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Country Life June 21, This picture could only be improved if the puppies were using their paws to cover ears, eyes and mouth respectively.But, well, you can't have everything. Credit: Alamy If you're after a labrador — aka 'the world's favourite dog' — you'll need to take some expert advice. It is one of the most versatile breeds, capable of working in search and rescue, as a guide dog, in medical detection, as a sniffer or assistance dog and in the theatre of war. Labrador tips from the experts Go to a specialist breeder, so that you can see the different generations of a breeding line. Make temperament, not sex, your overriding factor when choosing. As soon as your puppy wakes up, take it outside. When introducing the labrador to a lead, walk it with an older dog. A yellow Labrador puppy. Possible labrador problems to look out for Canine hip dysplasia is a genetic disease, causing the abnormal development of the hip socket, resulting in pain and lameness. Listen for a popping sound when the dog walks, and look for reluctance to use stairs, as well as sensitivity when you touch the hindquarters. Labradors can also be prone to retinal dysplasia, an inherited condition that affects labradors used for field work, and results in their developing blind spots. Generally, the dog can work around this by changing head position. Reputable breeders will be able to show certification that the dog has no eye conditions, which you should ask to see when buying a dog. Head and skull: Skull broad with defined stop; clean-cut without fleshy cheeks. Jaws of medium length, powerful not snippy. Nose wide, nostrils well developed. Eyes: Medium size, expressing intelligence; brown or hazel. Ears: Not large or heavy, hanging close to head and set rather far back. Mouth: Jaws and teeth strong with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite. Coat: Distinctive feature, short dense without wave or feathering, giving fairly hard feel to the touch; weather-resistant undercoat. No need to scroll down: we can confirm that the Golden Retriever is indeed on the list below. Credit: Alamy Which is the more popular spaniel, the springer or the cocker? Shooting Times's David Tomlinson weighs up the pros and Close up of dog. Credit: Getty Images With a silken coat, affectionate nature and boundless enthusiasm for life, the Cavalier King Charles spaniel lives up to its Credit: Getty As the dog world prepares for Crufts , we take a look at the breed of dog which has been A sprocker spaniel Picture: Alamy Whether you own labradors, springers, cockers or a mix of all three, debate over which gundog is best has raged Related. Selecting Your Labrador Retriever Puppy Selecting your puppy Try to restrain your emotions when you are selecting our pup. Remember that the breeder has been with the pup from day 1 to selection day at 5 weeks. At Pawlinglabs, we will ask you to forward a list of the characteristics that your are hoping for, prior to selection. When you come to select, we will ask you to observe the litter before entering and handling the pups. Labrador pups are very cute and cuddly, but when it comes time to select the right one for you there is plenty to consider. Carefully observe Labrador Retriever puppies before buying them, ensuring that the pup you select looks healthy and is to breed standard. There are some basic points to note about Labrador Retriever standards. The coat of a Labrador is their most distinctive feature. Labs have two coats, the water resistant undercoat which is unseen, and the top coat which is dense, straight and short. There is might be a slight wave in their coat, however the coat should feel rough to the touch. Labrador puppies come in three different coat colors: yellow light cream to red fox , chocolate liver and black. There must not be any other colours in the coat. Labs have a broad skull and a well defined stop. Their head is quite large but the features on the head, such as the ears, look proportioned. The ears of a Labrador should be set far back from the face. The inside skin of the ears should be a pale pink and soft without any scabs or discoloration. There shouldn't be any odour coming from them. The eyes of a Lab pup are round, either deep brown or hazel with black rims. The eyes should be friendly and express intelligence. The Labrador Retriever has a wide black and well developed nose with distinguished nostrils. The nose should be clean and without discharge. Be aware that a wet nose is not an indication that the Lab is healthy, nor does a dry nose indicate he is unwell. The teeth should be set square to the jaws with the top teeth slightly overlapping the bottom. Labrador puppies have fewer teeth than adults and they will lose their baby teeth as their adult teeth grow in. Labs have a well developed and strong chest. It has good depth and width. Their barreled ribs are well sprung and their back is level. Their loins are wide and strong. The skin of a Lab should be without scabs or bumps. It is normal for Labrador puppies to have extra skin at the back of their neck; this is how their mother picks them up. The skin color of a lab is usually pale pink but it can also be brown or even spotted. The tail of a Labrador is thick at the base and tapers towards the tip. The tail is a moderate length and has no feathering. It is as smooth like the rest of the coat with a rounded appearance. The tails is even with the back or slightly upwards. It should never be carried over the back or hang down. Labrador have long and sloping shoulders that connect to the strong front legs. The hind legs are developed well and have a turned stifle. Both the front and hind legs should be straight. The feet of Labrador pups are compact and perfectly round. Their toes are arched and pads well developed. Feet should be straight, not turned inwards or outwards. The gait of a Labrador should be carefree. Labs take long strides and walk straight. Observe your puppies as he walk. Make sure it is not favoring any leg or paw. This can be a sign of a current or future health issue. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. Do Labrador Dog Colors Matter? The three different shades of Labrador are often associated with different roles. The yellow Labrador has become associated with Seeing Eye dogs, the black Labrador with hunting and retrieving work and the chocolate Labrador with pet homes and the show ring. But of course these are just broad generalisations and in reality, Labradors of each color have embraced all the many roles at which these amazing dogs excel. Labrador Color Inheritance There are three main Labrador colors, and a huge variety of shades of color too. To find out much more about where these Labrador colors came from, and how they inherited their lovely coats, head over to our in-depth article on Labrador color inheritance. Yellow Labradors Yellow Labradors are well known for a variety of roles, but perhaps best of all for being Service Dogs. They are nice tempered, easy to train and full of love. Although popular for highly trained roles, and of course very photogenic and therefore frequently used on charities literature, the yellow Labrador can still make a magnificant pet and be popular in the show ring too. These dogs tend to come from working lines, and have a more orange hue to their coats. They are still classed however on Kennel Club documentation as yellow Labradors. Fawn Labradors In recent years some people have begun to refer to yellow Labradors as fawn Labradors. If your Lab pup color is slightly darker than the traditional yellow, but not as orange as a Fox Red Labrador, you might well refer to him as being a Fawn Labrador. However, this is not an official Labrador color, nor indeed is it really one which is referred to by Labrador breeders in the way that Fox Red now is. Black Labradors Black Labradors have long been favoured as gundogs, but also make wonderful pets, companions and agility dogs too. They are the most common color of Labrador, due to the way in which their genes are inherited. Chocolate Labradors Chocolate Labradors make great family pets, as well as playing a role in the Show Ring. In America, chocolate Labradors are quite firmly established in hunting lines. However, it is worth bearing in mind that in the UK, Chocolate Labradors have only recently been achieving awards in the field. Black and yellow Labradors still taking more prominence at least in Field Trial circuits. In our extensive article on Chocolate Labradors we will let you know all about the chocolate Labrador. Where he comes from, his pet suitability and much more. Silver Labradors Silver Labradors are a fairly new trend in Labrador breeding. This amazing color inspires a lot of comments from Labrador fans, both positive and negative. The color varation from chocolate is caused by a diluting gene, but how this got into the breed is the source of some controversy. In our extensive article on Silver Labradors we take a look at where they come from and how to buy a healthy silver Labrador Retriever puppy. Some people have a strong preference for a particular color, but others are quite happy with either. If you are not fussy about color, you will have more choice of Labrador breeders to put on your shortlist when setting about choosing the right dog. Although you might love one particular color to look at, do think carefully about your prorities when it comes to picking a puppy. Perhaps what really matters is your Labradors breeding: his parents temperaments, roles and health. Show vs Field Bred Labradors Whatever your preference, it is worth bearing in mind that Labradors have become divided into two quite distinct types, show, and field. Finding a suitable dog will probably depend more on choosing the right type, than on choosing the right color. With some you will have more choice in one type rather than the other. And with some types you will have more choice in one color than the others. To find out more about the differences between show and working bred Labradors, check out this article comparing the Bench and Field varieties of Labrador here. Rescue Labradors When picking your new Labrador, you might be looking for an adult rather than a puppy. Drakeshead Labs How your Lab behaves and what they look like will depend to some extent on their origins. What are the two types of Labrador Retrievers? The two different types of Labradors are American Labradors, also known as field bred or working Labradors, and the English Labradors, bred for showing. Why are there different types of Lab? Labrador Retrievers were developed as the breed we know today by a couple of English aristocrats in the s who were passionate about shooting gamebirds birds. His job was to fetch dead and wounded game back to his master. And deliver it to hand undamaged, so that it could become a valuable and sustaining source of food. This is still the role of many working Labradors today, but so popular have the breed become as companions, that far more of these lovely dogs now live out their lives as family pets Labradors become pets Labradors first became popular as pets around the time that the first dog shows were springing up and exhibiting dogs was becoming a fashionable hobby. Gradually the two lines of Labrador — those bred for a role as sporting dogs, and those bred for a role as show dogs — began to diverge As the years passed the working type Labrador and show type Labrador became more different from one another. And breeding between the two types became less common. Capable of winning in the show ring and in the field. But as Field Trial competitions became more demanding, field bred labs became more specialised, faster, and more focused. Some not all lost their classic Labrador looks. While show bred Labs became a little more exaggerated, chunkier, heavier, and shorter in the leg. These names have nothing to do with location and everything to do with role. And the same applies to the terms English and show or bench type Lab. Whichever country you happen to be in. There has always been some flexibility in the roles that these dogs play. Many Labs of either type are incredibly versatile. Many English Labs will do a passable job of fetching a bird for you. And many American Labs will do a good job of being the family pet. But there are differences that may affect your choice. American type Labrador The working strain Labrador is likely to be easier to train. It may be easier for example, for an inexperienced owner to get him walking nicely on a lead. The American Labrador has a quick mind as well as a quick body, and is often a very sensitive soul that lives to please. Extremes of sensitivity can occasionally lead to nervousness, but on the whole, temperament is sound throughout the breed. Outdoors in the open, American Labradors may have very strong hunting instincts and be more likely to pursue your local wildlife. This can be a problem for those living in rural areas or exercising their dogs in countryside populated with rabbits or squirrels! This is something to consider if you like to relax and chat with friends whilst out walking. English type Labrador English type Labs are often heavier than their field bred cousins, and shorter in the leg. They may also be less agile. As juveniles, some English Labs can be extremely playful and distractible which can be a challenge, especially if you exercise your dog in busy dog parks where they are mixing with a lot of other dogs. My working type Labrador Tess, was quite grown up and sensible by the time her first birthday came along. My part show dog Rachael is six and is still not quite grown up! One final thought, in the UK, show bred labs are perhaps more likely to be noisy or prone to whining than American Labs. I get asked this question quite a bit! Drakeshead is actually just a British Labrador Kennel name. The Drakeshead Kennel is a famous kennel in England that breeds and competes very successfully working type Labradors. They also export Labradors to other countries. If your Labrador is from the Drakeshead kennels, his pedigree will have the word Drakeshead as part of his registered pedigree Kennel Name. There are many other successful breeders of American or field type Labradors in the UK. And many well known breeders of field type Labs in the USA too. Which is type of Lab is best for me? And it depends a bit on what you expect from your dog, and on where you live. If you want to get active with your dog, and maybe get involved with some Labrador activities or sports, then a Labrador from working lines might suit you best. American type Labradors for activities and hunting Working bred labs respond best to lots of human contact and a more managed approach to exercise outdoors. American Labs also tend to be more focused on their handler and may be more responsive to training. This can be helpful if you want to get involved in a sport or activity that involves your dog. Dog agility is a popular sport that American type Labs can excel at, while English Labs may lack the agility to compete at a high level. If you want a pet that is also a hunting companion then an American type Lab is your best choice. And it may be easier to manage this show type Lab outdoors, due to his less intense hunting instincts. But perhaps the main reason people who are not looking for a hunting companion may choose an English Lab is because they love the way that they look. Types of Labrador Heads One of the most distinctive separate features of the two types of Labrador Retrievers is their heads. If you are hoping for a chunky dog with classic Labrador good looks and a distinctive thick otter tail, then you do stand more chance of getting the dog you want from English or show lines. Just remember English Labs tend to take longer to grow up, be more playful, and more interested in introducing themselves to every passing stranger. Beauty if of course in the eye of the beholder. And some of those at home with the working type Lab will find the head size and shorter legs of the English Lab unattractive. Both types of Labrador can make great family dogs though the English type may be a little less prone to be shy or anxious. Dual purpose Labs A few breeders in the UK are attempting to re-create the dual purpose Labradors of the last century. Good looking medium weight dogs of substance with nice thick tails. Dogs with solid broad heads, thick coats, a well focused attentive brain inside them, and some powerful hunting and retrieving instincts. I think this is great news for Labradors as many working bred labs have quite poor conformation. And some show Labs are too heavily built and lack some of the focus and great retrieving instincts of their working cousins. Mixing the two lines can however, produce variable results and is always a bit of a gamble. You could end up with a dog with poor conformation and poor hunting and retrieving instincts. Whichever type of Labrador you choose for a pet, make sure you choose your breeder wisely. Getting a healthy puppy that has had a healthy start in life is more important than any of the above considerations. And that happy, confident Labrador temperament we expect from these beautiful dogs should be your number one priority. Different types of Labrador Here are some broad guidelines that do not apply to all individuals of either type. For a hunting companion or to fulfil your ambition to take part in Dog Agility, choose an American or working type Labrador. And for a more sensitive, focused and trainable dog, also go for a working type Labrador For the classic Labrador tail, and chunky head, with robust and playful temperament, go for and English, or show type. If you are a bit of a gambler and none of these things matter very much to you, then a mix between the two types might suit you. But remember that these are very broad guidelines. There are huge differences between litters, and between individuals in the same litter. Whichever type of Labrador you choose, be sure to check out health clearances, and meet the parents to ensure great temperament. Nestled in the scenic town of Red Bud, Illinois, a mere 45 minutes south of the vibrant city of St. No cost is spared in developing an environment that stimulates and thrills their animal friends , guaranteeing that their development and growth are nothing short of remarkable. This includes cutting-edge indoor play spaces and sizable outside open yards. This thorough examination ensures that you may bring home a healthy Labrador puppy bursting with vigor. Their dogs also receive crucial behavioral training and early socialization to develop into well-rounded dogs that are intelligent, sociable, and permanently happy. All in all, those who seek the happiness and company of these remarkable Labradors are in for a thrilling trip. Furthermore, here are the contact details of this breeder. A testament to their unwavering commitment, Micons Labradors stands among the finest in their craft. While many breeders limit themselves to AKC-recognized colors, Micons Labradors ventures beyond these boundaries, offering a splendid array of rare and captivating options. Step into their world, and you will discover a treasure trove of Lab colors that will ignite your imagination and fulfill your desire for distinctiveness. Rest assured, all dogs hailing from the esteemed lineage of Micons Labradors have triumphed over stringent health assessments, including elbow, hip, and eye health screenings, alongside other recommended tests. Moreover, their adorable puppies undergo more comprehensive evaluations, such as Exercise-Induced Collapse and Progressive Retinal Atrophy tests. From early potty training to comprehensive socialization, their canines are imbued with impeccable manners and an unwaveringly friendly disposition. Prepare to embark on a remarkable journey as you consider the extraordinary offerings of Micons Labradors. Within their haven, vibrant colors, unparalleled health, and genuine warmth intertwine, bringing forth a new chapter in the captivating world of Labradors. Here are the contact details of this breeder. They are situated in the stunning Hudson Valley on 12 acres of land. Tom, the owner of Prospect Hill, and his family are devoted to their Labradors. They strive to breed top-notch Labrador puppies in various colors, including chocolate, yellow, black, and fox red. Their entire household—including their home—is devoted to their dogs. They want to provide their canines with the greatest environment possible. They pick their breeding dogs cautiously. Their canines all come from champion bloodlines. They breed Labrador Retrievers of both American ad English types. They give their pets the best love and care possible. They see to it that their dog has proper medical attention and regular exercise. Additionally, they have two ponds on their land where their pups can enjoy themselves. For more information, you can visit their website or call them directly. Since the s, Wallee Kennels has been breeding superior Labrador Retriever puppies. Their goal as breeders is to create the finest Labrador Retrievers with low temperament and high intelligence. Additionally, their focus is on breeding white, yellow, black, and chocolate Labrador Retriever puppies. Since every puppy at Wallee Kennels receives unconditional love from the moment it is born until it departs for its final home, you can be confident that they have good temperaments. The doggies at Wallee Kennels are happy and easy to interact with, as they frequently interact with people of all ages adults and children and other pets and animals. Wallee Kennels Details:.

Benebone Puppy Chew Toy Check it out! Our Buying Guide Hey there, so you are looking for the best chew toy for your German Shepherd, and you want to make sure you pick the right one? You are in the right section. Here, we talk about different chew toys for GSDs and include some things you need to consider before clicking the buy button. Material Type Rubber: This is one of the safest and non-toxic materials used to produce chew toys for dogs. While rubber might seem indestructible, some dogs have been able to chew through them. A high-quality rubber chew toy would last longer than cheaply made ones. Rope: Rope or Jute is another material type you should expect to see. This kind might not last up to a month if you have an aggressive chewer at home. However, they are perfect for playing tug of war with your dog. Nylon chew toys usually have flavors that dogs like; most GSDs would find nylon chew toys irresistible. You should consider buying a very durable product that your dog would have a hard time destroying. It is built specifically for large breeds and aggressive chewers. Not all rubbers are safe! Being a die-hard dog lover, I have seen some breeds ignore some products due to their weight. A money-back guarantee policy ensures that you get a better replacement or a refund in case of a mishap. Dogs love to munch on almost everything, but not all might be safe. If you have a German Shepherd obsessed with chewing, you should get a chew toy for them. At what age do German shepherds stop chewing? Research has shown that German Shepherds stop chewing at months; however, some GSDs might retain the chewing habit after the time. How do you stop destructive chewing? Destructive chewing can be a big problem. One way to stop it is to give your dog plenty of exercises that will fend off boredom. How to Make the Right Selection The first step to making the proper selection is to check out the buying guide section above; we covered most of the primary things to help you make the appropriate choice. Feel free to read through again before deciding on which product would be best for your German Shepherd. You may also enjoy reading:. First and foremost, you want to give your dog or puppy something safe. Otherwise, it can be unhealthy for them or even worse, dangerous. If you follow the tips listed below, it should help you find something perfect for them in the end. As tempting as it may be, never give your dog bones that are cooked. When considering store-bought bones for your dog, you should check with your vet first to make sure they are the right ones after all. If you choose rawhide bones, make sure there are no additives, preservatives, gelatin, or artificial sweeteners. Make sure the bones are all-natural. Feel free to give your dogs raw bones made of chicken, lamb, turkey, or beef. You should always give your dog a bone only after a meal, and your dog should never be given pork or rib bones. Finally, always give your dog a bone that is longer than its muzzle to make extra-sure your dog is safe. These bones are perfect for German shepherds because they are durable, safe, and last a long time. They also come in a variety of flavors that will keep your dog coming back for more. Related Questions 1. Can German Shepherds Chew on Bones? Yes, and the best bones for German shepherd dogs and puppies are either natural or synthetic bone chews. Can Dogs Digest Cooked Bones? Not really. Only give dogs raw bones and not cooked because they are both easier to swallow and easier to digest. Ideally, dogs should not get more than one to two bones per week, and you should always allow a few days in between each feeding just to be extra-safe. If you have any questions or concerns, always feel free to consult with your vet before providing bones to your dog. Why Trust Us? At TrainYourGsd. Related posts:. German Shepherds love to chew on bones but there are some dangers associated with this popular canine pastime. Giving your dog the right bone will lead to many happy hours of chewing. Make sure you know the differences so you can avoid any possible mishaps. The Best Bones For German Shepherd are large uncooked beef or lamb shank bones that are bigger than their mouth so that they are unable to swallow it whole. Because of their softness, they have a tendency to splinter while your dog is chewing on them. This can cause serious injuries to the digestive tract, mouth and throat. This article will answer some common questions people have about bones, some misconceptions and of course a list of our favorite bones for your German Shepherd. We will also tell you what to do if the worst case scenario happens and your precious pup swallows a bone. Is it safe to give your German Shepherd bones? Giving your German Shepherd a bone can be safe if you take the proper precautions. However anytime you give a dog a bone there is a risk involved. Here are the risks of giving your German Shepherd a bone: Blockage Fragments of bone can become stuck in the small intestines resulting in a blockage. Surgery may be required to remove them. They can also pierce the wall of the intestine causing Peritonitis. Parts of the bone can also make there way all the way down the GI tract to the large colon. They can collect there, causing constipation and severe discomfort. The resulting trauma can cause bleeding in the rectal area. The vet may have to use an enema or manipulate the bowel to remove the fragments. Bone stuck in the stomach If a piece of bone is too large, it may be unable to make its way out of the stomach. This can result in abdominal surgery or an endoscopy to remove the bone fragment. This can cause an infection referred to as Peritonitis which can be fatal. Cracked Teeth Dogs can crack their teeth chewing on a hard bone such as a store bought cooked bone. This can lead to costly dental bills from the resulting extraction or even possible root canal needed to fix the tooth. Not to mention the pain it will cause your dog. Mouth and tongue injuries When a piece of the bone breaks off into the dogs mouth, it can be super sharp, cutting the roof of the mouth or piercing the tongue and cheek. Obstruction of the airway A bone that is too small can get lodged or stuck in the dogs esophagus causing them to choke. Pieces or shards of the bone can also get stuck in the trachea making it hard for your dog to breathe. Raw bones can be contaminated While raw bones are by far the safest choice, they can be contaminated with certain dangerous pathogens. When it gets stuck behind the lower canine teeth, it is very tough to get dislodged. Sometimes the only remedy is a trip to the Emergency Vet where your dog might need to be sedated or anesthetized to remove it. What are the benefits of giving my German Shepherd a raw bone? Although this topic is highly debated in the dog world, there are benefits to giving your dog a raw bone. You must decide for yourself if the benefits outweigh the risks. I personally think they do. Here are some of the benefits that your dog will get from a raw bone. Clean Teeth A raw bone is a great substitute for brushing your pooches toothy trains. Chewing on the bone helps stimulate the saliva enzymes and helps get rid of any food trapped in your dogs teeth. It also prevents the build up of tarter and keeps the teeth healthy and clean. This will help to avoid any trips to the vet for extractions or scaling of the teeth. Ten to twenty minutes of chewing after a meal should do the trick. Helps dog avoid bad chewing habits A nice raw bone can be a great way to distract your dog from any bad or unwanted chewing habits. Some dogs have a habit of chewing on clothing, furniture, socks. A bone will keep there attention and hopefully prevent them from any negative chewing habits. They contain calcium phosphate which can be up to four times easier for your dog to digest verses other common calcium supplements. Raw bones are excellent for larger breed dogs such as the German Shepherd. Because of their quick growth, they need the extra calcium for their large skeletal system. The best types of raw bones to give your dog: Frozen raw bones Freezing bones before giving them to your dog is a great way to slow down their chewing and digestion. Large raw bones The size of the bone will depend on the size of the dog but in general you want to give your dog large raw bones that are bigger than their head and a greater length than their muzzle. A German Shepherd for example, will require something large such as a lamb breast or a turkey neck. Meaty raw bones Raw bones with plenty of meat on them are the best for your dog. You want to have a good balance of meat to bone. Excess bone without the meat can cause constipation. If the bone is a little bare, some additional meat on the side will help even things out. Bones to avoid giving your dog: Antlers Avoid any types of antlers. They are too hard for your dog and can wreak havoc on their teeth causing injuries. Bones that are cut up into small pieces This would include knuckle bones and ox-tail bones that have been cut. Cooked bones Cooked bones that you buy from the store are the worst choice. The softness of these bones can lead to splintering which can cause injuries. Rawhide Bones Stay away from these bones as they are a choking risk. The rawhide can get soft after your dog chews on it for awhile. Because of this, your dog can easily tear off big chunks which can be swallowed if unsupervised. Small bones Smaller bones are a choking hazard. Stay away from chicken, pork or rib bones which are common but unfortunately dangerous. They are more prone to splinter causing damage to your dogs mouth. Tips for giving your dog a bone: Avoid bones that have been cut the length of the bone. Bones that have been cute the entire length of the bone are more likely to splinter and have sharp edges. Avoid giving bones with marrow to dogs with Pancreatitis. Instead try giving them an alternative. Avoid giving bones to dogs with previous dental work. Dogs that have had any teeth restored are in danger of braking those teeth. You are better off not giving them a bone. Instead give them a safe alternative. Freeze bones when they are not being used. Keep the bones in the freezer when they are not being used. It will help avoid contamination and help slow down the time it takes for your dog to chew a bone. Give your dog a bone following a meal. Let your dog finish their dinner. Then throw them their favorite bone. It should slow down the aggressiveness of their chewing lessening the chance of them swallowing part of the bone. Never leave your dog unsupervised with any bone. They can chew for too long and the bone can become small enough for your dog to swallow. They can also bite off pieces that can become stuck in their throat or pierce the inside of their mouth. Ten to twenty minutes is a sufficient amount of time for your dog to chew its bone. Throw away bones when they get old or worn down. Once a dog chews on a bone for a long period, it becomes more brittle with more chance of splintering. Throw it out and get a new bone. Bone powder as an alternative: If you are concerned about the repercussions of giving your dog a raw bone, you can grind them down into a powder and sprinkle it on their food. They will get the benefits of the minerals and nutrients without the risks we discussed earlier in the article. The calcium phosphate alone is enough to make the whole process worth it. Keep in mind, your dog will miss the benefits of chewing which can include healthier teeth and less anxiety and stress. Best coarse of action if your German Shepherd swallows a bone: Dogs love to chew and they love to eat. This can often times lead to your dog swallowing part of a bone and sometimes even the whole bone if is too small. You will definitely want to keep a close eye on your pooch when they are chewing on their favorite bone. According to Dr. Most of the time, the bone simply dissolves. He recommends staying away from large beef vertebrae especially from the butcher. Dogs have a tendency to want to swallow it since it is hard to break into smaller bits. It then can become stuck in the lower esophagus in the chest resulting in possible surgery to remove the bone. If he is and you can locate the bone in his mouth, try to safely remove the bone and clear the airway. If you cannot do this safely, take your dog to the veterinarian immediately. The second step to take, if your dog swallows a bone and seems fine, is to contact your veterinarian and ask them what to do. The size of the bone swallowed will determine the best course of action. On rare occasions your vet may decide that surgery is necessary to remove the bone. Step three is to wait and monitor your dog. If your dog becomes sick after swallowing the bone and starts to vomit, call the veterinarian immediately and try to take them in as soon as possible to get checked. Symptoms to look out for: Abnormal movements Blood in their stool or diarrhea Constipation. After all, bones provide numerous benefits including providing calcium and phosphorus, help to keep teeth and jaws healthy, and are good to relieve boredom, stress, and anxiety. Check out the list below to see the common misconceptions that people have about dogs eating bones. Never feed your dog sharp, small, cooked, pork, or rib bones. Only bones from home are safe, in most cases. In any case, bones should be disposed of after a couple of days as bacteria will form. Not all dogs can chew on bones. Many German Shepherds have poor or weakened teeth. Whether they have tooth decay, exposed enamel, or gum disease, chewing on a bone can cause instant sharp pain for your dog. Rubber or plastic bones are a safe alternative for dogs to chew on. They can be equally as dangerous as splintered bones, so choose wisely. You can see below my recommendations. Now that you know what to avoid, you can find good bones that fit within the healthy parameters from the previous section. Here are the five risks of feeding cooked bones to your German Shepherd: When bones splinter, it acts like glass. Choking is another common risk of eating cooked bones. If your German Shepherd is chewing on a bone, a piece can easily break off and go down his throat. Bones are incredibly dense, which is why they can lead to blockages when consumed. If your German Shepherd manages to swallow a piece of a cooked bone, it can get lodged in their digestive tract and cause a blockage. Sometimes, the only way to remove it is to pay for surgery. Some German Shepherds are sensitive to bone marrow, which becomes easily exposed from chewing on cooked bones. If your GSD has a sensitive stomach , then ingesting too much bone marrow could cause sickness and diarrhea as it is too rich and high in fat. Loose teeth can become shattered or ripped from their roots. Raw Bones vs. Chew Toys for German Shepherds Large raw bones are typically a safe choice for your German Shepherd to chew on, as are most chew store-bought bones. If you pulled them from a large animal, most big bones are the perfect size for German Shepherds. Raw bones should be big enough to prevent your dog from swallowing them whole. On the contrary, your GSD will get a nutritional boost from the raw bone from the calcium and phosphorus. Cons of Raw Bones You have to be very precise when choosing a raw bone for your dog. Bone marrow can cause all sorts of stomach issues if your dog is prone to tummy upsets. Supervision is necessary. Pros of Chew Toys Bones Convenient and easy to find. They allow you to continue to provide bones for your dog without requiring you to buy raw meat. Plastic bones last much longer than raw bones. If you choose a heavy-duty plastic bone, such as the Nylabone mentioned above, then your German Shepherd will be able to enjoy it for quite some time, and they also come in a range of flavors. Your dog will have to enjoy the task of chewing without being able to gnaw away at delicious raw meaty bits. Choose a flavored chew bone for your dog. The Benebone Real Flavor Wishbone is a hot choice for thousands of pet owners. The wishbone shape is ideal for dogs to grip and hold. It lasts seemingly forever, and the flavor stays around, unlike some chew toys. You can choose from chicken, bacon, or peanut. They can cause cracked teeth and other dental injuries. When the rawhide becomes soft it becomes easy for your GSD to break chunks off and swallow them. Puppies have delicate teeth and jaws, so they need softer bones that are easier to chew and digest. Here are some good options for German Shepherd puppies: Raw chicken necks or wings: These bones are small, soft, and easy to chew. They also contain cartilage and connective tissue, which can be beneficial for joint health. Raw beef marrow bones: These bones are larger and harder than chicken necks or ribs, but they contain a lot of nutrients and can be a good option for teething puppies. Additionally, any bone should be given under supervision and taken away once it becomes small enough to swallow whole. In this case, you will need to monitor them and keep an eye on their stools. However, if your GSD has accidentally eaten a cooked bone such as a rib or small chicken bone and they swallow a splinter, then you should take your dog to the vet immediately. Signs of intestinal obstruction include vomiting, lethargy, a painful tummy, and having no desire to eat. The sooner you can have your vet take a look, the sooner your dog will be safe. Note: Always watch puppies when they chew bones. They might literally bite off more than they can chew, so you need to be there to remove anything sharp or too small for their mouth. Final Thoughts German Shepherds love meaty bones just as much as any dog. As long as you follow the safety suggestions found in this post you can safely let them enjoy a good chew. Choose large raw bones bigger than their muzzle. Raw beef or lamb shank bones are a good choice. Supervise your dog at all times. There are many good alternative chew bones. Related Posts You May Like:. They are filled with natural marrow with no added additives. The natural marrow bones are bacteria-free and safe to consume. The bones are handpicked and inspected, to enhance quality and consistency. They are odor-free, have a perfect texture and thickness. They keep the teeth clean and effectively remove tartar build-up and plaque. Pros They are sourced from grass-fed free-range cattle Made from one natural ingredient Effectively removes tartar build-up and plaque They have a perfect thickness Cons Blue Buffalo Wilderness Wild Bones If you are looking for grain-free bones for your German Shepherd, the Blue Buffalo wilderness wild bones are a great option. These bones are great for a German Shepherd with a sensitive stomach. They contain zero poultry by-products, and they are formulated to strengthen the canine. They are perfectly roasted for your German Shepherd to enjoy a rich meaty taste. They are natural and have no artificial ingredients or additives. The bones are gluten-free, soy-free, and wheat-free. For a large breed like a german shepherd, these bones last long and can withstand aggressive chewing. They are stuffed with beneficial ingredients to keep your dog healthy. The bones are formulated to give your dog a healthy jaw. The rich taste makes the dog want to chew throughout, therefore strengthening the jaw. Pros They have a rich beef taste They are slow-roasted to preserve the taste They are natural.

We strive to provide families with their ideal 4 legged companion for life. We have a history of producing family friendly Goldens with willing and outgoing attitudes. Golden Retrievers often do well in agility, rally, obedience, hunting and service. Every Golden Retriever puppy is evaluated for personality and temperament from the time they are whelped. Our focus is on finding the right combination for each individual family's needs. All of our puppies are well socialized and have had exposure to many different sights, scents, sounds and surroundings before heading off to their forever home. We encourage everyone to stay in touch and let us know if they have any questions during the raising of their Golden Retriever puppy, as well as after their puppy is grown. We will provide you with complete and accurate information on getting started with your new family member, as well as an AKC new puppy packet with all the needed information such as traveling tips, grooming and of course, the basics on training. No need to worry about the process of registering your puppy, we gladly do it for you. All you need to do is come up with a name and we will take care of the rest. You and your puppy will be off to a great start. We are now offering additional services to our puppy families. We believe that a healthy puppy, starts with good nutrition. We feed top quality, holistic dog foods and treats that are sure to please. We offer these items to our puppy families at a reduced price. We want all of our 4 legged friends to get the best of the best. Most of our puppies are sold to pet family homes. This means they are sold with a limited registration and are not intended for breeding. In rare occasions, we will sell a puppy to a show or competition home with an unlimited registration, for an additional fee as well as additional contract requirements. The last litter in , was evaluated for their ability to work as service dogs, 3 of the 9 puppies qualified. We have placed one of them in a wheel chair home and another as a diabetic alert dog. These puppies have bright futures ahead of them. We are proud!!! One of which is a companion to an amazing Autistic boy and the other to a family that has been challenged with Muscular Dystrophy. We are excited to hear how they progress and have no doubt, they will be terrific. In , we have had several excellent litters, from athletic field and agility pups to easy going, laid back, family pups. We have also added a new girl to our family. We have high hopes for her. We are now providing additional training and boarding option as well as one on one help for our families and their pups. In and , we were hard at work in the confirmation ring with Nina. Nina is now a Champion and producing beautiful, intelligent and loving pups. We are not only offering training and boarding for our puppy families, we also have a wide variety of products available to keep your pooch happy and healthy. In , we were blessed to add Theo to our family. Theo was born with a cleft palate but with love, a lot of work and commitment as well as faith in what we do, he is well on his way to becoming a hospital therapy dog for children. He is a loving guy with a goofy temperament and zest for life. I couldn't imagine not having him here with me. Unfortunately, in , my oldest and 1st Golden girl Bailey was diagnosed with a tumor on her heart. She fought a good fight and continued to brighten our lives daily. We sadly said farewell to her in August, shortly after her 16th birthday. It is now a blessing that we have recently bred Bailey's great granddaughter, Greta and are hoping to continue this line of most amazing family members. Now we have arrived at , We have some beautiful new additions to our kennel. We have several girls that will be entering the show ring and a new boy in our group. I am thrilled at the temperament and looks of these dogs. I am excited to share more information as the year progresses. It was a crazy year, we were all caught off guard by Covid .Started a home renovation that went a bit sideways and evacuated for almost 2 weeks during the September fires. We made it through the year, produced some beautiful puppies and celebrated many fur kids birthdays. Hello !! Lost power for 12 days during the February freeze. Hoping we get to do some dogs shows, camping and finish some kennel updates. We have some new additions to our fur family and have celebrated Brody's 14th birthday! So far so good. Well now, is more than half way over and we are just getting caught up with some past due projects. We have some beautiful dogs in our breeding program and are looking forward to the future. Brody has just celebrated his 15th birthday in May and is going strong. His great, great grandaughter Astrid will hopefully be joining our breeding program in Januarey .Lots of great things in the future for our family of fur kids. In this kit you will receive all the basics you will need to get off to a great start with you forever friend. We will include a collapsible wire crate, crate bed, waste clean-up bags, toys, collar, lead, chew bones, treats, brushes, comb. You can customize your kit to your liking by choosing from a variety of colors and styles. All you have to do is pick out what you like when you choose your puppy and it will be here ready to go when you take your forever friend home. Share 0 Shares Everyone knows what a Golden Retriever is and how adorable they are! They are one of the most popular breeds of dogs in the USA and are known to be loyal, loving, caring, and just a bundle of joy! Besides the obvious golden color of a Golden Retriever, they also come in dark golden, cream, and lightly golden. They are full of energy and make the best companions especially if you love the outdoors. Since they are Retrievers, naturally they love the water so bring them to lakes and oceans for a nice swim! To bring home the perfect Golden Retrieve means that you need the perfect breeder. It is important to find a breeder who focuses on the health, longevity, and temperament of their dogs. The Golden Retriever puppies should also be well socialized before going to their forever home and be screened for genetic hereditary problems including hip and elbow problems. Make sure their Goldens are also AKC registered as well! The Goldens are AKC registered, and they raise their Goldens like they are part of their family and want you to have the best companion and friend forever. They are well-loved in the Oregon community and have 5-star ratings on Facebook and on Google! Everyone loves Mike and his wife and they care deeply about the quality of life they give their dogs and pups. They are always available to help you and answer any questions you have and are known to be honest and knowledgeable. Name of Owner. It is the Scappoose post office. We had to change our address on google as people would just show up and want to buy a puppy. This is not haw we home our puppies and we don't always have puppies available. About us We have a love for this breed that runs deep. Our goal is to breed Golden Retrievers free of major genetic health Issues, as well as promoting responsible dog ownership. While maintaining the integrity of the Golden Retriever breed. We primarily breed goldens as wonderful members of your Family as well as Show dogs, Hunting dogs, service and therapy dog. We are dedicated to loving and producing Golden Retrievers with good genetic health, as well as that wonderful golden temperament. A Golden Retriever will quickly become a wonderful hunting partner and an adored member of your family. You owe it to yourselves to find the best possible Golden that you can. A Whiskey Creek Golden Retriever has been carefully bred from sound animals to bring you many years of hunting and family enjoyment and loving companionship. Bringing home a Golden Retriever is a decision that should not be made without careful consideration of the traits and habits of this wonderful breed. Golden youngsters are mouthy and need to be properly trained and raised to insure you can provide for their mental and physical health and well being. All prospective clients are welcome to come visit and meet our dogs. By Appointment only and only if I do not have puppies on the ground that are not fully vaccinated. All email or phone inquiries regarding or the occasional availability of an adult dog are welcome. I will reply to all. Theft of any content or photos from this sight without written permission will be prosecuted. All right reserved

Things to do with your English Bulldog South Carolina is a great place to live with an English bulldog. With its beautiful beaches, charming towns, and mild climate, South Carolina is the perfect place to create lasting memories with your furry friend. Visit the Beaches South Carolina has some of the most beautiful beaches in the country. Your English bulldog will love playing in the sand, swimming in the ocean, and exploring the tide pools. Hike the Trails South Carolina has a number of beautiful hiking trails that are perfect for dogs. Your English bulldog will love exploring the woods and getting some exercise. Visit a Campground There are a number of dog-friendly campgrounds in South Carolina. Your English bulldog will love spending time outdoors and making new friends. Go Shopping South Carolina has a number of dog-friendly stores that are perfect for browsing with your dog. Your English bulldog will love getting some attention from the shopkeepers and trying on new clothes. The aquarium has a variety of exhibits that are sure to interest your dog, including a touch tank where your dog can touch starfish and sea urchins. Your English bulldog will love learning about the ocean and its creatures. Take a Day Trip South Carolina is located close to a number of other great places to visit. Your English bulldog will love exploring new places and meeting new people. So come on down and explore all that this great state has to offer with your English bulldog. How do you breed for a healthier English Bulldog? Like all things in life, breeding for health is simply a matter of priority. We are blind to many of the breed priorities that distract other breeders from improving the health of the English Bulldog. We focus on health and personality and very little else. We are not interested in winning a blue ribbon in the show ring. Rather, we test for things like elongated soft palates, narrow tracheas, stenotic nares, luxation in the patellar tendons, heart defects, cherry eye, optic cilia, entropion, ect. We focus and prioritize creating healthy bloodlines, therefore our bulldogs are typically much healthier than the breed as a whole. After breeding for health, what other priorities are you focused on? Our true desire is to create the perfect family bulldog. We also believe a bulldog bred for the correct personality is essential to the family unit as well. A Bruiser Bulldog is bred for intelligence and playfulness. We want our bulldogs to be full of personality and some quirk. We believe a full personality along with a little stubbornness is the true North star of the bulldog breed and is what makes the unique among other breeds. We look for these personality traits in our adult bulldogs and continue to create bloodlines that reflect these qualities. What are the steps of your adoption process if I am located in South Carolina? Check out our available English Bulldog Puppies page. At times, we have available puppies but almost always have a waiting list as well. A quick look at our available puppies is the starting point to begin the process. Send us an email or give us call .If approved to adopt one of our puppies you are welcome to place a deposit to hold until your puppy is ready to go home. Greetings from the Wysongs! Northern Indiana based, Bruiser Bulldogs offers purebred English Bulldog Puppies for sale to loving adopters seeking to find a higher quality English Bulldog. As English Bulldog breeders , Mitch and Erica Wysong have dedicated themselves to a lifelong journey of changing the culture and societal pressures of poor breeding practices within the English Bulldog Community. Mitch and Erica believe in producing a healthy English Bulldog puppy first and foremost. Through years of research and development, Bruiser Bulldogs is leading a new movement away from the overdone, wrinkled bulldog that has been long plagued by health problems. By embracing a healthier, more athletic look they are able to ensure that each and every English Bulldog Puppy for sale by Bruiser Bulldogs is supported by a platform of health tested, clean genetics. Upon adoption, each family that takes on the responsibility of a Bruiser Bulldog enters into an active and vibrant communal family of bulldog owners. Mitch and Erica believe it is their responsibility to provide emotional and mental support for the lifetime of each and every English Bulldog puppy they produce. To ensure the success of every adoption, Bruiser Bulldogs will always be committed to helping Bruiser Bulldog adopters care for their English Bulldogs to the best of their ability. I am familiar with common and uncommon health problems they may face so when my boyfriend and I decided we were ready to adopt our own english puppy finding a reputable breeder that prioritizes health was most important to us. Erica and Mitch of Bruiser Bulldogs are just that. They are experienced, ethical and quality breeders. I was referred to them by my friend that I trust after I saw their gorgeous healthy puppy. Our Puppy Primrose is the light of our lives! Bruisers was there to assist us every step of the way. We would highly recommend Bruisers Bulldogs to anyone looking for their own happy, healthy pup! Leah H. We were lucky to have come across Bruiser Bulldogs and even more so the fact that they were near our family and hometown made it even better. We have had Clementine Callie for four months now, and she is a wonderful dog. Her personality is amazing, and I think part of it is breeding and the other part is Erika and her family lovingly raising the puppies in their home with plenty of attention and snuggles. I also was impressed that, rather than send the puppies out right at 8 weeks, Erika kept ours for a few extra weeks because she was tiny and not read to leave her mom yet. It's that care that differentiates Bruisers from other breeders. Emily R. Erica was easy to work with thru the entire process from application to adopting and now beyond as we host our new family member, Chief. Her on-call support and willingness to provide open, honest advice to all of our questions and concerns continues to be appreciated. We would highly recommend Bruiser Bulldogs to anyone looking for an English Bulldog to join their family. Elizabeth W. Lady L. They are experienced, responsive and knowledgeable about all things bulldog related. They went above and beyond for us and are truly dedicated to all of their pups! We love our little girl so much and would recommend Bruiser to anyone looking for a healthy beautiful bully. Jonathan E. Erica and Mitch are trustworthy, excellent communicators, fair, passionate, and produce the best bulldogs. We were at the top of the waiting list for months and Erica reached out every litter to see if we were finally ready for a bulldog. When we were, she was very easy to work with. Her knowledge on bulldogs is outstanding. We had many questions on the process and she always knew what was best for the puppy. We've had Penny formerly Blair for two months and she is very healthy, energetic, playful, and sweet. She is great with other people and dogs. We are so happy with our pup. When we are ready for bulldog 2, we will only consider Bruiser Bulldogs. Mitch C. Bowser was born April and is an integral part of our family. When we were first exploring English Bulldog breeders our biggest concern was the overall health of the dogs. We decided to work with Erica at Bruiser Bulldogs because we liked their focus on improving the breeds breathing abilities and the fact that the puppies are raised within her family environment before coming home with their new owners. Bowser also breaths clearly and our vet was impressed with his overall health from the moment we brought him home. All that said we know English Bulldogs have a predisposition to many health issues and that his current health can not predict the future. With that In mind its important to start with a breeder that open to answer any of your questions as Erica has ours, and that strongly believes in improving the breeds overall health profile. Adam B. My sister ended up finding Bruiser Bulldogs and we knew right away that they were the breeder for us. In September we ended up driving 9 hours to pick up two Bruiser bulldog puppies- one for my husband and I and one for my mom. Jackson and Penelope have been nothing but a joy. They are both very athletic and healthy. They are also HUGE snugglers and always want to be with you. It is an absolute pleasure having these two bullies in our lives! Erica is very knowledgeable about the breed. She is very hands on throughout the process and is just overall a kind and honest person to work with. With all that being said I cannot recommend Bruiser Bulldogs enough! Collyn C. One of the reasons we chose Bruiser Bulldogs was due to the claims about breeding for health. During our first visit at our vet's office, he told us that our pup was one of the healthiest English bulldogs he had ever seen. He is healthy, happy and social. Would recommend to anyone. Christina S. We seen our dog on their website and sent them an Email. Mitch called us and personally walked us through the process and made sure we had the right dog for our family. We couldn't be happier when we picked up our dog Ramsey, Erica made sure we had everything we needed and then some. They are truly amazing people who breed truly amazing dogs! Jim T. About Us Let US introduce ourselves.We are honored that you have chosen Palmetto State Bulldogs of Charleston, SC English Bulldogs to provide the newest addition bulldog puppies to your family or program! We are truly dedicated to our puppies and their FUR-ever families. We are with you every step of the way, and are dedicated to be there for you and your bulldog throughout the years. Take a look around our site and you will see how we raise our babies; Providing them a clean and comfortable environment, anticipating their needs, and loving them like our own.Happy, Healthy bully babies From the moment our bulldog puppies come into the world, they are loved so much. For us, it is about healthy, quality puppies. We dedicate all of our time and expertise to each litter; focusing on important developmental milestones, adequate nutrition and healthy transitioning from incubator to play yard, and all puppy pen set-ups in between. English bulldog breeder, puppies for sale A Furever Friend We believe in total transparency. We welcome potential new families to meet us and our bulldog puppies. Our flight nanny can also bring your puppy to you for an additional fee. We offer puppies in an array of colors and suits; from Black Tri to full-suited Lilac, Blue, Chocolate and merle! Many of our bully babies are also triple carriers! English Bulldog breeder PalmettoStateBulldogs gmail. Exciting news coming soon about an upcoming breeding!!! One of our mommas has a "date" with a beautiful stud on June 16th, for insemination. We will be confirming puppies via ultrasound soon. Sire and Dam to be announced.Puppy Packs We take pride in every aspect of what we do. At this time, families can place a deposit to be ensured a puppy from the confirmed litters. Please, don't hesitate to request a copy of our contract for your review. There are times when we agree to make slight changes to YOUR contract. It never hurts to ask.Bradford is who we use for "bulldog specific" issues. His facility offers affordable laser treatment for common issues such as Cherry Eye repair, elongated palate laser repair, skin issues, or even routine vet exams. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. What We Are About When we began we had one mission - to share our love of English Bulldogs with the world by raising the healthiest, happiest English Bulldogs out there. Every aspect of what we do is out of love for our English Bulldogs, not the business - and our outcomes prove that an ethical approach will triumph, even to the toughest of critics. We willingly submit each of our Bulldogs DNA to keep on file and to ensure the integrity of the breed. We feel very blessed to have the opportunity to be able to produce such. Every puppy is raised in a home setting. Our home and our nanny homes are thoughtfully designed to ensure our English Bulldogs are primed for success, but it is the round-the-clock love and care from our whole family, close friends, nanny homes and extraordinary veterinarian care that we provide which truly set our furry friends apart. By owning the only the best and healthy English Bulldog bloodlines, we can guarantee impeccable pedigree and Healthy pups. Extensive genetic testing, veterinary care, and a health guarantee means the only thing you'll have to worry about is choosing the perfect pup! Please take note we do not choose quanity before quality. If you are not on our waiting list please concider joining. We produce each litter only to better the breed, not our bank accounts. Each litter counts as a step closer to our goal and slow and steady wins the race.

Fight Drive Avoidance If your goal is to learn how to train a dog in protection work, your job begins by understanding these drives and how they relate to each other. If a trainer does not fully understand drive development, he may as well not even start this work because he is never going to accomplish anything in protection training. If you are new to this sport, you need to listen to what I am about to say about drives and then either watch my video on the subject The First Steps of Bite Work or go to an experienced trainer and learn from them. Every time you watch a dog doing bite work, you should be thinking "What drive is this dog in and why? When he switches drives, you need to try and recognize when that happens and why. In my video, I will define and demonstrate drives by showing you dogs that have good drives and dogs that lack drive. I want the viewer to recognize when a dog has the potential for protection work. Probably just as important, I want them to understand when a dog has not inherited the necessary drive and therefore cannot be trained in protection work. Right from the beginning, everyone needs to understand that dogs must inherit the drives for protection work. It is a genetic factor and neither a factor of training nor a factor of breed. In other words, if a dog does not have the genes for protection work, then you are not going to be able to train the drives into the dog. Just because a dog is a German Shepherd does not mean that it can be trained in bite work. That would be like saying that just because I have a horse, I think it can run in the Kentucky Derby. The first part of the video deals with defining the drives a dog uses in protection work. We then go into the training steps for the dog, the handler, and the helper. To be effective in protection training, the handler and helper must work as a team. Prey Drive The prey drive is the easiest drive to see and understand in our dogs. It can be recognized in a puppy as early as 6 weeks of age. Prey drive is the desire to chase a moving object, and to grab it and shake it once it's caught. Puppies exhibit prey drive when they chase a ball or play tug of war with your pant leg or sleeve. Hunting dogs that retrieve a dummy are also demonstrating prey drive. When you see a dog chasing a rabbit, a cat, or a Frisbee, you are watching that dog's prey drive in action. In Schutzhund or protection training, when a dog grabs a sack as the helper runs by, it is working in prey drive. When an older dog chases a helper off-leash in an escape bite or a runaway bite downfield, that dog is also working in prey drive. When a dog is worked in prey, it does not feel threatened. Prey work is a comfortable drive for a dog to be in. Dogs look at prey work as a game. For them, it's a game of tug of war. They don't feel stressed when they play tug of war. Think of a Labrador chasing a ball. It doesn't feel threatened as it chases after its ball. The dog's body posture during prey drive is alert, with its tail up or wagging, this is probably the easiest thing for new trainers to spot , there is no hair up on the dog's back while biting in prey, and it is not growling or showing its teeth. The prey bark is a higher-pitched insistent bark. A dog when barking in prey does not sound or look nervous or stressed. During bite training, we use prey drive in two ways: We use the dog's prey drive to teach it the mechanics of biting and fighting. In other words, we use the early prey work to teach it to identify the sack, tube, and sleeve as prey items. The dog is taught that when it sees its owner or a helper with a sack or sleeve, he is about to play tug of war and the item to bite is the sack. During this work, we teach the dog to begin to bark for his bite. We teach it that it must have a firm grip or it will lose its prey item, and we teach it that when the sleeve is slipped or dropped by the helper, the dog must carry and hold the prey item. We will go into the reasons for all this in the training steps of this video. More importantly, when a dog matures, we use the comfort level of working prey drive to calm the dog and relieve the stress that builds in defense training. We are going to discuss defense later in this video and will go into more detail on it at that time. In our training, the prey bite becomes a comfort zone for the dog. It's a place in the work where the dog can calm down without stopping the work. By teaching the dog to move into its prey drive when we want it to, it learns to relax after a particularly stressful training session. One thing to remember about prey drive is that it is extinguished or is diminished as the dog gets tired. In other words, an exhausted dog does not have much interest in playing tug. This will come into play during our training. The difficult thing for new trainers to grasp is the fact that as training progresses and a dog gains experience, the picture of a dog working in prey drive will change. When an uneducated person sees a dog being trained in prey, he would think that this dog is out there actually trying to kill the helper, when in fact, the dog is just playing a rough game of tug with the helper or handler. Before we move on, let's take one more look at several stages of prey drive. Each dog we see will be doing something different, but all are working in prey. If you are new to bite training, this may seem complicated but hopefully, we will help clear up the confusion as the video progresses. In the police DPO trials, the helper does an escape and the dog chases him down and apprehends him in prey drive. Schutzhund is currently going through a series of rule changes concerning the courage test, but the old courage tests started with the helper running away from the dog. When the dog was sent after the helper, the dog was functioning in prey drive. While all of the dogs we just watched were working in prey, their level of prey, the intensity of the prey work, and the way their prey drive was interacting with the other drives produced different pictures. Defensive Drive For a dog to do police service work, serious personal protection work, or good Schutzhund work, it must have a solid defensive drive. A dog's defensive drive is the drive to protect itself from a perceived threat. When a young dog is working in its defensive drive, it is not in a comfortable situation. The dog thinks that it's in a position where it is being threatened or attacked and as a result, it is stressed. For our training, we want a dog, that even though it is unsure of its position, it will initially react to a limited amount of threat with an aggressive challenge. This willingness to defend himself is an inherited characteristic. It cannot be trained into the dog no matter how hard you try. If a dog has not inherited the defensive gene, there is no way we are going to make this dog a protection dog. A few good examples of this are most labs, golden retrievers, huskies, or other such breeds. These dogs just don't carry the gene for protection work. The most that can be expected from these dogs is that they will bark at strangers. But when threatened, they will go into avoidance and run. Even though a dog may inherit the defensive gene, a dog's defensive drive does not start to appear until it reaches puberty. For some dogs, this can be 1 year of age. Defense does not fully develop until a dog reaches mental maturity, this can be as late as 3 years of age, depending on the bloodline. The picture we see of an untrained dog in defense is a different picture than what we have seen in prey work. Initially, defense is a picture of insecurity. That dog's bark will be deeper and more serious. The hair may be up on his back and he will be showing a lot more teeth in the form of a snarl. The hair up is a natural reaction to make himself look bigger and more serious. This is a common reaction for animals; we see it with Australian lizards, they have a flap of skin on their neck that flares up to make themselves look more ferocious. Hopefully, this will scare predators away. The defensive bark is a deeper guttural bark. Once you identify it, there is a definite difference in the prey bark and the defensive bark. In defense, dogs will often carry their tail differently than in prey. The tail will not be wagging as much and will be carried lower than in prey. A defensive bite is also different than a prey bite. It is done with the front part of the mouth. Often dogs will grip with a full mouth in prey and then only with the front of the mouth in defense. When you hear trainers say that the grip is weakened in defense, they mean the dog is only biting with his front canines and is often chewing on the sleeve. New trainers should think of the tail and the grip or bite as a temperament barometer. When the dog's tail is up high and wagging, the dog is comfortable with what is going on. As more pressure is added, the tail will wag less, it will come down and the grip will get weaker. If the pressure continues and the dog approaches avoidance, which is the point where it will run away , the tail will be tucked between his legs. The safest time to put a dog into defense is after it has reached mental maturity and after it has gone through the foundation work in prey drive. The defensive drive can begin to show as young as 4 or 5 months of age in the form of barking at strange circumstances. It does not develop to the full extent until the dog is 18 to 24 months old and with some dogs, not until they are 3 years old. Experienced helpers can begin to introduce a young dog to defense when it reaches puberty. This is usually around 11 to 14 months. New trainers that make the mistake of introducing defense before a dog is mentally mature enough to deal with the pressure are making the biggest mistake of their training career. Pushing a dog into defense before it is mentally mature enough to deal with the stress is the quickest way in the world to end a dog's protection career. Some dogs have excellent prey drive but lack defense. A common example is the black lab that loves to chase balls but could never be trained in protection because it lacks defense. Unlike prey drive, the defense does not diminish as the dog gets tired. Another way to look at it is that no matter how tired your dog is, it is still going to react to someone that is threatening him. American bloodline German Shepherds often have some degree of prey drive, but .That's why they cannot do Schutzhund work, much less police service work. Working defensive drive takes a skilled helper that is adept at reading and understanding temperament and knowing exactly how far a dog can be pressured or threatened in defense before it is pushed into avoidance. Fight Drive As we progress through training, the dog's view of the helper changes. Initially, in prey work, the helper is a friend that plays tug or a person that is always trying to steal the prey. Then in defensive training, the dog's view of the helper changes to a person that brings stress to his life. The helper now threatens him and is someone to be suspicious of. As the defensive training progresses, the dog's confidence level increases if he is genetically capable. He is taught how to defeat the helper in every circumstance. These many experiences slowly change the dog's view of the helper. He begins to see the helper as a fighting partner, as someone to get mad at, and not someone to be nervous about. When this begins to happen, we say that the dog is developing fight drive. We define fight drive as the interaction of prey and defense where the dog carries the forwardness of prey with the intensity of defense. The image of a dog working in fight drive is an adult dog with a great deal of self-confidence in all environments and every circumstance. It's a dog that does not look or act insecure during his protection work. The level of intensity during bite work is very high. The dog will display a tenacity towards fighting that is not seen in younger, immature dogs. The only way that a dog can gain fight drive is through experience and training. They don't just wake up one morning when they are 3 years old and have fight drive. Dogs need to go through a sound foundation of prey drive development and then, at the correct time, they must be introduced to a step-by-step defensive training program. It is important to understand that only dogs with good genetics and proper training will develop fight drive. An interesting fact is that dogs with strong prey drive develop the best fight drive We also see dogs with dominant temperaments develop fight drive. When you hear people talk about fight drive being defense, they are not exactly correct. The difference in the two drives is the way in which the dog views the helper and the comfort level of the dog during the work. Remember this distinction: A dog with fight drive views the helper as a fighting partner. When he sees the helper, he gets mad, he wants to take the fight to the helper. New trainers are going to have a difficult time differentiating between a dog that barks in prey versus a dog that barks with the intensity of defense and a dog that is barking in fight drive. Don't worry, this is only normal. Every new trainer goes through this confusion. It took me a long time to get this clear in my head. As you gain experience, your skill at recognizing these drives will improve. Avoidance Avoidance is most commonly used in obedience training. It is a drive we do not want to bring into protection training. When the stress level becomes too high for the nerves of a particular dog, it will turn and retreat. When that happens, the dog is in avoidance. Some people think of avoidance as a drive. I prefer to think of it as a form of defense. It is defense in the extreme. After all, isn't the safest defense an effective retreat? Once a dog is put in full avoidance, it instantly learns that this is an easy way to deal with pressure. It can take months to bring a dog back to the point you were at just before he broke and ran. When we talk about avoidance, we also need to talk about being hesitant. There is a difference. Being hesitant is when a dog takes a step back to evaluate what's going on when he is stressed. This usually happens with young dogs that are raised to a new level of stress. Being hesitant is not bad. In fact, it is actually good. When the dog overcomes his hesitation and learns how to deal with the new situation, it becomes a stronger, more confident dog. A dog in avoidance will tuck its tail between its legs, lay its ears back, get its hair up on his back and run. A dog that is unsure will not have its tail between its legs. It may come down a little but it will not be tucked. He may look a little confused but he will not look afraid. There is a difference here. Trainers need to develop the skill to recognize the difference between being hesitant and avoidance. During later stages of training, we will intentionally put a dog in this unsure area and make him learn how to fight his way out of it. I am often asked by new trainers if they can protection train their young dogs. I have a little story that I use to answer this question. If you have a son and want to teach him to fight, you send him to karate classes. These classes are all prey drive work where he learns the technique of fighting. He can compete in a karate competition and get the devil kicked out of him and this is still prey drive work because it's a game. Granted a serious game, but still a game. You can assist your son in his training to this point by helping him learn the basic skills of fighting and coaching him through the work. The same is true with your dog. You can assist him in learning the basic prey skills. You can even let him practice the basic ones on you. If your son goes downtown on a Friday night and gets into a knife fight where he is fighting for his life, he is then doing defensive work. While a handler can train his own dog in prey work, he can never put his dog in the position where the dog feels like his owner or handler is trying to kill him. Just as you would never put your son in a position where he felt you were trying to hurt or kill him. The same follows with your dog. The owner can take his dog through the prey drive training to the point where the dog has learned many of the moves or skills he needs to do bite work. In fact, if the trainer's neighbor would come over someday and see the dog biting the sleeve on the handler's arm, even though it was in prey, the neighbor would think that the dog was attacking his handler, when in fact the dog is just playing an advanced game of tug of war with his handler. When the handler needs to be worked in defense, he is going to have to find an experienced helper to work his dog. There is no way around this. We will give you some ideas in our video on how to do a limited amount of defense work without a skilled helper, but the reality is that there is only so much that can be done before you need someone with experience. I will say this: For personal protection work, if all the foundation work is done properly, the amount of additional help that is required is much less. If you find this information interesting, you need to read my article on Drive Interaction and Drive Thresholds. This video was released in August but still has several concepts that are useful even today. You will get as much information as I can give in 2 hours. It took me 24 years of experience in training and studying protection dogs to produce this video. The DVD takes you through a step-by-step training program and explains it in a way that someone with no experience with dogs can understand. Because German Shepherd puppy care is just as important as drive development. After the nervous system is set in 21 days there are several weeks where the puppies become slightly independent of their mother. If a puppy is separated from the rest of the litter for up to 24 hours it can have long-lasting effects such as insecurity, reactivity, and separation anxiety. When the shepherd pup is 7 weeks he can begin positive reinforcement and even gentle use of a training collar. The Starmark training collar is an excellent choice. This is also the time the pup can go to his new pet parent. Most people have at least heard of the fear imprint stage of 8 weeks or critical period. But thinking generally, the more sensitive puppy bonding age overall ends at 12 weeks. So if you were looking for signs your dog imprinted on you, just make sure you spent meaningful time with him at this early age. When you think of German shepherds protecting their owners either in class or in videos, consider who is making the decisions, The dog or his owner? A dog protecting his owner can have mixed emotions. And he would perceive it that way because he depends completely on the owner. But in general, he should know his place as a dog. However, look at the body language when you give your dog affection. Generally, the ears should be back and the tail doing somewhat of a lower wag. Another example would be not allowing your dog to bring you a toy. In this case, the dog is initiating interaction. Apart from bones, chew, or small dog toys, interactive toys like tug of war dog ropes should be put away and presented by the owner for play. After the exercise, the tug toy should be put up. Other things you should initiate are outdoor access, where the dog sleeps when it is time to eat, and what direction he goes on the leash. German Shepherd Puppy Obedience Training If you are planning as little training as possible to protect your family, at least consider a strong recall and technical leash handling. That said, here I listed the following obedience commands for reliable German Shepherd defense training. Understand How to teach a dog to Come without treats. You should begin with some food reward but then move up to a prong collar for dogs. Herm Sprenger size 3. And they can already begin with that same size at a few months old. Eventually, you will need your dog off-leash training. Your dog will jump the gun but to be able to turn around instantly and come back to you is important. Learn How to teach a dog to heel. And not because your Shepherd needs to look pretty on a field. But because your shepherd needs to have a point of reference. He needs to stay behind your left ankle so he knows where you are, not next to you as in competitive sports. A couple more benefits to having your dog parallel with you — He will naturally be in more of a defense mode being closer to you, and facing the same direction as he will be able to see the threat. Know-How to teach a dog to sit. This will help the dog be stationary. An example scenario for this would be a very protective shepherd sitting 6 feet behind you. Another scenario would be if your dog likes to bite, put him into a sit to build self-control then release him for the bite. The bite itself is the biggest reward for many protection dogs that enjoy it. The last tip I will give for this command is to have your dog sit from the bite itself. Many dogs do not have a good release command but would sit and let go of someone or a bite suit. Understand How to teach a dog to leave it. It is a great way for a dog to disengage with something while not having to call him back to you. For example, maybe your dog hypothetically went for the wrong guy when there was a guy closer to you he should have gone for. Learn How to teach your dog to drop it. Your dog should not be confused between disengaging with something leave it and letting go of something he already has possession of out. As I mentioned earlier, start his commands gently as early as 7 weeks, and take your time! Do not rush this, lest you sacrifice performance. Is your dog already older? How to train a 2-year-old German shepherd for obedience is the same movement. Meaning that you would have the same range of motions to position your dog for compliance. To be on the safe side with an adult male, make sure you are solid on canine leadership. Knowing how to show your dog you are the pack leader is essential for obedience. How can you command his physical body if you do not have his mind? You are helping develop what is. I will give you a couple of exercises to do. For the first one, get a tug toy with a handle on the end of it. Then connect a Leash to it. From there, move backward in an engaged manner with your dog. You are essentially saying chase me. And your puppy must always come in for the bite. Do not jam the tug toy in his mouth. You have most likely seen this mistake before. However, if the pup attempts to rebite regrip let him. You are working toward the full mouth bite. Once his mouth is on the dog tug, give it to him but continue to hold the leash handle, never giving him full possession. When he moves back, minimize your tension to allow his muscles to contract. When he moves forward, move your arm away from you or toward you so the leash tension stays. That continuous tension maintains the challenge. Once he tries hard to pull to the ground, shake, or move back forcefully, let your leash go limp. This will give him a win and encourage the behavior. This will not teach your dog to be the boss of you, by the way. That would be you allowing him to take the tug toy with him at the end, which you should avoid by putting the jute, nylon, or leather tug up. Another tip about leash tension; if your dog is into the exercise but not pulling very hard, increase your lead tension. Ideally, in a few seconds, you would have pulled the tug away unless he pulled harder, thus earning a win. Usually, you would pull in an upward motion for this. For the 2nd exercise, The owner would not move back with the dog as in the first exercise. Usually if he swings it around, teasing the dog it will create an excited dog. From there he can swing it in front of the dog and get him to bite. The idea is to draw out the bite. Ideally you would not want the tug going at the dog directly. Puppies can also start bite sleeves very early but I do not recommend the owner wear the sleeve. And the same concepts apply. The dog gets wins. The dog flirt pole Is another dog toy to develop your dogs drive. Simply have your puppy or adult GSD Chase it and give it to him as a reward by going limp. Your dog will most likely take his mouth off of it, try to shred it and put his paw on it. This is when you can take it back and begin another chase, leading him back and forth or in circles. When to Introduce the 1st Agitator Some German Shepherd working line puppies Will defend owners or at least themselves at 12 weeks of age. I have personally worked with puppies like this from various breeds that have fiery temperaments, even younger than that. Although for most dogs this is not normal. Different levels of agitation should be introduced to your puppy at various periods of his development. And the bite gets better. That said, the amount of stress you put on a dog should be measured by their level of maturity. Every dog is a little different. And the more insecure the dog is genetically, the longer you should wait to do GDS protection training. Ideally, you might consider waiting until 6 months to a year to bring in a agitator that challenges your dog and you. This is where you will truly find out if your German Shepherd will protect you. Not to defend himself or your house or his back yard or to bite because of prey drive. German Shepherd protection is very powerful. Think about it. If someone was threatening you audibly in public you may have plenty of options to run away. But if someone grabbed your toddler you might try to hurt them, quickly and without hesitation. Consider beginning this exercise in a narrow pathway where the dog cannot ignore the situation. A very narrow alley or even a hallway in a building. Have the dog on a leash and harness or at least a very wide flat collar. Leather Collar is best. The dog can either be tied to something, in the control of a family member or a very good friend. The owner would be acting out as The victim of an attack. The person hitting the owner can use a Styrofoam cylindrical object like a flotation device or even a wiffleball bat. But the attack should look real. The owner should lay on the ground and be completely helpless, squirming and arms flailing. The instant the dog growls or barks at the attacker they should immediately disappear. After the dog is predictable, replicate the scenario and add more pressure to the dog. For example, A little closer to the attack or the dog has to bark more aggressively to make the bad guy go away. Also, after the dog predictably barks for the first time, add a verbal command. Again, the motivation is natural so most dogs will already bark. You do not need to teach When the dog gets close enough he should have a dog muzzle for biting purposes. A good rule of thumbs, if the GSD is making contact, he would bite. To Train your German shepherd to protect to his full potential, get a trainer with a dog bite suit. This will help him break past some of the taboos of putting his mouth on human skin without the muzzle on. Dogs definitely know when the suit is on and off and some make a game out of it. Just a final thought. Do you see the difference from what I described here vs next to his owner while protecting? German Shepherd protection training cost Can quickly turn into the thousands. But if you have your dog under control first personal protection does not have to be expensive at all. German Shepherd Guard Dogs I will differentiate German Shepherd guard dog training from personal protection for the convenience of categorization. Obviously there is some crossover where another expert could disagree. German guard dogs already have it in the breed. And a guard dog is just that. He is not protecting you while holding down the fort. Does your dog already bark at people when they come over? Does he scan your yard? A simple exercise would involve a person acting suspicious at your door. You can also stage it where the person steps into the home or into the yard. But the dog should be on a leash and harness. Otherwise if your dog was off leash he may not pursue the guy. Once the dog begins to bark, the guy should run away. So if personal protection is instinct regarding the owner, and to guard is to be like a junkyard dog, an attack dog would go for anyone on the street also called green dogs. And of course a given dog can meet all that criteria. How to train your German shepherd to attack is called training a dog in defense. This is because he is not actually protecting you or the house. He is defending himself! So you are literally learning How to make your German shepherd aggressive. This comes with a huge responsibility. You should have your dog fully trained in a couple commands first and muzzle trained first. Begin by having your dog on a harness or a wide collar and leash. You would be the one holding the other end of the leash. Have a planned stranger approach him from around 30 feet away. They should walk slowly toward him. Their shoulders should be squared with the dog and staring at him as if they were going to pick a fight. The strange person would refuse to look to the right or left. Once the dog growls or barks the person should run away out of sight. While the dog is snarling you should praise him. Once the guy disappears, give your dog affection. After the guy returns and you add a verbal command, observe. Does your dog bark immediately? Once he starts to get better put more pressure on him. Eventually were the guy would get closer and the dog would need a muzzle. You can work on the physiology of his bite with a suit. Although I would not be the one to wear the suit with my own dog. Otherwise the dog will think he cannot make the threat go away. He will end up with a dog that gives up. So yes, only do few minute sessions for this at the beginning. In that case your dog would already have went for the bite. German shepherd police training German Shepherd police dogs have very high prey drive. There is no fear involved when chasing and are experiencing a predatory state of mind. These lines of shepherds often come out fairly dominant as well. They begin as a Working line German Shepherd puppy. And that is their job they continue doing. To give you a brief idea of dog selection within police and military dogs, look at the this excerpt from the Second World War. During World War II 40, dogs were recruited, 18, were distributed and out of those About where we turn because of temperament or some other physical problem. Ultimately, about 10, were trained for the military Waller, .To simply sum things up, a personal protection dog is taken up with his owner. His master is his world.

Dogs are loved by most humans, and the Golden Retriever happens to be one of the most popular breeds in America. They are beautiful, hardworking, and fun-loving dogs who are unconditionally affectionate toward their owners. They are very competitive and are often used in hunting scenes for sniffing out and retrieving game for hunters. Others are employed as walking guides for the blind. The high-spirited nature of puppies tends to last longer in this breed up until adulthood, so you are sure to have lots of fun with your Golden Retriever. Knowledge about their coat from pup to adulthood can help you better care for your Golden Retriever. As puppies, they are born with soft and fluffy hair coats which help to keep them warm. This hair begins to change as they grow, starting from the tail. The new growth is darker and coarser, pushing the soft and fluffy hair aside so that it forms an undercoat; this is what makes them double-coated. Shedding The Golden Retriever is quite a generous shedder, dropping the most hair during late Spring and late Fall. Care of the Coat As most Golden Retrievers have long hair, it is important to properly manage their coat. Especially as they get older, dogs of this breed may not be able to groom their fur properly, and when the thick coat is shed it may clump together and form mats. If there are twigs, leaves or grass seeds tangled up in their hair, they will be even more difficult to remove after the bath. Adult Golden Retrievers might not need to be bathed any more than once in six to eight weeks, but as puppies are much more energetic and prone to dirtying up, they might need to be bathed twice a week. You can find the best shampoo to use on a Golden Retriever's fur here. Brushing the Golden once or twice a week is good for their coat; this should, however, be increased to a daily activity during the shedding season. If you own a puppy, then you should start brushing them sooner so that they get used to it. Start with a soft brush and progress to a stiff-bristled one as they grow. A lot of commercial dog foods are well formulated to cater to those needs. There are also numerous supplements available for a long, shiny coat. If you decide to feed them homemade food, it may help to enlist the help of a veterinary nutritionist to ensure you are meeting all their nutritional needs. We recommend using an inch-wide collar for your long-haired Golden Retriever, as using a wider collar could lead to matting, and using a narrower one can cause skin irritation, asphyxiation, and hair loss. Also, while this breed is great in search and rescue operations, they can be just as clumsy and may still go missing. They will bathe your dog, clean their ears, and cut their nails. A grooming salon also takes care of trimming their coat to the length you want. If your Golden has a skin condition that requires special shampoo, you can discuss this with your groomer so that they use the prescribed skincare on your dog during their grooming session. Conclusion Golden Retrievers are a lovable breed of pets that are loyal to their families. But that beautiful coat needs care and attention to avoid getting matted. Taking proper care of them is part of our responsibility as pet owners to ensure our Golden Retrievers are healthy and happy. Golden puppies are not born with full hair, though. Instead, they have short, fluffy coats, which later grow into a long, shiny hair. So, at what age does a Golden Retriever get long hair? A Golden Retriever starts growing long hair on its tail at three months of age. The feathers on its legs, chest, and stomach start showing at about one year. Some dogs might sport longer or heavier coats than others. This article will explore what determines the age at which your Golden Retriever gets long hair. Finally, you will learn how to take care of your Golden Retriever to ensure his coat remains healthy and shiny. This article may contain affiliate links and loyalgoldens may earn a commission if a purchase is made. Unlock your goldens natural intelligence and see just how quickly problem behaviors disappear. This is the best at home dog training I've ever used! The outer coat of long hair extends to the tail and underbody but is longest in the areas where it feathers out away from the body. These areas include the tail, chest, legs, and stomach. This comes down to the specific genes they received from their parents. Note: In traditional Scotland, Golden Retrievers accompanied hunters on their hunting trips, and their work was to retrieve prey. The dogs sported long hair and thick undercoats, which protected them from the biting cold and heat. It will take about 3 months before you begin to see the first signs of longer hair, usually on their tail. From this stage on, a Golden puppy starts sprouting feathers aka longer hair. This growth marks a departure from puppy fluff and the beginning of the long, full coat characteristic of a mature Golden Retriever. This will help you estimate more accurately when your puppy might get his longer hair. Golden Retriever Hair Growth Stages As mentioned earlier, a Golden Retriever puppy starts growing adult hair at approximately three months old. However, this growth is subtle and may not be noticeable until he is closer to one year old. Your Golden Retriever can be considered to have a fully grown coat when he is two years of age. Long adult hair starts growing first at the tail. This feathering process then proceeds to the legs and stomach. With time, the entire body gets the adult coat, which tends to be darker than the former puppy fur. Feathered fur is usually light and soft and is useful for temperature regulation; it thickens during the cold season and thins during warmer months. Interestingly, Golden puppies do not shed their puppy fur. Instead, once new hair starts growing, the puppy fur gets nudged aside by the newer and longer outer coat. Golden Retriever puppies are actually born with their undercoat. They grow their long hair out over the top as they get older. Eventually, the undercoat grows thicker as the longer outer coat begins to cover it. This transition takes almost 18 months, though, for most Retrievers, the full coat grows once the dog is more than a year old. If he spends considerable time outdoors, he is bound to get a much thicker coat than if he were to stay indoors. The mature coat helps keep your dog both warm and dry, depending on the weather. The dog also sheds more during the summer months in order to keep cool. The thing is, for double-coated dogs, the undercoat grows much faster than the outer coat. As such, when you shave your Golden, the hair that grows back tends to look dull and uneven. Furthermore, your dog needs his full coat to protect him from the sun. Besides, Golden Retrievers are heavy shedders, and frequent grooming reduces the amount of shed hair found around the house. Early grooming is also beneficial in other ways: It allows your puppy to get used to grooming, thus making the activity easier and even enjoyable to him as he becomes an adult. For Golden Retrievers with long hair, grooming helps keep the hair in check and reduces excessive shedding Brushing encourages blood circulation in the skin, which stimulates the hair follicles and promotes hair production. Start by using a soft brush and always ensure that you brush parallel to the hair growth. Do this daily or once a week. You may add a pin brush and a rake Amazon to your grooming tools as your puppy matures. The rake is excellent for removing debris and detangling messy undercoat hair. Discover how to train your Golden Retriever by playing games : 21 games to play with your Golden that will make them smarter and better behaved! This will help make way for new growth and reduce the amount of fur that settles on your clothing. When washing your Golden retriever, try to use shampoos with the least amount of chemicals like this one at Amazon. This helps retain the hair better by reducing shedding. If your dog has skin issues, consult your vet. The vet will determine the cause of the problem and advise on diet change or the appropriate mode of treatment. These beneficial Omega acids can be in fish oil, coconut oil, and olive oil, or through additional vitamin supplements Amazon found to be good for Golden Retrievers. Also, beef bones containing bone marrow are excellent for healthy skin. Remember to clear this with your vet if your dog has allergies that would prevent him from consuming any of the recommended foods and supplements. Watch Out for Unusual Shedding Golden Retrievers shed their hair year-round but the shedding becomes especially heavy twice a year in the spring and fall seasons. However, if the shedding seems unusual or: The shedding is excessive and out of season Your dog is losing large patches of hair You may need to visit your vet since this could be a medical issue. Your dog might be suffering from a fungal or bacterial infection, a food allergy, or external parasites such as fleas or mites. If the hair loss is accompanied by a strong odor, see my article Smelly Golden Retrievers What Stinks? Here are some useful suggestions on how to accomplish this: Keep your dog clean. Long hair coats can trap twigs and leaves, which could cause the hair to tangle and mat. Always remove such items before your dog takes a bath — every weeks for adults but more often for puppies as they get dirtier. Brush the coat often. Have a regular brushing routine. Brush your Golden Retriever more often during shedding season — like daily. Provide high-quality nutrition. This should contain the right nutritional balance and include minerals, vitamins, fiber, proteins, carbohydrates, and fats. Final Thoughts Every Golden Retriever follows a unique timeline when it comes to growing long hair. Even their hair color appears in different shades of gold. Keep looking out for the initial feathery patches, and once these kick in, you will be sure that long hair is on the way. With time, your reward will be a coat full of lustrous, shiny golden hair. They are slimmer and more athletic than a classic Golden Retriever. The Golden Field Retriever is smaller in stature, with more energy and drive and has a hunting and retrieving instinct. Different Types To reiterate, the Golden Field Retriever does have shorter hair than most other retrievers, but it would still not be considered short. Technically, there is only one type of Golden Retriever, however, there are multiple variations of the breed. One being the Golderman, one is the field Retriever. A shorter coat is actually inherited. Yes, the coat comes from the parents. Obviously, all breeds, all dogs grow at different rates. What is advanced for one, may not even be average for many. So at what age will your Golden Retriever begin to grow the long coat? The Golden Retriever actually grows quite quickly. For the majority, they will reach their full growth by the time they are a year old. The coats, however, will take longer to grow. On average, the coat will not fully fill in until the dog is roughly 1. This does actually make it somewhat easy to estimate the age of a Golden Retriever. If they have long hair, then you know they are at least 1. Of course, their coat may still grow a little more. Long Coats and Allergies To be perfectly honest, it is not the coats that people are allergic to when they say they have an allergy with dogs. The allergy is likely from the dander, which is dead skin cells. This should be known before purchasing a Golden. Truth be told, when the coat on a Golden is trimmed or cut, this could cause health issues for the Retriever and it could also ruin the gorgeous coat of the Golden Retriever. Another issue you will need to consider before choosing a Golden Retriever. If you are considering a Golden, but want short hair to eliminate the shedding. You likely do not want a Golden. Most animals, dogs and cats included, do shed at least twice a year. Some animals, it may be minimal, for others, it seems endless. You may also find hair in some of the strangest locations. Even if you take your Retriever to a groomer, this will not entirely prevent loose hairs from floating all over the house. Including landing on your dinner plate. There is likely going to be dog hairs everywhere including the furniture and also rooms that the dog never enters. There are a few things that you can do to help minimize the amount of hair floating through your home. Brush your Golden Retriever on a daily basis Bathe the Retriever every other month Be sure to feed them a high quality dog food Never Shave Even in the hottest weather, or when you are tired of the dog hair, you cannot make a sudden decision to shave the hair off your Golden Retriever. The Golden Retriever is gifted with a Double Coat. The undercoat is shorter and soft. The outer coat is lengthier, smooth and waterproof. This is meant to keep the dirt and debris off of them. Again, you really are harming your Golden Retriever when you shave him. That undercoat is there to regulate the body temp even when it is hot outside. Options There are options if you want a short haired Golden Retriever. Goldens are known for the long hair, even when the hair is shorter than some other dogs, the hair is longer than a short haired dog. One option is to consider a different breed of dog. You may want to consider one that has short hair or even very little hair. However, even a short haired dog will shed at times. I was a parent to a Chihuahua, until she took a trip over the Rainbow Bridge. Very short hair on her, yet she still shed. There are times now, if I go into a storage tub, I will still find some of her short hairs. Basically, you will come across dog hair whether it is long or short. You could consider a Golden Doodle, a Labrador or another breed known for short hair. There are breeders who specifically breed Golden Retrievers with short hair. This will take research on your part if you insist on a Golden Retriever, but prefer short hair. The variations in hair length on the Golden Retrievers is due to mutant genes that have been passed down generations. To be considered a Golden Retriever, the American Kennel Association requires that the list of characteristics for each dog breed is adhered to tightly. This means to be a purebred Golden Retriever, the coat must be X inches in length. If it is not, that means that the dog has been mixed somewhere in the generations. When originally bred over in Scotland, the intention was to accompany the owner and retrieve the game that is shot while on a hunting trip. The breeder knew the weather would be a factor for the animal, so the hair needed to be long, with a short undercoat to regulate the canine's body heat. The outer coat should resist water and debris and dirt. What started as a need and requirement, soon became an aesthetic want in those who chose to have one of these Golden colored dogs. Breeding for a pure Golden Retriever created uniformity of the long hair. The uniformity also applied to the texture and the coloring. The breeder needed to choose breeds that had long hair in order to obtain that in the offspring. Today, however, the length is unimportant when it comes to the Golden Retriever for families. These dogs spend less time outside versus dogs in the past. The Growth When a Golden Retriever is first born, he or she will have short hair. This hair will not complete growing in length until the dog is past the puppy stage. This will be approximately 1. It will actually start to feather in slowly around the time the Golden Retriever is 3 months old. Again, you will notice some, however, the thick and full coat will be completely in at around 1. The original hair that the dog is born with does not fall out or disappear. The lengthier hair will grow out as a top coat of hair. As this longer hair begins to come in, it pushes the shorter hair to the sides, which will then become the undercoat. The new coat of hair coming in will also be slightly darker also. The top coat is known as the Guard coat once it comes in fully. Shedding happens twice a year, Spring and Fall. The thick undercoat will mean more grooming is necessary to maintain a lower amount of shedding, however, it can not be avoided altogether. The other options that will help keep the shedding on the lower side is consistent grooming, a good quality food in the diet and avoiding a stressful environment. All in all, to summarize clearly, the Golden Retriever is only recognized by the American Kennel Association if it has long hair. There may be a one in a million shot that your Golden Retriever has short hair and that you were sold the dog as a purebred Golden Retriever. There are genetic tests now available that will give you and the Kennel Association the information needed. The hair length should never be a factor when it comes to loving a fur baby. Dogs are not just four legged creatures. They should be loved, cared for and treated like family. Their overall health should be more important than the length of the hair on a Golden Retriever. The Golden Retrievers flowing coat is just outer beauty. For breeders it is extremely important, for those who choose a purebred Golden Retriever, it is important to be able to see the long hair, however, it must be remembered that there is a tiny percentage that your purebred Golden Retriever will have short hair. This will not change the nature of the dog or the way the dog feels about you. More Dogs.

We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. As we all know too well, what we put in our belly has a huge impact on our health, vitality, length and quality of life. They have to strike a fine balance between getting enough nutrients to grow and avoiding an over-abundance that can lead to abnormal growth and disabling conditions. In this article you will learn precisely how to feed your puppy. What they can eat, what they should not, how many times you should feed them each day, basic information on home-made diets and the pros and cons of various commercial dog foods. The majority of Labrador owners feed their puppy kibble. Kibble is ground meal, shaped into dried biscuit-like pellets that are extremely convenient to buy, store and feed, providing everything a puppy needs in one easy to handle product. All the major brands carry a range of kibble and many are specifically formulated to suit the precise needs of puppies. For our recommendations of the best puppy food for labs, please read our article on: The Best Food for Labrador Puppies. Good breeders will supply you with all the information you need to feed your new puppy and you should follow this advice. Puppies almost always get upset tummies during a change of diet. The stress of moving to a new home is enough to deal with without them potentially having tummy upset on top. So try to avoid this. But expect your puppy to get diarrhea after such a sudden change. What Can Puppies Eat? With a bewildering choice of different puppy foods available, what to feed your puppy may not be the easiest decision to make. You Can Feed Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is ground up food, formed into pellets and dried for easy storage and convenience. It is a specially formulated, complete and balanced diet, containing everything a puppy needs to grow and be healthy. Many people believe kibble is the best way to feed a puppy, with it being so easy to buy, store and feed while containing every nutrient a puppy needs in the right proportions. Wet, Complete Puppy Foods Are An Option As the name suggests, complete wet dog food is complete and balanced, meaning nothing should be fed in combination. Everything needed is included in this one food. Complete wet foods come in individual pouches or tins with one pouch or tin containing one single serving. In the main these foods are low in nutrition, contain a high amount of cheap fillers, by-products and water and need mixing with a biscuit to give them some substance and to make them more complete. Because the food is such low quality, you have to feed a lot of it. And what goes in, must come out. This type of feeding was popular decades ago and I do remember my parents feeding our first dogs this way, but most people have moved on from this and are feeding their dogs in better ways now. Raw Food, BARF And Home-Made Diets Raw feeding is a diet that consists of mostly raw meat, edible bones and animal organs, though most practitioners also mix in small portions of fruit, veg and selected other foodstuffs. There are many people feel strongly that this is the best possible way to feed a dog. But I would caution most people that to feed this diet successfully, you need to do A LOT of research, gain a lot of knowledge and truly understand a dogs nutritional needs to make sure they get exactly what they need in the right amounts. Many people wonder if they can feed their puppy human foods, anything found in the fridge or larder. Furthermore, there are many human foods that are toxic to dogs that you should avoid at all costs. Too much of some nutrients can be bad in itself, but also prevent the absorption and use of other nutrients too. So supplementing a balanced diet is a bad thing to do. Can You Give Puppies Milk? Assuming you get your puppy at the recommended 8 weeks, they will have been fully weaned before you bring them home. Many puppies are intolerant of cows milk and drinking it leads to an upset tummy and diarrhea so you would do best to avoid giving your puppy any milk at all. One exception is for very young puppies under 6 weeks of age. When we have newborn puppies at our house we sometimes need to supplement and use Esbilac Milk Supplemen t. However, if you have a very young puppy that you think may need supplementing please first consult with your veterinarian. Are They Necessary? You will likely be feeding your puppy a commercially available complete and balanced dog food, in which case you certainly should not supplement their food. Supplementing this will mean too much of one or more things, making it unbalanced which can actually lead to harm. But an excess amount of calcium in the diet of a Lab puppy can lead to skeletal development problems. So adding a calcium supplement to an already complete diet can actually do more harm than good. There may also be times your vet advises you to do so. But if feeding raw, you should know more about nutrition than I do. This is a hard question to answer and sadly I cannot give you a definite quantity or weight to feed them each day. Puppies grow at different rates, some are more active than others and there can be large differences between metabolisms too. However… The biggest determining factor is how concentrated the nutrients and calories are in the brand of food you feed them. High quality foods are nutrient rich and give a puppy all they need from quite small amounts of food. But cheaper brands are full of low quality and nutritionally empty fillers that mean a puppy needs considerably more to get what they need. Start by feeding your puppy according to the guidelines on the label of the puppy food you buy for them. Then see how their body develops. Puppies should not be fat! But at the other end of the scale if they start to look and feel a little slim, up their portion sizes a little. The guidelines on the food you buy are just that…guidelines. You might also be interested in:. Made with real meat and no artificial colors or flavors how much should a lab eat? Allergies Labs can also have allergies. Some dogs may be allergic to wheat, macadamia nuts, etc. It can manifest as a runny nose, high volumes of shedding, rashes on the skin, and so on. Different dietary needs are crucial, especially if they display allergy symptoms. Avoid all types of human foods. You can give your lab puppy supplements You can get great quality adult dog food and puppy kibble from companies like Royal Canin Labrador Retriever, Blue Buffalo, Canidae Grain-Free, etc. Only adult food must be given to labrador retrievers who have crossed 1. Your puppy needs 4 small meals consisting of half a cup of food per meal till he is 2 months old. From 2 to 6 months, he needs 3 meals daily consisting of 1 cup of food per meal. From 6 months onwards , you can give your puppy 2 meals daily of 2 cups of dog food per meal. Is This A Problem? Yes, this is a major problem! Fat dogs are adorable but also extremely unhealthy. An adult labrador retriever should weigh at most pounds. Labs that are fatter than this stand at the risk of obesity, arthritis , and other lifelong diseases. Refrain from feeding your labrador too many dog treats. Onions and garlic: surprisingly, anything in the onion and garlic family is incredibly toxic to dogs. Meat with bones: if not chewed properly, sharp edges can rupture the throat, stomach lining, intestines, and other parts of the digestive tract. Other human foods and beverages to avoid giving your dog are alcohol, sugar, citric fruits, and anything with caffeine. Your labrador retriever should weigh between 55 to 70 pounds at full adulthood. Male labs are heavier than female labs, so they can fall on either side of the optimal weight spectrum. Some healthy treats for your labrador retriever are cut fruits and vegetables. Carrots, celery, cucumber, beetroot, apples, bananas, and berries strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, cranberries, etc. Dogs also love peanut butter! Veggies dipped in peanut butter also make a great snack for your dog. This is entirely up to you as dog owners. If you have the time and patience to cook meals for your dog, go for it. Store-bought food is easier and is filled with the right nutritional requirements for your lab puppy. On the other hand, with the right recipe, home-cooked food works, too. What Should I Do? A dog growling at you when you go near his food bowl is most commonly a trauma response or a way to protect his food. We often see this with rescues. House training your lab puppy is equally important to avoid food aggression. Labrador Retrievers get piddly after their meals. Dog owners must take out their lab puppy as frequently as they eat sometimes even more often to let their energy out and adult labradors less frequently. A lab puppy needs a ton of exercise. The amount of kibble you should feed your Labrador puppy will vary depending on their age, weight, and activity level. A good rule of thumb is to start with cups of kibble daily and adjust as needed. Best Dog Food For Lab Puppies: The best dog foods for lab puppies include those that are high in protein and low in fillers. The food you should feed a black lab puppy is the same as for any other Labrador puppy. A chocolate lab puppy should be fed the same food as for any other Labrador puppy. A 2-year-old chocolate lab should eat about cups of kibble daily. You should stop feeding puppy food to your Labrador at around months of age. At this point, their growth plates will have closed, and they will no longer need the extra nutrients found in puppy food. Labradors live for years. They start to slow down around 7 and may develop some health problems in their senior years. You should also increase their exercise level. Lab breeders feed their dogs high-quality dog food specifically formulated for large-breed puppies. A lab puppy should drink about 1 ounce of water per pound of body weight daily. This amount may increase as they get older and more active. A labrador needs at least 30 minutes of exercise per day. This can be a combination of walking, running, and playing. Golden labs live for years. Chocolate labs live for years same like labs of any color. Labradors lose their baby teeth between 3 and 6 months of age. You can start to transition your puppy to eating twice a day at around 6 months of age. By the time they are 1 year old, they should eat only once daily. You should stop feeding your large breed puppy food at around 18 months of age. Why Are Labs So Hungry? Labradors are a very active breed of dog, and they need a lot of calories to fuel their energy levels. They are also prone to gaining weight, so keep a close eye on their food intake About The Author Shradha Kabra Shradha is a seasoned writer at Labradorandyou. Her experience as a pet owner and dog enthusiast drives her to create meticulously researched and fact-checked content, offering valuable insights on Labrador training, grooming, and health. Each article reflects Shradha's passion and dedication, enriched by personal experiences with her beloved Labradors, Tom, and Kurt. Whether exploring breed-specific training techniques or providing product reviews, Shradha ensures Labrador owners receive the most accurate, up-to-date, and trustworthy information, aimed at enhancing their companions' health and happiness. We may receive commissions from purchases made via our links. In the beginning, the food needs for my Labrador Molly changed dramatically. I worried that I was feeding her too little. As she grew older, I became concerned that I was feeding her too much. So, how often should you feed a Labrador? You should feed an adult Labrador two meals per day. You should feed Labrador puppies three meals per day, unless otherwise stated on the food packaging. It is essential to adhere to food schedules that are consistent for the long-term health of your Lab. You should also be aware of how to handle situations when your dog doesn't want to eat on schedule or doesn't finish its meal. In this article Labrador Feeding Schedules Labrador adults, like most dogs, work well when fed on a schedule. Twice per day is the standard as it allows the dog to eat and digest properly. Puppies will require more frequent feedings, though, as they expend far more energy and smaller stomachs to hold their needed food. If you have a Labrador that gets a lot of exercise, you may want to consider feeding them less food more often, as they will likely feel hungry sooner. Age, size, and the food's nutritional content should determine the amount of food given. Whatever the frequency, it's crucial for your puppy or dog to have a regular feeding schedule. Disrupting this can cause digestive problems that are unpleasant for the dog and the owner. According to Veterinary Centers of America, dogs are creatures of habit that need the security and predictability of their feeding routine. In addition, keeping the feeding schedule consistent helps your pet cope with other changes that may occur within the household. Lastly, never free-feed a Labrador. While Labradors may not technically eat themselves to death , they can certainly make themselves sick if you let them decide how much and how often to eat. This is especially true while you're trying to establish a set routine for when your Lab will eat its meals. Feed Your Lab Less Food More Frequently If you find that your Labrador isn't interested in eating the entire meal in a single sitting, you can add more mealtime if it works for your schedule. To do this, you should take the whole day's meal portion and divide it evenly into the desired number of meals. If you add an extra mealtime, you should serve 1 cup at each of the three meals. In other words, adding another mealtime doesn't mean that you add more food intake to the day's total. Use Interactive Food Dispensers Another option is to use an interactive toy to dispense the food, which may help to keep your dog's attention for the entire mealtime. It is an excellent option to hide food or treats. This particular item is perfect for a Labrador because it will allow your pet to use its intelligence to solve a puzzle and problem-solve while being rewarded with the kibble hidden inside. Although it isn't a good option for every Lab's mealtime, it is an idea for a pup that loses interest in their food before finishing. How Much to Feed a Labrador Your Lab's portions at each meal should depend on a few different factors. First of all, you need to know if your pup is currently at a healthy weight. So the best thing to do in this case is to ask your veterinarian if your Lab is at a healthy weight. If your Lab is not at an ideal weight , you'll need to talk to your vet and amend the feeding plan. You may also consider a specialized food designed to help your dog reach the appropriate weight. Your Labrador's activity level will also impact how much he needs to eat each day. It's always a good idea to consult the feeding guide on your dog food and your veterinarian's advice to make an informed decision. Labrador Feeding Schedule Examples To give you an idea of a standard feeding schedule and meal plan, here is a chart based on the feeding recommendation from Royal Canin's Labrador Retriever dry puppy food : Adult Target Weight:. Naturally, Labrador puppies would require more feeding times. Hence, you should only set a few hours interval between meals. As for adult Labs, optimal feeding times would be one in the morning, afternoon, and night. Almost identical to human eating hours. Along with implementing a time frame for mealtime, owners must be open to modifying combinations of puppy food throughout the first two years of the pup. Abrupt growth spurts may bring changes in their eating habits. Once your dog reaches one year old, its dog food is enough to sustain its energy for longer. Always ensure to follow the correct feeding schedule when feeding kibble or other types of dog food to ensure nutritional requirements are met. Regardless if you have chocolate , red fox , or Dudley Labrador , make it a priority to visit a pet nutritionist to obtain an accurate feeding time and quantity specifically designed for your pooch. They help in hunting, farming, and even therapy. As such, they require an energy-loaded diet and dog foods that are rich in protein and carbohydrates to keep up with their activities. Since they belong to the large breed classification, they are also prone to common health risks such as arthritis and other joint diseases. To prevent this, scour the local pet store with dog food that contains omega fatty acids, B vitamins, beta-carotene , and amino acids. These nutrients are essential to obtain, whether from a raw food diet, home-prepared meals, or commercial dog food. Here are some of the best dog foods we recommend for your Labrador Retriever: Wet Food: Like kibble, commercially available wet dog food is common and already a complete and balanced diet for your Labrador puppy or adult dog. Its smooth texture is well-loved by purebreds and mixed breeds alike. Eating wet food that contains Docosahexaenoic acid DHA , glucosamine, and Eicosapentaenoic acid EPA helps support the condition of their joints and heart. Dry Food: When on the hunt for the most suitable dry dog food, always look for grain-free and made from whole food sources so it can easily be digested. Also, check the food labels and ensure that it has a perfect balance of carbohydrates and fats. Highly fortified and breed-specific kibble is also recommended. Homemade Food: Considering how much your adult dog or Lab puppy eats, a healthy diet made from scratch can be a great alternative to avoid obesity. Just mix everything together with a little water to incorporate them better. Furthermore, this diet opts for low sodium content. Owners should include fish and flaxseed oil, carrots, eggs, liver, and beans into the raw puppy food diet. Since Labrador Retrievers are energetic and active dogs, it is best to give them a moderate to high-fat diet. As long as they are able to exercise daily, they can easily work it off and avoid being overweight. However, if they are more on the lax side, adjust their food intake from low to moderate calories. If they cannot burn off the calories, enroll them in a low-fat or low-protein diet instead. Excessive carbs can increase their blood sugar and may put your dogs at risk for diabetes. It may take extra time and effort, but the investment will definitely pay off. Once you learn the appropriate feeding pattern, then having a healthy dog with strong joints and a better digestive and immune system is easily attainable. That includes sharing our belongings, space, and most especially, our food. However, the American Kennel Club reminds owners to be aware of what human food is safe for dogs. In this section, you will learn which foods are okay for consumption and which food can harm our Labrador Retrievers. Physically, it can block their esophagus if not chewed properly. Moreover, some may also contain salt that can be fatal to their heart. Chocolate: Chocolate in any other form should not be given to dogs. Chocolate has toxic substances called methylxanthines that put a stop to their metabolic process. It can still be toxic even in the smallest amount as it may cause diarrhea or vomiting. Garlic and Allium Plants: Alliums such as garlic, chives, leeks, and onions are not good for dog consumption. Although regularly seen across social media, feeding your pooch ice cream is not recommended. It contains loads of sugar, and some dogs may be lactose intolerant as well. As an alternative, owners can always freeze berries and apples as a regular icy treat. On the contrary, here are some of the most friendly human foods for all dogs, including Labrador Retrievers: Milk: Milk is a great supplement of other nutrients for dogs. Just be mindful that your dog is not lactose intolerant. It should only be given in small quantities as a treat. Popcorn: On a movie night, dogs can also munch on popcorn. However, ensure that it is unsalted, unflavored, and air-popped. In moderation, it is a good source of thiamine and riboflavin for eyesight. Remove any unpopped kernels to avoid choking. Seafood: In addition, seafood such as salmon and shrimp contain good fats and are high in antioxidants. Seafood boosts their immune system and brain health. Be sure to thoroughly cook salmon, fish, and shrimp all the way through to avoid parasites. Eggs: Eggs are also safe for dogs so long as they are also cooked well. Cheese: Cheese can also be given to dogs in moderate quantities. Go for low-fat cheese as a treat. Mozzarella and cottage cheese are some that can be fully enjoyed by dogs without the fat guilt. A small amount of prohibited food is not worth an emergency trip to a vet. Throughout their life stages, a dog will not just undergo one food switch. Age, health, and other factors can fuel a change in their diet. As stated earlier, an abrupt change in their food will only cause an upset stomach and indigestion. There are a couple of reasons to switch food. Add the new food into each meal gradually and reduce the portion of their current food. This method can also be followed when changing from dry kibble to raw feeding and vice versa. Some reasons for change can be prompted by age. Different life stages will require different nutritional requirements for your dog. Other reasons may be caused by allergies, brand availability, and weight management. It is still best to consult your trusted vet about changing their overall food regimen. They just enjoy feeding their pooch with tons of food and love seeing them get fat. However, that is not considered proper care for them. Experienced dog breeders know precisely what an overweight dog looks like and how to feed them properly. Labradors are known for their love of food. They are incapable of switching off their hunger signals even after eating. As a result, Labs have a higher number of overweight dogs in the United States. Like with other dogs, overfeeding a dog can lead to obesity. Thankfully, there are ways to address this and protect the health of our pooch in the long run. An eye-opening first step is to have a handy Labrador food guide. Having this will help you gauge the correct amount of food your dog needs depending on its age and other factors as well. Log what they eat and how much they eat during each meal. Calculating their calorie intake is also helpful for medical purposes and when switching food. Furthermore, avoid feeding overweight dogs table scraps. Many owners are guilty of this habit. Much like table scraps, it is also best to limit dog treats. Entice dogs with treats only on special occasions and during training. These are just some of the simple things you can do to control an overweight pooch. When it comes to other methods, it is always advisable to speak with your vet. Dogs lose their appetite due to some reasons. Do Labrador Retrievers Eat a lot? Yes, Labrador Retrievers are a food-motivated breed. This is why owners need to control their food intake. Can Labrador Retrievers Eat Bones? Bones are a good source of minerals, so they can be good for Labrador Retrievers. However, it may come with serious physical trade-offs. Give only large, raw bones and supervise them from time to time. Dispose of the bone after 3 to 4 days. Can Labrador Retrievers Be Vegetarians? Yes, Labrador Retrievers can thrive with a proper vegetable diet in place. In fact, soy and other whole grains are perfect substitutes for meat for protein. However, a vegetarian diet is something that needs professional input from vets. Final Thoughts Labs are the most popular dog breed in the United States. Thus, there are a lot of available materials on how to take care of and feed this easy-going pooch properly. For starters, it is highly recommended to have a Labrador feeding schedule to guide you with the amount and frequency of feeding. Although Labrador food is accessible for purchase anywhere, you can also introduce them in a raw diet or homemade meals. Regardless of what type of food you choose to give, you need to ensure to feed your dog a complete diet that supports their growth and overall health. As an owner, it is a big responsibility to provide them with only the best, so these high-spirited companions can have a happy and longer life. Will you follow this Labrador food guide? What are your feeding methods with your pooch? Share and comment your thoughts below! My passion for animals started at a very young age as I grow up on a farm with several horses, cows, cats, chickens, and dogs on our property. Leave a Comment. How often and what time to feed I will show you the best puppy foods, whether dry, wet, or raw, and look at food safety, together with schedules, quantities and even a handy puppy diet chart. Best Puppy Food for Labs The best Labrador puppy food provides a diet that is nutritious, healthy, and tasty. So, what is the best puppy food for your Lab? Puppy kibble or dried food is the most popular option. Kibble is complete and can give a perfectly balanced diet. Puppy kibble and tinned dog meat combined is another common choice among puppy parents. Feeding your Labrador puppy on home cooked food or on a totally raw diet is also possible. Raw puppy food is growing in popularity, and there are pros and cons to raw feeding your puppy. People often feel very strongly that one way of feeding is better than another, and you can always find evidence to support your view. Dog breeders, veterinarians and even nutritionists have their own strong views. The dire consequences they list for not listening to them can have puppy owners very worried. The truth is that there is no good quality evidence showing that kibble is better for the long term health of your dog, or that raw feeding is better. There are risks and benefits to both, and the main thing is to ensure that your dog has good quality food to eat. Puppy kibble suits some better, and raw puppy food is better for others. Puppy Kibble for your Labrador Puppy food made into pellets is called kibble. An airtight plastic container or tin will do the job, although you should make sure it is food grade quality. Puppy kibble is the best way of feeding your Labrador according to most breeders and your veterinarian is most likely to support this method of feeding. Good puppy kibble will contain every nutrient your Labrador puppy needs in order to grow and remain healthy. The kibble pieces will be tasty, good for keeping teeth healthy, and free from additives that can provoke allergies or stomach problems. Labrador puppy kibble only needs to be fed next to water. Puppy kibble from a reputable manufacturer is intended to be a complete and balanced food. But some owners like to mix in canned dog food or even scraps of raw food with kibble. Your puppy is likely to get an upset stomach or to not have the right balance of nutrition when fed this way. Whether you decide to feed only with kibble or you want to mix it up, pick a good dried food manufacturer and stick with them. Feeding your Labrador puppy raw food has its benefits and drawbacks. One of the downsides is that there is a lot to learn. Here is a link to the articles you need to help you decide whether or not raw feeding is for you: Although I like the raw diet for my dogs, most puppies fed kibble go on to have long and healthy lives. Whatever puppy food you choose, the most important thing is portion control. How Much to Feed your Labrador Puppy? People often tell me how much their puppy weighs, and ask how much puppy food they should give him. Your Labrador is particularly at risk if they grow too quickly. The following diet chart is for kibble fed puppies and does not apply to raw fed pups. It gives you an idea of how much to feed your Labrador puppy Lab Puppy Feeding Chart The Lab puppy feeding chart below is only a very rough guide. The quantity of food you need for your puppy will vary depending on your puppy and on the brand of food you are feeding him. Labrador puppy food must be aimed at medium to large breed dogs. Check the pack carefully and look at the dietary charts. Ideally, you want the optimal protein content and the lowest amount of additives. Part of this always comes down to the cost. The healthiest puppy food is usually the most expensive and may not be affordable for some families. The Cost Of Puppy Food Some puppy food brands are more concentrated than and contain a higher proportion of proteins, essential oils, and other nutrients. The absence of these fillers means that you can often feed lower quantities of more costly food, making them less expensive than they first seem. You might also find that cheaper brands make your puppy poop more due to those extra fillers going straight through him. While some brands are beyond the budget of many families, it is usually good to buy a premium brand. High Quality Brands of Puppy Food Some brands of puppy food have developed a reputation for producing a high quality product and have many devoted supporters, including breeders that have fed them to generations of puppies.

O'Leary September 02, "It's a dog," said I. I have another set of vices when I'm well, but those are the principal ones at present. Peter H. I have taken my own look at the bull pup question and I, too, will look at the Literal and Metaphorical schools but I will begin at a school that Wood did not look at: the Doylean. Or the novel Beyond the City : "Finally, when the cabman, all top-heavy and bristling, had staggered off up the garden path, there emerged in a very leisurely way from the cab a big, powerfully built young man, with a bull pup under one arm and a pink sporting paper in his hand. She came to the door with them, and as they glanced back they saw her still standing there with the yellow bull pup cuddled up under one forearm, and the thin blue reek of her cigarette ascending from her lips. The same can be said for references to bulldogs and bull terriers, they were either actual canines, similes or metaphors: "There is Buller, the famous Cambridge quarter, only ten stone in weight, but as lithe and slippery as an eel; and Jackson, the other quarter, is just such another — hard to tackle himself, but as tenacious as a bulldog in holding an adversary. We cannot see if there are further passages or mentions of the bull pup that have been excised, either by author or publisher. This careless attitude towards the stories came about because Conan Doyle regarded them as little more than light fiction, good little money-earners. It appears in A Study in Scarlet but is never mentioned again…. The truth of the matter is that Conan Doyle simply forgot the creature, but this has not prevented bizarre interpretations as to the fate of the temporary canine. Objection: the first firearm called by this name was not manufactured until .New Official Gun Book, ed. Charles R. Jacobs, c. Barzun commented that the interpretation was supplied probably in the s by a retired English army Captain, Humphry Fry, an admirer of Sherlock Holmes who was an English master at St. Bull pup as a firearm In the world of firearms there is a type of weapon called a bullpup—one word as opposed to two words. It is a weapon, originally referring to a long gun, having its action the mechanism that loads, locks, fires, extracts and ejects the ammunition behind the trigger, creating a shorter weapon compared to rifles with the same size gun barrel. The first such weapon was the British-made Thorneycroft carbine no relation to Dr. Thorneycroft Huxtable, M. The term bullpup for this type of weapon did not come into general use until the s. Thus, while Watson could have come back from Afghanistan with a rifle, it could not have been a bullpup nor would it have been called by that name. A Webley No. It was a weapon that filled a need. Many of the European Webley copies came from Belgium and their overall finish and quality was noticeably inferior to the genuine British-made variations. The name Bulldog became a powerful marketing tool to denote any big-bore, short-barreled revolver. The Literalist School Between attending Netley, shipping to India, being attached to the Berkshires at Kandahar, wounded in the battle of Maiwand, convalescing from a wound and enteric fever, shipping back to England, and spending a comfortless, meaningless existence in London, the question arises when did Watson acquire, or could afford, a bull pup? In , when the regiment was at Kandahar, Captain John Quarry…acquired a newly born bull terrier and he called it Billy. Billy was given to Sergeant William Guntrip, who Quarry held in high esteem. Guntrip was later killed at Maiwand and Billy went back to live with Quarry. Master and dog were devoted to each other and could not be separated, not even on the battlefield. It is unknown if Corporal Kelly was present at the last stand preceding this event and escaped before the last eleven gallantly remained so their colleagues could make good their escape, leaving or being separated from Bobbie in the chaos. Corporal Kelly is recorded in the medal roll as being wounded in hospital at Kandahar on 1 September and therefore can be reasonably assumed to have been wounded at Maiwand and was recovering from his wounds. So, was Bobbie at the final stand or not? There is no evidence to support this either way; if he was then Bobbie must have been the only British witness of the famous stand. He was wounded and managed to catch up with the retiring column making their way towards Kandahar and reunited with his master. The story states that his master was wounded; again there is no evidence to support this unless one takes the entry in the medal roll to mean that Corporal Kelly was wounded at Maiwand and was in hospital because of the wound. Troopship Malabar docking at Portsmouth in February .The regiment was stationed at Parkhurst on the Isle of Wight. On 17 August the men of the regiment who had been awarded the Distinguished Conduct Medal were presented to Queen Victoria and Bobbie went along to have an audience with the Queen at Osborne House. Bobbie was not, as sometimes stated, awarded a medal by the Queen as the Afghan metal was not presented to the 66th until and by then the little white dog was deceased. However, in Bobbie was accidently run over by a hansom cab that was carrying a wedding party in Gosport whilst accompanying the 66th on a route march. It was reported that a soldier of the regiment tried to club the cab driver with his rifle butt, but was stopped by the commanding officer who happened to be present. As Wood points out: "Could he [Watson] have kept a pet dog in a private hotel in the Strand? Luxury hotels cater to the whims and fancies of the wealthy, and to this day can provide any service the guests desire — and are able to pay for…. But one could well imagine a patriotic private hotel manager welcoming two veterans of the fatal battle of Maiwand, one two-legged and the other four-legged. Or if it was the pet of his faithful orderly Murray who had so recently saved his life? Or his old friend, Colonel Hayter, who had come under Watson care in Afghanistan? Or in fact any of the dog-owning men of the regiment? Watson then would have temporary keep of the bull pup until sometime after February 18, when the Malabar docked in Portsmouth. The pup may even have been retrieved by its owner before the start of A Study in Scarlet. It could be argued he was too weak to take care of a pup, although if the was strong enough for a sea voyage, he may have been up to the task of caring for a dog. True, it is surmise. It contains 3 songs from …Is a Real Boy and 2 additional b-sides that were left off the album. But could the real honors belong to an inexpensive, yet powerful pocket revolver that is only now beginning to be appreciated by historians and collectors? In this long-awaited new collector s guide, noted author George Layman tells us the true story behind these diminutive, yet devastating, weapons. Far from being uninteresting and identical, these pistols exist today in almost limitless variety. Learn how to identify rarities and valuable variations, including prices that should be expected for each type. Also, learn which models were carried most in the West by riverboat gamblers, soiled doves and gold miners. Even Billy the Kid might have packed one! So while the gun may have British in its name, the story is all American — and one that has remained untold until now. President James Garfield was assassinated in by Charles Guiteau using one of these revolvers. I had completely forgotten about this game until he came home with a shiner. Share this:. Indeed, packs of feral dogs seem to have been a real problem in Paris and its environs, and for some reason bicycles in particular excited their chase reflex. This was not as inhumane as it sounded; loads of Cayenne Pepper, lead dust, and wax, wood or cork bullets bullets were available. The cartridge was comparable in power to. Despite the much longer case of the Velo-Dog the power of these two rounds was quite comparable when fired from a short-barrel revolver. The cartridge was referred to both as 5. If buyers of these guns had been limited to cyclists these little revolvers would have quickly faded into obscurity, but given the high levels of urban crime in European cities around the turn of the century they had a much broader appeal. The Velo-Dog seems to have slotted neatly between these two; easier to conceal than the. Like the French guns they were all double-action revolvers, and initially were hammerless, though later guns with exposed hammers were made. Belgian and Spanish guns also frequently had a manual safety that prevented the trigger from moving. These guns were so small that even persons with small hands found them awkward, and they were extremely difficult to shoot with any degree of accuracy even at very short ranges. Belgian Velo-Dog revolvers were, for the most part, a fusion of the hammerless double-action-only French designs and the Bulldog-style revolvers they had been producing for many years. Mainly they retained the loading and unloading mechanism that consisted of a hollow cylinder pin with an ejector-rod running down the center of it and a loading-gate on the right side of the frame. The ejector pin would be drawn forward, then pivoted to the side to allow empty cases to be pushed out when the loading gate was opened. Bullets would then be loaded one at a time as the cylinder was rotated. There were other styles including top-break revolvers with auto-ejectors, but most of them operated like a Bulldog revolver. Top-break auto-ejecting Velo-Dog made in Belgium. Belgian revolver with a swing-out cylinder. When the loading gate was opened the cylinder would swing out to the right, and all six shells could be ejected at once. The the cylinder could be closed and fresh cartridges could be loaded one at a time. Of course there was nothing to prevent loading all six before closing the cylinder. Busso or hump-back style Velo-Dog. Velo-Dog revolvers came in all levels of finish, from sometimes crude offerings from Eibar to fancy nickle-plated and engraved examples such as this one. Common grips were hard rubber, but silver, wood, antler, mother-of-pearl and ivory were also used. Velo-Dog revolver by Jaques Mussen-Lallamand… …probably. These small revolvers were made in such numbers and by so many makers that if a gun is unmarked as many were we must rely on features and fine details to identify the maker. After careful examination I am reasonably sure this one was made by Mussen-Lalleman between , and the Belgian proof-marks on the barrel, frame and cylinder support this. My revolver, with an American Quarter-dollar coin for size comparison. The revolver is, as one would expect, quite petite. Unloaded it weighs a mere 7. The barrel and cylinder still retain some of their original bluing, and the frame is color-case hardened, though little of the color remains. This picture shows the safety lever on the back of the flame. Up is safe, down is fire. The gun locks up properly, and everything works as it should. The trigger pull is short and smooth but very stiff. The front sight is pretty decent, but the shallow notch of the rear sight is not particularly useful. The method for unloading: the ejector pin is withdrawn from the center of the cylinder pin and rotated to the right, then slid into the front of the cylinder to eject the empty cartridge, then withdrawn and the cylinder rotated to the next chamber to repeat this process until all five chambers have been emptied. To load the revolver you swing open the loading gate, then insert cartridges one at a time as you turn the cylinder. The cylinder can rotate freely unless the trigger is pulled. The folding trigger is quite long, and the pull is very stiff. Reloading dies are available, though they are rather more expensive than more common calibers. If you have some tools and are a handy sort you can make your own from. Using a hand-drill and file to cut down the base of a. After reducting the section just in front of the rim to about. After your reduced a section in front of the rim you can cut it off, leaving a rimmed section that will hold a small-pistol primer. This should be a force-fit. I find cutting the cartridge with a diamond-saw then carefully filing it to length works well. After the case is cut and trimmed to length carefully clean the interior with a small patch soaked in acetone to remove residue from the soldering flux. This is pretty labor-intensive, but you can produce small numbers this way without too much of a problem. I only wanted a few cartridges for test purpose for the moment, so I made seven cases this way. Home-made 5. Using a 29gr RNL bullet this yielded an overall length of 1. I used a charge of 1. For bullets I pulled the 29gr. RNL bullets from some. This proved sufficient given the almost non-existent recoil of this load. A string of five shots yielded an average velocity of fps. Another example of a Mussen-lallemand revolver in very fine condition, shown with the sort of purse-holster favored by women for carrying these little guns. There is, of course, no perceptible recoil and with these low-powered loads the report was quite mild. The lack of accuracy was not an issue with the gun, despite the aforementioned stiff trigger and miserable sights. The bottom loop of the trigger kept hitting my knuckle just as the gun fired, throwing off my aim. I attributed this to my large fingers, but later realized I was holding the gun wrong, and by shifting my grip upwards slightly it would not longer do that which will doubtless improve my accuracy. This is a fascinating little gun and an interesting look into history. Michael Tinker Pearce, 1 November If you like what you see here, please consider clicking the link above and supporting me on Patreon. This entry was posted in Uncategorized on.

Life Span Did You Know? The loving and gentle English Bulldog is one of the most well-liked companion dog breeds around the world. A breed of English origins, the Bulldog was first recognized as a non-sporting dog by the American Kennel Club in .The original use of this breed was Bull baiting, which was eventually outlawed with the establishment of the Cruelty to Animals Act of .This legislative act made the act of Bull and Bear baiting both illegal. The current role most suitable for the English Bulldog would be as a companion or family pet, given their sweet demeanor. The English Bulldog is relatively easy to train but definitely takes some work for more complicated commands. If you are looking for a breed to sit, stay, and play dead for treats, this is the breed for you. While they may not be the sharpest tool in the shed compared to some of the other highly intelligent breeds, they are easy going and apt to please their owner. Training this breed will be accomplished with less difficulty if you make the training reward based. Can you say Sweetheart? While this dog breed makes an above average watchdog because of their courage, this breed is a loving companion at heart. The Bulldog is excellent with kids when socialized and should be very agreeable with guests of the house. The English Bulldog breed as a whole is heralded as one of the most well liked companion breeds in the world. The Bulldog should do well with other family pets as long as properly introduced and socialized. They need to be socialized early and often to curb any negative feelings towards strange dogs. This breed is generally agreeable to most environments. Although they easily adapt to a noisy and chaotic household, they are not very tolerant of extreme weather, whether it be hot or cold. Although they are well liked and very popular, one must be aware of the potential health pitfalls with this breed. Some of the potential issues you can see with the English Bulldog is Cherry Eye, Entropion, or dysplasia. This breed also has a high risk for weight gain, so this should be monitored. An average Bulldog life span is between 8 and 12 years. You do not need to be a professional dog trainer to own an English Bulldog. They are good for most novice owners because they are passive by nature. The English Bulldog is an average shedder, so brushing him twice a week with a firm brush will be a good idea. Also, they can have a tendency to drool, so making sure you wipe their face off everyday can help ensure they do not suffer irritation on their faces and between their wrinkles. Because of the amount of wrinkles they have, it is recommended that you clean between the wrinkles fairly often to avoid irritations. The English Bulldog is a generally low energy breed. They do not require a lot of exercise, but when they do play, they play hard! Because they can be intense when they do have an energy burst, an owner must be aware of overexertion. They can be very playful, but do tend to tire out quickly. The English Bulldog is a short, stocky breed that should weigh between pounds. This dog breed generally lives for years. Presidents Calvin Coolidge and Warren G. Harding both owned English Bulldogs. Featured English Bulldog Article. How healthy are english bulldogs? We are very picky about what genetics and pedigree we allow in our program and all of the parents are health tested before breeding to ensure the best quality of life for our bulldog babies. In the 14 plus years we have been breeding we can honestly say the only problem we have came across is the common Cherry eyes. We have never experienced any of the horror stories you read about online as from the gate when we started we knew we wanted the best quality and health and that never came cheap!! Looking for a cheap bulldog will save you money on the purchase price but it can go over ten fold in vet bills from not buying from the correct breeder that knows his lines and does his part of proper health testing. Are French Bulldogs healthier than an English Bulldog? They can both have similar issues. The main difference is one is full of energy and the other is way more laid back. How long Have you been breeding and raising Bulldogs for? We have been breeding and raising Bulldogs since we started with our pet Scooby and the love and the bulldog fever just grew for us to be able to provide families with a bulldog of their own to love and enjoy life with. Can Bulldogs live an active lifestyle? If you are looking for a jogging partner the answer is NO!! They can go for a brisk walk for a few blocks late or early mornings as long as the temperatures are good for them. Every now and then you will find a crazy bulldog that just goes crazy and can go for a good walk no problem but that is very rare especially with their flat faces. What Vet should I take my bulldog too? You should look for a veterinarian that has experience with the bulldog breed and your local vet office might be just fine. When we see that we run with all honesty. When should I breed my female? You should breed your female when she has had her second heat cycle and is fully mature in the sense of her overall look. Breeding her at a young age can stun her growth and that is something that can not be reversed. Some breeders say that you should wait so the female is a good mother but that is irrelevant as they go through C sections and its highly unlikely the mom would want them right away. It takes a few days for them to really warm up to them. How do I stud out my bulldog? First and foremost you should produce your own male if you are a so called breeder and not just a dog pimp. After you have the male with the traits you envision is a great representative of the breed and what you strive to produce you must have some great offspring to show off what this stud is capable of doing with his genetic traits and dna. If your male is providing what you say others will contact you on their own but there is a few places you can offer your services like K9stud. I copied this from another board I frequent. I thought this might answer a few questions I see appearing on a regular basis. When one looks at an adult they should see a massive large head, massive chest, low heavy barreled body, short and low to the ground with nice wrinkles for the breed. As a breeders one of the most difficult things we run in to is the lack of understanding and knowledge by the general public as to how this breed develops over the course from a young puppy in to adulthood. When English Bulldog puppies are born many dont understand or realize that puppies are born without pigment, teeth and that their ear canals and eyes are closed. They usually weight anywhere from 8 pounces to one pound at birth and usually do not have wrinkles at this age. As they grow they start to get pigment in at about one week of age and this fills in gradually over the course of time, not all at once. Ear canals and eyes start to open as soon as two weeks but some a bit later. Eye color is almost always a grey blue at first. At about weeks old bulldog puppies start to get enough fat under their skin to have some wrinkles. Because they are so short in height and length they tend to look like fat little balls of puppies. They look cute as buttons and will continue to grow and look more fat and adorable until about the age of 9 weeks old. At about weeks of age they start to go into what we call their gangly phase. This is when the buyers and novice people to the breed start to complain and panic. English Bulldog puppies will start to get a leggy and gangly look about them. This intensifies at its peak at about weeks of age. Most buyers then wonder what they have bought. The puppy looks leggy, too tall, it will likely have a narrow head which can makes ears look big and floppy at this time. Puppies at this age will have also shed any wrinkles that once had. The new owners not understanding that this is a normal phase of development for the breed will start to create havoc for their breeder most of the time. This is the most common time frame of complaints, mostly from first time owners of the breed. One needs to understand that all species go through an awkward phase while they undergo great bodily transitions and growth. Including human children usually starting around the age of 7 and many times it goes in to the teen years before the ugly duckling becomes the swan. One also has to know how their bloodline develops. If you buy two English Bulldogs understand that each bloodline may go through a completely different magnitude of this phase than another bloodline. It is not until about 10 months of age that you will start to see the Swan appear from the Ugly Duckling phase of the gangly phase. Even still it is a growth process over months not all at once. Bulldogs don't truly complete the entire growth process until about years of age. At about months you will see the English Bulldog jaw shoot out and turn up, the head start to spread and grow wider, the brisket or bottom of the chest drop, the width of the bosom spread, the bone thickness will get thicker and last but not least the lovely wrinkles start to fill in again. This is when you start to see the end product appear. Call Morgan at for specific pup identification if you are leaning towards placing an early deposit. Please check back, we update our website daily! Please see our Deposit Page and our Transportation Page for information on getting your puppy. We love the English bulldog temperament, physique and expression, I just personally like it to be about lbs. We find the smaller sizes are more buoyant and playful and, though still very heat sensitive, are better able to cope with life in general. Downsizing an AKC breed takes time. Our girls all come from long lines of lb. We not trying for 20 pounders…our goal is to have healthy, beautiful babies that consistently mature at lbs. If you see a puppy that tugs on your heartstrings please call, or go to our deposit page for more information. In the last few years it has become clear that most people would prefer their puppy to be transported using our White Glove transport or Nanny Flight transport. Today, we have requests for our Puppies from all over the country. Because of this, the majority those requesting a Sugarplum Bulldog Puppy have also requested transport to their area of the country; those in Florida, for example, cannot easily make the drive to RI. As such, the majority of our Puppies have shifted to a transport model; this gets them closer to their new forever home. Because of this, we have come to the decision, that for the well being of our Puppies and for the benefit of our new Sugarplum Bulldog owners, we have developed a transport model for our pups using our Puppy-Mobile with direct transport to the pups new Forever Home! Our Mid-Western breeding home is co-owned by Sugarplum Bulldogs, and our partner. I realize that not having a chance to play with the Pups is disappointing to some, but please understand that our team are dedicated to the highest level of care for our little Pups. We truly feel that this new model is in the best interested of our Puppies and their new homes. Please feel free to ask me any questions….