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Offering: Dogs for sale, puppies for sale in United Kingdom, Warrington.View detailed.Additional classifieds via Oodle United Kingdom free classified ads for Dogs for sale, puppies for sale, Warrington, Dogs for sale, puppies for sale free ads Warrington, Dogs for sale, puppies for sale for sale Warrington, Dogs for sale, puppies for sale to buy in Warrington. This page is a listing of classified ads for Dogs for sale, puppies for sale category in Warrington. This section includes classifieds for sale and to buy in Warrington. If you posted an ad on this section before please use Edit my ads button to change or cancel your advertisement. You also can advertise your website in our Warrington websites directory. It is easy and fast to add your website in the directory. Find here ads for sale, to buy and rent in Warrington. Goods for sale in Warrington, vehicles for sale in Warrington, Warrington real estate for sale, Warrington property for sale, property for rent in Warrington, business ads in Warrington, Warrington business classifieds, services in Warrington, Warrington services ads, jobs in Warrington, pets for sale in Warrington, Warrington dating, Warrington cars for sale. How to buy pets online safely See our easy 6-point checklist to help keep animals and buyers like you safe. Both mum and dad have excellent temperaments and markings, great family pets used to kids, babies, adults, other dogs, animals and generally busy households. Both mum and dad come from premium Boxer lines, with many champions in the past generations. Mum, Franny, comes from Irish Boxer line low inbreeding coefficient, less prone to health problems due to low level of inherited genes , she is a dry mouth flashy brindle tailed bitch, KC registered and can be seen at any time. We are breeders of a premium, champion Boxer line, part of excellence breeders club, patronised by leading brand specialised in dog food and nutrition. I'm a Doctor, working as a molecular biology and genetics scientist so it's extremely important for me to make sure the puppies have the best possible genome and are less prone to inherited health problems than other litters. All pups will be fully vet checked, KC registered, will come flea treated, worm treated and microchipped, and will have their 1st injections done. They will come with a premium puppy pack containing a contract, one month free pet insurance, ownership and pedigree certificate, microchip no. Pups can be seen now and will be ready to go to their new homes on the 12th of December the earliest. More photos or videos available on request. Please call if you're interested or drop me a text and I will get back to you asap.

In Georgia, an individual named Altman was seeking to get a dog breed with a rugged build and watchful nature. However, this breeder, along with others, also wanted the doggo to be healthy. Though it is not too famous today, the breed was also recognized by the Continental Kennel Club in as a purebred one. They have a broad chest and a strong build, resting on short but straight legs. These doggos have a considerably broad head along with brown almond eyes that will have you swooning in a look. However, they love their dog-parents and run around you all day long. Altman Bulldogs are medium-sized, ranging between 15 to 21 inches in height. Therefore, the doggo has a relatively healthy life and lives for up to years. If you take good care of its feeding and activity levels, your Altman doggie can live even longer. Still, you must ensure that you thoroughly check all the facts related to health, background, and registration certificates. They love their human pack and will always watch your back, guarding the gate and alerting you about strangers. So much so that they may even get possessive about you. Due to their stubborn nature, Altman Bullies may not be very tolerant of other pets, especially dogs. The pooches may also end up chasing little animals, as they have a strong prey drive. However, if you train them to socialize from their puppy years, your doggos can get over these habits. That said, when it comes to children, the furballs love playing around with them. They enjoy the company of their tiny humans and protect them like adults. However, the same possessive nature may turn out to be the opposite with strangers. When it comes to separation anxiety, these canines do get depressed when left alone. Therefore, you must make sure to leave at least one member or fellow pet home while you are away. Apart from that, these energy-bundles love working out and are easy to train if you do so with authority. However, they do have considerable dietary and activity needs. Read on to know more about how you can care for your Altman Bulldog. Altman White English Bulldog Nutrition They have a bulky build and love to maintain it through physical activities, which is why they require high-protein food. You must feed your Altman doggo twice a day at regular timings for a healthy diet. Also, this will ensure that the canine does not fall prey to obesity that can cause multiple health issues. How to Groom an Altman White English Bulldog Though their coats do not require a lot of grooming, their wrinkly face surely does. Similar to any other bulldog, these pups have deep wrinkles that you need to wipe times a day. Doing this will prevent moisture and dirt from accumulating. Brush the doggo once a week, but you must bathe the canine every two months to eliminate their body odor. You must take the doggo for runs or a minute walk, twice a day. Apart from this, make sure to keep the intelligent canine busy with mental games and training like fetch. Caring for Altman White English Bulldog Altman Bulldogs have relatively long legs and high energy levels, which is why they do not love apartments. These doggos require big dwellings with a large, open lawn to stretch their legs around the day. Furthermore, this doggo is not difficult to care for. The canine will readily accompany you in all your hikes, swimming, and other similar activities. Plus, they can bear extreme heat and cold temperatures. So, the weather should not be a problem with an Altman Bulldog. Some of the hereditary problems include cataracts, allergies, jaw disposition, and heart valve defects. Apart from that, deafness is a severe ailment in most English Bulldogs. However, none of these issues are sure to be present in an Altman White English Bulldog. It entirely depends on the traits that the pup picks from its breed parents. Females: pounds. Height Males: inches. Females: inches. At the time, the English Bulldog was a far cry from what they looking for, with their many health issues and lowered quality of life. The closest they could get to their ideal dog were the old type bulldogs of the American South that had once lived in the area some years prior. Altman and his contemporaries set out to recreate the bulldogs that once dominated the Southeast United States. They crossed the English Bulldog to the White English Bulldog for generations until the dogs they produced were breeding true to the desired type. This resulted in the creation of the dog they had sought, one that was striking in appearance and physical strength, with far fewer health problems and greater tolerances than the English Bulldog. These dogs also possessed a lovely temperament, being gentle and loving with family and discerning of friends and foes. In , the Continental Kennel Club officially recognized Mr. While the Altman White English Bulldog is a lesser-known bulldog breed today, they are a family favorite among those who know and love them. Breed Characteristics Head: The skull is somewhat brachycephalic in type, medium to large in size, broad, and square. It should always be proportionately to the rest of the body, never so large as to hinder natural whelping. In profile, the head should never appear flat-faced. From the stop to the occiput, the head is high and broad with well-muscled temples and cheeks. From the front, the plane of the skull appears flat and not rounded. A median furrow starting at the stop and running toward the occiput may be visible. Extreme brachycephalic skull types lacking a muzzle or dogs with a completely flat facial profile are incorrect. Wrinkling on the head and face should not be excessive to allow for a neat and clean appearance. Eyes: Eyes are medium in size and may be somewhat round, open oval, open almond, or lemon-shaped, set wide apart and approximately level with the stop. The eyes exhibit a fair amount of skull above and between one another. The eyes should appear far from the ears in profile and when viewed from the front. Ears: Small to medium in size, set high on the skull, and well apart. The ears may be drop-shaped or rose. They are never long, overly large, or broken. The ears may be cropped short, but natural ears are preferred. Muzzle: Short, broad, deep, and full. The plane, or bridge of the muzzle, is straight. The upper and lower jaws are wide, have good bone substance, and appear strong and well-developed, never snipey or weak. There should be enough muzzle length for the nose to protrude and allow easy breathing and prevention of the soft palate from extending into the airways of the throat. The lower jaw is strongly developed and curved slightly upwards. The underjaw should never appear overly protrusive, and teeth and tongue must be completely concealed when the mouth is closed. Nose: The nose is well-pigmented, black, or self-colored, according to the coat. The nostrils are well-opened. Neck: Moderate length and powerfully muscled with a slight arch. The neck tapers smoothly from the deeper and broader body toward the head. A very slight dewlap may or may not be present. Chest: Deep and broad but never wider than deep. The brisket extends to the point of the elbows. Body: Compact, solid, and good substance. The body is never racy or refined. The width at the forequarters is approximately equal to the width at the hindquarters. Feet: Oval to round, compact with well-arched toes and tough pads. Tail: Set neither high nor low on the croup but as an elegant extension of the spine. It is thick at the base and tapering toward the tip. The tail may be left natural preferred or docked short. Natural tails are of a medium length, with the tip of the last vertebrae extending to the hock joints when held down. They may be straight, gently curved, or pump-handled. Docked tails are short and only a few vertebrae long. Movement: The Altman White English Bulldog is capable of smooth, effortless, efficient, and energetic movement in all climates and terrain. The characteristics of a healthy structure are evident. When moving away, the forelegs and rear pasterns should remain parallel to one another. When viewing movement from the front, the forelegs should remain parallel, with elbows and paws neither moving in nor out. From the rear, the back pads should be visible when the rear legs are extended. As speed increases, the forelimbs and hindlimbs will converge to the center line of gravity. From the side, the topline should remain firm and level. Good reach of movement in the front allows the forepaw to extend out in line with the nose. When extended, the width between the forefeet should be approximately equal to the width between the hindfeet when extended, indicating balance, good reach, and a good drive. Dogs that exhibit any sign of breathing or locomotive difficulty shall be disqualified from the show ring. Temperament: The Altman White English Bulldogs are loved by their people for their devotion and their strong attachment to their families. Just like the bulldogs of the Old South, they are protective watchdogs alerting to the slightest disturbance. They are also known to be less tolerant of other dogs, so strict socialization and early training are a requirement for the breed. They are intelligent and capable of learning many tricks and disciplines. They are also quite capable of many physically demanding tasks, such as agility and weight pulling. While friendly, devoted, and great with children, these dogs are known to be indifferent or aloof toward strangers. Any unprovoked aggressive or fearful behavior toward people is incorrect for this breed. The ideal body height-to-length ratio is .The body is substantial and powerfully muscled, with medium-heavy bone. However, the Altman should never be so substantial to appear heavy, cloddy, incapable of work, or lacking in stamina and agility, yet never so light as to appear racy or lacking in power. Males should appear masculine, being more substantial in size and mass, while females should appear more feminine and slightly less substantial. Neither should lack overall type. Male and female weights are always proportionate to height. The weight of males and females is always proportionate to height. Head General Appearance: The skull is somewhat brachycephalic in type, medium to large in size, broad, and square. Expression: Capable, dignified, intelligent, watchful, and alert. Stop: The stop is definite, preferably forming a degree angle between the topskull and muzzle. Skull: The ideal muzzle-to-skull ratio is , with the topskull being just longer than the muzzle. The ideal muzzle-to-skull axis is convergent. Lips or Flews: The lips or flews are thick, wide, and deep. They conceal the lower jaw without extending well below it. Cheeks: The cheeks are well-muscled and broad but never overly protrusive. Flat, smooth, or chiseled cheeks are incorrect. Dentition and Bite: Forty-two strong, clean, and white teeth. Missing or broken teeth due to routine work are not to be penalized. Body and Tail General Description: Compact, solid, and good substance. Topline: Level from slightly prominent withers to croup. The back is broad, strongly muscled, and straight, yet supple. The loin is taut, level, or slightly arched, yet supportive. The topline is never swayed or roached. Croup: Gently sloped. Underline: It is without tuck-up. The underline runs parallel to the topline. The underline is taut and firm, without any indication of sagging or excess weight. Ribs: Long, well-sprung, well-laid back, and oval-shaped, never barrel-chested or slab-sided. Forequarters and Hindquarters Forequarters: The forequarters are always balanced with the hindquarters and well-angulated with well-laid-back shoulder blades. Shoulder blades are approximately equal in length to the upper arm and forearm. Elbows: The elbows are close to the body. Forelegs: Frontal View: Straight, of good muscle and bone, and parallel to one another. A slight inclination inward is not a fault as long as they are straight. Side View: The forelimbs appear straight with strong pasterns. Pasterns: Never weak or broken. Hindquarters: The upper and lower thighs are equal in length, strong, sturdy, of good bone, and well-muscled. Rear View: When viewed from the rear, the rear pasterns are parallel to one another. Side View: Good angulation will allow the rear toes to align with the point of the rump or within one to two paw-lengths behind the point of the rump, with the rear pasterns remaining perpendicular to the ground and parallel to one another. Stifle Joint: Well-angulated with a good bend to well-let-down rear pasterns. Angulations: The angulation of the hindquarters is always in balance with the angulation of the forequarters. Coat Skin: Well-fitted, yet supple. The skin should never obstruct the outline of the dog. Coat Type: Short, smooth, close, coarse, gleaming, stiff to the touch, with or without slight feathering on the back of hindlegs. Coat Color or Pattern: All coat colors and patterns are equally permissible. Movement The Altman White English Bulldog is capable of smooth, effortless, efficient, and energetic movement in all climates and terrain. Temperament The Altman White English Bulldogs are loved by their people for their devotion and their strong attachment to their families. Faults All dogs should be in proper healthy condition, free from disease or defect. Any departure from this description is considered a fault. Unless altered, all male dogs should have two fully descended testicles. He was measured at lbs. Contact Us.

Our breeding program has earned the the highest level of accomplishments that a kennel in the United States can achieve. Nadelhaus breeds purebred German Shepherds year round and we also import both German Shepherd puppies and adults direct from Europe for our clients. Long-haired German Shepherds are technically called a long coat German Shepherd, while a short-haired German Shepherd is called a normal coat or stock coat German Shepherd. Dogs with either coat have the same physiological structure and both have double coats: an undercoat and a top coat. The only difference between the two is the top coat. The long haired German Shepherd will have a heavier top coat than the undercoat. The double coat of a German Shepherd is an important feature of the breed. The double coat weathers and insulates the dogs—it protects them from the cold in the winter and the heat in the summer. The length of the coat of a German Shepherd has no impact on its ability as a working dog. What does a long haired German Shepherd look like? The skeleton and structure of a long-haired German Shepherd will be the same as a short-haired German Shepherd. Both dogs will have an undercoat, but the difference is that the top coat of a long-haired German Shepherd will be longer. The long coat GSD has longer and silkier hair on the chest, back, face, tail, and on the backside of its legs. Short on the head, including the inside of the ears, on the front side of the legs, on the paws and toes, somewhat longer and more strongly covered in hair on the neck, almost forming a mane. On the back side of the legs the hair extends to the carpal joint or the hock and forms clear trousers on the back side of the haunches. Historically, German Shepherds originated in Germany and were native sheepdogs. He firmly believed that the standard of the German Shepherd breed should not include dogs with long hair. Throughout the s, long haired German Shepherds were considered unsuitable and unacceptable for breeding. It is important to note that long-haired German Shepherds are the result of natural genetic diversity and not a separate breed. Their long coats are an inherited trait that can occur when both parents carry the recessive long-hair gene. This gene manifests as a more luxurious and abundant coat, offering a striking contrast to the traditional short-haired German Shepherd appearance. The breeding of long-haired German Shepherds follows the same rigorous standards and principles as their short-haired counterparts. The focus remains on maintaining the breed's exceptional temperament, working abilities, and overall health. Over time, breeders recognized the value of long-haired German Shepherds and began selectively breeding them to maintain and enhance their unique characteristics. Through careful pairings and strategic breeding programs, the long-haired variety established itself as a distinct and cherished branch of the German Shepherd breed. How big do long-haired German Shepherds get? Long-haired German Shepherds are structurally the same as short-haired German Shepherds, therefore they can both grow to similar sizes. Males: inches tall, pounds Females: inches tall, pounds Since both German Shepherds are physiologically the same, they also have the same temperaments: loyal, intelligent, energetic, courageous and protective. German Shepherds are ranked 2 on the AKC Breed Popularity list and make for wonderful family companions and working dogs. How can I identify a long-haired German Shepherd puppy? In the photo below are two litter mates from a recent Nadelhaus litter. The puppy on the left is a long coat and the puppy on the right is a normal coat. The long coat has wispier hair on the chest, back, face, tail, and on the backside of its legs. Long-hair female German Shepherd next to short-hair male German Shepherd. Genetically in German Shepherds, the short hair gene is dominant and the long hair gene is recessive. This means if two short-haired German Shepherds are mated, but neither carries the recessive long hair gene, then no long haired puppies can be produced. However, if two short-haired German Shepherds are mated and both carry the recessive gene, then long-haired German Shepherd puppies can be produced. Long-haired German Shepherds are considered a less common variant of the breed, adding to their allure and exclusivity. While short-haired German Shepherds dominate the breed standard, enthusiasts of long-haired Shepherds appreciate their unique beauty and elegant appearance. Due to their rarity, finding a reputable breeder or rescue organization specializing in long-haired German Shepherds may require some research and patience. However, the joy of owning one of these beautiful dogs is well worth the effort for those who appreciate their longer coats and exceptional qualities. Do long-haired German Shepherds shed more than short-haired German Shepherds? No, this is a common misconception. Although they shed less than short haired German Shepherds, their coats still require regular maintenance. They will need regular brushing and grooming, especially if you enjoy hiking or outdoor activities with your GSD. While it is a rare occurrence for a long-haired GSD to not have an undercoat, most of them do have undercoats. And just like short-haired GSDs, their undercoats will shed more or less throughout the year depending on the season. Should I trim my long haired German Shepherd's coat? The decision to trim a long haired German Shepherd comes down to personal preference, but it is not a necessity. Trimming can help make for more manageable living around the house. If you choose to trim, you can trim around the backs of the ears, on the back of the legs both front and back and then thin the bushy tail. Shaving a German Shepherd on the other hand is never recommended. Their double coats help keep them warm in the winter and cool in the summer. What are long haired German Shepherds called? Regular brushing: Long-haired German Shepherds require regular brushing to prevent matting and tangles. Aim for at least a few brushing sessions per week to keep their coat in good condition. Finish your brushing session with a gentle dog brush to clean up loose hairs. Bathing and drying: It's important to bathe your long-haired German Shepherd as needed, using a dog-specific shampoo. Be sure to thoroughly rinse out all the shampoo to prevent any residue. After bathing, use a high-velocity dryer or a cool air dryer to dry their coat thoroughly, as moisture trapped in the fur can lead to skin issues. Professional grooming: Consider taking your long-haired German Shepherd to a professional groomer for occasional trimming and coat maintenance. A groomer can help keep the fur around sensitive areas, such as the paws and ears, tidy and reduce the chances of matting. Watch for seasonal shedding: Like all German Shepherds, long-haired ones will undergo shedding seasons. Be prepared for increased shedding during these times and brush your dog more frequently to remove loose hair. A de-shedding tool can be helpful in managing shedding and keeping their coat healthy. Remember, each dog is unique, and the specific care requirements may vary. Does Nadelhaus sell long haired German Shepherd puppies? Nadelhaus breeds German Shepherds puppies year round and while the majority of puppies we sell are short hair, we do have occasionally have long haired puppies. We breed all our German Shepherds in the black and red color. If you are looking for a long haired adult German Shepherd, we can also import long-haired German Shepherds direct from Europe. Contact us for more information. You can pay by bank card, money transfer, or cryptocurrency. Reprinting of information and photos of the site is prohibited! Manage Cookie Consent We use cookies. Not consenting, may adversely affect certain features and functions. Functional Functional Always active The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. Preferences Preferences The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. Statistics Statistics The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. Marketing Marketing The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes. Menu Menu Long-haired German Shepherd puppies Beautiful long haired german shepherds puppies available in our kennel, with highest genealogy, FCI pedigree and dysplasia-free parents. Video of our long haired german shepherd puppies Why a long-haired German Shepherd puppy? If agreed in advance, we can arrange home delivery of the puppy. After almost thirty years of breeding, I still linger for a long time to look at the newborn puppies, who, still blind and deaf, but admirably guided by instinct and smell, seek their source of life. The dog breed culture of the long-haired German Shepherd has become widely rooted in Italy as well and more and more people contact professional breeders to purchase a purebred puppy with all the papers in order. It is two generations since we have been devoting ourselves to the selection of the long-haired German Shepherd, both working and pet dogs. We are based in Alvignano, a small, unspoiled village in the upper Caserta area surrounded by green hills. Our day is dedicated to our dogs, with whom we spent most of the time: it requires sacrifices, and does not include holidays! It is unthinkable to be a breeder if you have not developed a great passion, the source of the energy and courage required to do this job. The Falcone farm is considered one of the best German shepherd farms in Italy. The long-haired German Shepherds Alsatian of Casa Falcone are the result of responsible choices by qualified breeders aiming at improving and maintaining the best quality standards of the breed. In addition to the essential preventive care, Casa Falcone pays particular attention to secondary details as well, which are vital to obtain strong, healthy and even-tempered puppies. Our puppies are born in comfortable air-conditioned and video-monitored delivery rooms to keep an ideal constant temperature and to regularly watch over the mother and the puppies. The weaning of long-haired German Shepherd puppies is a practice that needs to meet deadlines and a deep sensitivity to understand how to treat the puppies and their mother. The puppy will be delivered to a new family only after the lactation phase, the program of deworming and the vaccination treatment are over. In the first weeks of life, the puppies are continually stimulated to get used to the presence of humans and other dogs, to make integration into the new family easier. In addition, a puppy guide will be given to the owner containing lots of advice and a transfer contract as well. The sale of a German Shepherd puppy is not the last phase of our work: after the puppies are delivered to the new family, the breeder-owner relationship will continue through counselling service, practical advice and meetings on the territory. In the philosophy of Casa Falcone German Shepherd Farm , the German Shepherd puppy who finds a new family does not go away, but contributes to the expansion of the large family of Casa Falcone through regular gathering and meetings. In this context, customers will meet professionals such as veterinaries, instructors, trainers and experts in the field but new owners as well, with whom they will be able to share their experiences, contribute to the socialization of the puppies and, why not, broaden the circle of friends. At Casa Falcone farm magnificent German Shepherd puppies with excellent pedigree are waiting for you. They have an even-tempered character thanks to selected specimens and are certified to be exempt from the main hereditary diseases of the breed hip and elbow dysplasia. If you are looking for a German Shepherd puppy, you can buy it at Casa Falcone. You can appreciate the beauty of our specimens by visiting the German Shepherd puppy photo page. We are one of the few farms in Italy to breed the long-haired German Shepherd Alsatian. As our customers know well, we put all our efforts into our work, regarding as an absolute priority the morphology, character and health of each of our puppies.

F1 Goldendoodle What is an English Goldendoodle? They are very loving and friendly dogs that enjoy spending time with their owners. They are highly intelligent, very easy to train, and thrive on social interaction. As a result, English Goldendoodles make an excellent service or therapy dog. The English Goldendoodle is also considered a low to non-shedding breed, which makes them ideal for owners with allergies. English Goldendoodles come in a variety of colors. Due to the English Golden retriever's light coloring, the signature English cream Goldendoodle and white Goldendoodle tends to be the most common. However, English Goldendoodles can also come in tan, red, apricot, chocolate or even black depending on the color of the Poodle. Most of our Goldendoodle puppies are of the white, cream, tan, or apricot variety. We encourage you to learn more about English Goldendoodles at the link below. First and foremost, the health and happiness of our dams and their puppies is our top priority. Our English Golden Retrievers are our pets first, and live and sleep inside the comforts of our home. We are not a large kennel facility or puppy mill and are strong advocates against such practices. Our dogs give birth in in comfortable, temperature controlled conditions in our home. Each of our parents pass a full vet administered health exam prior to breeding. We interact with each of the Goldendoodle puppies daily. We work on socializing them through human touch, and introduce them to crate training prior to going home with you. All Goldendoodle puppies are given a full vet administered health exam prior to going home. The Teddy Bear English Goldendoodle, of course! Life Through The Lens Check out our photo and video galleries as well. We have a professional in-house media team that loves our Goldendoodles, and it shows in their great work. They endear themselves to everyone they meet with their friendly, intelligent, and accepting nature. They are usually highly affectionate, gentle, and patient. Teddy Bear English Goldendoodles make excellent family companions. They have a playful side and can be mischievous if the mood hits. They are loyal, and with proper reward-based training, can be highly obedient. Improper training, however, such as harsh corrections, can damage their confidence. Allergy-Friendly Teddy Bear English Goldendoodles that are a first-generation cross exhibit hybrid vigor, they are generally healthier than their purebred parents. This is a phenomenon in animal breeding, referring to the fact that the first cross between two unrelated purebred lines is healthier and grows better than either parent line. The other generations still exhibit hybrid vigor, but not as strong as the first generation. As a hybrid cross, they grow healthier and live longer than either parent line. The only genetic diseases they can be prone to would be those shared by both the English Golden Retriever and the Standard Poodle. No major concerns. Minor Concerns. Their life expectancy years. We absolutely love our sweet little Teddy Bear English Goldendoodles. We are confident that you will love them just as much as we do. They are social dogs, friendly towards children, other dogs and pets, and comfortable around strangers. Their intelligence, eagerness to please, and love of learning make them very easy to train. Guaranteed Health Our parent dogs are from some of the best bloodlines, with many champions in their history. We do health screenings on our parents prior to breeding to ensure that we are producing the healthiest puppies. Our puppies have current medical records and come with a state-certified Health Certificate. All puppies are well on their way to being crate trained when they go home and have all been well socialized with children. All puppies are child-tested and mother-approved. Hybrid Vigor Teddy Bear English Goldendoodles that are a first-generation cross exhibit hybrid vigor, they are generally healthier than their purebred parents. The only genetic diseases they can be prone to would be those shared by both the Golden Retriever and the Standard Poodle. No Major Concerns. Ready to Adopt? Situated on beautiful acreage, our home is located about 35 miles north of Springfield, Missouri. Breeders that aren't serious come and go but our passion for raising quality puppies with a distinctive look and excellent temperaments has been a dedicated journey since .A clear vision and outline of socialization and a team of experienced trainers develop puppies that will be a joy to your home, not to mention the star of your little one's obedience classes! We have had the privilege of raising and keeping back our best puppies from champion sired parents since to develop healthy puppies with correct coat, body type, excellent temperaments, specialty colors and adorable looks that you can enjoy and be proud of. Our team knows that you have probably done a lot of research and may still have questions. Feel free to reach out to us to talk about what you are looking for in your new family member. We look forward to meeting you and helping you choose a quality puppy that will bring joy to your home for many years to come! Some differences for the English Golden Retriever include a shorter and more muscular body, lower energy, lower cancer rate, broader muzzle, shorter coat, and coats are lighter in color ranging from cream to gold. We will produce solids, parti-factor or abstract, as well as Parti English Goldendoodle Puppies! Our Parti English Goldendoodle Puppies will range from red and white, apricot and white, chocolate brown and white, black and white, and sable parti puppies. All Dams and Sires have obtained extensive health clearances prior to being bred. This combination produces an F1 Goldendoodle. These dogs will have a higher success rate for non-shedding. Coats are loose wavy to curly and mostly non-shedding. The F1 Generation sheds light to minimally, while the F1B Generation typically is minimal to non-shedding. Weight: typically 25 lbs. Weight: typically lbs. Medium: Height: over 17 but under 21 inches 43cm to 52cm at wither. Standard: Height: over 21 inches 53cm to 63cm at wither. Weight: typically 51 or more lbs. We do not currently breed mini or petite sizing. The coat of a Goldendoodle can vary from straight, loose wavy or curly. An F1 Goldendoodle will have a loose wavy coat, while an F1B Goldendoodle litter has both curly and loose wavy coats within the litter. Goldendoodles can be black, red, white, apricot, brown, cream, Cafe Au Lait, silver beige, silver or blue, and may be a combination of these colors. Goldendoodles carry the color patterns brindle, sable, ticking, abstract, tuxedo, parti, and phantom. They have an excellent write-up explaining Colors and Coats. This website in general is a great resource to learn all about the Goldendoodle! Daily walks are a must if you don't have a safely enclosed area for them to run freely. They love games and many are attracted to water and love to swim. This breed does wonderfully with all, including children and makes for an overall wonderful companion dog, many with therapy potential! As with any dog, socialization and training should start while the dog is still a puppy and continue throughout its life. Look for a puppy kindergarten class locally or join the AKC S. Puppy Program , training based on positive techniques. You do not have to be an AKC purebred puppy to participate in their S. Puppy Program. Find a class here. This is a great place to start socializing and training. A well-socialized, well-trained Goldendoodle makes a wonderful family companion. Early socialization and training establishes those lifetime bonds between the family and puppy as these programs teach you how to communicate with your new puppy and get started on the right foot. Connect with us! Welcome to Moss Creek Goldendoodles! We are one of the first to ever breed English Goldendoodles. We love what we do and have lots of experience to share. We are committed to the research, development and improvement of the English Goldendoodle dog breed. We specialize and strive to produce healthy Companion, Therapy and Service Dogs with wonderful temperaments. We breed well-adjusted, properly-socialized, sweet, loving Goldendoodle puppies with low to non-shedding, allergy-friendly coats. We breed Goldendoodles in small, medium and large standard sizes. We are an original member of the Goldendoodles. Here at Moss Creek Goldendoodles, we have very carefully selected our Puppy Parents from the highest quality champion lines with years of good health history behind them. Our puppy parents are the best of the best. Moss Creek Goldendoodle puppy parents are health tested and certified clear before they are bred. We offer a full Two-Year Health Guarantee on all of our puppies and a lifetime of support and re-home if needed. Our puppies are checked by our Veterinarian several times, vaccinated, microchipped and come with a signed Health Certificate and shot record. All of our puppies are loved and socialized from the minute they are born. We expose the puppies to new sounds, smells, surfaces to walk on, people of all sizes, dogs, etc. .We start introducing our puppies to the crate at 3 weeks. By 8 weeks they are all sleeping in individual crates at night. This early head start to Crate Training makes the transition to your home less stressful for the puppy and you! Because your new Goldendoodle Puppy will be a family member for life, our goal is to match you with the right puppy. Our puppies are temperament- tested using the Volhard Puppy Aptitude Test. This, along with your puppy application, phone interview, emails, pictures and our first hand experience since , helps us match the perfect puppy to your family and lifestyle. Boot Camp for Puppies! For families interested in obtaining a fully-trained Goldendoodle puppy, we offer a one-of-a-kind puppy training program called McDoodles Boot Camp for Puppies. This program was the first of its kind and is specifically tailored for 8-week old Moss Creek Goldendoodle puppies. Depending on the length of stay, Moss Creek Goldendoodles go home from Boot Camp potty trained ringing their bells to be let out to potty. They know all their basic commands and follow them proudly. They are socialized and exposed to kids, cats, adults, car rides, dogs, birds and anything else the trainer feels would help. They are loving, taught manners, and not to nip and jump - to walk on leash by kids and adults. Weather permitting - the puppies are taught to swim and how to find their way out of a pool. Read references and testimonials from families who sent their puppy to McDoodles Boot Camp for Puppies.

Jack is a gentle and well behaved boy. Jack was a little scared when he first arrived at Ahimsa; however, he is feeling much better now. He has made new canine and human friends at Ahimsa. Jack is gentle and regal boy. He does not jump on people. He is house trained, and he walks well on a leash. Jack has an excellent temperament. He is great with other dogs. He is good around his food bowl Jack is approximately years old, and he weighs approx. He has outgrown his puppy stage and is now a fine and regal dog who will make an excellent canine companion and friend. Jack is good indoors and enjoys his big soft doggy bed. Jack is house trained, gentle, and well behaved. Jack is ready for his new forever home now. If you need a very nice dog like Jack then please come soon. Thank you for considering a rescued companion, and we hope to see your adoption application soon. There are many wonderful pets who find themselves homeless at no fault of their own. Thank you considering a rescued companion from all our happy tails and everyone at Ahimsa Rescue Foundation! The first step of the adoption process is the on line adoption application at www. We hope to see your application soon. Ahimsa Rescue Foundation www. We specialize in breeding Mini Goldendoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other high quality breeders that raise mini goldendoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! Not all mini Goldendoodles are equal, there are a few different versions to choose from each having a little different genetic background based on the pups parents. We will explain all the differences in Mini Goldendoodle puppies and how they are bred below. We raise all versions of the mini goldendoodle breed. F1 Mini Goldendoodle Pups. A F1 puppy is also known as a First Generation puppy. The puppies mother is a Golden Retriever and the pups dad is a Mini Poodle. This version of mini goldendoodle usually has soft wavy or curly puppy fur. They will shed until they lose their puppy fur, after shedding they will shed a lot less, but will shed. This version is partially hypoallergenic and usually requires low maintenance. F1 mini goldendoodles usually need to be groomed every 6 months along with daily brushing to keep their curly hair from matting and getting tangled. The dogs usually grow up having great temperaments similar to golden retrievers. They usually get about inches high at the shoulder and range in weight from pounds. F1b Mini Goldendoodle Pups. An F1b is known as a second-generation mini goldendoodle with the pups mother being already an F1 Goldendoodle and the pups dad being a mini poodle also. So the difference between F1 and F1b is that the mom is not a golden retriever but an actual F1 Goldendoodle. They also have very soft curly hair but with almost no shedding. This F1b version is semi-hypoallergenic and a better choice for anyone who has pet allergies. The F1b also should be brushed on a daily basis but will need to be groomed more frequently then a F1. A 6 to 8 week grooming schedule is recommended to keep their coat in perfect condition. F1b Mini goldendoodles get around 18 to 20 inches tall at the shoulders and range between pounds in weight. F1bb Mini Goldendoodle Pups. An F1bb goldendoodle is also known as a third-generation mini goldendoodle. This mini goldendoodle version has a coat more similar to a poodle than of a golden retriever. This is because the pup is more of a poodle than a retriever. Making it the very best version for anyone with pet allergies. A 6 to 8 week grooming schedule is required to help prevent knots or matting. This version is super intelligent and loving, and usually seems to have more energy than the other versions of Mini goldendoodles. This version is usually smaller in size, weighing around pounds and only getting inches tall at the shoulders. The smaller size makes them a great size for smaller homes and apartments. So if you live near Fort Smith Arkansas and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Goldendoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Goldendoodle Pups that have been adopted! She loves Denver and is always so excited to see him. At 6 months old and after only 6 classes, she is already the very best behaved dog we have ever had, thanks to him and Sara. I would recommend them to any dog owner, regardless of the age of the dog, whether the dog is aggressive, stubborn, or just a puppy who needs guidance. Diane Hodge Graduation for Wynston was today! We are so excited to have her home, and are beyond excited for her fantastic results! Cannot wait for group classes! Creighton Ellis Our pup was trained here and we both loved the experience! Bre Sumpter Very please with all aspects of the training. So happy to have Koda home and seeing his transformation Cameron Joubert Trainers were very kind and helpful! My dog came back very well trained! If your dig needs training use them! Katelyn Joubert Tiptopk9 have been the best decision that Murphy and I have made together! The trainers Sam and Sara were just what Murphy needed and we are looking forward to pleasant traveling adventures as a result of this training! Patti Smith When I first called about his training, he was barking at people a lot and many people would be afraid because he is a big dog. We are now finished with our fifth private lesson and see a great improvement. We actually were able to ride in the car and go through drive through a without any barking at the people by the third private lesson. The training can change your family and your dogs life, I recommend. Tuesday Howard My Lilly was a complete and total spaz that we could not begin to communicate with effectively. After her stay with these fine folk she is a different dog. Still her goofy loving self, but so well behaved. Couldn't expect a better result. Here she is after a long hike. She was absolutely amazing. We met other dogs on the trail, along with wildlife, and she never as much as tugged on the leash. Thank you guys!!! Curt Cosper Brad did an amazing job with training our Luna! She came in knowing barely anything and has learned so much in 5 weeks! Dom Les Tip Top K9 was amazing. Our boy Otis learned so much while he was there! The staff was fantastic. We would recommend to anyone! Travis Elliott Absolutely wonderful training service. My dog went in knowing nothing but sit and still only obedient to that on occasion , and many problems with aggression. The trainers are super friendly and great, too. Highly recommend! Kaitlin Butler Awesome class, was very helpful. Thanks Denver, Ashley, and Brad. William Rainey We have a Brittany Spaniel who was having some very breed specific issues. I could see a difference after 1 class! Highly recommend. Jessica Reavis We absolutely loved working with Sarah for the past 6 weeks during one on one training! Highly recommend Diane Potter TiptopK9 has been amazing to work with from the very first lesson! We knew Cash was capable and wanted to learn but we had no idea how to train him to reach his potential. Our biggest issues were recall and pulling on the leash. For 2 years, we tried so many ways to improve his skills and our confidence. We went into this hoping we could just get those 2 things down. The TipTopk9 training method is exactly what he needed. Our amazing trainer guided me through the whole process with incredible patience and skill! Cash and I have gained so much from our experience. After the first lesson, we never had to use the pinch collar again. Mattea Roweton Awesome job with our Boston Terrier. Sarah was great and pleasure. We would recommend to anyone looking into getting there dog trained! Amanda Simone Ashli did an amazing job training my very stubborn dog who started out either private lessons and eventually went to boot camp to become more polished with her commands and manners! Thank you Ashli and the whole TipTop K9 team for all your hard work and devotion to my dog. I would highly recommend to anyone needing a dog trainer! Ashley and Sara were awesome to work with. I would definitely recommend them!! FTR Raydon Dervish was a dumped doggie and needed a lot of training and love. At Tip Top K-9 Ft. Smith Training he received both love and great training. It was so awesome to work with Sam and staff at his pick up. He is in great shape and ready to go home. He has learned his manners and we have learned how to help him maintain them. Thank you Tip Top. We recommend them for all your training needs. LadyHawke Ranch My dog did well training here. Very pleased with how well mannered he is now Dallas Melvin Excellent Updates! Nina came back a very obedient and happy puppy! Malik Jallah Wonderful service and guidance with training my pup! Bryson Cook Our experience at Tip Top was amazing. Our dog, Violet, came back well trained. She bonded with the trainers akd started whining at the door when they left. That made our family feel good. We knew our girl was well taken care of during the two weeks she was gone. I would highly recommend Tip Top. Fionna Anderson Brad did such a wonderful job training our 8 mo mini bernedoodle! We are so pleased with the results of the advanced boot camp training package. It was definitely worth the investment! Would do it again in a heartbeat! Life changer! Hunter Beless Excellent communication. Very clear with directions. Homework sheets were very helpful. They were so great with keeping me updated and ensuring my dog learned everything he needed to. Would highly recommend the team!!! Jordan Hoke We love Tip Top and they have done great with both dogs. We are soooo in love with Sarah and we think Sam is great too. Our dogs will be awesome ambassadors for your training. What really impressed us was the way they trained. They work with the dogs to get the proper result then teach the human. I love that I am not reliant on a clicker or treats. The training collar is weaned off but utilized for refreshers. Highly recommend their training. Rebecca Mergner Great service! Delivered on everything they promised! Miriam Stafford It was a joy to work with the Tip Top trainers! They made it easy for me to get along with my pup! Gina Maddox Sara did great with my monster, thank you. Top to bottom a great experience. I saw so much improvement in my dog right away. E Bunting From the meet and greet we could tell the trainers were dedicated to and loved dogs. During training at Boot Camp we received updates about our dog Newton and the pictures it was clear he was beyond happy and cared for. Once Newton got home he is a completely different dog. He seems happier than ever. One of our issues we had sent him to Boot Camp for was bolting out the front door, and he was able to go off leash instantly when coming home with no issues. We will have endless more fun and enjoyment with our dog because of this training and would recommend it to anyone. Robert Foucart Awesome customer service and very professional with great results! Both girls listen well and have new found skills that will put our family at ease. Niki Morgan Sara brought our Izzy home and instructed us on all of the commands, she was great I want to thank all the staff, Brandon, Sam and Kai for all their hard work, thank youRoss Ross Morreale Our dog, Izzy, just returned from training at Tip Top and we could not be more excited with the results. We now have a very well behaved ausssie doodle. Thank you Brandon, Sam and Kai for the training and Sara for training us. We are so impressed with the amazing outcome that our precious Rosee exhibited! She can sit, down, place, heel, and even dance!!! We are so proud!! Keri Blevins Our Yorkie mix was just trained by the experts at tiptopk9 Arkansas! She did amazing and she did well with the training. She came home looking well taken care of and happy. Michael Salerno Very great team that trained our dog. You definitely get what you pay for! Brandon Nottingham Our Mini Aussie is doing awesome! She has so much more confidence in herself and listens better than I ever could have imagined.

Dog treats Dog crate Boxers are energetic and highly intelligent dogs. They strive for attention and love to please their owners. Although Boxers are quick learners, they tend to be stubborn when they do not want to do something. It is important to train Boxer puppies at an early age, as they can become hard to train and control. One of this first things you should do when you get your Boxer puppy home is to potty train it. Begin potty training when the Boxer puppies are at least 7 weeks old as they are now able to walk and learn. Make sure to start training as soon as possible. If you start potty training when the puppies are over 12 weeks of age, it will be more difficult for them to learn. They will have developed bad habits that will be hard to break. Choose a location in your yard where the Boxer puppy will go to the bathroom each time he goes outside. Always take the puppy to this one location when it is time to go potty. Do not confuse the puppy by taking him to a new location each time. Use the leash to lead the puppy to the location that you had chosen in Step 2. Stay in this area until the puppy has gone potty. Reward the puppy in this manner every time he has finished going to the bathroom. Create a consistent routine. Take the Boxer puppy outside to use the bathroom at the same times everyday. Putting the Boxer puppy on a regular feeding schedule will help you predict when the puppy needs to go potty. Repeat this process until the Boxer puppy is no longer going to the bathroom in the house. If you have a fenced-in yard, the puppy should be able to go to the bathroom on his own without a leash. This can take several weeks or more to accomplish. Tips It is important that you stay consistent with your training. Apply these steps in the exact same manner each time. Your puppy will learn much faster because puppies learn by repetition. If you do or say something different each time you take your puppy out to potty, you will confuse him. Watch for signs from your puppy that he needs to go to the bathroom. If your puppy is sniffing around, circling, whimpering or scratching at the door, he probably needs to go out. It is recommended that you purchase a dog crate if you cannot supervise your Boxer at all times. Make sure you purchase a large enough crate to accommodate your Boxer. You will need to crate train your puppy to ensure that he will not go to the bathroom throughout your home. This does nothing to help your puppy learn faster. Punishing will only make the puppy afraid of you. Instead, ignore your puppy when he has an accident and clean the mess up right away. Be patient and keep rewarding your Boxer puppy whenever he goes to the bathroom outside. Boxer Dog House Training Overview Housebreaking your Boxer does not need to be a struggle of wits or will power between you and your dog. How do you properly house train a Boxer? By following 2 main rules: 1. Use a method that prevents your Boxer from eliminating inside the home. Provide and offer an area to relieve themselves that is both easily accessible and available when they need it. Keeping these 2 training rules in mind, housebreaking your Boxer can be done without stress or frustration. Rule 1 The goal is for your Boxer to not eliminate inside the house but how do you accomplish this? It is really easier than you might think. There are 2 basic methods. Watch them like a hawk - If you are lucky enough to be able to stay home with your Boxer until he or she is house trained, you can use the Umbilical Cord Training Method. If you are away during the day, default to this method any time that you are home and it can be reasonably incorporated. You will simply put a leash on your Boxer and tether the other end to you. You may connect it to your belt loop or around your wrist. The important element is that your Boxer will never be more than 6 feet away from you. With this method, you will take your Boxer puppy outside every 2 hours for a 2 month old, every 3 hours for a 3 month old and so on. The less a pup is allowed an opportunity to have an "accident" inside, the more successful the house training will be done. And we must remember that essentially there are no accidents. When nature calls, a puppy will urinate or eliminate where they are at that moment. Bladder and bowel muscles are not at full strength and the Boxer has little control in regard to holding needs. Therefore, it is the owner's job to make sure that their Boxer is outside in the bathroom area, at the time that the body calls for it. The other method is confinement by crating and is not recommended. For times that you cannot be right with your Boxer puppy , it is best to have him in a gated off area. If the room that you choose has carpeting, it is recommended to obtain a piece of linoleum, that will not be installed, it will simply be placed down. It's a good idea to keep the gate open when you are home, allowing your Boxer to check things out and even play, should he choose. It will allow him to get used to the area for times when you are not home. Do keep in mind that without full control over holding his needs, he must still be taken out at the times mentioned above. When you are not home, pee pads or paper can be placed down; however do not expect your puppy to learn 2 methods of housebreaking. The beneficial element is that it will be confined to one space easy to clean up and as the Boxer grows, he will be able to hold his needs for longer periods of time, with the end result being able to hold on for the 8 hours or so that owners are away for work. Rule 2 You must clearly show your Boxer where you expect him to go to the bathroom. If there are any doubts in your dog's mind about where he is supposed to eliminate this will make for one confused dog. And, it will most likely lead to that dog just giving up and going inside the home. Choose a spot that works well in all weather. What looks like a great location on a warm spring day may not work so great when your older, trained Boxer has to hike thorough a foot of snow to reach it in the winter. The area should be roughly 8 feet in diameter and used for nothing else but bathroom needs. If you want to play with your Boxer or do some outdoor command training , do this after he goes to the bathroom and in a separate location at least 15 feet from the bathroom area. The location that you choose as the main spot for your Boxer to use as a bathroom is vital. A dog will become very confused if you show them a new area each time you bring them outside. Just having the yard or "somewhere outside" is not specific enough and will impede progress. The 1 complaint that owners have in regard to housebreaking their puppy is that he or she urinates or eliminates right after coming back into the house. While this may just be a matter of the dog's body not having the need while outside, most of the time it is because an owner did not give the dog an opportunity to do so. Puppies need to sniff around - stand in the center of the chosen area - and with your Boxer on a 6 foot lead, allow him to sniff away any where within that diameter. As they are sniffing, their body is readying to push out a bowel movement and an owner must allow for enough time to go by for this to happen. The mistake occurs when an owner heads back in with their Boxer, only minutes before the dog is ready and that is when the dog eliminates seemingly right after entering back inside. As digested food moved through the intestinal tract, the puppy clenched bowel muscles in anticipation of being taken out. A pup needs 15 to 20 minutes to find just the "perfect" spot and to relax enough to do the deed. How to Begin Using the above Umbilical Cord Training Method Each time your puppy makes a motion that implies that they are about to eliminate, you must bring your dog outside to a designated area. In some cases, you may need to pick up your puppy and run to that spot - expect to do this several times, as even finishing in the designated bathroom area is preferred to not at all. Still give praise even if he only finished up there. Don't scold for what's been done inside, as again, the dog went to the bathroom in the area he was in at the time. Taken outside enough will stop this from happening - and don't worry, as your Boxer matures, he will be able to hold on for about 1 hour extra, for each month that he ages. As soon as your Boxer is done with their business, give tons of praise. A puppy has no idea that he did something right, unless it is conveyed to him via words and at times, additionally a treat. You do not need to give your dog a treat each time they "perform" good; but you should shower your Boxer with pats and tons of happy and excited words. Act as if your dog just did the best possible action in the world! A dog aims to please their owner; if you make your Boxer feel as if he did something extraordinarily wonderful, he or she will be prone to do it again. This does not need to be done forever. Once a dog performs enough repetitions of a certain action, it becomes habit. However, an occasional "good dog! Block off certain rooms that are not in use and use a gate to keep your Boxer on the level of the home where you are. If "allowed" to have accidents, they will continue to believe that they can go urinate or eliminate inside of the home. Even if you yell "NO! Be sure that it is large enough for the pup to: play, sleep, eat and go to the bathroom. Crating does not work when a dog is left home alone. Canines do not care to go to the bathroom in a confined space, but if left with no other choice, they will.Bring your Boxer out about 20 minutes before you leave. Bring him out as soon as you arrive back home. Don't scold for any messes that occurred while you were gone, it makes no sense to reprimand a dog for a natural bodily function. Leaving Your Boxer Outside There are several reasons why a Boxer of any age should not be sent out into the yard without supervision. The Boxer is among the top dog breeds that are stolen. Where are they taken from? Their own yards. A fence may keep other dogs out, but it will not keep out a thief intent on jumping over the fence to take your helpless puppy. Until a Boxer is old enough to scare off a thief, do not leave your puppy outside. In addition, outside elements such as the hot sun can quickly overheat a dog causing heat exhaustion, which ultimately leads to death if treatment is not given in enough time. Your Boxer puppy should be taken out many times during the day, given that he or she sleeps through the night: When they first wake up After each meal times a day Before bedtime A general guideline in house training a dog is that a 2 month old Boxer puppy can hold its needs for 2 hours, a 3 month old for 3 hours and so on. The maximum time that any dog should ever be expected to hold their needs is 8 hours and this is for a full grown adult canine. Taking steps to help your Boxer sleep through the night can also help to some extent. Keeping in mind that meals must be spaced apart from exercise to help prevent bloat , a good bout of cardio about 2 hours before bed may help a pup sleep better through the night.

Apply to Adopt A little about us.Genuine Australian labradoodle puppy breeder since .Located in Monterey, California just two hours south of San Francisco. We are a small in-house breeder specializing in breeding miniature to medium labradoodles from the seeing eye dog Australian lines. We do not ship our puppies but will meet new owners at the airport. We average four to five litters a year. This gives us the time to complete early neurological stimulation starting at three days and desensitizing to fireworks, thunderstorms, etc. We give each litter and each puppy the love and attention it needs during those first irreplaceable eight weeks of your puppy's life. We take great responsibility in giving every puppy the best start in order to grow into a well-adjusted, highly socialized, and healthy member of your family for many years to come. Our puppies are born in our bedroom, raised in our kitchen and get the best of care and lots of handling from their first day. We not only guarantee genetic health but also have very strict requirements for the temperaments of the breeding dogs in our program. Puppies are examined by a veterinarian, vaccinated, and micro chipped before going home. About Australian Labradoodles.Australian Labradoodles are beautiful, healthy, allergy and asthma friendly. They were originally bred to be service dogs and not a 'designer' pet. The Labradoodle breed started with a request over thirty years ago by a family needing a seeing eye dog but who also had a family member with asthma. After some research and years of breeding by leading service dog breeders, Tegan Park and Rutland Manor in Australia, the Australian Labradoodle was born. Our top goal is excellent health, fantastic temperament, and service qualities. Just like any other breed that becomes popular, though, some breeders have started breeding for the popularity of these dogs and not for the benefit of the breed itself. So here's how to make sure you're getting the dog you want. Here are some helpful tips to understand what a breeder means when they are using these phrases. The multi-generation Australian Labradoodle, which is the original Labradoodle, has a foundation stock including six different parent breeds. These dogs were developed in Australia, and hence the "Australian" in the name of the dogs. This was a breed that was developed with goals in mind for a low shedding service dog, not a designer dog. The multi-generation Labradoodle has only poodle and lab in its heritage. It does not include the other parent breeds that were originally used by the creators of the breed. These have been primarily developed later in the U. These dogs tend to shed their coat since they are more closely related to the Labrador and often have a wire hair look to them. The "Back Cross" or "F1B" is a dog from an F1 see above mated back to a poodle usually for coat correction. These dogs have not had the multiple generations of Labradoodle mated with another Labradoodle nor the addition of Australian Labradoodle foundation stock or multiple parent breeds. With 17 years of experience in breeding Australian Labradoodles, we pride ourselves on selecting only the best dogs for our breeding program, which in turn ensures that we are producing the best puppies imaginable. We work closely with our licensed vet to perform health testing, including hip and elbow testing; eyes, heart, skin, and patella testing; and a series of genetic tests, on all of our breeding dogs. We provide a temperature controlled, in home my master bedroom environment, with sound therapy to expose your puppy to lifes sounds from an early age. This helps desensitize your puppy to the sounds of life traffic, fireworks, outdoor machinery, crying baby, misc appliances, automobiles, etc. We start crate training at 5 weeks with a soothing heartbeat snuggle puppy to comfort them as they transition to sleeping alone and all the puppies love it and sleep better with minimal crying. We add nutrients and special additives for puppies to their drinking water. We add probiotics to their food for a healthy GI tract and immune system. We make special liver water, gruel, with puppy supplements, dog milk formula to their nutritionally dense food to support eyes, ear, bone, joint, coat and heart health. We expose your puppy to sunlight daily on the deck right outside the puppy nursery area. There is always a plush bedding for their cozy comfort in their play areas for those impromptu naps puppies love. Our puppies are held and played with while being bathed and exposed to water, in our walk-in shower, which builds a positive experience, with water, for their lifetime. Bath time is with a human sitting in this large shower allowing plenty of space for your puppy too roam around and enjoy water in a nurturing experience. The puppies love it instead of being in a sink with a dry human just washing them. Water is actual playtime while they get clean and build positive experiences with being wet. Instead we utilize Puppy Culture, Badass Breeder protocols and tons of love from humans that are passionate and dedicated to what they do. Please feel free to contact us with any questions. We look forward to providing you with your fury best friend! When full grown, these health tested, Australian Labradoodle puppies will be approximately pounds with wavy fleece coats, curly fleece coats or the occasional straighter hair fleece coats. Our puppies can go home as early as 8 weeks old. We can also hold back a puppy if you are interested in training services. Sugar Pine Doodles on Facebook. Would you like to be a guardian for one of our breeding doodles? Please click for our Guardian Home Program to learn more. Find the Next Member of Your Family. We strive to produce dogs absent of the genetic diseases prevalent in many purebred dogs today. We offer a 2-year Health Warranty against severe genetic defects and pledge to provide lifetime consulation support for your dog. We aim for a "personal" touch in our relationship with our puppy families and are happy to answer any questions you might have about the breed, about our dogs and about what you might expect from an Australian Labradoodle Puppy. Pictures and stories of our most recent litters and adult dogs on our "Puppy Photo Blog"! Happy Fall ! Puppies Are On The Ground! We are taking reservations for our 4 litters going home December- March .Chocolates, Reds, Apricots, Caramels in large mini to mediums. A Guardian Home will keep the dog as their own family pet, while we retain breeding rights for a specified number of litters in the case of females , after which she will be spayed and retired to the family forever. Males will need to remain intact for years. Please phone or email for more information on this opportunity. A few key facts about our program.You can follow how our puppies grow on our "Puppy Photo Blog"! Our dogs live in our homes as beloved family members or in loving Guardian Homes. The adult dogs play an important role in socializing puppies and teaching them canine "Good Manners," while the human family members devote countless hours to individualized puppy care. Puppies are exposed to a variety of different stimuli including vacuum cleaners, car rides, a cat, chickens, annoying pop music, unusual culinary aromas, an excess of televised sporting events, and the bagpipes! Careful but Extensive Socialization While we are extremely careful about keeping young puppies protected from disease and from stress, we try to expose the puppies to a variety of humans throughout their lives with us. Personalized "Match-making" While we appreciate good-looks as much as the next person, temperament and sound health are the key factors behind breeding quality Labradoodles. Can you judge a book by its cover? We evaluate our puppies' personalities extensively and focus on achieving the optimal match between puppy and family. Ongoing Support Have questions about how to manage your new family member? Need advice on food or training? Referral to a vet or groomer? Or would you like a lesson on grooming your dog? Vacation boarding for your new puppy? We are committed to providing assistance to our Labradoodle community throughout the life of the dog.

Perfect for first time pet parents, the Black Pug is a loving and easy to train dog that is known for being very affectionate and the perfect companion. These pups are classified as a Toy breed because of their tiny size, which means they are a great canine for those with smaller spaces who still want a furry friend to cuddle! Read on below to find out more about this interesting little dog. History Of The Black Pug The Black Pug is one of the oldest purebred dogs in history and they have, therefore, been recognized for a long time by many different kennel clubs. They were originally worshiped in Egypt and bred as companion dogs for Tibetan Buddhists. Then, around two thousand years ago, the Black Pug came to China and many Emperors believe that these dogs brought good luck and began to worship them. In the s, Dutch traders brought the Black Pug from China to England and Holland and these pups became a popular dog among aristocracy and royalty. After the Civil War they made their first appearance in the US. Characteristics The Black Pug falls under the Toy breed and they are known for being extremely cute. These dogs are normally born in litters of one to nine puppies, although four to six puppies is most common. Appearance By the time your Pug dog is 8 weeks old, they will be ready to leave their mother and come home with you. They will be roughly between 2 to 4 lb. By the time your Pug is one year old they will be fully-grown and considered an adult. They can weigh up to 20 lbs, but the breed standard suggests they should weigh between 13 to 18 pounds. Because the Pug is in the Toy category, they normally stand between 10 to 14 inches. Although they are small, they are quite stocky animals and are normally short legged with a symmetrical cobby body and a large apple shaped head. The face is one of the most distinctive features of a Pug. They should also have a corkscrew tail. Coat The Pug coat is short, straight and soft. Unlike fawn colored Pugs, Black Pugs have a single coat which does mean they will shed less than their fawn siblings. That being said, Black Pug dogs are still known to shed and will lose more hair in the warmer seasons, which means they are not a good pet to have in the house if you have allergies! We go into more detail about grooming your Pug later on. Color Of course, Black Pugs should be black all over! The brindle colorway that some Pugs may have should not be confused with the black coloring. Brindle is a a striped pattern that combines black and brown and this coloring is not accepted in the breed standard. Temperament Pugs are bred to be companion puppies and will love to spend their days by your side. All they want is to be loved, and they will give plenty of this love back to you! The perfect family dog, Pugs love both adults and children. These dogs are very energetic and love playtime. They especially love to play with their family and can go on for hours! However, once they are back home they will happily curl up next to you on the couch and relax too, making them the perfect best friend. Although these dogs are very active and will want to play, they are also very relaxed dogs, which is what makes them such good first time pets. However, this does not come off as aggressive, and instead shows more of their curious nature. Lifespan The Black Pug has an average life expectancy of around 12 to 15 years. This is relatively long for a dog. Known Health Issues Unfortunately, like any dog, Pugs are known to have some health issues. Within this breed, the majority of their health problems are due to their flattened face. They are known as a brachycephalic breed which means they have a shortened airway due to their flattened face. Their face can be the cause of many breathing issues, especially whilst exercising or during high temperatures. Before buying a Pug you should do your research on brachycephalic breeds and learn about the risks and issues that are associated with this breed. The Pugs eyes can also be the cause of other health issues. Their skull structure means they have shallower eye sockets which gives them bulgy eyes. This can sometimes lead to cataracts and vision loss. Daily Life Now we know all about the temperament and characteristics of the Black Pug, it is time to take a look at what daily life is like with them. Read on below to find out about their food and diet, their exercise needs and what training a Pug is like. Food And Diet It is advised that a Toy dog of the Pug size should be eating around 40 calories per pound of their body weight everyday. This should be around calories a day for an adult Pug. Until they are 6 months old they will need to be fed three times a day, then twice a day from six months to one year, and then once a day when they hit their adult age. High-quality dry dog food with added water for moisture is advised for a Pug. Always make sure that it is a nutritious diet that hits all the food groups. They are a breed that can be known to gain weight, so try to stick to their diet and refrain from feeding them scraps. The more weight they gain, the more they will struggle with their breathing and may be prone to breathing problems. This food is also made with real chicken as the number on ingredient and ensures your Pug will be getting all the nutrients they need. Even better, because the Pug can be known to gain weight, this food helps with weight management and ensures they maintain lean muscles throughout the course of their life. Exercise The Pug only has little legs which means their exercise needs are not great. You should take them for two 20 minute walks everyday. Pugs are very sociable dogs, so taking them on different routes so you can introduce them to new sounds and smells is advisable. Black Pugs, because of their dark coat, are more prone to overheating in the sun, so if you live in a hot part of the world then walking them at night or early in the morning is advised. As we have mentioned before, Pugs love to play. Between walks you should ensure you make time to play games with them and keep them stimulated. Remember, they love spending time with you, so the more you do it, the happier they will be! Family Compatibility A Black Pug is a perfect family dog. First and foremost, these dogs love to be around people — both adults and children — and will be happiest when they are by your side, making them a true companion dog. Because they are a little dog, the Black Pug does not have great exercise needs which means they are great for those who live in small apartments or those who do not have a yard for them to run around in. That being said, they do love to play, so you should make sure you have time to put aside for bonding with your Pug. Training your Pug is simple too, and they get on well with other humans and animals. This includes other household pets such as cats and rabbits, and they will seek out humans for extra attention. Pugs also do not have high grooming needs — all you need to do is give them some love! Training and Socializing Pugs are a very intelligent dog, which makes training them easy. You should always use positive reinforcement and rewards in the form or verbal praise and treats to show them that they are doing a good job. They can be a little stubborn, but as long as you are consistent with them, then your Pug will learn. Never use harsh punishments with your Pug because this will upset them and you will not get any positive work from them. Socializing your Pug is also simple, because they love other people. You should try taking them to new places as often as you can so they can experience new sounds and smells, although it is known that Pugs react very well in many different situations. Remember, these dogs just want to be loved and to play, so as long as you incorporate that wherever you go, they will be happy. Grooming Because the Black Pug has a short and smooth coat, their grooming needs are not too high. However, as we mentioned above, these doggies can be known to shed so giving them a brush every week is a good idea to help minimize any shedding. You can bathe your Pug whenever you need to, although experts recommend that this should be done once a month. When bathing them you will need to ensure you clean the wrinkles on their face because bacteria and dirt can build up inside them and cause infection. Always ensure you take time to dry them properly, too. You can also used dental sticks if it is easier. Make sure you start grooming your Pug from a young age so they get used to the routine. This will allow them to see that there is nothing to worry about and they do not need to be scared. Black Pugs are not known for being aggressive dogs at all. The Pug is a loving and affectionate dog that makes the perfect companion. They love to be around humans, especially children, and other pets too. These dogs enjoy running and playing and will thrive in an environment where they can spend their day by your side. They also love to curl up next to you on the couch after a long day. Pugs have been known to be protective over their humans, but this comes from a place of curiosity instead of hostility. Many people say that Pugs are the pooch that just want to be loved so no, they are not aggressive! How much is a Black Pug? A Black Pug is one of the cheaper variations of the Pug breed and are not as expensive as their fawn colored siblings. Always remember to buy from a reputable breeder. If this is out of your price range, you can always check your local animal shelter and see if there are any Pugs there that need a home. There are many dogs in shelters who need loving and caring companions! Summary The Black Pug is an adorable and loving small breed of dog. Playful and energetic, this dog loves to play and will certainly keep you on your toes. These dogs are relatively low maintenance and do not have high grooming or exercise needs, and do well in small apartments. Perfect for first time dog owners, do you think a Black Pug could be for you? Search Dog Breeds. Life Span Did You Know? The Pug, or Pug Dog, is famous for its flat-faced appearance and large, soulful eyes. They are an ancient dog breed that originated in China over 2, years ago. They were originally developed as a refined pet of Chinese royalty along with the Pekingese and the Shih Tzu. During this time, the Pug was considered a national treasure that outsiders could only access if one was gifted to them. Dutch traders from the s can be credited with bringing the Pug onto the world stage when they brought some back to Europe with them. The Pug made its way to the United States in the s. Now, the Pug is a popular dog breed worldwide. They are a popular companion that provides their owners with plenty of love and laughter from their comedic and playful antics. The Pug is a playful and outgoing dog breed with a charming personality. They tend to be very loving towards children and also get along well with other pets and dogs. They are a companion breed at heart known for their gentle nature and sociable personality. They love to give love and receive it in return. Their sensitive nature makes them intuitive as well and Pugs will often sense the moods of their owners and react accordingly. They crave attention and affection from their owners and are big fans of napping. This dog breed is often described as an ideal house dog and they are moderately adaptable. They will do well in homes of any size, including apartments. The Pug also adapts well to city or country life and are a good fit for singles or families of any size. Although they are highly adaptable to various living situations, they are less adaptable to climates. Pugs are very sensitive to the heat and overexertion, so they are best-suited to moderate climates. They also love to be with their families and will not be happy if left alone for a long time. As with any dog breed, the Pug has some health conditions to be aware of. In particular, corneal ulcers and dry eye are some potential eye problems that can occur. Additionally, Pugs can be susceptible to hip dysplasia, patellar luxation, and encephalitis. Asking the breeder about the genetic history of the parents and to see health clearances can help allay concerns for some of these health issues. Pugs are also big foodies. They love to eat! Their love for food means this dog breed is prone to obesity. As a brachycephalic dog, their large head and short snout often cause respiratory problems, which can limit their exercise at times and contribute to weight gain. This will cause them to quickly gasp and snort, which can sound relatively alarming. These episodes are usually not harmful as your Pug is just clearing their palate and throat. The Pug tends to be easy to train and is a good fit for owners of any experience level. They are eager to please their owners and tend to pick up on commands quickly. They are sensitive souls and their feelings can be hurt easily, so they will not respond well to harsh corrections. This dog breed responds best to consistent training that focuses on positive rewards and will benefit from participation in puppy training classes. Pugs have a smooth, glossy, and short coat. Their fur is fine and soft. Although their coat is generally low-maintenance, it will shed throughout the year. Aside from brushing, Pugs only need occasional baths on an as-needed basis. Because Pugs have ears that drop down, they can be susceptible to moisture, dirt, or debris. Checking their ears regularly and cleaning as needed helps to keep them healthy and comfortable. The same goes for their iconic face wrinkles. Daily brushing is ideal, but if your Pug is not allowing you to do that, a few times a week should be sufficient. Getting your Pug used to these grooming tasks as a puppy will help make it a positive bonding experience and a much easier process throughout their life. This dog breed has a low to moderate energy level. Generally, daily walks and some play sessions are enough exercise for this dog breed. They may have short bursts of energy as they have a very playful nature, but they will tire easily. Some Pugs can handle a little more activity and even compete in some dogs sports like agility, rally, and obedience. Make sure you check with your vet first before jumping into dog sports with your dog. A full-grown Pug will usually stand 10 to 11 inches tall at the shoulders and weigh between 14 and 18 pounds. This dog breed generally lives for years. The Pug was a popular pet of the Buddhist monasteries in Tibet. Featured Pug Article. A dog with the original black body was created using the Black Collie. These dogs have Black colouring as a result, giving them blue to green eyes, pure black paws, and blue to grey skin. The available Black female Pug is incredibly clever and energetic. Because they exert pressure on livestock and deter predators, this has made them well-known on farms. They enjoy playing, but they can be obstinate and need frequent praise. Black Pugs have frequently devoted friends and are helpful with kids. They might not get along with other pets in the house as well unless they were raised together since they occasionally view them as prey. Their double coat is another distinguishing characteristic of this breed. Their entire individuality and appeal are enhanced by the Black colouring, which causes differences in coat lengths and textures across the body. With their owners, they are highly affectionate, yet they can be distant from outsiders. They can live with whom? The Black Pug is a highly well-known breed. They are referred to as the clown of the dog world and like playing with other dogs. Nearby Black Pugs for sale get along well with other dogs and enjoy social interactions with people. However, if you have to leave your house for an extended amount of time, make sure someone is watching them. These Pugs for sale nearby do not enjoy being left alone. Children, other dogs, cats, and even rabbits are all acceptable housemates for our Black Pug for sale! However, due to their high requirement for care and socialisation, they are not recommended for novice dog owners. They may reside in an apartment building or a home with a yard. They thrive in households with a continual presence of people because they require constant company. Where can I find Black Pugs for sale locally? Our selection of Black Pug pups for sale is incredible, and they are all very sweet! Related products.

How is a puppy supposed to know a behavior is not acceptable if you simply ignore it? Click to expand.You can't reason with a baby or a toddler with inadequate bladder control. This is about physical development, not behaviour. To reiterate, it's the owner's mistake when a puppy toilets inside, not the puppy's. I'm afraid you're not going to find much agreement with your method here. The puppy's instinct not to soil the den will kick in as it's nurtured. No, you're going to tell him "no" and take him away from it and give him a chew toy instead to make the point that chewing the sofa is not acceptable. Simply ignoring the bad behavior is just going to leave you needing to buy a new sofa. Same with potty training. Nope, you don't have to tell him "no", which means absolutely nothing to the puppy, unless you yell at him, in which case it will only work if the puppy feels punished by it. As it is, you can simply redirect him onto something else and prevent the behaviour happening by management; deny him access to the behaviour. This is not the same as ignoring the behaviour. No physical correction was used. A "No! No-one is saying it's cruel, but it is undeniably punishment and you have to own that. How is a puppy to know something is not acceptable if you don't communicate that? You teach them what to do rather than what not to do. Do you pee as often at night as you do during the day? Same with dogs. You cannot judge a puppy's daytime bladder control based on how long they can hold it overnight. Apologies if you feel vilified, but shouting at your puppy is neither necessary nor, to most of us here, acceptable. Umbilical cord training Throughout the rest of this guide I will be referring to each of these 4 methods and when you should or could be using them. Once used to using the paper or the pads, you slowly cut the area covered until they reliably use just a couple of sheets and never miss. You then slowly move the paper toward the outside where another set is placed and you begin to encourage your puppy to go outside only, before completely removing the papers inside. At this point they will have made the transition. A top tip when paper training is when you clean away soiled paper, you should hold one piece back and place it as a middle layer of the new papers. Puppy pads have a scent that attracts a puppy, paper does not. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 3. This is confusing and will make the learning process take longer. Best suited to: Either people who are going to have an indoor bathroom spot long-term, or people who will not use a crate for training yet cannot commit to constantly supervising their puppy when inside the home. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, definitely a 5. But it does result in more mistakes from your puppy until later in life. Equipment needed: Nothing but stacks of old newspapers! A very cost-effective method. Description: The method takes advantage of the fact dogs have a natural instinct not to soil the area where they eat and sleep. Key to this is making the crate just large enough to stand in, turn around easily and lay down stretched out but no bigger. The rest of the time you watch them and regularly take them outside to potty to teach them good habits. Best suited to: Everybody! This is because you will have to crate train your puppy before you can use a crate for house training which does take time and effort. Click here for my free and detailed guide to crate training your puppy. Equipment needed: A suitable crate. I have a guide to help you select the right size and type that you can read by clicking here. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I tentatively give it a 3. It could actually score higher or lower depending on how committed you are and how successful at supervising your puppy you are. Best suited to: People who are against any kind of confinement and can stay at home to watch their puppy all day every day. Mostly people who work from home and the retired. But this method also forms a part of every house training plan, whether you use other methods alongside or not. This is because when a puppy is free inside a home, they MUST be closely supervised to prevent any mistakes. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 2. It scores low as it requires a lot of input from you as the owner. It is quite draining never being able to take your eye of your puppy. Equipment needed: None. Not a crate, newspapers, puppy pads or anything. The cheapest of all the methods…unless you put a price on your time. But it is highly effective. Description: This technique calls for you to tether your puppy to you by leash and have them follow you wherever you go when inside your home. You will notice and be able to intervene and correct every possible mistake, taking them outside every time they need to relieve themselves. Used correctly, the opportunity for your puppy to make mistakes is completely removed so every single time they need to visit their bathroom spot is a training opportunity you will take advantage of and no mistake goes uncorrected. Best suited to: People who spend all their time at home with their puppy and would also enjoy literally being tied to their pup all day. Further Info: for a detailed discussion of this technique, the benefits, downside, and many more tips, please see my article: Umbilical Cord House Training: What is It? How Does It Work? A Mix Of 3 Methods I use and recommend a mixture of crate training, constant supervision and paper training. I use constant supervision extensively because when a puppy is outside of the crate you have to watch them diligently to avoid puppy mistakes. Admittedly this is somewhat going against my advice because I always recommend to avoid paper training if possible. It encourages or allows your puppy to toilet inside the home, before then training them not to do so. This is confusing to your puppy and harmful to our house training efforts. But even though I recommend against it, using paper training ever so occasionally as a fall back plan works well for me. Most dogs love being outside and will use any excuse to get out there and stay there. You do this by using a cue word and walking them on leash to their potty spot, not allowing them to do anything else and if they do not potty, taking them back inside and trying again in a few minutes. Because a full bladder or bowel is uncomfortable, dogs are happy to relieve themselves, but some may try to hold it if they think they can get to stay outside and sniff around a while. If people use different words, your dog will get confused. This will slowly teach them the command. And this is fine for the first couple of weeks while they have no bladder control and will perform their business very quickly. And some dogs even learn to actively hold their bladder just so they can stay outside to explore for longer. Before you can do this you need to first get your puppy used to wearing a collar and leash. Have You Got Everything Prepared? A Check-list Before You Start Like everything in life, house training runs smoother if you have everything ready before you start, hopefully before you even bring your puppy home. Have you: Decided on and marked out a suitable bathroom spot? Chosen and purchased a suitable high-quality nutritious food? Figured out the times of day you will feed your puppy? Got a collar and leash? Put in place a leash training plan? Bought a suitable crate and set it up in a suitable place? Bought bedding for the crate? Bought chew toys to occupy your puppy in the crate? Decided on the commands you will use if any? Purchased either baby gates, a pet barrier or an exercise pen for longer term confinement? Sourced stacks of newspapers or puppy pads to use in the long-term confinement area? Bought some small but highly tasty training treats to use as a reward? Bought specialized pet stain removing and odor neutralizing cleaning products? Bought a UV light to find hidden spots of urine that must be removed to prevent repeat accidents? Sat and discussed with every member of your household your finalized plans so everybody has the same info? Successful House Training Is All About Schedules And Routine Dogs thrive when living to schedules and routine, doing best when they have set times for eating, going to toilet, exercise, training and play. But because the passage of food through their digestive system stays roughly the same, if you feed your puppy at the same times every day they will need to defecate at roughly the same times every day. This results in fewer mistakes, more opportunities to praise your puppy for going in the right place and so speeds up their learning. Depending on their age a puppy will need to poop 3 to 6 times a day, and wee many more times than that. Can these times be predicted? Mostly they can. When a puppy needs to potty depends on when they last ate, drank and their recent activities. Mostly they need to go: First thing in the morning The instant they wake up from a nap at any time of the day Just before going to bed Within a few minutes of eating or drinking Immediately after a play session Immediately after any excitement But a puppy also needs to go many times per day regardless of recent activities, so you should also take your puppy to their bathroom spot on a consistent schedule such as the following: At 8 weeks old — every 30 mins. At 10 weeks old — every 45 mins. At 12 weeks old — every 1 to 1. At 16 weeks old — every 2 hours. At 20 weeks old — every 3 hours. Some will need to wee within 2 minutes of drinking, others after 20 minutes. Some will need a bathroom break within 2 minutes of waking, others 15 minutes later. You have to determine your puppies own natural tendencies and create a schedule to suit. To achieve this, you need to follow this 5 step process: Feed them to a strict schedule. Decide on exercise, play and training times. Develop a schedule including feeding, exercise, play, training and all scheduled potty times. Use the information gathered in your diary to learn from any mistakes and adjust your schedule for the following week. The more you can stick to schedules and routines, the smoother and faster the process will be. But you can stray from the path when necessary and still find success, it will just take a little longer. You should feed your puppy 3 times a day when 12 to 26 weeks old. From 26 weeks old and onwards, feed your puppy just two times a day For 2 meals a day you need to space them out 8 to 12 hours apart. What works for me is shortly after I get up at and when we have our evening meal between PM and PM. Availability Of Water: You should make sure fresh water is always available but because drinking too much or too little can be a sign of health problems, you do need to monitor their water intake. Physical activity often leads to a puppy needing to potty very soon after. So to encourage predictable potty times for your puppy, you want to schedule their exercise and play. Deciding when to exercise, train and play with your puppy is entirely up to you. You should fit it around your lifestyle and commitments, but try to make it the same times each day if you can. Enter all the following details into a single column in an excel spreadsheet, or write them down as a day schedule with a pen and paper: When you wake and add an instant bathroom break before you do ANYTHING for yourself! Enter the times you will play with, train and exercise your puppy. Enter a scheduled visit to the bathroom spot after each of the activities listed in points 1 to 3. Add scheduled bathroom visits after any length of time longer than your puppy should be expected to hold it according to their age. Write in scheduled sleeps for your puppy, place them in the crate or confinement area. After writing down this schedule, tick off each task as you go through the day with your puppy. This way you will always know what needs to be done and when, and there will be no confusion about whether someone else in the house fed, exercised or took the puppy to the loo. I discuss this further in step 5 below. You should be able to pick up on any patterns and adjust your own behavior to avoid mistakes in future. Was puppy left alone and peed in the living room while you made breakfast? Puppy should never be left alone unsupervised, learn from this mistake. Or maybe puppy peed in the crate after an hour? Learn from this mistake. Well done for watching them closely enough. So increase the frequency. Therefore you should stretch out the time between visits by 10 to 15 minutes for the following day. This is how you find out. And Now House Training is So Much Easier By writing out the schedule as in step 3, you should never forget to feed, train or take your puppy to potty. And by using the schedule as a diary as in step 5, you get feedback on how you and your puppy are performing, and are armed with the necessary info to make changes to your schedule over time. You, your puppy and their needs all stay in sync and house training becomes that much easier. Just make a spreadsheet in excel and print it out, or simply buy some lined paper. Keep it somewhere you can always see and know where it is, alongside a pen or pencil and write entries in it as you watch your puppy throughout the day. After this, continuing with a diary every day is the best advice, although keeping one for 3 consecutive days each week will be sufficient for you to pick up on any changes as they mature. Once your puppy is 5 to 6 months old, they will have sufficient bladder control and experience to make a schedule and diary unnecessary. Just make sure they get access to the outside at least once every 3 hours and all will be fine. Extending The Time Between Toilet Breaks I discussed earlier how a puppy will need regular visits to their bathroom spot, something like every 30 minutes at 8 weeks old, every 45 minutes at 10 weeks old and so on. But every puppy is different and their progress in having longer time between needed toilet breaks will vary too. You do this because as a puppy grows, the size of their bowel and bladder increases, so they will be able to hold more for longer and you want to take advantage of this. This is also teaching them necessary bladder and bowel control. Use your cue word before you take them: By using your chosen cue word every time before you take them to potty, your puppy will learn what the trip is about and what they must do. This eventually leads to faster results as they know what is expected of them. Lead your puppy to the bathroom spot on leash: This gives you the ability to keep your puppy at the bathroom spot and prevent them wandering off, getting distracted and forgetting what they are there for. Make sure you stay with them at their bathroom spot: If you have them on leash, then of course you will be. When they start to go, say your chosen cue word in a soft warm voice. Mix up the reward between play, time off leash and a food reward to keep them guessing, but keep the food rewards to a minimum as what goes in must come out and random feeding promotes random elimination times! Many people pop out, stand for 1 minute and then come back in. Some people recommend to stay out there for 10, 15, 20 minutes, whatever it takes until they go, then praise profusely when they do. I recommend you give them 3 to 5 minutes, saying your cue word every 30 seconds or so but otherwise standing silently still just holding their leash so they cannot wander off. Take them back to their bathroom spot in 10 minutes or so. If using a crate for house training: Pop them back in the crate and leave them for 10 minutes. Then take them back to their bathroom spot. Take them to their bathroom spot after 10 minutes. If not, take them away from their bathroom spot and watch them for 10 minutes before returning them to their bathroom spot. And if crate training, do not leave them in the crate too long else they may be forced to soil in there. Prevent this at all costs. Rinse and repeat the visits to and fro like this until they do potty, then follow the next sections advice. What You Should Do Between Scheduled Bathroom Breaks Between scheduled bathroom visits you should do two things: Allow some supervised free time in your home, and use your chosen house training method. By free time I mean time outside of their crate, or off leash, or out of their confinement area. Time free to roam, explore and live life. When 10 weeks old they may need to toilet every 30 minutes, so they only get 5 to 10 minutes free time. When 12 weeks old, they may need to toilet every hour so they can get 35 to 40 minutes free time. You allow this free time because you are of course working toward a time when they will always be free and trusted unsupervised. To get there they need the experience, to get used to being free in your home and begin seeing it as a place they need to keep clean. They also need social interaction and life experiences. But what are the signs a puppy is about to potty? Heading toward, barking at or scratching the door to the outside. The minute you see any of these signs you should take your puppy to their bathroom spot immediately. There may well be some false alarms, but better safe than sorry. Carefully watch them and you should soon notice what body language means a wee or a poop is imminent. There will be recognizable signs. We do this because the time is fast approaching when mistakes are most likely to be made. If using constant supervision: Carry on as you are. Then at their scheduled potty time, attach a leash and lead them to their bathroom spot. If using a crate for house training: Encourage your puppy into their crate and close the door, leaving them there until their scheduled potty time and then release them, instantly attaching a leash and leading them to their bathroom spot. If using umbilical cord training: Attach a leash and tether your puppy to you, ready to react if they make moves to eliminate. Take them to their bathroom spot at the scheduled time. If paper training: Take your puppy to their confinement area where their papered bathroom spot is and supervise them, ready to intervene if they make moves to potty away from the paper. Not good when you need to be there to encourage them for doing it in the right place. If they do, you can pick them up and carry them, or take them by the collar and gently lead them to their bathroom spot, then encourage them to finish where they should. But to me this seems foolish. Instead of a little pile or puddle, you then have a long line of wee or poop from where you caught them all the way to the bathroom spot that you then have to deep clean instead. Then think how they were able to make such a mistake and tweak your plans so it cannot happen again. But any corrections or punishment now will be futile. House Training For Full Time Workers This advice applies not just to full-time workers , but also if you must occasionally leave your puppy home alone for a few hours. Most importantly, follow all the advice in this guide so far for the times that you are home. Supervise them, correct any mistakes, set feeding and elimination schedules and everything else I have advised. First of all, if like me you use a crate, you simply cannot leave your puppy in the crate for many hours. This is very unfair on your puppy and it will destroy the crates power as a house training tool if they lose the instinct to keep it clean. Secondly, please do your best to enlist the help of a family member, friend, neighbor or hire a dog walker to periodically pop in to visit your puppy, take them to their bathroom spot, give them some social interaction and so on. But I also freely admit to using paper training myself occasionally, for the unavoidable times I have to leave my puppy home alone for a few hours. If you have to leave your puppy home alone for any reason, usually because you work, then paper training in your absence is the only thing you can do. You then have two options available to you: Buy and use an exercise pen, or confine your puppy to a single, puppy-proofed room. As they get used to pottying on paper, reduce the area covered one sheet at a time until just a small area remains covered. Once you know your puppy can hold their bladder for longer than they have to be left alone, remove the paper altogether. By 16 to 20 weeks, they should be able to last the 3 or 4 hours max they will be left alone and somebody comes to exercise them and allow a bathroom break. Between 8 and 12 weeks when weeing seems spontaneous , my puppy spends a fair bit of time in there and I paper train them to use puppy pads. Our kitchen and dining room was separated by an arch where a door used to be, with tiled flooring, making it ideal. I used a baby gate across the arch between the kitchen and dining room, and initially covered the dining area with paper, over time reducing it to just two sheets with the puppy pad holder on top. The dining area is completely empty, with no furniture, nothing in there. Skirting boards, the corners of furniture items, anything within reach is a potential target for teeth and claws. My girlfriend works from home, we crate trained and we had no problem finding house sitters in an evening if we needed one, so we all but had things covered. But this is something you need to be mindful of. Whatever the reason, there just WILL be times you cannot supervise your puppy. The essence of house training is to prevent mistakes and praise your puppy heavily when they potty in the right place. If you cannot watch your puppy, the chances of them making a mistake go through the roof. So even if you choose to use a constant supervision method exclusively, you will still need to confine your puppy sometimes to a paper covered area just in case. I mean literally none at all. One minute they are trotting along, the next they are leaking. No warning signs for you, not even any warning signs for them. I recommend setting up an exercise pen with the entire area papered, or do as I do and confine them to a room with the entire area papered. Use this time to paper train them, to get them used to weeing on paper and gradually reduce the area because you will use this method if you ever have to leave them home alone during the next 4 or 5 months. They will sniff, circle and so on as I mentioned before. At this point you can now move on to using your chosen house training method. Start encouraging them to potty in the right place from the minute you get them home. So the good news is, even at 8 weeks they will be able to last 4 or so hours and you will only need to wake once during the night. Also, make sure to take them to their bathroom spot right before you go to bed so they can empty themselves. Then set an alarm for 4 hours after their bed time when you must get up and take them to their bathroom spot. No excuses, you simply must do this. If you find your puppy has soiled in this time, you should set the alarm for half an hour earlier the next night 3. After a few days of not having a night-time accident, set your alarm for 15 minutes later and increase the time by 15 minutes for each successful night they do not have an accident. If you find they make a mistake one night before you wake, set the alarm back half an hour, make sure they stay dry a few days and then increase 15 minutes nightly again. And by using this schedule, you strike a good balance between a couple of inevitable accidents while stretching out the time at a good pace to lasting a full night. If they soil their crate more than once in any given week, you may have to progress slower add 15 minutes every 2 or 3 days , or perhaps sleep them in a papered exercise pen or their confinement room. Maintaining their instinct to keep the crate clean is of utmost importance. What To Do At The Bathroom Spot At Night When you take them out at night, say your chosen cue word, take them straight to their bathroom spot, praise them gently when they finish their business but do not reward them with anything else. The last thing you want is to teach your puppy that during the night is a time for play or food treats! This will come back to haunt you in a big way and result in noisy sleepless nights. You want your puppy to learn that night-time is for sleeping and for nothing else. Do nothing else. Some will be able to last the whole night without a potty break at 10 weeks rarely , and some may not be able to at 15 weeks also rarely. But certainly by 16 weeks old your puppy will be able to last a 7 hour night without needing to potty if you do not feed them for 3 hours or provide water for 2 hours before bed time and allow them to empty themselves right before you lay down for the night. No Progress? If you are feeding, exercising, training and playing with your puppy to a schedule, and when you look at your diary there seems to be no pattern to the times they need to potty, you should seek the advice of your vet. Common ailments such as gastroenteritis, urinary tract infection and health issues affecting internal organs and the genitalia can lead to a dog needing to potty much more frequently, often leading to eliminating in the house. Again, seek the advice of your family vet. You cannot successfully house train a puppy who is ill because their bodily functions will be too unpredictable. But 6 to 7 months is the ball park figure to aim for. A single mistake in the home can cause a major setback. A puppy may not make a mistake for 2 weeks, then you give them too much freedom, they make a mistake and all of a sudden they are regularly trying to potty in the home again. Also, some puppies just seem to forget everything for a few days now and then while growing up, even after being perfect for a couple of weeks. Just stick to your plan and they WILL eventually get it. Conclusion With house training, the fewer mistakes you allow your puppy to make and the more they are rewarded for doing the right thing, the quicker they will learn and the faster you will find success. Because of this, the more effort you put in and the more time you spend with your puppy at the beginning — supervising to correct mistakes and taking them to their bathroom spot many times each day — the better. But there are many other things you can do to help yourself and your puppy to find success. This guide has provided you with all the theory, strategies, tips and tricks you will ever need to successfully house train your puppy as quickly and efficiently as possible, with the fewest mistakes along the way. Please see the entire series linked to below:. Learn to spot the signs Never punish your Lab after an accident Use potty pads as a temporary indoor alternative Recognize excitement urination Be aware of submissive urination Allow more freedom as your puppy improves The ultimate aim of housebreaking your puppy is to prevent accidents. Control His Environment When potty training your puppy, the first thing to do is to control his environment. Use a long leash and attach your pup to your waist, even when inside the house. This allows you to look out for warning signs. Your pup will sleep in the crate, whereas the playpen provides extra space. Make sure to choose a pen with a door so that you can attach it to the crate, such as the Midwest Homes for Pets Folding Exercise Pen from Amazon. I also recommend the Midwest Homes for Pets icrate. Introduce the Crate Slowly introduce the crate when crate training your Lab over the first few days. When you let your pup out of his crate, immediately take him outside. When he is away from his own room, make sure you closely supervise him by keeping him attached to you on a long leash. Allow Frequent Potty Breaks Give your dog lots of opportunities to go outside. Create a Puppy Potty Schedule Dogs thrive off routines, including mealtimes, exercise, and potty training! You can set an alarm on your watch or phone to remind you to take your dog outside to his toilet area. Your pup will need to go first thing in the morning, after a meal or drinking, when he wakes from a nap, after playtimes, and before bedtime. Look for clues such as sniffing the floor or carpet, circling, restlessness, becoming overexcited, whining, or making towards the door. This includes whether you catch him in the act or if it happened a while ago. Moreso, the latter, as your dog will have no idea what he is being punished for! This is because dogs have a terrible short-term memory and will forget an event in two minutes. Instead, take him straight outside and reward him with a treat and lots of praise if he finishes off his business. Use Potty Pads as a Temporary Indoor Alternative Potty pads can be handy in extended periods of bad weather or if you live in a high-rise apartment and it takes longer to get outside. They can also be useful when traveling. This is when your Labrador gets so excited he will pee a small amount. It may happen when a family member or friend visits. To prevent this, allow your dog to eliminate before a visitor arrives and ensure visitors make their entrance low-key with no fuss, even ignoring the pup for a few minutes. Dogs will usually grow out of excitement pee by 18 months of age. Be Aware of Submissive Urination This is also common, but your puppy will outgrow it. It occurs when your Labrador wants to show submissive status to a person or another animal. He may squat and urinate during specific situations. To prevent it, avoid yelling and physical punishment, appear less intimidating when approaching, kneel down, and stroke under his chin instead of the top of his head. At first, keep his sleeping area small and then gradually increase the size slowly and methodically. Remove the divider in the crate or make the playpen area larger if you arent using a crate. You can use a crate to your advantage as it helps your pup develop quicker bowel and bladder control. To potty train a Lab puppy with a crate, use the crate as a tool. When the door is closed, your Lab will let you know he needs to eliminate by whining or scratching. He will learn self-control quicker. Crates are great when you cannot fully supervise your puppy and are an ideal way to control his environment. However, you still need to keep a close eye on him and spot the signs when he needs to go. Make it smaller using a divider. He will be less likely to eliminate in a smaller sleeping area. Check out my recommendations for the Best Dog Crates for Labradors and Playpens , including soft crates, travel crates, and furniture styles. Just be aware that it will probably take a little longer. Use dog gates to section off an area of the house. When away from his confinement, tether your pup to you with a long leash and establish a strict potty break schedule. If you choose dog gates, there are many styles you can choose to match your decor and configure how you like. This area should contain training pads or newspapers. Potty Training Puppies Between Months Old Most puppies are around eight weeks old when they leave their mother and littermates, but occasionally your pup may be a little older when you first bring him home. You may wonder how to potty train an older puppy and whether you should do anything different. Generally speaking, you should follow the same principles as training an 8-week-old Lab. However, a more mature puppy should be able to grasp housebreaking quicker. Labrador house training routines. We want them to learn to wait until they are outdoors before emptying their bladder or bowels. It is about maturity too. We need to understand that tiny puppies have immature bodies and are not physically capable of waiting very long. On your side There are two factors on your side in the potty training process. When it comes to bladder control, fortunately your puppy improves with every day that passes, so this factor does not work against you forever. The same applies to the fact that the puppy has been removed from his nest, he will soon learn to accept his new nest. The principles of puppy potty training The puppy is learning the principle of extending the nest area, which he keeps clean instinctively, to include your entire home. Punishment is counter-productive in this process as it teaches the puppy to avoid emptying himself in your presence. Rewards are helpful, but given the right routine, a puppy will naturally learn to be clean without them. The secret to successful house training lies in selecting targets that the puppy can achieve. If your puppy sometimes needs to wee every 15 minutes whilst he is awake and active, you will have to take him outside every 15 minutes. Restricted access Start small applies here too. Allow your puppy access only to a small part of your home. Increase the area he has access to, only when he is capable of keeping the current area clean. Just because he can. And because the sensation of a filling bladder is a new one. Your job is to teach him to wait a little longer. You do this by confining him for a short time, every time his bladder fills. You can confine him in his nest within a crate , or in your arms. He will be reluctant to wee in either location. If he wets himself, you have waited too long! It takes two You need to go outside with your puppy, and stay out there with him, each time he needs to wee. A tiny puppy is unlikely to empty himself on his own. This especially applies in cold or wet weather. Routines Matter When House Training a Labrador Retriever Based around these practical requirements you can create your own house training routine. For a puppy that needs to wee every half an hour, it will go something like this Take puppy outside to the toilet area and wait with him until he empties himself Bring him indoors and allow him free access to your kitchen for fifteen to twenty minutes Crate or cuddle the puppy until it is thirty minute since his last wee Take the puppy back out to the toilet area If at any time the puppy does not empty himself then confine him for another ten minutes and try again. As soon as he is regularly not needing to wee after thirty minutes you can extend the duration of free access to your kitchen. Provided you stick to these principles and strategies, the house training process, though quite intense for a short while, will pass smoothly. Supervise Your Puppy Your second job is to supervise or contain your puppy when his bladder is filling up. You can do this by crating him for a few minutes, or by cuddling him in your arms. I recommend the cuddle option for the first few days, that way you can introduce the crate gradually once he has settled into his new home. Either spend your first day together in the yard getting a feel for how frequently they pee. As you can see, there is some guesswork involved in house training a puppy, but not too much. The secrets of successful outdoor toilet trips Not wanting to pee outside is a common toilet training puppy problem and one we look at in more detail in this article. Keeping your puppy company is the key. You need to go outside with your puppy and wait there with him until he has done a wee. This may take longer than you would like, and you probably have better things to do than stand in your yard while your puppy chases butterflies or plays with your shoe laces. But stay outside you must, until he has done that wee. Coming Indoors Early If you must come indoors before your puppy has relieved himself, you need to supervise him very closely. Hold him in your arms — or put him in a small crate for a few minutes — before going back out to try again. It is a new puppy problem, and it will pass. And if you teach your puppy to pee on command, it will pass even quicker! Rewarding success If you put plenty of effort in, and take your puppy out a great deal in those first few days, he will quickly learn that the place you have allocated to him for potty purposes is the place to pee. You can praise him and give him a little treat for doing so. Have your treat on hand keep them next to your poop bags so you remember to grab both on the way out , and deliver it right after your puppy has completed their business. Rewarding his successes and ignoring his accidents is the quickest way of successfully communicating what you want, and quickly potty training your puppy. Stage 2 — Learning self control During stage 2 your puppy begins to develop some self control. This means he can wait a few minutes before emptying himself when his bladder starts to feel full. Keep an eye on your puppy for the tell tale signs that he needs to use the toilet: whimpering, whining or barking sniffing about, especially sniffing in circles! Using Your Crate If your puppy is now used to his crate, you can start using it stretch out the gaps between toilet trips. Accidents during stage 2 At some point during stage 2, many puppies will be able to last an hour or so between wees. This is when puppy parents often relax their vigilance, and their puppies start having accidents in the house again. Simply go back to shorter gaps between trips to the yard for a few days. Then start to space out those trips again, but more gradually this time. Stage 3 — Extending the clean zone This is where all your hard work starts to really pay off. Once your puppy is confidently and consistently toileting outdoors, and you can further stretch out the gaps between toilet breaks, and start to introduce your puppy to the rest of your home. Take it slowly, and if accidents occur, to go back to shorter gaps between trips outdoors for a few days. Bear in mind that your puppy may be used to peeing in the yard and not in the kitchen by now, but they might not automatically understand which rule applies to the lounge. Method 2: How to potty train a puppy indoors This section has a lot in common with how to potty train a puppy when you work. So follow method 2 if you need to know how to potty train a puppy in an apartment as well. And that means using pads. How to potty train a puppy on pads The simplest way to do this is to restrict the puppy to a smallish room with washable floors. Cover the floor with puppy pads to begin with, with their bed in one corner. How do you train a puppy to pee on a pad? With this arrangement in place, as long as your puppy leaves his bed to pee which his mom will have encouraged him to do , he will pee onto the pads. So over the next few days, reduce the area of the floor that is covered with puppy pads by half. You should find he begins to make an effort to pee and poop on the part of the floor that is covered — but it needs to be a sizeable part to get this good habit established. How to potty train a puppy fast using pads — reducing the toilet area By the end of the first week, you can begin to reduce the part of the floor that is covered with puppy pads right down to a small area, preferably near the back door. It is usually best to do this when you have some time booked off work — or during a long weekend when the weather is fine. But if you choose to crate train your puppy LINK alongside potty training him, the crate can be a useful aid for potty training too. Once your puppy thinks of the crate as their bed, they will be reluctant to soil in it. You Still Need To Watch Your Puppy Always watch puppies closely in their crate during potty training, and whisk them out to the right spot at the first sign they might need to relieve themselves. You can find out a lot more about crate training and the role it plays in rapid house training on this page. As well opportunities to use the toilet, Labrador puppies need company and socialisation while they are small. So, if you are going to go back to work you need to arrange someone to look after him, or to come in at intervals throughout the day to play with him and take him out. Here are some articles which will be of interest if you are thinking of getting a puppy and work full time:. Print Potty train your puppy quickly Housebreaking is one of the least desirable tasks when adding a new puppy to your family. It is never fun but consider it a necessary task. You will never regret having a dog that knows your home is not a bathroom. When to start housebreaking Housebreaking should begin the day you bring your puppy home from the breeder. It is important to establish quickly that there is a right and wrong place for your puppy to go potty. How long does it take to house train a lab puppy? I wish I could give a definitive answer for this, but the truth is that every puppy is different. Most puppies can be completely house broke by the time they are months. But assume there will be a lot of ups and downs through the process. Some puppies learn very quickly and rarely have an accident. Others take more time to make the connection. Here are some things you can do to help the process go smoothly. Have the right attitude! Keep your attitude in check to help this process go quickly and smoothly. Have patience! As already stated, potty training can take some time. It may happen, but it is unlikely. Instead, plan for a long haul and then you will be more patient and understanding when mishaps happen. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Step 1: Establish a place for your puppy to go potty To get started housebreaking your puppy, you must first establish a place where it is okay for your puppy to do his business. Find a place outside that is not too far from your home, but an area where you are not worried about killing the grass or trampling plants that are important to you. Consider this carefully, because once your puppy starts going potty in this area it will be exceedingly difficult to move or change the area. Once the scent is there, it is natural for dogs to continue going potty in the same area over and over. Do I have to potty train outside? In some areas of the country, winters can be very cold. Some new puppy owners wonder if it is too cold for their Labrador puppy to go outside to potty train during these times. The answer is no. Most Labs can easily be outside for a few minutes even during the coldest nights to go potty. A pee pad is a disposable, leak proof pad that is scented to attract your dog and encourage going potty on them. We highly discourage using pee pads because in the long run it is confusing to your dog. If you spend time teaching your puppy to NOT go potty inside your home and then flip-flop and begin letting them go inside your home on a pee pad, your dog will be confused. Besides, eventually you must retrain them to going outside, so the best policy is to never start letting inside be an option. Step 2: Establish a routine and schedule for your puppy Establishing a routine is the single most important step for housebreaking. The more consistent you are, the faster your puppy will learn to go outside for potty. This time will increase rapidly over the next few weeks, but that first week is going to take a lot of time and energy on your part to consistently let your puppy out on a schedule. To make being consistent easier, consider this: Set a timer When housebreaking puppies, we find that setting a timer is helpful. An hour flies by and you hardly realize it. For the first few days at least, set a timer and let your puppy out hourly, especially if your puppy is not in a crate. We will discuss that more in a bit. Timing is everything There are other times when you need to let your puppy outside. Immediately after eating or drinking your puppy should go outside. Eating and drinking will trigger a need to go potty, so to avoid accidents, take your puppy out every time they eat or drink. And if they drink a lot of water, you may have to take them out several times before they are back on schedule. Anything you can do to make going potty a routine will help your dog learn and associate that going outside is where I need to go to go potty. Use a command I know this sounds crazy but using a command can help your dog form an association between the command and going potty. At first this is meaningless to the puppy. And you cannot discipline your puppy for a potty accident in the house that you never saw happen. The solution for this is never let your puppy go unsupervised. This can be exhausting, that is why we suggest using a crate to help. The stern words must be said during the accident or immediately after to have any effect. Using a crate to house train your puppy First, while your puppy may not love his crate right away, if properly introduced and used consistently, Labs usually come to love their crates. As den animals, dogs will view their crate as a den where they can go to sleep or get away from the business of the home. Learn more about crate training your Labrador puppy here. When using a crate to housetrain your puppy, you first want to make sure that you have a very small crate. One that is just a little bigger than your puppy. This is particularly important because you do not want your puppy to be able to move around much in the crate. If they can move around, they can and often will go potty in the crate. So, start with a very small crate and get bigger crates as the puppy grows. Whatever you choose to use to block off the larger area, make sure that it is not something your puppy can chew on or ingest. You will still need to find a way to gradually increase the area that the puppy has access to, so I just find the multiple crate solution easier. You should still set a timer and take your puppy out on a regular basis, and you will want to schedule some time each day for the puppy to run around the house and play while supervised. Step 4: Using praise to speed the house breaking process You can help your puppy more quickly understand that going potty outside is the right thing to do by giving your puppy well-timed praise. But the praise must be well-timed. You should give the praise while your puppy is going potty outside or immediately after. Timing is very important! Lots of people get upset when the dog goes inside but fail to praise when the dog does the right thing. Not all dogs are the same. Some puppies will whine just before they go potty in the house, or whine at the door when they need to go. Some will hide somewhere you cannot see them and do their business there. Still others may scratch at the door. How long can a puppy hold it overnight? With young puppies, weeks old, you will need to get up several times a night to let them out. It can be helpful to limit the amount of water your puppy has access to close to bedtime. We usually aim for every 3 hours and then steadily increase the time as they get older. But each puppy is different. Final thoughts on how to house train your Labrador puppy Remember that housebreaking is a process. It rarely follows a straight line and more often there will periods of success and occasional mishaps. Stick with it and before long your puppy will understand that going potty in the house is not okay. Until next time, happy retrieving. How to housebreak your Labrador puppy.