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Stool that contains worms, blood, or mucus Coughing in the case of severe roundworm infection and, less commonly, lungworm infection Many of these symptoms can indicate other health problems like parvo in puppies with the exception of worms in poop , so you should always consult your veterinarian if you notice any red flags. Are puppy worms contagious to humans? Many worms commonly found in puppies are zoonotic, meaning they are transmissable between animals and people. If your puppy has worms and passed them onto you, it can cause diarrhea, intestinal pain, and secondary health problems in the respiratory, digestive, or cardiovascular systems. Certain people are at increased risk of infection by a contagious puppy than others, specifically: children, seniors, pregnant women, diabetics, cancer patients, and anyone with a compromised immune system. In addition to the worms people can get from puppies — including roundworm, tapeworm, and hookworm — there are other zoonotic puppy parasites you should be aware of like Lyme disease in dogs caused by ticks, as well as Giardiasis from giardia in dogs. The good news is that you can avoid sharing a zoonotic infection with your pet by following your vet's recommended deworming schedule, puppy vaccines, and parasite preventatives. When to deworm puppies Puppies should be dewormed every 2 weeks until they are 8 weeks-old, then again at 6 months-old. At that point, you can switch to an adult deworming schedule for dogs, which typically consists of a worming treatment every 6 months. However, you should onsider using a preventative therapy to defend your pet from an infestation, as parasites have high rates of re-infection after entering the bloodstream. It's best to begin a worming treatment before eggs laid by transplacental parasites pass through the stool. Therefore, most vets recommend starting a puppy deworming schedule as early as 2 weeks-old. Deworming Schedule For Puppies A typical puppy deworming schedule is administered by a veterinarian at 2, 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age, then again near the 6-month mark. How to deworm a puppy Deworming treatments are easy and effective to use. The typical treatment protocol is for a veterinarian to provide or supervise the puppy wormer administration for days and then repeat in weeks. The repeated dosing is used to kill the parasites that were still larvae or eggs during the first treatment but have since developed into adults. Be sure to speak to your veterinarian for a puppy wormer prescription; it is not recommended to buy over-the-counter wormers due to inefficient active ingredients and improper dosages. During your first vet visit , the veterinarian should examine your puppy's poop for the presence of worms and determine how much wormer to prescribe and on what schedule. How to administer puppy wormer There are many different ways to give your puppy a deworming treatment. Broad-spectrum formulas are available by prescription as well as over-the-counter, though they are not recommended. Dewormer can be administered as oral medication chewable dog treats, pills, liquid, pastes, and food additives or injectable shot administered by a licensed veterinarian. Can I deworm a puppy naturally at home? You need a vet's help in determining whether your puppy does indeed have worms and identifying what kind of parasite they are. Without this information, it is not possible to choose the correct medication to deworm your puppy at home. What happens after deworming a puppy? After deworming, you might notice dead worms in puppy poop. Sometimes, you might notice slight movement but the worms will go on to die. You should also expect your puppy to experience some diarrhea after treatment. Puppies with high worm burdens might become ill after deworming. This is because when all of the parasites die at once, the lining of the intestines becomes inflamed, causing vomiting, diarrhea, and decreased appetite. Luckily, this usually resolves on its own and your puppy should feel fine in a couple of days. What are the side effects of puppy wormer? In general, anti-parasite drugs have a very high margin of safety, which means that they rarely cause problems. How long will my puppy poop worms after deworming? Puppies will typically poop worms for days after a deworming treatment. How long does it take for the dewormer to work? Typically, multiple rounds of dewormer are required in order to kill the eggs and larvae. The number of rounds and length of treatment differs depending on the parasites for instance, treatment for roundworm infection typically lasts 4 weeks , as well as the severity and size of the infection. Does dewormer prevent worms? No, deworming puppies only treats a current parasite infection. While intestinal worms are typically not fatal, they can be a big nuisance. If left untreated, they can result in coat issues, lack of appetite, poor nutrient uptake, poor growth, intestinal upsets, organ damage, loss of consciousness, and even death. For this reason, it is very important to treat your puppy regularly for worms. How much does it cost to deworm a puppy? If your puppy has heartworms, your veterinarian will need to do bloodwork, X-rays, and other tests to determine how serious the infection is. Pet insurance can cover expensive veterinary treatments your pet might require throughout its life, and some plans include deworming. Many companies also offer pet wellness plans to help offset preventive pet care expenses, including the cost of vaccines for dogs , annual wellness exams , and standard fecal tests. Pawlicy Advisor can recommend the best pet insurance plan for your puppy based on its unique information. The platform also helps you compare plans from top pet insurance companies side-by-side, so you can understand coverage details and enroll in your favorite solution within a matter of minutes. Click the button below to get started. Is Pet Insurance Worth It? Key Takeaways Because puppies can inherit intestinal worms from their mothers, deworming schedule should be started early between two and eight weeks old. Intestinal worms in puppies can cause diarrhea, vomiting, decreased appetite, poor growth, organ damage, and even death. Many parasites your puppy might have, such as hookworms and roundworms, can also infect you and your family, which is why regular deworming is so important. If you have any questions or concerns about treating your puppy for worms, be sure to contact your vet and stay away from natural homemade remedies. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. Discover the online program that more than 57, dog owners have used to rapidly transform their dog into a well-behaved, obedient furry friend. Keep in mind though that almost all puppies will have intestinal worms when they are born. Because of this one fact all puppies should be dewormed aggressively starting at about three to four weeks of age with treatments repeating about every 2 weeks at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. It is also a good idea to continue deworming the puppy at least once per month until the puppy is at least 6 months old. Later on, as the puppy matures, it is a very good idea to put the GSD puppy on a heartworm preventive medication that is also effective in treating hookworms, roundworms and other types of worms. Just so you'll know, infected puppies shed roundworm and hookworm larvae continuously in their feces. Later on, if they happen to dig or play in the same area where they pooped earlier, they will reinfect themselves. Roundworms and hookworms can be treated easily enough with a good quality dewormer. If your dog lives in an area where exposure to various kinds of worms is very high it is a good idea to deworm your dog or puppy every three to six months throughout it's life. Also, if your dog eats poop from any kind of any animal it should also be treated for hookworms, roundworms and tapeworms as often as every three months. There are many other kinds of worms that your dog may become infected with such as whipworms and the like. To be sure exactly what kind of worm infestation your pet has, you will need to take your pet or a stool sample to the veterinarian for a fecal exam. If you have a puppy or dog and have not wormed it in some time please consult your veterinarian for more information about deworming your dog or perhaps follow the suggested worming schedule listed within this brief article. Below is one example of a deworming schedule that we use quite frequently per Drs. Foster and Smith. As always, please contact your veterinarian with any questions that you may have concerning deworming your dog. For a puppy at increased risk, also treat at 10 and 12 weeks, and then monthly until the puppy is 6 months old. Thereafter, use a heartworm preventive medication that is also effective against hookworms and roundworms. Deworming Nursing Dams. Despite your day-long care, as a responsible dog owner, you may wonder about how your dog can get these notorious worms. There are a lot of ways by which your lovely dog can get worms. Among them, some of the most probable reasons are: From the mother Your dog can easily get worms like roundworms from their affected mum. In this case, your pup will be born with worms. These worms can produce serious infections in young puppies. Also, dogs can be infected with worms while drinking milk from infected mothers. Eating contaminated meat German Shepherds are hunting dogs and they like to scavenge occasionally. Due to their natural hunting behavior, your dog could chase and eat other infected animals like birds, rodents, or other small animals. Eating worm eggs Roundworm eggs are frequently found in the outside soils and these eggs can remain active for several months after laying. An adult roundworm female can lay near about eggs per day. While roaming outside, your dog can easily ingest those eggs or bring those eggs into your home and contaminate others. Mosquito bite Heartworm eggs of dogs can easily pass from one infected dog to another healthy dog through blood-sucking vectors like mosquitoes. From fleas Fleas help carry the larvae of tapeworms during grooming , and can infect other healthy dogs. During grooming Usually roundworm eggs get attached to the coat of your dog. While grooming , your dog may swallow the eggs or larvae of worms and become infected with roundworm infection. Eating raw or contaminated food also puts your dog at a great risk of having worm infestation. Types of Parasites in Dogs Your German Shepherd can get a variety of worms, such as roundworm, heartworm, hookworm, flatworms, flukes, pinworms, etc. They are usually considered external parasites when in the soil or water. After ingestion, they act as an internal parasite and produce significant symptoms. Toxocara canis and Toxascaris leinina are the two most common roundworms in dogs. Hookworms These are smaller than the roundworm and look like a thread. They actually live in the intestine of your dog and attach to the wall of the intestine and suck blood. Ancylostoma caninum or Ancylostoma brazilienseis are the most common hookworm of dog. Heartworm Dirofilaria immitis, a small threadlike worm can block the major artery in the heart which leads to various organ failures, and ultimately death if your dog is left untreated. Ringworm This refers to a fungal infection that produces significant lesions such as inflamed, red, swollen patches over the skin. This is mostly caused by fungus Microsporum canis. Whipworm This includes Trichuris vulpis, a long-necked worm that attaches to the intestinal wall and feeds on nutrients from the blood. No matter what type of worm is infecting your dog, you always need to see a veterinarian right away. When in doubt, go see your vet ASAP as time is crucial when this happens. Symptoms of Worms in Dogs After having worm infestation, your German Shepherd can display a number of symptoms depending upon the load and severity of the infection. The most common symptoms of worm infestation may include the following: Diarrhea. Deworming Schedule: Worms are an indispensable part of puppy life, so it is important to know the symptoms to look for and to establish a puppy worm schedule. How often do you Deworm a puppy or Deworming Schedule? Small puppies can be born with worms and are still developing their immunity. For this reason, puppies should dive early in their lives, most often at 2, 4, 6, 8 and 12 weeks of age. Once your puppy is 12 weeks old, you can continue to treat your puppy for life every three months. Mothers can also send worms to their puppies, so it is important that they get treatment during intercourse and before the birth of their puppies. Symptoms of intestinal worms Look for the following warning signs that your new family member may have a case of puppy worms: Weakness and neglect Weight loss despite a good appetite Abnormal bloating If you notice any of these symptoms, collect recent stool samples and arrange a meeting with your vet to help identify the problem. If your puppy has worms, your vet will discuss treatment options with you. Types of worms Roundworm can shrink through infected flower or dust. This slender, spaghetti-like parasite is about 12 cm long and causes a pot-belly appearance. Symptoms may include weight loss, weakness, vomiting, diarrhea in the stool or an increase in mucus and bloating. Hookworm is the most dangerous of all intestinal parasites. It is transmitted from mothers to puppies before birth or through lactation. Tapeworm infects a puppy when it eats its larvae from a host animal, such as a flea or rat. There are no obvious symptoms, but small, rice-like parts appear around their anus or in their feces. Mature tapeworms can cause your puppy to eat more than normal, but will not gain weight. You may notice mucus in the stool and weight loss or diarrhea. It is sometimes taken by raw or undercooked meat, including rats. Symptoms include diarrhea, fever, weight loss and loss of appetite. Heartworm enters a puppy through a mosquito bite. It can cause heart or lung damage, cough, lethargy and fatigue and can be fatal. Heartworms can be detected by a blood test and although they are difficult to cure, they are very easy to prevent. Ask your vet about treatment. Ringworm is caused by a fungus that lives on the skin and is highly contagious — it can also spread to humans. Ringworm appears as oval bear patches on your puppy skin. To reduce the risk, avoid unnecessary contact with other dogs. If you suspect your puppy has ringworm, take them to the vet to check if the ringworm can be detected only under ultraviolet light. Once diagnosed, your veterinarian will be able to make the right treatment. Warming treatments for your puppy Warming treatments are easy to use and effective. It should be understood that these treatments do not prevent your pet from shrinking, but work by killing any insects while handling. There are many ways to treat your puppy with insect repellent, from easy-to-administer dosage pills to delicious-tasting chews. These different formulations make it easy to give your puppy the diver he needs. It is important to read the label of any puppy worm, as you will need to use multiple products to protect your puppy from different types of worms. Also Read: 4 Tips for Dog Grooming Equipment maintenance and success Purina Whole Care Chocolate Warming Treatment is easy to chew providing delicious and effective treatment for common roundworm and hookworms for dogs. If your puppy needs more comprehensive treatment, all worms like Purina Total Care can treat infections such as roundworm, hookworm, whipworm, and tapeworm including hydatids. These puppy worms often come in pills, and if you do not know how to handle pills for your puppy, During your next deworming schedule ask your veterinarian for a presentation. This type of treatment prevents heartworm and flea infections and prevents the development of roundworm, hookworm, whipworm and tapeworm, as well as the development of allergic dermatitis of flies and fleas. Preventing re-infection What most puppy owners do not realize is that diverming is so important that it is only part of the solution. As mentioned, divers kill parasites in your pet, but they do not always work to prevent infection in the first place, especially when it comes to intestinal worms. Therefore, preventing re-infection is crucial for a happy, healthy puppy. In addition to maintaining your regular puppy diving schedule, keep your pet from re-infecting their environment: Pick up their poop immediately Wash your hands thoroughly after handling them, especially if you are handling their waste Keep your puppy flea-free, as flies can send tapeworms to your dog It is important to treat your puppy early in their life and it is important to carry out this treatment during their adult years. If you have any concerns about parasite treatment for your puppy, consult your vet.

Typically, you will be spending a couple of hundred bucks on vet visits, tasty food, amusing doggy toys, and so on. For a better understanding, we have listed a rough breakdown of the most common expenses you will be making. However, grooming your dog is much more than that. It includes a bubble bath and shampoo session, nail trimming, haircuts, and ear care. The best thing about Bernedoodles is the fact that they are not huge shedders. However, you will still need to groom them regularly. Moreover, you will have to do this maybe 3 or 4 times every year. This is a rather substantial amount that is extremely important as well. Your dog will have to be taken to the vet frequently for vet exams, potential surgeries, and so on. The most problematic degenerative diseases for your pet are hip dysplasia. While this can be corrected with younger Bernedoodles, older dogs will need surgery to get the disease rectified. The same applies to your Bernedoodle. Keep in mind that boarding classes, dog daycare centers, and other training classes are very expensive. On the other hand, you have boarding centers. If you ever plan on taking a vacation, you will need to enroll your dog in a boarding center temporarily. In addition to that, the cost can also be greater if you take numerous trips every year. Other Accessories Dog Beds Bernedoodles are extremely playful little creatures. As a part of their nature, they may sometimes chew their bed and scratch all the zippers apart. In addition to this, dog beds are not affordable. Dog Crates Dog crates are extremely helpful as they can keep your dog away when you are occupied with other things or busy at work. Final Words When you combine the quality, looks, and genetics of a loving poodle and a naughty Bernese Mountain Dog, you get the Bernedoodle pup, a goofy yet caring companion. They make a great family pet as they can be very loyal and loving to all house members. Moreover, they are hypoallergenic dogs, making them the perfect mate for those prone to allergies. While owning a Bernedoodle can be a joy to a household, it can also be pretty heavy on your wallet. This includes the expenses for grooming, vet bills, dog food, and so on. Therefore, before you decide to welcome an adorable Bernie into your home, make sure you consider the factors mentioned above to help make an estimated budget. Based on this, you will be able to determine whether the Bernedoodle is the right match for you! These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. Typically, Standard Doodles take more time to reach their full size than smaller Doodles. However, most Doodles go through the fastest growth spurts in the first 6 months of their life. Standard Swiss Doodle Size Chart In the Standard Swiss Doodle size chart above we learned that Standard Swiss Doodles usually weigh between 50 to 60 pounds, and stand around 23 to 25 inches tall at the shoulder. Standard Swiss Doodles do take a bit more time to reach their full size. Standard Swiss Doodles usually see a plateau in weight gain between .They stand around 19 to 22 inches tall at the shoulder. As they are smaller than the Standard Swiss Doodles, they also reach adulthood faster. Mini Swiss Doodles usually reach their adult weight around 11 to 13 months of age. Standard Swiss Doodles usually weigh between 50 to 60 pounds, and stand at 23 to 25 inches tall at the shoulder. Mini Swiss Doodles are smaller and usually weigh around 30 to 40 pounds, and stand at 19 to 22 inches tall. Hopefully, our Swiss Doodle size guide has provided you plenty of information to take into account when adopting a Swiss Doodle puppy. It is not intended to be a substitute for qualified professional veterinary advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of your veterinarian or other qualified animal health provider with any questions you may have. You Might Also Like.

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Get ready for endless tail wags and doggy delight as they await their monthly dose of treats and toys! Your dog's happiness is our top priority! If they're not barking with joy over their DuraPaw dog box, we'll work to make it right! Get your dog a box of goodies every month! Your dog deserves the best, from tasty treats to terrific toys. Order your CatBox or DogBox today. Get Started Reward your beloved pet by spoiling them with a Bowzer Box! Sign up for one of our subscription plans and treat your pet to a variety of handpicked wholesome treats and high-quality toys every month. Each Bowzer Box is unique and typically includes a featured Canadian product. Your pet will enjoy full-sized toys, delicious treats and samples, and dog owners will benefit from the coupons. How it Works Click the Get A Box link anywhere on our site and start building your very own subscription. You'll be charged on the first of the month for every month that we send you a Bowzer Box. Your subscription will auto-renew on the last shipment of your current plan. You can also Gift A Box and surprise someone you care about with a special treat! Proudly Canadian In , Bowzer Box was created by a group of Canadian dog owners who wanted to provide the best for their Canuck canines. Since that time, we have been dedicated to finding and shipping the best products to our pet owners. We are proud to be Canadian and, whenever possible, we include Canadian-made products in our boxes. If you would like to see one of your favourite Canadian treats in Bowzer Box please let us know. The Best Products for Your Best Friend We want only the best for our four-legged friends, so we put a lot of time and care into selecting items that are healthy and safe for your dog. The toys we include are mainly sourced from Canada and the USA, although sometimes if a toy from another country proves itself with our pups we'll include it too. Sign Up Why BowzerBox? Because we believe all dogs and Cats should have the opportunity to live a happy and healthy life. At FourLegger, we aim to bring joy to all Cats and Dogs across Canada by delivering boxes of high-quality toys. All the treats we include are made in either Canada, USA, or if we found something extra special from a top quality company in an awesome country. Spoil your dog,They deserve it! Postmedia may earn an affiliate commission from purchases made through links on this page. For those of us who have pups, we may want to treat them with subscription boxes of their very own. Enter BarkBox and Woof Pack. BarkBox Article content BarkBox launched in with its monthly-themed subscription reaching more than a million dogs across North America every four weeks. In , the popular pooch-catering service launched in Canada with limited offerings but some pretty good gear to treat your pet on the regular. Advertisement 2 This advertisement has not loaded yet, but your article continues below. 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We have a fenced in play area, and large fields to run. We have other animals, including chickens, rabbits, cats and horses. Our 3 children love their animals and play a vital role in our puppies socialization. We have spared no expense to ensure that our puppies have absolutely the best health clearances. We want your pet to have a long and healthy lifetime! They also have a greatly reduced risk of cancer. Our puppies come with a 2 year genetic health guarantee , and we are also a proud supplier of NuVet Vitamins. We invite you to take the time to view their pedigrees and health clearances. To read more about us, click here. Over the years we have had 7 puppies and this was the best experience we have ever had with a breeder. Di has excellent communications and it was so easy to ask her any questions and reserve our puppy. She is also a great photographer and helped to document the life and growth of her litter of puppies. Through her photos and videos we could see the great socialization experiences she was providing the puppies. The clearances and K9data are all available online for the parents. Her puppies are healthy, clean, socialized and ready to go to loving homes at 8 weeks. We are in-home breeders with long-term, ethical breeding practices. We partner with each other to serve the United States with excellent, low-tempered, family dogs that are blocky and stunningly beautiful. Our Breeding Program We are not a puppy mill. We are a family business. Bill and Rita live outside Pittsburgh, PA and are retired couple who enjoy our acre hobby farm and go to great lengths to ensure that our parent dogs and puppies are treated with the best care. We are small, professional hobby breeders and always strive to protect and improve the breed. Our interview process ensures that families are able to provide a good home and environment for our puppies. We stand behind our puppies and offer a 2 year health guarantee and have many happy customers that have ongoing relationships with us. They are carefully socialized every day with the ENS Super Dog Protocol , along with lots of love and kisses from all ages of children and adults. We feed the highest quality food, and our doggies enjoy being in a home where they are cared for all day long. Our dogs are family dogs that sleep in our home. They all are highly trained, groomed, exercised, and socialized. We are a northern California breeder near Sacramento that prides itself on choosing our breeding dogs for top health, temperament, and beauty that conforms to the breed standard. Our dogs are selected from champion lines with health clearances. We will only breed dogs that pass all of these tests, so we can continue reaching to improve the breed through imposing high standards for our dogs. We breed dogs from these lines to continue a heritage of excellence in the breed. This standard is different from the AKC standard for golden retrievers, but both are accepted and licensed. The English type should have a blockier and fuller head, shorter muzzle, lower ear set, rounder eyes, stouter body structure, as well as a lighter color than the American type see comparison figure below. As an adult, it has been a pleasure to now show and selectively breed these beautiful English Golden Retrievers. Raising our English Golden Retrievers is a family endeavor that includes everyone from the youngest to the oldest. It is wonderful to make family memories with our dogs and children together. Our English Goldens are first and foremost pets who live and play among our family. Our children are involved from showing our dogs to whelping the puppies. Our puppies go home to their new families very loved and well socialized. In Northern California, we are located in Newcastle which is at the base of the Sierra Mountain foothills; close to Sacramento, and about miles from San Francisco or about miles from San Jose other cities near us are Roseville, Loomis, Folsom, Orangevale, Auburn, Lake Tahoe about an hour , and Reno about 2 hours. We can deliver our puppies to you if you are out of state, and personally travel with the puppy to bring your puppy to you. We cordially invite you to visit us and meet our beloved puppies and amazing dogs. We're located in the California Gold County just 25 miles east of Sacramento. Surrounded by golden foothills, we offer the perfect place to meet and enjoy the dogs. Expect to be greeted with wagging tails and wet noses during your visit, as our dogs are always excited to meet new people. Please let us know when you would like to visit by booking an appointment. The care and love you, Heather, and all at Classic Heritage devote to these pups is remarkable. The efforts taken to ensure pups are matched with their new happy forever home are excellent. Everyone I met was equally professional, educated, loving, kind, and a lot of fun. All of the dogs are beautiful and happy.We have had the best experience and have the most loving pup so anything we can do to help Classic Heritage we would. We have recommended you to everyone who has asked. Through our specialized training programs each puppy is prepared to take their place as a valued and happy member of their forever family. Golden Savannah is committed to responsibly breed and train each puppy. We are located in the beautiful hillside of Mohnton , Pennsylvania. Our Story Years ago, our first English Golden pups were born as ten stunning puppies that quickly became treasured members of the family. The name fit perfectly as we began to dedicate more of our time to breeding and raising our beautiful English Golden Retrievers. As the business grew we never established a full kennel, preferring instead to raise the puppies in a smaller and specialized environment. With many hours of research plus interacting with knowledgeable breeders, we learned that puppies who receive personalized training will have a more seamless and happy transition into their new family. In addition to breeding puppies, we also began offering several levels of added training programs for pups to learn the good hygiene, manners, and social graces. The English Cream Goldens are exceptionally friendly and intelligent, and a number of our puppies have even gone on to be successful therapy or service dogs. It is our joy at Golden Savannah to provide puppies that have become happy companion dogs to many, valued for their gentle benevolence and hearts of gold. We are located in the beautiful hillside of Mohnton, Pennsylvania. Customer Stories We go to great lengths to ensure that each puppy is entrusted into the care of a loving and capable family and we love to receive updated photos. It means the world to us at Golden Savannah to read stories about the pups that are sent from thrilled adoptive families. Introducing Mia, the newest member of our family. To be honest, I was completely overwhelmed with the idea of finding a dog, funding this adventure and the responsibility it would entail. When I started searching I became even more overwhelmed. I found many resources for veterans but not much for a young adult. I started searching for started dogs that we could continue to train on our own. Golden Savannah is a breeder from Pennsylvania. Mike was so supportive asking lots of questions to help determine just the right pup for Gretta and her needs. Continue reading… Kristi Pfeffer Nathe Hope all is well and you and your family enjoyed a wonderful summer! I wanted to send you some updated pics of our summer with Odin. He's been the best addition to our family and we couldn't love him any more! He's growing like crazy - already almost 60 lbs and just short of 6 months. People always comment on how well-behaved and mild mannered he is which makes us proud parents. There have even been multiple times where people have pulled over on the side of the road as we're going for walks to tell us how beautiful he is! And our friends and family love him just as much as we do! They all jump at an opportunity to babysit Odin if Andrew and I are going out of town. He's just finished his second round of training classes and has made lots of doggy friends and definitely captured the heart of our trainer. She also breeds Goldens here in Massachusetts and has a special connection with Odin. He gets to go to work with Andrew everyday and meet lots of people and dogs! I guess he feels like one of the boys : He's our little shadow and we can't wait to make more memories with him this winter! Life Span Did You Know? The English Cream Golden Retriever is not a separate dog breed from the Golden Retriever ; it is simply a rarer coat color variation. These Golden Retrievers tend to have light white or cream-colored coats instead of honey, golden-brown, or reddish coats. As they are still standard Golden Retrievers, they are recognized by the AKC and other canine organizations and can be registered. An English Cream Golden Retriever has all the same traits as any other Golden Retriever; they are one of the most popular dog breeds and tend to be open, friendly, and make great family pets. One of the facts about Golden Retrievers is that they are considered one of the friendliest dog breeds. As long as they are socialized and trained, Goldens tend to get along well with children, other dogs, and other pets. They are even known for being open and friendly with strangers. As one of the kid-friendly dog breeds , Golden Retrievers love attention. These dogs tend to be energetic, full of personality, and are devoted to their families. They also tend to be excitable, which means they can be prone to barking. Training your dog to stop barking early on can help curb this habit and help prevent it from becoming a nuisance. Due to their friendly, gentle nature and intelligence, Goldens can often be found working as service, therapy, or search and rescue dogs. English Cream Golden Retrievers are highly adaptable dogs. Their high energy and exuberance make them better suited for homes with yards where they can run. They can adapt to apartment living, but you will need to dedicate a lot of time every day to ensure they get enough attention, mental stimulation, and exercise. Goldens fare well in most climates. As with any dog breed, they are sensitive to heat and extreme cold. Because they bond so closely with their families and are one of the most affectionate dog breeds , they do not like to spend long periods of time alone. Some potential health concerns to be aware of in an English Cream Golden Retriever can include canine cataracts, progressive retinal atrophy, hip dysplasia, and elbow dysplasia. Good breeding practices reduce the risk of these health issues and make a big difference in the health of puppies. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. You can also ask about any health tests or clearances that have been done. The national breed club recommends hip and elbow evaluations, an NCL DNA test, an ophthalmologist evaluation, and a cardiac exam at a minimum. English Cream Golden Retrievers are intelligent and eager to please. This makes them highly trainable dogs that are a good fit for owners of all experience levels. Not only are they one of the best dog breeds for first-time owners , but they also tend to excel at obedience competitions and other dog sports. As one of the smartest dog breeds , Golden Retrievers can get bored easily. Because they pick up things quickly, they can get bored with too much repetition in training. If your dog has mastered basic commands , move on to other activities or more advanced commands. Anything you learn will help and will only strengthen the bond you are building with your puppy. Plus, there are several other benefits of puppy training classes including socialization. English Cream Goldens may have a lighter-colored coat, but they still have the classic longer Golden Retriever coat that will shed a big year-round and heavier as the seasons change. You will want to bathe them as needed and get your Golden professionally groomed a few times a year, especially as the seasons change. Trimming nails once or twice a month keeps them from growing too long. Weekly ear checks, along with careful cleanings as needed, can help prevent ear infections. Daily tooth brushing is ideal to keep tartar buildup at bay. This, plus cleanings at the vet when needed, is good dental care for dogs and can help prevent painful dental diseases later in life. Golden Retrievers are known for being high-energy dogs. Like Labrador Retrievers , they also tend to have an extended puppyhood. They do tend to calm down a little as they grow into adulthood, but will still have a lot of energy. Daily walks plus some playtime, time to run, and other activities are usually enough to keep this dog happy and healthy. Goldens tend to be athletic and versatile dogs. So, once they are done growing and the vet has cleared them for higher-impact activities, you can take them running with you, play frisbee, go hiking, train for dog sports, and more. As one of the most active dog breeds , you will likely run out of energy before they do and they will likely be up for even more activity if you are. An English Cream Golden Retriever generally lives for years on average. Golden Retrievers are one of the dog breeds of famous dogs.

German Shepherds are very gentle dogs and are much known for their protective traits. Unfortunately, last , there was a new adoption fee. Adopting a German Shepherd in Massachusetts would now cost around dollars to dollars. These German Shepherds are provided with consistent medical care. Ever since the German Shepherd gets rescued, they will closely be monitored and have the privilege of being spayed and neutered. Care also includes all kinds of shots for dogs. Choosing a Good German Shepherd Rescue If you are trying to adopt a rescued German Shepherd from German Shepherd shelters, you might be confused about what you should consider. If you ask people to like your friends and family, they might have different opinions that confuse you. But there is not so much to consider. The fact that you chose to adopt a rescued German Shepherd rather than buying one is already one act of kindness. You might already know that there are so many rescued German Shepherds in the world and only a few German Shepherd shelters. If the German Shepherd comes at you with no hesitations and no aggressiveness, you would know that it was a good rescue. If the German Shepherd is warm and inviting on your first encounter, it is already a good rescue because there are no signs of trauma or aggression. How do I pick a good rescue German Shepherd? You might ask yourself what kind of German Shepherd you should adopt and rehome. You can look for outgoing dogs. You can tell that by observing their body language when you first meet. However, if you are also not down to unlimited patience, you can avoid a shy German Shepherd. These dogs can be a little bit of work because they are afraid and run away from you. If you are outgoing and are a very hands-on person, you might not enjoy your German Shepherd because of its shyness. Dogs can be trained and can also be flexible like some people are. If you love a challenge, you can pick any dog you want. Summary German Shepherds make excellent family dogs and maybe excellent friends. However, we are all aware that adopting a German Shepherd pet requires a significant amount of time and patience. As a result, we compiled a list of German Shepherd rescues in Massachusetts, your state. In this manner, we can bring together people who wish to rehome these pets and provide them with the family and affection they deserve. As a result, we wish you the best of luck finding your pet and bringing it into your family. Other States. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics". The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary". The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Performance". It does not store any personal data. Functional Functional Functional cookies help to perform certain functionalities like sharing the content of the website on social media platforms, collect feedbacks, and other third-party features. Performance Performance Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors. Analytics Analytics Analytical cookies are used to understand how visitors interact with the website. These cookies help provide information on metrics the number of visitors, bounce rate, traffic source, etc. Advertisement Advertisement Advertisement cookies are used to provide visitors with relevant ads and marketing campaigns. These cookies track visitors across websites and collect information to provide customized ads. Others Others Other uncategorized cookies are those that are being analyzed and have not been classified into a category as yet.

Use baby steps and go slowly letting your GSD pup get used to their crate. Offer them meals Provide them a few meals either very near or inside their crate for a positive association with their new crate. When you leave As they spend more time inside their crate, work on leaving them alone for very short periods. Step 1: Introduce Your German Shepherd to Their New Crate Spend about 5 minutes, two to four times a day, introducing your dog to their special kennel. Familiarize your dog with the kennel by tossing a high-value food reward near the crate to entice them. Let them explore the kennel and go in and out freely on their own. A fun, squeaky toy tossed inside can sometimes help them explore their crate. Step 2: Feed Your German Shepherd Inside Their Crate When your dog has sniffed the crate and wandered in and out multiple times, offer them a meal inside with the door propped open. Offer several meals, in the same way, to show your dog a kennel is a safe place. After a few meals inside and when they are comfortable eating, begin to quietly and softly close the door. But let them out once their meal is over. Next time, leave them in the crate for a shorter period. This way you reward them for staying quiet, instead of whining. When they enter, toss them a treat as a reward. Close the door quietly and sit in the same room as them for 5 to 10 minutes. You can even sit calmly next to the crate while dropping food into it occasionally. Now, go to another room for a few minutes to leave them alone. Instead, sit in the same room again for a few minutes before releasing them. Increase the time you leave them alone in the room and repeat the previous step upon your return to them. Once you work your way to leaving them in their crate for about 30 minutes, begin leaving them in their crate while you leave your house. Step 4: Crating Your German Shepherd When You Leave the House Leave the house for a short time with them in the crate using the same process above to call them to the crate. Call your dog to their crate anywhere from 5 to 20 minutes before you want to go so they have time to settle in their crate and relax. Tell them to go into their crate, give them a reward, and offer them praise. Leave the house without a big commotion. When you return, quietly let them out of their crate. Their collar could get hung up on one of the bars and cause serious injury or worse! When you take the time to introduce the crate properly, they see it is a comfortable place that has their favorite toys and tasty foods! You must keep this slow. If at any time your dog whines, you have gone on too long! Praise puppy for relieving themselves. Offer fresh water and take them back outside again. Take your pup back outside to eliminate before crating. Let them outside to relieve themselves and stretch. Offer fresh water, cuddles, and another meal. They need to go outside after eating and drinking. Place your pup back in the crate. Play with them and take them for a walk. Supervise them by leashing them to you and watching them closely. Let them outside. Praise them for using the bathroom outside. Throw a ball or work on basic obedience. Return inside and leash them to you to supervise while playing, petting, or letting them rest next to you. Bring them in and let them explore while you watch them. Keep them leashed to you when indoors to avoid any accidents. Offer fresh water. Take up the water a couple of hours before bed. This is to prevent accidents in the crate overnight. Let them stretch their legs in the yard. This gets him too excited before bed. You want bedtime to be a calming ritual. You can make your own schedule based on the typical times a GSD puppy needs to go out. Be sure to watch for these times and set an alarm if you need a reminder. Pay attention to these times and let your dog out: When they first wake up. After their first meal of the day. Before you go to work. Image used with permission by copyright holder How long does it take to crate-train a German shepherd? With that being said, crate-training a dog usually takes longer than teaching him how to sit or stay. Recommended Videos As a general rule, puppies should be left in a crate for one hour per month of age, but they should never be kept in a crate for longer than four hours at a time. By the time your pup is six months old, he should be able to sleep in his crate overnight without having any accidents. Crate-training tips Whether you have a young puppy or an older dog, crate training requires time and patience. You may want to purchase a crate large enough to accommodate his adult size. Leave the crate open in a room where you spend plenty of time. Your pup may wander into the crate without being told to do so. Now you can try closing the door and leaving your pup in his crate. Image used with permission by copyright holder Are German shepherds hard to crate train? While crate training a German shepherd puppy may seem easier than training an adult dog, studies show that sometimes the reverse is true. In fact, many GSD owners will find that this is one of the easiest breeds to housetrain, as long as constant supervision and consistency are required. However, remember that all dogs learn at their own pace. Where should your German shepherd puppy sleep? According to the professionals, your German shepherd puppy should sleep indoors in a crate. Not only does crating your dog at night make housebreaking easier, but it also keeps your dog safe. Puppies, especially German shepherd puppies, explore the world with their noses, which can lead them to mischief. Image used with permission by copyright holder Crate training is one of the most controversial topics amongst dog owners, but research shows that crating your dog can help her feel safe and secure. With time and patience, your German shepherd will come to view her crate as her den , and she might even choose to spend time there on her own. Editors' Recommendations. But goodness, German Shepherd puppies can get into a lot of trouble! Crate training a German Shepherd puppy can help ease the stresses of puppyhood. Believe me, crate training is your best friend! Well, after your German Shepherd, of course. This guide will teach you everything you need to know about crate training a German Shepherd puppy. What is Crate Training? There are a lot of people who feel this way, and the truth is — it can be cruel if the crate is misused. To make this happen, your pup must think of its crate as a place where the good times roll! In other words, a puppy should associate its crate with only pleasant experiences. Now be prepared — this is a process with a lot of training involved, and it can be long and frustrating at times. What are the Benefits of Crate Training? There are so many great benefits to crate training a German Shepherd puppy. Let us count the ways… A way to feel secure: A crate makes your puppy feel safe and secure. Remember, dogs evolved from den animals so they like having a small, protected place of their own. A way to potty train: One of the toughest things about raising a puppy is potty training , and a crate is a great tool to help take the headache out of housetraining. When Allie was a puppy, she would wake me up with a whine in the middle of the night to let me know she needed to potty. With a little time and a lot of patience! A way to transport: Crates make travel much easier for both you and your German Shepherd! Riding in cars can be very stressful for your pup, but if your dog is comfortable being crated, it makes for a much easier ride. A way to protect your puppy: As a puppy, Allie would get into everything! She would eat or chew anything she could get her mouth on, and I worried about her eating something dangerous while I was out. Many dogs are injured or worse from chewing electrical wires or eating toxic substances so crate training is essential to keep your active German Shepherd puppy safe from harm. A way to protect your stuff: Did I mention that German Shepherd puppies love to chew!? This includes your furniture, shoes, and anything else you leave where your puppy can find it. If left loose in your house, your puppy will most likely search and destroy! A way to keep your sanity: Overall, crates offer you something priceless — peace of mind! Crate training saved me a lot of stress and energy while potty training Allie. Crate training means a happier you and a better relationship with your furry friend so you can have fun being a puppy parent! How Do I Choose a Crate? Dog crates come in different materials and sizes and can be purchased online or at your local pet store. There are a lot of options available! This section will help you make the best buying decision for you and your four-legged family member. Wire Crates Pros: Wire crates are well-ventilated, and the pan slides out so they are easy to clean. They are also collapsible for storing or moving, and you can purchase a divider for this type of crate. Larger sizes can also be heavy. Plastic Crates Pros: Plastic crates are good for travel. Because the sides are mostly solid, your puppy may feel more secure. Cons: Plastic crates are harder to get clean and less ventilated. Fabric Crates Pros: Fabric crates are very lightweight and great for travel. Cons: Fabric crates are not very durable and are easily destroyed by a mouthy puppy. If the crate is too big, your puppy will potty on one end and sleep on the other, defeating the purpose of using the crate for potty training. So what is the best size crate for a German Shepherd puppy? Go with a or inch metal crate with a divider — the divider is key! Use it to partition the crate, giving your GSD pup just enough room to stand up, lie down, and turn around. GSD puppies grow fast! So just move the divider back to give your pup more room as it grows. Check out my full guide to the best crates for German Shepherds if you want to learn more, but here are three of my top recommendations. There are several sizes available, and you can choose either a single or double door. I went with the inch size, and 8-year-old Chyna still fits inside perfectly. Very durable and sturdy but still folds easily. Plus, the price makes it a great value! Includes a fleece bed, which is removable and washable for easy cleaning. Very easy to set-up and fold-down, making it a great option for dogs on the go! Allie uses this one for long traveling long distances in the truck. Petmate offers several variations on this hard-sided plastic kennel, including several sizes to choose from. Easy to assemble and very sturdy, making it the safest crate for airline travel. If your dog gets overly anxious or nervous in new situations, this crate might be the best choice. Ok, new crate for your puppy — check! But what else do you need? Bedding When I first started crate training Allie, I bought a nice, fluffy bed for her to sleep on while in her crate — bad idea! For a puppy, I recommend buying something a bit more durable and a bit less fluffy. Toys Toys are great for a puppy learning to love its crate. It gives your pup something to do other than chew up the bedding and teaches it that crate time is fun! Just remember, eventually, your puppy will be left unsupervised in its crate for extended periods of time. So any toys you choose for its crate must be safe! Allie loved gnawing on her Kong while in her crate. Treats Speaking of treats, make sure to keep plenty of treats on hand to use as rewards. A crate cover will help your dog feel safe and keep it from being disturbed by its humans walking by. You can purchase a crate cover or even use a towel or bedsheet. Keep in mind, never cover all sides of the crate — your dog needs plenty of ventilation. As I mentioned before, the most important part of crate training is teaching your puppy to LOVE its crate! How do you do this? Use lots of treats, patience, and praise to show your dog that learning is fun. Put the crate in a room where your puppy spends a lot of time and prop the door open or remove the door altogether. You can add a crate mat and toy, but then back off and let the puppy investigate the crate casually — no pressure! Your puppy may explore immediately, going in and out of the crate to sniff around. But if not, you can encourage it with a few treats or toys near the front of the crate. Be patient until your puppy is bold enough to go all the way inside its crate without any nervousness. Use during mealtime Once your pup is comfortable with wandering in and out of its crate, pair mealtime with crate time. Adding a food reward reinforces those positive associations you want to build between your puppy and its crate. Start by regularly feeding your puppy next to the crate, then slowly work the food dish into the crate at the front, then further back. Close the crate Once your pup is happily chowing down while standing all the way inside the crate, start closing the door during mealtime — but just until dinner is over! Open the door again as soon as your pup is finished eating. Then, close the door. Stay near the crate for several minutes, then go into another room for a few minutes. When you return, sit near the crate again for a few more minutes before opening the door. Repeat this step until your puppy is comfortable in its crate for at least 30 minutes without you in sight. This may take several days or even weeks so be patient! Crating when you leave Now your puppy is ready to try crating while home alone for short periods of time at first. Make sure to give your puppy a potty break before crating for an extended period of time. Stick to your normal routine for crating — use a command to get your dog to enter the crate, praise your dog briefly, give them a treat, and then leave quietly. Keep it low-key when you return as well. Wait a few minutes before letting your puppy out of its crate and try to ignore any excited behavior. Crating overnight Before attempting an overnight stay in the crate, make sure your puppy is tired and ready for sleep. Lots of exercise and playtime before bed will help. Give your puppy a chance to potty immediately before bedtime. Again, use your normal routine for crating command, praise, treat. Once your puppy is happily snoozing through the night, you can move the crate wherever you prefer. Only keep puppy-safe items in the crate at night. A regular daily routine is important in training your puppy, and consistency is key! Puppies learn best through repetition so create a puppy crate training schedule and stick to it. Here is a super simple German Shepherd crate training schedule that you can easily modify to fit your needs.

We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. Then you get a reality check. Walking nicely on a leash is not an instinctive behavior, and your Lab is just as likely to try and pull you in whatever direction they choose. Until they start getting into their senior years, Labs are excitable, curious, and powerful animals. Labradors are well known as strong leash pullers. But, like any desirable behavior, your dog can learn and you can teach. If your Labrador pulls like a rambunctious plow horse, read on to find out how to get back on the straight and narrow. There are times when a dog will attempt to assert itself as the leader of the pack, and some people believe that pulling is just such an attempt. The simple truth is dogs are overcome with excitement and overwhelmed with sensory input when they get outdoors, especially someplace other than their own backyard. Over stimulation Before long, your dog is so caught up in seeing, smelling, exploring and peeing, that all training goes right out the window. Even the act of pulling itself can be rewarding if your Lab likes the feeling of a little extra exercise. Freedom and autonomy in the great outdoors! Now your dog knows that pulling on the lead pays off in spades. But once the association is made between the leash and going for a walk, it becomes one of the single most exciting objects in the world! Once all four paws are on the floor or the dog is sitting; whatever your preference then move to attach the leash again. If the bad behavior continues, you back off once more. Why leather leashes? Short Practice Sessions A simple way to preserve your patience is to keep the length of your training walks to a minimum. The more time you spend with your dog pulling you along, the more likely you are to become exasperated. Nothing good will come of that for either of you. You need to be in the right frame of mind to convey reinforcement to your dog. A good idea is to choose a short route in your neighborhood, and walk it repeatedly. A familiar walk is still a pleasant one, though considerably less stimulating. Your dog will be less distracted if he sees the same things repeatedly. Burn Off Extra Energy in Advance Dogs in general, and Labradors in particular, have a lot of energy and they need to expend it in some manner. Short walks will not be enough to keep them satisfied, and they may be inclined to try to make up for it by pulling extra hard. Have an exercise session before your training walks to help combat this problem. Have some fun throwing a ball around the yard, or get in a good game of tug-of-war before heading out on the town. I always figured playing toss with a tennis ball was enough, but three things sold me with the Chuck It. You can launch the ball further with less effort. Keep Up the Pace Being a fairly large breed, your Labrador will have no trouble outpacing you without much effort. Reward Good Walking You know from your other training sessions that your Lab loves treats! When the walk is going just the way you want, offer praise and a tasty reward. Do this frequently to keep reinforcing the good behavior. And make sure they are compact and easily chewed treats that can safely be eaten on the go. When your dog starts to pull, you stop walking! If your dog is already proficient at coming when called, even when there are distractions, this may be the method for you. This technique may be difficult for smaller individuals, the elderly, or anyone with a physical disability. Ask your dog to come to you and give the sit command. At this time, resume your walk. If they continue to walk along beside you, repeat your praise word and offer another treat. Keep doing this periodically. Should they start to pull again, come to a stop and repeat the first step. When they pulls towards an object, stop as you did before. Call them back and have them sit. Again, offer the word of affirmation, but do not give a treat. Instead, walk to the item they want to inspect and have let getting to the object be the reward. Load up your pocket with treats, or carry a treat bag on your belt. Keep several in your hand at all times while walking, and replenish from your reserve. Cut them up into smaller pieces to make perfect training treats! Every few seconds, pop a treat in their mouth. Should they start to veer off or get ahead and start pulling, the walk stops. As with the previous method, call your dog back to you and get them to sit. When they do, give praise and then resume the walk, once again with the treats held in front of the nose. After a bit of uninterrupted practice, say a week or so, stop carrying treats in your hand, but have them nearby. Keep offering them frequently. Begin offering treats less frequently; start by giving a reward every 5 steps or so, and then gradually space them out over larger distances. Be aware, this method should only be used if your dog is not wearing a head halter or slip lead. The idea of this technique is to surprise your dog when they reaches the end of the leash. First, start with a verbal warning cue for your dog when they are about to run out of slack. Give praise and a reward as you continue to walk. Keep walking in the opposite direction, and praise your dog as they catch up to you. Once your Lab is back beside you, resume walking in the original direction. Repeat this step as necessary. The idea is to teach your dog that walking too far ahead and pulling leads to an unpleasant sensation, and diverts the walk away from where they want to go. Use this method if positive reinforcement is not having the desired effect. Watch for signs that your dog is under extreme duress; cringing, cowering, yelping or any other outward display of fear or pain are clear indications that this method is not working. Desist immediately and try something else. Collar Tug Like the previous method, this technique also uses a bit of negative reinforcement, and should not be used in conjunction with a slip lead, or a head halter. Again, this should only be tried if positive methods are not proving fruitful. As before, when your dog is approaching the end of the leash, administer a verbal warning. The force of the tug will depend on the size of your dog, and it may need to be repeated before you really get their attention. In the case of my own dog, his neck muscles are far too strong to make this effective, and the same may hold true for your own Lab. Exercise extreme caution with this technique. Choosing a good collar and leash will help as you teach your Lab to walk nicely. The Classic Collar Of course a traditional collar is perfectly acceptable, either with a buckle or snaps. For a selection of classic collars recommended by us, please click here. Harnesses A harness is a good option, especially for anyone who has had difficulty walking a dog using a collar. Many dogs will respond to pressure around their neck by pulling even more in the opposite direction. Pull that one out at parties and impress your friends! Head halters and no-pull harnesses can be very helpful during training. They make your dog easier to control, and discourage pulling almost entirely on their own. Be warned, though, that they should not substitute for actual training if you really want your Labrador to learn to walk on a loose leash. While your dog will walk perfectly well when using this equipment, they are unlikely to repeat this behavior with a traditional collar. Choosing a Leash Make sure you give some thought to what leash to buy. When yours truly bought his first leash, the selection was based on color and not quality, a decision I regretted when my very eager puppy snapped the leash and made a run for it! This gives enough length to give your dog a bit of freedom, but keeps it short enough for you to maintain control and have them close enough to praise and reward. Click here to see a selection of leashes as recommended by us. Things to Avoid No decent dog owner wants to hurt their dog, and yet pain-inflicting devices are all too commonly used for training. As mentioned earlier, negative reinforcement can be helpful if used cautiously and sparingly. However, to use it as your sole method for loose leash training is not acceptable. Choke and prong collars deliver strong doses of pain to a dog in order to deter them from unwanted behavior. It is extremely difficult to control the amount of pain generated during a correcting move with such a collar, and the force delivered invariably exceeds the required amount. It is our very firm belief at Labrador Training HQ and in the dog community in general that these items are cruel and barbaric. Avoid them at all costs. The good news is the repetition can be fun and rewarding. You and your dog will get plenty of exercise and quality time together, and opportunities for socialization and training , too. Labradors are strong and energetic dogs, especially in their youth. They love to get out and explore, and this desire coupled with their devotion to their owners, make loose leash training, well… a walk in the park. Get out and enjoy! Are you having trouble with your Lab pulling on leash? What have you done to help get your dog to stop pulling? Tell us your experiences in the comment section below. A very good, 4-part guide with steps to follow to train a loose leash walk. I highly recommend checking this out! You might want to try some yourself? Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. These tips will also help you to advance your dog so that, eventually, you can trust them to be off the leash in a safe area. Don't release your dog until they can demonstrate knowledge and obedience on the long leash and in many different settings. To begin with, walk them in the house and in the yard. Dogs learn 'contextually and by repetition'. These hints will help you to become the pack leader. Be certain that this is only reason that your dog will follow you. Make time to walk your dog Whether you walk your dog in the morning or evening will be influenced by your program. Whenever you exercise your dog, the walk should allow for 'focused time' and 'free time'. Two leashes will facilitate this. If they are under 12 months old, take some water with you. Also take a back-pack and a treat belt available on Ebay. I recommend no more than thirty minutes of walking in total for a dog under 14 months old as their growth plates are not set until this time. Be careful of overly vigorous activity, particularly if you have an older but playful dog. I don't recommend running for more than very short bursts for the same reason. Healthy hips and elbows are critical for a healthy, active and long life. Use two leashes - a long leash approx 7m and a short leash approx 1m Start your walk with the labrador pup on a short leash. The short leash will help you to direct and guide the dog. This allows you to maintain full control over your dog. Set up your walk for success. Start by getting the dog to sit or at the least be stationary and under your control. As you begin, keep your dog behind your body alignment. Be patient and encourage your dog. Do not show aggressive frustration. This will only cause confusion and fear or aggression. If your dog is not complying, stop and reset. You are the master Walking in front of your dog demonstrates that you are the master or the pack leader. You should be first out the door. The dogs should exit the compound only at your command. This is essential whether you are walking 1, 2 or more dogs. If your dog controls the pace and direction of the walk, they are the pack leader. Your dog should be beside or behind you during the walk. Dogs learn contextually The next two hints are important training essentials. Firstly, labradors learn contextually and their training in not immediately transferable to a new environment. Using the same disciplines and routines, train your dog the same way in different settings. This will entrench your expectations. Correct immediately Secondly, a labrador has about a five second retention of information. After five seconds the dog has lost any association between your assertiveness and their behaviour. If they disobey you, you must correct them within five seconds or not at all. If the dog is disobedient or simply does not understand, reset and start again. The long leash I'm a big fan of the long leash. A long leash will help you to correct bad behaviour at a distance. After a period of training with the short leash, remove it and connect the longer lead. Keep the leash in your hand, releasing it slowly and progressively. As they master this, you can back away while the dog is 'sitting and staying'. Reward your labrador pup with vigorous affection and a treat. After this, you should allow them to wander and sniff around. All this time you will keep your dog on the long leash and under your control. Be sure that the free time is less than their focus time. During the socialisation phase, 8 - 16 weeks, you will need both leashes as you expose your labrador pup to other dogs. As you walk your dog, you will come across small and large dogs that are aggressive. Walking on either leash will give your complete control. And it will ensure safety at all time. You new labrador pup has no innate road sense. Walk them, getting close to roads. Expose them to vehicles so that they do not panic. Reward your dog for good behaviour. Remember that dogs register tones and frequencies, not words. Use higher tones to affirm, reward and encourage. You approval is the greatest reward for a Labrador. Direct eye contact without high vocal affirmation will be interpreted as aggression. Use lower growling tones to reinforce disapproval. Try to avoid 'No' as a command. It is too general and therefore confusing to the dog. Always reward and reinforce obedience to specific commands. Use food treats to begin with, however you must gradually phase them out. Your vocal affirmation and affection should be your longer term goal. As your dog maintains the proper behaviour, reward them with treats. Reward your dog after the walk I recommend that you reward your labrador pup after the walk. Let them have a drink firstly then give them a portion of food that is less than a meal but more than a treat. It will not take long for your dog to anticipate the whole experience. When you appear with the leashes, they will become very enthusiastic. If you adhere to these eight hints and maintain the discipline of your training, you and your dog will value and enjoy the experience. Finally, remember to pick up after your dog. Don't go on a walk without your poop bags on hand! Find a vet you can have confidence in. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. Andorra and Spain I wouldn't use a front-fastening harness for a young puppy. They are generally used for stopping a dog from pulling, but don't help with training. Front fastener tend to either work by tightening around the dog as he pulls, making it uncomfortable to pull, which we'd call an aversive and most of us would choose to avoid. Or they work by preventing the dog from getting traction into the forwards motion, often by turning the dog slightly. If you have a problem with a dog pulling, and either have to have them on lead before they've been trained not to, or if you're physically unable to have the dog pulling you at all due to injury or somesuch, then they're fine. But in the case of a brand new puppy, I'd suggest that they're unnecessary, and you should be focussing on training him to walk without pulling from the get-go, which you can achieve perfectly well on a standard back-fastening harness. Since the puppy has no real weight to put behind it at this stage, you should be able to manage without the mechanisms in a front-fastener. I'd recommend looking at the articles on teaching your puppy to walk on a loose lead and start putting the recommendations into place immediately. Here are some articles that may help:. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. We put these two on our puppies from day 1 to get used to the feeling of a leash and collar. We have some more detailed information on best leashes and collars for your puppy below. I would advise against trying during the first 2 or 3 days in your home as they have enough to deal with getting used to a completely new environment and family. But by getting them used to a collar and leash at 10 weeks old, they will be comfortable wearing them by 12 weeks when you can start to walk them outside. How long will it take to get them used to a leash and collar? Some take hours, some take days, most will be comfortable by the end of 2 weeks as long as you take care to introduce them to it methodically. I have two highly informative buying guides for choosing the right size and style of leash and collar for every situation that you can find here: How to choose the right collars and how to choose the right leash. Otherwise it will be too heavy and uncomfortable. Choose a small, lightweight collar. The lighter it is, the easier it will be to get used to. Choose a wide, flat collar and not a thin round one. So get a wide flat collar, but one that is as light as you can find. Choose a collar with quick and easy to use clips and not a buckle fastening. You need to get the collar on and off as fast as possible and not have to fiddle with it. This makes the experience is as stress free as possible. Opens in new window. Be patient. It may take hours, it may take a couple of weeks, not all puppies learn at the same speed. So be patient and eventually they will get it. Try to act as though wearing a leash and collar is no big deal and is completely normal. Calm energy from you promotes calm energy in your puppy. They can become snagged on things and cause strangulation. For a puppy that constantly chews on the leash, spray it with Tabasco sauce, bitter apple or one of many other pet-safe bitter-tasting sprays available to deter their chewing. What you want to do is the first time you put it on, leave it on for just 5 minutes then remove it. Repeat this every half hour or 45 minutes for the first couple of days. Then leave it on for 10 minutes in each hour for the next day. Then 20 minutes in each hour the next day, and so on until you can leave it permanently on. By day 6 or 7 most puppies are used to their collar and comfortable wearing it for hours at a time. A puppy will learn at their own pace. To have the best chance at the quickest success, use the following tips and techniques. Any tighter than this is uncomfortable for your puppy and may even restrict their breathing. Any looser than this and they may be able to slip it off. This is why a plastic clip fastening is best as you can do it in a second. Some will remain quite calm rarely! A few will go absolutely crazy, scratch at it, roll around and make a huge fuss. You need to ignore their struggling. Just ignore all the fuss. To help combat this, you can use the power of distraction. Put the collar on before you feed your puppy one of their meals. Or put it on and then offer to play with them and their favorite toy. Also: You should only take the collar off when your puppy is calm and relaxed. Obviously you want to avoid this. So use food, training or play to distract them and get them into a calm state before you remove the collar. Then they will offer calm behavior to get it. You have to wait for calm. And you should also avoid giving treats when you take the collar off. Now, once your puppy is comfortable in a collar, you can move on to training them to get used to a leash. How To Get Your Puppy Used To A Leash ikostudio The following tips will get your puppy used to a leash and lay a great foundation to build upon for future leash training. You will learn to avoid developing bad habits that lead to pulling later on and develop good habits that help in future training. First of all, make sure your puppy is comfortable and confident wearing a collar, then in a secure and familiar room of your home you can attach a leash. As with the collar you want to almost ignore them. No encouragement, laughing or telling them off if they chew at or try to remove it. If the need arises, you can calm your puppy by using distraction. Call them over to you, ask for some obedience commands or offer them food or a toy and it will redirect their focus and attention away from the leash. Leave it laying just outside of their confinement area where they can see it but not get at it and use it as a chew toy, or place it near to their food bowl when eating so they can see it but will be too busy eating to want to play with the leash. We want them seeing the leash around to learn its nothing to fear, without being able to play with or chew on it. A good tip is to practice this from the minute you get your puppy home, a couple of weeks before ever attempting to attach the leash. Now you can start to pick up the other end. Instead, hold the leash and follow your puppy around, keeping the lead slack for them as you both go. It pays to have a pocket full of treats so if this does happen you can grab their attention and lure them toward you with a treat. You should practice this a few minutes every hour for a day or two. The first few times you lead them, have a treat in your hand or one of their favorite toys and use it to lure them around the room with you. Now put your puppy on the leash. Just encourage them your way you by calling their name and slapping your thigh. Make a HUGE fuss to make it a massive reward that they came to you. They will come eventually, just wait until they do and then praise and treat enthusiastically. Now repeat steps 1 to 4. Step 6: Repeat this exercise 5 to 10 times per session, each hour of the day and repeat for a few days until your puppy consistently moves toward you when they feel the slightest bit of pressure on the leash. This will not take long and once it is learnt it will benefit your future leash training massively! Step 2: As soon as they stop freaking out give total release of all pressure on the leash and give warm praise and a treat. This rewards them being calm. A few repetitions will teach them that outbursts get them nowhere and being calm gets the leash to slacken off and earns a treat. Step 3: Once your puppy has learnt to be calm to earn a loose leash, they have to do a bit more to earn their treat. Repeat this a few times. Step 4: Now only reward them for coming even closer. They will soon catch on to the fact that being calm and moving toward you earns praise and a treat. You can now follow the processes of stopping them pulling on the leash and leading them around the room as described earlier in this article. So try to avoid the following: Pulling on the leash yourself: This will achieve absolutely nothing. Additionally, dogs like most animals fight against restraint so when you pull, it just makes most pull harder. Also, your puppy pulls, they go forward. You pull back a bit, then eventually give in, they still go forward. So they learn your pulling is only temporary anyway and their pulling gets them where they want to go. Rushing forward to slacken the leash when your puppy pulls: This teaches the puppy that pulling works! When you snap or jerk a leash, you loosen it first, then snap it tight to startle a dog and get their attention. But when used incorrectly and too often, your puppy pulls, feels the leash go slack and then gets yanked back. Not good. We want them to think the pressure on the leash is totally released when they move toward us, so never add any back in although this is usually only a problem when using a long leash to be fair. Well, maybe this works to a degree. But by following the techniques described in this article, the process will be as stress free as possible, and you will have laid the foundations for training your puppy not to pull on the leash later, instead of them learning bad habits that you then have to break. Are you having problems getting your puppy used to his collar and leash? What techniques have your tried? Tell us about your experiences in the comment section below. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. How to leash train a Labrador. Labradors can pull like trains Everywhere you go, you will see dogs on leashes. Others have a rather different style. You will see their owners, hurrying along with one arm stretched desperately out in front. A stressed hand grips an outstretched leash, and at the end of it a dog fighting for air. Front feet scrabbling at the pavement, this dog is intent on choking himself! One way to help resolve this unpleasant situation, is to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash. And you can do that by waiting them out. Where you just stand still and refuse to move forwards while the lead is tight. But this can take a very long time with a determined puller. Please avoid retractable leashes. Make sure the leash is attached to a body harness , which is much safer for a strong pulling dog. Later on, your dog will not need frequent feeding to maintain his loose leash, but to begin with generosity is the key. An event marker A clicker is used to accurately tell your dog exactly when she did what you wanted her to. It is a very helpful aid in the training process. But you can equally use your voice. If you have to drive your dog to a deserted car park or quiet street so be it. A hard surface tarmac or paved is ideal is helpful as it enables the dog to quickly find and pick up the treats. How often to train your dog Set aside at least ten minutes for this training and do it at least twice a day. Three or four times a day is even better. Try not to miss a day, at least for the first week How to leash train a Labrador Take your dog to your chosen training location and attach the lead to his collar or harness Step 1: Start Set off walking forwards Step 2: Stop As soon as your dog to gets to the end of the leash this may be almost immediately , stand still Step 3: Wait Now wait for the dog to give you some attention. Drop a treat just behind you for him to collect as he reaches you. Start walking forwards Step 1 again as soon as he has gathered his treat from the ground. The dog will probably then charge past you to the end of the leash. You know what to do. STOP walking. Make like a tree. Pause, gather your thoughts. Rinse and repeat the steps from 1 through 4. Make a little kissy noise with your mouth for example. As soon as he looks at you drop a little food on the ground then turn away from him. The idea is that when he eats the food he will be in the right position just behind you, and that this position will become attractive to him. Start associating a kissy noise with food, at home, in the garden, and elsewhere. Your rewards may need to be upgraded to something more attractive and smelly. He should be hungry and eager to eat. Making progress with loose leash walking The first few sessions will be a bit boring. There will be waiting, and hanging about. Hang on in there, you need to be determined. Just focus on the fact that you have simply had enough of letting your dog drag you around. It may take three or four sessions before the dog figures out there is no point in charging past you, starts to pay you more attention, and watch where you are walking. But these occasions will become fewer and further between. And you will be able to walk longer distances and get to where you want to go, without stopping and changing direction every two seconds. All you have to do is stand firm when your dog gets it wrong, and reward him when he gets it right. You can do this. It takes a little patience, but you can do it. Introducing distractions to loose leash walking Just like any other skill you teach your dog, you need to start in a distraction free area. But there comes a point, when the dog has really grasped what you are teaching him, when you need to introduce some distractions into your training. Dogs eventually have to learn to walk past other dogs, people and the neighborhood cat, without charging about like lunatics. It helps to start with any distractions at a distance and to set up training exercises where it is easy for the dog to win because you have some control over the other participants. You can do this with friends or at a training club. Write it down At the end of each session, I suggest you make a note of how you got on. Rewarding good behavior As your dog gets better at walking on a loose lead, it becomes tempting to forget the rewards altogether. This is a sure way to see your efforts undone. Always carry a few treats on you when you are out with your dog. Reward him from time to time when he is being good. He deserves it. Before you learn how to leash train a Labrador This is a simple exercise designed to help people who are struggling with a dog that pulls them around on a lead. This is because every forward movement your dog makes on the end of a tight leash is a reward for him an reinforces the pulling behavior. There are various ways to tackle this You can drive your dog to his exercise area You can stop exercising the dog outside of your own garden whilst you train him to walk to heel You can use an anti-pull device whilst you are not training him Just remember, you can teach an old dog new tricks. And if you stay calm and patient, your Lab will get there in the end too.

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Our babies are adopted quickly, so reach out to reserve your furever friend or to ask any questions. Walker Hollow Golden Retrievers. Share 0 Shares Golden Retrievers are very friendly, loving, and often make great family pets. There are three types of Golden Retrievers — English, Canadian and American with colors ranging from golden, lightly golden, and dark golden. To bring home the perfect Golden Retriever from a breeder , it is important to find a breeder who focuses on the health, longevity, and temperament of their dogs. The Golden Retriever puppies should also be well socialized before going to their forever home and be screened for genetic hereditary problems including hip and elbow problems. If you are interested in buying a Golden Retriever puppy in Iowa, here are the top 10 most reputable Golden Retriever breeders. They have imported their dogs from the top European kennels, and they strive to produce high-quality, well-balanced, and wonderful temperament English Cream Golden Retrievers. Their puppies are raised in their home and treated as family members. The puppies are also handled by their children, have ridden in a car, experience plenty of outsides and inside playtime and different sounds and smells before going home with you. They are both calm in nature and have trained them to enjoy new experiences and people. The breeders at Red Rock English Golden Retrievers work in the dairy industry and for a genetics company. Because of their jobs, they want to make sure that genetically you will get the best dog. Name of Owner. One or both of this puppy's parents have undergone genetic testing. One or both of this puppy's parents are hip certified. One or both of this puppy's parents is OFA Heart certified. This puppy has had early neurological stimulation exercises. The sad truth is that many pet store purchased pups actually come from puppy mills. Basically, there is zero authenticity with pet stores. When it comes to adopting any animal from a pet store, there is an increased risk of unforeseen health or genetic problems. You also cultivate a life-long relationship with the breeder, meaning support is available to you anytime you may need it. With My Golden Retriever Puppies , you have the option to come and visit both the puppy and the breeder in person! Golden Retrievers are an adaptable breed, meaning they are better at adapting to seasonal changes and various types of climate than certain other breeds. Goldens sport a double-coat, which ensures that these sweet pups are able to tolerate slightly colder temperatures than their friends from other breeds. Your pup deserves better than that, which is why here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we ensure high-quality care is taken of your pet at all times. For more about the true price of a golden retriever puppy, you can read our full price breakdown here. Location Information for Iowa Customers Our home office is located in Ohio, but we understand that long-distance travel can be inconvenient. If you prefer to meet a breeder in person, they may be able to offer private visits at their home. Of course! Here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we value family and authenticity, which is why we always guarantee our pups through our 2-year genetic health guarantee. Like adopting a Golden Retriever from a pet store, there is an increased risk when adopting a pup from a rescue center or shelter as well. For example, pups purchased through a shelter or rescue center are far less likely to come with the kinds of health guarantees and reassurances that a breeder can provide. What type of Golden Retrievers are sold in Iowa? We have some good news! Ready to make your Golden Retriever dreams come true? Take a look at our convenient list of available puppies. How do I know which breeders to trust in Iowa? Our independent network of trusted breeders have already been pre-screened and verified, so that you can focus on what really matters: choosing your dream puppy. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. We have imported our dogs from the top European kennels with the intent to produce high-quality, well-balanced, and wonderful temperament English Cream Golden Retrievers. Our puppies are whelped and raised in our home in an effort to make their environment as close to your home as we possibly can. Our four legged family We have invested heavily professionally and personally, in an effort to produce puppies that we can be proud of and can entrust to your family. We also care a great deal about the people who adopt our puppies and offer a month health guarantee and pre-screen all potential owners through our puppy application process. Please take a look at the championship bloodlines of our adult dogs and understand that this means you are receiving puppies with characteristics defined by the English Cream Golden Retriever standard. Not only will your puppy look like the breed standard, it should also have the best possible start at a healthy life. But…our adult dogs also have several nick-names as well, and they respond to all of them, I might add! Comment below. See MoreSee Less.

Andrex is a British brand of toilet roll. It is owned by the American company Kimberly-Clark. The brand Andrex is also used by Kimberly-Clark in the Hong Kong market, with products from their Taiwanese factories though wet wipes are imported from South Korea , [3] [4] along with the brands Scott , Kleenex and Scotties. Its sister brand in the U. In Austria it is called "Hakle," and in Germany simply Cottonelle. Harrods department store in London sold the handkerchiefs exclusively. Before Andrex, brands such as Bronco and Izal produced products that were harsher. It was the first two-ply tissue. St Andrew Mills was taken-over by Bowater in , and in , Bowater formed a joint venture with the Scott Paper Company , Bowater-Scott, that specialized in tissue products, including Andrex. However, the original idea in was for a young girl to run through a house trailing a roll of Andrex. The television regulators did not approve this as they felt it encouraged children to be wasteful. Since then there have been different adverts featuring various puppies eponymously known as "the Andrex puppy". Factories in Flint and Barrow in Furness supplement production on the mainline product, along with the Puppies on a Roll, Aloe Vera and Quilts variations. Linkedin marked the 75th anniversary for toilet paper brand Andrex and marks the 46th birthday of the iconic Andrex Puppy. The original concept for the commercial campaign was to have a little girl running through her house trailing a roll of Andrex toilet paper behind him. However, television regulators blocked the idea as they considered it to be too wasteful. In the original spot, the Andrex Puppy pulled out a roll of Andrex all throughout the house to advertise the strength, softness, and length of the roll that makes the toilet paper so special and loved by people everywhere. Since the advert aired, there have been over adverts with puppies that have portrayed the Andrex puppy. Andrex has long been committed to training puppies to become guide dogs. A couple of years ago, the brand partnered with Guide Dogs UK Charity for the Blind and Partially Sighted to raise money to finance training 40 puppies as guide dogs. The money was raised through sales of a limited-edition soft toy Andrex Puppy with portions of the sales going towards the charity. Hey there, animated pooch! Spoiler alert: the digital version of the Andrex Puppy gets into just as much toilet paper trouble as his real-life counterpart! Toilet paper quickly unravels towards him and a small Labrador puppy suddenly accompanies the older dog.