golden retriever puppy losing teeth

How is a puppy supposed to know a behavior is not acceptable if you simply ignore it? Click to expand.You can't reason with a baby or a toddler with inadequate bladder control. This is about physical development, not behaviour. To reiterate, it's the owner's mistake when a puppy toilets inside, not the puppy's. I'm afraid you're not going to find much agreement with your method here. The puppy's instinct not to soil the den will kick in as it's nurtured. No, you're going to tell him "no" and take him away from it and give him a chew toy instead to make the point that chewing the sofa is not acceptable. Simply ignoring the bad behavior is just going to leave you needing to buy a new sofa. Same with potty training. Nope, you don't have to tell him "no", which means absolutely nothing to the puppy, unless you yell at him, in which case it will only work if the puppy feels punished by it. As it is, you can simply redirect him onto something else and prevent the behaviour happening by management; deny him access to the behaviour. This is not the same as ignoring the behaviour. No physical correction was used. A "No! No-one is saying it's cruel, but it is undeniably punishment and you have to own that. How is a puppy to know something is not acceptable if you don't communicate that? You teach them what to do rather than what not to do. Do you pee as often at night as you do during the day? Same with dogs. You cannot judge a puppy's daytime bladder control based on how long they can hold it overnight. Apologies if you feel vilified, but shouting at your puppy is neither necessary nor, to most of us here, acceptable. Umbilical cord training Throughout the rest of this guide I will be referring to each of these 4 methods and when you should or could be using them. Once used to using the paper or the pads, you slowly cut the area covered until they reliably use just a couple of sheets and never miss. You then slowly move the paper toward the outside where another set is placed and you begin to encourage your puppy to go outside only, before completely removing the papers inside. At this point they will have made the transition. A top tip when paper training is when you clean away soiled paper, you should hold one piece back and place it as a middle layer of the new papers. Puppy pads have a scent that attracts a puppy, paper does not. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 3. This is confusing and will make the learning process take longer. Best suited to: Either people who are going to have an indoor bathroom spot long-term, or people who will not use a crate for training yet cannot commit to constantly supervising their puppy when inside the home. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, definitely a 5. But it does result in more mistakes from your puppy until later in life. Equipment needed: Nothing but stacks of old newspapers! A very cost-effective method. Description: The method takes advantage of the fact dogs have a natural instinct not to soil the area where they eat and sleep. Key to this is making the crate just large enough to stand in, turn around easily and lay down stretched out but no bigger. The rest of the time you watch them and regularly take them outside to potty to teach them good habits. Best suited to: Everybody! This is because you will have to crate train your puppy before you can use a crate for house training which does take time and effort. Click here for my free and detailed guide to crate training your puppy. Equipment needed: A suitable crate. I have a guide to help you select the right size and type that you can read by clicking here. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I tentatively give it a 3. It could actually score higher or lower depending on how committed you are and how successful at supervising your puppy you are. Best suited to: People who are against any kind of confinement and can stay at home to watch their puppy all day every day. Mostly people who work from home and the retired. But this method also forms a part of every house training plan, whether you use other methods alongside or not. This is because when a puppy is free inside a home, they MUST be closely supervised to prevent any mistakes. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 2. It scores low as it requires a lot of input from you as the owner. It is quite draining never being able to take your eye of your puppy. Equipment needed: None. Not a crate, newspapers, puppy pads or anything. The cheapest of all the methods…unless you put a price on your time. But it is highly effective. Description: This technique calls for you to tether your puppy to you by leash and have them follow you wherever you go when inside your home. You will notice and be able to intervene and correct every possible mistake, taking them outside every time they need to relieve themselves. Used correctly, the opportunity for your puppy to make mistakes is completely removed so every single time they need to visit their bathroom spot is a training opportunity you will take advantage of and no mistake goes uncorrected. Best suited to: People who spend all their time at home with their puppy and would also enjoy literally being tied to their pup all day. Further Info: for a detailed discussion of this technique, the benefits, downside, and many more tips, please see my article: Umbilical Cord House Training: What is It? How Does It Work? A Mix Of 3 Methods I use and recommend a mixture of crate training, constant supervision and paper training. I use constant supervision extensively because when a puppy is outside of the crate you have to watch them diligently to avoid puppy mistakes. Admittedly this is somewhat going against my advice because I always recommend to avoid paper training if possible. It encourages or allows your puppy to toilet inside the home, before then training them not to do so. This is confusing to your puppy and harmful to our house training efforts. But even though I recommend against it, using paper training ever so occasionally as a fall back plan works well for me. Most dogs love being outside and will use any excuse to get out there and stay there. You do this by using a cue word and walking them on leash to their potty spot, not allowing them to do anything else and if they do not potty, taking them back inside and trying again in a few minutes. Because a full bladder or bowel is uncomfortable, dogs are happy to relieve themselves, but some may try to hold it if they think they can get to stay outside and sniff around a while. If people use different words, your dog will get confused. This will slowly teach them the command. And this is fine for the first couple of weeks while they have no bladder control and will perform their business very quickly. And some dogs even learn to actively hold their bladder just so they can stay outside to explore for longer. Before you can do this you need to first get your puppy used to wearing a collar and leash. Have You Got Everything Prepared? A Check-list Before You Start Like everything in life, house training runs smoother if you have everything ready before you start, hopefully before you even bring your puppy home. Have you: Decided on and marked out a suitable bathroom spot? Chosen and purchased a suitable high-quality nutritious food? Figured out the times of day you will feed your puppy? Got a collar and leash? Put in place a leash training plan? Bought a suitable crate and set it up in a suitable place? Bought bedding for the crate? Bought chew toys to occupy your puppy in the crate? Decided on the commands you will use if any? Purchased either baby gates, a pet barrier or an exercise pen for longer term confinement? Sourced stacks of newspapers or puppy pads to use in the long-term confinement area? Bought some small but highly tasty training treats to use as a reward? Bought specialized pet stain removing and odor neutralizing cleaning products? Bought a UV light to find hidden spots of urine that must be removed to prevent repeat accidents? Sat and discussed with every member of your household your finalized plans so everybody has the same info? Successful House Training Is All About Schedules And Routine Dogs thrive when living to schedules and routine, doing best when they have set times for eating, going to toilet, exercise, training and play. But because the passage of food through their digestive system stays roughly the same, if you feed your puppy at the same times every day they will need to defecate at roughly the same times every day. This results in fewer mistakes, more opportunities to praise your puppy for going in the right place and so speeds up their learning. Depending on their age a puppy will need to poop 3 to 6 times a day, and wee many more times than that. Can these times be predicted? Mostly they can. When a puppy needs to potty depends on when they last ate, drank and their recent activities. Mostly they need to go: First thing in the morning The instant they wake up from a nap at any time of the day Just before going to bed Within a few minutes of eating or drinking Immediately after a play session Immediately after any excitement But a puppy also needs to go many times per day regardless of recent activities, so you should also take your puppy to their bathroom spot on a consistent schedule such as the following: At 8 weeks old — every 30 mins. At 10 weeks old — every 45 mins. At 12 weeks old — every 1 to 1. At 16 weeks old — every 2 hours. At 20 weeks old — every 3 hours. Some will need to wee within 2 minutes of drinking, others after 20 minutes. Some will need a bathroom break within 2 minutes of waking, others 15 minutes later. You have to determine your puppies own natural tendencies and create a schedule to suit. To achieve this, you need to follow this 5 step process: Feed them to a strict schedule. Decide on exercise, play and training times. Develop a schedule including feeding, exercise, play, training and all scheduled potty times. Use the information gathered in your diary to learn from any mistakes and adjust your schedule for the following week. The more you can stick to schedules and routines, the smoother and faster the process will be. But you can stray from the path when necessary and still find success, it will just take a little longer. You should feed your puppy 3 times a day when 12 to 26 weeks old. From 26 weeks old and onwards, feed your puppy just two times a day For 2 meals a day you need to space them out 8 to 12 hours apart. What works for me is shortly after I get up at and when we have our evening meal between PM and PM. Availability Of Water: You should make sure fresh water is always available but because drinking too much or too little can be a sign of health problems, you do need to monitor their water intake. Physical activity often leads to a puppy needing to potty very soon after. So to encourage predictable potty times for your puppy, you want to schedule their exercise and play. Deciding when to exercise, train and play with your puppy is entirely up to you. You should fit it around your lifestyle and commitments, but try to make it the same times each day if you can. Enter all the following details into a single column in an excel spreadsheet, or write them down as a day schedule with a pen and paper: When you wake and add an instant bathroom break before you do ANYTHING for yourself! Enter the times you will play with, train and exercise your puppy. Enter a scheduled visit to the bathroom spot after each of the activities listed in points 1 to 3. Add scheduled bathroom visits after any length of time longer than your puppy should be expected to hold it according to their age. Write in scheduled sleeps for your puppy, place them in the crate or confinement area. After writing down this schedule, tick off each task as you go through the day with your puppy. This way you will always know what needs to be done and when, and there will be no confusion about whether someone else in the house fed, exercised or took the puppy to the loo. I discuss this further in step 5 below. You should be able to pick up on any patterns and adjust your own behavior to avoid mistakes in future. Was puppy left alone and peed in the living room while you made breakfast? Puppy should never be left alone unsupervised, learn from this mistake. Or maybe puppy peed in the crate after an hour? Learn from this mistake. Well done for watching them closely enough. So increase the frequency. Therefore you should stretch out the time between visits by 10 to 15 minutes for the following day. This is how you find out. And Now House Training is So Much Easier By writing out the schedule as in step 3, you should never forget to feed, train or take your puppy to potty. And by using the schedule as a diary as in step 5, you get feedback on how you and your puppy are performing, and are armed with the necessary info to make changes to your schedule over time. You, your puppy and their needs all stay in sync and house training becomes that much easier. Just make a spreadsheet in excel and print it out, or simply buy some lined paper. Keep it somewhere you can always see and know where it is, alongside a pen or pencil and write entries in it as you watch your puppy throughout the day. After this, continuing with a diary every day is the best advice, although keeping one for 3 consecutive days each week will be sufficient for you to pick up on any changes as they mature. Once your puppy is 5 to 6 months old, they will have sufficient bladder control and experience to make a schedule and diary unnecessary. Just make sure they get access to the outside at least once every 3 hours and all will be fine. Extending The Time Between Toilet Breaks I discussed earlier how a puppy will need regular visits to their bathroom spot, something like every 30 minutes at 8 weeks old, every 45 minutes at 10 weeks old and so on. But every puppy is different and their progress in having longer time between needed toilet breaks will vary too. You do this because as a puppy grows, the size of their bowel and bladder increases, so they will be able to hold more for longer and you want to take advantage of this. This is also teaching them necessary bladder and bowel control. Use your cue word before you take them: By using your chosen cue word every time before you take them to potty, your puppy will learn what the trip is about and what they must do. This eventually leads to faster results as they know what is expected of them. Lead your puppy to the bathroom spot on leash: This gives you the ability to keep your puppy at the bathroom spot and prevent them wandering off, getting distracted and forgetting what they are there for. Make sure you stay with them at their bathroom spot: If you have them on leash, then of course you will be. When they start to go, say your chosen cue word in a soft warm voice. Mix up the reward between play, time off leash and a food reward to keep them guessing, but keep the food rewards to a minimum as what goes in must come out and random feeding promotes random elimination times! Many people pop out, stand for 1 minute and then come back in. Some people recommend to stay out there for 10, 15, 20 minutes, whatever it takes until they go, then praise profusely when they do. I recommend you give them 3 to 5 minutes, saying your cue word every 30 seconds or so but otherwise standing silently still just holding their leash so they cannot wander off. Take them back to their bathroom spot in 10 minutes or so. If using a crate for house training: Pop them back in the crate and leave them for 10 minutes. Then take them back to their bathroom spot. Take them to their bathroom spot after 10 minutes. If not, take them away from their bathroom spot and watch them for 10 minutes before returning them to their bathroom spot. And if crate training, do not leave them in the crate too long else they may be forced to soil in there. Prevent this at all costs. Rinse and repeat the visits to and fro like this until they do potty, then follow the next sections advice. What You Should Do Between Scheduled Bathroom Breaks Between scheduled bathroom visits you should do two things: Allow some supervised free time in your home, and use your chosen house training method. By free time I mean time outside of their crate, or off leash, or out of their confinement area. Time free to roam, explore and live life. When 10 weeks old they may need to toilet every 30 minutes, so they only get 5 to 10 minutes free time. When 12 weeks old, they may need to toilet every hour so they can get 35 to 40 minutes free time. You allow this free time because you are of course working toward a time when they will always be free and trusted unsupervised. To get there they need the experience, to get used to being free in your home and begin seeing it as a place they need to keep clean. They also need social interaction and life experiences. But what are the signs a puppy is about to potty? Heading toward, barking at or scratching the door to the outside. The minute you see any of these signs you should take your puppy to their bathroom spot immediately. There may well be some false alarms, but better safe than sorry. Carefully watch them and you should soon notice what body language means a wee or a poop is imminent. There will be recognizable signs. We do this because the time is fast approaching when mistakes are most likely to be made. If using constant supervision: Carry on as you are. Then at their scheduled potty time, attach a leash and lead them to their bathroom spot. If using a crate for house training: Encourage your puppy into their crate and close the door, leaving them there until their scheduled potty time and then release them, instantly attaching a leash and leading them to their bathroom spot. If using umbilical cord training: Attach a leash and tether your puppy to you, ready to react if they make moves to eliminate. Take them to their bathroom spot at the scheduled time. If paper training: Take your puppy to their confinement area where their papered bathroom spot is and supervise them, ready to intervene if they make moves to potty away from the paper. Not good when you need to be there to encourage them for doing it in the right place. If they do, you can pick them up and carry them, or take them by the collar and gently lead them to their bathroom spot, then encourage them to finish where they should. But to me this seems foolish. Instead of a little pile or puddle, you then have a long line of wee or poop from where you caught them all the way to the bathroom spot that you then have to deep clean instead. Then think how they were able to make such a mistake and tweak your plans so it cannot happen again. But any corrections or punishment now will be futile. House Training For Full Time Workers This advice applies not just to full-time workers , but also if you must occasionally leave your puppy home alone for a few hours. Most importantly, follow all the advice in this guide so far for the times that you are home. Supervise them, correct any mistakes, set feeding and elimination schedules and everything else I have advised. First of all, if like me you use a crate, you simply cannot leave your puppy in the crate for many hours. This is very unfair on your puppy and it will destroy the crates power as a house training tool if they lose the instinct to keep it clean. Secondly, please do your best to enlist the help of a family member, friend, neighbor or hire a dog walker to periodically pop in to visit your puppy, take them to their bathroom spot, give them some social interaction and so on. But I also freely admit to using paper training myself occasionally, for the unavoidable times I have to leave my puppy home alone for a few hours. If you have to leave your puppy home alone for any reason, usually because you work, then paper training in your absence is the only thing you can do. You then have two options available to you: Buy and use an exercise pen, or confine your puppy to a single, puppy-proofed room. As they get used to pottying on paper, reduce the area covered one sheet at a time until just a small area remains covered. Once you know your puppy can hold their bladder for longer than they have to be left alone, remove the paper altogether. By 16 to 20 weeks, they should be able to last the 3 or 4 hours max they will be left alone and somebody comes to exercise them and allow a bathroom break. Between 8 and 12 weeks when weeing seems spontaneous , my puppy spends a fair bit of time in there and I paper train them to use puppy pads. Our kitchen and dining room was separated by an arch where a door used to be, with tiled flooring, making it ideal. I used a baby gate across the arch between the kitchen and dining room, and initially covered the dining area with paper, over time reducing it to just two sheets with the puppy pad holder on top. The dining area is completely empty, with no furniture, nothing in there. Skirting boards, the corners of furniture items, anything within reach is a potential target for teeth and claws. My girlfriend works from home, we crate trained and we had no problem finding house sitters in an evening if we needed one, so we all but had things covered. But this is something you need to be mindful of. Whatever the reason, there just WILL be times you cannot supervise your puppy. The essence of house training is to prevent mistakes and praise your puppy heavily when they potty in the right place. If you cannot watch your puppy, the chances of them making a mistake go through the roof. So even if you choose to use a constant supervision method exclusively, you will still need to confine your puppy sometimes to a paper covered area just in case. I mean literally none at all. One minute they are trotting along, the next they are leaking. No warning signs for you, not even any warning signs for them. I recommend setting up an exercise pen with the entire area papered, or do as I do and confine them to a room with the entire area papered. Use this time to paper train them, to get them used to weeing on paper and gradually reduce the area because you will use this method if you ever have to leave them home alone during the next 4 or 5 months. They will sniff, circle and so on as I mentioned before. At this point you can now move on to using your chosen house training method. Start encouraging them to potty in the right place from the minute you get them home. So the good news is, even at 8 weeks they will be able to last 4 or so hours and you will only need to wake once during the night. Also, make sure to take them to their bathroom spot right before you go to bed so they can empty themselves. Then set an alarm for 4 hours after their bed time when you must get up and take them to their bathroom spot. No excuses, you simply must do this. If you find your puppy has soiled in this time, you should set the alarm for half an hour earlier the next night 3. After a few days of not having a night-time accident, set your alarm for 15 minutes later and increase the time by 15 minutes for each successful night they do not have an accident. If you find they make a mistake one night before you wake, set the alarm back half an hour, make sure they stay dry a few days and then increase 15 minutes nightly again. And by using this schedule, you strike a good balance between a couple of inevitable accidents while stretching out the time at a good pace to lasting a full night. If they soil their crate more than once in any given week, you may have to progress slower add 15 minutes every 2 or 3 days , or perhaps sleep them in a papered exercise pen or their confinement room. Maintaining their instinct to keep the crate clean is of utmost importance. What To Do At The Bathroom Spot At Night When you take them out at night, say your chosen cue word, take them straight to their bathroom spot, praise them gently when they finish their business but do not reward them with anything else. The last thing you want is to teach your puppy that during the night is a time for play or food treats! This will come back to haunt you in a big way and result in noisy sleepless nights. You want your puppy to learn that night-time is for sleeping and for nothing else. Do nothing else. Some will be able to last the whole night without a potty break at 10 weeks rarely , and some may not be able to at 15 weeks also rarely. But certainly by 16 weeks old your puppy will be able to last a 7 hour night without needing to potty if you do not feed them for 3 hours or provide water for 2 hours before bed time and allow them to empty themselves right before you lay down for the night. No Progress? If you are feeding, exercising, training and playing with your puppy to a schedule, and when you look at your diary there seems to be no pattern to the times they need to potty, you should seek the advice of your vet. Common ailments such as gastroenteritis, urinary tract infection and health issues affecting internal organs and the genitalia can lead to a dog needing to potty much more frequently, often leading to eliminating in the house. Again, seek the advice of your family vet. You cannot successfully house train a puppy who is ill because their bodily functions will be too unpredictable. But 6 to 7 months is the ball park figure to aim for. A single mistake in the home can cause a major setback. A puppy may not make a mistake for 2 weeks, then you give them too much freedom, they make a mistake and all of a sudden they are regularly trying to potty in the home again. Also, some puppies just seem to forget everything for a few days now and then while growing up, even after being perfect for a couple of weeks. Just stick to your plan and they WILL eventually get it. Conclusion With house training, the fewer mistakes you allow your puppy to make and the more they are rewarded for doing the right thing, the quicker they will learn and the faster you will find success. Because of this, the more effort you put in and the more time you spend with your puppy at the beginning — supervising to correct mistakes and taking them to their bathroom spot many times each day — the better. But there are many other things you can do to help yourself and your puppy to find success. This guide has provided you with all the theory, strategies, tips and tricks you will ever need to successfully house train your puppy as quickly and efficiently as possible, with the fewest mistakes along the way. Please see the entire series linked to below:. Learn to spot the signs Never punish your Lab after an accident Use potty pads as a temporary indoor alternative Recognize excitement urination Be aware of submissive urination Allow more freedom as your puppy improves The ultimate aim of housebreaking your puppy is to prevent accidents. Control His Environment When potty training your puppy, the first thing to do is to control his environment. Use a long leash and attach your pup to your waist, even when inside the house. This allows you to look out for warning signs. Your pup will sleep in the crate, whereas the playpen provides extra space. Make sure to choose a pen with a door so that you can attach it to the crate, such as the Midwest Homes for Pets Folding Exercise Pen from Amazon. I also recommend the Midwest Homes for Pets icrate. Introduce the Crate Slowly introduce the crate when crate training your Lab over the first few days. When you let your pup out of his crate, immediately take him outside. When he is away from his own room, make sure you closely supervise him by keeping him attached to you on a long leash. Allow Frequent Potty Breaks Give your dog lots of opportunities to go outside. Create a Puppy Potty Schedule Dogs thrive off routines, including mealtimes, exercise, and potty training! You can set an alarm on your watch or phone to remind you to take your dog outside to his toilet area. Your pup will need to go first thing in the morning, after a meal or drinking, when he wakes from a nap, after playtimes, and before bedtime. Look for clues such as sniffing the floor or carpet, circling, restlessness, becoming overexcited, whining, or making towards the door. This includes whether you catch him in the act or if it happened a while ago. Moreso, the latter, as your dog will have no idea what he is being punished for! This is because dogs have a terrible short-term memory and will forget an event in two minutes. Instead, take him straight outside and reward him with a treat and lots of praise if he finishes off his business. Use Potty Pads as a Temporary Indoor Alternative Potty pads can be handy in extended periods of bad weather or if you live in a high-rise apartment and it takes longer to get outside. They can also be useful when traveling. This is when your Labrador gets so excited he will pee a small amount. It may happen when a family member or friend visits. To prevent this, allow your dog to eliminate before a visitor arrives and ensure visitors make their entrance low-key with no fuss, even ignoring the pup for a few minutes. Dogs will usually grow out of excitement pee by 18 months of age. Be Aware of Submissive Urination This is also common, but your puppy will outgrow it. It occurs when your Labrador wants to show submissive status to a person or another animal. He may squat and urinate during specific situations. To prevent it, avoid yelling and physical punishment, appear less intimidating when approaching, kneel down, and stroke under his chin instead of the top of his head. At first, keep his sleeping area small and then gradually increase the size slowly and methodically. Remove the divider in the crate or make the playpen area larger if you arent using a crate. You can use a crate to your advantage as it helps your pup develop quicker bowel and bladder control. To potty train a Lab puppy with a crate, use the crate as a tool. When the door is closed, your Lab will let you know he needs to eliminate by whining or scratching. He will learn self-control quicker. Crates are great when you cannot fully supervise your puppy and are an ideal way to control his environment. However, you still need to keep a close eye on him and spot the signs when he needs to go. Make it smaller using a divider. He will be less likely to eliminate in a smaller sleeping area. Check out my recommendations for the Best Dog Crates for Labradors and Playpens , including soft crates, travel crates, and furniture styles. Just be aware that it will probably take a little longer. Use dog gates to section off an area of the house. When away from his confinement, tether your pup to you with a long leash and establish a strict potty break schedule. If you choose dog gates, there are many styles you can choose to match your decor and configure how you like. This area should contain training pads or newspapers. Potty Training Puppies Between Months Old Most puppies are around eight weeks old when they leave their mother and littermates, but occasionally your pup may be a little older when you first bring him home. You may wonder how to potty train an older puppy and whether you should do anything different. Generally speaking, you should follow the same principles as training an 8-week-old Lab. However, a more mature puppy should be able to grasp housebreaking quicker. Labrador house training routines. We want them to learn to wait until they are outdoors before emptying their bladder or bowels. It is about maturity too. We need to understand that tiny puppies have immature bodies and are not physically capable of waiting very long. On your side There are two factors on your side in the potty training process. When it comes to bladder control, fortunately your puppy improves with every day that passes, so this factor does not work against you forever. The same applies to the fact that the puppy has been removed from his nest, he will soon learn to accept his new nest. The principles of puppy potty training The puppy is learning the principle of extending the nest area, which he keeps clean instinctively, to include your entire home. Punishment is counter-productive in this process as it teaches the puppy to avoid emptying himself in your presence. Rewards are helpful, but given the right routine, a puppy will naturally learn to be clean without them. The secret to successful house training lies in selecting targets that the puppy can achieve. If your puppy sometimes needs to wee every 15 minutes whilst he is awake and active, you will have to take him outside every 15 minutes. Restricted access Start small applies here too. Allow your puppy access only to a small part of your home. Increase the area he has access to, only when he is capable of keeping the current area clean. Just because he can. And because the sensation of a filling bladder is a new one. Your job is to teach him to wait a little longer. You do this by confining him for a short time, every time his bladder fills. You can confine him in his nest within a crate , or in your arms. He will be reluctant to wee in either location. If he wets himself, you have waited too long! It takes two You need to go outside with your puppy, and stay out there with him, each time he needs to wee. A tiny puppy is unlikely to empty himself on his own. This especially applies in cold or wet weather. Routines Matter When House Training a Labrador Retriever Based around these practical requirements you can create your own house training routine. For a puppy that needs to wee every half an hour, it will go something like this Take puppy outside to the toilet area and wait with him until he empties himself Bring him indoors and allow him free access to your kitchen for fifteen to twenty minutes Crate or cuddle the puppy until it is thirty minute since his last wee Take the puppy back out to the toilet area If at any time the puppy does not empty himself then confine him for another ten minutes and try again. As soon as he is regularly not needing to wee after thirty minutes you can extend the duration of free access to your kitchen. Provided you stick to these principles and strategies, the house training process, though quite intense for a short while, will pass smoothly. Supervise Your Puppy Your second job is to supervise or contain your puppy when his bladder is filling up. You can do this by crating him for a few minutes, or by cuddling him in your arms. I recommend the cuddle option for the first few days, that way you can introduce the crate gradually once he has settled into his new home. Either spend your first day together in the yard getting a feel for how frequently they pee. As you can see, there is some guesswork involved in house training a puppy, but not too much. The secrets of successful outdoor toilet trips Not wanting to pee outside is a common toilet training puppy problem and one we look at in more detail in this article. Keeping your puppy company is the key. You need to go outside with your puppy and wait there with him until he has done a wee. This may take longer than you would like, and you probably have better things to do than stand in your yard while your puppy chases butterflies or plays with your shoe laces. But stay outside you must, until he has done that wee. Coming Indoors Early If you must come indoors before your puppy has relieved himself, you need to supervise him very closely. Hold him in your arms — or put him in a small crate for a few minutes — before going back out to try again. It is a new puppy problem, and it will pass. And if you teach your puppy to pee on command, it will pass even quicker! Rewarding success If you put plenty of effort in, and take your puppy out a great deal in those first few days, he will quickly learn that the place you have allocated to him for potty purposes is the place to pee. You can praise him and give him a little treat for doing so. Have your treat on hand keep them next to your poop bags so you remember to grab both on the way out , and deliver it right after your puppy has completed their business. Rewarding his successes and ignoring his accidents is the quickest way of successfully communicating what you want, and quickly potty training your puppy. Stage 2 — Learning self control During stage 2 your puppy begins to develop some self control. This means he can wait a few minutes before emptying himself when his bladder starts to feel full. Keep an eye on your puppy for the tell tale signs that he needs to use the toilet: whimpering, whining or barking sniffing about, especially sniffing in circles! Using Your Crate If your puppy is now used to his crate, you can start using it stretch out the gaps between toilet trips. Accidents during stage 2 At some point during stage 2, many puppies will be able to last an hour or so between wees. This is when puppy parents often relax their vigilance, and their puppies start having accidents in the house again. Simply go back to shorter gaps between trips to the yard for a few days. Then start to space out those trips again, but more gradually this time. Stage 3 — Extending the clean zone This is where all your hard work starts to really pay off. Once your puppy is confidently and consistently toileting outdoors, and you can further stretch out the gaps between toilet breaks, and start to introduce your puppy to the rest of your home. Take it slowly, and if accidents occur, to go back to shorter gaps between trips outdoors for a few days. Bear in mind that your puppy may be used to peeing in the yard and not in the kitchen by now, but they might not automatically understand which rule applies to the lounge. Method 2: How to potty train a puppy indoors This section has a lot in common with how to potty train a puppy when you work. So follow method 2 if you need to know how to potty train a puppy in an apartment as well. And that means using pads. How to potty train a puppy on pads The simplest way to do this is to restrict the puppy to a smallish room with washable floors. Cover the floor with puppy pads to begin with, with their bed in one corner. How do you train a puppy to pee on a pad? With this arrangement in place, as long as your puppy leaves his bed to pee which his mom will have encouraged him to do , he will pee onto the pads. So over the next few days, reduce the area of the floor that is covered with puppy pads by half. You should find he begins to make an effort to pee and poop on the part of the floor that is covered — but it needs to be a sizeable part to get this good habit established. How to potty train a puppy fast using pads — reducing the toilet area By the end of the first week, you can begin to reduce the part of the floor that is covered with puppy pads right down to a small area, preferably near the back door. It is usually best to do this when you have some time booked off work — or during a long weekend when the weather is fine. But if you choose to crate train your puppy LINK alongside potty training him, the crate can be a useful aid for potty training too. Once your puppy thinks of the crate as their bed, they will be reluctant to soil in it. You Still Need To Watch Your Puppy Always watch puppies closely in their crate during potty training, and whisk them out to the right spot at the first sign they might need to relieve themselves. You can find out a lot more about crate training and the role it plays in rapid house training on this page. As well opportunities to use the toilet, Labrador puppies need company and socialisation while they are small. So, if you are going to go back to work you need to arrange someone to look after him, or to come in at intervals throughout the day to play with him and take him out. Here are some articles which will be of interest if you are thinking of getting a puppy and work full time:. Print Potty train your puppy quickly Housebreaking is one of the least desirable tasks when adding a new puppy to your family. It is never fun but consider it a necessary task. You will never regret having a dog that knows your home is not a bathroom. When to start housebreaking Housebreaking should begin the day you bring your puppy home from the breeder. It is important to establish quickly that there is a right and wrong place for your puppy to go potty. How long does it take to house train a lab puppy? I wish I could give a definitive answer for this, but the truth is that every puppy is different. Most puppies can be completely house broke by the time they are months. But assume there will be a lot of ups and downs through the process. Some puppies learn very quickly and rarely have an accident. Others take more time to make the connection. Here are some things you can do to help the process go smoothly. Have the right attitude! Keep your attitude in check to help this process go quickly and smoothly. Have patience! As already stated, potty training can take some time. It may happen, but it is unlikely. Instead, plan for a long haul and then you will be more patient and understanding when mishaps happen. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Step 1: Establish a place for your puppy to go potty To get started housebreaking your puppy, you must first establish a place where it is okay for your puppy to do his business. Find a place outside that is not too far from your home, but an area where you are not worried about killing the grass or trampling plants that are important to you. Consider this carefully, because once your puppy starts going potty in this area it will be exceedingly difficult to move or change the area. Once the scent is there, it is natural for dogs to continue going potty in the same area over and over. Do I have to potty train outside? In some areas of the country, winters can be very cold. Some new puppy owners wonder if it is too cold for their Labrador puppy to go outside to potty train during these times. The answer is no. Most Labs can easily be outside for a few minutes even during the coldest nights to go potty. A pee pad is a disposable, leak proof pad that is scented to attract your dog and encourage going potty on them. We highly discourage using pee pads because in the long run it is confusing to your dog. If you spend time teaching your puppy to NOT go potty inside your home and then flip-flop and begin letting them go inside your home on a pee pad, your dog will be confused. Besides, eventually you must retrain them to going outside, so the best policy is to never start letting inside be an option. Step 2: Establish a routine and schedule for your puppy Establishing a routine is the single most important step for housebreaking. The more consistent you are, the faster your puppy will learn to go outside for potty. This time will increase rapidly over the next few weeks, but that first week is going to take a lot of time and energy on your part to consistently let your puppy out on a schedule. To make being consistent easier, consider this: Set a timer When housebreaking puppies, we find that setting a timer is helpful. An hour flies by and you hardly realize it. For the first few days at least, set a timer and let your puppy out hourly, especially if your puppy is not in a crate. We will discuss that more in a bit. Timing is everything There are other times when you need to let your puppy outside. Immediately after eating or drinking your puppy should go outside. Eating and drinking will trigger a need to go potty, so to avoid accidents, take your puppy out every time they eat or drink. And if they drink a lot of water, you may have to take them out several times before they are back on schedule. Anything you can do to make going potty a routine will help your dog learn and associate that going outside is where I need to go to go potty. Use a command I know this sounds crazy but using a command can help your dog form an association between the command and going potty. At first this is meaningless to the puppy. And you cannot discipline your puppy for a potty accident in the house that you never saw happen. The solution for this is never let your puppy go unsupervised. This can be exhausting, that is why we suggest using a crate to help. The stern words must be said during the accident or immediately after to have any effect. Using a crate to house train your puppy First, while your puppy may not love his crate right away, if properly introduced and used consistently, Labs usually come to love their crates. As den animals, dogs will view their crate as a den where they can go to sleep or get away from the business of the home. Learn more about crate training your Labrador puppy here. When using a crate to housetrain your puppy, you first want to make sure that you have a very small crate. One that is just a little bigger than your puppy. This is particularly important because you do not want your puppy to be able to move around much in the crate. If they can move around, they can and often will go potty in the crate. So, start with a very small crate and get bigger crates as the puppy grows. Whatever you choose to use to block off the larger area, make sure that it is not something your puppy can chew on or ingest. You will still need to find a way to gradually increase the area that the puppy has access to, so I just find the multiple crate solution easier. You should still set a timer and take your puppy out on a regular basis, and you will want to schedule some time each day for the puppy to run around the house and play while supervised. Step 4: Using praise to speed the house breaking process You can help your puppy more quickly understand that going potty outside is the right thing to do by giving your puppy well-timed praise. But the praise must be well-timed. You should give the praise while your puppy is going potty outside or immediately after. Timing is very important! Lots of people get upset when the dog goes inside but fail to praise when the dog does the right thing. Not all dogs are the same. Some puppies will whine just before they go potty in the house, or whine at the door when they need to go. Some will hide somewhere you cannot see them and do their business there. Still others may scratch at the door. How long can a puppy hold it overnight? With young puppies, weeks old, you will need to get up several times a night to let them out. It can be helpful to limit the amount of water your puppy has access to close to bedtime. We usually aim for every 3 hours and then steadily increase the time as they get older. But each puppy is different. Final thoughts on how to house train your Labrador puppy Remember that housebreaking is a process. It rarely follows a straight line and more often there will periods of success and occasional mishaps. Stick with it and before long your puppy will understand that going potty in the house is not okay. Until next time, happy retrieving. How to housebreak your Labrador puppy.

If you click and purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Learn More Anyone on the search for reputable Bernedoodle breeders in NY knows how difficult and time-consuming this task can be. As fellow Doodle owners, we understand the struggle. For this reason, we decided to look into all the different Bernedoodle breeders in New York and single out the best ethical breeding programs in your state. Although not as popular as Goldendoodles or Labradoodles, the Bernedoodle has become one of the more popular Doodle breeds in recent years. The Bernedoodle combines the calm and gentle temperament of the Bernese, and the goofy personality and hypoallergenic coat of the Poodle. Responsible breeders only use fully health tested parent dogs in their programs that are cleared of any serious hereditary conditions. Although an expensive extra step, this is the only way to guarantee that the puppies come from healthy and strong bloodlines. See Also: Click the image Moreover, ethical breeders also offer genetic health guarantees that cover serious and life threatening conditions that the parents have been tested for. Typically, these health warranties cover the first one or two years. Although not all reputable breeders are affiliated with certain organizations, it does give you some added sense of security that the breeder follows responsible breeding guidelines and standards. You might even be able to find discussions on your local Reddit communities. As a family breeder, Lakeside Doodles raises all of their puppies right inside their home. As an added bonus, their puppies get used to all sorts of regular busy household activities, sights, and sounds. All of their parent dogs have passed their health and genetic testing. In addition to that, they also test their parents for coat type and shedding levels. What Makes This Breeder Unique? They follow the Puppy Culture program to give the pups the best start in their care. In addition to that, they implement the Early Neurological Stimulation method ENS , and introduce the puppies to new people and places, regular grooming, and crate training. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. About Us We are a family breeder located on a 6 acre hobby farm in the beautiful hills of Western NY. After a mini goldendoodle became part of our lives, we knew we had to be a part of the doodle world. We have searched long and hard for the perfect dogs and are so excited to introduce you to our Bernedoodles. Our dogs are members of our family and we can't wait to help you find a new member for yours. We believe in bringing you the best dogs that are healthy, loving, loyal and family oriented. Specializing In: Currently we are specializing in traditional tri, phantom tri and parti tri colored F1 and F1b Standard and Mini Bernedoodles. Bernedoodles combine the athleticism and intelligence of the Standard Poodle with the calm, laid back and affectionate nature of the Bernese Mountain Dog. With good breeding, the resulting puppies are beautiful, playful, affectionate, loyal, sweet and sometime quite comical. They are low to no shedding and tend to be allergy friendly. Full grown, our Standard Bernedoodles will weigh between between 80 lbs. Our Miniature Pups will weigh between lbs. My Bernedoodles are usually black, brown and white in a vaiety of color patters. I am also looking at adding a blue Merle to my pups. I love all Bernedoodle colors and work hard to breed puppies that are beautiful and have great temperaments. Some can have the taller but more slight build of the poodle, others have the stockier build of the Bernese. Their coats come in a variety of styles as well. Most Bernedoodles have a wavy coat, which are low to no shedding. Some can also have a curlier coat more like the poodle. Generally, the curlier the coat the less likely it is to shed. With little to no shedding, Bernedoodle coats can get matted. They need to be brushed regularly and clipped every few months. The F1 cross is considered the healthiest, as the parents have the least likelihood of contributing genes for common inheritable diseases. F1b puppies are the most likely to be non-shedding and allergy-friendly. I currently do not breed F2 Bernedoodles. They are all about people and are happiest when they're spending time with their families: playing, cuddling, and making us laugh. The puppies are raised in our home, being snuggled daily by our children, and come with a 12 month genetic health guarantee. View Our Available Bernedoodle Puppies! Standard Bernedoodles are bigger than Mini Bernedoodles reaching weights of pounds. They average inches in height at the shoulders when fully grown. Our Standard Bernedoodle puppies are all 1st generation-F1 variety puppies. They have purebred Bernese Mountain dogs for moms and the dads are Standard poodles. Their Standard Bernedoodles life expectancy is years old. Blue Diamond Bernedoodles have a loving, easy-going, and calm temperament. Bernedoodles are very loyal and social and love to spend time with their parents. Standard Bernedoodles need regular grooming because of their curly and thick coats. Shedding is very minimal after their first haircut and grooming. This breed is known to be a hypoallergenic choice. Here at Blue Diamond Family Kennels, we specialize in breeding Standard Bernedoodles along with a few other great breeds. We have teamed up with a few other reputable Bernedoodle breeders that breed and raise Bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. On our Standard Bernedoodle puppies page you will see all of our available puppies for sale. View Our Available Puppies! You should not confuse Mini Bernedoodles with Standard Bernedoodles. Our adorable Mini Bernedoodle are of the F1 variety. All the doodle moms are purebred Genetic Tested Bernese Mountain dog females. Our mini Bernedoodle pups usually end up weighing pounds and around inches tall when full grown. Most Mini bernedoodles live to be around years old. Mini Bernedoodles have become really popular because they shed very little after they shed their puppy coat, they are very hypoallergenic. We have specialized in breeding Mini Bernedoodles as well as a few other breeds for many years. They are a big part of our family and farm. We have also partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. We usually have a good selection of very high quality doodle puppies. So if you live near Long Island New York and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Bernedoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are a few of our Mini Bernedoodle Pups!

This dog has been the best companion, we live near Peoria Illinois now and my lab is probably the most popular dog of our family. Everyone loves her! This is a very professionally operated AKC lab breeder. Very transparent and straightforward. Got my dog tina 6 months ago and has great health and temperament. I decided to post my gratitude. We bought Marvin over a year ago and have enjoyed this healthy lovable guy. He is a white lab and brings joy to my family. Thank you seven oaks for all you do! Chris did a phenomenal job training her. The grounds are clean, they are AKC registered, and the dogs are well taken care of. I highly recommend. We have 3 puppies - 3 generations- from Seven Oaks and will come back for a 4th! Maggie was a beautiful dark chocolate , quiet lab who enjoyed brushings, playing in water, car rides, going on walks, and looking out windows at baby ducks. She was perfect for my apartment. She is missed dearly. Madi is my beautiful yellow lab who is very happy and energetic. She is a big girl who loves car rides, playing with her toys, and eating. She enjoys sitting on the patio and watching people. Both labs fit into the family. Chris and Linda are very friendly, knowledgeable and professional. They take care of their animals. The environment is always clean. I highly recommend them and plan to return in the future when the need arises. Our family has added two pups from Seven Oaks: one male yellow lab and one female black lab. The male, we lovingly call Moose is sweet and playful and loves a good rubbing! He is a true lab who will play fetch until he wears himself out and then finds the nearest water to cool off in. Our female, Molly is a mischievous girl who gets her snout into everything but is always a friendly greeter and full of joy. They have both become my best companions and our kids love them to pieces. They both get along great with all of our other farm animals and all the humans they come in contact with. Quality animals with wonderful personalities and dispositions! Highly recommend Seven Oaks! Looking forward to a chocolate one!!! Our pup also just completed a 2 week obedience training with them. Our lab is beautiful and healthy, and we are very pleased with the obedience training as well. We have had our Mabel for almost a year, and she is healthy with a delightful temperament. If we decide to add another lab to our family, we will certainly go back to Seven Oaks Kennel. Their ranch is beautiful, and you can tell they take very good care of their animals. We purchased a chocolate lab puppy last October and have been so happy and in love with our boy. Everything about the experience from beginning to end was fantastic. Great communication, very helpful in terms of preparing us on our new addition, and available after the fact to answer any questions we had in those first few days. Eye color in a chocolate lab can be dark drown, bright green, hazel, or light yellow. Always look at the parents, it will give you a good idea as to what your puppy will look like grown. Chocolate Labs were not recognized by the AKC till but they were around long before then. Chocolate Labradors were once considered the ugly duckling of the Labrador breed. Today they are considered one of the most beautiful and extremely popular Labrador color, but it took a long time again for this rare and unique color to be accepted. With their great personalities and willingness to please, the chocolate Labrador, along with all the other colors, has earned a top spot in the heart of millions. Like all Labrador colors, chocolates have a sweet and soft temperament. Eyes are the window to the soul of a lab, the eyes tell the story of this extremely outgoing playful breed. Chocolate Labs are bred to point, flush, and retrieve. They are also amazing search and rescue dogs, guide dogs, and assistance dogs. They are smart and gentle which makes them the perfect family dogs, and this is true of all colors of the Labrador Retriever. They are ranked 1st in AKC as one of the top most owned dog breed. Picking a color is a personal preference, no matter the color you choose, all labs are bred to excel in every environment or task put in front of them. Thank you for taking the time to learn about the intelligent and loyal Chocolate Labrador Retriever. Teaching Puppie to Sit Excellent Companion Perfect Hunting Dog The Labrador Retriever is a strongly built, medium-sized, short-couple dog that possesses a sound, athletic, well-balanced conformation that enables it to function as a retrieving gun dog. It has both the substance and soundness to hunt waterfowl or upland game for long hours under difficult conditions. We believe the 10 lab puppies inherited these traits also. Obviously, Labrador Retrievers are the most popular breed in America. Because of their even temperament and trainability, millions of Americans own Labrador Retrievers as pets. In addition, Labradors are well-suited as disability-assistants in many countries; for example, Labradors are frequently trained to aid the blind and those who have autism. They also work as therapy dogs, as well as perform screening and detection work for law enforcement and other official agencies. Additionally, they are prized as sporting and hunting dogs. The Lab is such a versatile and family-friendly breed. From hunters to sportsmen, pet owners, and event competitors, Labradors are the dog of choice for the best of reasons. Labradors are a loving breed that make excellent furry family members, are wonderful with children, adults, and animals alike, and offer years of unconditional love and support to the right owner and caretaker. I purchased my lab puppy from them in .Grover is a wonderful pet. We are very pleased, and would purchase another lab pup from them again. Larry called me to ask for a recommendation, and I said I would gladly give him one. Zeva my yellow female lab is 12 years old now, and she is getting up there in age. If the time came, and I wanted another dog, I would call Larry for certain. We have been very pleased with Zeva through the years. She is a wonderful companion!! Laura Bein Larry, and Tracey are my next door neighbors. We purchased Lacy combo of Larry, and Tracey in .We know what kind of dogs they had, and how they cared for their dogs. It was an easy decision to purchase Lacy from them. She passed away this year, and we dearly miss her. My sister is getting a black female from Larry when the puppies are available. I will also purchase my next lab from Peoples Choice Labs when I am ready for another lab. I am just not quite ready to pull the trigger yet. Contact info. They answer any and all questions you might have in a timely manner, before and after you leave with your puppy. The right breeder is everything and Angie will exceed your expectations when it comes to Labradors. We are absolutely in love with our yellow lab and will never go anywhere else!! We love Pilot!!! Jackie Klinski Longo We adore our pup Ruby! She has an amazing temperament and with three kiddos that was so important to us. She is a true companion. My parents have their puppy Finley from Alder Creek as well and we adore him so much too! Amy Forks I am beyond excited to meet my new yellow lab puppy this weekend! I already have a beautiful chocolate lab from AlderCreek, and I know that I will be getting the best in quality, beauty, and disposition with my 2nd lab from AlderCreek. Angie does a wonderful job of matching puppies to their new human families. I have no… Sallie Broaddus Angie is the best at what she does. Her preparation and organization for that change was a game changer for me as a new pup parent as well as for the young lab…. Matthew Dueser Where to begin?! Our family now has two incredible labs from Angie Brown. We began with Angie in December of .I have recommended her to people every chance I get! Angie is extraordinarily thorough. She has a vast array of experience in the world of Labradors. Angie loves hearing from us and seeing all of our many lab… Elizabeth Kuper Make A Puppy Inquiry We know finding a genetically sound puppy with the right temperament takes a lot of time and research.

Ann and Tim Egan came to French Bulldogs by way of horses. The couple married and began breeding, training and showing horses, having several World and National Champions in their barn. Ann decided that she wanted something that she could cuddle with on the couch and so their love affair with Frenchies began. We have carefully selected each dog that is part of the family and, we believe that we have some of the finest genetics in the world. We understand that not every puppy we produce is bound for the show ring however, we take the same pride in those pet puppies as we do our champions, We health test our breeding stock and, we breed to the AKC Breed Standard. We do not now, nor will we ever, breed "fad colors". We typically have brindle and black mask fawn puppies in our litters. We like to say "a well balanced dog has titles at both ends! You are welcome to look up their test results on the OFA website, or ask us for copies. Although our dogs are show dogs, it cannot be overstated that they are much loved pets who sit on the couch with us, walk on the beach with us and sleep in bed with us every night. We think that this creates such a special bond and is what makes us such great partners in the show ring. Want to learn more about our beloved French Bulldogs? Visit with us here on our website and you will find that each of our dogs has their own distinct personality! Watch this page for upcoming litter announcements as well. We do breed very selectively so we do not have puppies frequently however, we do maintain a waiting list for those who are interested in a North Point pup. You can also feel free to visit with us at dog shows or, reach out and we will be happy to introduce you! But please be forewarned, to meet a frenchie is to fall in love! Contact Us. Welcoming a new puppy into your home is an exciting time filled with joy, cuddles, and a few inevitable challenges. One of the most common questions new puppy owners ask is, "When can puppies go outside? Table of Contents Easiest Dog to Take Care of: Top 10 Breeds for a Happy Home Do you ever dream about having a furry best friend who loves to play fetch, gives the warmest cuddles, and greets you with the happiest tail wags every time you come home? A friend who is not just any dog, but the easiest dog to take care of? We know, it sounds like a dream come true, right? But we also understand that bringing a new puppy home is a big step. It's like adding a new member to your family, a little brother or sister.All French Bulldog Insights French Bulldog Breed Info If you're seeking an adorable companion with a charmingly squashed face, an easygoing personality, and a distinct penchant for lounging on the couch, the French Bulldog could just be your perfect match. With their signature bat ears and expressive eyes, French Bulldogs, or "Frenchies" as they are lovingly known, have captured the hearts of many dog lovers around the globe, consistently ranking among the most popular breeds. Renowned for their easy maintenance and the ability to thrive in apartment living, French Bulldogs are a city dweller's delight. Their small size, typically weighing under 28 pounds, makes them perfectly suited to compact urban spaces. However, their charming personalities and heartwarming companionship are universally loved, irrespective of city or countryside living. This breed's laid-back nature does not mean they're devoid of fun and play. On the contrary, French Bulldogs can be quite playful and are known for their often comical and entertaining antics, which only further endears them to their owners. Their affectionate demeanor, combined with a remarkably low barking tendency, makes them a joy to have around the house. French Bulldogs are sturdy, compact, and stocky, with a powerful muscular build that contradicts their small size. They have a smooth coat that comes in a variety of colors, from fawn and brindle to white and grey. Their facial expressions are human-like, and they're known to "talk" using a complex system of yawns, yips, and gargles. However, owning a French Bulldog does come with responsibilities. Their brachycephalic short-nosed nature makes them prone to certain health issues and less tolerant of extreme temperatures. Despite their muscular appearance, they are not the best swimmers, and care should be taken around bodies of water.

Green Valley Kennel is situated in the countryside of Co. Limerick, Ireland. Our primary service is to deliver your dog to you safely in Scotland. Adorable, compact and full of fun. A playful companion with a charming disposition. Learn More about the Cavachon breed and view available pups. Golden Retriever The Golden Retriever is one of the most popular dog breeds. Learn More about the Golden Retriever breed and view available pups. Friendly, intelligent and energetic making a great family dog that will want to be involved in all your daily activities. Learn More about the Golden Cocker Retriever breed and view available pups. It was a really lovely place when I went there, I was shown around the entire kennels and all the doggies, both Mammies and Daddies were happy, free and well looked after! Margaret was a typical Irish Mammy type lady who was so nice and all I can say is that they gave me a masterpiece of a dog and for that I will be forever grateful and I doubt things have changed!! We look after all documentation, flights, injections and all the requirements needed to deliver you a healthy happy puppy. We work with a pet transport company that allows us access to live flights and keeps us up to date on new regulations. We work with the department of agriculture to ensure documentation is accepted upon entry. Please contact us for further information. Buying A Puppy Buying A Puppy Buying a Golden Retriever Puppy should be an enjoyable and exciting experience for you and your family; however there are many things that should be considered before you proceed. The Golden Retriever Club of Scotland offers advice by means of our puppy co-ordinator, who will liase with respectable breeders who are members of the Club, as to when they have puppies available form a litter. It is worth noting that most puppies are spoken for before they are born — highlighting the desire for potential owners who have done their homework and want to be as sure as anyone can be, that the puppy they are waiting for will be born healthy, free of genetic disorders and will be raised in a loving and careful home. Please be aware that there are elaborate scams to encourage you to buy a puppy at a lower price, and to make you commit your hard earned money in a very swift manner. If you are in doubt as to the health aspects of the puppy you are considering — please ask one of the Committee members who will assist you to establish the truth. We are very happy to encourage you to exercise great care in selecting a good breeder. There may be many reasons why you are considering a Golden Retriever, you may be looking for a pet that is good with children, be interested in a dog for showing or working and hopefully the club will be able to guide you through this process. Before you buy, the Golden Retriever Club of Scotland suggests that you consider why you want a dog. Remember a Golden Retriever has a life expectancy of anything from 12 to 16 years so this is a long term commitment for yourself and the family. Here are some questions to ask yourself before you look at any pups. Is someone around during the day? A young puppy needs company. He is inquisitive and willing to play and learn. He will naturally want to chew. He will have to start toilet training right away. This means taking him out when he wakes and after each meal. It will be to your advantage if he is encouraged to use a particular area of garden to do his business. Without attention it will be virtually impossible to toilet train, and a puppy or indeed an older dog will become stressed and destructive if left alone for long periods. Is your garden secure? It is so important that your garden has adequate fencing. A young puppy is naturally curious and will explore any hole or gap he can find. Put your mind at rest and have this checked out. Remember some plants and daffodil bulbs are poisonous so make sure that these are out of reach. Are the children old enough to take responsibility of a dog? Although Golden Retrievers make excellent family pets, and chosen with care from the right breeder, will be happy with young children, the younger members must realise that the puppy is an animal and not a toy. He is a long term commitment and not a whim, so discuss this thoroughly before you go to view a litter. A good breeder will want to meet the whole family and make any suggestions required to help you. Do you have a good veterinary practice in your area? Unfortunately the cost of your puppy does not stop after the initial purchase price! Your breeder will probably have had the litter checked by their vet and micro chipped before they leave for their new homes, but will advise you to take him along to your vet to have him checked again shortly after bringing him home. Make contact with your vet before purchasing and ask about their immunisation programme and any other relevant points. Remember a trip to the vet will always cost you money, even if it is just for a yearly check up. Here is some advice that we would strongly recommend you to follow. Go through a Golden Retriever Breed Club. You should find that you will get some sensible friendly advice on what you should look for when you go to view a litter of puppies. They will probably be able to give you contact numbers of breeders. Most clubs will have a list of their members who have litters available. The Golden Retriever Club of Scotland will have this available. Contact the Puppy Register for this information. In these modern days of social media there are Facebook pages that have been set up by responsible breeders, who will only list puppies available from health checked parents. Even in this modern age the very best thing to do is to go to a Golden Retriever Events — a show or a working test, meet the people and talk to them, word of mouth is by far an excellent way to be introduced to your breeder. You may need to put your name on a list for a puppy a year in advance of those puppies being born. If you have done your homework, it is well worth the wait. They will and have the right to ask you lots of questions, some which you may feel are perhaps a little probing. This is a good sign — as the Breeder of the puppies they will feel very responsible to be sure their pups go to exceptional homes. The breeder should have hip certificates and up to date eye certificates for both sire and dam of the pups. These certificates are issued when the parents have been submitted for the necessary hip x-rays and eye examinations. They are absolutely essential as it is extremely important that the sire and dam of the litter are sound and have no hereditary conditions that could be passed on to their progeny. No responsible breeder would dream of breeding without them being in place. They will be willing to show you these certificates and explain more about the scheme should you require. If a breeder does not have these or is not prepared to show you them — walk away, no matter how hard that may be. Always see the mother with her puppies. Never let a breeder bring a puppy to you. You should, if possible, see the whole litter. The mother should be a happy outgoing bitch. The area where the pups are should be clean and well managed. Puppies that have been brought up in a clean environment will be so much easier to toilet train. Do not accept any excuse that the mother is out for a walk, round at her Grannies, or any other lame excuse — this is genuinely a red flag. Responsible breeders will want you to meet the mother of the puppies and they will want to see how you interact with her. A five generation pedigree, diet sheet and Kennel Club Registration Certificate should always be given to you when purchasing your puppy. A good breeder will spend time answering questions. Remember, breeders started from a first puppy themselves so will never think a question is silly and would rather you asked than go away and worry. They will also give you advice on any particular interests you may have such as showing, working, obedience or agility training, or be able to give you details of the best person to get advice from. Most importantly they will help you with advice on socialising. A lot of this will have been attended to long before the puppy leaves the litter. This is so important and establishes the bond between dog and human. Remember dogs are pack animals so have to be taught right away, that people are their friends and part of their world. Golden Retrievers are wonderful dogs with so much to offer, your life will never be the same again when you bring a Golden in to share it with you. Choose well and enjoy your new puppy.

As a family-owned Goldendoodle breeder based in Burlington, North Carolina, we take great pride in raising our puppies right in the comfort of our own home. Our mission is to provide families with the perfect companion in the form of a healthy, happy, and well-socialized Goldendoodle puppy. Our Goldendoodles are carefully bred from health-tested parents to ensure that your new furry family member is healthy and happy. As a Goldendoodle breeder, we take pride in raising the best quality Goldendoodles with excellent health, great temperaments, and beautiful coats. Our puppies come with a lifetime health guarantee and support, and we're always here to answer any questions you may have. We provide a loving home environment for our puppies and ensure they are well-socialized with people and other pets. In addition, we are pleased to offer delivery of our Goldendoodle puppies within the United States. We understand that it can be difficult to travel long distances to pick up your new puppy, so we offer a convenient delivery service to bring your new furry family member right to your doorstep. Thank you for considering Doodles of NC for your next furry family member. We look forward to helping you find the best Goldendoodle to join your family! Why do we exclusively offer Goldendoodle puppies for sale? Their loyalty, affection and non-aggressive temperament make them great family dogs - especially families with children. With our dedication to raise the puppies in our personal home, the F-1B Goldendoodles are the perfect breed to trust around our two young daughters. What are F-1B Goldendoodles? An F-1B Goldendoodle has become very popular and is known for its friendly, loving nature paired with its hypoallergenic fur. The resulting dog has the wonderful disposition of a Golden Retriever with the almost non-existent shedding of the Poodle. Can I track my puppy's progress? Our staff is happy to hear your concerns and answer any questions you have along the way. What happens after my puppy comes home? Many people love the idea of having a dog but lack the time or knowledge to train one properly. You can discuss what specific areas you need to focus on, and your trainer will help you with any concerns you have at the time. What is the best breed for me? You need to take your lifestyle, environment, household needs and where you live into account when choosing a dog. If you or someone in your family has allergies, selecting a hypoallergenic breed allows you to have a pet without affecting that person. Here are the people who allow us to serve our customers so well. Eric As head of customer service, Eric is in charge of your customer experience, from the selection of your puppy to a successful arrival at your home. They can give you all the information and guidance you need to prepare for your life with a new dog and are happy to answer your questions. Contact Us Giving Back to the Community We contribute regularly to three charities that provide support and assistance to impoverished mothers and children around the globe. Help us make a difference for those around the world who need our help. You just need to provide a deposit to reserve your puppy. You can choose from two training programs. Three-Month Training Program At eight weeks old, our trainer will take your puppy into their home and begin its training. Our professional trainer will focus on rewarding positive behaviors, house training, basic obedience and correcting problem behavior. Five-Month Training Program The Five-Month Training program gives our trainer another two months to focus on socialization, distraction work and daily routines. Your puppy will be exposed to many new people and dogs and learn how to remain obedient while distracted. Fully Trained Hypoallergenic Puppies in North Carolina Contact us today to learn more and review our selection of hypoallergenic puppies available in North Carolina. Please fill out the form below for more info on adopting a new puppy. Contact Us. However, they do not accept surrendered dogs. They rescue different breeds of dogs, including Mini Goldendoodles. They rescue dogs from local shelters and puppy mills. If you are looking for a good Mini Goldendoodle rescue in North Carolina, this dog rescue could be the right place. If you visit their website, you will come across a step-by-step process of how they operate: They visit different shelters, and select dogs that they think will have a good chance of finding a new home. Their transport team will then go to the site and safely transport the pet to Wake Forest, where their sheltering facility is located. All dogs are tested for heartworm, neutered, and spayed. If they are found with heartworm, they will be offered the necessary treatment. Dogs are given an opportunity to socialize and receive medical attention if needed. The dogs are adopted through an adoption process. Potential adopters will be required to visit the farm to meet the dog they want. There will be a post-adoption visit in which both the dog and pet parents have adjusted well. If you adopt a Mini Goldendoodle from Saving Grace Animals For Adoption, they will educate you on how you can take care of your furry friend. Their dogs come with a health guarantee. After a few days, you can return a dog if you feel it is not what you are looking for. In addition, they will provide you with all the necessary information about the dog as well as offer medical support. You can contact them or visit their website to check out some of the available Mini Goldendoodles. However, with this guide and some research, you can be sure of finding a quality Mini Goldendoodle today. Before visiting any dog rescue, you should check out their adoptable dogs as well as their adoption requirement. The dog rescues on our list may not have a Mini Goldendoodle at the moment. However, you should keep checking their website as most of them update their adoption list every week. If you have any questions, you should contact them. You should consider reputable dog rescues that can be trusted. Conclusion If you are looking for a good Mini Goldendoodle rescue in North Carolina, there you have a list to choose from. These rescues will ensure your dream of keeping a quality Mini Goldendoodle. Visit one of them today to add an adorable canine friend to your family. Sharing is caring! Buying a dog is much more expensive than adopting one. There are a lot of things that you would find beneficial and rewarding if you would choose adoption than buying. There is a lot of Goldendoodle rescues that are not reputable. We can help you with that. Here are some of the qualities you can look for to determine if a Goldendoodle rescue is reputable. A lot of trustworthy rescues will be into charities and giving help and support. If the volunteers and employees are great people, you will know that it is a great rescue. The Rescue Offers Adoption Events. A good rescue is very active in terms of programs. You can tell if a rescue is good if they offer a lot of events focused on adoption. You can also check if the rescue is attending a lot of adoption events too, aside from making their own The Rescue Is Responsive When we say responsive, the rescue is prompt in responding to queries. If the rescue is always available on the phone and is patient in delivering your answers, that is also a good sign for a rescue. The rescue is willing to answer your questions about their background and how they take care of their dogs. The Rescue Is Clean This is a basic thing to notice because cleanliness is a must everywhere, and it is essential in rescue and shelters. Having a dirty facility can cause harm to the dogs. You can also check if the animals are good and healthy. The rescue must follow the policies regarding what the local government says in running a rescue. If a rescue is good and reputable, you will hear of it. People will talk and share their good reputation and their responsible staff and volunteers. Picking a Goldendoodle rescue can be more challenging than you thought it might be. There can be a lot of things that you will encounter after months of spending time with your Goldendoodle. Here are some things you can look for if you are choosing a good rescue Goldendoodle. Many rescue dogs have trouble trusting and are very shy because of the trauma they have experienced. It would be best if you pick a dog that is still trustworthy and open with you. Pick a Goldendoodle that is friendly and does not shy away from you. Look for any signs of trauma and aggression. An aggressive one may not be suitable for you, especially if you have kids in your home. You can even walk the dog outside if they would allow it. This way, you can tell if the Goldendoodle has terrible habits and temperaments. Summary You can find a Goldendoodle rescue but finding a reputable rescue is another issue. Adopting a dog comes with commitment and responsibility. The list provided above will be able to save you time and effort. You can find all Goldendoodle rescues in North Carolina in just minutes! In line with this, it is also essential to know what you should consider in picking the right Goldendoodle shelters and Goldendoodle puppies. If you adopt and rehome a Goldendoodle, it may not be easy but do not worry. You have this list and guide to help you in finding the right Goldendoodle for you. Other States.

Both parents come from a 5-generation pedigree. Mother is IKC registered. Grandparents and great grandparents are field trial champions. Father is a strong, chunky Labrador with an excellent breeding background, he was never registered but both grandparents were IKC reg. Both mother and father are cherished family pets, live together and can be seen. Parents are gentle natured, excellent with kids and have great personalities. Owners are vets themselves. This is our first and last litter as we are not breeders. We wanted to keep a line from both parents which was the motivation to have a litter. Our beautiful puppies are happy, healthy, and very confident. They have a fantastic temperament. Pups have been raised in our family home ensuring they have been well socialised with kids and other animals such as cats. These confident puppies are extremely intelligent and will be easy to train! They are already semi-toilet trained and have great re-call. Puppies are very affectionate and loved by all the family hence we are only looking for suitable home as a family pet or loyal companion. All pups are - Vet health checked - Vaccinated - Microchipped - Wormed at 2,4,6 and 8 weeks - Treated for fleas and mites. Pups will be ready to go to their forever homes from September 17th. For more information or to arrange to view the puppies please call or email me on or megandoherty00 gmail. If I do not answer please leave a message and I will get back to you. Thank you! See our Privacy Notice Dozens of Labrador puppies have arrived at an animal rescue centre in one week and are now looking for forever homes. Many Tears Animal Rescue in Cefneithin, Carmarthenshire, welcomed the 57 dogs who were to become working service animals seeking illegal drugs and explosives. Instead, the enthusiastic and clever dogs now need to find their forever homes. As reported by WalesOnline , Many Tears owner Sylvia Van Atta said: "They all came from somebody with a contract to look after dogs going to be trained as bomb or drug dogs. They are dogs that want to be doing something. So they are ok to be pets, but they need someone who will throw balls, who will stimulate them. Here are some of the bouncy 57 Labradors at Many Tears who are now seeking forever homes Image: Many Tears Animal Rescue Many Tears is also inviting people to contribute towards the cost of their care. Anyone wanting to meet the labs can do so during the centre's showarounds on weekdays at midday, and at 11am on weekends. They will all be available for adoption at the Many Tears website. For more stories where you live visit InYourArea. Read More. Please contact us for further information. Copperbirch Labrador Puppies Copperbirch Labradors has carefully researched and developed a genetically studied line breeding programme, using only the Top British and Irish Working Field Trial Lines to produce the very best Labrador puppies. As we usually keep a puppy or two from each of our litters our aim is to breed Labrador puppies with a Calm Temperament and the exceptional Working and Hunting capabilities required to Field Trial competitively. However these clever Labrador Puppies make beautiful, easily trained loyal companions and the most perfect loving family pets, as well as Field Trial and Hunting dogs with Champion qualities. We use only proven Field Trial Lines, always with a view to producing sound , healthy Labrador Puppies. Daily Handling Programme All our Copperbirch Litters are born indoors in our home and spend the whole time with our family. They are fully socialised are happy, confident and content before leaving us and going to their new homes. As a rule we do not allow our puppies to leave before they are 8 weeks old. What We Provide Your new Copperbirch Puppy will be micro-chipped and comes with a puppy pack, a sales contract, kennel club registration papers, a five generation pedigree, a full veterinary health check along with details on de-fleaing and de-worming and as well as this you will have 5 weeks free insurance. Copperbirch Family Once you welcome a Copperbirch puppy into your life you immediately become a member of our extended Copperbirch family. We are available to assist with the care of your puppy throughout its lifetime.

Loyal and friendly whilst exhibiting great strength, energy and enthusiasm. A well defined furrow runs from the top of the skull to the occiput. Colour from light to dark brown with black pigmented rims. From the tip of the nose to the stop should not exceed one third of the distance from the nose tip to the occiput. Semi-pendulous flews. Set high and wide and to the back outer edge of the skull. Large, broad nose in relation to muzzle width. Colour is black. A little smaller than the head at junction and widening to point of shoulders. Loose from jaw to chest with a double dewlap. Moderately angulated on the shoulder blade, roughly equal to the upper foreleg in length. Elbows neither in nor out and forelegs set straight with strong pasterns and of medium bone. Hind legs should be straight, set sapart and parallel when viewed from rear with moderate angulation. Sturdy, muscular and powerful. Deep, wide chest with muscular brisket and well sprung ribs. Distinct tuck between hindquarters and ribs. Dip behind the withers and topline rises over loin with the appearance of a slight roach. The tail will be set as an extension of the topline, tapering to a point. Relaxed, the tail is carried low, when mobile it is carried level with the back. When excited, the dog may raise the tail in an upright position but not curled over the back. Viewed from either front or rear, the legs do not turn in or out, neither do the feet interfere with one another. No obvious pounding should be seen from the side with front legs reaching out smoothly. The breed has a short coat which is of medium density and close. Shades of colours include red brindle, fawn brindle, brown brindle and grey brindle, either pied or solid. Solid colours include red, black, fawn, white. Females should be 22 to 31 kilos and 40 to 48 centimetres at the withers. Neither should appear fat. Weight of both are proportionate to height. Tail — Kinked, docked, bobbed or screw tail. Males lacking two fully descended normal testicles. Select Options The Olde English Bulldogge is a renewed breed that is similar to Bulldogs of the 18th century, but with non-aggressive temper of today's English Bulldog. OEB of the 20th century is intended not for baiting as its ancestors. This Old Bulldog brings its owners good. The dog is an excellent companion, friend, children's defender, guardian and watchdog. Olde English Bulldogge is a perfect partner for sport - jogging and bikejoring. It is also good at agility and springpole. Present-day Bulldogge has some features of its old folks that is why the dog needs serious training and discipline from the early puppyhood, but without power and rudeness using. If your Bully chews everything, don't scold it, get enough Bulldog chew toys instead. The dog needs also long walks and active games. Arm yourself with patience and your Bulldogge with quality equipment and start training sessions today to have a well-mannered and obedient dog tomorrow! Some info about our products. They are very popular among handlers and professional trainers because of highest possible security, functionality, comfort and modern design. Every Old English Bulldog harness in our dog shop is made according to the breed's body structure. Our harnesses are of selected leather and nylon, with or without decor. They are suitable for puppies, young and adult Bulldogs. Walking, training, working and sport harnesses. Warm harnesses for cold weather and harnesses for Bulldog support and rehabilitation. Harnesses for pulling and muscles development. You will certainly find the best dog harness for Olde English Bulldog in our store! Our Old English Bulldog collars are made of dog-friendly materials, such as leather, nylon and metal. We offer classic collars and collars of exclusive design and adornment. We also have special behavior correction collars, which are intended for Bulldogs that need more strict obedience training. We have a variety of collars for any taste and budget! Durable, reliable and functional leashes of classic and fashionable design. For one, two or even three Old English Bulldogs! Made of selected leather, nylon or metal. Sport, show, walking, working and training models. Exclusive muzzles for Olde Bulldogge walking, training, work and behavior correction. Metal, leather and nylon muzzles. Absolutely safe. Maximum comfortable. Produced according to Bulldog's muzzle structure. No discomfort. Allow the dog feel free being muzzled! We also have a wide choice of toys for Olde English Bulldogge training, mental and physical development, oral care and entertaining. Every toy is super solid, dog-friendly and intended for long-term use. If you're going to train your Bulldog, then pay attention to our training equipment. Bite tugs of genuine leather, jute, French Linen and fire hose. Bite sleeves, clickers, whistles, dumbbells and other training tools for dogs. We also have professional bite ant training suits for trainers. Choose our grooming accessories to take care of your Bulldog's coat and nails. Let your Bully look always well-groomed with our specialized tools! There are 3 steps of successful online purchasing: 1. Measure your Olde English Bulldogge according to the scheme you can see in every dog product. Got the measurements? Fill them in the attributes at the top of the product page. You can always contact us via our e-mail info english-bulldog-dog-breed-store. Our customer support will answer all your questions, will help you to choose the most suitable product for the dog and will make an exchange if needed! Received my harness today! Fits Winston perfectly! I will be honest with you, it was hard parting with so much money for a harness but it is worth every penny! Very happy customer. From: Mike, UK This dog harness is the 4th we've ordered from you, there is no finer anywhere!!! From: Iris, Germany Thank you for your excellent service. Guys, you're at a high level. The harness was delivered and I'm very happy! From: Mark, Netherlands. The Bull-Dog. Breeding[ edit ] Old English Bulldog. Paris, Historians are fairly confident that the Old English Bulldog is derived from ancient war dogs , such as the old Mastiff or the extinct Alaunt dog. Depictions in old prints show that the variety was without doubt a small Mastiff with a comparatively long head. The word 'Mastiff' was eventually dropped when describing these smaller Mastiffs, as the Mastiff proper was found too slow for bull-baiting. Description[ edit ] Two other recognized members of the breed can be seen in the painting Crib and Rosa , with Rosa exemplifying the form and size of the ideal type of Old English Bulldog, albeit deficient in wrinkles about the head and neck and in substance of bone in the limbs. A dog of particular form, remarkable for his courage. The bull-dog is low in stature, deep-chested, and strongly made about the shoulders and thighs, the muscles of both of which are extremely developed. His head is broad, his nose short, and the under jaw projects beyond the upper, which gives him a fierce and disagreeable aspect. His eyes are distant and prominent, and have a peculiar suspicious-like leer, which, with the distension of his nostrils, gives him also a contemptuous look; and from his teeth being always seen, he has the constant appearance of grinning, while he is perfectly placid. He is the most ferocious and unrelenting of the canine tribe, and may be considered courageous beyond every other creature in the world, for he will attack any animal, whatever be his magnitude. The internal changes which determine the external characters of this dog, consist in a great development of the frontal sinuses, a development which elevates the bones of the forehead above the nose, and draws the cerebral cavity in the same direction. But the most important quality, and that, perhaps, which causes all the others, although we cannot perceive the connexion, is the diminution of the brain. The cerebral capacity of the bull-dog is sensibly smaller than in any other race; and it is doubtless to the decrease of the encephalon that we must attribute its inferiority to all others in every thing relating to intelligence. The bull-dog is scarcely capable of any education, and is fitted for nothing but combat and ferocity. This animal takes his name from his having been employed, in former times, in assaulting the bull, and he is used for the same purpose at the present day, in those districts where this brutal amusement is still practised. Nothing can exceed the fury with which the bull-dog falls upon all other animals, and the invincible obstinacy with which he maintains his hold. In attacking the bull, he always assails him in front, and generally fastens upon his lip, tongue, or eye, where he holds and hangs on, in spite of the most desperate efforts of the other to free himself from his antagonist, which affords ample proof of the amazing strength and power of this animal. Whenever a bull-dog attacks any of the extremities of the body, it is invariably considered a mark of his degeneracy from the original purity of blood. Puppies will assail a bull, and thereby give a decided proof of their breed, when only six months old; and, if permitted, will rather suffer themselves to be destroyed than relinquish the contest. Although this trial is sometimes made with the whelps of a particular litter, to demonstrate the purity of their descent, and to prove that there has been no improper cross by which the future fame of their posterity may be affected, yet they are seldom entered in a regular ring until from fifteen to eighteen months old. But their ligaments cannot be considered as at their full strength until they are at least two years old. Indeed, amateurs say, that they are not at their prime until they have attained four or five years of age. In various districts of England this breed is still preserved in its native purity, by that class of people who delight in bullbaiting and fighting of dogs; both of which amusements, alike inhuman, are now happily on the decline. Three dogs from the Duke of Hamilton 's strain of Old English Bulldog, Wasp, Child, and Billy, were depicted in a painting and recognized as some of the last known members of the breed before it became extinct. Despite the laws making dog fighting illegal, it continued for many years. Breeders determined a cross between the Old English Bulldog and Old English Terrier created a superior fighting dog with increased quickness and dexterity. Main article: English Bulldog Often confused with the Old English Bulldog, the English Bulldog is noted for its sweet disposition; it does not have the speed and agility that were the definitive characteristics of the Old English Bulldog. Ohld ing-glish Bool-dawg Description The Olde English Bulldogge is a muscular, medium sized dog of great strength, stability and athleticism. He is well balanced and proportioned, with no features exaggerated or standing out. He has the appearance of a dog capable of doing his original job, bull baiting. The OEB head is prominent and dramatic. The cheeks are large, well developed and display powerful jaw muscles. A slightly wrinkled forehead is acceptable. There is a crease from the stop to the occiput. It has a narrow skull and domed forehead. The muzzle is square, wide and deep, with definite layback. Distance from the tip of the nose to the stop does not exceed one-third of the distance from the tip of the nose to the occiput. Height of the muzzle from the bottom of the chin to the top of the muzzle is equal to or greater than the length of the muzzle, thus producing the deep, square muzzle. There is slight to moderate wrinkle on the muzzle. Flews are semi-pendulous. The bite is undershot and horizontally straight. Lower jawbone is moderately curved from front to back. Eyes are round to almond-shape and medium sized. They are set wide apart, with the outside corner of the eye intersecting with the outside line of the skull and are set low, at the level of the muzzle, where the stop and muzzle intersect. Eye color is brown, with black pigmented eye rims. Canine teeth are large. Broken, chipped or extracted teeth are acceptable. There are 6 corn row teeth between canines. Nostrils are wide with a line running vertically between nostrils from the tip of nose down to the bottom of the upper lip. Nose is large and broad in relationship to the width of the muzzle. Nose color is black. Ears are rose, button or tulip, with rose preferred. They are set high and to the rear of the skull. The ears are positioned as wide as possible on the outside of the skull. They are small to medium in size. Neck is medium length, wide, and slightly arched. It is a little smaller than the head where the two meet, and gets wider from that point to the shoulders. It is slightly loose from jaw to chest, forming a double dewlap. They are broad, heavily muscled and have a separation between shoulder blades. The scapula shoulder blade should be at an approximate degree angle to vertical and form an angle approximately degrees to the humerus forearm. Scapula and humerus should be roughly equal in length. A vertical line drawn from the point of the scapula top to the ground will pass directly through the elbow. The elbows are not turned in or out. The legs are set wide apart, coming straight down from the shoulders. They are straight vertically on inside of legs and well-muscled, giving a bowed appearance of front quarters. The forelegs have medium bone and are in proportion to the body. The pasterns are medium in length. They are straight, strong, flexible and nearly perpendicular to the ground. Body is sturdy and powerful. The length from tip of breastbone to rear thigh is slightly longer than the height from ground to withers. The back is wide and muscular, showing power. Topline has a slight roach or wheel back. There is a fall in the back, to its low spot behind the shoulders. From this point the spine rises to the loin. The high point of the loin is a little bit higher than the shoulders then there is a gentle curve, forming an arch, down to the tail. Loin back of ribcage to hips is muscular, medium in length and slightly arched. The chest is wide and deep with a muscular brisket. Ribs are well sprung and rounded, being at their fullest directly behind the shoulders. Shoulders to forelegs are well muscled. Hips and thighs are strong and muscular. Hind legs are well muscled and slightly longer than the forelegs. In a natural stance they are straight, parallel and set apart when viewed from the rear. Distance between hind legs is less than distance between front legs. Angulation is moderate. Stifles have a gentle convex curve when viewed from the side. Stifle angle roughly matches the angle of the pelvis. Hocks are perpendicular to the ground when viewed from the side and back. They are parallel to each other when viewed from the back. A line drawn from the rear-most part of the buttocks, perpendicular to the ground, should fall to the front of the toes. They are straight when viewed from the front. Rear feet are smaller than front feet. Tail should be set low and tapering from base to end. It can be pump handle or straight, with pump handle being preferred. Tail should reach the hocks or be slightly shorter and carried down or horizontal. Some breeders choose to dock the tail. Coat is short, close and of medium density. It should be shiny, showing good health. Color can be brindle of red, gray, fawn or black; either solid or pied with white. Solid white, fawn, red or black; solid color or pied. Temperament Olde English Bulldogges are docile, but capable and protective, fearless and athletic, fierce-looking, determined and courageous, bold and friendly around their family and friends, but fearless adversaries to anyone who threatens their masters or property. This breed likes to chew and should be supplied with plenty of toys and bones. Nylabones and rubber Kong toys are highly recommended. Rawhides, soft rubber and stuffed toys are unsafe, for they are easily shredded or swallowed whole. Olde English Bulldogges are so eager to please that they may overexert themselves in an effort to do whatever is asked of them. An owner who displays a natural authority toward the dog, socialization and obedience training are important. It is best to channel high energy individuals to some type of work and exercise. The objective in training this dog is to achieve pack leader status. It is a natural instinct for a dog to have an order in its pack. When we humans live with dogs , we become their pack. The entire pack cooperates under a single leader. Lines are clearly defined and rules are set. Because a dog communicates his displeasure with growling and eventually biting, all other humans MUST be higher up in the order than the dog. The humans must be the ones making the decisions, not the dogs. That is the only way your relationship with your dog can be a complete success. This breed tends to drool and slobber. Height, Weight Height: Males 17 - 20 inches 43 - 51 cm Females 16 - 19 inches 40 - 48 kg Weight: Males 60 - 80 pounds 27 - 36 kg Females 50 - 70 pounds 22 - 31 kg Health Problems May be susceptible to bloat —a painful and often fatal condition that can be brought on by too large a quantity of food consumed at one time. As with all large breeds, hip dysplasia sometimes occurs. Breeders are working hard to keep it out of the Olde English Bulldogge; therefore, no dog with bad hips is bred. Living Conditions Olde English Bulldogges will adapt to almost any lifestyle. They should be protected from the extreme cold and heat, although they are not as susceptible as the AKC Bulldog. Exercise This breed needs to be taken on a daily pack walk to satisfy its migration instinct. When properly conditioned they can be active dogs, however, they are equally happy with moderate exercise. They can stay in relatively good shape with good muscle tone with only light exercise. These dogs are naturally slow, and because of their unique structure, they should not be encouraged to jump or engage in strenuous exercise as young pups. This breed is an average shedder. In he became disenchanted with English Bulldogs due to their breeding and breathing problems. David's goal was to produce a dog with the looks of the 18th century bulldog, with the temperament of today's English Bulldogs, yet healthy, without breathing problems, or all the other aliments today's English Bulldogs are prone to. This new breed can now breathe. Cesarean section births are not necessary. Artificial insemination, due to male ineptness and lack of drive, has been replaced by natural ties. Lifespan is over eleven years. All breeding stock has had hip x-rays. No dog with bad hips is bred. David says he is now achieving his goal of producing a Bulldog with the health and temperament to be able to serve people, instead of forcing people to serve him. David Leavitt is breeding them to more of a working lines type dog, while OEBKC is breeding the dogs as more of a family oriented dog. Olde English Bulldogge Guardian Dog Group The goals and purposes of this breed standard include: to furnish guidelines for breeders who wish to maintain the quality of their breed and to improve it; to advance this breed to a state of similarity throughout the world; and to act as a guide for judges. Breeders and judges have the responsibility to avoid any conditions or exaggerations that are detrimental to the health, welfare, essence and soundness of this breed, and must take the responsibility to see that these are not perpetuated. Any departure from the following should be considered a fault, and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog and on the dogs ability to perform its traditional work. Absolute soundness and proper muscle tone is a must. Breeders and judges are advised to always go for healthy and functional moderation, never for exaggeration. History Bulldogs were created for the English sport of bull baiting, practiced from approximately until .By the middle of the s, the sport was no longer legal, and the athletic bulldog quickly began to disappear. Because the bulldog was revived solely for the conformation venue, selective breeding for appearance severely compromised the health and lifespan of this once agile, athletic and happy breed. In a breeding project began using a linebreeding scheme developed by Dr. Fechimer of Ohio State to rapidly achieve a purebred dog. The goal of this project was to return the bulldog to the appearance of the Regency-Period bulldog, now named the Olde English Bulldogge OEB to clearly differentiate the new breed from the modern English Bulldog. Todays Olde English Bulldogge matches the looks of the bull baiting dog of the early s. They are, first and foremost, excellent companions, while also possessing the drive, temperament and agility to perform in numerous working venues as well as being service dogs. The revival of a healthy dog with the longevity to live well into its teens is a primary goal. General Appearance The Olde English Bulldogge is a muscular, medium sized dog of great strength, and possessed of fluid, agile movement. He is well balanced and proportioned, while appearing capable of performing without any breathing restrictions in either heat or in cold. Disqualifications: Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchid. Characteristics The disposition of the Olde English Bulldogge is confident, friendly and alert. An OEB should be an animated and expressive dog, both in and out of the show ring. Fault: Shyness in a mature dog. Disqualification: Viciousness or extreme shyness. Head Serious Faults: Excessive wrinkle, lack of pigment around eyes, nose or mouth. There is a defined furrow from the stop to the occiput. Serious Faults: Narrow skull; domed forehead. Distance from the tip of the nose to the stop does not exceed one-third of the distance from the tip of the nose to the occiput. Flews are semi-pendulous. Lower jawbone is moderately curved from front to back. Broken, chipped or extracted teeth are not to be faulted. Exposed canine teeth are to be faulted. Disqualifications: Wry jaw; overbite. NOSE Nostrils are wide, with a line running vertically between nostrils from the tip of nose down to the bottom of the upper lip. Nose is large and broad in relationship to the width of the muzzle. Nose color is black. Serious Fault: Slit nostrils. Disqualification: Any color nose other than black. EYES Eyes are medium in size and almond shaped. They are set wide and low, level with the top of the muzzle. Color is dark to light brown, with black pigmented eye rims. Disqualifications: Any eye color other than brown; wall eyes; crossed eyes. EARS Ears are rose, button or tulip. Rose is preferred. They are set high, wide and to the back outer edge of the skull. The ears are small in size. Neck The neck is medium length, wide, and slightly arched. It is slightly smaller than the head at their junction, and widens to point of the shoulders. Loose from jaw to chest, forming a double dewlap. Forequarters Shoulders are broad, heavily muscled and have a separation between the shoulder blades. Moderate angulation of the shoulder blade, which should also be roughly equal in length to the upper foreleg. Body Sturdy, powerful and slightly rectangular when viewed from the side. Chest is wide and deep, with a muscular brisket, and ribs well-sprung. There should be a distinct tuck between ribs and hindquarters. There is a dip behind the withers; topline rises over the loin with the appearance of a slight roach. Faults: Narrow rib cage. Hindquarters Hind legs are well muscled and have the appearance of being slightly longer than the forelegs. Viewed from the rear, the hind legs should be straight, parallel and set apart. Angulation is moderate. Fault: Cow-hocked or bow-hocked. Feet are strong and rounded, with well-arched toes. Faults: Flat feet or splayed toes. Tail A full tail is preferred. The characteristic tail is often referred to as a crank or pump handle tail. Straight tails are also acceptable. The tail is set on as a natural extension of the topline, and tapers to a point. When the dog is relaxed, the tail is carried low and extends approximately to the hock. When the dog is moving, the tail is carried level with the back. When the dog is excited, the tail may be carried in a raised, upright position challenge tail , but never curled over the back gay tail. A docked tail is acceptable, but not preferred. Faults: Tail curling degrees or carried up over the back. Disqualifications: Natural bob tail. Screw tail. Kinked tail a tail with one or more sharp bends. Coat Coat is short, close and of medium density. It should be shiny, showing good health. Faults: Fringe, feather or curl in the coat. Color Accepted color patterns include brindle, and solid colors, with or without white. Brindle is defined as a fine streaked or striped effect or pattern of black or tan hairs with hairs of a lighter or darker background color. Shades of colors accepted include red brindle, fawn brindle, brown brindle, and grey brindle; either solid or pied. Accepted solid colors include white, fawn, red or black; with or without white. Disqualifications: Albinism. Gait At a trot, the gait is smooth, powerful, energetic and confident. A slight roll to the gait should not be faulted. Footfalls approach the centerline as trotting speed increases. When viewed from the front or rear, the legs turn neither in nor out, nor do feet cross or interfere with each other. From the side, the front legs should reach out smoothly with no obvious pounding. Height And Weight Overall balance is never to be sacrificed in favor of size. Dogs should be 60 to 80 pounds, and 17 to 20 inches at the withers. Bitches should be 50 to 70 pounds, and 16 to 19 inches at the withers. Neither dog nor bitch appears fat. Measurements apply at age 2 or older. Weight of both dog and bitch should be proportionate to height. Disqualifications A dog with a Disqualification must not be considered for placement in a conformation event, and must be reported to UKC. Unilateral or bilateral cryptorchid.

Havapoo vs Shih Poo Comparison The Havapoo and the Shih Poo are two fantastic doodle dogs that know no limit when it comes to loving their humans. They are sweet, cuddly, and playful, and they love being with their people more than anything else. Both of these small doodle breeds are renowned for their intelligence, toy-like appearance, and darling nature. If your dream is to be the pet parent of a gorgeous bundle of joy, one that will impress you with.Welcome to the exciting world of doodle puppies! If you're considering adding a new fur baby family member, you're in for a treat. Doodle puppies are simply amazing. They are friendly, loving, and playful dogs that are perfect for families with children. With so many different types of doodle breeds available, one more adorable than the next it can be tough to decide which one is right for you. But don't worry, we're here to help! Cute and cuddly, clever and attentive, these adorable pups make wonderful family companion pets. Shih Poo puppies are adorable, joyful little teddy bears who love to play and cuddle. Precious, fluffy and small, Shih Poos have an average weight between 8 and 18 pounds with an average height between 8 to 17 inches. The following pictures are examples of our past Shihpoo pups, they are not for sale. What is a Shihpoo? The Shihpoo is a mixed breed dog, generally a cross between a Toy Poodle and a Shih-tzu. The Shihpoo coat is always delightfully soft and can be either straight or a bit curly though never quite as curly as a Toy Poodle. Shihpoos can be any color, including black, black and white, gold and white, gold and black, brindle. Temperament Mari May Shihpoo dogs are very intelligent, warm natured, extremely loving, affectionate and easy to train. Their parents are non-terrier types which gives the Shihpoo a gentle, self-content, non nervous personality. They love people especially children! Mari May Shihpoos make excellent lap dogs. Delightful, very amusing and extremely clever, our Shihpoos are energetic, affectionate, playful and alert. Shihpoos make great companions and family pets. A Shihpoo dog is usually a cross between a Shihtzu and a Toy Poodle. The best way to determine the temperament of a Shihpoo is to look up both breeds and know that you can have a mix of any of the characteristics or traits. Height and Weight This widely depends on the size of the parents, and even grandparents. Mari-May Shih-poos are the result of the careful selection of both parents after a complete evaluation of health and temperament. Our Shih-poo parents are always small usually between 6 and 8 pounds. Our pups can range anywhere between 6 and 13 pounds and we do occasionally have very tiny tea-cup and Imperial sizes, under 6 pounds. Health Concerns Unknown as no research as been preformed on this mix, however mix breeds tend to be healthier than pure breeds, as the breeding lines are wider spread and there is limited opportunity for inbreeding. At Mari-May Kennels, there are no inbreeding practices. Our extensive experience indicates that Shih-poos in our breeding lines are vigorous in health and long lived. Exercise Shih-poos enjoy a daily walk, and love play sessions off the leash. Life Expectancy About 15 years or more. A natural, whole foods diet greatly extends the life of a Shih-poo. Grooming Shih-poos should be brushed weekly and clipped every 6 to 12 weeks. Keep theiur nails trimmed. Trim hair around bottom and eyes as needed. Shih-poos do not shed and they make a good choice for allergy sufferers. Group Companion The Mari-May Difference Mari-May Shih-poo puppies are the result of a very careful breeding program that considers not only the outstanding health of both parents but their exceptional personalities as well. This helps ensure that our Shih-poo pups are gentle, extremely social, sound minded and non agressive - wonderful family dogs in every way! Mari-May puppies are raised in an educationally enriching environment. Our weaning process is carefully planned to minimize separation anxiety. We firmly believe in the positive benefits of constant association between mothers and pups and wean much later than most dog breeders. All pups are weaned onto an exceptionally excellent diet of natural whole foods to give them the most healthy start possible. We believe in the careful socialization of each Shih-poo pup. Our special environmentally controled nursery features many extras including classical music! Mari-May Shih-poo pups are started in our special early Puppy-Kindergarten program before they leave for their new homes. Early training includes collar and leash conditioning, crate training, introduction to other types of animals including cats and much, much more. The Mari-May Code of Ethics is a very high standard which encompasses our entire breeding program and the dogs and puppies we sell. We believe in the integrity of the work we do and know that our ethical commitment is important to our customers, our dogs and our pups. The Shih poo is one of many named Poodle crossbreeds, bred in an attempt to combine the characteristics of the Poodle, such as its high intelligence and low-shed coat, with the desirable traits of another breedin this case, the Shih Tzu. Some Shih-poos may have a longer, more Poodle-like muzzle than their Shih-Tzu parent, alleviating many breathing problems that Shih-Tzus can experience, such as Brachycephalic syndrome. How big is a Shih Poo? The size varies, and depends on whether the Poodle parent is of the teacup, miniature, or standard breed. Typically, a shih-tzu and a miniature poodle are chosen for the parents, which results in average adult weights of pounds. A shih-tzu and standard Poodle mix is extremely uncommon. Shih-poos come in a wide variety of colors, such as all black, all white, cream, sable, and any mix and combination there of. What temperament does a Shih Poo have? Shih-Poos are playful and energetic dogs. They love to chase after balls, play with squeaky toys or drag stuffed animals around the house with them. Generally, the Shih-Poo makes a great playmate for older, respectful children but wont tolerate harsh handling or hair pulling. Because the Shih-Poo is a crossbreed, some are accepting and affectionate toward strangers while others are reserved or shy around them. They love to cuddle with their owners and expect to sleep in bed with them at night. How much exercise does a Shih Poo need? Although energetic, the Shih-Poo doesnt require a lot of vigorous exercise. Short but brisk walks in the morning and evening is all that is necessary to keep this spunky little guy fit. He will happily run around the home playing with a ball or other toys. Romping and playing in a grassy backyard with children or racing around a dog park with his canine pals is also appreciated by the Shih-Poo. This is not a hybrid breed that will enjoy jogging or hiking with his owners. Think a Shih Poo puppy might be right for you? Check out our available puppies page to see our Shih poos for sale! Latest Posts.