learn more about crate training your Labrador puppy here. When using a crate to housetrain your puppy, you first want to make sure that you have a very small crate. One that is just a little bigger than your puppy. This is particularly important because you do not want your puppy to be able to move around much in the crate. If they can move around, they can and often will go potty in the crate. So, start with a very small crate and get bigger crates as the puppy grows. Whatever you choose to use to block off the larger area, make sure that it is not something your puppy can chew on or ingest. You will still need to find a way to gradually increase the area that the puppy has access to, so I just find the multiple crate solution easier. You should still set a timer and take your puppy out on a regular basis, and you will want to schedule some time each day for the puppy to run around the house and play while supervised. Step 4: Using praise to speed the house breaking process You can help your puppy more quickly understand that going potty outside is the right thing to do by giving your puppy well-timed praise. But the praise must be well-timed. You should give the praise while your puppy is going potty outside or immediately after. Timing is very important! Lots of people get upset when the dog goes inside but fail to praise when the dog does the right thing. Not all dogs are the same. Some puppies will whine just before they go potty in the house, or whine at the door when they need to go. Some will hide somewhere you cannot see them and do their business there. Still others may scratch at the door. How long can a puppy hold it overnight? With young puppies, weeks old, you will need to get up several times a night to let them out. It can be helpful to limit the amount of water your puppy has access to close to bedtime. We usually aim for every 3 hours and then steadily increase the time as they get older. But each puppy is different. Final thoughts on how to house train your Labrador puppy Remember that housebreaking is a process. It rarely follows a straight line and more often there will periods of success and occasional mishaps. Stick with it and before long your puppy will understand that going potty in the house is not okay. Until next time, happy retrieving. How to housebreak your Labrador puppy. Time to start potty training your Labrador Puppy Potty training or house training is one of the first things that you will have to focus on after bringing home a Labrador Puppy. However, you must know what to expect when toilet training a Lab puppy, you must be prepared with patience and dedication since house training can be difficult in the beginning. Here are the house-training basics that you will need to follow to train your puppy. House training is done over time, and here is how. You can also take your puppy into your yard if you have one. Teaching your lab puppy go potty in the yard is the best idea since Labradors produce a lot of waste when they are grown. If you live in an apartment you have no other option but to take your Lab outside to evacuate. Lab puppies love to go outside and explore new territories. So for apartment dwellers, the first months of potty training will happen indoors. Puppies can refuse to go potty on surfaces that they are not used to. For example, if your puppy gets used to evacuating on hard floors, going potty in the grass will feel awkward to your puppy, and will prefer to do it on the sidewalk. So, using an artificial grass puppy pad while you potty train your Lab indoors can help to transition to real grass when your puppy is ready to explore the outside world. How to toilet train a Labrador Retriever Puppy Keep an eye on your puppy for signs like circling, sniffing, and scratching the floor. This means that your puppy needs to potty. Take your puppy outside or to the designated potty place in your house or apartment. This will help your dog know that is the place to go do the thing. If the activity is successful praise your puppy for doing a good job. You can also give your Lab puppy a treat for doing a good job, Labs are a food-motivated breed, so yummy treats help a lot with training. Positive reinforcement will help your Labrador to go potty in the right place. Limiting the movement of your puppy will make it easier to keep an eye on during this process. Consider using baby gates to close an area of your house. The area must be big enough so that your puppy can move and play inside. It should be close to your yard or the area of your house where you want your Lab to go potty. Also, this area must be easy to clean, you can expect accidents in this part of the potty training. Then take the puppy to the potty place and let it finish there. Do not scare the puppy if you catch it in the act, the goal is to get its attention and let it know that it is not doing the right thing. This is something you must teach your dog. Do it patiently and be consistent with the training and eventually, you will get your Labrador fully house-trained. Use some white vinegar diluted in water or an enzymatic odor remover to thoroughly clean the area. For this period, you might need the following items to begin potty training your Labrador puppy. Make sure they are all pet-friendly and of a reputable brand name. Absorbent pee pad : Dog training pads mostly come in handy in the first stages of house training, before your puppy can go potty outside. The benefit of a pad is that the mess your puppy makes will be confined to just one place and it will be easier for you to clean up. Stain Remover : As a routine, accidents are bound to happen. And this is why having a good cleaner is extremely important. Along with a pet, cleaner make sure you also have ample small towels on hand. Dog poop bag and Pooper scooper : Having these is also very important. They will come in handy when you have to pick up and discard the mess your little friend makes. You can carry these in your bag or even in your pocket when you go out on a walk with your dog. Treats: Many dogs are motivated by food, and this is why you will need food treats that your Labrador puppy enjoys. After your dog listens to your commands and goes to the right place, give him a treat, so he understands that food comes after he goes to the right place. A leash and collar: This will allow you to show your dog where the right place is. Barrier gates : This is also an essential supply as it will confine your dog to a specific place. Barrier gates make it easier to keep your house floors clean. Pee finder : Finding and cleaning dried pee will help prevent future accidents. You might also want a car seat cover in case you have to travel somewhere with your little friend. An artificial grass pad to train your puppy for the outside. When to start house training your Labrador puppy: On a general note, younger Labrador puppies have very short attention spans. At what age should a lab puppy be potty trained? House training should begin as soon as your Lab puppy arrives at your home. Which is normally at 7 to 9 weeks of age. So, if your little Labrador puppy is a few weeks old, you might begin with basic command words to get familiar with the house routine and also your voice. You can use this time to show your new Lab puppy the areas of your house it is allowed to be in, and close off any part of your house that is off-limits to your dog. The best moments to train your Lab puppy are: After a nap. Learn to spot the signs Never punish your Lab after an accident Use potty pads as a temporary indoor alternative Recognize excitement urination Be aware of submissive urination Allow more freedom as your puppy improves The ultimate aim of housebreaking your puppy is to prevent accidents. Control His Environment When potty training your puppy, the first thing to do is to control his environment. Use a long leash and attach your pup to your waist, even when inside the house. This allows you to look out for warning signs. Your pup will sleep in the crate, whereas the playpen provides extra space. Make sure to choose a pen with a door so that you can attach it to the crate, such as the Midwest Homes for Pets Folding Exercise Pen from Amazon. I also recommend the Midwest Homes for Pets icrate. Introduce the Crate Slowly introduce the crate when crate training your Lab over the first few days. When you let your pup out of his crate, immediately take him outside. When he is away from his own room, make sure you closely supervise him by keeping him attached to you on a long leash. Allow Frequent Potty Breaks Give your dog lots of opportunities to go outside. Create a Puppy Potty Schedule Dogs thrive off routines, including mealtimes, exercise, and potty training! You can set an alarm on your watch or phone to remind you to take your dog outside to his toilet area. Your pup will need to go first thing in the morning, after a meal or drinking, when he wakes from a nap, after playtimes, and before bedtime. Look for clues such as sniffing the floor or carpet, circling, restlessness, becoming overexcited, whining, or making towards the door. This includes whether you catch him in the act or if it happened a while ago. Moreso, the latter, as your dog will have no idea what he is being punished for! This is because dogs have a terrible short-term memory and will forget an event in two minutes. Instead, take him straight outside and reward him with a treat and lots of praise if he finishes off his business. Use Potty Pads as a Temporary Indoor Alternative Potty pads can be handy in extended periods of bad weather or if you live in a high-rise apartment and it takes longer to get outside. They can also be useful when traveling. This is when your Labrador gets so excited he will pee a small amount. It may happen when a family member or friend visits. To prevent this, allow your dog to eliminate before a visitor arrives and ensure visitors make their entrance low-key with no fuss, even ignoring the pup for a few minutes. Dogs will usually grow out of excitement pee by 18 months of age. Be Aware of Submissive Urination This is also common, but your puppy will outgrow it. It occurs when your Labrador wants to show submissive status to a person or another animal. He may squat and urinate during specific situations. To prevent it, avoid yelling and physical punishment, appear less intimidating when approaching, kneel down, and stroke under his chin instead of the top of his head. At first, keep his sleeping area small and then gradually increase the size slowly and methodically. Remove the divider in the crate or make the playpen area larger if you arent using a crate. You can use a crate to your advantage as it helps your pup develop quicker bowel and bladder control. To potty train a Lab puppy with a crate, use the crate as a tool. When the door is closed, your Lab will let you know he needs to eliminate by whining or scratching. He will learn self-control quicker. Crates are great when you cannot fully supervise your puppy and are an ideal way to control his environment. However, you still need to keep a close eye on him and spot the signs when he needs to go. Make it smaller using a divider. He will be less likely to eliminate in a smaller sleeping area. Check out my recommendations for the Best Dog Crates for Labradors and Playpens , including soft crates, travel crates, and furniture styles. Just be aware that it will probably take a little longer. Use dog gates to section off an area of the house. When away from his confinement, tether your pup to you with a long leash and establish a strict potty break schedule. If you choose dog gates, there are many styles you can choose to match your decor and configure how you like. This area should contain training pads or newspapers. Potty Training Puppies Between Months Old Most puppies are around eight weeks old when they leave their mother and littermates, but occasionally your pup may be a little older when you first bring him home. You may wonder how to potty train an older puppy and whether you should do anything different. Generally speaking, you should follow the same principles as training an 8-week-old Lab. However, a more mature puppy should be able to grasp housebreaking quicker. Labrador house training routines. We want them to learn to wait until they are outdoors before emptying their bladder or bowels. It is about maturity too. We need to understand that tiny puppies have immature bodies and are not physically capable of waiting very long. On your side There are two factors on your side in the potty training process. When it comes to bladder control, fortunately your puppy improves with every day that passes, so this factor does not work against you forever. The same applies to the fact that the puppy has been removed from his nest, he will soon learn to accept his new nest. The principles of puppy potty training The puppy is learning the principle of extending the nest area, which he keeps clean instinctively, to include your entire home. Punishment is counter-productive in this process as it teaches the puppy to avoid emptying himself in your presence. Rewards are helpful, but given the right routine, a puppy will naturally learn to be clean without them. The secret to successful house training lies in selecting targets that the puppy can achieve. If your puppy sometimes needs to wee every 15 minutes whilst he is awake and active, you will have to take him outside every 15 minutes. Restricted access Start small applies here too. Allow your puppy access only to a small part of your home. Increase the area he has access to, only when he is capable of keeping the current area clean. Just because he can. And because the sensation of a filling bladder is a new one. Your job is to teach him to wait a little longer. You do this by confining him for a short time, every time his bladder fills. You can confine him in his nest within a crate , or in your arms. He will be reluctant to wee in either location. If he wets himself, you have waited too long! It takes two You need to go outside with your puppy, and stay out there with him, each time he needs to wee. A tiny puppy is unlikely to empty himself on his own. This especially applies in cold or wet weather. Routines Matter When House Training a Labrador Retriever Based around these practical requirements you can create your own house training routine. For a puppy that needs to wee every half an hour, it will go something like this Take puppy outside to the toilet area and wait with him until he empties himself Bring him indoors and allow him free access to your kitchen for fifteen to twenty minutes Crate or cuddle the puppy until it is thirty minute since his last wee Take the puppy back out to the toilet area If at any time the puppy does not empty himself then confine him for another ten minutes and try again. As soon as he is regularly not needing to wee after thirty minutes you can extend the duration of free access to your kitchen. Provided you stick to these principles and strategies, the house training process, though quite intense for a short while, will pass smoothly. Supervise Your Puppy Your second job is to supervise or contain your puppy when his bladder is filling up. You can do this by crating him for a few minutes, or by cuddling him in your arms. I recommend the cuddle option for the first few days, that way you can introduce the crate gradually once he has settled into his new home. Either spend your first day together in the yard getting a feel for how frequently they pee. As you can see, there is some guesswork involved in house training a puppy, but not too much. The secrets of successful outdoor toilet trips Not wanting to pee outside is a common toilet training puppy problem and one we look at in more detail in this article. Keeping your puppy company is the key. You need to go outside with your puppy and wait there with him until he has done a wee. This may take longer than you would like, and you probably have better things to do than stand in your yard while your puppy chases butterflies or plays with your shoe laces. But stay outside you must, until he has done that wee. Coming Indoors Early If you must come indoors before your puppy has relieved himself, you need to supervise him very closely. Hold him in your arms — or put him in a small crate for a few minutes — before going back out to try again. It is a new puppy problem, and it will pass. And if you teach your puppy to pee on command, it will pass even quicker! Rewarding success If you put plenty of effort in, and take your puppy out a great deal in those first few days, he will quickly learn that the place you have allocated to him for potty purposes is the place to pee. You can praise him and give him a little treat for doing so. Have your treat on hand keep them next to your poop bags so you remember to grab both on the way out , and deliver it right after your puppy has completed their business. Rewarding his successes and ignoring his accidents is the quickest way of successfully communicating what you want, and quickly potty training your puppy. Stage 2 — Learning self control During stage 2 your puppy begins to develop some self control. This means he can wait a few minutes before emptying himself when his bladder starts to feel full. Keep an eye on your puppy for the tell tale signs that he needs to use the toilet: whimpering, whining or barking sniffing about, especially sniffing in circles! Using Your Crate If your puppy is now used to his crate, you can start using it stretch out the gaps between toilet trips. Accidents during stage 2 At some point during stage 2, many puppies will be able to last an hour or so between wees. This is when puppy parents often relax their vigilance, and their puppies start having accidents in the house again. Simply go back to shorter gaps between trips to the yard for a few days. Then start to space out those trips again, but more gradually this time. Stage 3 — Extending the clean zone This is where all your hard work starts to really pay off. Once your puppy is confidently and consistently toileting outdoors, and you can further stretch out the gaps between toilet breaks, and start to introduce your puppy to the rest of your home. Take it slowly, and if accidents occur, to go back to shorter gaps between trips outdoors for a few days. Bear in mind that your puppy may be used to peeing in the yard and not in the kitchen by now, but they might not automatically understand which rule applies to the lounge. Method 2: How to potty train a puppy indoors This section has a lot in common with how to potty train a puppy when you work. So follow method 2 if you need to know how to potty train a puppy in an apartment as well. And that means using pads. How to potty train a puppy on pads The simplest way to do this is to restrict the puppy to a smallish room with washable floors. Cover the floor with puppy pads to begin with, with their bed in one corner. How do you train a puppy to pee on a pad? With this arrangement in place, as long as your puppy leaves his bed to pee which his mom will have encouraged him to do , he will pee onto the pads. So over the next few days, reduce the area of the floor that is covered with puppy pads by half. You should find he begins to make an effort to pee and poop on the part of the floor that is covered — but it needs to be a sizeable part to get this good habit established. How to potty train a puppy fast using pads — reducing the toilet area By the end of the first week, you can begin to reduce the part of the floor that is covered with puppy pads right down to a small area, preferably near the back door. It is usually best to do this when you have some time booked off work — or during a long weekend when the weather is fine. But if you choose to crate train your puppy LINK alongside potty training him, the crate can be a useful aid for potty training too. Once your puppy thinks of the crate as their bed, they will be reluctant to soil in it. You Still Need To Watch Your Puppy Always watch puppies closely in their crate during potty training, and whisk them out to the right spot at the first sign they might need to relieve themselves. You can find out a lot more about crate training and the role it plays in rapid house training on this page. As well opportunities to use the toilet, Labrador puppies need company and socialisation while they are small. So, if you are going to go back to work you need to arrange someone to look after him, or to come in at intervals throughout the day to play with him and take him out. Here are some articles which will be of interest if you are thinking of getting a puppy and work full time:.

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