how to train a german shepherd puppy not to bite

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, and I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links. Take back control of their behavior using these quick and easy solutions to stop German Shepherd biting that actually works. Even better, have a set of toys that are only used when you want to engage in play with your puppy. Hide these toys in a basket or box after your game of play. This makes them extra special. They are under your control and your dog must give them back to you. Special toys are more fun for your pup to bite than you. When in doubt of what special toy your dog likes, choose from this specially-curated list of what toys German Shepherds love for interactive toy ideas to keep your dog entertained. Say OUCH! When your pup bites you, say OUCH firmly. This simple technique catches the attention of many puppies when done correctly and can train a German Shepherd puppy to not bite you. You could also make a YIP sound instead, just like their little brother and sisters would make a yipping noise when playing too rough. If they continue to bite and nip, say OUCH again and then get up immediately and leave the room for a few moments. You may return to play but keep repeating this simple process until they learn to keep their teeth on their toys. This will only encourage them to continue their unwanted behavior. Use Puppy-Safe Partition Gates Only use pet-safe partition gates that are high enough to prevent your German Shepherd from jumping over. If your pup bites you aggressively when you and your family walk past you, then use an exercise pen or this German Shepherd-sized pet safe partition gate to contain them. Only use pet-safe partition gates that are high enough to prevent and discourage your German Shepherd from jumping over to continue to try and bite you. Use the items during busy times in your home to keep your dog calm and out of areas that might increase their excitement and biting and nipping you. Puppies tend to bite and chew when their teeth are coming in. They do this to relieve the pain and help soothe themselves. Freeze a durable large Kong with their favorite treats and kibble and have them on hand for times when your dog is acting out and biting you. Give them a Kong to gnaw on and bring icy relief to their gums. Plus, chewing has been shown to help relax and calm dogs. Redirections are actions that keep your pup from engaging in unwanted behavior by showing them appropriate behavior. For example: When your dog nips you, find their teething toy to bite instead. When your dog jumps on you to bite your hands or ankles, look around for a Kong to give to them to bite on. Squeaky toys like this toy that continues to squeak , even after a puncture, are ideal to distract your dog from your hand to another object. These toys differ from their special toys mentioned above because these redirection toys are ones you leave out for your pup to chew most of the time. So, be sure to have them nearby! Use Daily Leadership Skills How many times a day do you teach your German Shepherd to listen to you and offer them leadership? Use daily interactions as an effective way of teaching your dog about leadership. Have them sit before you take them for a walk or exiting a door. Ignore them altogether. Only offer them interaction and come back to them when they show you calming behaviors. Our dogs love our attention. And German Shepherds crave it! An overfed dog that is under-exercised may display destructive behaviors because of boredom and lack of energy needs being met. Get up off the couch and go outside for a walk and sniff party. Low impact activities and free-running off-leash running are best. Choose from a list of fun and gentle, age-appropriate German Shepherd puppy exercises to keep your pup healthy and better behaved. Stop roughhousing with your dog before it frustrates them. Use appropriate, puppy-safe toys instead of play sessions. This way, your pup can bite the toy instead of your fingers, hands, or arms. You may also stress out your GSD by engaging them rough of play. For your pup to either keep up with the play or stop you from too rough play, they may bite you! From day one, avoid play that involves mouthing or teeth on the skin. Use toys to provide your dog a way they can bite to release their energy… Without nipping you! And this game is great because it teaches your dog a necessary life skill. Practice the game: multiple times a day for 2 to 3 minutes at a time Your pup learns impulse control during the game and this transfers over to their ability to stop themselves from biting you. Read below for the easy-to-follow directions. If your dog gets too worked up and then bites, then teach them this Rev Up and Cool Down game. After a few running steps and before your pup gets too excited, stop running and walk slowly. Keep moving slowly until your dog also slows down. When you see them slow down, take a few more steps calmly and peacefully. Continue with steps one through three. Each time your dog should slow down sooner and quicker. If your puppy knows any of these basic German Shepherd commands , incorporate those commands to make the training more interesting and fun. The link above will also easily explain how to teach over ten commands! The point of the Rev Up and Cool Down game is to teach them to settle and stay calm without nipping and biting you. You need to keep your pup exercised, mentally stimulated, and show them what calming behavior is. Be fair and understanding. A Shepherd is a joy to own when given the direction they desire and the commitment they need. Found this helpful? Share it! She has a Bachelor of Science degree, with Honors, and has been training dogs for over a decade. Related Posts. Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, and I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links. Knowing how to discipline a German Shepherd for biting and nipping will not only help save your hands and legs from tiny razor-sharp teeth… But teaching your GSD puppy to stop biting can also help you with valuable training skills! How do you discipline a German Shepherd for biting and nipping? Follow these steps to discipline your German Shepherd for biting or nipping you. If they still continue to bite and nip, calmly get up and walk away to let them calm down. You can also get your puppy to stop biting by working on their impulse control. Never use physical punishment, yell at your dog, or cause them to fear you. Instead, use reward-based training to teach your GSD what behavior you want them to do instead. There is also extra information you need to know about disciplining your German Shepherd for biting, such as: Why your puppy bites and nips you How to avoid biting and nipping in the first place And what not to do! You might find it cute that your fuzzy little German Shepherd puppy biting your hand or ankles is cute but… Think again! Imagine your dog all grown up as a nearly 90 to pound athletic powerhouse — full of large, adult-size teeth. Some people incorrectly assume that discipline means punishment. This is your essential guide to learn how to discipline your German Shepherd for biting and nipping. Why is my German Shepherd puppy biting and nipping? Is your sweet puppy biting and nipping you all of a sudden? Read below to find out why. When my adorable German Shepherd puppy came home to me her antics were so much fun! I loved to move the toys to play her favorite games and keep her entertained. But, my hands looked like I had accidentally adopted a baby tiger after our playtimes! There were scratches, puncture wounds, and she could even draw blood! German Shepherd puppies love to play and do so by barking, play growling, and nipping their little brothers and sisters. But now, you and your family are the littermates! Puppies quickly learn that if they bite too hard their littermates stop the play, and the fun ends. This is a valuable life lesson for living with people and families. And even studies show that removing a German Shepherd puppy before they are 8-weeks-old could negatively affect their behavior as adults source. Your new German Shepherd must continue to learn bite inhibition skills when you first bring them home. Is yours? German Shepherds get their razor-sharp baby teeth around 2-weeks-old. The baby teeth have usually all grown in by 6 to 7 weeks of age. So, when your pup comes home, around 8-weeks of age to live with you, all 28 of their baby teeth are ready for nipping and biting. When the adult teeth grow in they can irritate the gums and cause your dog discomfort. This leads to your pup looking for things to chew to help soothe their teething pains. You might find tiny teeth on your carpet or on the ground, but most of the baby teeth are swallowed by your pup. Chewing is a natural way to help the pain go away and is very normal. During these times a frozen Kong filled with a mix of treats helps to cool the inflamed gums and soothe their aches. Keep a few frozen Kongs on hand during the teething stage to offer your German Shepherd puppy to stop them from chewing and biting everything in sight! Your German Shepherd comes from a long line of working dogs that were originally bred to herd sheep. These instincts still remain with your dog to this day. German Shepherds bite and nip your ankles due to this natural herding ability and powerful prey drive. This need to herd is in their genes and, unfortunately, your ankles will have to do when there are no sheep to round up! Absence or Lack of Mental Stimulation A bored, mentally understimulated German Shepherd might act out and need brain games. German Shepherds, even puppies, are highly intelligent dogs with a never-ending supply of stamina. Mental stimulation exhausts their minds and bodies! A pup that lacks proper mental stimulation finds themselves looking for ways to keep their brains busy, which generally means getting into trouble. Too Tired or Lack of Sleep A wild German Shepherd probably needs a long nap to help them become their sweet self again. Did you know that puppies sleep 18 to 20 hours a day source? A German Shepherd puppy who is nipping and biting a lot might just be cranky from lack of sleep, and not willfully acting out. Begin teaching them by using body language, hand signals, voice commands, and showing them the right behaviors you want from them. If they continue aggressively biting you, place them in a short time out. Always use positive training and avoid harsh punishment and corrections. You can practice these techniques by following the steps below for disciplining your German Shepherd for biting. Teach your German Shepherd bite inhibition during play. You can teach your German Shepherd bite inhibition to help deter their nipping! There might come a time when your dog is in fear, pain, or discomfort and they put their mouth on you. If your German Shepherd has learned bite inhibition during their play, then they understand to not bite down hard and avoid injuring your skin. You can play these fun games with your German Shepherd while teaching them to not bite you. Slowly move your hand or leg away from them. Try to relax your hand and body so that your puppy is less interested in holding on with their teeth. Stop all play and interaction for five seconds. Then resume activity, but remember no interaction means no talking, no eye contact, and no petting. Sometimes, those sharp puppy teeth are too painful or break the skin! Show your puppy that biting or nipping ends the play. If your German Shepherd is aggressively biting you, show them that this behavior ends the play. But hard bites that draw blood or break your skin mean no more playtime. How to show your German Shepherd that biting and nipping ends play If your dog hurts you painfully during play, quietly and calmly turn away and stand up. Walk away from your puppy, preferably into another room of the house. Leaving play when your GSD becomes too rough is a way to calm them by withdrawing your attention from their rough behavior. Place them in a short time out for continued biting. Sometimes, a short time-out is required for hard nipping and biting. There will be times when your puppy is acting out so badly you might need to place them in a short time out. Time outs are not meant to be punishment, but a moment of calm. Do NOT let them become worked up or stressed if your separation is too much for them. Give your German Shepherd the right things to chew. Help your German Shepherd stop biting you by giving them something else to chew on. You already know your German Shepherd is biting you, so anticipate the biting behavior and substitute a toy for your hand or ankles. Even better… Keep a few small toys in your pocket to offer them as they race around the house. What toys do German Shepherds like to bite and chew? The key to using this toy is to roll it away from yourself when your puppy is aggressively nipping and biting you. Read this hand-picked content… just for you! Instead of letting your dog chew on whatever they want, find appropriate toys to reduce their boredom and give them a place to put their teeth. Redirect biting ankles and legs by using a food lure. A tasty treat comes in handy when your GSD bites at your legs and ankles. Your legs and feet are also enticing since they move and change directions frequently. When your German Shepherd bites your ankles or feet, calmly take a treat out of your pocket and hold the treat near the side of your leg. This disciplining technique also has the added benefit of teaching your dog the first steps of walking nicely on a leash with you. Train a gentle mouth when taking food from your hand. Teach your dog that only a gentle mouth gets its reward. Training your German Shepherd to take treats or kibble with a gentle mouth is extremely easy. Teaching your GSD puppy what is acceptable pressure with their mouth helps to avoid their sharp teeth from damaging your skin or tearing your clothes accidentally. Training a soft mouth with your German Shepherd When feeding your dog a treat, keep the treat pinches between your fingers slightly. This is so your puppy has to lick or nibble at the treat to get it. Instead, pull your hand back slowly. Now, offer your puppy the treat again. When he switches to just licking or using a soft mouth to nibble the treat out release the treat. Withdraw your hand. Wait a few seconds before offering your hand with the treat again. Practice teaching a gentle mouth at least 3 to 5 times daily in short sessions only about 2 to 3 minutes long. Pay attention to the types of items your German Shepherd prefers to pick up and chew. Is it something hard? Then, replace it with a hard, tough chew toy. Is the item soft? Try replacing the item with a furry toy instead. If you want a rock-solid leave it, then use this guide to train your German Shepherd the leave it command. Enroll them in a training class. A structured training class helps your German Shepherd learn to listen to you. But, think about this… Using an online program helps give you confidence in your skills as a trainer and will help train your little play biter to offer more polite responses in the future. German Shepherd puppies , like all puppies, go through a teething phase, and their biting behavior can continue until they are around 4 to 6 months old when their adult teeth have fully grown in. But how do you get German Shepherd puppies to stop biting, and when should you seek out more help? We dive into everything that you need to know here. German Shepherds are herding dogs, and as such, they love to go after anything that moves. This could be cats, kids, hands, fingers, or just about anything else. The more they get away with it, the more acceptable the behavior seems in the future. Addressing the problem early and consistently is vital. Just like babies need something to chew on when their new teeth are coming in, your German Shepherd needs something too! First, it stops when they get their adult teeth. Second, if you try to redirect them to something that they can chew on, most German Shepherd puppies are receptive. At this time, they should have all their adult teeth, which means no more teething to worry about. But at least you know the root of the problem and can start implementing the necessary strategies to address it. Instead, get them a few chew toys, bones, and other acceptable things to chew on as they teethe. You can also throw a few of these toys in the fridge or freezer to cool them down, and this will offer even more relief for your pup when they need it! While there are plenty of techniques to try, we recommend redirection and positive reinforcement. The method is simple. If and when they start chewing on the toy or other appropriate object, give them praise. German Shepherds love to please their owners, so this is typically an effective way to train your puppy. Therefore, you should have levels of concern. If they are still chewing and nipping at the 9-month mark, you should seek obedience training or talk to a vet to see what you can do. So, get on it early and often, and stick with it! Because with just a little work and dedication you can get your German Shepherd puppy to stop biting in no time. Check Price on Amazon 4. Use Positive Reinforcement Positive reinforcement means giving something pleasant to your German Shepherd when they perform what you want them to do so that they learn to associate the correct behavior with the reward. The more this is repeated, they will remember and do it more often. The reward is a reinforcing motivation. In the above example of redirecting your GSDs biting to a chew toy, once he accepts the toy and starts to chew or play with it, you then offer lots of enthusiastic verbal praise and reward with a treat. Again, timing is important, and this must be done instantly so that your German Shepherd will recognize or associate his behavior with the correct action. You can give other rewards, but these may be more suited to older pups, adolescent dogs, or adults. Alternatives could be giving them a special toy, playing their favorite game, such as fetch, or taking them on their favorite walk. Always use lots of verbal praise in parallel to the reward you choose. You will, no doubt, soon get to learn where your dog prefers to be pet. Go here for more guidance on where to pet your German Shepherd. This is also useful when your German Shepherd starts to put his mouth around your possessions or furniture, ready to have a good gnaw! Using a time-out can effectively discipline a German Shepherd for biting and other undesirable behaviors. A great way to do this is to grab their collar, push their bum down, and make them sit. The idea is that your German Shepherd will quickly learn to associate that the fun stops when his nipping starts! As always, timing is critical, so your pup learns what he has done wrong at the precise moment. For very young puppies, you should only put them in time-out for a few seconds, between 7 and 10, and no longer than 30 seconds. At the end of the time-out, redirect your pup back to play and use lots of verbal praise or offer a training treat for good onward behavior. You must time the click at the exact moment your pet is doing what you want to reinforce. If you quickly reward your dog with a positive experience such as a treat, he will soon learn to associate the noise of the click with great things. The idea is that you condition your German Shepherd so that when he hears the sound of the clicker, he knows he has done something to please you. In the case of puppy biting, we are simply rewarding the puppy for choosing not to bite. You can achieve this by using the distraction technique described above. When the puppy makes the right choice and starts to bite on his chew toy, he hears the click and gets his treat. Look out for other symptoms such as drooling more than usual, bad breath, loss of appetite, or sneezing. If you are consistent and patient with your methods, you will achieve great results. Be firm but fair, which also helps to strengthen the loving bond between you and your dog. It leads to fear, avoidance, hurt feelings, guilt, stress, anxiety, and lack of trust. Owners should use positive reinforcement methods as much as possible. In another year-long study by the University of Pennsylvania, researchers found that using confrontational or aversive methods to teach aggressive dogs did not work. The dogs continued to be aggressive until the training methods were changed. The same study found that punishing techniques and dominance-based training, such as hitting or kicking, growling, or yelling at your dog, can cause aggression, as stated by Meghan E. An even more recent study in companion dogs suggests that using even mild punishments like yelling and leash-jerking can stress dogs out more than dogs taught using reward-based training. This stress causes negative consequences and poorer welfare. Alpha rolling is a controversial and outdated technique that physically puts your dog on his back or side in a submissive position to show that you are dominant or the Alpha. This old-fashioned technique is a form of positive punishment and was often used to house-train pups. Many people will have used this method decades ago without success, but at the time, they believed it was the right thing to do. For a positive punishment to work, the problem is that it has to be administered during or immediately after the act within 2 -3 seconds ; otherwise, the dog will not make the connection. Sometimes puppies naturally get over-excited and overtired. When this happens, instead of using the crate as a punishment, lure him into the crate with a treat offering lots of praise and letting him go down for a nap. If you feel sorry for your German Shepherd after disciplining him, you must never reward him out of guilt. Again, this only confuses your dog. Remember to be firm but fair. While a muzzle can prevent your dog from biting, it is not a solution to the underlying behavior issue. Muzzling your German Shepherd without addressing the root cause of their biting can lead to further behavioral problems and may even make the situation worse. Is it ever too late to discipline a German Shepherd for biting? It is never too late to discipline a German Shepherd for biting, but it may take more time and effort to modify their behavior if the biting has become a habit. Start with identifying the root cause and then take the guidance of an expert to set boundaries and train better to eradicate unwanted behavior. Final Thoughts Puppy biting is natural in all dogs. However, you now know the importance of disciplining your German Shepherd as soon as he starts to exhibit biting, nipping, and chewing behavior and how to do it. This is especially important with the German Shepherd breed as they quickly grow into big strong dogs. That could end in disaster for all concerned. No matter what you are teaching your German Shepherd, try to train him when young; 8 weeks old is a great time to start. Make sure you properly socialize him and give him lots of exercise and training will be much easier. Related Posts You May Like:. Puppies Have you ever reached down to play with a German Shepherd puppy, only to have that adorable little fur-ball pierce your skin with its razor-sharp puppy teeth? When I brought Allie into the family, she was fully in the German Shepherd puppy biting phase — so that first month was tough! Unfortunately, biting is an inevitable phase of puppyhood — it comes with the territory when you decide to be a puppy parent. My goal with this guide is to get you through the biting stage with as few battle scars as possible. Why do German Shepherd Puppies Bite? Up until this time, your puppy was with its littermates, and playtime meant lots of mouthy, nipping fun. Accordingly, this is the only way your GSD knows how to play! A German Shepherd puppy also uses their mouths to explore different things like toys — or hands, ankles, furniture… pretty much anything they can get their mouth around. Your puppy could also be teething, which can increase their mouthy behavior. Just be patient as you work through the German Shepherd puppy biting phase — give your pup time to learn to be gentle when playing or seeking your attention. Nothing is worse than an ankle-biter! I was very lucky not to have this problem with Allie. Why does your German Shepherd puppy target the ankles? Because your GSD is a working dog trying to do its job — herd you around the house like livestock. German Shepherds were originally bred for herding flocks of sheep. Your furry pal may also think heel nipping is just a really fun game. Using a toy as a distraction and keeping your pup active will help nip ankle nipping in the bud! Because she was too busy biting hands! There are lots of reasons why a pup may decide to start biting your hands. For one, good things treats, toys, love, attention come from hands. Also, hands are almost like swinging toys from the perspective of a playful pup — too enticing to pass up! How to Discourage Biting Behavior While the German Shepherd puppy biting phase is a rite of passage, there are some ways you can discourage bad biting behavior without harsh discipline. This is one of the most effective ways to teach your German Shepherd bite inhibition — or how to be gentle with her teeth. Think about when your pup was rolling and playing with their brothers and sisters — if your GSD was too rough, their sibling would let out a yelp. This trick worked great with Allie! Just make sure to be consistent until your pup gets the idea and learns to master the power of her jaws. Puppies will be puppies! Redirect the biting to an appropriate toy. For example, when your fuzzy friend latches onto your ankles, give a little puppy-like yelp, and then whip out a toy and encourage your dog to chew on that instead. Tug-of-war is the perfect game for the puppy biting phase. Socialize your puppy as much as possible. Other dogs are great at teaching your puppy that they playing too rough and biting too hard. Try a deterrent to prevent your dog from chewing or biting. If all else fails, there are lots of products designed to deter your dog from bad biting behavior. How do they work? Well, they taste awful. But if used correctly, they can definitely work. This is still attention — your puppy bites, your puppy gets attention. Otherwise, your pup may see this as a fun new game, kind of like tug-of-war but with your hands or feet as the toy. You want your furball to love playing with you! The goal here is to encourage your German Shepherd to play as much as ever but to play gently. As a pup, Allie thought she should greet everyone by jumping in their face and nipping — kind of like a kiss hello, but with teeth. And as she got bigger, it was harder to control. But trust me, it got old quickly. Be proactive. If I knew someone was coming over, I would put Allie in another room or in her crate. Once our visitor was in the house and the initial excitement had passed, I would let her out. By keeping her from greeting people right when they walked through the door, I could minimize her overzealous behavior. This is a simple command that teaches your dog to stay in her place until you give a release command. This is another way to allow the initial excitement to pass and your German Shepherd to calm down a bit before greeting anyone. Redirect attention to a toy like I talked about earlier. Fold your arms and turn away. Keep turning until your GSD stops jumping, then praise them and use a treat as a reward. What to Do If Biting Becomes Aggressive Although puppy mouthing is normal, there can be cases where biting can signal problems and possibly even aggression. Look for physical differences in your pup. If your puppy is having a moment of aggression, their body may stiffen when snarling, and bites will typically be more painful than during regular play. Also, if your GSD puppy is biting out of fear or frustration, you may need to take action. These types of behavior are not something your pup will just grow out of. While the biting phase will inevitably end, you may find yourself asking the infamous question — when do German Shepherds calm down!? I asked myself and our vet this question more than once! It honestly just depends. Sure, she had her calm moments thanks in part to her training , but she was still very hyper especially in more excitable moments. The type of German Shepherd dog is yet another variable that plays a role in its energy levels. So when do German Shepherds calm down? It really depends on your individual German Shepherd. Final Thoughts Unfortunately, the German Shepherd puppy biting phase is something all GSD puppy owners will go through, but it will pass. Try the tips above to help keep your sanity during this phase. Or any tips to help the rest of us? Please share! Since puppies lack the dexterity that you and I have, they use their mouths to explore the world around them. By understanding the behavior of biting itself, you can begin to see just how normal biting is in German Shepherd puppies. Just because biting is a normal behavior in a puppy does not mean we should tolerate it or promote it. Since biting is a form of communication for German Shepherd puppies, there are many things our puppies could be trying to say! So why do Shepherd pups bite? Puppies often communicate with their siblings through biting and pawing, especially when they are trying to incite a play session. Your pup may gnaw on your hand as if it were a chew toy, especially when you are a moving target. Puppies play and bite their siblings from the moment they are old enough to do so. This is why the behavior is so common, and why our Shepherd pupswill need to learn how to transition to playing with appropriate chewing options. Not only are our hands and feet tempting enough, but even more so when a puppy has a high prey drive. A prey drive is an ingrained need to chase after moving objects, whether it is appropriate or not. A swinging hand as we walk by can be extremely tempting for a growing pup, causing them to jump up and nip. If it seems like your Shepherd puppy is always biting you when you are in motion, it may be due to their high prey drive! They Are Curious As we mentioned above, German Shepherd puppies use their mouth to explore the world around them. Biting can help them examine and understand an object, and our hands and feet can fall into that category as well! If you catch your puppy gnawing on everything around your home, it may be their curiosity getting the best of them! A dog quickly learns what behavior gets a reaction, causing them to do it over and over again. Even if their bites result in a negative reaction from you, it still counts as attention. They Are Teething Similar to teething babies, a German Shepherd puppy experiences teething pain as well. If your Shepherd pup seems to find relief when chewing on objects, they may be biting you due to teething discomfort. They Are Herding You If your German Shepherd puppy is constantly biting at your ankles, they may be displaying some herding behaviors. German Shepherds are ingrained with a need to work, especially in dogs with a working bloodline. If your German Shepherd is always nipping at your feet, running to your side when you are moving, or showing signs of anxiety or frustration when you are moving around your home; it may be herding behavior. So how can you stop this normal puppy behavior? Redirect The Behavior One of the most effective ways to stop your German Shepherd puppy from biting is by redirecting the behavior. An effective distraction is a wonderful way to end the behavior without punishment, and show them how much fun the alternative to biting can be. The next time your Shepherd pup is displaying undesirable nipping, try to pull out their favorite toy. Since this will need to be a toy that your dog enjoys, be sure to offer them the option that they find most exciting. This can be a Kong toy , rope, bone, or any other chewing option that your dog loves. By doing this each time your Shepherd puppy begins to bite you, they will begin to understand that they would much rather play with an acceptable chew option. Having a variety of chew toys can alleviate their need to bite our hands and feet, and offer them the relief they seek in this uncomfortable transition. There are so many toys created for teething puppies, that it should be easy to fill your home with plenty of appropriate options. One of our favorite chew toys is the Kong Teething Binkie. Any attention can validate the behavior, causing them to make it a habit. This shows them that the behavior is unacceptable, and does not involve any harmful negative reinforcement. Our attention is important to a puppy, and they do not want to be ignored. By showing them that biting will only result in us pulling away, they will learn to ditch the undesirable behavior. Interrupt The Behavior Sometimes a Shepherd puppy needs a sharp and sudden sound to pull them out of a bad habit. By giving a quick interrupter cue ouch, yip, eek , you can pull your puppy away from the action and gain their attention. Because of this, it is so important to offer plenty of mental and physical activities throughout your home. For example, if your puppy nips at strangers each time they walk in the door, it may be best to limit their time around the guest and send them to a separate play area. Once they begin to understand that biting is unacceptable, you can refrain from using their separate play area as often. Similar to what we discussed above about being proactive, a separate play area can help them calm down and collect themselves. Once your German Shepherd puppy begins to mature and understand that biting is unacceptable, they should require less time away. Just as there are effective methods in canine training, there are counterproductive actions as well. Do Not Hit Or Yell Since biting is a normal behavior that puppies must learn to grow out of, it is not productive to hit or yell at your puppy when they bite. Doing this can show them from a young age that interaction with you results in something negative, and can hinder your training process. By using other distractions and training methods when they bite, you can turn every bite into a learning experience for your pup! This can seem like a fun game to your pup, and can actually encourage the behavior. Try your best to go limp when they bite you, and pull your attention away from the pup. By doing this, you show them that this behavior does not offer them any extra fun. Extra attention can validate their undesirable behavior, making it challenging to break. Try your best to refrain from reacting to a bite outside of your interrupter cue, and pull your attention away from your furry friend afterward. Biting is a normal behavior in puppies of all kinds. Puppies begin to bite their siblings from the moment they can move, and will continue this behavior until they learn otherwise. A biting German Shepherd puppy is to be expected, and should not result in any discouragement on your part. As long as you are following the tips we mentioned above, your puppy should shy away from this behavior in no time! Biting in puppies is not usually a sign of aggression. Mild biting is usually a form of play, and should be easily corrected. However, there are some rare cases where biting in German Shepherd puppies is a sign of something more. If your pup is displaying any snarling, growling, ears pinned back, stiff posture, or any other signs of canine aggression, your pup may be biting in reaction to fear or pain. If you are unable to make any progress within a month of implementing the tips we discussed above, it may be time to contact a dog trainer. A trainer can not only help your pup refrain from biting, but offer other obedience training as well. Final Thoughts As you can see, biting is a normal behavior for our beloved German Shepherd puppies. Be sure to review the tips we discussed above on proper canine training, and you can banish puppy biting for good! Hopefully, we will have the answers to all of your questions in this guide. But, all that cuteness quickly disappears when the biting phase starts. Puppy biting is normal in all breeds, including the German Shepherd. And, luckily, we have some great tips and tricks to minimize the painful biting period. In fact, it could have a number of causes. Here are a few of the most common reasons, in a little more detail. Teething One reason why puppies of all breeds may bite is teething. This stage often starts at around 3 or 4 months of age — only a few weeks after your puppy will arrive at their new home. Luckily, it only takes a few months for your puppy to have their full set of adult teeth. So, biting from teething is not permanent. If your puppy is biting or chewing because of teething, you may notice other symptoms like drooling, irritability, and going off their food. Boredom or Getting Attention Bored puppies may learn that biting gets some fun responses from you! Just like barking can. If your puppy has learnt that they can get some attention from you when they bite, they may do it to alleviate boredom. This can explain why puppies concentrate most of their biting on one family member — the person who gives the most fun response. Natural Play Biting is a natural part of puppy play — as much as some owners might not want to hear it! German Shepherd puppies, just like any other breed, will bite whilst they are playing with you or with other dogs. If this behavior continues into adulthood, the biting can be more problematic. Responding to Rough Play Some people like to play with German Shepherd puppies in quite a rough manner. This can include pushing them, or rolling them over. Behaviors like this can make puppies very excitable, and encourage biting during play. Encourage calm play between your family members or friends and your puppy. Herding Instincts The German Shepherd breed has a history as a herding dog. The creator of the breed, Captain Max von Stephanitz, bred the German Shepherd in an attempt to create the ultimate all-round herding breed. This was all the way back in the late s. Although the history of the breed has changed over time, from herding to working dog, their origins remain the same. Many herding dogs are prone to natural chase instincts. They may chase small children or other animals — particularly those that are making lots of noise. And, these herding behaviors can include nipping at heels. Once again, your behavior can minimize biting from this cause. Exploration Another common explanation for young German Shepherd biting is their natural curiosity. And, they may do this partly with their mouths. What you really want to know is, when will it stop? However, you can minimize the period by making a few easy changes to your behavior when biting occurs. The best ways to stop puppy biting and minimize the biting period are training and prevention. This means training your puppy to be gentle with you and other people, and taking away opportunities for your excited puppy to bite humans. You may need to go as far as to completely separate your GSD puppy from small children and people who insist on rough play with puppies. We know that this can only encourage biting. Remove Yourself Calmly If your puppy starts to bite you, during play or any other time, the best solution is to calmly and quietly remove yourself. You can use tools like baby gates to keep your German Shepherd in a puppy-safe room. In fact — your puppy will learn that biting during play or cuddles only results in you leaving, and them ending up on their own! Not only will this help to show your puppy that biting is not an acceptable part of playtime, but it can also help your own sanity to remove yourself from those sharp teeth occasionally. Think About Clothing You should also think about the type of clothing you wear around your puppy. Loose, hanging clothing can be appealing to your puppy, and provide something easy to grip on with their sharp teeth. Wear tight fitting clothing to minimize the number of things your puppy can bite at. Use Distractions If you, or young children in your household, are keen to pet your puppy without being bitten, you should make the most of distractions like treats or toys. You can hold a chew for your puppy to keep their attention and mouth distracted whilst someone pets them! Often, puppy owners only think about biting whilst their puppy is actively gnawing on them. One method is to reward them with treats when you are petting them and they are not biting you. Another is to reward them for calm behavior around the house. This way they learn that acting calmly and letting you touch them without biting will earn them good things! One popular method to stop puppy biting is to squeal, squeak, growl, or make another loud noise. Some people claim that this method replicates natural puppy play and tells your GSD when they are being too rough. For some owners, this may work. If this is the case, making a noise when your puppy bites will act as a reward, and encourage your German Shepherd puppy to bite you even more. This is one reason why puppies biting children is so common. Many children will make lots of noise, especially if a puppy bites them, which can lead to further nipping. This is similar to the method above, if used alone. This is why training has to be done in small stages — first you must teach the puppy what action you want, and then you can give the action a name, or command. Punishment Methods The best methods to stop your puppy from biting involve positive rewards for the behaviors you want. Studies on dog training and behavior have shown that punishment based methods are often associated with an increase of problematic behaviors. Punishing your puppy for biting can lead to distrust and fear from your puppy. The causes of puppy biting that we looked at earlier in this guide apply to all GSD puppies. In fact, they apply to all puppies of any breed. Biting and chewing is a normal puppy behavior, and a normal part of play. As long as you react to this behavior in the right way, it is a period that will pass. The biggest fear for most German Shepherd puppy owners is that their puppy is aggressive when it bites. German Shepherd puppy biting can be accompanied by ferocious growls or snarls. It can even draw blood. So are behaviors like snarling and growling. And, if your puppy is biting hard enough to injure you, they may not have learnt proper bite inhibition yet. This is the process where your puppy learns to be gentle with his teeth on your skin. The positive reward methods we discussed earlier in this guide are the best way to teach your puppy bite inhibition. Remove yourself calmly and quietly whenever your puppy bites. And make sure to reward any calm behavior — including when your puppy lets you pet it without biting. Speak to a Behaviorist If you think your puppy is exhibiting aggressive behaviors, such as guarding their resources, you may want to speak to a behaviorist. They will be able to look at your puppy as an individual case, and analyse their behavior properly. Do Adult German Shepherds Bite? The German Shepherd breed is known for being aggressive in some circumstances — they make popular guard dogs, and are number one candidates for working dog roles in the police and military.

If this sounds like your doodle, he probably needs bathing between grooming appointments. If you have multiple doodles to bathe, buy a gentle shampoo such as one that's oatmeal-based or made especially for puppies. Doodles do not have an undercoat and do not need an extra conditioning or deep-cleaning shampoo. Step 2 Brush your labradoodle out before getting him wet. Doodles tend to mat and if yours has mats, comb or pull them out with your fingers before his bath. If his mats get wet, they will be more difficult to remove and may cause pain or discomfort if they are close to the skin. Use a handheld shower head to wet him completely, making sure you get the hair underneath wet. Pour a dime- or quarter-size amount of shampoo in your hands and squeeze the shampoo through his coat rather than rubbing it in. Step 4 Rinse your doodle off thoroughly, making sure all the shampoo is washed out. If your labradoodle is super curly, rinse carefully: shampoo not washed out can become itchy. Step 5 Watch his ears so they do not get too wet: try to avoid getting water in his ear canals. You may want to put cotton in his ears to keep them dry, or avoid washing around his ears. Labradoodles have floppy ears that are not exposed to air and are often prone to chronic ear infections. After a bath, take a few cotton balls and swab the ear canal to dry it. Step 6 Dry your doodle off with towels and allow him to air-dry so his coat falls naturally. Wait to brush him out until he is completely dry. More Articles. It is important to realize that regular brushing, bathing, and grooming are different things. Grooming includes the trimming of the hair, and is usually done in tandem with bathing or directly after but does not need to happen quite as frequently, although you are welcome to do so if you would like. Bathing helps you check in on your Labradoodle, maintain their coat from tangling, and keeps them healthy and clean. Labradoodles should be bathed every 2 to 3 weeks but can go up to 4 or 5 weeks depending on the time of year and their other grooming habits. For example, a dog will shed more in the fall and spring as he or she prepares for the cold or hot weather respectively; you will want to bathe him or her more during this time. Bathing your Labradoodle regularly helps you take care of their hair and also allows you to inspect all areas of their body. You will want to take into consideration the amount of shedding happening as well as the amount of outside time your Labradoodle is getting. If it is a high shedding season, you will want to bathe and groom your Labradoodle more frequently to assist in the shedding process. Similarly, when they spend a lot of time outdoors they get dirtier with sweat, mud, pollen, or sticks and need a more regular grooming routine as well. Since a Labradoodle coat repels dirt anyway, this should not be difficult. Simply follow the standard guidelines, and you should be fine. Labradoodle puppies actually need less bathing than full-grown Labradoodles, except in the case of visible dirt. When a Labradoodle puppy is developing his or her adult fur coat, his or her body will be attempting to regulate the oils that help to prevent dry skin among other concerns. Additionally, it is not until a dog has reached past the six- to eight-month range that his or her adult coat has become more water-resistant. Thus, as your Labradoodle puppy grows and plays, it is important to consider only bathing once per month or unless you can see visible dirt. If you are able to simply brush the dirt away, and your puppy does not have a strong odor, you may consider doing this to spread the bathing process out. Daily brushing is not necessary but will make the scheduled grooming less intensive. Labradoodles are pretty playful dogs all throughout their lifetime, but this may be especially true during their puppy years. Therefore, you may find that your Labradoodle puppy tends to roll around in the dirt more than he or she will in later years. If this is the case, then the basic brushing or rinsing method may be preferable to bathing weekly. Many people wonder when it is safe to first bathe a puppy. Puppies can be bathed as soon as they are ready and able to go home. Keep in mind, though, that bathing a puppy can be a scary process for them, so you will want to consider a few tricks to make the process more fun. For example, you may bathe them in a smaller bin than a large white tub, run the water prior to baths so that the initial process is not as loud, and provide a treat before and after they complete a job well done in the bath. By creating a safe and fun environment and reflecting an exciting personality for them to mirror, your Labradoodle will have a better likelihood of enjoying bath time from the start. How often you groom your Labradoodle will largely depend on your lifestyle and preferences. Many Labradoodles do not need to be fully groomed more than four times per year. You can minimize full shaves by trimming more regularly before a full shave is needed. Keep an eye out for signs of wax buildup and excessive ear hair; these may be indications of ear mites or disease. You put the solution into each ear, massage it for seconds, and then wipe it out using a tissue. Check with your vet for tips on loose hair removal and which solution to use. Labradoodles have a thick, curly type of coat which means it will take longer to bathe them in comparison to other dogs with straight or thinner coat types. Choosing when you will bathe your Labradoodle, as well as having all of your bathing tools ready in advance is important for a successful bath. Do not expect to be done in a few minutes like you would with a short-haired or small dog. One thing to note is that if you want your Labradoodle to have time outside afterward for drying purposes or just to help them be comfortable before bed, you should aim for mid-day so the sun is out and they have plenty of drying time. Otherwise, you may choose to dry them with a towel or blow dryer if they will let you do so. Keep in mind, though, that many dogs are scared of loud noises, so your Labradoodle may take some warming up to a hairdryer if this is the option you choose to go with. Knowing What You Need Getting the right products and equipment is very important for bathing your Labradoodle. Below, I will include a section on great shampoos and conditioners to use with your furry friend. If you are comfortable just using your regular tub, you will not really need much more. Just a couple of towels and maybe a hairdryer for drying as well as a good slicker brush to detangle after will be the essentials! Ideally, you will have a hose or removable showerhead so that you can rinse it easier. If you decide that you would rather use something other than a regular tub, you may need access to other tools to help make this process go smoothly. You may choose to use a bin for them to stand in and a bucket to transport water for rinsing purposes. By choosing something that will require less effort on your part, you will be more accessible to your dog and make this process a fun and routine experience for him or her. The Process in the Bath for your Labradoodle Acclimate Your Labradoodle and Rinse The first thing you will need to do is get your Labradoodle used to the bath and showerhead. A bath is not something that a dog has naturally been bred to understand, so it takes a little coaching and familiarizing on your part. Many dogs quickly acclimate to the process, but it is helpful if you are there encouraging them along the way both in practice and in attitude. To help acclimate your Labradoodle to the bath, put a little water in the bottom of the tub and allow them to stand in it. Making sure it is warm is a good idea to get them a positive first impression. This can be done in a quiet and calm fashion to show your Labradoodle that this is nothing to be scared of or dreaded. After you have gotten them more comfortable with their surroundings the tub plus a small amount of water , try turning on the showerhead or hose attachment while petting them. Let them see it is not harmful and allow them to get used to the noise and feeling. Again, your calming presence and helpful comfort will be helpful if they are more fearful of the bath or bathing devices. Add Products and Check on Their Skin Once you are able to get them fully rinsed off as in there is no visible dirt on the fur and their coat is entirely wet , you will want to lather them with the product of your choice. Please ensure that this product is safe for your dog by checking with your vet or by using products that are designed for your fur baby. When you are lathering them with the suds, it is best to use your hands to do this so that you can feel around under the coat on the skin for any problems such as lumps, bumps, or parasitic ticks. Regularly feeling them including during bath time will help you to detect ticks or abnormalities earlier on and could save your Labradoodle from experiencing much worse pains. This is considered more of a preventative health approach than a reactive one. Keep in mind it is good to avoid ears on Labradoodles when rinsing and using products. Their floppy, large ears are prone to infections and issues. By using your hands to rinse and wash them, you will have much more control over the areas of the body that receive treatment. As they may be excited and moving about more freely, you can help to show them how to stay calm by holding them lovingly as you rinse them. It will be important for you to consider wearing clothes that you do not mind getting wet or sudsy so that you can feel comfortable providing whatever support your pup may need during bath time. Rinse and Maybe Repeat After lathering your Labradoodle with shampoo and inspecting by rustling your fingers through his or her fur, you should thoroughly rinse them off. You will want to make sure to use the hose or showerhead to get all areas of them thoroughly rinsed off. Be sure that there are no more bubbles or suds that are coming off from their hair as you complete the process. This is particularly important because leaving in shampoo by accident can cause worse tangling after the bath. So, rather than helping in the grooming process, this can actually hurt their fur and can become painful for them. Additionally, this can cause the next bath and grooming time to be much more difficult for you as you will have to untangle more fur than you would have had you just rinsed your dog off completely the first time. Drying Drying the coat of a Labradoodle is no easy task! If you know anyone with thick, curly hair or if that is you in this case , then that person can absolutely verify that drying their hair is likely the lengthiest part of the hair maintenance process. When drying off a Labradoodle, you can expect to go through large towels during this. You will want to use towels that have a higher absorbency, but they do not have to specifically be designed for use with a dog. Using a hairdryer if your pup will let you can improve drying time significantly! Many dogs get very excited positively or negatively by loud noises such as hairdryers. If your dog is positively excited about the hairdryer, you will want to hold them more firmly while you dry them off- though be sure that this is still considered a fun activity for your pup. If they are negatively excited by the loud hairdryer, be sure to warn them before you turn it on, calmly approach them, and keep the intervals of use short. Take extra care to dry their ears, using tissue or cotton, to make sure they do not have water caught in there for long. It is important to note that just like humans should not cram a Q-tip into the ear canal as this can actually push and pack wax and other substances further into the canal , you will want to follow the same precautions for your dog. Wipe off any surface of the ear that is visible to the human eye, but do not go any further. Allowing tangles to sit can cause them to become much worse — and the last thing you want is to end up at a groomer after spending time and effort attempting to do this on your own. Similar to human hair, one of the best things you can do is to use a thick bristle comb on the fur while it is still wet. This will ensure that the tangles are removed thoroughly without breaking or damaging the hair. You can find thick bristle combs specifically designed for dogs, or you can even just use one that is designed for human hair as long as you remain cautious and aware of your dog during the grooming process. Brushing with a thin bristle brush or comb before they are dry can cause their hair to break or come out more easily, so waiting to brush them is the best option here. If you are going to attempt to do this on your own, this is also the best time to trim them as well. If you notice they need it and have learned how to do so without causing harm to your dog there are several areas you can learn online then taking off a bit of length can be a great thing for them and you. If you are unfamiliar with the trimming process or do not have the right tools, it is important to take your dog to a professional groomer instead of attempting this and accidentally harming your furry friend. This would absolutely delay their enjoyment of bath and grooming time. Then, the owner can attempt in a small capacity on areas instead of the entire coat that he or she feels comfortable prior to the groomer trimming the rest, and then eliminate the groomer completely. When considering purchasing a shampoo and conditioner for your Labradoodle, it is critical to remember that you must find one that is designed for doggy fur. Sometimes, human baby shampoos can be used on dogs, but it is best to purchase one that is designed specifically for use with animals. Here are a few to consider: 1. Ph Balanced! Made In The Usa! Buy With Confidence! Any price and availability information displayed on [relevant Amazon Site s , as applicable] at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product. One of the things that I love about using this brand of shampoo is the fact that it makes untangling so much easier afterward. I am not positive as to why this is the case, although I assume it has something to do with the oatmeal. Either way, it definitely feels great for their fur. Healthy Breeds Pet Shampoo is a great product that is also economical. This brand is a great, safe choice if you are looking for a shampoo to try out for the first time! They do not require frequent baths because too much bathing can strip away necessary oils in their skin and fur. If your Labradoodle has a curly coat, you probably take them to the groomer on occasion for a trim, and they can be washed there. However, as any dog owner knows, dogs love to roll around in gross things, and your playful pup may not shy away from a mud puddle. Dogs are the same way. Also, when long fur gets wet, it will stretch more when you pull on it, resulting in rips and tears that will make their coat look worse. Let your dog test the water before you turn on the shower head or start dumping it on them. The last thing you want to do is create an aversion to bath time. Labradoodles tend to enjoy water, so they are likely to be fine in the bath. Choose the right products There are so many dog shampoos and conditioners on the market. It can be hard to choose which one is best for your Labradoodle. With this breed, simple products without a lot of scents or colors may be best. While the Labradoodle is considered to be a hypoallergenic dog, this does not mean that the dog cannot suffer from allergies. Labradoodles are prone to environmental allergies, which can extend to grooming products. If your shampoo makes your dog itchy and uncomfortable, they will probably scratch themselves excessively, which can cause skin problems. Also look for products that are non-toxic, because it is hard to stop your dog from licking himself. Look for a gentle shampoo, perhaps even one that is made for dogs with allergies. The goal is to remove the dirt and bad odors, not completely strip their skin and coat of necessary oils. There are also shampoos on the market that are designed to make white coats appear whiter. If your white Labradoodle looks yellow or discolored, you may want to try one of those shampoos. Conditioners are also available for dogs with especially dry coats, but they are not necessary for bathing. Labradoodles need to be bathed every two to three weeks. This will help clean their fur and allow you to check their skin. Dogs can get dirty really easily, and they need regular grooming to remove dirt and dust from their coats. Bathing your Labradoodle is not only essential to keep them clean and healthy, it helps to prevent hair knots and matting As a single coated and low shedding breed, Labradoodles will require deep rinsing when they are bathed. A small Doodle puppy having a bath Regular brushing, bathing, and groomings are all different things. Grooms include the trimming of the fur, and is usually done together with bathing or directly before. Groom every weeks for most Labradoodle coats Bathing helps with both aesthetics, coat health, and prevention of skin conditions Brushing for a wavy or curly coat LAbradoodle should be at least every few days the more the merrier If you own a straight coat Labradoodle shedding you should consider how much shedding is happening. If it is a higher shedding season, you should bathe and groom your dog more frequently to assist in shedding. Also, if your dog spends a lot of time outside, he gets dirty with sweat, mud, pollens, or sticks. He needs a more frequent grooming routine. This causes your dog to itch. Grooming for Labradoodles like Max after the beach means thorough rinsing with fresh water, followed by a Gentle Shampoo and brush at home. Labradoodle puppies need bathing just the same as full-grown Labradoodles. However a spot clean here and there is usually more appropriate for a puppy. They frequently make messes so a full bath is overkill and can hurt the coat. Puppies love playing in the dirt. This is normal behavior. Puppies often also struggle with potty training Puppies make a beeline toward bad smells and messes So expect a lot of spot cleans and mini baths for your Labradoodle puppy. How Old Should Labradoodle Puppies Be For Bath In terms of a full bath, you can start bathing your puppy when he or she is old enough to understand what is happening. Make sure you do this in an appropriate place, such as a bathtub or sink. Puppies need to learn about water before being bathed, so try to teach your puppy to enjoy baths. Do this by slowly introducing the concept, making it seem fun, and minimizing background distractions. Bathing dogs in a smaller container makes them feel more comfortable. These small gestures all work well together to create and reinforce a positive experience. Instead of using adult Labradoodle shampoo — go for a gentle puppy shampoo or even some baby shampoos if they are Vet and Groomer approved. Straight hair dogs still can have some Poodle-esque snout furnishings. This one needs a bath! A Labradoodle needs to be groomed and trimmed about once every two months. Trimming the hair around the face, butt, and ears is important because this is where most dirt accumulates. Our detailed grooming guide for Labradoodles gives 11 tips for DIY grooming. It is very possible to confidently groom a Labradoodle, but it takes preparation and practice. How to Bathe Your Labradoodle Bathing your Labradoodle takes longer than bathing many other breeds because of their thick coats. You should set aside some time before you bathe your Labradoodle so you can prepare everything you need beforehand. Some Labradoodles LOVE the water and playing fetch At Home Labradoodle Bathing Shopping List A decent shampoo that suits Labradoodle coats does not need to be crazy expensive Towels many, many towels Scissors even though we are not grooming, in case of knots or surprises Rubber gloves I do not use but many do Dog brush optional — I suggest a metal comb as well Small bucket for rinsing Tear stain remover if your Labradoodle has a light coat The Process in the Bath for your Labradoodle Acclimate your Labradoodle to the bath by putting some water in the bottom of a tub and allowing him to stand in it. Turn on the showerhead or hose attachment while petting him. Make sure he sees it is not harmful and allows him to get used to the sound and feel. Rinse first before adding any product. Sand, dirt, debris. Make sure the water gets to the skin level through the long coat. Once you are able to get the dogs completely rinsed off so that there is no visible dirt left on the fur and their coats are entirely wet , you will then want to lather them up with the product of your choosing. Labradoodle Max enjoys a cuddle in a towel after a shower and bath Make sure that this product is safe to use on your dog by checking with a veterinarian or by using products that were specifically designed for your furry friend. Use this opportunity to perform your own health check. Rinse your dog with water from the tap or small bucket and inspect them thoroughly before washing them again. Twice over gives a thorough and great result. This might seem obvious, but make sure there are no more bubbles coming out of the coat. Labradoodle luxurious hair does tend to trap some soap. Dry Time a Challenge Drying a Labradoodle is hard work! You need to use lots of towels, and you need to be careful not to scare your puppy too much. Use a hairdryer if you like, and be careful when turning it on. Also, take extra care to dry their eyes and ears. Most dogs find the noise of a hairdryer overwhelming. Brush a dry dog only. A wet dog can be combed blunt steel comb though, these are so helpful. You should bathe your dog fully when he is 3 months old. Use quality puppy shampoo and conditioners designed for puppies. You can skip the conditioner really — but some owners like this extra step. Before 3 months, you should get him used to being wet and having been washed. Do mini baths or fast baths for the puppy coat until this age. This helps make future baths much easier. Even getting used to the running water and towel dry will help your dog be happier as an adult doodle during a grooming session. The Consequences of too Many Baths for Labradoodles If you wash a Labradoodle too frequently, we risk damaging their adult coat. The coat needs time to grow and develop properly. If you wash your dog too often, you could damage its natural protective oils and leave it feeling rough and scratchy. The likelihood of skin irritation or reaction to cleaning equipment also increased with an over-washed coat. Dry skin, loose hair, and irritated skin need to be monitored. Realistically this will not be a concern for most of us. Our Labradoodle Max does visit the beach often, so he gets washed in Summer FAR more frequently than the other times of the year. We try to efficiently wash him using safe and gentle shampoo — but cut down the repeat lathering. When winter comes round, he bathes far less frequently — but we use more shampoo and later more when he does wash. A happy gray Poodle and Doodle dog. Their fur looks dull and lifeless. The entire coat has an odor If you have a sedentary, indoor Labradoodle — do NOT feel obliged to bathe your dog every 2 weeks. That said, you can help make bath time easier for your Labrador by starting early and introducing him to water gently. Use treats and praises to introduce him to all elements of the bathing process. A dog needs to learn how to take baths, shampoo, conditioner, wash rags, brushes, and blow dryer. It takes time and effort to teach a dog everything he or she needs to know about bathing. Start with a few short baths then gradually increase the frequency. Be patient. Dogs and puppies can take many different attempts to understand and learn a new concept. Should you blow-dry a Labradoodle coat? Start by using a gentle hairdryer setting. I know this sounds ridiculous as even the quiet settings are often very intense. But as possible, build up the settings slowly. Start with the outside of the legs — most dogs tolerate this the most. Then dry the legs. Save the head, chest, and face for the very last. The restraint is calming a bit and safe and makes maneuvering around a displeased Labradoodle much easier. It is the only area that requires you to have a little extra knowledge and to be cautious. We have a guide specifically about ear cleaning. A big number of issues that Labradoodles have with health and odor all relate to the ears. Ear infections are common, as are grime and mites caught in the ear hair. The Curly coat type is particularly prone to this issue. It was the most surprising area of grooming that I have encountered with Poodle Mix breeds. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. Helping them get accustomed to the bathing and drying process will make it easier when they are bigger. The specific method used to bathe a Labradoodle will vary from one dog to the next, because their coat types can vary significantly. Some may have the tight curls of the Poodle, whilst others have straighter, thick Lab coats. Is Labradoodle Bathing Important? While many Labradoodle dogs are easier to manage than other breeds or mixes thanks to their low-shedding fur, they still need routine grooming. And yes, this sometimes includes a scheduled bath. Labradoodles are energetic, playful, and fun-loving breeds that love spending time outdoors and in water. And, playtime outside almost always involves some splashing in puddles and rolling in dirt. When this happens, your doodle dog will need a bath! This could also be the case if your pet develops a skin condition that needs to be treated with a medicated shampoo. So, you may find the event happening more often than you first expected. Even if you take your dog to the groomer regularly, there will be times where you need to clean them after a particularly messy walk. This is especially true if you have a first- or second-generation Labradoodle crossbreed. Their fur sheds less and produces less allergy inducing dander than many other types of dogs. All dogs shed and shed most during shedding season, including the Labradoodle. Along with being low shedding, the Labradoodle also has a dirt-repellent coat that tends to be much easier to manage. You can begin bathing your Labradoodle once he reaches three months of age. Try using a quality shampoo and conditioner that is designed for puppies. This is a part of socialization and can help make future bath times much easier. Once you begin bathing your Labradoodle, you may be tempted to do it more often than needed. But, over-bathing your Labradoodle can actually be damaging to their skin and fur. Once your Labradoodle reaches at least three months of age, you can begin bathing him once every two to three weeks. Doing so could have a negative impact on their skin and coat. All dogs produce natural oils that help aid in skin and coat health. Over-washing them can hinder this natural production of oils they need in order to keep their fur healthy. Overproduction or underproduction of these oils can cause an increase in skin problems. Including allergies, dry skin, patchy fur, and can even increase shedding. Luckily, Labradoodles are not known to carry much doggy odor. Still, if you want to help keep your Labradoodle smelling fresh between bath time, you always have the option of using grooming wipes or coconut oil. Some owners find this helps to reduce dry skin, soothe allergies, and keep their Labradoodle smelling lovely. However, be aware there is currently little evidence in scientific studies for these claims. You can then gently rub in your chosen shampoo, working it through their curls gently. Make sure the shampoo is fully rinsed out before moving onto the conditioner. Once again, make sure all conditioner is fully washed out afterwards. Dry them off with a towel at first, gently patting them dry and squeezing water out of the fur. Use your hand to soften the intensity of air. Tips for Getting Your Labradoodle Used to Bathtime Getting your Labradoodle puppy comfortable with being bathed at an early age can make all the difference when it comes to routine bath time. We should note that most dogs do not like being bathed. Even dogs who love water often tuck their tails when it comes time for a good wash. That said, you can help make bath time easier for your Labradoodle by starting early and introducing them to water gently. Use treats and praise to introduce them to all elements of the bath including: The bathtub. They are energetic, fun-loving, and playful dogs. But they definitely have a lot of fur; it can either be tight curly locks and sometimes straighter hair with a thick coat. Although their thick coat can be a reason for you to love them even more, the thick coat paired with their playful nature can make bathing a long and not-so-easy process. How often to bathe a Labradoodle? Labradoodles should be based once every weeks, if you are lucky, they can last up to 5 months without a bath. Thankfully, their thick coat is not only beautiful, it is also dirt-repellent, which will make the need for bathing less frequent. If you want to know how often to bathe your furry Labradoodle and how this changes depending on things like seasons, for example, how to do it quickly and properly, when it is absolutely necessary to bathe them right away, and how to dry your Labradoodle, keep reading. Your life is about to get a whole lot easier. How often should you bathe your Labradoodle? If your Labradoodle is still a puppy, the bathing task will be much easier. As puppies, you can teach them to like bathing. Once your Labradoodle turns 3 months, it is your green light to start bathing them. Puppies should be bathed once every 3 to 5 months. If your Labradoodle is grown, it should be once every weeks. A scheduled bath for puppies will make it easier for them and you when they get older. Their dirt-repelling coat will make the bathing easier to manage. You should not over-bathe, though. But what does this actually means will depend on many things, and most importantly of those is the season and their activities. There are many situations where you just have to give your Labradoodle a bath right away, for example, Labradoodles are quite playful, and during your walk, your dog may even splash into a puddle of mud and get dirty. Bad Odor If your Labradoodle smells, you should bathe them right away. Bad odor is not typical for these adorable dog breeds. Medical condition If your Labradoodle has a medical condition that requires you to use a specific medicinal shampoo, you might need to bathe them more regularly as part of their treatment. I also have a few recommendations for medicated shampoos in my guide to shampoos for your dogs here. Chemicals If you have been doing some gardening, it is possible that you have used some chemicals. You have probably warned your Labradoodle not to go out, but they got tempted anyway. If Your Labradoodle has been exposed to such chemicals, you should bathe them right away and make sure all the chemicals are out of their coat. Fleas All dogs can get fleas, however, Labradoodles are more prone to them because of their thick coat, which means fleas can be hidden deep inside their curly locks. If you notice fleas on your dog, pick them out and bathe them using an oatmeal shampoo right away. Salt If the snow did not stop you from going for a walk with your Labradoodle, then hats off to you. Before going out in the snow, make sure your Labradoodle is warm enough. The salt that is used to melt the snow on the street can be quite harmful to your dog. It can hurt their little paws. Thus, you should bathe your dog the minute they get home. You should also double-check to see if their paws are salt-free. How to bathe your Labradoodle Properly and Quickly If you follow the steps I explain here, I guarantee you that you will bathe your Labradoodle properly and quickly. Cover their ears, eyes, and nose If water gets in their ears, eyes, or their nose, the bathing experience will be completely annoying and may be harmful for your Labradoodle. You can use cotton balls to cover such sensitive areas. Check the water temperature Before putting your Labradoodle in the bath, test out yourself first. The water should not be too cool or too hot. The most convenient water temperature for your Labradoodle is warm. However, if you are bathing your dog during Summertime, you can make the water a bit colder. Wet the fur Curls need hydration. Completely wet hair will be easiest to detangle and will absorb shampoo and conditioner better, just like humans. Speaking of curls, you can learn how to prevent your curly dog from getting matted here. Make sure to use circular motions that allow the shampoo to travel to the root. After you apply the shampoo, you should make sure that it is completely rinsed out. Curls need love, if you are a curly-haired person, you understand. It might be useful to detangle their hair while the conditioner is in. After that, make sure you rinse out the conditioner completely too. Use shampoos and conditioners that are made for dogs, not humans. Dry them with a towel If you are lucky, you will need only one towel to dry your dog. Normally, people use three medium-sized towels to dry out their Labradoodles. Squeeze the remaining water out of the fur Using a towel alone is not enough, you should make sure all the water is out of their fur so that their skin does not get dry. Using your hands here is essential to squeeze out the remaining water. Hairdryer This step is optional. You can use your hairdryer to speed up the process. Make sure to hold the hairdryer away enough to not hurt your Labradoodle. Due to their floppy ears, they do not get enough air circulation, which can be a pretty cozy environment for bacteria. How to dry your Labradoodle after a bath As I have mentioned before, Labradoodles have a thick, curly fur coat, which makes it very hard to dry them after a bath. You should make sure that you are using high-absorbency towels to dry your Oodle with. Some people claim they use up to 5 high-absorbency, medium-sized towels. Laundry day is about to get messy. Labradoodles are very playful creatures, they might mistake your attempts of drying them with play-time. They might think you are petting them and get excited. It might be better to use a hairdryer to dry your Labradoodle in Winter. Thus, you would be doing your Labradoodle a favor. In all cases, it is best if you dry your Labradoodle thoroughly. If you find water in these sensitive areas, you should use cotton swabs to suck out the water. However, just like humans, you should be careful not to stick it in too much. Drying your Labradoodle will require a lot of effort and time, which is inevitable. But, it is essential that you do it correctly so that you prevent them from getting any serious skin issues such as dandruff or dry skin. Bathing and drying your Labradoodle is also considered to be valued quality time between you and your dog. So, try to enjoy it as much as possible. Yes, I know that is a lot of hard work, but it would save you a lot of time during washdays. You could also use coconut oil to soothe their skin and make sure they have a moisturized and shiny coat. Related Questions Do Labradoodles like baths? Yes, most Labradoodles like baths. If your Labradoodle is still a puppy, it is completely in your hands to make them like baths. If not, you are still in luck. Labradoodles are crossbreeds and since they are partially poodles, they like to swim too. Can you Bathe your labradoodle once a week? No, you should not bathe your Labradoodle once a week. Overbathing your dog might lead to skin issues such as dry skin and dandruff. As a rule of thumb, you should bathe your Labradoodle once every weeks. Can Labradoodles swim? Yes, it is most likely that Labradoodles enjoy swimming. They are bred from Poodles, which enjoy a swim too. However, some doodles require some encouragement and love to gather the courage to swim. How often should you wash a Labradoodle puppy? Labradoodle puppies often stay indoors. Thus, they require less bathing time. You can bathe your pup once every 4- 6 months and it will be enough for them. Check out the best and healthiest foods for golden retrievers at every age here — Dry, Wet, Homemade Recipes, and Treats! Taking a walk? These are the best leashes, collars, and harnesses for the buck that you can find. Labradoodles are a wonderful dog breed and opening up your home to one of these pups is going to bring so much joy into your life. With that being said, Labradoodles also require a considerable amount of maintenance and upkeep — with bathing being an easy thing to overlook. How to bathe a Labradoodle To bathe a Labradoodle, start by brushing them to remove any loose dirt, set your bath water to a lukewarm temperature, and gently help your dog inside. Lastly, dry your Labradoodle with a towel and blowdryer. A Labradoodle combines the incredible personality traits of the Labrador Retriever and the Poodle. This makes Labradoodles both unique and expensive , as you get to have the playful nature of a Labrador combined with the intelligence and cleverness of a Poddle, which is why so many pet owners are hopping on the Doodle trend. However, this kind of pup needs to be approached with careful consideration as it has unique qualities that make it stand out among other dogs. One of the first characteristics you will notice with your Labradoodle is that your pup has a different type of coat. Unlike most dog breeds that have fur, a Labradoodle has hair, which means that you need to bathe it properly if you want to keep its coat healthy. To help you understand this further, we are going to take you through our 5 step Labradoodle bath time routine. After extensively researching Labradoodle maintenance, I have been able to gather enough information to determine how to properly bathe this breed. My research has shown me that you need to follow the Labradoodle bathing procedure carefully if you want to get the best results from their coat. Keep in mind, you can always get your dog groomed by a professional groomer. Depending on who you ask, you will get a few different answers on this but as a general rule of thumb, you should bathe your pup once per month. With that being said, each Labradoodle is different and you may find that you need to bathe your dog more or less often depending on its lifestyle and environment. If your Labradoodle has a pretty stable routine at home and goes out for casual walks in urban areas, then you can probably get away with bathing your dog every 5 to 6 weeks. On the other hand, if you have a very active Labradoodle out in the countryside or simply one that tends to get messy at dog parks, you may need to wash your pup as often as every 3 weeks. You also need to consider that there is a difference between bathing and rinsing. Bathing is a thorough cleaning process where you give your Labradoodle a deep wash that targets its coat fully, as well as its skin. Rining is simply washing off your dog after they get a little bit muddy or dirty. When you bathe your Labradoodle, you want to do it routinely and systematically so that you can keep its coat as healthy as possible. Whereas rinsing is something that you can do quite regularly when needed — with some owners giving their dog a rinse multiple times a week after rugged play sessions at the park. Before you commit to a routine bathing schedule for your Labradoodle, you should try to observe its habits and behavior so that you can find an optimal timeframe that suits your pup. As we said, each Labradoodle is a bit different and you should decide on a schedule for your dog based on its lifestyle. Labradoodle Bathing Supplies Before you can begin bathing your pup, you first need to gather all of the right supplies for the job. Simply spraying your Labradoodle with your backyard hose is not going to do the trick. These are the bathing supplies that you need to get before you can start washing your dog. Given that this breed does not have fur, you need to buy a shampoo that is specifically meant for hair. There are a lot of different shampoo products out there and it is easy to feel overwhelmed when you consider your options. Some products have been made just for Labradoodle coats, which are going to deliver the best end results. Check Price One thing you always want to watch out for are shampoos that contain a lot of additives and chemicals. Much like with human hair, a Labradoodles coat is going to benefit most from natural ingredients — so read labels carefully and try to rely on trusted brands. Some products have been known to cause skin irritations, which is something you want to avoid at all costs. Whenever picking out a new shampoo, always do a test first to see how your dog responds. If you see that the coat is healthy afterward and that their skin is not irritated, you should be good to go. The coat of a Labradoodle will require a thorough drying process, which is why it is best to have at least two towels handy before you begin washing. A blow dryer with multiple settings is also recommended so that you can expose your Labradoodle to it slowly, which will keep them from getting frightened and intimidated. Exfoliated Dog Bathing Gloves Your hands should suffice for bathing your Labradoodle but by using exfoliated dog bathing gloves , you will find that the cleaning process is much more thorough. These gloves were designed for cleaning dog coats and having them on can make a huge difference in how effective the bathing process is. They are texturized to remove more hair, which will ensure a minimal amount of shedding, and they will also help get rid of any dead skin on your Labradoodle. This dog breed has a very specific type of coat that needs to be looked after carefully, as it can easily get messy if you forget to keep a consistent cleaning schedule. These are the steps that you need to follow to bathe your pup. Step 1: Hair Brushing Before you begin washing your Labradoodle with water, you want to get as much dirt and debris out of its coat as possible by using a brush Having a reliable brush for your Labradoodle is going to be a must for maintaining its hair — regardless of washing. You will be amazed by how much cleaning time you can save by doing this properly. In addition to dirt and debris, you also want to remove any loose hair from the coat, as this is also something that will hinder the bathing process. With that being said, we always find that it is better to take care of as much of the prep-work beforehand so that you can avoid a rough transition when the time comes to bathe your pup. The first thing that you want to do is make sure that all of your necessary cleaning supplies are nearby so that you can easily reach them. You want to make your Labradoodle as comfortable as possible when getting bathed which is why you should set the temperature of your water before throwing them into the tub. Lukewarm is generally the most ideal temperature setting for washing a dog. Step 3: Help Your Dog Get Into the Bath Again, each pup reacts differently to getting washed and you want to make the experience as pleasant as possible for them. If your dog is willing to hop right in for their routine bath, then great. However, not all Labradoodles are like this and may feel intimidated or dislike getting washed altogether. You can either usher your pup into the bath so they can hop in on their own or you can gently pick them up and place them inside. You must approach this with care so that they are not frightened by the idea of getting clean — especially if they are puppies and still getting used to the idea of bathing. Once they are inside, make sure that they feel comfortable and secure before you begin cleaning. Allow 30 seconds to a minute of adjustment time without the water on so that they can gauge their environment. This is always a good time for a pet, a pat, and a treat to reassure them that they are in good hands. You should be able to get a substantial amount of cleaning done with water alone, which will wash out the majority of the dirt, dust, and any kind of debris that is embedded into their coat. After you have gone through with the initial rinse, turn the water off if possible especially if they find it unpleasant. Go through their entire coat gently yet firmly and scrub all the way down to their skin. A lot of dogs actually enjoy this part of the bathing process, as it is essentially a massage. Once the product has been properly applied, let it soak into the coat for at least a couple of minutes. You can then rinse out the shampoo while giving them another quick scrub, which should remove any remaining dirt or debris. Given the curly and shaggy nature of their hair, a quick pass-through with a towel is not going to be enough to properly dry them. With your Labradoodle still inside the bath, use a towel to remove as much water as possible from their coat. You will find that the town soaks up quite a lot and it will likely become wet very quickly. Having a second towel handy is always a good idea when drying your Labradoodle, as you are going to need it. Now, that the initial drying process is done, use a blowdryer to remove the remaining moisture. Dogs typically do not like blowdryers at first and may even be afraid of them. Get your Labradoodle used to the blowdryer by gently exposing them to it. Use it from a further distance on a light setting and gradually work your way closer. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Australian Labradoodle Grooming Guide Choosing a Groomer Before you bring your Australian Labradoodle to the groomer, ask if they have had previous experience clipping Australian Labradoodles. Show your groomer some photos from our website so that they know exactly how you expect the clip to look. Labradoodle coats require a regular brushing and grooming routine. How often you have your Australian Labradoodle trimmed will depend on how fast their coat grows, your personal preferences in how long you leave them, how much maintenance you want to do at home, and how often you have them groomed professionally. You can expect to bathe and completely blow out their coat every weeks, and plan to have them trimmed approximately every weeks. For an adult Australian Labradoodle, you should allow on average, 60 minutes every two weeks for brushing time. If your Labradoodle is active in the water or hiking in nature areas, you may have to run a brush through them more often to remove debris or loosen hair clumping during the drying process post-swimming. Wait until your dog is dry, then run a slicker through their coat. Purchasing a small grooming table and arm, and training them to stand still during brushing and drying will save your back. But be warned that you need to always have a hand on your dog when they are on the grooming table or attached to a grooming arm. Never leave them or turn away or they can try to jump off the table and injure themselves. When your Labradoodle has short hair, an inch or two, regular brushing with a slicker can work just fine. Once the hair gets longer, it is important to make sure you are reaching all the way to the base of the hair by adding a metal greyhound comb. If loose hair is not removed near the skin, mats can begin to form. In separating your dogs coat with your hand, you can brush and comb all the way to the skin. Work backwards from the feet up to the body, and the tail to the head. Brush in the direction of the hair, but add small amounts of coat to each stroke. At approximately eight months old a puppy coat needs more frequent brushing during its changeover to the adult coat. Bathing: Australian Labradoodles need bathed and brushed out approximately once a month. Puppies can be bathed as needed. If you are going to bath your Australian Labradoodle at home, be sure to brush through the coat completely first. If you do it the other way around, any mats will get tighter when you get them wet. Also, watch that you do not pull on the mat while you are cutting it, and be aware of how closely the skin may be to your scissors. We also use a dematting tool to help break a mat into a smaller piece for easier removal. Then brush, comb, or gently work any mats out. Purchasing a commercial hair dryer is worth the investment and will speed up the drying process. Head: The lovable teddy bear look of your Australian Labradoodle is enjoyed every time you look at them, and every time you take them out and others look at them. No matter what length the body is trimmed, that adorable teddy bear face can make up the difference in winning hearts everywhere they go. A picture is worth a thousand words, so the photos and grooming card below coming soon will help to clarify the following worded instructions you will need to convey to your groomer to get exactly the look you want to see. It is best to print out the grooming card and take it with you at each visit to your groomer. This creates a more natural look and keeps the hair from poking at or covering their eyes. It also makes it easier to clean any matter out from the corner in the morning. Feet: Keeping your Labradoodles paws shaped nicely will help less water and debris attach to their feet as they are coming and going. We start trimming around their paws by around weeks of age to get them used to the action of having their feet picked up and worked with. You want to go around the bottom edge of their paw in a nice, rounded shape, snipping off longer hair so that it does not hit the ground. Your groomer can trim hair from the bottom of their feet with a clipper and a 30 blade. Nails should be trimmed regularly every weeks depending on wear. The hair under their tail should also be trimmed to keep the area clean. The perfect combination! But how often should you bathe a Labradoodle, anyway? And how to do it? First of all, regular grooming and brushing is crucial to prevent matting and tangling, which can quickly turn into a matted mess if left unattended. And believe us, no one wants to deal with a miserably tangled pup! Speaking of bathtime, regular bathing helps to remove dirt, debris, and any lingering odors that your pup may have picked up on their outdoor romps. With a little TLC and some time spent in the tub, your Labradoodle will smell fresh, which is obviously nice for both of you. Just make sure to use a dog shampoo, as human shampoos can strip their skin of precious oils and cause unwanted skin irritations. Did you know that you can use special shampoos for targeted care? So grab that brush, fill up the tub, and show your pup some grooming love today! Labradoodles come in either curly, wavy, or straight coats, depending on which genetics they inherit from each of their purebred parents. Curly coats tend to trap in dirt, debris, and loose dog hair, which can quickly lead to stubborn knots and tangles inside the fur. Then we have the wavy combination coat, that may shed some hair, depending on whether they have an undercoat or not. These pups usually come with a double coat, which means that some shedding may be present. Fortunately, you can keep this at a minimum by regularly brushing your Labradoodle. It goes without saying that Labradoodles really shine with their long and fluffy coats, giving them that signature Doodle look. However, long hair also requires more brushing and bathing. This helps prevent matting, but also get rid of any build-up dirt, dander, loose dog hair, and debris from the coat. On the other hand, shorter hair is usually easier to manage and maintain. And for other pups, washing them every two months is perfectly enough! But if your Labradoodle struggles with skin dryness or irritations, then bathing them too often could lead to more problems down the line. We recommend you start bathing your Labradoodle as soon as possible. In fact, many reputable Labradoodle breeders already start basic grooming, such as brushing, nail trimming, and bathing even before adoption. Just make sure you continue with this at home so that your pooch can get used to it. For this step, we recommend you also get a dog detangler spray , which will help you get the job done much faster. The next logical question would be — how to brush a Labradoodle? First, you want to run your fingers through all areas of the fur. If you find any knots, first work on each of them individually with a sturdy metal comb. Make sure you never pull on the hair! Start from the feet and paws, moving your way up towards the belly and neck, and finish with the back. Be sure to start brushing from the tip of the hair and then moving up towards the root to prevent any tangles getting worse. One of our favorite methods for Doodles is line brushing — say goodbye to any knots and tangles! Start out by putting a little bit of warm water in the bottom of your bathtub so that your pup can just stand in it. You might even want to let them sniff and inspect it first. If your Dood seems all good, you can turn on the showerhead while petting them at the same time. Having a few tasty treats at hand can also be helpful here! For the ears, we recommend putting cotton balls right at the opening of the ear canals. This will prevent any water from getting into the ears. Make sure that the water temperature is just right — not too hot and not too cold. By thoroughly rinsing the coat beforehand, the shampoo can also lather up nice and easy. Apply a generous amount of your chosen dog shampoo and lather it up all over the coat. Make sure you properly massage the shampoo into the fur so that you can get all areas clean. Also, be mindful of areas like the armpits and groin, as some people tend to overlook them. This is also a great opportunity for you to check for any lumps and bumps under the skin. Again, make sure you use warm water and thoroughly rinse off all areas of the fur, especially armpits and groin, where the suds tend to collect. For obvious reasons, we recommend a tearless dog shampoo for the facial area. You might want to pay some extra attention to areas that tend to get dirty, such as the muzzle and beard. Since the face can be a bit tricky, it might take some time to thoroughly rinse off all that shampoo. Apply a decent amount of conditioner with your hands all over the fur. Although conditioning the head and face is optional, it is recommended for curly-coated Labradoodles. This way, the product gets into all areas of the fur, but also prevents tangling. Again, pay extra attention to those hard-to-reach areas that we tend to overlook. Before you jump in with a towel, let your pooch shake all that excess water off themself. Then, you can gently squeeze out any excess water from areas with longer hair with your hands. Then, take your towel and start gently, yet firmly patting your Labradoodle dry all over. You should start with the lowest power and temperature settings. If necessary, you can gradually increase the settings, but the temperature should never get too hot. Also, keep in mind that some pups can get scared of noisy blow dryers. You can also use a leave-in dog conditioner or a dog detangler spray and brush it through the fur to keep the coat tangle-free and luscious for longer. We recommend you use a specially formulated dog ear cleaner for this step, as Labradoodles and other Poodle mixes are prone to ear infections due to the restricted air flow inside their ears. It goes without saying that you should never use a human shampoo on your pooch, as it could lead to skin irritations, dryness, and a host of other issues. We recommend you check out our in-depth guide on the best shampoos for Labradoodles , where we have some excellent recommendations for different skin and coat concerns.

Akc registered first. Both parents have dna check. Both parents have excellent pedigrees with national and international champion bloodlines and have passed all of their health xxxxxxxxxx. These puppies are gorgeous.We now have available 2 females from a litter of 7. They have all been fully health checked several times and have had both vaccinations. Healthy pups from Jason Puppies Store there are playful very active. Have had first vaccines also worming first shots and AKC registered. Giving out to a good and caring home. They are raised in our home, with young children and a lot of noise. Our Website www. They come with all their vaccinations up-to-date, dewormed, microchip system, We also give our clients a 1-yr warranty for any genetic.They are vet-checked, registered and have complete shots. Super calm with everyone and friendly with other.They have been well socialized with small children and the noise of a busy household. Text or Call xxxx For More Info. He has no health or behavior problems. We have a beautiful litter of english bulldog pups available. They come with AKC registration papers, copy of parents pedigrees, one year health guarantee, Parvo prevention and first puppy shot. The puppies are up to date on shots, and have recently received vaccination. They are in very good health, and have received formal home training. They are very cute and awesome. They are in need of a loving and caring home. He will be ready to go on May 30th and is up to date with all his shots and dewormed as well as microchipped. Bubba loves to run and play with children and other puppies, he comes with a1 year health guarantee and AKC full registration papers, he will make a great family pet and he also has the pedigree and structure to be a great show dog as he has lots of champions on the mom's side. Please call or text xxxxxxxxxx for more information or visit my website at xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. View Detail Wow! I have 2 puppies available a male and a female. They are health guarantee, DNA tested, current on all shots, potty trained, good with kids and other home pets. They shall also come along with a1 year health guarantee paper. Thank you View Detail Need help? Please contact contact petzlover. I am familiar with common and uncommon health problems they may face so when my boyfriend and I decided we were ready to adopt our own english puppy finding a reputable breeder that prioritizes health was most important to us. Erica and Mitch of Bruiser Bulldogs are just that. They are experienced, ethical and quality breeders. I was referred to them by my friend that I trust after I saw their gorgeous healthy puppy. Our Puppy Primrose is the light of our lives! Bruisers was there to assist us every step of the way. We would highly recommend Bruisers Bulldogs to anyone looking for their own happy, healthy pup! Leah H. We were lucky to have come across Bruiser Bulldogs and even more so the fact that they were near our family and hometown made it even better. We have had Clementine Callie for four months now, and she is a wonderful dog. Her personality is amazing, and I think part of it is breeding and the other part is Erika and her family lovingly raising the puppies in their home with plenty of attention and snuggles. I also was impressed that, rather than send the puppies out right at 8 weeks, Erika kept ours for a few extra weeks because she was tiny and not read to leave her mom yet. It's that care that differentiates Bruisers from other breeders. Emily R. Erica was easy to work with thru the entire process from application to adopting and now beyond as we host our new family member, Chief. Her on-call support and willingness to provide open, honest advice to all of our questions and concerns continues to be appreciated. We would highly recommend Bruiser Bulldogs to anyone looking for an English Bulldog to join their family. Elizabeth W. Lady L. They are experienced, responsive and knowledgeable about all things bulldog related. They went above and beyond for us and are truly dedicated to all of their pups! We love our little girl so much and would recommend Bruiser to anyone looking for a healthy beautiful bully. Jonathan E. Erica and Mitch are trustworthy, excellent communicators, fair, passionate, and produce the best bulldogs. We were at the top of the waiting list for months and Erica reached out every litter to see if we were finally ready for a bulldog. When we were, she was very easy to work with. Her knowledge on bulldogs is outstanding. We had many questions on the process and she always knew what was best for the puppy. We've had Penny formerly Blair for two months and she is very healthy, energetic, playful, and sweet. She is great with other people and dogs. We are so happy with our pup. When we are ready for bulldog 2, we will only consider Bruiser Bulldogs. Mitch C. Bowser was born April and is an integral part of our family. When we were first exploring English Bulldog breeders our biggest concern was the overall health of the dogs. We decided to work with Erica at Bruiser Bulldogs because we liked their focus on improving the breeds breathing abilities and the fact that the puppies are raised within her family environment before coming home with their new owners. Bowser also breaths clearly and our vet was impressed with his overall health from the moment we brought him home. All that said we know English Bulldogs have a predisposition to many health issues and that his current health can not predict the future. With that In mind its important to start with a breeder that open to answer any of your questions as Erica has ours, and that strongly believes in improving the breeds overall health profile. Adam B. My sister ended up finding Bruiser Bulldogs and we knew right away that they were the breeder for us. In September we ended up driving 9 hours to pick up two Bruiser bulldog puppies- one for my husband and I and one for my mom. Jackson and Penelope have been nothing but a joy. They are both very athletic and healthy. They are also HUGE snugglers and always want to be with you. It is an absolute pleasure having these two bullies in our lives! Erica is very knowledgeable about the breed. She is very hands on throughout the process and is just overall a kind and honest person to work with. With all that being said I cannot recommend Bruiser Bulldogs enough! Collyn C. One of the reasons we chose Bruiser Bulldogs was due to the claims about breeding for health. During our first visit at our vet's office, he told us that our pup was one of the healthiest English bulldogs he had ever seen. He is healthy, happy and social. Would recommend to anyone. Christina S. We seen our dog on their website and sent them an Email. Mitch called us and personally walked us through the process and made sure we had the right dog for our family. We couldn't be happier when we picked up our dog Ramsey, Erica made sure we had everything we needed and then some. They are truly amazing people who breed truly amazing dogs! Jim T.

Breeding these pooches with other types of dogs minimizes the health problems that the mutt will encounter, without sacrificing their most important trait: their absolute cuteness. Top 22 Bulldog Mix Dog Breeds: 1. They are as affectionate as Bulldogs and as fun-loving as Beagles, making them the perfect family pet. They typically weigh between 30 and 50 pounds, and they adore all life forms, including other pets. This dog is a mix between an English Bulldog and a Jack Russell Terrier, so it usually only weighs 30 pounds at most. These are big dogs, weighing as much as pounds. They tend to look like Rotties but with more of a smushed-in nose. You get a dog that tops out at about 60 pounds but is also long and lean. Bullwhip dogs love to run and have a stubborn streak, so be prepared to spend a great deal of time training them. Be careful bringing them into a home with smaller pets, though, because Whippets have a high prey drive. Mixing their genes extends their lifespan considerably, though, and these dogs often live for 12 years or more. They are massive, though, and regularly tip the scales at pounds. They can weigh up to 50 pounds and are not big fans of exercise, so be careful not to let their waistline expand too much. These dogs are usually fairly healthy, but they are prone to back problems, which makes it all the more important that you keep their weight in check. That said, these dogs are surprisingly energetic, so you may need a big backyard in order to own one. They can weigh as much as 90 pounds, so when they get the zoomies, your entire house can be vulnerable. The Bull-Aussie tends to take after their Shepherd heritage more, so expect to spend a great deal of time tuckering these dogs out. Fortunately, they love having jobs to do. They love their families and will do anything to protect them. These dogs are fairly active, but many have a brachycephalic face, which can limit their ability to breathe and dissipate heat. English Bullhuahua English Bulldog x Chihuahua A post shared by Peyton Roque peytzz To get a Bullhuahua, you have to cross English Bulldogs with Chihuahuas , and the result is a surprisingly big 40—pound lap dog. Their personalities are often friendly and welcoming, but they can have a strong territorial streak like Chihuahuas. The adorable English Bullpit, of course. Walking around at close to 90 pounds, these dogs are strong and brave and make terrific guard dogs. Oh, and be prepared for the shedding. Both parent breeds are heavy droolers, so we hope that you have a good mop. Just know that Akitas can be prone to aggression, and both breeds are known for being stubborn. Catahoula Bulldog English Bulldog x Catahoula Image Credit: haydnd, Adobe Stock Catahoula Bulldogs vary wildly in terms of size; some only weigh 40 pounds or so, while others tip the scales at over pounds. Regardless, you should have a stocky, muscular dog on your hands. These are laidback dogs, and while they enjoy a nice game of tag, they see no need for excessive amounts of exercise. English Bulldogs are typically neither of those things. They often weigh around 50 pounds and are not nearly as smart as their Poodle forebears. They make up for it by being incredibly sweet, however. They often look like a regular Bulldog that somehow got into a box of Rogaine. However, they make up for their lack of security skills with a fair amount of intelligence. They are extremely brachycephalic and are often prone to a whole host of health issues like respiratory problems, heat intolerance, and joint concerns. That generally means cutting back on their rations, because this is one breed that does not like to work out. These medium-sized 40—pound dogs are loving and sociable, but they need a ton of physical stimulation. A Mix for Everyone If you love English Bulldogs but are put off by their propensity for health problems not to mention how expensive purebred puppies can be , consider adopting one of the mixes on this list instead. Every dog listed above is cute as a button and generally healthier than a purebred English Bulldog. Plus, they still retain most of the qualities that make Bulldogs so sought after. Even better, most of these mixes are rare enough that you can have a dog that truly stands out. Nine inches tall is typical. Weight: Approximately 4—7 pounds. They are joyful, energetic, affectionate, and fiercely loyal to their families. Keep in mind, a Frorkie will have a stubborn streak. Luckily, they are highly food motivated! Unique Qualities: Despite their small size, Frorkies make excellent guard dogs. They will bark to alert home owners whenever a stranger approaches. Do they shed: Yes! Due to the long, thin hair inherited from Yorkies and the fact that French Bulldogs shed year-round, your Frorkie will most definitely be at least a moderate shedder. Hypoallergenic: Unfortunately, no. Family Friendly: If you are worried about whether or not a Frorkie is kid-friendly, know this: these little dogs are fantastic playtime pals. Just be sure to teach your kids how to interact with dogs. Gentleness is key with small breeds to prevent accident or injury. Health Issues: This designer dog comes with a handful of health issues. Further on, we will examine the biggest ones. Being half Yorkshire Terrier and half Bulldog, your Frorkie puppy will grow up to resemble both parents. Anything French Bulldog suggests that most Frorkies will be tan with black markings. Or brindle. Colors tend to be darker around the face. Eyes are always brown. In terms of body proportions, Frorkies are muscular and stocky. This is thanks to their French Bulldog heritage. Tails are straight and narrow. Lastly, Frorkies are known for that scruffy look. Expect to see some shaggy hair around the chin, perky ears, eyebrows, and between toes on the pads of their feet. Coats are soft and wavy. Both parent breeds have genetic health problems to watch out for. These include: Ear infections: Those big bat ears require lots of cleaning! Frorkies need special care when it comes to their ears. Be careful of heatstroke too. Skin Irritation: both Yorkies and Frenchies tend to be sensitive to dog foods. This can lead to allergies , dry skin, itchiness, etc. Overall, these are moderately healthy dogs. Yet to ensure a long and happy life, Frorkie parents must pay particular attention to their unique needs. Grooming and Maintenance Do you like the look of a Yorkshire Terrier, but dread the endless grooming? Good news. A Frorkie will be considerably less work than a purebred Yorkshire Terrier. PreFurred recommends weekly brushing and giving your Frorkie a bath once per month — unless the roll in something stinky, of course! The most important thing is the skin. Prevent painful infections by wiping the eyes, ears, and folds with a veterinarian approved cleaning solutions. As always make sure you take care of the teeth by brushing them daily or using these tips to keep dog teeth clean without brushing. Yes and no. Firstly, Frorkies are food motivated. They will do anything for a yummy treat. This makes obedience and trick training fairly straightforward. But Yorkshire Terriers are also notoriously challenging to potty train. It takes a lot of patience and practice to teach a Yorkie not to pee and poop inside the house. Therefore, a Frorkie might need lots of extra guidance before they learn how to go bathroom outside. Puppies, Rescues, and Adoptions Break out your wallet, dog lovers! Or you can consider adoption. While there are no Frorkie specific rescue groups, there are dozens of French Bulldog associations all around the world who work directly with families to help re-home pets. This regularly includes French Bulldog mixes, such as a Frorkie. If you desperately want a Frorkie but cannot locate a breeder, get in touch with a local Frenchie group such as French Bulldog Rescue Network. Perhaps a Frorkie will come into care, and be waiting for a loving rescuer, like you! The adoption lists for a French Bulldog Yorkie mix tend to be long. However, these one-of-a-kind dogs are so worth the wait! Since a mix can take on any combination of traits from their parents, you want to make sure you ask the breeder about the other parent breed in the mix. Should an English Bulldog Mix take after their Bulldog parent, they will be sweet-natured, affectionate, and playful dogs that love being with their families. English Bulldogs are companion breeds that are known for being sweethearts. As long as they are socialized properly, they tend to be excellent with children, other dogs, and other pets. Although watchful, they are even agreeable to strangers once they have been introduced. If the other parent breed has a similar temperament, then you should be able to expect the same from an English Bulldog Mix. You still want to talk to the breeder about the other parent as they are likely to introduce their own quirks. Meeting the mother in person can give you an idea of her temperament and the behavior she is modeling for her puppies. Although the breeder should have started some training and socialization, it is your responsibility to continue training and socializing a puppy once you get them home to ensure they grow into a well-rounded, well-behaved dog. Although English Bulldogs adapt to most living situations, they are sensitive to hot and cold, and are particularly sensitive to heat. They also do not like to be left alone for long periods of time. This makes them a moderately adaptable dog breed. The other parent breed could introduce some traits that affect adaptability so you do want to ask the breeder about them. A mix could inherit conditions common to neither of their parent breeds, one of them, or even both of them. From the English Bulldog, potential health concerns to be aware of in an English Bulldog Mix include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, Entropion, and Cherry Eye. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to prevent passing issues to puppies, so make sure you are asking about the health history of both of the parents. Although English Bulldogs can be stubborn, they are generally eager to please and are highly trainable dogs. They tend to be a good fit for owners of all experience levels and respond well to consistent training that is focused on positive reward and praise. If the other parent breed is also highly trainable, then you should be able to expect the same from an English Bulldog Mix. The other parent breed could also introduce the potential for an English Bulldog Mix that is more difficult to train. Mixed-breed dogs can inherit a coat that is a carbon copy of one of their parents or they can end up with a coat that is truly a mix of both. Should an English Bulldog Mix end up with a Bulldog coat, they will shed moderately year-round, require brushing a couple of times a week, and the occasional bath. If they have face wrinkles, you will need to make sure they are clean and dry regularly to prevent skin irritation. Cutting nails once or twice a month keeps them from growing too long. Ear checks on a weekly basis with careful ear cleanings as needed helps prevent ear infections. Daily brushing or use of an enzyme toothpaste is ideal dental care for dogs and can help prevent painful dental diseases later in life. English Bulldogs tend to be lower-energy breeds that only require daily walks and some playtime to be happy. But, they will be energetic when they play and might be up for more activity if you are. The other parent breed can affect this. If they are a low-energy breed, then you can expect an English Bulldog Mix to be the same. If the other parent breed requires more daily activity, then you will need to be prepared for that potential range in an English Bulldog Mix puppy. Because they may still be a brachycephalic dog breed, they can overheat, so you want to be careful of overexertion. There are many safe ways to exercise flat-faced dogs to help your English Bulldog Mix get the exercise they need. Fully-grown English Bulldogs usually stand inches tall and weigh pounds. The other parent breed can have a big effect on this, especially if they are the mother. An English Bulldog generally lives for years. Although the other parent breed could affect this slightly, you should be able to expect a similar life span in an English Bulldog Mix. Featured English Bulldog Mix Article. Size Life Span Yorkie Mixes are not purebred dogs, but a mixed or designer breed. Before you decide to add a Yorkie Mix to your family, you may want to research both breeds of the mother and sire. Being knowledgeable about both dog breeds in the cross will help you make an educated and fair decision. You should also research the possible breeder or rescue to be sure they are reputable and reliable. Many Yorkie Mixes have the positive characteristics of a Yorkshire Terrier. Most Yorkie Mixes are often loving, affectionate, and intelligent. They can also be headstrong, willful, and prone to barking if not trained properly. If you decide to adopt or buy a Yorkie Mix, you should educate yourself on possible training options and tips. Being well prepared for your new dog will make the transition easier for your puppy and your family. Some Yorkie Mixes may have conflicts as well. That could mean a Yorkie-pom that is more of a couch potato than a ball of energy, or a prey-driven Yorkie-poo that would rather swim in the local pond than go to the dog park. With any mixed breeds, there will be some variations. Most Yorkie Mixes are on the smaller spectrum of dog breeds. They are often happy anywhere as long as they have plenty of exercise and mental stimulation. So, if you have an apartment or condo, a Yorkie Mix could be perfect for you. Before adopting, be sure you have a few hours every day to spend with your new friend. Yorkie Mixes are incredibly loyal and loving to their owners and need to be around them whenever possible. If you have long days at the office, see if you can bring your pup to work. Otherwise, you will want to be able to come home in the middle of the day for lunch and a walk — if this is not possible, you may need to look for a more independent pup. Many mixed breeds are often healthy because they are drawing from a larger gene pool. They still need regular veterinary checks, a healthy and wholesome diet, and daily exercise. This will keep them happy and healthy. To keep them mentally occupied, you may also want to provide food puzzles and games. In doing so, they will not become bored or possibly destructive in the long run. As these pups age, they are prone to eye issues, epilepsy, skin problems, and exhaustion if overexerted or left outdoors for too long. By staying up-to-date with veterinarian visits, you may avoid many of these ailments. Yorkie Mixes are often easy to train for first-time pet owners. If you are focused and patient, you will be able to teach your pup the necessary commands in a matter of weeks. However, some dogs will be more stubborn than others. By learning about training techniques, and possibly working with a professional trainer, you will have the confidence to teach your new friend and they will be eager and happy to listen to you. Mixed Yorkie breeds often need minimal grooming. You should brush your dog, at most, every other day or at least once a week and bathe them every other month or as needed. Then, you will want to have them groomed twice a year to stay happy and comfortable as the seasons change. As a small dog breed, the Yorkie Mix is more prone to dental disease, but proper dental care for dogs can help prevent it. Your Yorkie Mix will need daily exercise that is physically and mentally stimulating. By taking them for a walk and ending with a game of fetch, they will be happier, calmer, and ready to head home and relax. A Yorkie Mix usually stands 8 to 11 inches in height and weighs 4 to 8 pounds. This mixed dog breed generally lives 12 to 16 years. Featured Yorkie Mix Article.

Our Top Recommendations 1. Read ahead of time. We felt well-educated on a plan for taking care of a puppy by reading books before Emma came home. We needed to be very hands-on and involved when Emma was here, so we were happy we already had a plan ahead of time. Planning allowed us to maximize our time with her and increase success. From Day 1, we worked on very simple training tasks with her and added more skills or increased the complexity each week. Watch your puppy like a hawk. Puppies do not know right vs. Our job is to teach Emma what she should and should not do. By watching her closely, we were maximizing success for the long term. The goal is to intervene or redirect her before she starts an undesired behavior. It is easier to provide direct supervision by using puppy gates to limit her access in the apartment. Start training from day 1. Puppies need mental and physical exercise. Puppy Training We followed a five-week training plan to cover basic obedience skills and a few fun tricks. We found each week's pace of training and structure to be highly successful in building a solid foundation. I would recommend following the training in order as each week build on the previous week starting with week 1 training. Puppy Socialization Our at-home training was supplemented with puppy socialization classes at a local training facility for Emma to be around other dogs and people. We were happy we were already registered for puppy socialization classes before Emma came home. Honestly, it is one of my favorite parts of the week. Emma always came home ready for a nap. I recommend searching in your area for puppy socialization classes by looking online, asking neighbors, or asking your vet. When Emma receives all her vaccinations, we will be out and about with her more often, which will help with socialization and provide the opportunity to continue training in various environments. We plan to visit some of the pet-friendly stores in our area. Lastly, we will sign Emma up for an obedience class to continue to work toward our goal of her becoming a therapy dog to continue our mission to spread smiles. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. This was the first time we had a chance to chart puppies from birth until 8 weeks old. We tried to take as many pictures as possible so we could have a journal of our Golden Retriever puppy growth week by week. When raising guide and service dog puppies we usually bring home our puppies at around weeks old. On occasion we are allowed to see puppies before 8 weeks of age, but they need to stay with their mother and siblings during those important early weeks to get milk and antibodies from mama and learn how to interact properly with siblings, learning important behaviors like bite inhibition. During our days as a foster we raised two litters of puppies , but both were already weeks old by the time we got them home. We actually own the Puppy Culture DVD and Workbook which includes charts, lists, worksheets and other great information for raising your litter. Keep your eyes and ears open and absorb it all like a sponge! Birth To 1 Week Old Guess what? This was the first litter we ever whelped!? We got a lot of advise, but we were largely on our own. Large Puppy Dish — great for feeding the puppies when they moved to solid food. Whelping Mats — we ordered 2 of these mats and washed them several times a day. Whelping Box — We have a homemade whelping box built by my father-in-law, but if we continue raising litters I plan on purchasing an EZWhelp Whelping Box. Our homemade box lasted three litters. We ended up purchasing the Magnabox which was hellu expensive but if you plan on raising multiple litters we highly recommend it. We recently put together a whelping checklist with all the supplies we gathered together to help out with our second litter of Golden Retriever puppies. Check out our whelping supplies checklist here. However, none were overly huge and none were extra small. No runts and no beasts. It was my understanding that when the cord was chewed down to the base of the belly it was sometimes difficult to get it to stop bleeding. I took the hemostat and pinched the umbilical cord about 2 inches from the base of the pups belly then cut the cord rather than let Raven chew it off. I kept the hemostat on the cord for about 2 minutes to let it clout. The umbilical cord dries up quickly and then within a day or 2 it falls off. Raven was a good mama and took care of her poops. Puppy eyes and ears are closed at this stage and puppies army crawl around the whelping box looking for a teat to suckle. We did everything we could to make sure our pups stayed warm by adding a watt heat lamp to the whelping box and portable heating unit in the puppy room. As I mentioned Raven stayed in the whelping box most of week 1 and of course… the puppy piles! One thing I learned is if I had a puppy on my lap then do not let Raven lick those areas or be prepared for a little accident on your lap. While caring for Raven and her litter Raven was really blowing out her coat that first week, but as time went on it slowed down. I heard from other friends this is common and that Raven blew out her coat much less than other mama dogs. We got Probiotics for Raven before her first litter, but forgot to order them for her second litter. After an upset stomach for the first week or so we realized our mistake, got Probiotics, and no more upset tummy. Week 2 — Pups eyes are opening starting to waddle. Week 3 — First bark! Week 7 — The great puppy escape artists! Week 8 — Our golden puppies head to their new homes. Have you ever had a litter of Golden Retriever puppies? Tell us about your experiences with puppies in the comment section below. Are you about to raise a litter of puppies? Not raising a litter, but getting ready to bring home your first Golden Retriever puppy? Puppies for Dummies will give you the basics on how to raise and train your new puppy. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining. Best Starter Foods for Golden Retriever Newborn month old : After your Golden Retriever puppy completes 1 month, they should be introduced to a good starter dog food which is an ideal transition from maternal milk to solid foods. These foods meet both the energy and dietary needs of the pups during their weaning phase. The starter foods can also be served to lactating mothers, fulfilling their high energy demands during the nursing period. Here are a few starter food options: 1 Royal Canin Maxi Starter Imperial Royal Canin Maxi Starter is healthfully complete starter nourishment meant exclusively for a large breed dog like Golden Retriever. It has all the significant components for keeping great wellbeing in both the lactating bitch and her little puppies. The benefits of Royal Canin Maxi Starter: The kibble rehydrates rapidly into porridge-like consistency, making it very delicious. Supports excellent digestive health. Strengthens the natural defence of both the mother and pups. Contains essential vitamins and minerals which improve cellular health and immunity. Prebiotics and probiotics in the diet assist gentle and healthy digestion. Contains lean proteins to build strong muscle mass. Consists of natural ingredients that support a higher nutrient absorption and a healthy bowel activity. Consequently, they should be fed at least three times each day. A typical Golden Retriever Puppy consumes around calories a day. Nutritional Requirements of Golden Retriever Puppy 1. Having a good measure of fats in their diet gives them a consolidated energy source for keeping up a functioning way of life. The unsaturated fats too help to brace their skin health. Omega Fatty Acids: Omega 3 and Omega 6 essential fatty acids are vital elements in their diet for keeping strong bones and joints. It also offers good anti-inflammatory effect, that reduces pain and swelling in the joints. The kibble size and shape perfectly adapts to the jaws of a puppy Golden Retriever. Consists of natural fibres to promote excellent digestion in pups. Anti-oxidants build a strong defence mechanism in the pups. The benefits of Orijen Puppy Large Breed: Biologically appropriate food that maintains supreme health and wellbeing in pups. Infusions of freeze-dried chicken and turkey liver make the food highly palatable. Natural sources of Glucosamine and Chondroitin keep strong muscles and joints. Clinically proven anti-oxidants maintain a strong immunity in puppies. Unlike puppies, most grown up Golden Retrievers are satisfied with 2 meals per day. Taurine keeps good cardiac function and also healthy eyesight in the dogs. Contains dietary fibres that keep healthy gut and excellent digestive functioning. Extensive protein content to enhance muscle mass and strength. High quality meat and rice offering greater taste and nutritional value. The low glycemic index of the food eliminates obesity and diabetes in the dogs. Pumpkin as an ingredient regulates intestinal motility. They become less active and therefore a little vulnerable to obesity. It is critical to nourish them with low-calorie sustenance as it keeps an ideal body weight and consequently puts less pressure on the joints. Also owing to their low exercise requirements, they only consume around Calories daily. Low Carbohydrate Content: A diet that has low carbs keeps a healthy blood sugar level in the dog, thus eliminating diabetes and obesity. High Fibre Content: Nature Fibres are essential for Senior Golden Retrievers for keeping an ideal body weight and excellent digestive health. Glucosamine and Chondroitin: Having traces of Glucosamine and Chondrotin in the diet of a senior Golden Retriever, alleviate pain produced in bones and joints. Best Foods For Senior Golden Retrievers 1 Orijen Senior Food In case you are searching for organically proper sustenance that has a low glycemic record that keeps diabetes and obesity at bay in your senior Golden Retrievers, you can have Orijen Senior Food which is effectively the best eating regimen for senior Golden Retrievers. A low carb content keeps an ideal weight and a healthy blood sugar level. Highly delicious meal having fresh Free Run Chicken and Turkey tempts the fussiest of eaters. It comprises of edible protein supporting pure osmosis of supplements and furthermore has L-Carnitine which consumes the abundance of fat stores in the body. The ideal ratio of Omega 3 and Omega 6 controls blood clotting and maintains the health and sheen of the coat. Essential vitamins and minerals keep a robust immune system. Below are some of the foods that should not be given to a Golden Retriever: 1. Raw Eggs.

Twitter LinkedIn First, A boxer is a boxer whether they are deaf or not. A deaf boxer needs the same things a hearing boxer needs. They just need it in a different way. Just like humans rely on other senses when one is impaired- dogs do the same, they compensate. Deaf boxers utilize vibration and movement to determine what you are saying. He is also loveable and very playful and smart, as you would expect from any boxer. He has carefully placed black spots that looks like a kid started to paint him. One spot on each eye, a tiny drip on his ear and a splash on his nubbin. He has an over-sized tongue that hangs out of the side of his mouth… almost always. He can give a bit of attitude and stubbornness as a typical boxer. Take out all the words deaf from this description — would you know that he is deaf? Probably not, right? I think most people forget that we teach our boxers our language whether it be English, Spanish, French, or Sign. Here are 4 quick tips on how to train a deaf boxer: Be Clear and Concise when you Communicate. Teach your boxer sign language. For example, tap your boxer once always use the same spot to let them know to watch you and that you need to communicate. More signs , can be found here. Consistency and repetition are key. Use Positive Reinforcement! Remember you are training with your hands by signing, so you should never use your hands to punish! Dogs have an incredible sense of smell, use it to your advantage! Safety Proof the Environment! Use a kennel or crate for your boxer when they are alone. Make sure your yard is secure. And always use a leash when walking a deaf dog. You should also use a collar that indicates the dog is deaf, in the event that your boxer is lost or so anyone you approach knows your boxer is deaf see it here. Use night lights -dark and deaf would be scary to you and it is to a boxer as well. Socialize Your Boxer. The more you socialize your boxer with touch, the better. This teaches them not to be startled by touch. Make sure you do this in all environments. Use vibrations to help alert your boxer, such as touching their bed when they are sleeping and walking heavily when you enter a room. Here is a great book that gives great training techniques and is very useful. Always remember that your deaf boxer is a part of your family. They love, they wiggle, and they FEEL just like any other boxer. Thank you to James Lee and his family for sharing such a beautiful description of Cassius and for all the adorable pictures as well. This is largely due to the fact that for many years, a white coat was a death sentence for a boxer puppy, and breeders routinely killed their white puppies. However, white boxers are wonderful dogs, as beautiful and fun as their fawn and brindle counterparts! The vast majority of them suffer no disability as a result of their coloration, and those that do can still enjoy a long and happy life with just a little accommodation. Below you will find answers to some frequently asked questions about white and deaf boxers. White Boxers Q: Are white boxers rare? A: White boxers are not rare. Q: Are white boxers a recent development in the breed? A: White boxers have been around as long as boxers have, and though it is not considered appropriate to breed them today, they were even included in early German boxer breeding programs. A: No. Albinos completely lack pigment in their skin, hair, or eyes. White boxers have mostly unpigmented fur, but they typically have dark noses, dark eyes, and patches of pigmented skin under their fur. White boxers are not the result of any genetic birth defect; they are genetically normal dogs who have white fur. Q: Are white boxers deaf? A: White boxers are more likely to be born deaf than are fawn or brindle boxers, but even still, the majority of white boxers can hear. There are no definitive figures regarding the incidence of deafness in white boxers. Q: Do white boxers have special health considerations? A: Some people claim that white boxers have a higher risk of developing cancer than do fawn or brindle boxers, but this has never been proven to be true. White boxers, do, however, sunburn more easily, and sun exposure can contribute to skin cancer. Using doggie sunscreen, putting a t-shirt on your white boxer, and, of course, limiting sun exposure during the midday can help reduce their risk of sunburn. Q: Do white boxers behave differently than colored boxers? A: White boxers are exactly the same in temperament as their fawn and brindle siblings. Q: Can white boxers be registered with the AKC? A: While the AKC does not recognize the use of white boxers for breeding, they do offer an American Kennel Club Limited Registration and will assign the dog an AKC number for use in performance events, such as obedience and agility. Any puppies produced by a dog with a limited registration will be denied registration by the AKC. Deafness in Boxers Q: What causes deafness in boxers? A: While many dogs acquire some degree of hearing loss with age, congenital deafness in boxers is usually caused by the lack of pigmented skin in the inner ear, resulting in the atrophy of nerve endings within a few weeks of birth. Congenital deafness in white boxers is not associated with any other health issues. Q: Are deaf boxers trainable? A: Yes, deaf boxers are trainable. Dogs born deaf also are very attuned to other stimuli around them, like vibrations in the floor and changes of light, and you can take advantage of these stimuli for training purposes. Deaf dogs are as trainable as any other, but they may require that you learn new techniques and skills. Q: Can I take my deaf dog on off-leash walks? A: As a general rule, deaf boxers should never be allowed off-leash in unenclosed areas. Since they will not hear you if you call them, you must remain in physical control of your deaf dog anytime there is a danger of him running off or getting into trouble. Q: Are deaf boxers aggressive? A: Deaf boxers, like hearing boxers, have individual personalities, and they are not more likely to be aggressive than any other dog. Some people worry that deaf boxers will react aggressively if they are startled by touch. However, deaf dogs are accustomed to their disability, and just because it is easier to surprise a deaf dog does not mean the dog will respond inappropriately when startled. Additionally, deaf dogs can and should be desensitized to touch using positive reinforcement. Deaf dogs adapt well to their disability and do not necessarily require another dog whose lead they can follow. Oftentimes, any new dog hearing or deaf will follow the lead of a pre-existing dog hearing or deaf in a household. If you do this exercise often, soon your deaf dog will constantly check in with you all the time. When Nitro is playing at our local dog park, he constantly checks in with me by looking in my direction and making eye contact. Christina training deaf puppy Nitro in Gander Mountain. Notice how Nitro keeps his eyes on her at all times? He constantly checks in for direction and information. To see Recall Training tips, please click here. So this is great training for deaf and hearing dogs alike. Remember all dogs are visual and they watch and respond to our body language very carefully. Your first goal is to get your dog to pay attention and eye contact is key. Make sure you start with a high value treat. I point at my nose each time. When your dog makes eye contact with you, give him a flash of your hand I do a three finger flash so I can hold the treat in my hand and flash at the same time or a thumbs up sign and then treat him immediately. This exercise also helps him not pay any attention to distractions by other dogs and people in our training class. The same method can also be incorporated into your vibration collar training if you chose to use one. The same rule applies. When you press the vibrate button and he makes eye contact, you immediately give an open flash of your hand to positively mark the correct response from the dog and then the treat the pup with a high value treat. Repeat, repeat, repeat! Repetition is key in this exercise. This way you can gradually wean the dog off of treats by conditioning your deaf dog to constantly check in and make eye contact with you. With enough repetition, you will see your dog watching you all the time because eventually it will just become a habit. Note from Christina at Deaf Dogs Rock: I am not a licensed dog trainer and I can only give you training advice on what has worked for my deaf dog Nitro and I over the past year. We do take obedience classes at Field of Dreams Dog Training Center and they have taught us everything we know. Congenital deafness is most commonly caused by a lack of pigmentation of the skin, and the unpigmented skin in the inner ear causes the nerve endings to die in the dog's first few weeks of life. There are definitely some downsides to having a deaf dog; I cannot give him a command if he is not looking at me, he is extremely visual and he finds it harder to read dogs as he cannot hear their vocal cues. But there are also positives; we never have to do any noise desensitisation work and people can baby talk him all they like! However, all things considered there is no reason why a deaf dog cannot live the same quality of life as a hearing dog, and training them is not as different as it may initially seem. They have only lost one of the five senses, and all the basic rules of dog training still apply. Leash pressure Proper leash pressure and release is very important to communicate effectively with a deaf dog. However, I rely on it a lot more to direct Harley and if the lead didn't mean anything to him, or if he had been conditioned that it meant the "wrong" thing ie ignore leash pressure or lean against it , I would have lost another important communication tool. The same can be said of spatial pressure, the principles are exactly the same as with a hearing dog, and any well-trained dog should be respectful and move when you move into their space. But again, I rely on this a lot more to move Harley around. If he did not move when I put pressure on him by walking into his space I would struggle to communicate with him without a lead. I use spatial pressure, along with pointing my finger to direct him to where I would like him to go, and this means that I can use this as a way of asking him to place on objects or go to bed. Physical touch Because Harley cannot hear, his other senses are heightened, and an example of this is how he knows when I have come home without being able to see or hear me. This is firstly because he has a great sense of smell especially for a boxer! He is also a lot more responsive to being touched than the average dog. I am therefore able to use this as another way to train him - he has been conditioned that when he feels a tap on the shoulder I am asking for his attention and that he should turn to look at me, at which point I can then give him a command. Hand signals I communicate with Harley using hand signals. Just like verbal commands, you can choose absolutely any signal and pair it with a behaviour that you want to be able to ask for on cue. A lot of Harley's hand signals are very discrete, but it is important that they are clear and distinct from one another to avoid confusion. It is also important that they are not commonly used by people in day-to-day life; the last thing I would want is for a stranger to wave their hands around and Harley think that this is his cue to run over to them! The key to a well-trained deaf dog is engagement. If Harley did not check in with me often then the hand signals would be redundant, and so I always ensure that I reward Harley when he chooses to make eye contact with me. This is particularly important around other people and dogs; I need him to look at me so that I can recall him if needed, and through repetition he now automatically stops and comes back to me in these scenarios without a hand signal. The actual teaching of the hand signal is not dissimilar to teaching a verbal command. With dogs that can hear, the first thing we do is ask for the command verbally and then guide them with the lead, and perhaps lure them with a treat to encourage them into the position. With a deaf dog, all you need to do is replace the verbal command with a hand signal. However, I often repeat the hand signal on completion of the behaviour, followed by a thumbs up to let Harley know that he has done the right thing. The reason for this is because I want to be extremely clear and ensure that Harley has seen the hand signal and associates it with the behaviour he has just completed. Harley's commands are as follows: This is the command for sit - palm facing upwards. Down - two fingers pointing down. I have taught Harley to recall and sit next to me on whichever side I ask. I put one hand out as shown above and he knows to recall to that side and then turn into the heel position and sit. I can then either release him or walk forward with him in a heel position by tapping my leg with my palm. I use the "ok" sign to tell Harley that he can finish what he is doing and have some free time. Then, in addition to these basic commands, Harley also knows "front" and "middle". This is a "front" command, where Harley sits directly in front of me looking up. This is the middle command, where he goes in between my legs and stays there as I walk around. Drop and get it Get it: if you know Harley you know how much he likes a game. To give him his "get it" command I have my hand in a fist and then I flash it open and close it again. To tell Harley to drop, I hold my hand up horizontally, with the back of my hand facing him. This is Harley's command for "enough" - which I usually use when playing a game or when I ask him to stop playing with another dog. This isn't an essential command but because he is very visual and prey driven, without this command he would constantly be waiting for the next "get it" signal. This is therefore a helpful way of telling him that the game has ended and to settle down. Good boy I give Harley a thumbs up to tell him when he is doing a good job. This is equivalent to verbal praise, and I find that it holds a lot more value to him than rewarding him with physical touch because he is so visual. Now, if you have trained with us you will know that we do not use the words "no" or "ah ah" because rather than telling your dog not to do something, we would much rather tell them what to do instead such as "quiet" or "leave it". With a deaf dog this would translate to having multiple hand signals when the principle of what I want to tell him is the same: "stop performing that behaviour". In this context, having a generalised command for "no" is extremely helpful. Having a deaf dog is not so different as you may think If you did not pay attention you probably wouldn't even notice that Harley is deaf. His training allows him the same freedoms as any other dog including being allowed off lead, and for a young dog as bouncy and energetic as Harley this is an absolute lifesaver! Do not be put off if you ever have the opportunity to take on a deaf dog. The principles of training are exactly the same and it is extremely rewarding to know that you are ensuring that their lives do not have to be restricted in any way. We are always here to help and if you would like to know more about training a deaf dog let us know! Recent Posts.

Both parents come from a 5-generation pedigree. Mother is IKC registered. Grandparents and great grandparents are field trial champions. Father is a strong, chunky Labrador with an excellent breeding background, he was never registered but both grandparents were IKC reg. Both mother and father are cherished family pets, live together and can be seen. Parents are gentle natured, excellent with kids and have great personalities. Owners are vets themselves. This is our first and last litter as we are not breeders. We wanted to keep a line from both parents which was the motivation to have a litter. Our beautiful puppies are happy, healthy, and very confident. They have a fantastic temperament. Pups have been raised in our family home ensuring they have been well socialised with kids and other animals such as cats. These confident puppies are extremely intelligent and will be easy to train! They are already semi-toilet trained and have great re-call. Puppies are very affectionate and loved by all the family hence we are only looking for suitable home as a family pet or loyal companion. All pups are - Vet health checked - Vaccinated - Microchipped - Wormed at 2,4,6 and 8 weeks - Treated for fleas and mites. Pups will be ready to go to their forever homes from September 17th. For more information or to arrange to view the puppies please call or email me on or megandoherty00 gmail. If I do not answer please leave a message and I will get back to you. Thank you! The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics". The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary". The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance". It does not store any personal data. Functional Functional Functional cookies help to perform certain functionalities like sharing the content of the website on social media platforms, collect feedbacks, and other third-party features. Performance Performance Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors. Analytics Analytics Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc. Advertisement Advertisement Advertisement cookies are used to provide visitors with relevant ads and marketing campaigns. These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads. Others Others Other uncategorized cookies are those that are being analyzed and have not been classified into a category as yet.

Part of that responsibility includes doing everything possible to assure their well being after they go to a new home. While all quality dog foods will provide everything needed to sustain life, virtually all of them are cooked during the manufacturing process. The heat from cooking causes much of the nutrients to be lost during the process. NuVet Plus is cold processed allowing all of the benefits of its rich nutrients to be retained, giving your new puppy an extra layer of protection, especially during the most critical first year of life. When a puppy is moved away from its mother and siblings to live with its new family, the immune system is weakened by the stress of adoption and exposure to bacteria and viruses in its new home. So starting NuVet Plus now is important to helping your puppy grow into a healthy adult. The vaccine series is also started during this time period. Vaccines are only effective if the immune system can respond properly. If the immune system is distracted by combating an actual disease processor and it does not receive the nutrients required to keep it strong during times of stress, the health of the puppy is at risk. The best way to prevent illness during this critical time is to provide the nutritional support required for proper immune system function. About NuVet Plus - NuVet Plus is a synergistic combination of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals known to boost immune system function. FDA registered pharmaceutical laboratory, and cold processed to maximize the potency of the nutrients. NuVet Labs has been in business since and has never had a product recall. Additional information may be found on the NuVet Labs website www. NuVet Plus for Canines and NuVet Plus for Felines provide the very best human-grade, natural ingredients available, and utilize the latest advances in medical, veterinary, and nutritional science. NuVet Plus is not available in stores or directly to the general public. You can only purchase NuVet Plus when you get a recommendation only from a pet professional. Made with Real Chicken Liver. Pug Health Issues Before you get your perfect puppy, are you really sure that you want a Pug? As a Pug owner, you should be prepared for a lot of trips to the vet. Their unique size and shape make them prone to a whole load of medical problems. Essentially, Pugs are bred to be deformed, which causes them to have health issues. Surgery is usual for severe cases. They are also in danger of becoming dislodged and will need to be manipulated back into the socket. Eyelash problems are common causing corneal ulcers , as are cataracts and PRA progressive retinal atrophy is the name for a group of diseases or conditions that eventually cause blindness. The skin folds and creases also store dirt and bacteria, leading to infections. Brachycephalic dogs are prone to collapse if they exert themselves too much or are exposed to high temperatures, which can be fatal. These are a few problems you might encounter, but they are by no means guaranteed. On top of this, the poor Pug has a hard time right from the start. Despite all of this, the Pug still has a long lifespan of between 12 and 15 years, sometimes more! They will perform health testing on all their parent dogs, but you can never rule out the possibility that your pup will be affected. What Is A Reputable Breeder? A good question! You can usually tell from the lack of dollar signs in their eyes. An unscrupulous and unethical breeder just wants your cash. No pup should ever leave its mother before it is 8 weeks old, and the best breeders keep their pups until they are between 10 and 12 weeks of age. Reputable breeders do it purely for the love of the breed, and rarely do they ever profit from it. This is a good sign in itself, as it shows that they really care about what kind of home and environment their pup is heading to. The last thing that a puppy mill or puppy broker will do is tell you to read the small print carefully or to visit a rescue center and adopt a homeless dog instead of buying from them. Good breeders will do exactly the opposite! Reputable breeders rarely, if ever, keep their dogs in kennels, choosing to treat them as family members instead. They often live in the family home and are as pampered as any other well-loved pet. If you still want one of your own, then good for you! Because of the long list of potential health issues, the Pug is not always the best choice for first-time dog owners. Pet insurance is probably a good idea to help with the vet bills, as this can quickly become a real financial burden. The best way to limit the risk is to use a reputable breeder! Toilet training can be a slow and frustrating process. Then there are all the health problems you might have to deal with. They also shed — a lot. And they are often desperately clingy. The term velcro dog was invented just for them. Aside from regular brushing to get rid of the hair! Not familiar with this aspect? Of course, you can get your vet to do this, but it incurs extra expense. Pugs are known for their short bursts of energy. Aside from this, life with a Pug is a piece of cake! You passed the Pug test. Having a dog is very responsible, and one of those responsibilities is to walk the dog. Read the basics, how to walk your four-legged friend. In some cases, the roundworm can form a big ball, which blocks the intestines, which further leads to the death of a pet. According to experienced professionals, puppies faster and better adapted to carry. Unfortunately, many lightly attributable to the acquisition of the future family member and have only a superficial understanding of the rules of the content pet in the apartment. As a result of Dog in the house Dog - a real one, with the advent of each person whose life is changed. Someone enjoys wonderful moments spent with the animal, someone eventually get tired of careful care of them. Anyway, the pet will always meet his master with eyes filled with love an How to take care of a rising puppy If you have a puppy of a small breed, it will be easier to take care of it. You will need a comb and a small brush. If your four-month puppy has already overgrown grown-up pet dogs and continues to grow rapidly, now while walking you have to handle its to please choose. Why Is My Dog Shaking? Dogs are known for their loyalty and companionship, but when they start shaking, it can be a cause for concern for pet owners. Shaking in dogs can be a sign of various issues, from dog anxiety and dog fear to dog medical conditions. In this blog post, we will explore the common causes of a dog shaking and what pet owners can do to identify and treat the problem. We will also offer tips for preventing dog shaking and ensuring.By doing regular grooming at home, you can help your dog look its best between visits to the groomer. You also get to bond more closely and build stronger trust with your dog. Routine grooming sessions will keep your dog clean and feeling fresh, but it will also.Their personality is lively, their nature fun-loving, and their disposition affectionate. As even-tempered, sweet, and playful dogs, Pugs make wonderful playmates for kids of all ages and lovely companion pets for couples, singles, and seniors. These little joy bringers love to cuddle and are generous with their Pug love. When it comes to their family, Pugs attach like magnets. They are known to happily shadow their humans in every activity and are just as happy lazing on the couch all day as they are going for a long evening stroll around the neighborhood. You will be able to find all their current contact information, as well as a link to their website, so you can see what puppies they currently have available for sale. We provide you with all this information so that you can research each breeder individually and find the one that has your perfect puppy available! If you are considering getting a Pug, you'll want to check out the incredible book "The Complete Guide to Pugs". It's written in an easy-to-understand way but still has the expert knowledge to help any new owner successfully raise their Pug from puppy to old-age. It's widely available, so pick up a copy if you see one, here is the link to grab one on Amazon, or you can download the audiobook version here. If you can't find the perfect Pug puppy in your state, try checking at your local animal shelter or rescue organization. Many Pugs young and old need a loving home and adopting one can be a great way to save a life. We are so happy that you have chosen Local Puppy Breeders to help you find the puppy of your dreams. In addition to visiting us often here, you can check us out on Facebook , Twitter , and Pinterest for more information, pictures, and videos! Website: pug-puppy. At pug-puppy. This is a family of Pug lovers who are about the advancement of the Pug breed as well as the health and wellbeing of each and every one of their pups. The family lives and raises their Pugs on a one-acre plot with plenty of room for running and playing. They even teach their Pugs to swim! All of their Pugs are fed a healthy diet of quality food and vitamins and have the freedom to play with lots of toys. When you purchase a pup from pug-puppy. They love their dogs and show commitment to the betterment of the breed in everything they do. But how can you spot reputable breeders when you start searching for a Pug puppy? Here are some tips to help you out. A good breeder will… 1. Issue a health guarantee Make sure that your breeder of choice offers a health guarantee. A reputable Pug breeder will write up a binding health guarantee for all of their puppies. The guarantee protects you against any genetic defects or diseases. It shows that the breeder is confident that their puppies are bred according to best practices. This means if you can no longer look after your pup for some reason, you will be expected to return the puppy to the breeder rather than taking them to a shelter. Provide standard health clearances Your breeder should have full health clearances for both parent Pugs. Good breeders often provide some early health-check clearances for their pups too, although some health clearances simply cannot be carried on such young pups. Issue a written bill of sale Reputable breeders offer written bills of sale to all of their new Pug parents. This bill of sale should be signed and will outline all the roles and responsibilities to be taken on by the buyer and seller as part of the transaction. Vaccinate their puppies All puppies should be up to date on their vaccinations before being homed with new families. Your breeder of choice should be able to provide evidence of these vaccinations. Reputable breeders welcome prospective parents into their homes to see the puppies. Follow age guidelines Puppies should never leave the litter before 8 weeks of age. Any breeder offering pups for adoption before this time is not following best practices. In fact, this could be quite damaging for the puppy developmentally. A reputable breeder will keep their pups at home until eight to twelve weeks so that they can be properly socialized and spend that crucial time with their mother and litter-mates. Answer your questions Last, but not least, a reputable breeder will be knowledgeable. In most cases, they will also want to ask you plenty of questions to ensure that their precious pups are going to good homes. We have a strict selection process that takes a variety of factors into account. That way we can ensure that only the best breeders end up on our lists. This way we know that our chosen breeders offer genetically sound and healthy puppies. Health testing shows a commitment to the health and wellbeing of each Pug. Contact information Any breeder that does not offer up their contact information is a big red flag. A reputable breeder will make it easy for you to get in contact with them by providing telephone numbers, email addresses, and they will usually have a well-established website as well. It shows a commitment to breeding best practices. Event participation Breeders who also compete in doggie events are often some of the best. Because these people tend to be dog lovers par excellence. They live and breathe for their Pugs and are proud to show them off in public. They are also more likely to have a high level of breed knowledge — an excellent sign for a breeder. Breed club membership There are lots of breed clubs out there that breeders can register with. These clubs have rules, regulations, and membership fees. If your breeder is registered with the Pug Dog Club of America, this is a great sign showing commitment to the Pug breed. Recognition awards Lastly, we look out for awards! Institutions like the AKC recognize the efforts and achievements of top breeders. The very best will be awarded the AKC recognition of merit award. During this time we recommend getting everything ready before your new arrival rattles through the front door. Your puppy will need: a crate for sleeping and training during the early days quality puppy-grade food a leash and harness plenty of toys You may also wish to purchase a puppy gate if there are areas of your home that you want to keep your Pug away from. This is all about making your home as safe as possible for your new arrival. Make sure anything that could potentially cause harm to your pup is removed. Clear your schedule Having a Pug puppy is a bit like having a human baby. So make sure to clear your schedule and get all of those errands done ahead of time! Once they arrive… 4. Avoid crowds Hold your excitement. That means no crowds. Try to keep the home environment as stress-free as possible so that your puppy can settle in and start to feel part of the family. Crate training is the first step. Lay down a regular routine from the get to and your Pug will be good as gold in no time.

Top Picks For Our Dogs Preparing Your Home For A Puppy You should treat the preparation of your home for the arrival of a new puppy in much the same way as you would for the arrival of a baby because the process is almost identical. You must be ready to provide every little thing your puppy needs in life, making sure they have water, are fed, comfortable, happy, catered for and safe. To achieve this there are 4 main things that you need to do: Go shopping for equipment and supplies Puppy proof your home and garden to make sure your puppy stays safe Set up an area for your puppy to sleep and spend time in when you cannot supervise them Decide on the rules and routines required to successfully raise a puppy Without such preparation, things will be difficult. A Nutritious Puppy Food The most important supply needed for a new puppy is a highly nutritious puppy food. Hopefully your puppy came from a responsible breeder who was feeding them a high quality, complete and nutritious food. If so, you should ask what they were feeding, stock up on and continue feeding this if possible. If not, then puppies are incredibly active, growing fast and developing bone, muscle and more every day. Because of this they need almost double the calories, more protein and have different nutritional needs to mature adult dogs. Furthermore, they have far smaller mouths than adult dogs so puppy food comes in smaller chunks more suited to their size. Click here to see our recommendations for the best puppy food for labs Bowls for Food And Water There is a bewildering array of dog bowl choices out there so choosing the best can be difficult. Looks and design aside, I recommend going for stainless steel bowls because they are long-lasting, cannot be chewed and are very easy to clean. I also recommend buying bowls with heavy rubber bottoms so they stay rooted to the spot and are harder to spill or flip over. Unless of course you buy bowls in a stand, then these problems are already solved. A Puppy Crate And Bedding A good crate is one of the most beneficial things you can provide for the good of yourself and your puppy. First of all, supply some bedding to place inside for your puppy to sleep on. My recommendation for this is VetBed. Many puppies can chew and ingest normal bedding which can result in medical emergencies and VetBed is the most durable bedding on the market. During these times you need to provide a larger, but still safe enclosure to confine your puppy. You might also like to buy a plastic sheet and some puppy pads or use lots of old newspaper for them to use as a potty in your absence. Puppy Chew Toys Puppies chew. A lot. And they seem to prefer chewing phones, footwear and TV remotes more than anything else. Just make sure whatever toys you do buy are suitable for a puppy as many will be too large for their little mouths to begin with. Interactive Puppy Toys So you can play games with your puppy, provide exercise and mental stimulation, you will want to buy a few toys that encourage the two of you to interact. Balls for throwing and chasing, soft toys and ropes for playing tug, other toys for fetch, there are many available. You will also need a collar to provide a place to attach an all important ID tag. ID Tag An ID tag is an essential means to be reunited with your puppy should the worst happen and you somehow lose them or they run away. Clicker A clicker is an extremely useful tool used during training as a reward marker that dramatically improves the timing of communication between you and your puppy when you want to reward a behavior. Although not essential, I do highly recommend you use one. Puppy Training Treats Tasty food treats are the go-to reward used during training so you will want to make sure you always have a good stock at hand. They need to feel happy with being bathed, happy having their coat and teeth brushed, their feet touched, nails clipped and having their eyes and ears inspected. To do so, you should fake going the process, getting them used to being handled, the sight and feel of the tools and so on. To achieve this, you will need to buy and get them used to the following items: Dog shampoo Combs and brushes suitable for a Labrador Scissors Cotton balls Toothbrush Use these tools right away and often, and give your puppy praise and tasty treats as you go so they form positive associations with grooming. Puppy Proof Your Home and Garden The process of puppy proofing your home is very much like baby proofing before the arrival of a child. Except a puppy is far more curious, active and destructive and can get themselves into far more trouble. A puppy is a new-born. Everything is a toy and they will run and pounce and jump and chew on anything in their environment. So before you bring your puppy home you simply must make it safe for them. For things you cannot move skirting boards, table legs etc. To keep them safe while still providing an area for them to play in and stretch their legs, you want to restrict their access to a single room, or otherwise create an enclosed space for them. To do so, either buy a pet barrier or baby gate that goes across a doorway to restrict them to an easy to clean and safe room, or buy an exercise pen puppy pen to create an enclosed space in another room. I also strongly recommend buying a crate for many reasons, but initially, mostly just to provide the perfect place for them to sleep. I shall discuss crate training a little later in this article. All of this must be decided BEFORE you get your puppy home because consistency is a key part of raising a puppy successfully. Everyone must enforce and live by the same rules for your puppy to thrive. Initially they have no idea how you want them to behave, or how and when they can expect the things they want and need in life. The more consistent everybody is with the puppy, the quicker they will learn all this stuff and the happier everyone will be. So decide and write down if necessary when your puppy will have all their needs met, make sure everybody knows who is responsible for each task and make sure everybody knows the rules. You might think the collection and journey home with your new puppy is no big deal, but there are many things can go wrong. Therefore, you should never take a puppy before 8 weeks old. During the first 8 weeks, a puppy learns a lot from their mother and litter-mates: Bite inhibition, canine body language, acceptable play and interaction with other dogs and how to accept discipline. Things you will find it very hard to teach them later yourself. The flip side of this is that the 7 to 14 week stage is the most impressionable for a puppy, where they bond strongest with people and must be socialized to all the sights, sounds and smells of the world so they grow up confident and comfortable with their surroundings. So anyway, for the journey home there a few things you need to consider: Safety in the car, the need for water and toilet breaks and the possibility your puppy will be sick. Having a loose puppy in the car presents a very real danger of leading to a crash, they can easily climb out of a box and now is not the time to use a harness and car safety belt. If the crate is small enough you can place it on a front or rear passenger seat and secure it with the seat-belt, or you may have to place it in the trunk of your car. Fully line the crate with absorbent paper in case there are any accidents, this will keep most of the mess off your puppy and make cleaning easier. And finally, place a chew toy or two in the crate to keep your puppy occupied. If you have another person to help you, your puppy can ride home in their lap if the journey is short. They must be under your passengers control. They will also need to potty every half or so. Therefore, you should plan breaks along the way every 30 minutes or so. Stop the car, allow them to drink, then wait for them to wee before setting off again. When you stop, make sure your puppy is on leash and tightly held by someone before letting them out of the car. And as an extra precaution, carry your puppy and only put them down to do their business, then carry them back into the car. Take with you some towels, plastic bags, kitchen roll and deodorizer to take care of any accidents. And when driving, take all corners slowly, and accelerate and brake gently. If your puppy is on a passengers lap, they will be able to see some warning signs that puppy is about to be sick: Their lips will curl, they will excessively salivate and then eventually start to heave. When your passenger spots these signs, they can place a thick towel beneath the puppy to catch everything and avoid a mess in your vehicle. When bringing home a new puppy, make sure you collect them and then drive straight home. Your puppy is having the most stressful day of their short life so far, try not to make it harder than it already is by taking them to strange places and passing them around to strangers to say hello. You want to get them home quickly so they can start the process of settling in as soon as possible. Whether this is inside on paper, or a spot outside, as soon as you arrive home carry them there, set them down and wait for them to do their business before doing anything else. This might take 30 seconds or it might take 10 minutes, but patiently wait and when they go, praise them profusely. Well done! Shut them in another room away from the puppy as things are intense enough as it is. Explain they have to be calm and gentle during the first introductions. Let them sniff and look around, getting used to the area and their new little world. You can now let people come and say hello. Have people sit or kneel to greet them. Once everybody has said hello, you should stay with your puppy, show interest but stay calm. Allow Your Puppy To Sleep After all the excitement, stress, massive change and huge amount of mental stimulation your puppy has just been through, they will likely need to sleep soon after arriving at your home. So as soon as they either start to look tired, or the introductions to their new living space and family have ended whichever comes first put them to bed for a short while. On the other hand they might feel completely overwhelmed, retreat into themselves and show reluctance to explore. They might slink into a corner silently and sit there watching their new world with wonder but apprehension, before falling asleep for hours. And when it comes to the first night they might sleep right through, or they might cry and whine the whole night. As your puppy begins to get used to everything, their character will start to shine through and you will begin to see their true personalities. Exactly what this will be is different for every puppy…it will be fun for you to find out! And by being the provider of everything they need in life, giving them all that is good, it will only take 2 or 3 days for your puppy to learn to love you and get excited and happy to see you when you turn up. So your task is to set up and stick to these schedules, begin training your puppy and help them to learn how you want them to behave and when they can expect the things they need in life. What should you feed your puppy You should feed your puppy the same food they had at the breeders because an abrupt change in diet almost always leads to stomach upset. Complete and balanced means it has everything a puppy needs, and in the right quantities. So seek out this kind of wording and check the internet for other owners reviews. Puppies need to eat a lot because their rate of growth is very high. For puppies up to 12 weeks, you should divide their daily requirement into 4 portions, for puppies 12 to 26 weeks, feed them 3 times per day and from 26 weeks on feed them twice per day. You should also aim to feed them as close as you can to the same times every day and evenly spaced throughout the day. This will help their body clocks fall into a pattern and will help your house training immensely because they then potty the same times every day. For example: 8 to 12 weeks old, 4 times a day at AM, AM, PM and PM 12 to 26 weeks old, 3 times a day at AM, PM and PM 26 weeks old and ongoing, 2 times a day at and Obviously you can adjust these times to take into account when you get out of bed and to fit around your life. Also… The first few nights have the crate or exercise pen your puppy sleeps in placed in your bedroom. One night move the crate next to the bedroom door. The next night move it outside the door, but leave the door open so they can still see you. The next night further into the hallway. Finally to their eventual resting place. They might take to sleeping on their own OK, they might whine and cry. NEVER go to them to comfort them if they cry, you must only get up to take them to potty and then silently and without fuss put them back into the crate. Rewarding silence and ignoring noise is the only way they will eventually learn to be quiet at night themselves. Any time you cannot closely supervise them, you have to confine them, either in their crate, an exercise pen or a puppy proofed room secured with a barrier across the doorway. The point of confining them as a puppy is so they can enjoy all the freedom in the world once they are an adult. By confining them with treat dispensing chew toys they get rewarded for chewing the right things and develop a chew toy obsession. Confine them now, they form a good chew toy obsession and have no chance of developing bad chewing habits. Then once they are over their adolescent chewing stage you slowly open up the house to them and eventually they can have free roam and be completely trusted. A little sacrifice when young for a better life later. And a second hugely important reason for confining your puppy when you cannot supervise them is for speedier house training. In fact if you read my comments from earlier, you will see you start the very first moment you finish the journey home. In essence, house training is about creating good habits while avoiding bad ones and for the speediest success you want to start immediately. Wherever your puppy is able to potty has the chance of becoming their favored toilet spot for many weeks or months to come. So you want to prevent them pottying inside, and encourage them to potty outside. The main ingredients of a successful house training program are preventing mistakes and praising heavily for doing the right thing. Achieving this is all about schedules, supervision and confinement. Now, your puppy will need to potty anywhere from every 15 to 45 minutes. So to start with, take them outside every 30 minutes and adjust this schedule to suit their natural rhythm. You must also take them outside immediately after they wake up from any sleep, after any eating or drinking, after play and after any heightened excitement. These are times that often lead to a puppy needing to potty so take them outside at these times and you will avoid many mistakes while taking advantage of predictable opportunities to praise them for doing the right thing. In the first week or so, you will likely find your puppy almost instantaneously leaks with little warning. Simply do your best to take them out to potty extremely often so they go in the right place as often as possible. And confine them to a single enclosed room or in an exercise pen for the first week or so to protect your carpets. Crate training goes hand in hand with house training, being one of the best tools to help speed up the process. Therefore, you want to start crate training very early on, after just a few days of getting puppy home, and I personally aim for 9 weeks old to start. I prefer to wait a week or so to avoid them pottying in the crate as much as possible, doing the most I can to preserve their instinct not to soil where they sleep, the instinct that helps most when using a crate for house training. But by all means sleep them in their crate at night if you wish and I do. For more information on crate training your puppy and using it for house training purposes, please see the links below:. Rachael Ray Nutrish is another brand I love for Labrador Retriever puppies as it is packed with DHA for healthy brain and eye development and specially formulated for young, growing dogs. You can also select different sizes and recipes. My favorite is chicken and brown rice. Bedding And Toys Lab puppies need quality bedding and toys for teething. Labrador puppies grow quickly and have sharp claws and teeth. Puppies also go through a teething phase and will need special teething toys to help soothe their sore mouths and help keep your furniture safe. As far as bedding, the best bedding for a Labrador puppy is going to be made of high quality material that is soft and plush while also being sturdy enough to keep them off the floor and support their growing bodies. KONG toys are wonderful tools to use during crate training , but they also help with separation anxiety , boredom, and the teething stage that all puppies go through. Enter the Nylabone Puppy Starter Pack. These flavored chew toys come both textured and regular to help get your pup and your furniture through the teething stage safely. Cuddly toys like the Smart PetLove Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Aid Toy above can help your new Labrador puppy adjust to sleeping on his own, assist in crate training, and may even help alleviate anxieties including noise phobias and separation anxiety. Puppy blankets are a must and can be used for multiple purposes in your home for your pup. My favorite puppy blankets are blankets that are specially made for dogs, like the Luciphia fleece blankets above. While you can use any blankets on hand, blankets that are specially made for dogs are usually a bit more durable, easier to wash, and have been made with quality and safe material for your pooch. Puppy blankets just make it easy to always a comfy place for your puppy to rest his head no matter where you are. Ultra Squeaker Ball is an absolute favorite in my house and with my clients. I especially love using this toy for puppies who are just getting the hang of playing fetch. For puppies, picking up on how to play fetch can be tough. Balls that squeak or make noise when thrown help to make the game more exciting and help encourage young pups to chase whatever is making that high pitched sound! Leashes, Harnesses, and Collars Collars, leashes, and harnesses are important tools to help socialize your puppy. Getting your puppy used to wearing a leash, harness, and collar is an important step towards socializing them. So even though your Labrador puppy will outgrow his harness and collar quickly, I still suggest investing in these items. Here are five of my favorite leash, harness, and collar products for Labrador Retriever puppies. As I mentioned above, puppies are especially fragile so steer clear of attaching a leash to their collar and try to help them adjust to wearing a harness that is comfortable. What I like about this harness is that it is adjustable so you can use it a bit longer as your puppy grows. Best of all it is the perfect length five feet for puppy training and is a leash your Lab puppy can take with him into adulthood. It is built like a standard leash, but it offers you control over how far away your puppy can get. This is excellent for puppy parents who live in busy neighborhoods or who are working with a puppy who likes to wander. Large breed puppies like Labrador Retrievers require crates that grow with them. This is why I love crates that come with dividers so that they can grow with your Lab puppy. I also recommend playpens, as Labrador puppies are notorious for being very active and energetic. Lab puppies are also incredibly curious and tend to chew a lot in their first few months, which is why indoor dog gates will also be an important part of puppy proofing your home. Take a look at some of my favorite puppy-proofing products below. Nobody likes cleaning up potty accidents. Of course, no one wants a big, bulky pen that takes up half of their home either! I also love that the pen is big enough for puppies to grow into and allows them to learn how to explore a space larger than their crate while keeping them and your home safe from their curiosity. And since crate training is such an important part of puppyhood and actually helps your puppy adjust to being alone and feeling secure, we recommend investing in a good, high quality crate you can use for years. It has two separate doors for entrance and exit and it comes with a divider so it can be adjusted to the size of your dog as he grows. Just remember to leave your pup inside his crate with a KONG and some bedding so he is comfortable, and remember that puppies who are younger than six months old should not stay in their crates for longer than four hours. For those of you who plan to leave your puppy out and about while you are gone and after he is trained, of course , then a crate that folds may be your best bet. The MidWest Foldable Dog Crate posted above is one such crate that is not only made well, but also stores well. Like most crates ideal for Labrador puppies, this crate also comes with a divider so it can grow with your dog. Along with crates and puppy playpens, you also might consider getting a gate to keep your puppy from entering places in your home that may pose a risk to him. Many of my clients keep gates up in their kitchen entryway, or gate their living rooms where puppies are tempted to chew on wood furniture. Richell Wood Freestanding Pet Gate Sale Buy on Amazon For those of you worried about installing something or accidentally damaging walls or paint, there are always free-standing gate options, like the Richell Wood Freestanding Pet Gate. I do like the way these gates look and the simplicity of them, however, they are not always the most secure and may not stand up to a strong and curious puppy. These gates are also not ideal for leaving puppies unsupervised as they can sometimes find ways to knock them down. Grooming your Labrador puppy early on not only helps to socialize him and prepare him for a life of vet visits, groomer visits, and physical contact with people, but it also helps to keep him clean and healthy. Like babies, puppies are more sensitive to certain products and require products that are specifically designed to be gentle on their sensitive skin and fur. Be selective of the shampoos, dog brushes , and other grooming products you pick for your Labrador puppy and make sure you always use high-quality products. Some of the products I recommend most for grooming a Labrador puppy are listed below. Pet Care Sciences Puppy Shampoo. Vet bedding fleece on a roll is ideal puppy bedding. You can line both his bed and his car crate with this. Buy several pieces so that you can pop one in the washing machine when it gets dirty or if he has an accident. There are lots of lovely beds you can get to go around the house, but in those first days veterinary bedding is an essential alternative to keep his crate cosy and clean. Puppy Toys For Labradors Puppy toys need to be sturdy. Many puppies destroy soft toys quite quickly though they are so adorable, you may not be able to resist buying one or two. Kongs and rope toys are very tough and seem to survive the onslaught of puppy teeth. A Radio If you intend your puppy to sleep alone in the kitchen from the first night, you may find it helpful to leave a radio next to his crate. Just a simple, cheap Portable Radio with the volume turned down low can serve the same role as some human company. It just helps him feel less along during those first few nights when he may be feeling very homesick. Puppy Harness There is no rush for this, but once your puppy is too heavy to carry, and going out and about on the ground, he needs some kind of safety restraint. These days I usually recommend a harness as they avoid pulling on the puppies neck. The kind where the lead attaches at the front and on the back are ideal. You can find an expert review of the big brands of harnesses, from a professional trainer here. When he is older and has learned to walk next to you, you can buy him a collar. To let your puppy know when he has done something you like. It is a really useful tool to help you teach your puppy to be quiet, and to learn simple skills. It will make training your puppy much quicker, easier and a lot more fun. Getting a recall to whistle established at an early age gets your puppy training off to a great start. I recommend the Acme Dog Whistle. There is plenty of information on the use and choice of dog whistles in this article: Should you buy a dog whistle .It will help to get you off to a great start with your new puppy. However, a healthy six-month-old labrador will grow significantly in size. Some of them can weigh up to 50 pounds. For a more balanced diet at six months, you can shift from feeding your puppy three smaller meals per day to two meals a day. To counteract this, you can drop the amount of food and gradually increase it. Setting Your Lab Puppy Up for Successful Potty Training Training an animal to control their bladders until you get outside is no different than potty-training for toddlers. In other words, crate training speeds up the potty-training process for your pet. Effective crate training depends on two things: Praising and rewarding your puppy for relieving itself outside. They come to understand this as a desirable behavior. Preventing your puppy from going to the toilet within the home. So, why is using a crate to train your puppy to go outside so effective? Initially, this should be every hour or so. As labs grow older, you can reduce the frequency as they learn to hold and release independently. Step 2: House Training a Lab Puppy Housetraining or potty-training small labs can be, well, frustrating. As a pet owner, there are simple ways to train your puppy to understand ideal behavior quickly. Instead, they simply forget that they should control it. This helps avoid any issues early on. Keep small labrador puppies off the carpet. How to Feed Your Dog for Optimal Growth Feeding your labrador puppy a balanced diet could be an entire guide all on its own. It can feel overwhelming because you do have many options when it comes to feeding your dog. For example, if you work from home, it would be easy to feed your dog homemade dog food. Similarly, you might work a and yet want to reap the health-related benefits of a raw diet. Make sure to speak to your vet first. You do have choices for what to feed your puppy and you can mix and match these. Popular feeding options for any animal include kibble, wet food, raw food, and home-cooked food. Remember, a puppy is still growing, and they need a complete profile of nutrients and minerals to support their development. There are many commercial brands of dry food or kibble to choose from and you can adjust what you buy based on the ingredients. Do your research and find a brand you trust, with as much bioavailable nutritional content as is helpful. These can harm your puppy. In order to maintain good health and prevent simple ailments, your puppy can also benefit from taking a supplement. Some families choose to mix scraps or raw food with kibble to provide moisture and decrease the amount of food versus the calories consumed. Any veterinarian will tell you that a hard and fast rule is not necessarily the type of food but the amount. Obesity is a condition that can lead to many health issues for this breed. Over-exertion, especially for a puppy, is possible. This includes activities like playing fetch or tug and release. However, breeds that worked as a hunting companion for humans love to be active. Again, this goes back to the strengths of the breed. Keeping up with your puppy could be a task-and-a-half, so in the first months of life, you should be keeping them in your backyard or playing with them at home. As they become house trained and get all their vaccinations, you can turn walks into light jogs or runs if you want. In the long-term, exercise will help keep dogs healthy and disease-free. However, early dog training can eliminate common problems with puppy temperament and help make sure that your fur friend is always as friendly and happy as possible through the years. Puppy socialization simply means making your puppy open to and familiar with new experiences. You want to provide stimulation and encounters with experiences that they will probably face as adults. The window of opportunity to make sure your puppy is always a happy and friendly pooch closes around 14 weeks. Pre-Vaccination Lab Puppy Socialization Any veterinarian will tell you that a puppy is all done with their vaccinations after 12 weeks of age. The main point is to keep your puppy away from other dogs who may not yet be vaccinated or the excrement and markings of other animals that could carry data diseases. You can head to an off-leash dog park to allow them to explore and meet other fur friends. You can also take them beyond your backyard to the countryside to enable them to swim or set up obstacle courses and play with them. Another thing that people forget about is spaying or neutering their dogs. Spaying or neutering your dog could help with behavioral issues and can also reduce the onset of certain health conditions. At the same time, spaying or neutering a puppy too early may also lead to health issues. For many people, this is a worthwhile and even enjoyable trade-off. A happy, sociable dog is always the result of consistent training. Training your dog is a significant aspect of their early years. The different stages include: Get it — Using positive reinforcement, trainers will help your dog carry out actions without commands. Teach it — This stage harnesses the progress you made in the previous stages. Your dog now knows the word and the action that goes with it. Proof it — Proofing is where many people get stuck. Your dog will learn to listen and obey commands at this stage even when they are engaged in other things. Maintain it — Consistently using the techniques you learned to keep your dog following the same desirable behavior. All breeds of dogs respond best when you train them. Every labrador retriever relies on their human taking control and showing them how to respond in any situation. You can be sure that if you follow these tips that you will be taking proper care of your new puppy and will be able to make sure that your puppy will live a long and healthy life. Share on. Non-slip bottom dog dishes Puppies naturally move their dish around as they are eating, especially if the dish has a flat bottom that easily pushes around the floor. We have found that dishes with a non-slip bottom can help so that your puppy is not chasing around his food dish. Make sure that it is large enough. And since dogs grow fast, that means they will likely grow to that size within a year to a year and a half. Almost all dogs we train eat between 4 -6 cups of dog food a day. So, make sure that your dish is large enough to accommodate this many cups. Water dish It is vitally important that your puppy have access to clean water for drinking. With the puppies we raise, we have found that it can be challenging to keep a small water dish full, so we prefer to use these 2-gallon water dishes. They are easy to fill and allow us to only have to fill them a couple times a week instead of several times a day. We suggest that you introduce a lead to your puppy as they start to grow in confidence and walk further from you when outside. There are two great reasons to do this early on. First it teaches your puppy how to handle the pressure of not being able to go wherever they want whenever they want. And it keeps your puppy from developing a habit of running away from you. A Flexi-lead works especially well if you want to give your puppy a little more freedom to go do his potty business but still keep control. Toys Puppies need toys. If you do not give them toys that they CAN chew and play with, they will chew on your sofa leg, or a book or a blanket or anything else they can find. So, purchase some good durable puppy chew toys. But watch your pup carefully. As they get older and stronger, they will be able to rip apart cloth toys and ingest them. Or they will chew rubber toys into small pieces and eat them. When your pup gets strong enough to destroy toys, it is time to take away the puppy toys and give them only dog toys designed for older , larger dogs or quality rawhides that they can chew that will not cause digestive problems. Stay away from rope toys. Many puppies have managed to ingest strings and ropes requiring surgery to remove them. Puppy-sized bumper If your plan is for your Labrador puppy to become a hunting or competition dog, you should have a puppy sized bumper. Learn more about teaching your puppy to fetch in this post. Barriers I recommend that you section off a small portion of your home and not let your puppy have full run of the entire house. Learn more about housebreaking your Lab puppy in this post. To section off a part, it can be helpful to have some child-gates available or an area of your home that you can close doors. This means that you need to show your puppy where the boundaries are and what is and is not allowed. To do this, you will need a few more tools. This is often when we see dogs that are running away from their owners, playing keep-a-way when retrieving and just basically being naughty. A lot of this could be avoided with the use of a check cord. Yes, a check cord can be cumbersome and often a pain to use, but it only takes one or two times of your puppy running away from you to make it worth it. Put a check cord on your puppy and allow them to drag it around with them. This alone is a great lesson for a dog. Dragging the weight is a type of pressure that they will need to learn to deal with. Occasionally, step on the rope and allow your dog to feel the pressure of being stopped and controlled. These sound like such minor things, but you would be surprised how much more well-adjusted your puppy will be just from learning these minor lessons. Chain or prong collar As your puppy gets stronger, it will get more and more difficult to control your puppy with a lead just hooked up to a nylon collar. As you notice that your puppy is getting harder to control, is pulling you around or dragging you down the street, you need to move to a chain or prong collar. Actually, it would be best if you changed to a chain or prong collar long before this becomes an issue. Remember, it is always easier to fix problems when they are small rather than waiting for them to become huge problems. Larger bumpers for retrieving dogs As your dog gets larger, you will want to move away from the puppy bumper and start using regular sized retrieving bumpers. We prefer to use plastic or rubber bumpers since they do not get as dirty or smelly as the canvas ones. They also last a lot longer and can be used for both water and land retrieves. Learn all about the different bumpers used for training hunting dogs here. Orange is a color that is difficult for retrievers to see, so that color should not be used for young dogs that are just learning about retrieving and hunting. Save the orange ones for advanced dogs working on blind retrieves. Final thoughts on What do I need to buy for a Lab puppy? There are many things that you will need for your new puppy both now and in the future. Take some time to prepare before you bring your puppy home so that you will avoid buying things on impulse that you may or may not need. If you are planning on using your puppy as a hunting or competition dog, check out 6 vital tools every gun dog trainer needs. You can email me at ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time happy retrieving. What do I need to buy for a Lab puppy? Lab Puppy proof the house. Things like dangerous chemicals, solvents, cleaning solutions, paint and other dangerous substances need to be secured. As well you will need to look at cords hanging and things falling on the puppy if they accidentally pull something down. Stairs need to be gated off until your puppy is older and learns how to walk down them without trying to jump off. Purchase a quality dog food. It never ceases to amaze me how some people end up feeding a low quality food to their dog, or something experimental like a vegan food, or even feed them a so called raw diet and not balance their nutrition requirements. The single biggest thing you can do for your dog is feed them a proven diet with nutrients delivered in the proper ratios. A second thing to consider is where your food is made and how you can be notified if there is a recall. At the time of writing this there is a popular food under recall for toxic levels of vitamin D. There have been numerous cases of deaths related to this and yet the company claims they independently test their ingredients. The food we recommend is such because we have years and years of experience over 13 years with it using it ourselves and recommending it to those who adopt our puppies. We have actually had so few health issues with our puppies and aging adults eating this food that we have increased our warranty to 4 years and include all major organs. Bottom line, feed a high quality proven food from the day you bring your puppy home, not necessarily one with the most protein. We will provide you with feeding suggestions once you place your reservation for a puppy and a proven puppy food to feed them. Visit the pet store for the required equipment. You are going to need a large dog crate with a divider so in the beginning your puppy will have just enough room to sleep. Crate training is the best way to protect your puppy while making them safe when unsupervised. As your dog grows you can remove the divider so it has room to lay down and not touch the walls. We stock the most popular toys and cover all the different types you will need so that you can get them when you pick up your puppy. They come with explanations of how the different types are used to both stimulate, calm and play with your puppy, how to cycle them, teething, and more. A stainless steel water and food bowl is also another good choice. I would wait on getting a collar so that you can fit them properly. We have inexpensive training leashes that adjust to any size for you to purchase when you are here. Have a family meeting to establish expectations. Every human in the home will need to follow the same rules consistently so that your puppy understands what is expected of them. Schedule an appointment with a good Veterinarian. Not all Veterinarians are of equal experience. We have heard some pretty crazy stories, so we suggest you get some referrals of some long term relationships of people you trust for a Vet. You should take your puppy to the vet a couple of days after you get home so it has time to get use to its new surroundings before being taken somewhere. Prepare fore the Drive Home 1. Your puppy can last about 2 or 3 hours without a potty break. We normally feed your puppy early in the morning on the day of pick up so that it has time to go potty before the drive home. Our recommendation is to give your puppy some water every 3 hours and then let them have a pee. This could also go along with letting them play or explore outside a bit. When you stop, find an unused grassy space to potty on. Arriving at home with your puppy 1. First quickly bring them to the spot you want them to potty. This is the beginning of your dog being house trained. They will likely have to go right after you get out of the car. So when you stop, give them a drink in the area you want them to relieve themselves in. Wait until they go and then you can take them into the home. Treat your puppy like a puppy. It is breakable and will be a puppy for about a year. Things like playing with larger dogs and such should be carefully supervised. Constant supervision. Your new puppy needs to be constantly supervised until they can be trusted and you know that they understand the rules. Constant supervision means either you or someone watching them, they are in their crate the crate is the supervisor , or that they are in a section of the home baby-gated off or also an outside run with a kennel and a cement floor so they cannot dig under the fence yes they will dig. After a potty bring your puppy to the room with their crate. Introducing them to their crate perhaps with a few pieces of kibble in it will show them where their safe space is. This is also where they need to be comfortable enough to self-calm and fall asleep. If you have another dog, first introduce them outside on neutral territory. Bringing a new puppy and simply coming straight into the home could have one of three effects. The first being that both dogs might be ok with it. Second is that the older dog has an issue with a new strange animal in its territory. This would result in your older dog being defensive, maybe even protective or possibly anxious and scared and once this has happened it is out there. Undoing this type of trauma could take days or weeks. Relax and let them get to know each other and all will be good. After some get familiar time begin training your puppy without distractions using Positive Reinforcement training methods. We suggest that everyone participates in some training classes either in a group format or private. The important thing to understand is that you are training you to train your puppy. Your puppy will also lose any training it has done if it is not reinforced by everyone in the home. Other resources are 80 Puppy Training tips that you can learn as well as an excellent site with video called Puppy Trained Right. We have a discount code available for those who are taking home one of our puppies. This will allow them time to eliminate most of their food and urine and will give a better chance of sleeping the night without having to go potty. Prepare their crate in a quiet, dark spot. Make it a sleepy place, place a blanket over the top and down 3 sides to block draft and to make it den-like. Some mild exercise or training just before bed. Just like a human, you want them to be tired before bed. So for example if you let them sleep from 9 to 11 pm they may not need to go down at 11 to sleep. The last while before bed try to stimulate them mentally and physically so that they are ready to turn in. This can be training sessions, a walk, a play session or even fetch in the house. One final potty around 11 pm. After you prepare them for sleep take them out one more time and give them ample time to relieve themselves. Bring them back in, let them settle in the crate, put an item of clothing in there that smells like you for them to snuggle on. The quicker they learn the new pack and learn to settle in the crate the better and that happens by not reminding them of their old litter. If they smell their old litter they will whine for them to find them. Settling in their crate. Once your puppy goes down you will want to be teaching your puppy that the time in their crate is for sleep, they are safe in there, and that if they bark or whine they cannot summon you to save them. So, what if they really have to go? This is something you will have to figure out. It may be possible that they must go outside to relieve themselves, but, they may also just want you to hold or feed them. If they go, just put them back in their crate to settle and go back to sleep. You will know within reason that next time they are just lonely. This normally stops after about 2 or 3 days. Whoosh them out to their pee spot. Pick them up and carry them quickly to their pee spot. When they go reward them with praise and say the potty word that you use. Feed, and then woosh them out again to their pee spot. Puppies often need to poop right after they eat, or sometimes while they are eating. Some exercise, training and mental stimulation. After waking up and eating they will be ready for a walk and some training. Setting them up for their first full day in the home. Plan their day out so that there is a balance of play, training, napping, eating, and potty. In the beginning your puppy will need about 20 hours or so of sleep a day so be sure it is getting enough. If your puppy gets nippy they may be trying to tell you they are tired and want to be left alone in their crate. Every opportunity that your puppy presents in the form of nipping is a training opportunity to teach bite inhibition. Coming home to your puppy after work. Learning how to greet them. If you work full time it is important to understand that a young puppy cannot hold their bladders for more than 3 or 4 hours. If you work full time you will need someone to watch them or at least visit them once or twice during the shift to let them out, drink and play. When you arrive home this is the time to teach them manners. Most dogs will be excited and will jump on you to greet you. Be sure you teach them how you want them to greet people. We will teach a dog to sit in front of us before it gets any attention. No attention means no talking, no eye contact and no touching. Will they need to relieve themselves? If they have been in a crate you will likely need to let them go potty, a walk or some fetching would also be good at this time because they likely have some energy to expend. Training pre or post feeding? There are also some Labs who are not food motivated. So if your Lab is not responding well to training after they are fed, you may want to train them before eating so the hunger is on your side. Socialization with people other than your family, and animals other than those in the home. While socializing you want to expose them to many people while not overwhelming them. To start we recommend 1 new person each morning and one new place each night. After you can see that your puppy is not overwhelmed you may decide to increase the frequency of exposure to new places, animals and things. Prepare for night time routine. Get your new furball ready for bed time as outlined above. Setting your puppy up for success. Avoiding dog parks and strange dogs. Until your puppy is fully vaccinated around 14 weeks old they are vulnerable to other diseases by unknown dogs. By all means, if you know someone who has a dog and you can verify that their dog is up to date on all shots such as Parvo, Rabies, Leptospirosis, Kennel Cough, Distemper, Hepatitis, Corona and Para Influenza, 2. Get into a reputable training class or private training with a reputable trainer. Training classes are mainly to train you. Ask around in your area for a recommendation of a good trainer at a reasonable price. Gentle, regular exposure to everyone and everything. For example, while you are exposing them to people you will need to expose them to female babies, toddlers, pre teens, teenagers, young adult women, middle aged women and older women. You will need to include women with glasses, hats, soft voices, loud voices, etc…. Adjust their food as they grow and as their activity level increases or decreases. If for example your dog is much more active or much less active then the recommended feeding amount will not be correct. Instead use your eyes. You might have to adjust the food amounts up or down as your Labrador gets more or less activity. Positive Reinforcement training by everyone in the pack. When you get into your car and you to go somewhere, you tell your gps where you want to go. Dogs are the same way. Instead teach your dog what you want it to do. Instead of scolding, simply withdraw your attention. This is enough punishment. Then, get back to showing your dog what you want it to do. If your puppy is not eating or has a loose bowel movement. Not eating much is pretty common when a puppy goes to its new home, however if it stops drinking then that would be cause for an immediate vet visit. In a new home your puppy might not be comfortable for a couple of days and eating might be just grazing. This is ok as long as it is drinking and seems to be playful. Loose bowel movements in the beginning could be due to nerves or your puppy could also have a parasite. At this young age puppies put everything, and I mean everything into their mouths. It is quite common for puppies to get loose stool from a parasite. This can be addressed easily if you take a stool sample into your Vet for analysis. What is a puppy emergency that requires a visit to the vet? Our rules for an emergency trip to the vet are: Uncontrollable bleeding, puppy not breathing properly, broken bone, puppy is not drinking and appears lethargic. If any of these present themselves you may want to consider getting help right away. Other things can normally wait until the next morning to be addressed because they are not critical. Depending on where you live however you may have a vet that is open 24 hours and even on the weekends. So this is a start for you to think about when you take a Labrador Puppy home. Information contained on this page is provided by an independent third-party content provider. Frankly and this Site make no warranties or representations in connection therewith. If you are affiliated with this page and would like it removed please contact pressreleases franklymedia. Be among the first to get breaking news, weather, and general news updates from News 9 delivered right to your inbox! Morning Headlines.