goldendoodle puppies for sale missouri

Liver and kidney infection Bowel, gallbladder, and pancreas issues The best way to avoid having an unhealthy pet is to feed them healthy food. A nutritious meal to keep them healthy while being too skinny is a must. You should also consider making your pet fit in the physical sense despite being skinny. It also helps when you check their stool and bowel movement. This is to track if they have been eating well and digesting the food with no complications. In case you find out your boxer suffers from one of the listed health conditions, contact or visit the vet. The transition phase is normal, and you only have to wait it out until the muscles and fat forms within the body. Do not serve cheap and unhealthy food to your dog. Many owners fall victim to giving their pets food that they eat. Remember that not all human food is good for dogs. Letting your pets eat cheap and unhealthy food will only make them skinnier. Try making healthy homemade snacks for your dog. Even for people, too much processed food is not good. If you want your boxers to gain weight , then make them a blend of healthy snacks that are high in fat and calories. Snacks are different than meals, which is why you need to give it to them in moderation. Something homemade will always be good for the health. You can also check out some DIY ideas for your pets that will help them eat better. If you want your dog to look bigger, forcing food upon him is not the answer. It is better if you offer food in the same amount all the time. Make sure that the food you give is healthy and high in calories. Fat and calories are what your dog needs right now and not health complications. I was born into a dog-loving family and have been a proud doggy mommy ever since I can remember. I love sharing my dog knowledge and love being an active part of the dog-loving community. Related Posts. As a side note, be sure to use a proper toy cleaner to scrub out the gook and gunk that will accumulate inside Kongs and other treat-release toys. Homemade Snack to Help Boxer Dog Gain Weight: Since this involves routinely giving a mix of calorie dense food that is higher in fat than recommended for canines, run this by your vet first. Please note that these are not for meals. Feeding this for full meals could lead to upset stomach, diarrhea and very fast, unhealthy weight gain. Mix very well. Form into teaspoon sized balls. Please on a cookie sheet and freeze. Once frozen, store in airtight containers like Tupperware. Give thawed balls as snacks. When he was quickly growing in height, he was eating a lot. Now, in this 'skinny limbo' the Boxer has a stall of growth and his body doesn't need as much food. His appetite may not increase again until the body breaks free from the skinny phase and starts to grow in width and thicken up. Again, you don't want to force a Boxer to eat. With that said, adding a drizzle of warm low-salt chicken or beef broth can make a meal a bit more tempting. Alternatively, serving the entire meal warmed up can make it more appealing. Using the microwave is just fine; but be sure to mix it up well and test it with your inner wrist to make sure it's not too hot before scooping it into your Boxer's food bowl. While daily walks are an important part of care, allowing your Boxer a space to run is great for the body. Taking a weekly walk in the sand beach shoreline or lakeside is a great way to help the Boxer dog find his power. In conjunction with the food that you feed your Boxer, this can be just the boost that dog needs. You can learn more in the Boxer Dog Supplement section. The End of the Boxer Dog Skinny Phase If you have had health issues ruled out and you are feeding your Boxer well and providing enough exercise opportunities, all you will need now is some patience. Your adolescent Boxer is a slimmed version of the adult he or she is soon to become. Keep in mind that this breed is a lean dog and Boxers will vary; some will have wider chest than others. Some will have thicker legs and thicker necks than others. With most adults, the ribs will not show, however they may be slightly visible when the dog turns or positions himself a certain way. At a healthy, adult weight, you will be able to feel the ribs, but not clearly see them. With good food and care, that will be maintained until the senior years at which time there will be a gradual muscle loss which makes a Boxer's body look less well-defined and a just a bit softer. Black Boxer Dogs Is there such a thing as a Boxer with a solid black coat or a black coat with flash? There are some dogs that appear to be purebred Boxers with this coat color. Let's take a look at what this is. Sorting through the facts and myths that surround the solid or parti white Boxer. Stats on health issues, deafness and more. Large Males can weigh up to 75lbs Boxers will typically have reached their full height by months but will continue to slowly fill out in until around 16 months of age. Those weight averages are just that, averages! Underlying health issues can go unnoticed for some time! Unfortunately, a loss of appetite is a common symptom of a wide range of health problems. Ruling out health problems with a trained veterinarian is always the best thing to do first. The 5 Best Tips To Help Your Boxer Dog Gain Weight Assuming health issues have been ruled out with your veterinarian the following 5 tips will help your boxer gain weight by either increasing calories or making his current food more palatable. The best ways to increase weight on your boxer include mixing in wet dog food with their kibble, adding unsalted chicken broth to their food, using dog food seasonings to tackle fussy eating, adding peanut butter, or increasing their portion sizes. Mix in wet dog food with his kibble Add unsalted chicken or beef broth Use dog food seasonings Add peanut butter to his kibble Increase portion sizes 1. Wet dog food is higher in protein, higher in natural fats, fewer carbohydrates, fewer preservatives, and chemicals, and will act as a meaty gravy to the dry kibble. The addition of wet dog food nearly always works to stop fussy eating. Just ensure you mix the wet dog food into the kibble thoroughly otherwise your boxer may eat the wet and leave the dry! If you have some leftover broth from your own dinner be sure to save it for your Boxers meal time. Be careful with broth from stock cubes, as they usually have a lot of salt, additives, or preservatives in them. Broth from real, cooked meat is the ideal option. Use dog food seasonings There are a range of brands that make food toppers and seasonings for our canine friends. They are a fun and healthy way to quickly add flavor to your Boxers kibble. The company that we recommend is called Shake it Pup. One bottle provides up to 60 servings so if your boxer is currently fed twice a day, one bottle will last an entire month. Not bad for the price. You can check out the full range of flavors and seasonings by Shake it Pup here on Amazon. Source PetMD Peanut butter is high in healthy fats and therefore contains a lot of calories per tablespoon. Always test a tiny amount of peanut butter with your Boxer first before giving him a full tablespoon with his meal. Test first. To keep it interesting you could alternate days between using chicken broth with his kibble, then peanut butter, then dog food seasonings. It could be that the particular dog food you are using is low in calories per cup , or that your boxer is more active than usual. Never the less, if you think the food your boxer is consuming is high quality and digesting well, then simply add half a cup extra to meal times. If you choose to do this method then do not do other things like adding peanut butter or wet dog food, as that would be a huge increase in calories. Watch over the course of 2 weeks to see if his weight progresses. But what if your boxer IS already eating his full meal, and is still underweight? Rule out health issues: Just like before, ruling out health issues should ideally be done before trying any tips and tricks. Give your veterinarian a call to explain the situation and you may be required to schedule an appointment. This type of food will have more protein, fat, and calories compared to other regular adult dog food. Check the portion sizes: It could be that his portion sizes that are too small. Refer to the packaging to double-check the portions. Change the brand to a premium dog food brand: Not all dog food is made equal. To get the best nutrients and ingredients you need to opt for a premium brand like Orijen, Taste of The Wild, Wellness, or Acana. These brands are expensive, but you can rest assured that your Boxer is receiving real nutrition through real ingredients. Cheap brands use a lot of fillers that provide little nutritional value. So take an honest look at how much exercise you give your Boxer and be prepared to increase it. Exercise is so important to this breed that their overall health really depends on it. There may be nothing wrong with your Boxer or his food, he may just need more exercise to get his appetite to the correct level. Final Thoughts So there you have it, you now have a good idea of what weight your Boxer should be at depending upon his age, how to rule out health conditions, what you can do to help him eat his food and gain weight, and how exercise plays an important role in keeping his appetite healthy. Recommended Reading. Why a Boxer Dog Seems too Skinny? November 5, by John Wanted to know that why Boxer dogs are lean, slim and packed with the tight muscles? However changes happen to the body of Boxer dog when he changes from puppyhood to adulthood. For the temporary period for example, the age of 14 and 22 Boxer looks too skinny, not for the whole life. Here we will discuss the 4 Reasons Why a Boxer Dog seems too skinny? Why boxer dogs are skinny? Being puppy, Boxer Dogs are in nice rounded shape. They take time to give the appearance of adult puppy. But, on the other hand, a Boxer dog looks skinny for the temporary time of period because after becoming adult puppy he started to gain fat rapidly and grew in height. However, because of this reason, he remains invisible. Invisibility is a clear sign that keeps them underweight, and weight issue can never create trouble for the dog owners. However, some boxer dog eats plenty of food and this is the main issue that their body becomes bulky with the passage of time. Reasons why a Boxer Dog seems too skinny? They prefer walking; You may know that the Boxer Dog are active, obedient and well discipline, so they prefer to walk most of the time. Their active nature makes them punctual to walk immediately after the dinner. From the morning to evening, they prefer walking and moving from one place to another. Control food Portion: When it comes to the food portion of Boxer dogs, they are much smaller than the other type of dogs. These type of dogs just eat everything in the less quantity they are opposed to other dogs who just eat everything in the more quantity and then gain the weight. They eat rice, but in the tiny quantity, but sometimes they prefer to take the full meal. They avoid eating sugar coated foods like pastries and doughnuts. Just because of these reasons they live long and seems to be skinny. Food farming practices: Most of the dog owners prefer to give more organic foods to their dogs. Organic foods are more natural than processed food. This enables them to make more efficiently and modified. They are determined enough for fitness; The truth is that Boxer Dog is determined enough to keep their body in shape using exercise and balanced nutritional diet. As I dog owner if you want to make your dog skinny, then you have to follow the 2 things: Make up your mind to reshape the body of your dog. Do it regardless of any reason and excuse. That is the main thing that keeps them skinny. Additionally, they prefer exercising and eating clean to keep themselves in shape. Health Issues; While Health Issues are not common in the Boxer dog, but when he started transitioning from puppy to adult , the possibility of health issues started taking place. Possible health conditions in the boxer dogs are: Thyroid issues.

Although a playful pup sounds endearing, consider how many games of fetch or tag you want to play each day, and whether you have kids or other dogs who can stand in as playmates for the dog. They can cause trouble, do sports like dog agility, or following you everywhere you go — they are dynamic dogs. The Bolonoodle is a smart dog, however, they are often stubborn. Consistency is key when training this breed. Daily training sessions that last minutes any longer can cause disinterest and backfire as far as creating progress are key to helping this breed retain good manners and stay on track. Basic obedience classes may help if you are a first-time dog parent. The Bolonoodle is usually a good fit for beginner dog parents, as long as they refuse to give in to poor behaviors. Without proper stimulation, the Eskipoo will grow bored and frustrated, regardless of how much love there is for them. Additionally, this breed can develop separation anxiety. Dog parents who are frequently home or able to bring pups to work are a good match for this breed, although not a requirement. This breed still craves mental stimulation they can find through training, scentwork activities, and other forms of enrichment. These breeds can be prone to behaviors humans find frustrating, like excessive barking and chewing. When understimulated, they will make it endlessly clear they are bored. Both parent breeds, however, are well known and loved. The Bolognese breed is actually quite an old one, and they can be traced back to at least the 13th century in Italy. Members of the ruling class prized these little lapdogs, and they were bred by both the Gonzaga and Medici families. Bolognese puppies were highly prized, and sometimes given as gifts to visiting royal families and dignitaries. The Poodle is one of the oldest breeds developed specifically for hunting waterfowl. Most historians agree that the Poodle originated in Germany, but developed into their own breed in France. Many believe that the breed is the result of crosses between several European water dogs, including Spanish, Portuguese, French, German, Hungarian, and Russian water dogs. Although the Standard was used for duck hunting, the smaller varieties had use as well — while many kept them as lapdogs, they were also talented truffle hunters. The Poodle Club of America was founded in , but disbanded shortly thereafter. Poodle enthusiasts reestablished the club in .Bolonoodle Size The Bolonoodle is a small-sized mixed breed. They have no breed standard, so their coats may be found in a variation of colors from their combination of parent breeds. They will usually have a thick but curly-haired coat, along with floppy, curly-haired ears. They will often be solid white, brown, or black, but they may appear in other colors. Bolonoodle Personality If the Bolonoodle originates from a responsible breeder, they are often healthy. However, there are some genetic predispositions towards health issues to be aware of with this crossbreed. Crossbreeding, even in designer dog breeds, does reduce the risk of ailments common in purebred dogs. Hip Dysplasia. A high-quality breeder will charge higher prices, but there is a better chance your puppy will be healthy and have fewer problems later in life. The internet allows us to do plenty of research into the breeders before we make any purchases, and there are plenty of breeders available. If your heart is set on adopting, you might get lucky to find a Bolonoodle at a dog shelter. It might take some time, but you can also ask for other mixed breeds that resemble the Bolonoodle. Bolonoodles are smart enough to play games and attempt to trick you into doing what they want. The Bolognese parent is centuries old and was a popular dog as early as the 11th century. The Bolognese parent almost went extinct before it was restored in Europe by a few breeders. They are smart and can be trained to perform tricks but quickly get bored and might move on to other activities. They are always extremely social and insist on being by your side. Are These Dogs Good for Families? They are more than suitable to have around children, and they will provide each other with hours of fun. Parents will enjoy the low maintenance they require. They are extremely entertaining and will often play games with unsuspecting family members. They get along with other pets and are comfortable in small apartments as well as large homes. This breed will also get along with squirrels and rabbits that pass through the yard. We found it just as likely to play jokes on other animals as it is to play them on humans, and sometimes it can be quite entertaining. The food should be of high quality from a reputable brand. It should contain complete nutrition and use high-quality meats and vegetables. Stay away from brands that use a lot of strange ingredients, meat byproducts, and chemical preservatives like BHA. This breed tends to get plenty of exercise playing games and tricks around the home and will require little else. We recommend devoting minutes of your time each day to exercise with your Bolonoodle. The problem is that they quickly become bored and move on to other things , many times before you even get started with your training session. However, you can attempt to train your Bolonoodle by standing in front of your pet with a treat to get its attention. If you are successful and your pet sits down, give him a treat. They will also require frequent trimmings to help keep them looking neat and kept. They will not require frequent bathing, nor do they shed often. Nail trimmings and tooth brushing is also important for a comfortable gait and a healthy mouth. Minor Conditions Hip Dysplasia Hip dysplasia is common in larger dogs, but because the Bolonoodle is predisposed to obesity, it is very common in this breed as well. Hip dysplasia is a deformity of the hip socket that causes the joint not to fit together correctly. Diabetes Just like humans and many other animals can get diabetes, dogs can as well. The risk of getting diabetes is higher in dogs that are overweight, and since the Bolonoodle is predisposed to becoming overweight, this problem is also a concern with this breed. Symptoms include excessive thirst, weight loss, and increased appetite. Serious Conditions Obesity Two things contribute heavily to obesity in the Bolonoodle breed of dog. The first is a lack of exercise. In some cases, children can grow or move away, reducing the exercise available to the dog. The second reason so many Bolonoodle dogs are overweight is overfeeding. Even a few treats is a lot of food to these small dogs Luxating Patella Luxating patella is a condition that causes the kneecap to move out of place. Over time your kneecap can wear out and slip out of place more and more often. This condition will affect the amount of weight your dog can place on the leg and will reduce its mobility. It will also predispose your dog to other injuries like torn ligaments. Male vs Female Both the male and female Bolonoodle stand at the same height and are the same weight. In fact, there are no discernable differences between the two. Some claim that the male exhibits alpha behavior, but we did not witness it in our experience with this breed. If you have learned something new, please share this look at the Bolonoodle on Facebook and Twitter. Featured image credit: parxel, Pixabay Contents. All rights reserved. Here is a collage of a few of our customers with their Bolo-Noodles.What is a BoloNoodle? History: This is a cross breed between a registered Bolognese and registered Toy Poodle. From what we have learned, Europeans have been crossing the Bolognese with the Toy Poodle since about the 14th century, but no one ever named the hybrid combination. It was simply referred to as the poor man's Bolognese. This hybrid was recognized as a great family pet in Europe and Jarbeth's Kennel is proud to offer you this opportunity to own one as well. This cross-breed has been around in the USA since about .We know. To our knowledge, Bolo-Noodles are offered exclusively at Jarbeth's Kennel. We were certainly the first. Non-shedding, hypo-allergenic, no doggie odor. Can be any color, but are primarily white or cream. The Bolognese is an all white breed, so any color found in the BoloNoodle will have been inherited from the Poodle parent. Our dogs have produced, white, cream, cream and white; black, black and white, black and tan, black and silver; black-brown and white; blue and white, brown and white; and occasionally a brindle color. All of the colors except true black, fade at the dog matures. For example, a brown dog will turn cream, a dog that looks black at birth may fade to silver or blue because it was not a true black, and a cream and white dog may be all white as an adult. To see examples, click here. The BoloNoodle may have the single layer, straighter Bolognese coat or the thicker, double coat of the Poodle. Nearly all BoloNoodles are built like the Bolognese, sturdy, square built, well muscled and athletic, seeming only to adopt the Poodle colors. The Bolognese is by far the dominate breed. Temperament: Both the Bolognese and Poodle have wonderful temperaments. The BoloNoodle has the best characteristics of both breeds. Both are highly intelligent and loyal. Very versatile as a great family dog or companion dog for a single individual. The go-everywhere, do anything dog. Click here for an extended explanation. All of our customers love their Bolo-Noodles. Size: lbs. Height is up to 12 inches at the shoulder. I said the Bolognese only comes it white. They insisted that they had seen a black Bolognese while traveling in Europe on their honeymoon, that it was a cross with a Toy Poodle and called the poor man's Bolognese. So I did some research and learned that what they had seen was true. And this was exactly what I had been looking for. I had been looking for a unique niche for our enterprise and we came up with the BoloNoodle. A BoloNoodle produced by Jarbeth's Kennel will come with ACHC registration papers, proving that these puppies are from registered, full-blooded breeding stock. Male Bolonoodle Our Breeding Practices At Little Teton Doodles, we take great pride in our ethical breeding practices, ensuring our Bolonoodle puppies are happy, healthy, and well-adjusted. Our commitment to responsible breeding includes adhering to strict health testing and screening protocols and providing early socialization and training for our puppies. By prioritizing the well-being of our dogs, we can guarantee that our Bolonoodle puppies will make wonderful companions for their future families. Ethical Breeding Practices Our ethical breeding practices begin with the careful selection of our breeding dogs. We choose only the healthiest and most temperamentally sound Bolognese and Poodle parents for our Bolonoodle puppies. We can ensure these traits are passed down to their offspring by selecting dogs with excellent health and temperament. We also maintain a limited number of breeding dogs and litters, allowing us to provide individualized care and attention to each dog and puppy. Our dogs are raised in a loving, family environment where they are treated as cherished family members. This nurturing environment helps our puppies develop into well-rounded, confident, and affectionate companions. Health Testing and Screening Health testing and screening are crucial aspects of our breeding program. Before breeding, we perform comprehensive health tests on the Bolognese and Poodle parents to identify and prevent any potential genetic health issues from being passed down to the puppies. Some of the tests we perform include: Hip and elbow evaluations to screen for dysplasia Eye examinations to detect progressive retinal atrophy and other eye conditions Genetic testing for breed-specific health concerns By conducting these tests, we can ensure that our Bolonoodle puppies have the best possible start in life and minimize the risk of future health problems. Socialization and Early Training At Little Teton Doodles, we understand the importance of early socialization and training for our Bolonoodle puppies. Proper socialization helps puppies develop into well-adjusted, confident, and friendly dogs. From a young age, our puppies are exposed to various people, animals, and environments, which helps them learn to adapt to new situations quickly. We also begin basic obedience and crate training with our puppies, laying the foundation for their future training and making the transition to their new homes smoother. By providing early socialization and training, we can ensure that our Bolonoodle puppies are well-prepared for their new families and will make excellent companions. Puppy Adoption Process At Little Teton Doodles, we strive to make puppy adoption as smooth and enjoyable as possible for you and your new Bolonoodle pup. Our step-by-step process ensures you are well-prepared to welcome your new furry family member into your home. By joining our list, you will receive updates on our puppies' availability and information about upcoming litters. It will help you stay informed and ensure you take advantage of the opportunity to adopt one of our adorable puppies. This deposit is non-refundable but can be transferred to a future litter if necessary. The deposit ensures that you are committed to adopting a puppy and helps us plan for the arrival of our new litter. We will provide photos, videos, and information about each puppy's temperament and personality to help you make the best decision for your family. Once you have selected your puppy, the final payment will be due. Step 4: Arrange to get Your Puppy Home After you have chosen your puppy and made the final payment, it's time to arrange for your new furbaby to join your family. You can pick up your puppy in person at our facility or arrange to ship it to your location. We will provide you with all the necessary information and support to ensure that your puppy's journey to your home is as smooth and stress-free as possible. We will also be available for ongoing support and advice as you and your new puppy begin your journey together. Contact Little Teton Doodles Today! Little Teton Doodles is dedicated to providing loving, healthy, and well-adjusted Bolonoodle puppies to families looking for the perfect companion. Our commitment to ethical breeding practices, comprehensive health testing, and early socialization and training ensures that our puppies are ready to become cherished members of their new families. When you adopt a Bolonoodle puppy from Little Teton Doodles, you can be confident that you are bringing home a loving, intelligent, and low-shedding companion that will bring joy and companionship to your family for years to come. Contact us today! That's why we offer a 1-year genetic life-threatening guarantee on all of our puppies. We also provide a certified veterinarian report for each puppy so you can be sure that they are healthy and happy. Bolonoodle One of the lesser-known Doodles is the Bolonoodle. These dogs are rising to the top of Doodle radar, and for a good reason. They are the perfect small dog for many people. But, do you think you are ready for the responsibility? Today we will talk about all the pros and cons of owning a Bolonoodle. If you can get through this list, you are a perfect match! Origins The Bolonoodle is a hybrid, which means that they are not a pure breed. They are half Bolognese and Half Poodle. Now the Bolognese is the perfect companion dogs from Italy. They have undergone meticulous breeding to make them the ideal pet for any family. The Poodle originated on the French and German border. They are excellent duck hunting dogs and highly intelligent. Their loyalty is what made people realize that they would make great house pets too. So, after careful breeding, the toy and mini-sized Poodles came about. These smaller Poodles are what we use to mix with the Bolognese. The Bolonoodle is a new breed that has only been around since .They are the perfect companion that cares about you and your family. Pros Of Owning A Bolonoodle Now that we see where the Bolonoodle comes from, we can understand how they interact in our lives. First, we will look at all the fantastic qualities that make them an excellent dog to have. Hypoallergenic One of the best aspects of the Bolonoodle is that they are hypoallergenic. Having a low shedding dog is excellent for anyone who has asthma or allergies. A word of caution, though. Hypoallergenic dogs can still cause a reaction for people severely allergic to dogs. Since all dogs produce dander and saliva, there are no dogs that are truly hypoallergenic in this sense. Temperament Your Bolonoodle has the perfect temperament for a lap dog. They are patient and very relaxed. You will notice that not much bothers this Doodle. They enjoy spending time with their owners and playing games. This Doodle is brilliant, but can sometimes get into a little trouble. If they get bored throughout the day, they might get mischievous. Overall they are a loyal and dedicated companion. Training Most people want a dog that is easy to train. And lucky for you, the Bolonoodle is eager to please and loves a challenge. You can use this to your advantage by using a positive reinforcement training method. Doing so will get you a well-behaved dog that learns quickly. Energy Level The Bolonoodle is a very laid back dog. They are considered a moderately active dog that does well with short walks and playtime. Puppies generally have more energy, but you may find as your dog gets older, they need more encouragement. Without daily walks and the right amount of playtime, they become obese, and that brings on a whole other bout of problems. Bolonoodles thrive more off mental stimulation. They love to have something to do at all times. Favorite activities include training, puzzles , chewing, and playing with you. If they do not feel that they are getting enough, they might resort to bad behaviors. These dogs are known for getting into closed areas to make a little trouble. To keep this from happening, you will want to have a wide variety of toys that you rotate every week. Low Barking When most people think of small dogs, they think of a little yappy thing. That is not true of the Bolonoodle. They typically only bark when necessary, and can be taught not to bark at certain things. Size The Bolonoodle has such a large personality in such a small body. The Bolonoodle only gets pounds when fully grown. This size makes them perfect for apartments, along with their low energy and barking. And smaller dogs are cheaper all around to care for. Lifespan Small dogs have longevity like no other. The Bolonoodle has a life expectancy of years. And sometimes they live much more. If you pick a puppy in good health and of impeccable breeding, you may get almost 20years with your best friend. And since Bolonoodles are relatively common, you should be able to find a breeder close to you. That cuts costs more on shipping and visiting your puppy before you bring them home. Since they are so slow to anger, it makes them great for children of all ages. Their size makes them perfect for small toddlers, as large breeds knock over children often. Apartment Friendly We already mentioned that these Doodles are suitable for apartments. But this is a major plus for people who have a hard time finding the perfect apartment dog. Their low barking is something all your neighbors will appreciate. But there are a few things that you should be aware of before getting a Bolonoodle. Grooming The biggest con of owning a Bolonoodle is how much grooming they require. Bolonoodles might have a hypoallergenic coat, but with it comes a lot of maintenance. You will need to have several grooming supplies on hand like combs, brushes, and dematting tools. If your dog has any mats left, then you will need to use the dematting rake. After all the knots are out, then you will need to brush your dog to pick up what little shed there is. Severely matted dogs have an increased risk of yeast, fleas, fungus, and even pain. When you brush them daily, you are making sure that they are staying healthy. Another part of grooming the Bolonoodle is taking them to the salon. Your dog will need to see a professional groomer every weeks for a hair cut. Small size is another plus for this because most groomers charge by size. Nevertheless, it still can get expensive. Mental Stimulation We mentioned before that Bolonoodles need a lot to keep them busy. This can be a con for full-time workers. It can take a lot of trial and error to see what will keep your dog happy while you are away. And it can be expensive trying to keep a proper rotation of toys. At any given point, you want about ten toys for your dog to play freely. Then you will want to have another set of toys that they use when you are gone for hours at a time. These should be brainteasers, interactive toys, or puzzles. And on top of it all, you will want to have enough toys to switch every couple of weeks. Separation Anxiety Keeping your dog from getting bored is only half the worry. The Bolonoodle is notorious for getting separation anxiety and do best with owners that spend a lot of time at home. If you work or travel a lot, a Bolonoodle may not be the right fit for you. If someone is home for the majority of the day, they do wonderfully for a few hours a day alone. But for their mental health , it is best not to get one if you work over 40 hours a week. Health All dog breeds have certain medical conditions they are prone to getting. Bolondoodles are prone to: Obesity.

Download an adoption application here Please email the completed application to adoptionteam1. PRESTON is eager for any adventure you have in store, but also knows when to settle down and curl up next to you while you catch up on your favorite shows. His engaging personality and friendly disposition will make for a smooth introduction to any of your current family members. PRESTON is well on his way to mastering his house breaking etiquette and does well in his crate when his foster family is away from the house. No need to stress if you need to slip away from the house for a few hours-he will be there wagging his tail happily upon your return. We will reach out to you as soon as your application is processed. Thank you in advance for your patience. All of our dogs start their journey in Memphis, Tennessee where they remain in loving foster families until they are adopted. Once adopted, some pups stay local in Memphis. Many others travel via one of our transport partners to their new forever homes. For our Midwest adopters, we have our own private transport. Breed selection is done in conjunction with two local vets and is not to be considered a guarantee but rather a well-educated decision from well qualified staff. Due to the extremely high volume of inquiries we receive, we ask that you request, complete, and submit an application before asking additional questions. We try very hard to include all pertinent information in our bios. We are excited to help you find your new family member. We want to spend our time saving dogs and assisting those adopters who have taken the time to complete an application. Thank you for understanding. Thank you for choosing rescue!! Exercises Grooming From ancient Germany precisely around the 19th century had the now extinct mastiff breed Bullenbeisser and bulldogs brought in from England. At the time of their arrival, they served as hunting dogs for bears, deer, and other ferocious beasts, it would capture the prey with the help of its awesome teeth and detain it until the hunter arrives. And in the first boxer standard club was launched with a comprehensive document that is still in use today. Shortly after, the breed made its way into other European countries and got into the U. S in the late 19th century with the American Kennel Club taking registration of its first boxer around .During the first world war, boxers played the role of a military dog as a pack-carrier, a guard dog, and an attack dog, later they were taken home by the soldiers and got introduced into the domestic world as a show dog, best companion, and a reliable guard. One with so much life, energetic, curious, attentive, active, smart, sociable and incredible fun with children is the boxer, they are also known to be very patient and highly protective of their family members making them the love and desire of many homes. As active dogs, they need a lot of exercise to keep them mentally fit, apparently having a mind of its own, you will find your boxer entertain itself by digging the ground often, chewing, and licking the mouth to beat boredom. They are also very stubborn in character which makes them a terrible choice for first-timers with dogs, they are generally a bit difficult with adult dogs including dogs of a similar breed but friendly with puppies. They usually do not bark unless there is a genuine reason behind it but they love to growl. If you have occupied home with people around all the time or you want a canine buddy the whole time, then a boxer is just the perfect breed to get. Being a highly active dog, they dread loneliness and they can cope finely in both a house and an apartment as long as you provide it with enough room and spaces for exercises and activities. What you must have is a large yard if you are living in a house for it to dig the ground and run around as it likes. And more so, if you are given to being away from home most of the time, getting a boxer may not be the best for you and the dog, because they usually get aggressive when left alone. Boxers are known as loud snorers and they drool greatly too. Boxers are playful and very energetic dogs as such regular exercises are part of a good canine relationship, especially a breed of this sort. Your boxer should be allowed to play in a fenced area and on-leashed since it is likely to jump and leap around in excitement. This puts a boxer as a bad choice for a frail owner as they may find it a tad impossible and daunting keeping up with its excessive activity demands. Being a breed with a short and thin coat its grooming demands are quite easy and little, all it needs is a light brushing of the hair twice every week to maintain its good and gleeful looks. Bathing should be a once in a while since boxers are generally clean dogs and its nails, be trimmed once every month or as often as they grow worn on surfaces, its teeth should also be brushed daily to avoid tartar formation and other dental crises. Our Boxer puppies for sale come from either USDA licensed commercial breeders or hobby breeders with no more than 5 breeding mothers. We only purchase puppies from the very best sources, and we stand behind every puppy we sell. Frequently Asked Questions Are Boxers good family pets? Yes, boxers are particularly fond of their family members especially when goodly trained. Are Boxers trainable? Though the boxers can be a little headstrong, they are very intelligent and with a proper training environment, they respond well. Are Boxers friendly with kids? They are very fond of children and they love playing games with them. Are Boxers friendly with other animals? Boxers are naturally patient with puppies, pooches and small animals but a bit unaccommodating of adult dogs and other animals. Are Boxers good apartment dogs? They can live anywhere you make as a home all you need is to provide it with enough space for exercise. How is Boxers shedding? Given the shortness of their coat, they shed minimally and occasionally, you can also regulate the shedding by frequent brushing of their coat. Are Boxers good for first-time owners? Not quite, as their exercise needs are way too high for their inexperienced hands. Are Boxers loud barkers? But growling is a thing they do most. Are Boxers tolerable to heat and cold? All they need is moderate exposure to heat and cold because of their thin fur body. How long can Boxers live? The average life-span of boxers is 10 years Are you interested in purchasing a Boxer? Fill out the below form and we'll get back to you as soon as possible. Welcome to the Tennessee state page on TrustedPuppies. Famed for its rich musical history, breathtaking landscapes, and warm hospitality, Tennessee is a fantastic place to find and raise your new Boxer companion. Our goal is to connect you with the most exceptional Boxer breeders and puppies for sale in the region, ensuring you find the perfect furry friend for your family. Our site features a wide variety of reputable breeders who specialize in raising healthy and happy puppies. Our Tennessee breeders are committed to raising the highest quality puppies. They provide their puppies with all the necessary vaccinations and veterinary checkups to ensure they are in the best of health before they go to their forever homes. They also provide ongoing support and advice to ensure a smooth transition for both you and your new furry friend. Discover the vibrant dog-friendly scene in Tennessee, featuring inviting restaurants, spacious dog parks, and engaging dog shows. For those passionate about dog shows, events like the Nashville Kennel Club Dog Show provide an opportunity to appreciate the elegance and charm of Boxer canines while connecting with fellow enthusiasts. With an estimated thousand dogs residing in the state, Tennessee ranks 27th in the nation for dog ownership. At TrustedPuppies. Most of our reputable Boxer breeders provide safe and affordable flight delivery, complete with a dedicated flight nanny who accompanies your new pup throughout their journey, ensuring their safety and comfort as they travel to their new home in Tennessee. Many breeders also offer affordable vehicle delivery, utilizing specialized pet delivery services. This option allows your Boxer puppy to be transported directly to your door by a professional who understands the unique requirements of pet transportation. Begin your search for the perfect Boxer puppy on TrustedPuppies.

They have a short muzzle and have been bred to have an even and pleasant temperament which makes them a great companion for families with children. They are very playful in nature and even have some hilarious moments as they thrive for human attention and long, lasting friendships. French Bulldogs are typically less than 28 pounds. They're consistently in the top 10 of most popular registered dog breeds in America. Before you start asking where can I find a "French Bulldog for sale near me" you need to make sure it's the right breed for you. Here is everything you need to know about French Bulldogs, including their history, appearance, disposition, activity level, care needs, and cost. History French Bulldogs are the result of a cross between Toy Bulldogs imported from England and local ratter dogs in Paris, France, in the s. The breed was then exported to France, where it became known as the Bouledogue Francais. In , these dogs were brought back to England and they eventually made their way to America. Frenchies are now their own specific breed. Appearance When it comes to appearance, the number one thing people associate with them are their large, bat-like ears that are set high on their heads. French Bulldog puppies for sale typically have a stocky build with short legs, a large head, and a stubby tail. A French Bulldog puppy has a wrinkly appearance and a short nose and muzzle. French Bulldogs typically weigh between 20 and 28 pounds and stand 12 to 16 inches tall at the shoulder. Their incredibly gorgeous, short-haired and long-haired coats come in several colors and patterns, such as fawn, tan, brown, chocolate, cocoa, blue or dilute, cream, lilac, Isabella, black, brindle, piebald, and merle. Disposition If you're looking for a small, lovable companion dog, you can't go wrong with a Frenchie. These dogs are known for their affectionate, gentle nature and loving, easygoing personality, and they make great pets for families with children. They can be lively and hilarious. Searching for "French Bulldog puppies near me for sale" and finding the right pup will leave you a companion dog through and through. They love nothing more than to cuddle up with their favorite person and they make excellent lap dogs. They do well in homes with children and other pets, although they can be a bit boisterous at times. They don't bark much and don't like to be left alone for long periods of time. French Bulldog puppies thrive in any environment from apartments to rural areas. Activity Level Looking for French Bulldogs for sale may have you wondering how much exercise a Frenchie requires to be happy and healthy. They are relatively inactive dogs and don't require a lot of exercise, although they do enjoy occasional walks and playtime. They are a great choice for busy people. You won't need a large yard for a Frenchie. Grooming Requirements French Bulldogs are relatively low-maintenance in terms of grooming needs. They can have a short coat that is smooth and soft to the touch. Some long-haired French Bulldog puppies are called Fluffies. When it comes to grooming, French Bulldog puppies only need to be brushed occasionally, and their nails should be trimmed regularly. They are also moderate shedders, so you'll need to do some regular vacuuming to keep your home clean. Training Opting for a French Bulldog puppy for sale is the perfect choice if you're looking for a funny, even-tempered, social pup. Training them can be more challenging since they are so incredibly stubborn. These dogs have big personalities and a mind of their own. You can make training a French Bulldog puppy into a game and offer rewards like food or treats, praise, and playtime. However, with consistency and motivation, their people-pleasing personality will have them trained in no time. Cost If you're wondering, where can I find a "French Bulldog puppy for sale near me? French Bulldog puppies for sale can be higher priced due to their coat length, genetic makeup, and rare coat colors, including which genes they carry, such as the intensity coat color gene variant, dilution, merle, lilac, or Isabella. They also have some health problems that can be expensive to treat, such as hip dysplasia, patellar luxation, and respiratory issues, so be aware of these expenses in addition to regular veterinarian care. However, with proper care, a Frenchie can be a loving and loyal companion for years to come. When looking for Frenchies for sale, it's crucial to factor in the ongoing costs beyond just the initial price. Food, toys, veterinary care, vaccinations, and other ongoing expenses should be taken into consideration. For instance, if you're planning to travel with a fluffy friend, be ready to pay for a pet-friendly transportation service. However, for many owners, the joy and companionship that these beautiful pups provide are well worth the investment. If you're looking for French Bulldog puppies near me, be sure to research breeders carefully. A trustworthy breeder with Frenchie puppies for sale will provide documentation of vaccinations and other health records for their puppies. A good breeder will also be happy to answer any questions you have about the breed, including size, temperament, and grooming needs — so don't be afraid to ask away! Some unscrupulous breeders are known for selling sick or poorly-bred puppies, so it's important to find a reputable source like Pawrade offering happy, healthy French Bulldog puppies for sale through pre-screened breeders. Why Pawrade? Finding a reputable breeder has never been easier Ready to find your perfect French Bulldog? Pawrade is dedicated to connecting loving families with a dog that needs a home. Using Pawrade to browse for a French Bulldog for sale is a reliable way to ensure that you get a dog from a reputable breeder. Our focus is on the health of the dog and ethical, sustainable breeding practices. We ensure that the breeders on our platform are genuine, so you have peace of mind in knowing that you are receiving exactly what you expect. If you've always dreamed of owning this type of dog, choose Pawrade for your French Bulldog for sale and begin a new chapter in your life today! Stop searching for "French Bulldog puppies near me" — you've come to the right place! We understand just how difficult it is to find a legitimate breeder, so we've put our experience and expertise to work for you. Why wait any longer? Browse through our vast selection of puppies for sale from a safe and reputable source. No Puppy Mill Pledge We have zero tolerance toward puppy mills and pride ourselves in connecting you with honest and reputable breeders where puppies are raised with love and compassion. Learn More Health Guarantee As fellow puppy owners, we know the importance of having a happy and healthy puppy. Every puppy is backed by our comprehensive health guarantee. Life Span Did You Know? While the name of this breed is the French Bulldog, their origins cannot be credited to only France. One of the facts about French Bulldogs is that the idea and reason for the creation of the breed originated in England. This adorable dog breed, which has always been meant to be a companion, started as a miniature version of the English Bulldog. This mini-version accompanied lace workers across the English Channel and into France during the Industrial Revolution. Once the dog breed became prominent in France, the subsequent successful crossbreeding of the English Bulldog, Pug, and Terrier led to the creation of the modern-day Frenchie. The French Bulldog we know today originally came to the United States with groups of wealthy Americans who came across them and fell in love while touring Europe in the late s. The French Bulldog was recognized by the American Kennel Club in and is a member of the non-sporting group. The French Bulldog is an easygoing, affectionate, and playful dog that loves their family and gets along well with children. They also love to make new friends, which means they get along well with other dogs, animals, and people. Intelligent and affectionate, this small dog breed certainly wins over hearts and earns its status as a popular companion dog. Frenchies are not known to bark much, unless you train them into it, but they are naturally alert and make excellent watchdogs. As long as they are well-socialized and trained, they tend to have an open and friendly nature. The Frenchie is a highly adaptable dog that pretty much adapts to any living situation that includes plenty of love and attention. Being a short-snouted, snub-nosed dog breed, they do not tolerate heat very well and are also sensitive to cold. This tends to make them one of the dog breeds that hate winter and you will want to make sure to bundle them up to stay warm while out on cold winter walks. Because Frenchies bond closely with their families and thrive on attention from them, they do not tolerate long periods of time alone. They can also be prone to developing separation anxiety if they are poorly socialized or you do not work with them on this when they are young. Potential health concerns to be aware of in French Bulldogs can include cataracts, cherry eye, and entropion. Good breeding practices make a big difference in the health of puppies. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. Make sure you ask about the health and genetic history of both parents. You can also ask about any health tests or clearances. Heart and joint certifications are recommended for this breed. Playful and happy, the French Bulldog is a great fit for a novice dog owner. They are sweet-tempered, eager to please, and eager to train. Occasionally, Frenchies can be stubborn and they do tend to have big personalities. Although this can sometimes be a challenge for first-time dog owners, it can usually be overcome with consistent and patient training. Puppy training classes are always an option and offer plenty of benefits aside from training. Standard coat colors for Frenchies are Brindle, Cream, Fawn, and combinations of these. They have a short coat that will shed a little year-round. Nail trims once or twice a month keep nails from growing too long and causing issues. Weekly ear checks, along with careful cleanings as needed, can help prevent ear infections. As a small dog breed, the Frenchie is more prone to developing gum disease. Daily dental care plus cleanings at the vet as needed can help prevent this and other painful dental diseases later in life. You will also need to take care of the wrinkles. Frenchies have hereditary face wrinkles and it is important to keep them clean and dry to prevent skin irritation or possible infection. The French Bulldog is an easygoing companion breed. They can be one of the laziest dog breeds that are couch potatoes. Frenchies will often be energetic when they play and will try to match their activity to yours. So, if you live a more active lifestyle, you need to be careful that your French Bulldog is not overexerting themselves trying to keep up with you. As a Brachycephalic or snub-nosed dog, they cannot cool themselves as easily and are extra sensitive to heat. They can also get winded easily, so be aware of this when playing with your dog or puppy and watch for signs of overexertion. There are safe ways to exercise flat-faced dogs and you can work with your vet on specifics for your Frenchie if needed. French Bulldogs usually stand inches tall and weigh pounds. Frenchies generally live for years on average. With this dog breed being so popular, there are plenty of celebrities who have chosen the French Bulldog as their companion, which also means there are plenty of famous Frenchies out there. Also, French Bulldogs cannot swim, at least without a life vest. They can be taught to swim while wearing one, but they should never be left unattended around bodies of water or swimming pools and require constant supervision while in the water. Featured French Bulldog Article.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Our high quality, health tested and beautiful dogs are achieved through our knowledge and careful care as professional breeders. We import our lines and take special care to keep health as our number one priority in our Golden puppies. We also have a keen eye for good looks! Please browse our website for resources on choosing puppies carefully, and please consider getting to know us. Our Puppy Process What is our deposit? We have a real business so we do things professionally. How do you pick your puppy? We temperament test our puppies and observe them since birth. We are professionals at matching puppies with families lifestyles, but the choice is ultimately yours, which puppy you get. Our Golden Retriever puppy pick-outs are at around 6 weeks. We allow you to choose out of a group of puppies depending on your pick spot. Our out-of-state buyers usually use Facetime or Facebook to pick their puppies out with live video. You'll see weekly videos and pictures of the puppies as they grow, so you it will be an informed decision for you to choose when it's your turn. We will share with you their temperaments, sizes and builds, so you get a great match. You are also welcome to visit the farm and pick your puppy out in person. Most of our buyers reserved to visit once when they pick their puppy up at 8 weeks. English Golden Retriever Puppies We know that your puppy will be your family member for life. The greatest part of our job is the magical moments that you first get to hold your English Golden Retriever puppy. It often brings tears to everyone's eyes. If you are interested in one of puppies, please reach out. We are diligent to follow up with every inquiry. We look forward to hearing from you. We live on a gorgeous acre hobby farm that we built from the ground up for our family and animals. Our son and daughter and both breeders. Our Son's family lives in Idaho and our Daughter lives in Maryland. We are in Western Pennsylvania. We have many happy families with our dogs in Massachusetts. One of the benefits to our network is that we can be a local breeder for both sides of the country. Please reload Yes, email me when Golden Retriever puppies are available. Message sent. Daisy-Gold Goldens have champion lineage, but are bred as loving family dogs. She was my initial introduction to the European Golden. It has taken several years to acquire knowledge about the European Golden. At the Guisachan House, the home of Lord Tweedmouth, in the ruggedly beautiful county of Inverness in the north Scottish highlands, it was here the first Yellow Retrievers were bred and raised. Lord Tweedmouth carefully worked out a plan to make a yellow retriever breed. Lord Tweedmouth gave many puppies he bred to friends, others were put out with keepers and bred from, so that the yellow Retrievers in the hands of gundog men, at that time seldom interested in pedigrees but only in how their dogs worked, would have been crossed with black Retrievers or with Setters, without compunction. They must have passed their hip and elbow exams by OFA or OVC if from Canada and must have a heart clearance from a veterinary cardiologist, as well as a yearly eye exam from a veterinary opthamologist, stating they are eligible to receive CERF certification. This gives us additional information to help us make wise breeding decisions, always striving to improve the future of our Goldens. Because of our commitment to the breed and complexities of breeding, it is our strict policy to sell all puppies on AKC Limited Registration Status only, unless I am dealing with breeders already known to me. We do not keep more than 4 active bitches females in our breeding program here at Daisy-Gold Goldens at any one time. Daisy-Gold Goldens are bred for temperament and health. All puppies are home raised, well socialized and receive constant attention. They are started on basic obedience training prior to going to their new homes. Our goal is to raise a well adjusted, happy puppy that you can live with. Thank you for visiting our website. Daisy Gold Goldens has 3- 4'x12' areas for whelping up to three litters at one time. Enough room for play and litter box training until about 5 weeks of age. They then have an extra 9'x12' area for play. The whole area is well lighted, heated, and air conditioned. The floor is non-slip vinyl. The pups listen to classical music with intermittent everyday noises so they will be desensitized. Breeders VS. The sad truth is that many pet store purchased pups actually come from puppy mills. Basically, there is zero authenticity with pet stores. When it comes to adopting any animal from a pet store, there is an increased risk of unforeseen health or genetic problems. You also cultivate a life-long relationship with the breeder, meaning support is available to you anytime you may need it. With My Golden Retriever Puppies , you have the option to come and visit both the puppy and the breeder in person! Golden Retrievers are an adaptable breed, meaning they are better at adapting to seasonal changes and various types of climate than certain other breeds. Goldens sport a double-coat, which ensures that these sweet pups are able to tolerate slightly colder temperatures than their friends from other breeds. Your pup deserves better than that, which is why here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we ensure high-quality care is taken of your pet at all times. For more about the true price of a golden retriever puppy, you can read our full price breakdown here. Location Information for Massachusetts Customers Our home office is located in Ohio, but we understand that long-distance travel can be inconvenient. If you prefer to meet a breeder in person, they may be able to offer private visits at their home. Of course! Here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we value family and authenticity, which is why we always guarantee our pups through our 2-year genetic health guarantee. Like adopting a Golden Retriever from a pet store, there is an increased risk when adopting a pup from a rescue center or shelter as well. For example, pups purchased through a shelter or rescue center are far less likely to come with the kinds of health guarantees and reassurances that a breeder can provide. What type of Golden Retrievers are sold in Massachusetts? We have some good news! Ready to make your Golden Retriever dreams come true? Take a look at our convenient list of available puppies. How do I know which breeders to trust in Massachusetts? Our independent network of trusted breeders have already been pre-screened and verified, so that you can focus on what really matters: choosing your dream puppy. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved.

They Are Naturally Mouthy Golden Retrievers are a mouthy breed, to begin with, they are naturally inclined to pick up and hold anything and everything in their mouths. While it may seem like there is something wrong with your puppy to cause him or her to bite so much, rest assured, all puppies bite, not just Golden Retriever puppies. Play Behaviour When you see a litter of pups play together, they often nip and bite at one another. It is their way of socializing and initiating play. Your puppy will bite and nip at you during playtime with you because it is a natural behaviour to them. They Are Teething Many people associate puppy biting with teething, however when a puppy is teething they will resort to chewing and mouthing in order to relieve their pain. They may chew or mouth on your hands and fingers, but teething is not the cause of biting that every puppy owner experiences. Puppy biting is most often just play. To summarize, puppy biting is normal and should be expected as a puppy owner. In general, biting will naturally subside in Golden Retriever puppies around the age of months. This is around the time that their adult teeth have come in. Puppies at this age usually already know how to moderate their bite, and will not bite or nip at you as much as they did when they were younger. While biting anything and everything is normal behaviour to your puppy, it is not something that you want your puppy to continue to do. It is up to you to teach your puppy not to bite humans, especially children. Take a look at the common mistakes puppy owners often make, and learn to avoid them. Puppies who are excited bite more. Children often fall victim to the most puppy bites because they get very excited around puppies and this just gets the puppy going which results in biting. Any attention that you give your puppy after they bite you will seem like a reward to your puppy, and the biting will just continue. Yelling at your puppy, pushing them away, talking to your puppy, or even looking at them is giving them the attention that they want. Bite inhibition is when your puppy learns how to control the strength of his bite. Puppies learn this skill when they are with their littermates, which is why they need to stay with them and their mother until they are 8 weeks old. Playing with their littermates teaches puppies that biting too hard hurts and will end playtime. The puppy then learns to bite softer. When your puppy comes home with you, it is up to you to teach your puppy how to control the force of their bite. Biting down on the thick fur coat of his mother or littermates is a lot different than biting down on human skin. By not teaching your puppy bite inhibition, you will risk your puppy turning into a dangerous adult. Puppy bites are a lot different than adult dog bites. Once your puppy learns how to control the strength of his bite, eventually the bites become gentler, and in time, your puppy will learn to stop biting altogether. This is part of teaching your puppy bite inhibition. This is a way to mimic how puppies play together, when one puppy bites another puppy too hard, that puppy yelps in pain, and will walk away. In some cases, puppies could get even more worked up by the noise and keep on biting. This is when you need to walk away. When your puppy has calmed down, you can resume playing with your puppy. When your puppy bites you again, repeat the steps of yelping and walking away. Eventually, your puppy will learn to soften his bite, because biting too hard ends playtime. The following video discusses why puppies bite, how to teach bite inhibition and how to survive puppy biting. It is a good idea to have a few chew toys on hand to offer up as a distraction from your skin. Check out this list of the best teething toys for puppies. This will get your puppy to stop and focus on being obedient. A great way to solve boredom is by going for a walk with your puppy. How much exercise should you give your Golden Retriever puppy? A good rule of thumb is 5 minutes of exercise for every month that your puppy is alive. So a 3-month-old puppy should get 15 minutes of exercise a day, a 5-month-old puppy should get 25 minutes per day, and so on. This is in addition to and not instead of playtime. Bitter Apple Spray can also be used to prevent your puppy from nipping and biting at you. Before you interact with your puppy, spray it on your arms, legs, pant legs, or sleeves, anywhere that your puppy likes to nip at you. Once your puppy bites at you, he will get a bad taste in his mouth and will stop. Bitter Apple Spray may not work on all puppies, some may actually develop a taste for it. I know that when my Golden Retriever Ellie was a pup this stuff worked amazingly well, but as she got older she developed a taste for bitter things such as crab apples which are extremely sour and she once sucked on a vinegar packet that was lying on the ground! Reward Good Behaviour Every time your puppy stops biting and nipping at you, you need to see this as positive behaviour. Good behaviour should be rewarded so that your puppy learns that he did something good. Rewarding good behaviour with affection and praise is great, you can also use treats, or toys, sometimes the best reward for your puppy is just spending time with them. Be Patient and Consistent Owning a puppy requires a lot of patience! It is so easy to lose your patience at times, but you need to know that your puppy is learning what is right and wrong, and that takes time. It might not happen overnight, but as long as you remain consistent and patient, your pup will learn good behaviour. If your puppy is nipping at your pant legs or sleeves, chances are he is loving the tugging feeling and is actually already playing tug-of-war. Instead of using your clothing, redirect his attention to a rope toy. One thing to be careful of is being too rough with tug-of-war, especially when your puppy is going through his teething phase. A game of fetch offers your pup a distraction from biting, and Golden Retriever puppies naturally love to retrieve things. This is a great way to also teach your puppy to drop it, by offering a treat when your puppy drops the ball or rope toy. A well-socialized puppy will be less likely to exhibit any unwanted behaviours later on. Enrolling your pup in puppy kindergarten or arranging some play dates with other dogs who are friendly and vaccinated is a great way for your pup to learn social skills. Other dogs are sometimes the best teachers for a puppy because they will let your puppy know what is okay for play and what is not okay, in terms of biting and nipping. Always supervise your puppy while playing with other dogs. Yelling at your puppy will only make your puppy scared and confused as well as lose trust and respect for you. Common mistakes people make when their puppy is biting are pushing them away, clamping down on their mouths or spraying them in the face with water. All of these are a bad idea! Your puppy could see this behaviour as a form of play and continue biting and nipping at you even harder. If you remain calm and use a firm voice not yelling , your pup will see you as in charge. Puppies and dogs often exhibit the same behaviour as we do, if you get upset and start yelling, your puppy will just get even more excited. As unpleasant as puppy biting is, it is normal behaviour. Your puppy biting and nipping at you with a mouth full of shark teeth may seem aggressive, but it is most often just out of curiosity and play behaviour. Golden Retrievers are known for their calm and gentle demeanour, but there are rare instances where you may have an aggressive puppy on your hands. Puppies who have been taken away from their litter earlier than weeks, bad breeding, being abused, a chemical imbalance, and not being socialized are all reasons for aggression in puppies. Signs of an aggressive puppy include barking, growling, lunging at you or another dog, a stiff posture, and showing teeth. If you think your puppy is aggressive, it is important to work with a professional dog trainer or behaviourist in order to find out the reasons for aggression and work on correcting the behaviour before it gets worse. It is important to keep your calm and work with your puppy to teach him the important skill of bite inhibition, and to redirect his biting to more appropriate behaviour. Socializing your puppy, as well as rewarding good behaviour will all help to turn your puppy into a well-behaved dog. Have you tried any of the tips mentioned above? Do you have any other tips to stop Golden Retriever puppy biting? Share your thoughts and comments below, as well as any questions you may have. I would love to hear from you. Jenny I am the proud owner of a Golden Retriever named Ellie. She keeps me busy, and when she is resting, you can find me working on my blog. She is always close by though. I live in Stirling, ON Canada with my husband, and we both enjoy the never a dull moment life with our Ellie. Spread the love. But much like other puppies, a Golden Retriever puppy has a tendency to chew and bite. So, how can you train your Golden Retriever puppy not to bite? Consistency is the key to teaching your Golden Retriever puppy not to bite. However, you have to train your dog to behave, and that includes keeping them from biting. This article may contain affiliate links and loyalgoldens may earn a commission if a purchase is made. Unlock your goldens natural intelligence and see just how quickly problem behaviors disappear. This is the best at home dog training I've ever used! Get up and walk away from the dog. Leave the room if you can. Focus on something else for a bit. And believe me, a Golden Retriever puppy or not always wants your attention! Now, you may not see immediate results with this method, but it will work over time if you remain consistent. Sending your new puppy mixed signals will only confuse him or her. You can pet your dog to reward them for not getting mouthy with your hand or fingers while playing. It can take a while to get to this stage, so be patient. When, your dog gets through an entire play session without biting, that deserves some extra love. Now, you have to be careful not to give too much attention when your dog does bite. If your Golden Retriever reverts to biting out of excitement or nervousness, immediately stop giving them attention. Turn away and ignore your dog like what you did before. Hopefully, they will get the message more quickly, so you can go back to playing without them biting. Use a firm tone rather than a cute tone you might use when praising your dog. When you say no, use physical signals to get your Golden Retriever to stop. Take your hand out of their mouth and move it out of reach. Make sure anyone who trains the dog uses the same firm tone. Tips to stop golden retriever pups from biting. Watch for Patterns Another way you can train your Golden Retriever puppy to stop biting is to watch for patterns. See if your dog tends to bite more at certain times of day, in the same room, or while playing with a particular toy. When your dog does bite, you can use other methods to get them to stop immediately. But after the fact, write down the date, time, and situation. If multiple people are training your dog, you should also log who your dog tends to bite. That way, you can see if there are patterns. Use Bitter Spray When you start training your Golden Retriever puppy, you may want to try using a bitter spray on your hands. Try this bitter spray Amazon , it works on your hands to stop chewing and biting and it also works on other things around the house that a new puppy might want to chew on like houseplants, furniture, etc. This can be an easy way to get your dog not to bite you. Now, this can be difficult if your dog bites other areas of your body, but it can help. You might get quicker results than if you only stuck to ignoring your dog. Have Lots of Toys Another excellent way to train your Golden Retriever to stop biting you is to use toys. You should be careful and use toys when your dog exhibits good behavior. But you can give your dog chew toys so that they have something they can bite. There is even a teething ring for dogs Amazon that you keep in the freezer and it provides something cool to chew on to help ease the pain during this period of your puppies life. Then, your dog will want to behave well when they play with you. Discover how to train your Golden Retriever by playing games : 21 games to play with your Golden that will make them smarter and better behaved! You can have a bag of small treats in your pocket that you use when playing with your dog. Whenever they go a long time without biting, you can give them a treat. You can also use the treats to distract your dog. If you know their patterns and when they usually bite, you can preempt that with a treat. Then, your dog can chew on the food rather than your hand. There are tons of treats out there, so go with something small. Try to avoid using treats as a bribe, and focus on making them a reward. That way, your dog can look forward to a treat for their good habits. Start As Soon as Possible Training your Golden Retriever puppy not to bite should start as soon as you bring your puppy home. If you wait until your dog gets into the habit of biting, it will be hard to break. You may still need to use various ways to train your dog, but it should be easier. Starting when your puppy is super young can also help them with other areas of their life. If you can train them not to bite, you will know how they learn best, which will help you train them for other things. It will also be harder if you use one method while your spouse uses another method. Everyone in your household should decide on how and when to train your Golden Retriever puppy. Use the same toys or treats, train your dog simultaneously, or use the same speaking tone. That way, your dog can learn from everyone rather than a single trainer. Then, you all can enjoy your Golden Retriever, and they can develop good habits. Final Thoughts Training a Golden Retriever to stop biting can take some time. You have to figure out when your dog bites and what triggers the biting. Then, you have to determine how your dog learns best and use that method to train your puppy. But once you find the perfect tool, your dog will learn to stop biting. Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click on a link and purchase the item. This comes at no extra cost to you. Wish your golden retriever puppy would stop biting so much? Puppy nipping is one of the most frustrating things about raising a new puppy—their teeth are razor-sharp, it hurts when they bite, and they can ruin your clothes! But why do puppies bite so much? Puppies bite to learn acquired bite inhibition, or ABI. What exactly is ABI? He might leap up and bite you because you hurt him and scared him. But the important thing is this: how hard will they bite? This is where ABI comes in. So ABI is really important. Now the question is, how do they learn it? The only way for puppies to learn ABI is to bite, and bite often. The best teachers are other dogs. Next time they bite a little less hard and playtime continues. This is how they learn ABI. Obviously, it takes a lot of repetition of this scenario to happen for a puppy to learn not to bite so hard, but this is essentially how it works out. Yes, you will need to help teach your puppy ABI. You can do this two ways: Set up puppy playdates and take them to puppy kindergarten so other puppies can teach them ABI. You actually want them to bite a little bit and learn to control how hard they bite. That being said, letting them go on a biting rampage is not helping the situation, so here are five tips to help you stop your puppy from biting so much: 1. Socialize your puppy Other dogs are the best teachers of ABI so make sure to get your puppy in kindergarten and set up playdates with dogs that you know are vaccinated. Remove yourself from the situation Puppies can often be over-stimulated or over-tired. One thing we did with our puppy, Oliver, when he got in these moods was to go sit at our high-top table in the kitchen and ignore him until he calmed down or distracted himself with a chew toy. Exercise your puppy A tired puppy is a good puppy. Young puppies have weak jaws, so if they had dull teeth, a bite from them would be no big deal. Most adult golden retrievers bite out of fear and a professional can help you properly handle it. Puppy Biting vs. Chewing Puppy biting or nipping is when a dog purposefully bites you. As we already talked about, they need to do this to learn ABI. Puppy chewing, on the other hand, is when puppies chew on things to relieve the pressure in their mouths from their adult teeth coming in. Since puppies bite and chew for different reasons, you need to handle these problems differently. Mentally wear them by out by training them, going for long walks and letting them sniff around, and giving them puzzle toys or frozen kongs. Remember that a tired puppy is a good puppy. A: It can take up to six weeks or more for your puppy to learn ABI and what is appropriate to bite or not. If it takes longer than six weeks, just remember to be consistent with the steps to stop it and have faith that it will slow down soon. Q: Is puppy biting an act of aggression? A: Most puppy biting is a form of play. It helps them learn ABI. If you think your puppy is biting out of aggression, then you should talk to a professional. Q: Why are puppy teeth so sharp? Q: What is ABI? A: ABI is acquired bite inhibition, or the natural ability for a dog to not bite so hard. Q: Do all puppies bite? A: Yes! Instead, they need to learn to control their bite force, then learn to bite less. Have any questions about puppy biting? Let me know in the comments below! Related articles:. You are bound to want to know when your biting puppy will grow out of this phase and how you can speed that process up. Biting, as you will have discovered is usually accompanied by lots of noise! Why do puppies bite? So why do puppies bite? My puppy is biting hard Puppies do bite hard and it does hurt. But I want to reassure you that even at 8 weeks old, your puppy has learned to moderate his bite in play. Puppies have powerful jaws designed to tear through flesh and crush bones. Those of you who feed your puppy a raw diet will know that even an 8 week old puppy from a medium sized breed can crush bones the size of your little finger. He is deliberately attempting to be gentle. Puppy Biting — Bite inhibition This ability, that your puppy has, to moderate the power of his jaws in play, is called bite inhibition. It is something that his mother started to teach him when he was just a few weeks old. And now it is your turn to take over and complete the training process. Growling and Puppy biting One thing that often worries people who have a new puppy in the family, is the growling that accompanies puppy biting. It sounds horrific. Great snarls and snaps accompany the biting and the puppy can appear quite demonic as he grabs onto your skin, or clothes. Tugging away with all the strength he can muster. Ninety nine times out of a hundred this is completely normal play biting. Is my puppy biting aggressive? You cannot determine whether or not a puppy is biting aggressively by how hard he bites or by the volume of the noise he makes. Play biting puppies bite hard and growl fiercely. Some puppies do occasionally draw blood. But these are not normally savage or crushing bites and the puppy is clearly enjoying himself. Fierce but fun! The play biting puppy will launch himself at the target of his bite. Whether it is your slippers or your fingers, with equal tail-wagging enthusiasm, hanging on grimly and grabbing repeatedly when the item is removed from him. All this, shocking though it may seem, is normal, and is not a sign that your puppy is going to be an aggressive dog! In fact some of the gentlest and most amiable breeds the labrador for example are the worst and fiercest play biters. The puppy that is a cause for concern is the puppy that is frightened. Because although puppies rarely bite through aggression, the nervous puppy may become aggressive as he matures Is my puppy afraid? A scared puppy may bite and scared puppies can grow into scared adult dogs so this is something you need to address quickly. You will know that your puppy is scared because he will try to avoid whatever it is he is scared of. A really frightened puppy will sometimes give off a distinctive musky smell. This hiding, and retreating, and the scared smell are warning signs that you have scared your puppy badly, or purchased a poorly socialised puppy. In this situation you need to get specialist help right away. Your vet should be able to advise you. For the vast majority of puppy owners then, biting is normal puppy behavior. Will my puppy biting stop naturally? To some extent biting is a phase caused by natural puppy playfulness and teething. Some puppies do stop biting with very little input from their family. Which is great. You may feel he should have grown out of it by now. We can physically prevent puppies from biting and we can train puppies not to bite. Both of these are good strategies. Or when children are getting upset, or visitors are winding your puppy up. Prevention usually involves interrupting the biting behavior, then redirecting the puppy into an alternative and more acceptable behavior, such as chewing on a toy. Or, it may involve temporarily separating him from his playmates. Interrupting the puppy biting In mild cases you may simply be able to put a toy in your biting puppy's mouth and get him tugging on that instead of on your fingers. If you are on the floor with the puppy stand up. And if you are standing up, turn and walk away from the puppy. This is where dog gates come in very handy with small puppies. A standard baby gate works fine for most breeds of dog. Managing the puppy You may have to pick up your biting puppy to remove him from the scene if he is biting your children for example, rather than you If he bites your hands and clothes as you try to restrain him, put him on the other side of a barrier or in his crate or puppy playpen for a short while. Although the puppy does learn from them, these are useful management techniques to enable you to control the situation. They help you to keep your puppy calm, and prevent the biting escalating through over excitement. Over-excited puppies Puppy play biting is directly linked to excitement. The more excited your puppy gets, the more and the harder he will bite. And the harder it will be to interrupt and distract him. Rough play excites puppies and noisy play does too. Children tend to squeal when they play and get very physical with puppies. One of the first rules they need to learn when playing with dogs, especially big dogs, is to stand up and stand still when the game gets too much. Limit such play and call a halt to it if your puppy is biting. With medium to large breed dogs, physical rough and tumble play is not a great idea. It can lead to dogs bowling people over or humping them, neither of which is very pleasant. Stopping play when it gets rough is a good management strategy and it is a form of training too. Over time, your puppy learns that biting and rough play loses him his playmates and that people simply leave if he is being mean. When do puppies stop biting? Many puppies have stopped biting completely by six months of age and biting is usually subsiding by the time that the puppy is heading towards five months old. This is if the puppy has been managed appropriately If people have been exciting him, or rewarding him for attention seeking behavior then biting can persist And it can be much more of a problem in bigger stronger puppies than in little ones. Training Puppies Not To Bite The idea of this exercise is to teach a puppy to accept being stroked and handled in any way, without touching us with his teeth. The event marker is a distinctive sound. Even around his mouth, without him making any attempt to bite you. You can also make it easier for him by starting this training when he is calm and not distracted. But for now, keep things simple. It can be a good way of getting the training started so that you have chance to say YES and give the puppy the opportunity to learn what you want him to do. Over the next few sessions, you can work on getting your hand closer and closer to the puppy. Until you are brushing the sides of his face without him making any attempt to mouth or bite at you Progress to touching and holding his collar, stroking his ears, grooming him, examining his paws and so on, all the time rewarding him for the correct behavior. Anytime the mouthing returns, back up to a point where he can succeed and move forward more slowly again Bite Inhibition Training Some experts feel that puppies should be allowed to mouth and even bite gently for a week or two before being prevented from biting altogether. Simply follow the instructions for managing your puppy above when he bites hard. But allow him to mouth you when he bites gently without much pressure. This is a great way to teach a dog excellent control over his mouth. After a couple of weeks of this, you can progress to the training exercise I outlined in the previous section. Older puppies that bite in play have often learned that this gets them a lot of attention. They have discovered that people squeal and shout and get quite cross. Sometimes these people push and shove the dog around which young dogs quite enjoy when they are playing. For these dogs it is important that you stop all physical play, with all family members If a puppy is biting hard at your hands when you try to interrupt his game. Or an older puppy is getting out of hand biting at clothing, you need to put your puppy on a harness and house-line a short trailing leash. This will enable you to control your puppy, and take him to a calming place, without handling him. You can just pick up the end of the line and lead him away. Older biting puppies are often bright and bored. And the best approach to avoiding future episodes of bad behavior is a structured programme of training and interesting activities. A professional dog trainer using modern positive training methods will be able to help you with these. Summary So now you know some tips on how to stop your puppy from biting. The first few weeks can be tough with a determined biter in the house, but you will get through this and come out the other side. A few months from now, this difficult period will be a distant memory In the meantime, focus on keeping your biting puppy calm, avoiding too much rough play, and redirecting his biting onto appropriate toys and activities. Spend some time on the training exercise set out above. Are you a proud new golden retriever puppy parent or considering getting a furry friend? While puppies are adorable and full of energy, they can also be a handful, especially when it comes to biting. This article will cover practical strategies to manage puppy biting and help you and your pup develop a solid and loving relationship. Thus biting is natural. Their bites will become softer as they practice and learn to manage their bite strength. They will eventually stop biting entirely. While biting is a natural part of the learning process, it is essential to train your puppy not to bite excessively. Here are a few tips to get you started: Providing Chew Toys for Redirecting Biting Behavior Providing chew toys is an excellent approach to help your puppy stop biting. When your puppy begins to bite you, remove your hand or foot and replace it with a chew toy. This teaches them that biting is acceptable, but only when done with toys, not people. It is essential to keep an eye on your puppy when they play with chew toys to ensure they do not consume anything toxic. By exposing your puppy to a variety of people, animals, and environments in a controlled and positive manner, you can help them develop proper social skills and reduce biting tendencies. Socialization helps puppies learn appropriate bite inhibition and establishes boundaries for acceptable behavior during interactions. Through well-planned socialization experiences, you can guide your puppy towards becoming a well-behaved and gentle companion. Employing the Time-Out Strategy for Persistent Biting Use the time-out strategy when other methods fail to stop your puppy from biting. If your puppy continues to bite, place him on a time-out for 30 seconds before allowing him to return to play. This teaches your puppy that biting is unacceptable and will result in a loss of playtime or attention. Again, use a gentle tone and avoid shouting or scolding your puppy. When your puppy plays gently with their toys instead of biting you, shower them with praise and perhaps even a tasty gift! This teaches your puppy that good behavior leads to beautiful things. Instead, concentrate on encouraging appropriate behavior and redirecting any inappropriate biting. Your puppy will learn to control their biting and play in a friendly and safe manner with time, patience, and positive reinforcement. This entails repeating the same commands, techniques, and rewards each time you train. When you do this, your puppy learns what is expected of them and how to get rewarded. On the other hand, if you are inconsistent, your puppy may get confused and unsure of what they need to do to please you. This can make training more difficult and frustrating for you and your puppy. So, strive to be consistent in your training. However, they can get nippy during their fun exploration of the world around them. The good news is that this is a natural habit for pups, and there are ways to deal with it. Puppies prefer to bite to initiate play, learn more about their surroundings, and adjust their bite pressure, especially when they are teething. These actions are part of how they play, interact, and learn about their environment. First, however, puppies must be taught how to control their biting pressure and redirect their biting to appropriate toys and chew objects, which we will discuss later. Puppy bites, for example, can become more painful and even harmful as they increase in size. Additionally, it might lead to destructive chewing if you do not divert their biting habit to appropriate chew items. As a result, it is critical to address this habit early on through regular teaching and positive reinforcement. Understand what motivates them and what makes them more likely to engage in biting. Adjust your training methods: Not all puppies respond to the same training techniques. Some may respond better to positive reinforcement, while others may require more redirection and distraction. Consider their energy levels: Golden Retrievers are known for their energy and enthusiasm. Be patient and consistent: Training takes time, and each puppy learns at their own pace. Be patient with your puppy and provide consistent guidance. Remember, every Golden Retriever puppy is an individual, and what works for one may not work for another. With a customized approach, you can effectively address biting behavior and set your unique puppy on the path to becoming a well-behaved and happy companion. So, most puppies begin to bite and mouth less frequently when they are 8 to 10 months old. However, this varies greatly depending on the individual pup. Some may stop sooner, while others may take a little longer. Golden retrievers, for example, love using their tongues. At the same time, herding dogs such as border collies or corgis may continue to nip at ankles as they age. Just keep working with your pet and providing the guidance they require to create positive habits! Conclusion As you begin the joyful road of raising your Golden Retriever puppy, keep in mind that training and socialization are essential for producing a happy and well-behaved dog. You can teach your puppy what is expected of them and create healthy behaviors that will last a lifetime using consistent and positive reinforcement techniques. Remember that each puppy is unique, and what works for one may not work for another. You will be rewarded with a devoted and well-behaved companion if you are patient and committed to the training process. Remember to give your puppy enough exercise and mental stimulation and to continuously reward positive behavior. You can help your puppy grow into a happy and healthy adult dog who will provide you happiness for many years by doing so. By the time your puppy reaches around three months of age, they should start to develop bite inhibition and learn to control the force of their bites during play. As you continue to interact and train with your puppy, you can gradually increase your sensitivity to the level of bites you find acceptable. By the age of four or five months, their play bites should no longer exert any force. Can I use physical punishment to stop my puppy from biting? Certainly not! To stop a puppy from biting, never use physical punishment. It is not only ineffective, but it can also be harmful and cause long-term behavioral issues. Instead, train your puppy using positive reinforcement techniques, including redirection, time-outs, and excellent rewarding behavior. What can I do? Puppies frequently nip and bite while playing with other dogs, but teaching them to control their bite force is essential. My puppy is teething. What can I do to stop them from biting? Teething is a normal developmental stage for puppies , and they naturally want to chew and bite things. Similar to what we discussed earlier. Galen has been connecting quality Golden Retriever breeders with loving families since and is the founder of My Golden Retriever Puppies. He and his wife have four children and love spending time together, traveling lived oversees for 4 years , enjoying the outdoors and connecting Golden families. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Read the full disclosure here. Tasty finger! Your golden retriever puppy is as friendly as can be — great with kids, respectful of other dogs, and not overly attentive to your cat. Yes, golden retrievers are known for their good-natured demeanor, but they are still dogs — not so very far removed from their wild cousins, and they can be unpredictable when faced with stressful, disturbing, or frightening situations. One of our jobs as responsible dog owners, of course, is to keep our dogs safe, but we may not always be able to protect them, and we may not always be able to prevent them from biting through fear or when in pain. What is Bite Inhibition? Puppies begin learning this from their mother and siblings as soon as they start to tumble around with each other in play. If they bite too hard, they are scolded by their mother or alerted with a yelp from their siblings. Eventually, they learn how hard is too hard, and they use their teeth more gently in play. Human Sensitive or Advanced Bite Inhibition By the time your puppy moves into your home, they will have been using their bite inhibition skills for weeks. Your puppy needs to learn that human beings are fragile and should be treated with care. There are many professional trainers who recommend that you simply train your puppy not to bite. This seems like a practical course of action, and it does work — in the short term. Teaching a puppy not to bite will give you quick results, but it may mean they never learn how much force is safe to use on people when they are forced to bite in an emergency. So if they do eventually bite, they will know to hold back the pressure safely and will not cause anywhere near as much pain or damage as they otherwise might. Why is Bite Inhibition Important? Believe it or not, even the most gentle dog that has been trained from a young age never to bite, can react to certain triggers. Those triggers are fear and pain. Consider these situations: Your dog has been suffering from chronic ear infections and hates to have his ears handled. The neighbor stops by with her toddler, who immediately runs to your dog and fondles his sensitive ears roughly. What will he do? You and your dog are walking down the road like you do every morning when out of nowhere comes a huge dog who attacks your dog without thinking twice. You manage to pull your dog away, but in the process, your frightened dog bites your arm. Your sweet golden retriever has gotten themself tangled in some barbed wire while hiking. As you loosen the wire from her skin and fur, she snaps at you, biting your hand. You may never experience any of these situations. By teaching bite inhibition while your puppy is young, you will be far safer and ready for any of these situations should they occur. Teaching Advanced Bite Inhibition Following is a general guide to the bite inhibition skills your puppy learns and when, as well as where you should aim for their skills to be at certain ages. She will start the puppies off by teaching them how rough is too rough during nursing and play. These lessons begin when the puppies start nursing day 1 and continue until the day you pick your puppy up from the breeder. This works for some puppies, but for others, it just seems to arouse the pup and make matters worse. You will have to experiment to find out what works for you and your pup. You should withdraw all of your attention from your puppy for very hard bites. Do not over-correct your puppy so they become afraid of biting. After your puppy has calmed down, use a chew toy as a reward and let them chew it in your lap or lying by your side. This teaches you puppy that there are other ways to keep their mouths and teeth busy. By four or five months, all force behind play bites should be eliminated. Kids tend to play rough with puppies, and puppies will get rough right back. Your puppy needs to know that every human being is sensitive to their bites, not just you. It is a process that sometimes lasts months, depending on your puppy. Be prepared for this, and remember that long-term results in your adult dog are more important than curtailing puppy bites as painful as they may be. Supervise your puppy around children — If you have young children at home, you will have to think carefully about how you will protect them and your puppy. Little puppy teeth can cause a lot of pain, especially when your pup is still learning to control those urges. Young children can also cause a lot of pain to small puppies. Always supervise very carefully when your pup and children are together. A tired puppy is a happy puppy — It will be much easier to teach bite inhibition if your puppy is not bouncing off the walls. Make sure they get enough exercise every day. Not only will this help with training, but it will also help prevent all kinds of other destructive behavior. Conclusion Teaching bite inhibition to your golden retriever puppy is a gift you give to your pup that will last forever.

Andorra and Spain I wouldn't use a front-fastening harness for a young puppy. They are generally used for stopping a dog from pulling, but don't help with training. Front fastener tend to either work by tightening around the dog as he pulls, making it uncomfortable to pull, which we'd call an aversive and most of us would choose to avoid. Or they work by preventing the dog from getting traction into the forwards motion, often by turning the dog slightly. If you have a problem with a dog pulling, and either have to have them on lead before they've been trained not to, or if you're physically unable to have the dog pulling you at all due to injury or somesuch, then they're fine. But in the case of a brand new puppy, I'd suggest that they're unnecessary, and you should be focussing on training him to walk without pulling from the get-go, which you can achieve perfectly well on a standard back-fastening harness. Since the puppy has no real weight to put behind it at this stage, you should be able to manage without the mechanisms in a front-fastener. I'd recommend looking at the articles on teaching your puppy to walk on a loose lead and start putting the recommendations into place immediately. Here are some articles that may help:. Also available in black, blue pink or yellow. At the connecting end, we find a snap hook attachment that is rust and corrosion resistant that will match the long lifetime of the leash. This is a very strong and stylish leash, perfect for everyday use whether on a daily walk or training session. And not everyone will agree, but we think leather leashes are the perfect match and most suitable style-wise for the noble looking Labrador. The Leather is stitched with extra strong thread, is double riveted both ends and is fitted with a larger than most 1 inch bolt snap for easy attachment and removal from a collar. This leash truly will last a lifetime! For attachment and removal to a collar there is a nickel plated bolt-style clip which is rust-proof and stain resistant, so will remain remain tarnish free for the life of the leash. The main benefit of such a leash over leather leashes is there is absolutely no care or upkeep necessary to keep it in tip-top condition. Available in 10 different colors, with very good feedback from previous buyers, this is a perfect leash for every day use with medium to large dogs. This leash has a zinc plated reverse-gate snap attachment for attaching the leash to your pooches collar. It has strong bar-tack stitching which is very durable and long-lasting. In fact it comes with a manufacturer guarantee that it will last — even if chewed! Easy to use and soft on the hands, perfect for every day use. Nice and lightweight, yet certainly durable and strong, a nice sized hand loop made of non-abrasive rope, with a simple thumb operated snap-bolt clip all makes this leash a pleasure to use and safe for controlling your dog. Certainly recommended! This style of lead is very easy to use, I personally keep one near my front door to easily slip on and off my dog because we have him collar free while in the home. The leash gets tighter if pulled from either end so if your dog pulls, it will tighten around their neck and be very uncomfortable. However, if yours is a dog who frequently runs away, or you feel you simply cannot allow to run off leash, this is a nice compromise. They get more freedom than with a 6-foot leash, but still cannot bolt free. This particular ribbon style retractable leash gives up to .This happens more than you might think! Single hand-operated hand braking, locking mechanism and recoil system gives you full, easy and intuitive control. Available in Blue, Black and Red. It comes with an instruction leaflet detailing how to use it correctly with safety in mind for you, your dog and everybody else around. The last thing you want when training distance commands is your dog to wander off and start sniffing up trees or chasing squirrels and a long leash such as this makes sure you can keep their attention on you and the training session. Backed up with a life time guarantee and a huge number of positive feedback reviews on Amazon, these long leashes come highly recommended. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. He runs off and starts getting into trouble before I can catch him. The only way to prevent this from happening to me is to choose a great dog leash, so I decided to write a guide to buying the best dog leash. A guide to help you through the process and make sure you have the right leash to suit your intended use. But essentially all dog leashes have the same basic purpose, to keep your dog safe and under control while out in public and as an aid for you to manage your pet during dog training. This is for safety reasons as a loose dog can cause accidents or if it was to become aggressive their owner has some form of control. Prevent your dog from chasing and scaring other animals, children or perhaps people with a phobia of dogs. Prevent your dog from wandering into and going to toilet in inappropriate places. Prevent running into the road injuring themselves and perhaps others if they were to cause an accident. A leash is an essential tool to use during the early days of puppy-hood to keep them safe and aid you in training. Different Types of Dog Leash Not taking into account different materials used, lengths, widths, colors and more, dog leashes can be grouped into just a few major types as described below. Nylon and leather are both tough enough to restrain an adult dog, yet lightweight enough for use with a puppy. They measure between 4 and 8 feet in length with 6 foot being the most common. This length allowing plenty of room for freedom of movement while being short enough to afford the handler complete control of their dog if necessary. They work much like a measuring tape with a nylon cord that can extend anything from about 4 to 30 feet, with a locking mechanism in a plastic handle that allows you to lock the leash at varying degrees of length. They then automatically collect up any slack in the leash when you release the mechanism, retracting the line into the handle. These dangers aside, the biggest problem I see with retractable dog leashes is they can actually train your dog to pull on the leash! When walking away, they are pulling on the leash to extend it and get rewarded for this pulling by getting to where they want to go. And as we know, anything rewarding your dog learns to repeat! So when all of a sudden when you want them on a short leash, you call them in, lock the mechanism and ask them to stay close by without pulling. How confusing is this for the dog? Most of the time if they pull on the leash, they get to go where they please. And faced with this confusion…again and again…they will go for the most rewarding option which of course is pulling! So a retractable dog leash trains them to pull because they get rewarded. They might even start expecting treats! Because only then are they a useful happy medium to use between control for you and freedom for your dog. You can see our pick of the best retractable dog leashes available by clicking here. Adjustments are usually available from between 3 and 6 feet by the addition or removal of loops, or extra clips along the length. These can allow you a shorter leash to use for training such as heel work when you want your dog very close, while giving the option for more freedom if out on a walk. You do need to keep an eye on your dog if using a metal leash. You have the one handle and a leash to your first dog, with a second leash and maybe more coming off from a coupler to allow you to attach another dog. This prevents them from climbing around and distracting you when driving. Many dogs will benefit from using a harness instead of a traditional style dog leash because it gives the owner a firmer amount of control over a dog that needs guidance. On top of that, dog harnesses are thought to be more comfortable for dogs and more easy for them to adjust to, making them a win-win for many owners. A no-pull harness is one of the most popular items for owners who have big dogs while like to pull. Harness-type leashes come in back clip harnesses and front clip harnesses. They each have their benefits, but generally speaking, back clip harnesses are better for well-trained dogs, and front clip harnesses are better for dogs who may jump or pull. For aggressive dogs, you will want to pair a harness with a head halter. This type of leash is attached to the frame of your bicycle, and it gives your dog an adjustable amount of distance from the bike that they can move. With training, this means that your dog will be able to job alongside of your while you bike without the fear of them running away. Dog Leash Materials Dog leashes are available in many different materials that each have strengths and weaknesses. So for a very reasonable price you get a good, durable leash. But with the price tag comes a little more class and style if you like that sort of thing and a very durable and long-lasting leash. Nylon leashes have the tendency to fray over time whereas treated leather dog leash can literally last a lifetime. But with this strength comes a nice little fact that they soften and change shape with age to suit the hands of the handler that uses them. This makes them far more comfortable to grip. High quality fabric and leather leashes are the ones we most highly recommend. You can see our pick of the best by clicking here. But consider the weight if using with a small puppy. Make sure the chain is as thin and as light as can be. But you will have to upgrade to heavier tougher ones as your dog grows so it will not break when they pull as a strong adult. These leads, in combination with a reflective collar, are good to use for owners that walk their dogs along country roads at night that have little in the way of wide pathways but have cars and cyclists going past but close by. Choosing The Right Width To most people the width of a leash may not seem important, but it really can be. If your dog is a chewer, or strong and a puller, the last thing you want is them to snap through the leash. And this could and does happen, especially with thinner leashes. You want to buy a leash with a good quality metal clip. And because the leash will regularly get wet, it will preferably be made of stainless steel or brass to resist corrosion and avoid weakening over time. The clip must be strong enough to withstand a good deal of force because there may come a time when you and your dog are pulling in opposite directions with all your strength. For instance when they try to bolt. The clip must never break! These are a quite reliable clip, hence their popularity, but over time the spring often weakens and the clip can start to work loose resulting in your dog being able to escape the leash. Is it for every day use? For leash training indoors or outside? Are you considering a leash to help in beginning distance command training? For outdoor training: I recommend a good 8 to 10 foot Nylon leash. Unless training distance commands for which you should get a 30 to 50 foot long line. For every day use: The best dog leash to use is a traditional, 6 foot Nylon or leather leash. Whether Nylon or leather…that choice is up to you. More Tips On Choosing A Leash paperclipNylon leashes are a good choice for the money conscious and are great for use in wet wintry conditions. This may mean having to upgrade when your puppy grows, but this is to be expected. You cannot afford to have them break free. This will help to make them last longer. Replace the leash at the first sign of any fraying, tears or the clip becoming weak. You can simply loop the handle around any pole or post and use the carabiner to attach the leash to itself. You can find that by clicking here. This has absolutely no effect on the eventual price that you pay and we are very grateful for your support. DisclaimerAll content on this site is provided for informational and entertainment purposes only. It is not intended to be nor can it be considered actionable professional advice. It must not be used as an alternative to seeking professional advice from a veterinarian or other certified professional. Please consult a professional before taking any course of action with any medical, health or behavioral related issue. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. The critical difference is the degree of dressing up required. This is a moment of personal reflection: do you have a tough time getting out of the house to take your Labrador for a walk? Minimizing the effort required to take your dog walking will ensure that you actually take him out. If your Labrador pulls on his lead, the pressure can quickly start producing irreversible damage. Can Trouble Dogs Even the most humane collars can bother some Labradors. Most new puppies might have trouble accepting a heavy collar. Starting with a light collar at an early age can offset this disadvantage. Some dog trainers can lead-train dogs with collars by building on a foundation of familiarity set by owners who get their dogs to accept light collars early on. This means both products need to be able to cater to different sizes. Most harnesses can house a range of body sizes. But when it comes to collars, your Labrador might start choking on the collar without you realizing it. Adjustable collars can offset this problem. In my opinion, even if you have compassionately trained your Labrador to accept his collar and even go on long walks with the lead attached to the said collar, what happens when your dog gets over-excited? It is quite literally impossible to hold him in position without choking him. Verdict on Dog Collars Dog collars are great to indicate ownership and protect your Labrador from being assumed and treated as a stray. Apart from that, I see no advantage in collars, especially when walking on a lead. So a nuanced approach would be to use a light collar and use a harness whenever you use a lead so that you can sidestep the dangers of lead walking a puppy with a collar. More importantly, your Labrador can pull the lead without hurting himself. More Room for Error If your Labrador puppy wears a collar, you need to follow his growth closely lest the collar begins choking him. Above all, it is more noticeable when your puppy outgrows his harness compared to when he outgrows his collar. In the worst-case scenario, you get to hold back your Lab with sheer force without hurting him as much. Tugging on a collar when your Labrador is trying his best to get away is heartless. That said, you should note that dogs give in more easily when their collar is tugged compared to holding back a harness. The ease, however, is mutually exclusive with kindness in this instance as a submission comes through the pain with a collar. In other words, a harness is something you would want on your pup only on walks. Most well-trained Labradors can go without a harness for short walks, and the harness is left for lead walks. Your Dog Will Take Time to Get Used to It This is a size-driven disadvantage that seems like a logical tradeoff when compared to the burden it offsets. I believe removing cruelty from the equation is well worth the relatively long waiting period. Starting with a light harness with a young Lab puppy is a perfect way to normalize it. Both collars and harnesses are uncomfortable initially, and in the long run, your dog can get used to both. While some trainers make arguments for collars, they are almost exclusively positioned as okay for larger dogs with stronger necks. This makes a harness your only option when out walking. Should a Labrador Wear a Harness? We have already established that harnesses are gentler than collars on Labradors. So, this may have you wondering, should Labradors wear a harness? A Labrador should wear a harness so that you can control him when he gets over-excited on a walk. A harness also allows your dog to keeps his neck safe when you have him on a tight leash. Doing the same with a collar could cause choking, damage to the trachea, or nerve damage. Harness vs. Collar For a Labrador Puppy Harness Advantages Prevents injuries to the neck Allows a lost dog to be identified from a tag Allows more control Easier to wear for tracking Allows room for growth. Conventionally, dogs wear collars. Why does your Labrador puppy need any other equipment? In this article we are going to look at why your Labrador puppy needs a harness. And how this piece of equipment differs in its use. When I first got a dog, I assumed that dog necks must be different to human necks. I figured that must be why dogs could wear collars, but the idea of having something around my own throat sounded so unbearable. In fact, dogs and humans have very similar anatomy in their necks. They have thyroid glands, lymph nodes, the trachea, the oesophagus and of course, the spinal cord — along with a host of other veins and arteries. Just the same as it would, for a human. There is some research which suggests that eye-pressure increases in dogs wearing collars, when they pull. Eye pressure does not increase in dogs wearing harnesses. You might have noticed the collar almost cutting into her throat, as she pulls into it. Perhaps your Labrador puppy stands up on her back legs, when she wants to greet another puppy — bearing her full weight on her throat. She might cough afterwards. When puppies used to wear collars to my training classes, I would often see them waiting for class, rearing on their back legs to reach other puppies. You want your Labrador puppy to calm down, perhaps to sit and greet a person, or at least stop pulling. Doing all of that, involves thought, for a dog. So, we need to put your Labrador puppy into a frame of mind where they are able to think about how to earn your rewards. A harness means that your Labrador puppy is restrained, but also able to concentrate and problem-solve. Yes and no. The permanent and most effective solution to pulling on the lead, is training — regardless of whatever device or piece of equipment you use. Loose-lead training can be an ongoing process. Some Labradors have higher energy levels than others, and these might be especially challenging and rewarding! You should not feel like a failure or give up, if you are finding it difficult. Instead, get in touch with a force-free trainer who will be able to help you. During the time you are training your Labrador puppy to walk beside you, and even once you have trained your Labrador to walk on a loose-lead most of the time, sometimes you are going to come across things which interest her. It could be some food which someone has dropped in the street. Or another dog she wants to greet. Or a cat which runs out in front of you. It is almost impossible to imagine a Labrador — even a well-trained and responsive Labrador — which is healthy and which never attempts to reach something, when on the lead! And at those times, the leash is going to go tight. And all these points, will come into play. So: Yes, the solution is training. So we need to choose a piece of equipment which is the most humane and which can help our training, under those circumstances. When pulling towards something on a collar, they can easily tow you a few steps behind them. There are safety issues, here, as they could tow you into a road. But also the few steps they managed to pull you, will reward the pulling a good deal. They got closer to what they wanted, by pulling. Pulling worked. And so they will continue trying to pull, next time they see something they want. So, we need to reduce their power so we can stop even a large, strong dog, immediately. Does a harness reduce their power in this way? Not all harnesses… Back-attaching harnesses Many years ago, I first tried a harness on one of my dogs. I found that this harness gave her much more power. If she suddenly lunged, she could tow me more with a harness than she could with a collar! With the back-attaching harness, when the lead was tight because there was something in front of her which she found interesting , her face and neck was orientated away from me and was at a distance from me. I found it difficult to get her attention, using treats or my voice, because that front part of her body was so far away and I was behind her. I saw dogs jumping up on their back legs and flailing their front legs around. So, the back-attaching harness solved all of the physical health concerns which collars had held, for me. My dog was no longer choking herself on the odd occasion she wanted to reach something. For the owners of small or toy breeds, the back-attaching harness seemed perfect. But it was not viable for me, because of the decreased control I had over large and strong dogs and the difficulties in training which this caused. But at the time there was nothing else available, so I reluctantly returned to a flat collar. Front-attaching harnesses Fast-forward many years, and I began to hear about a different sort of harness available in the US. At the time, there were only two brands of front-attaching harness available. Now there are many different brands, and I hope to review them for you in another article. The front-attaching harness solved all the control and feeling-in-connection problems experienced with the back-attaching harnesses. I began to recommend these harnesses to clients attending my training classes. I stopped seeing dogs choking themselves, and my clients had much more control than with a collar. Front and Back Attaching Harness There are now some great harnesses available with attachments at both the front and back. You can take a look at our favourites in this article. Contact The Best Leashes for your Labrador One of the most important accessories you can have as a dog owner is a leash and collar. In most areas, they are required in public, and even at home, to ensure that your dog is well behaved. Here are some tips on finding the best leash and collar for your Labrador: Simple Leash and Collar A simple leash and collar, also known as a flat collar, will do just fine for dogs that are extremely well behaved, or even tempered. I also find that older dogs that are slower moving do well with the simple leashes and collars. You can tell if a simple leash and collar are the best choice by how your dog behaves in public. If he or she stays beside you the whole time without trying to get ahead, it means they know their place in the pack and they are a good candidate for these types of collars. Here are some good options to consider. You can also find a wide selection at your nearest pet supply store. Look for a collar that is adjustable and will grow with your dog. We recommend the flat collar over all others. Harness Veterinarians usually recommend a harness type of collar for those dogs who tend to be higher energy and require more effort when on the leash. The harness wraps around their bodies so not to choke them or crush their necks. These types of harnesses are ideal for younger dogs that are just being trained or are giving trouble with obedience. Some great options can be found here. Choke Collar The choke collar should be used as a last resort for very poorly behaved dogs. This collar actually works to keep the dog submissive towards his or her owner. There are some choke collars that are built with more safety features and you should do your research carefully to decide which one is best. This choke collar has some of those safety features built in, like rounded edges and dual rings.

Having a thick and broad body build, these bulldogs look formidably powerful. In fact, physical similarities between this breed and their cousins, the English bulldogs , are evident. However, this breed is more than how they look. These notorious slobberers might be the perfect fit in your family picture. Old tyme bulldogs as first pets Old tyme puppies may cost more upon purchase as well as the actual ownership. On the other hand, this is the best choice for first-time owners ready to dedicate their time for puppy training and other necessary ones. Old tyme bulldogs are good pets for families that will not leave them for long periods of time. They are best suited to households where one person can accompany him whilst the rest is out. When left alone for a long time , this breed often suffers from separation anxiety , which may lead to destructive behaviours. Moreover, they are low-maintenance when it comes to grooming. Old tyme bulldogs have short coats close to the skin. It only requires a weekly brushing to keep their coats glossy and clean. Knowing that this bulldog enjoys being groomed is another good point for keeping this pooch. The health of an old tyme bulldog is evident on his skin and coat. It is important to regularly check its folds or wrinkles, especially on its head and muzzles, to prevent skin problems or dirt build-up. Old tyme bulldogs and children Despite having a bad reputation under the belief of being an aggressive breed, the old tyme bulldog loves being in a home where there are children. Such rumours are due to the initial objective of bulldog breeding, which is to bait bulls. Bulldogs, in general, have a notable relationship with children and other pets. However, considering their large size, this breed is not the best choice for families with babies or very young children. They could be clumsy with their heavy built and easily knock over a young child. Further, an old tyme bulldog and very young children should not be left together unsupervised. It is very important to teach children how to properly behave in the presence of dogs, most especially during mealtime and playtime. Training is the vital key to strengthen the bond between dogs and its family. Old tyme bulldogs and other pets A well-disciplined and well-socialised bulldog fairs well with other dogs and pets. This is particularly true when the said pooch is reared together with a family cat. The old tyme bulldog has a calm temperament. That being said, they are not known to have a very high prey drive, unlike other breeds. However, it is still likely to chase down other cats, although not as fast as any other dogs. Old tyme bulldogs move at their own pace, which is quite slow but powerful. As they mature, they are still quite boisterous and enjoy a good interactive game or more with people they considered as family. It is very important to be extra cautious when handling an old tyme bulldog during a hot weather. Remember that this pooch is prone to overheating, which may lead to a life-threatening condition. Old tyme bulldogs as watchdogs Old tyme bulldogs, like other bulldogs, have a strong sense of protectiveness. Bulldogs are known to be loyal to every member in their pack, which includes children. It is quick to bark and notify owners as soon as it senses anything strange or the presence of strangers. This breed is not known as an excessive barker ; it only barks when it finds a concrete reason to do so. However, they are not the best choice to be kept as watchdogs due to their calm and easy-going character. An adult old tyme bulldog should be fed accordingly: Physically active: 1, calories every day Typical adults: 1, calories every day Senior and less active: 1, calories every day It is best to keep your bulldog happy with the right amount of exercise to burn off any excess of calories. Having a well-balanced bulldog is less likely to suffer from obesity, a condition that should not be taken lightly as it can lead to other health complications. Please leave this field empty. Ohld ing-glish Bool-dawg Description The Olde English Bulldogge is a muscular, medium sized dog of great strength, stability and athleticism. He is well balanced and proportioned, with no features exaggerated or standing out. He has the appearance of a dog capable of doing his original job, bull baiting. The OEB head is prominent and dramatic. The cheeks are large, well developed and display powerful jaw muscles. A slightly wrinkled forehead is acceptable. There is a crease from the stop to the occiput. It has a narrow skull and domed forehead. The muzzle is square, wide and deep, with definite layback. Distance from the tip of the nose to the stop does not exceed one-third of the distance from the tip of the nose to the occiput. Height of the muzzle from the bottom of the chin to the top of the muzzle is equal to or greater than the length of the muzzle, thus producing the deep, square muzzle. There is slight to moderate wrinkle on the muzzle. Flews are semi-pendulous. The bite is undershot and horizontally straight. Lower jawbone is moderately curved from front to back. Eyes are round to almond-shape and medium sized. They are set wide apart, with the outside corner of the eye intersecting with the outside line of the skull and are set low, at the level of the muzzle, where the stop and muzzle intersect. Eye color is brown, with black pigmented eye rims. Canine teeth are large. Broken, chipped or extracted teeth are acceptable. There are 6 corn row teeth between canines. Nostrils are wide with a line running vertically between nostrils from the tip of nose down to the bottom of the upper lip. Nose is large and broad in relationship to the width of the muzzle. Nose color is black. Ears are rose, button or tulip, with rose preferred. They are set high and to the rear of the skull. The ears are positioned as wide as possible on the outside of the skull. They are small to medium in size. Neck is medium length, wide, and slightly arched. It is a little smaller than the head where the two meet, and gets wider from that point to the shoulders. It is slightly loose from jaw to chest, forming a double dewlap. They are broad, heavily muscled and have a separation between shoulder blades. The scapula shoulder blade should be at an approximate degree angle to vertical and form an angle approximately degrees to the humerus forearm. Scapula and humerus should be roughly equal in length. A vertical line drawn from the point of the scapula top to the ground will pass directly through the elbow. The elbows are not turned in or out. The legs are set wide apart, coming straight down from the shoulders. They are straight vertically on inside of legs and well-muscled, giving a bowed appearance of front quarters. The forelegs have medium bone and are in proportion to the body. The pasterns are medium in length. They are straight, strong, flexible and nearly perpendicular to the ground. Body is sturdy and powerful. The length from tip of breastbone to rear thigh is slightly longer than the height from ground to withers. The back is wide and muscular, showing power. Topline has a slight roach or wheel back. There is a fall in the back, to its low spot behind the shoulders. From this point the spine rises to the loin. The high point of the loin is a little bit higher than the shoulders then there is a gentle curve, forming an arch, down to the tail. Loin back of ribcage to hips is muscular, medium in length and slightly arched. The chest is wide and deep with a muscular brisket. Ribs are well sprung and rounded, being at their fullest directly behind the shoulders. Shoulders to forelegs are well muscled. Hips and thighs are strong and muscular. Hind legs are well muscled and slightly longer than the forelegs. In a natural stance they are straight, parallel and set apart when viewed from the rear. Distance between hind legs is less than distance between front legs. Angulation is moderate. Stifles have a gentle convex curve when viewed from the side. Stifle angle roughly matches the angle of the pelvis. Hocks are perpendicular to the ground when viewed from the side and back. They are parallel to each other when viewed from the back. A line drawn from the rear-most part of the buttocks, perpendicular to the ground, should fall to the front of the toes. They are straight when viewed from the front. Rear feet are smaller than front feet. Tail should be set low and tapering from base to end. It can be pump handle or straight, with pump handle being preferred. Tail should reach the hocks or be slightly shorter and carried down or horizontal. Some breeders choose to dock the tail. Coat is short, close and of medium density. It should be shiny, showing good health. Color can be brindle of red, gray, fawn or black; either solid or pied with white. Solid white, fawn, red or black; solid color or pied. Temperament Olde English Bulldogges are docile, but capable and protective, fearless and athletic, fierce-looking, determined and courageous, bold and friendly around their family and friends, but fearless adversaries to anyone who threatens their masters or property. This breed likes to chew and should be supplied with plenty of toys and bones. Nylabones and rubber Kong toys are highly recommended. Rawhides, soft rubber and stuffed toys are unsafe, for they are easily shredded or swallowed whole. Olde English Bulldogges are so eager to please that they may overexert themselves in an effort to do whatever is asked of them. An owner who displays a natural authority toward the dog, socialization and obedience training are important. It is best to channel high energy individuals to some type of work and exercise. The objective in training this dog is to achieve pack leader status. It is a natural instinct for a dog to have an order in its pack. When we humans live with dogs , we become their pack. The entire pack cooperates under a single leader. Lines are clearly defined and rules are set. Because a dog communicates his displeasure with growling and eventually biting, all other humans MUST be higher up in the order than the dog. The humans must be the ones making the decisions, not the dogs. That is the only way your relationship with your dog can be a complete success. This breed tends to drool and slobber. Height, Weight Height: Males 17 - 20 inches 43 - 51 cm Females 16 - 19 inches 40 - 48 kg Weight: Males 60 - 80 pounds 27 - 36 kg Females 50 - 70 pounds 22 - 31 kg Health Problems May be susceptible to bloat —a painful and often fatal condition that can be brought on by too large a quantity of food consumed at one time. As with all large breeds, hip dysplasia sometimes occurs. Breeders are working hard to keep it out of the Olde English Bulldogge; therefore, no dog with bad hips is bred. Living Conditions Olde English Bulldogges will adapt to almost any lifestyle. They should be protected from the extreme cold and heat, although they are not as susceptible as the AKC Bulldog. Exercise This breed needs to be taken on a daily pack walk to satisfy its migration instinct. When properly conditioned they can be active dogs, however, they are equally happy with moderate exercise. They can stay in relatively good shape with good muscle tone with only light exercise. These dogs are naturally slow, and because of their unique structure, they should not be encouraged to jump or engage in strenuous exercise as young pups. This breed is an average shedder. In he became disenchanted with English Bulldogs due to their breeding and breathing problems. David's goal was to produce a dog with the looks of the 18th century bulldog, with the temperament of today's English Bulldogs, yet healthy, without breathing problems, or all the other aliments today's English Bulldogs are prone to. This new breed can now breathe. Cesarean section births are not necessary. Artificial insemination, due to male ineptness and lack of drive, has been replaced by natural ties. Lifespan is over eleven years. All breeding stock has had hip x-rays. No dog with bad hips is bred. David says he is now achieving his goal of producing a Bulldog with the health and temperament to be able to serve people, instead of forcing people to serve him. David Leavitt is breeding them to more of a working lines type dog, while OEBKC is breeding the dogs as more of a family oriented dog. His strong, hard athletic physique is still close-coupled and compact enough to promote the traditional bulldog looks that are common with regards to his breeding, making him stocky, athletic and imposing. The shoulders are muscular and slightly sloping, fore legs are straight, well boned and set well apart, elbows turned neither in or out, feet broad strong, toes tight, nails curved and strong, pads thick and tough. The hindquarters are broad and muscular, with well-developed second thigh denoting power, but not cumbersome, moderate angulations at hocks; cow hocks and splay feet are serious faults. His gait is powerful, heavy, with good drive from the hindquarters. A straight or pump handle tail is preferred and most desired, but crank and corkscrew are accepted. The Dorset Olde Tyme Bulldogge has a large, strong head; the upper region of the head is slightly convex from one side to the other, the forehead dominates the face, however it is still wider than high, the head is furrowed, with loose thick and wrinkled skin about the throat and side of head, cheeks: prominent, due to the strong development of the muscles, broad muzzle: with obvious folds, broad and deep, keeping its length in comparison with that of the entire head. The nose is broad, with well open nostrils; lack of fore face with nostrils set on top of muzzle is a reversion back to the kennel club bulldog and is very undesirable. Care is taken to keep the traditional strong bulldogge head, allowing short strong enough muzzle to not hinder breathing while still keeping the solid close-coupled broad set bulldog looks. The body is compact. The chest is wide and deep with ribs well sprung and well set down between the fore legs. The back is short, giving the impression of a well-balanced dog. The neck is slightly arched, of moderate length, very muscular and almost equal to the circumference to the skull. The topline is solid with a broad and muscular back, withers well marked, broad loin, rather short and solid. The ears are set high and wide, rose preferred, button is accepted. The coat is of fine texture, smooth flat, short coat desired, similar to the glossy sheen of the Stafford, double or oily coat un-desired. Any color acceptable, Dorsets are bred in variations of brindle, variations of pied, also black and slate gray-blue; the slate gray blue's known as Dorset Blue poole's, as a respect and tribute to the original blue Paul pol of Scotland, and the area of Poole in Dorset. This breeding is still at the early stages of Steve's breeding program, and have only just after a few years started to reproduce type in color. Temperament The Dorset Olde Tyme Bulldogge is a very good all-around family member, loyal among the children and keen to please and be part of the family circle, not homed as a guardian, but determined protector nonetheless. Keen to lie at your feet or walk at your side, a good companion very attached to his master and very affectionate; longs for leadership and to be loved. They are usually good with non-k-9 pets, especially when raised with them from puppyhood and they usually get along well with other dogs; socialize well. Height, Weight Height: 19 - 21 inches 48 - 54 cm Weight: 60 - 90 pounds 27 - 41 kg Preferring a strong, stocky muscled physique—height and weight should be in keeping with a symmetrical, well-proportioned body, keeping the appearance of strong traditional bulldogge looks. If they are kept outdoors they will need the benefit of a good, dry draft-free kennel. They will do fine in an apartment. Exercise This Bulldogge can handle any amount of exercise. They are keen to lie at your feet or walk at your side, but like all dogs, need to be taken on a daily walk to fulfill their primal canine instinct to walk. Life Expectancy Some dogs have been known to live up to 14 years Litter Size Varies greatly, 3 to 12 puppies Grooming Coat care can consist of a daily wipe over with a cloth or soft brush; care should be taken to make sure all wrinkles around the muzzle are free from any dirt or staining. Origin With a breeding program known to go back to the late s, Steve Barnett set out to re-create his ideal bulldogge of old, utilizing his earlier experiences of the various bulldog crosses he was involved in breeding, some of which went into the foundation stock of the late Victorian Bulldog breeder Mr. K Mollett, who originally set out to produce a fitter kennel club bulldog. Steve Barnett's goal in his own words has been "always to produce a national bulldogge, a dog which is brought out into the show or ring with pride, to stand beside your dog knowing that he is an athlete, capable of non-stop energy, worthy of the name gladiator, a true bulldog both in appearance and traditional bulldog temperament. Not a nuisance around animals and other dogs, but with an inbred fire if needed, or called upon, a dog that would grace the arena of any show in any country any were in the world, and be gazed upon with true spirit and real national pride, not shown amongst the fruit and veg in a wheel barrow like the kc dogs of today. During the Tudor period both these bloody sports were at a height of national pastimes, the normal person, although poverty stricken and hungry, seemed to always find the odd half penny to attend the various bear pits that lined the south side of the Thames as early as , mentioned by Shakespeare and other known writers in their day. Henry the VIII had a real strong liking and interest in the early bear pits and bull baiting, appointing the first official master of the game, documented in history Queen Elizabeth had a fascination for the sport of bull and bear baiting. She once visited Kenilworth Castle in , then owned by the Earl of Leicester, here 13 bears were assembled for her amusement, although this was the height of the bull and bear baiting period in old England. A bill to end bull-baiting was defeated as late in history as by forty-five votes, only to be abolished 6 years further on in .A royal sport that has been documented throughout history for close to years, these early dogs were the backbone to the now out-of-shape bulldog of today, the kind that won the hearts and minds of the early writers of the day, that stamped the seal, that brought national pride to the words English bulldogge, our goal has been to re-produce this early broad-muzzled, flat-faced dog of old, but to still keep the traditional shape and character we have all come to love. Pictures are taken of each litter of pups at 4 and 6 weeks of age. We do not honor any other photo requests for pups that are sold and waiting for their release day. Delilah is bred to Oscar pups due October 10th. Accepting pick of litter deposits. Finding Your Perfect Olde English Bulldogge Puppy As the premier breeder of Olde English Bulldogges in the Southeast, we love providing families and individuals of all ages with healthy, happy puppies from this amazing breed. Our puppies turn into healthy, well-tempered and athletic dogs that will make a loving addition to your home — whether you have young children, lead an active lifestyle, or want a couch companion. They can keep up with an active lifestyle of jogging, hiking and camping or a more relaxed one sitting at home and watching TV. Our bulldogges have gone on to live with people from all walks of life, including single adults, couples, families with children, active retirees, and the elderly. Loving They become very attached and love spending time with their families, including young children. Athletic Compared to other bulldog breeds, Olde English Bulldogges are athletic dogs with strength and stamina. They love getting outdoors, playing, jogging, and being part of the fun. Trainable Olde English Bulldogges are eager to please and responsive to commands. Healthy Our bulldogges have fewer of the genetic issues that commonly impact bulldogs, such as airway issues, breeding difficulties and climate sensitivity. As a result, our puppies are healthy, well-adjusted, IOEBA registered, and have a documented blood line with five-generation pedigrees. With the scientific expertise of our owner, we provide dogs with common, rare and tri-color combinations. In addition to our high breeding standards, we pride ourselves on having superior customer service. We love our little Stella. She is so playful and sweet. Was super easy to potty train. Thank you Robyn for all you do! Lee W Davenport, Iowa. White, fawn, red, or black Suitable for: Families with both small and large kids, single pet homes, and multi-pet homes Temperament: Loyal, trustworthy, calm, brave, and protective The Dorset Olde Tyme Bulldogge offers a rare combination of calmness and protectiveness, paired with the ability to hang out with small and large children alike. But what else do you need to know about these dogs to care for them? We break it all down for you here. Dogs that are harder to train will require a bit more patience and practice. Proper exercise, nutrition, and hygiene also play an important role in the lifespan of your pet. More social dogs have a tendency to run up to strangers for pets and scratches, while less social dogs shy away and are more cautious, even potentially aggressive. But where these dogs really shine is with sociability. Finally, while these dogs have a comparatively short lifespan, they have fewer health concerns than other Bulldogs. This loving and calm temperament makes them a great family dog, no matter the age of your kids. If your life consists of driving one kid to practice every day throughout the week, you better be able to bring your Dorset Olde Tyme Bulldogge along for the ride. As long as you socialize your Dorset Olde Tyme Bulldogge early, they get along great with other pets. With socialization early and often, the Dorset Olde Tyme Bulldogge does great with almost any other pet. At a minimum, you need to take your pup out for one walk a day to keep them healthy and happy. The length of this walk can vary, but we recommend at least 30 minutes a day. These pups are extremely smart, allowing them to learn a wide array of tricks, but they are also incredibly stubborn. This takes a ton of time and patience, and it can easily frustrate an impatient owner. Still, you should use a soft brush on them every day to help remove any excess hair and keep their skin healthy. Furthermore, you need to brush their teeth several times a week to maintain proper oral hygiene. Use a top-notch doggy toothpaste to clean their teeth, and it can save you a bundle at the dentist in the future. Here, Below we highlighted a few of the most common genetic problems that you need to keep an eye out for. Minor Conditions.

Top Picks For Our Dogs Preparing Your Home For A Puppy You should treat the preparation of your home for the arrival of a new puppy in much the same way as you would for the arrival of a baby because the process is almost identical. You must be ready to provide every little thing your puppy needs in life, making sure they have water, are fed, comfortable, happy, catered for and safe. To achieve this there are 4 main things that you need to do: Go shopping for equipment and supplies Puppy proof your home and garden to make sure your puppy stays safe Set up an area for your puppy to sleep and spend time in when you cannot supervise them Decide on the rules and routines required to successfully raise a puppy Without such preparation, things will be difficult. A Nutritious Puppy Food The most important supply needed for a new puppy is a highly nutritious puppy food. Hopefully your puppy came from a responsible breeder who was feeding them a high quality, complete and nutritious food. If so, you should ask what they were feeding, stock up on and continue feeding this if possible. If not, then puppies are incredibly active, growing fast and developing bone, muscle and more every day. Because of this they need almost double the calories, more protein and have different nutritional needs to mature adult dogs. Furthermore, they have far smaller mouths than adult dogs so puppy food comes in smaller chunks more suited to their size. Click here to see our recommendations for the best puppy food for labs Bowls for Food And Water There is a bewildering array of dog bowl choices out there so choosing the best can be difficult. Looks and design aside, I recommend going for stainless steel bowls because they are long-lasting, cannot be chewed and are very easy to clean. I also recommend buying bowls with heavy rubber bottoms so they stay rooted to the spot and are harder to spill or flip over. Unless of course you buy bowls in a stand, then these problems are already solved. A Puppy Crate And Bedding A good crate is one of the most beneficial things you can provide for the good of yourself and your puppy. First of all, supply some bedding to place inside for your puppy to sleep on. My recommendation for this is VetBed. Many puppies can chew and ingest normal bedding which can result in medical emergencies and VetBed is the most durable bedding on the market. During these times you need to provide a larger, but still safe enclosure to confine your puppy. You might also like to buy a plastic sheet and some puppy pads or use lots of old newspaper for them to use as a potty in your absence. Puppy Chew Toys Puppies chew. A lot. And they seem to prefer chewing phones, footwear and TV remotes more than anything else. Just make sure whatever toys you do buy are suitable for a puppy as many will be too large for their little mouths to begin with. Interactive Puppy Toys So you can play games with your puppy, provide exercise and mental stimulation, you will want to buy a few toys that encourage the two of you to interact. Balls for throwing and chasing, soft toys and ropes for playing tug, other toys for fetch, there are many available. You will also need a collar to provide a place to attach an all important ID tag. ID Tag An ID tag is an essential means to be reunited with your puppy should the worst happen and you somehow lose them or they run away. Clicker A clicker is an extremely useful tool used during training as a reward marker that dramatically improves the timing of communication between you and your puppy when you want to reward a behavior. Although not essential, I do highly recommend you use one. Puppy Training Treats Tasty food treats are the go-to reward used during training so you will want to make sure you always have a good stock at hand. They need to feel happy with being bathed, happy having their coat and teeth brushed, their feet touched, nails clipped and having their eyes and ears inspected. To do so, you should fake going the process, getting them used to being handled, the sight and feel of the tools and so on. To achieve this, you will need to buy and get them used to the following items: Dog shampoo Combs and brushes suitable for a Labrador Scissors Cotton balls Toothbrush Use these tools right away and often, and give your puppy praise and tasty treats as you go so they form positive associations with grooming. Puppy Proof Your Home and Garden The process of puppy proofing your home is very much like baby proofing before the arrival of a child. Except a puppy is far more curious, active and destructive and can get themselves into far more trouble. A puppy is a new-born. Everything is a toy and they will run and pounce and jump and chew on anything in their environment. So before you bring your puppy home you simply must make it safe for them. For things you cannot move skirting boards, table legs etc. To keep them safe while still providing an area for them to play in and stretch their legs, you want to restrict their access to a single room, or otherwise create an enclosed space for them. To do so, either buy a pet barrier or baby gate that goes across a doorway to restrict them to an easy to clean and safe room, or buy an exercise pen puppy pen to create an enclosed space in another room. I also strongly recommend buying a crate for many reasons, but initially, mostly just to provide the perfect place for them to sleep. I shall discuss crate training a little later in this article. All of this must be decided BEFORE you get your puppy home because consistency is a key part of raising a puppy successfully. Everyone must enforce and live by the same rules for your puppy to thrive. Initially they have no idea how you want them to behave, or how and when they can expect the things they want and need in life. The more consistent everybody is with the puppy, the quicker they will learn all this stuff and the happier everyone will be. So decide and write down if necessary when your puppy will have all their needs met, make sure everybody knows who is responsible for each task and make sure everybody knows the rules. You might think the collection and journey home with your new puppy is no big deal, but there are many things can go wrong. Therefore, you should never take a puppy before 8 weeks old. During the first 8 weeks, a puppy learns a lot from their mother and litter-mates: Bite inhibition, canine body language, acceptable play and interaction with other dogs and how to accept discipline. Things you will find it very hard to teach them later yourself. The flip side of this is that the 7 to 14 week stage is the most impressionable for a puppy, where they bond strongest with people and must be socialized to all the sights, sounds and smells of the world so they grow up confident and comfortable with their surroundings. So anyway, for the journey home there a few things you need to consider: Safety in the car, the need for water and toilet breaks and the possibility your puppy will be sick. Having a loose puppy in the car presents a very real danger of leading to a crash, they can easily climb out of a box and now is not the time to use a harness and car safety belt. If the crate is small enough you can place it on a front or rear passenger seat and secure it with the seat-belt, or you may have to place it in the trunk of your car. Fully line the crate with absorbent paper in case there are any accidents, this will keep most of the mess off your puppy and make cleaning easier. And finally, place a chew toy or two in the crate to keep your puppy occupied. If you have another person to help you, your puppy can ride home in their lap if the journey is short. They must be under your passengers control. They will also need to potty every half or so. Therefore, you should plan breaks along the way every 30 minutes or so. Stop the car, allow them to drink, then wait for them to wee before setting off again. When you stop, make sure your puppy is on leash and tightly held by someone before letting them out of the car. And as an extra precaution, carry your puppy and only put them down to do their business, then carry them back into the car. Take with you some towels, plastic bags, kitchen roll and deodorizer to take care of any accidents. And when driving, take all corners slowly, and accelerate and brake gently. If your puppy is on a passengers lap, they will be able to see some warning signs that puppy is about to be sick: Their lips will curl, they will excessively salivate and then eventually start to heave. When your passenger spots these signs, they can place a thick towel beneath the puppy to catch everything and avoid a mess in your vehicle. When bringing home a new puppy, make sure you collect them and then drive straight home. Your puppy is having the most stressful day of their short life so far, try not to make it harder than it already is by taking them to strange places and passing them around to strangers to say hello. You want to get them home quickly so they can start the process of settling in as soon as possible. Whether this is inside on paper, or a spot outside, as soon as you arrive home carry them there, set them down and wait for them to do their business before doing anything else. This might take 30 seconds or it might take 10 minutes, but patiently wait and when they go, praise them profusely. Well done! Shut them in another room away from the puppy as things are intense enough as it is. Explain they have to be calm and gentle during the first introductions. Let them sniff and look around, getting used to the area and their new little world. You can now let people come and say hello. Have people sit or kneel to greet them. Once everybody has said hello, you should stay with your puppy, show interest but stay calm. Allow Your Puppy To Sleep After all the excitement, stress, massive change and huge amount of mental stimulation your puppy has just been through, they will likely need to sleep soon after arriving at your home. So as soon as they either start to look tired, or the introductions to their new living space and family have ended whichever comes first put them to bed for a short while. On the other hand they might feel completely overwhelmed, retreat into themselves and show reluctance to explore. They might slink into a corner silently and sit there watching their new world with wonder but apprehension, before falling asleep for hours. And when it comes to the first night they might sleep right through, or they might cry and whine the whole night. As your puppy begins to get used to everything, their character will start to shine through and you will begin to see their true personalities. Exactly what this will be is different for every puppy…it will be fun for you to find out! And by being the provider of everything they need in life, giving them all that is good, it will only take 2 or 3 days for your puppy to learn to love you and get excited and happy to see you when you turn up. So your task is to set up and stick to these schedules, begin training your puppy and help them to learn how you want them to behave and when they can expect the things they need in life. What should you feed your puppy You should feed your puppy the same food they had at the breeders because an abrupt change in diet almost always leads to stomach upset. Complete and balanced means it has everything a puppy needs, and in the right quantities. So seek out this kind of wording and check the internet for other owners reviews. Puppies need to eat a lot because their rate of growth is very high. For puppies up to 12 weeks, you should divide their daily requirement into 4 portions, for puppies 12 to 26 weeks, feed them 3 times per day and from 26 weeks on feed them twice per day. You should also aim to feed them as close as you can to the same times every day and evenly spaced throughout the day. This will help their body clocks fall into a pattern and will help your house training immensely because they then potty the same times every day. For example: 8 to 12 weeks old, 4 times a day at AM, AM, PM and PM 12 to 26 weeks old, 3 times a day at AM, PM and PM 26 weeks old and ongoing, 2 times a day at and Obviously you can adjust these times to take into account when you get out of bed and to fit around your life. Also… The first few nights have the crate or exercise pen your puppy sleeps in placed in your bedroom. One night move the crate next to the bedroom door. The next night move it outside the door, but leave the door open so they can still see you. The next night further into the hallway. Finally to their eventual resting place. They might take to sleeping on their own OK, they might whine and cry. NEVER go to them to comfort them if they cry, you must only get up to take them to potty and then silently and without fuss put them back into the crate. Rewarding silence and ignoring noise is the only way they will eventually learn to be quiet at night themselves. Any time you cannot closely supervise them, you have to confine them, either in their crate, an exercise pen or a puppy proofed room secured with a barrier across the doorway. The point of confining them as a puppy is so they can enjoy all the freedom in the world once they are an adult. By confining them with treat dispensing chew toys they get rewarded for chewing the right things and develop a chew toy obsession. Confine them now, they form a good chew toy obsession and have no chance of developing bad chewing habits. Then once they are over their adolescent chewing stage you slowly open up the house to them and eventually they can have free roam and be completely trusted. A little sacrifice when young for a better life later. And a second hugely important reason for confining your puppy when you cannot supervise them is for speedier house training. In fact if you read my comments from earlier, you will see you start the very first moment you finish the journey home. In essence, house training is about creating good habits while avoiding bad ones and for the speediest success you want to start immediately. Wherever your puppy is able to potty has the chance of becoming their favored toilet spot for many weeks or months to come. So you want to prevent them pottying inside, and encourage them to potty outside. The main ingredients of a successful house training program are preventing mistakes and praising heavily for doing the right thing. Achieving this is all about schedules, supervision and confinement. Now, your puppy will need to potty anywhere from every 15 to 45 minutes. So to start with, take them outside every 30 minutes and adjust this schedule to suit their natural rhythm. You must also take them outside immediately after they wake up from any sleep, after any eating or drinking, after play and after any heightened excitement. These are times that often lead to a puppy needing to potty so take them outside at these times and you will avoid many mistakes while taking advantage of predictable opportunities to praise them for doing the right thing. In the first week or so, you will likely find your puppy almost instantaneously leaks with little warning. Simply do your best to take them out to potty extremely often so they go in the right place as often as possible. And confine them to a single enclosed room or in an exercise pen for the first week or so to protect your carpets. Crate training goes hand in hand with house training, being one of the best tools to help speed up the process. Therefore, you want to start crate training very early on, after just a few days of getting puppy home, and I personally aim for 9 weeks old to start. I prefer to wait a week or so to avoid them pottying in the crate as much as possible, doing the most I can to preserve their instinct not to soil where they sleep, the instinct that helps most when using a crate for house training. But by all means sleep them in their crate at night if you wish and I do. For more information on crate training your puppy and using it for house training purposes, please see the links below:. Rachael Ray Nutrish is another brand I love for Labrador Retriever puppies as it is packed with DHA for healthy brain and eye development and specially formulated for young, growing dogs. You can also select different sizes and recipes. My favorite is chicken and brown rice. Bedding And Toys Lab puppies need quality bedding and toys for teething. Labrador puppies grow quickly and have sharp claws and teeth. Puppies also go through a teething phase and will need special teething toys to help soothe their sore mouths and help keep your furniture safe. As far as bedding, the best bedding for a Labrador puppy is going to be made of high quality material that is soft and plush while also being sturdy enough to keep them off the floor and support their growing bodies. KONG toys are wonderful tools to use during crate training , but they also help with separation anxiety , boredom, and the teething stage that all puppies go through. Enter the Nylabone Puppy Starter Pack. These flavored chew toys come both textured and regular to help get your pup and your furniture through the teething stage safely. Cuddly toys like the Smart PetLove Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Aid Toy above can help your new Labrador puppy adjust to sleeping on his own, assist in crate training, and may even help alleviate anxieties including noise phobias and separation anxiety. Puppy blankets are a must and can be used for multiple purposes in your home for your pup. My favorite puppy blankets are blankets that are specially made for dogs, like the Luciphia fleece blankets above. While you can use any blankets on hand, blankets that are specially made for dogs are usually a bit more durable, easier to wash, and have been made with quality and safe material for your pooch. Puppy blankets just make it easy to always a comfy place for your puppy to rest his head no matter where you are. Ultra Squeaker Ball is an absolute favorite in my house and with my clients. I especially love using this toy for puppies who are just getting the hang of playing fetch. For puppies, picking up on how to play fetch can be tough. Balls that squeak or make noise when thrown help to make the game more exciting and help encourage young pups to chase whatever is making that high pitched sound! Leashes, Harnesses, and Collars Collars, leashes, and harnesses are important tools to help socialize your puppy. Getting your puppy used to wearing a leash, harness, and collar is an important step towards socializing them. So even though your Labrador puppy will outgrow his harness and collar quickly, I still suggest investing in these items. Here are five of my favorite leash, harness, and collar products for Labrador Retriever puppies. As I mentioned above, puppies are especially fragile so steer clear of attaching a leash to their collar and try to help them adjust to wearing a harness that is comfortable. What I like about this harness is that it is adjustable so you can use it a bit longer as your puppy grows. Best of all it is the perfect length five feet for puppy training and is a leash your Lab puppy can take with him into adulthood. It is built like a standard leash, but it offers you control over how far away your puppy can get. This is excellent for puppy parents who live in busy neighborhoods or who are working with a puppy who likes to wander. Large breed puppies like Labrador Retrievers require crates that grow with them. This is why I love crates that come with dividers so that they can grow with your Lab puppy. I also recommend playpens, as Labrador puppies are notorious for being very active and energetic. Lab puppies are also incredibly curious and tend to chew a lot in their first few months, which is why indoor dog gates will also be an important part of puppy proofing your home. Take a look at some of my favorite puppy-proofing products below. Nobody likes cleaning up potty accidents. Of course, no one wants a big, bulky pen that takes up half of their home either! I also love that the pen is big enough for puppies to grow into and allows them to learn how to explore a space larger than their crate while keeping them and your home safe from their curiosity. And since crate training is such an important part of puppyhood and actually helps your puppy adjust to being alone and feeling secure, we recommend investing in a good, high quality crate you can use for years. It has two separate doors for entrance and exit and it comes with a divider so it can be adjusted to the size of your dog as he grows. Just remember to leave your pup inside his crate with a KONG and some bedding so he is comfortable, and remember that puppies who are younger than six months old should not stay in their crates for longer than four hours. For those of you who plan to leave your puppy out and about while you are gone and after he is trained, of course , then a crate that folds may be your best bet. The MidWest Foldable Dog Crate posted above is one such crate that is not only made well, but also stores well. Like most crates ideal for Labrador puppies, this crate also comes with a divider so it can grow with your dog. Along with crates and puppy playpens, you also might consider getting a gate to keep your puppy from entering places in your home that may pose a risk to him. Many of my clients keep gates up in their kitchen entryway, or gate their living rooms where puppies are tempted to chew on wood furniture. Richell Wood Freestanding Pet Gate Sale Buy on Amazon For those of you worried about installing something or accidentally damaging walls or paint, there are always free-standing gate options, like the Richell Wood Freestanding Pet Gate. I do like the way these gates look and the simplicity of them, however, they are not always the most secure and may not stand up to a strong and curious puppy. These gates are also not ideal for leaving puppies unsupervised as they can sometimes find ways to knock them down. Grooming your Labrador puppy early on not only helps to socialize him and prepare him for a life of vet visits, groomer visits, and physical contact with people, but it also helps to keep him clean and healthy. Like babies, puppies are more sensitive to certain products and require products that are specifically designed to be gentle on their sensitive skin and fur. Be selective of the shampoos, dog brushes , and other grooming products you pick for your Labrador puppy and make sure you always use high-quality products. Some of the products I recommend most for grooming a Labrador puppy are listed below. Pet Care Sciences Puppy Shampoo. Vet bedding fleece on a roll is ideal puppy bedding. You can line both his bed and his car crate with this. Buy several pieces so that you can pop one in the washing machine when it gets dirty or if he has an accident. There are lots of lovely beds you can get to go around the house, but in those first days veterinary bedding is an essential alternative to keep his crate cosy and clean. Puppy Toys For Labradors Puppy toys need to be sturdy. Many puppies destroy soft toys quite quickly though they are so adorable, you may not be able to resist buying one or two. Kongs and rope toys are very tough and seem to survive the onslaught of puppy teeth. A Radio If you intend your puppy to sleep alone in the kitchen from the first night, you may find it helpful to leave a radio next to his crate. Just a simple, cheap Portable Radio with the volume turned down low can serve the same role as some human company. It just helps him feel less along during those first few nights when he may be feeling very homesick. Puppy Harness There is no rush for this, but once your puppy is too heavy to carry, and going out and about on the ground, he needs some kind of safety restraint. These days I usually recommend a harness as they avoid pulling on the puppies neck. The kind where the lead attaches at the front and on the back are ideal. You can find an expert review of the big brands of harnesses, from a professional trainer here. When he is older and has learned to walk next to you, you can buy him a collar. To let your puppy know when he has done something you like. It is a really useful tool to help you teach your puppy to be quiet, and to learn simple skills. It will make training your puppy much quicker, easier and a lot more fun. Getting a recall to whistle established at an early age gets your puppy training off to a great start. I recommend the Acme Dog Whistle. There is plenty of information on the use and choice of dog whistles in this article: Should you buy a dog whistle .It will help to get you off to a great start with your new puppy. The crate which we suggest is foldable which makes it extra convenient. Dogs are naturally den animals and a crate provides them with a place where they can relax and feel safe. Crate training and choosing the right size Crate training makes toilet training a million times easier, and keeps your puppy safe at night whilst the family is asleep. The best puppy crate is one which is big enough for them to stand up, stretch out, turn around and lie down in. But no bigger. Or by buying an adult sized crate which comes with a divider, to allow you to provide the correct amount of space for your growing puppy. Bedding You will of course also need bedding to line the crate. This fake fleecy fur bedding comes in a roll and you can either buy a piece to fit your crate or cut to it to size yourself. For puppies, you should avoid any dog bed with a fancy liner and a stuffed or padded interior. Your pup will probably rip it open and eat the contents in no time. Check out our indestructible dog bed article for some great inspiration. Food is obviously the most important item on your new puppy supplies list. Puppy Food To start with, your new pup will need to eat three to four times a day. Having a supply of the new brand ready will allow you to make this changeover from the old food to the new, before the old runs out. The best puppy food is one which is low in carbohydrates and high in protein. Puppy Bowls Next up on the new puppy supplies list are their food and water bowls. Most of them are dishwasher safe, and cheap to buy. You can have a couple in the cupboard, making it easy to keep the food bowl shiny and clean between meals. The downside of the usual stainless steel food bowls is that they can tip over, not to mention the horrendous noise as the puppy chases them around the kitchen! To avoid these disadvantages, find a non-slip version with a steadier bottom. Those designed for use by dogs and puppies. Ceramic water bowls help to keep the water cool as well. The best part of getting a new pup is the fun you have playing with them — and for this puppy toys are real Labrador essentials! Between 12 to 24 weeks your pup will be losing their baby teeth and their new teeth will be emerging. This is a very uncomfortable time for you pup — the reason why they chew everything in their path. You can protect your shoes, furniture , and even cables, by making sure that they have plenty of toys to chew instead. Puppy toys are fun to buy, and there are a lot of choices out there. We have a couple of real firm favorites when it comes to puppy toys. Puppy kongs are brilliant. Kongs bounce around and can be played with if your pup feels like it, or picked up and carried around. Just make sure that the rope is thick and not easily shredded. Be sure to avoid small toys, or those with small parts that can be chewed off, that your pup can swallow. They can cause choking or blockages in their bellies. Besides being too small, the toys in your puppy supplies should also not be too big. They should be able to get their mouths around their toys easily. Having to stretch to chew on or pick up toys or bones that are too big can injure their growing jaws. Collar and leash You should introduce your pup to their dog collar and leash as soon as possible. They can get used to wearing their collar in the house from a young age, before going outside for walks. It has a convenient quick release buckle as well as an ID tag. Dog harnesses, instead of collars, are becoming increasingly popular among dog lovers. Always use a harness for a dog that has problems breathing. It also has a thick padded handle to protect your hands. A pup might still squirm and try to get away. Then you can start brushing again. Letting your pup inspect and sniff the brush also helps them to get over any fear. This specialised pet brush has fine bent wires that gets rid of mats without hurting. Amongst the most useful Lab puppy essentials on our new puppy checklist are puppy barriers. There are a few options for creating barriers, to keep your pup safe and give them some space when they need a break. The most popular puppy barriers are actually baby gates. They make fantastic human toddler and puppy barriers — you might even use them to separate the two. They come in a few different sizes, and fit into most doorways or hallway spaces. The human members of the family can easily come and go, whilst keeping the puppy securely contained. You can start using it with your pup from a very young age. Combined with treats, they let the pup know exactly when you approve of their behavior. Their use is rapidly increasing in popularity. Using positive reinforcement training and working with a clicker will help you to both train your puppy, and to form a stronger bond and better relationship together as he grows. Almost last but not least on our new puppy checklist is puppy insurance. There have been astonishing advances in the veterinary treatments that are available for our pets today. Most things you can be treated for, your dog can be treated for too. Open heart surgery, complex hip operations, and advanced cancer treatments are all available to dogs. Read The Small Print And do read the small print before you buy, some of the cheaper policies will dump you at the end of the year if your dog gets a long term condition. I did not read the small print and this happened to me. So take care to choose a policy that keeps on renewing as long as you keep on paying. Many dog owners would recommend the final Labrador puppy accessory on our new puppy checklist as the most essential. Covering everything from the first days at home, through crate training, potty training, dealing with teething and much more. Do you have any tips for our readers? Are there other items that you wish you had bought before your Labrador puppy arrived and would add to our puppy supplies list? Why not share your thoughts in the comments section below. However, we selected them for inclusion independently, and all of the views expressed in this article are our own. Non-slip bottom dog dishes Puppies naturally move their dish around as they are eating, especially if the dish has a flat bottom that easily pushes around the floor. We have found that dishes with a non-slip bottom can help so that your puppy is not chasing around his food dish. Make sure that it is large enough. And since dogs grow fast, that means they will likely grow to that size within a year to a year and a half. Almost all dogs we train eat between 4 -6 cups of dog food a day. So, make sure that your dish is large enough to accommodate this many cups. Water dish It is vitally important that your puppy have access to clean water for drinking. With the puppies we raise, we have found that it can be challenging to keep a small water dish full, so we prefer to use these 2-gallon water dishes. They are easy to fill and allow us to only have to fill them a couple times a week instead of several times a day. We suggest that you introduce a lead to your puppy as they start to grow in confidence and walk further from you when outside. There are two great reasons to do this early on. First it teaches your puppy how to handle the pressure of not being able to go wherever they want whenever they want. And it keeps your puppy from developing a habit of running away from you. A Flexi-lead works especially well if you want to give your puppy a little more freedom to go do his potty business but still keep control. Toys Puppies need toys. If you do not give them toys that they CAN chew and play with, they will chew on your sofa leg, or a book or a blanket or anything else they can find. So, purchase some good durable puppy chew toys. But watch your pup carefully. As they get older and stronger, they will be able to rip apart cloth toys and ingest them. Or they will chew rubber toys into small pieces and eat them. When your pup gets strong enough to destroy toys, it is time to take away the puppy toys and give them only dog toys designed for older , larger dogs or quality rawhides that they can chew that will not cause digestive problems. Stay away from rope toys. Many puppies have managed to ingest strings and ropes requiring surgery to remove them. Puppy-sized bumper If your plan is for your Labrador puppy to become a hunting or competition dog, you should have a puppy sized bumper. Learn more about teaching your puppy to fetch in this post. Barriers I recommend that you section off a small portion of your home and not let your puppy have full run of the entire house. Learn more about housebreaking your Lab puppy in this post. To section off a part, it can be helpful to have some child-gates available or an area of your home that you can close doors. This means that you need to show your puppy where the boundaries are and what is and is not allowed. To do this, you will need a few more tools. This is often when we see dogs that are running away from their owners, playing keep-a-way when retrieving and just basically being naughty. A lot of this could be avoided with the use of a check cord. Yes, a check cord can be cumbersome and often a pain to use, but it only takes one or two times of your puppy running away from you to make it worth it. Put a check cord on your puppy and allow them to drag it around with them. This alone is a great lesson for a dog. Dragging the weight is a type of pressure that they will need to learn to deal with. Occasionally, step on the rope and allow your dog to feel the pressure of being stopped and controlled. These sound like such minor things, but you would be surprised how much more well-adjusted your puppy will be just from learning these minor lessons. Chain or prong collar As your puppy gets stronger, it will get more and more difficult to control your puppy with a lead just hooked up to a nylon collar. As you notice that your puppy is getting harder to control, is pulling you around or dragging you down the street, you need to move to a chain or prong collar. Actually, it would be best if you changed to a chain or prong collar long before this becomes an issue. Remember, it is always easier to fix problems when they are small rather than waiting for them to become huge problems. Larger bumpers for retrieving dogs As your dog gets larger, you will want to move away from the puppy bumper and start using regular sized retrieving bumpers. We prefer to use plastic or rubber bumpers since they do not get as dirty or smelly as the canvas ones. They also last a lot longer and can be used for both water and land retrieves. Learn all about the different bumpers used for training hunting dogs here. Orange is a color that is difficult for retrievers to see, so that color should not be used for young dogs that are just learning about retrieving and hunting. Save the orange ones for advanced dogs working on blind retrieves. Final thoughts on What do I need to buy for a Lab puppy? There are many things that you will need for your new puppy both now and in the future. Take some time to prepare before you bring your puppy home so that you will avoid buying things on impulse that you may or may not need. If you are planning on using your puppy as a hunting or competition dog, check out 6 vital tools every gun dog trainer needs. You can email me at ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time happy retrieving. What do I need to buy for a Lab puppy?