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Christina Tuesday 18th of April You say to expect to pay a lot for a well bred merle Frenchie from a reputable breeder but there is no such thing. If a breeder breeds Merle frenchies then that proves they are nor a reputable breeder, and it's not a well bred dog. It's not even a frenchie. The only way to get a Merle is to cross breed with a breed that naturally carries Merle Claire Johnson Sunday 28th of May Christina, these is no such thing as a well bred merle Frenchie. The terms are mutually exclusive. There are numerous health issues associated with this color. Do your research. This article even says that there's more health problems associated with Merle. So how is it a lie? Also please don't dilute the term gaslight. If you don't know what it means please don't use it. A purpose bred mutt is one thing. But cross breeding with a breed that already has substantial health issues to get a not naturally occurring colour associated with even more health issues does NOTHING to benefit the breed. It is irresponsible, has a hugely negative impact on the breeds longevity, and dilutes the breed so preservation is more of an issue. Buying Merle frenchies is is just paying way too much for a mutt, that's likely gonna have a rough life, and it supports backyard breeding which should be made illegal at this point. If you want a Merle dog, get a breed where Merle is naturally occurring. Christina Tuesday 18th of April Renee, if it's Merle, it's not a frenchie. Frenchies can't be Merle without crossbreeding. You esentially have a backyard bred mutt. There's no such thing as a well bred Merle frenchie. And no reputable breeder will breed designer colours not naturally occurring in the breed. I own 2 beautiful French Bulldog merles and they are healthy and sweet. I wasn't looking for a merle but based on their disposition and excellent health I couldn't go home with one. I am not breeding or showing but only loving them crazy. FrenchieWiki Community. Color variations Blue merle French Bulldog Blue merle French Bulldogs are one of our most sought-after puppies of all the colors. They got their name after the blue patches on their light-colored coat, which are essentially grey with a bluish shine in the light. The shade of the grey parts may vary from very light to almost black, while their base color also ranges from a yellowish cream color to light grey. Lilac merle French Bulldog Lilac merle French Bulldogs are often mistaken for blue merle Frenchies, but they are much more unique and harder to come by. Lilac merle Frenchies have very light, almost ashy or silver colored patches on their light coat. To produce this rare and beautiful color, the parents have to carry the blue, chocolate and merle gene. Lilac merle French Bulldogs usually have light-colored eyes which are glowing red. Chocolate merle French Bulldog Chocolate merle French Bulldogs have dark brown mottled patches all over their light-colored bodies. Choco merle pups also have unique genetics so they are quite rare and hard to come by. Similarly to lilac Frenchies, they are the combination of blue and chocolate but their grey shade is more of a champagne color. Breeders have managed to mix in the merle gene as well producing the Isabella merle French Bulldog, but these dogs are extremely rare. Black merle French Bulldog Black merle French Bulldogs have black mottled patches often covering most of their bodies. Their base coat is also slightly darker than in other merle Frenchies, ranging from light grey to light brown. Fawn merle French Bulldog There are a number of different variations of fawn merle French Bulldogs, like blue fawn merle, lilac fawn merle or chocolate fawn merle. The dark patches these Frenchies have are less distinct looking than in other merles, as they are only a bit darker than their light fawn base color. One of these rare traits is their sparkling blue eyes. Since the merle gene affects the skin pigment as well, when a merle patch crosses the eye area the Frenchie will have bright forever blue eyes. Sometimes only one of the eyes will remain blue, which is a phenomenon called heterochromia. Because of how dominant the merle gene is, merle Frenchies should only be bred to a dog with a solid coat color. They are insanely affectionate making them the perfect companion dogs, they just want to spend every minute of their time with their owners. They are extremely friendly with kids and other animals too; they love basically anyone they meet! Thanks to their easy-going nature, a Merle Frenchie will adapt to your lifestyle very quickly no matter where you live. As you might expect, colors that are considered common for the breed have the lowest prices, while colors which are more unique and harder to produce are more expensive as well. When it comes to Merle French Bulldogs, they are already in a higher price range, but depending on the color variation their prices may further vary a lot. Permanent blue eyes also push the prices up a bit: we charge USD per blue eye.

They are dedicated to preserving the Johnson bloodline in its original state. They make sure that the dogs they breed are physically and mentally stable, possess high drives, and are highly athletic, so the litters will also exhibit these traits. The pups are thoroughly socialized and registered by ARF from the moment they are born. They guarantee all of their produced pups against genetic defects, with a replacement pup from any of their succeeding planned breeding. The guarantee stands for two years but will be void if the dog produces offspring before they reach two years of age. They are a small farm operation located in the middle of the Ozarks. Their dogs are not caged and are allowed to run around and play in their fenced yard. The pregnant American Bullies relocate into a climate-controlled maternity room two weeks before their due date. The newborns remain in a whelping box with their mother until they open their eyes and begin to move around. The front panel comes off the whelping box after 10 to 14 days, and the pups are allowed free range of the maternity room. When the newborns reach four weeks old, they transfer the pups to the front maternity room, where they have free access to the outdoors via a doggie door. By the time the pups reach six weeks, the payment should be fully-paid. When the puppies reach eight weeks old, they are allowed to go to their new homes. Before being released, their shots and deworming are up-to-date. The American Bulldog puppies also come with a written health certificate provided by their licensed veterinarian. They have been breeding American Bulldogs for over 16 years. With a dog barn standing on a ten-acre land, the American Bulldog puppies of this breeder have plenty of room to run around and play. Their dog barn is equipped with indoor and outdoor living spaces and play spaces. The kennel also has a heating and cooling system as well as a fly spray system. The puppies are well-socialized with their children, family, friends, and guests who visit the kennel. Top Dog specializes in the blue XL American Bulldog but has all the other colors like the rare lilac purple-blue tri Bullies. They produce pups with a calm temperament, blocky heads, and thick, broad, and big-boned bodies. Their American Bulldog puppies for sale come with a written health card, up-to-date shots, and wormers. They are also microchipped and UKC-registered. They also provide a puppy datasheet, starter food, and puppy pack. Top Dog believes that the pups and dogs deserve to be spoiled with comfort and love. Life Span Did You Know? The American Bulldog is a descendant of a generic bulldog type of dog breed brought into the region that is now the Southern United States by working-class immigrants many years ago. These were all-around working dogs used by small farmers and ranchers for several tasks around the farm. They were often found working as catch dogs, stock dogs, and overall farm guardians. When feral pigs were introduced to the New World, they had no natural predators and the population quickly grew out of control. In addition to their farm duties, the settlers found the bulldog-type dog to be the best solution they had for dealing with it. So, the bulldog continued to thrive, especially in the South. Johnson and Alan Scott that we have what we know today as the American Bulldog. Modern American Bulldogs can still be found working as all-around utility dogs, farm dogs, catch dogs, cattle drovers, and more. They can also be found competing in dog sports, working as a guardian, police, or military dog, and are also popular as a family pet. This dog breed is a sweetheart with a gentle, fun-loving nature. The American Bulldog is affectionate and adores their families. They also love children and tend to be good with other animals. American Bulldogs can have a high prey drive, so you will want to make sure you introduce and socialize them properly with other small animals in the household. Due to their protective nature, they can be aloof towards strangers and strange dogs, especially when they are younger. Early socialization can help them be more comfortable navigating their guardian instincts. Overall, this dog breed tends to be confident, social, and are most at ease and relaxed when they are with the people they love. American Bulldogs are an emotional dog breed and thrives on human attention and affection, so they tend to bond strongly with their owners and may come across as clingy sometimes. They will also often convince themselves that they are lap dogs regardless of their size, so make sure you are ready for a lot of love and cuddles with your American Bulldog, drool and all! The American Bulldog is a moderately adaptable dog breed. They are strong, high-energy working dogs that love being around their favorite humans. This makes them better suited to larger homes with space for them to run. They are not generally a good fit for apartment living, but they can adapt as long as they get more than enough exercise and attention. Because they do tend to bond strongly with their owners and want to be near them, they do not tend to do well with long periods of time alone. As with any dog breed, they are sensitive to extreme heat or cold, but can adapt to well to most climates. There are some health issues that can be found in specific genetic lines and are not common to the breed overall, but these can be ruled out with genetic tests. Some potential health conditions to be aware of in general with the American Bulldog include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, thyroid disorders, kidney disorders, bone cancer, and eye-related issues like ectropion, entropion, and cherry eye. Talking to the breeder about the genetic history of the parents and asking to see any health clearances can help allay potential concerns. American Bulldogs are highly trainable and eager to please, so they are a good fit for owners of any experience level, including first-time dog owners. They can have a stubborn streak, so a first-time dog owner may want to consider enrolling in puppy training classes. As with any dog breed, early and ongoing training and socialization are important for your American Bulldog puppy to grow into a well-rounded, and a well-behaved, dog. This dog breed has a short coat that is generally smooth. Common coat colors are white and predominately white with patches of brindle, black, or red. More coat color patterns are emerging and becoming more common like all shades of brindle, fawn, brown, red, and more. The American Bulldog is relatively low maintenance and easy to groom and they are light to moderate shedders. They only require a bath as needed. But, you will need to be prepared to deal with some extra drool! Floppy ears tend to trap moisture and dirt, which can lead to ear infections. The ideal dental care for dogs is using an enzyme toothpaste or brushing their teeth every day. Dental hygiene chews or treats, a specially-formulated dental care diet, and more can be used to supplement your dental care efforts. The American Bulldog is an athletic and high-energy dog breed. They love daily walks and plenty of playtime outside. They may even enjoy plenty of other activities with you like swimming, hiking , and more. With their working dog background, this dog breed does need a job to do in order to stay happy and healthy. They also tend to be a good candidate for dog sports like obedience, weight pulling, the Iron Dog competition, and more. A fully-grown American Bulldog usually stands inches tall at the shoulder and weighs between pounds. An American Bulldog generally lives for years. Chance, one of the canine stars from the Homeward Bound films, was an American Bulldog. Featured American Bulldog Article. We specialize in Bully-type, also sometimes referred to as Johnson American Bulldogs. However on occasion we do produce fantastic standard- and hybrid-type American Bulldogs. We breed for functional and balanced temperament allowing for the American Bulldog to be a family member and a companion while having the drive and intelligence to perform desired functions. At Grand Future, we typically produce large American Bulldogs. Males range in lbs and females range in lbs. We have always bred to a significantly stricter breed standard than the current American Bulldog breed standards under U. Dogs with the following characteristics are not shown at conformation shows nor bred in our kennel: 1. Full black mask — this genetic trait is usually a result of another breed having been infused into the gene pool. Usually a dog with a kinked tail itself is not at risk of health complications as a result of the kinked tail. Teeth — dogs missing more than 3 teeth. Dogs lacking full pigmentation are more susceptible to various health problems. Lack of pigment is also responsible for deafness in dogs. We have never produced a deaf dog. Interested in a puppy? We have many repeat buyers — over 30 families have purchased 2,3,4, and even 5 dogs. Our dogs generally love children and have balanced temperament. Having produced over dogs in 7 generations, we have history and data that allows us to make some conclusions that we believe are significant. The very common problem of hip dysplasia that afflicts this breed is nearly non-existent in our kennel. Our dogs tend to have normal locomotion — good movement due to anatomically sound physical structure. Our dogs have never torn ligaments such as the Canine Cruciate Ligament CCL , which leads us to conclude that such problems are likely hereditary in nature. Our dogs have never prematurely died from heart problems, which leads us to conclude that such problems are likely hereditary in nature. Our dogs have never been diagnosed with tracheal hypoplasia — a hereditary genetic defect common in bulldog breeds that leads to potential deadly obstruction of the airway. Our dogs tend to live long. Our foundation dog lived to the age of 15 years and 10 months old. Our dogs have never been afflicted with cancer at a young age. The earliest instance of cancer has been encountered at 8 years of age by one dog. The remainder of cases have been documented at over 10 years of age. The biggest tragedy for an owner is in having to care for a sick dog as a result of poor breeding, and be absolutely helpless as that dog passes in their arms. Exorbitant medical bills end up being paid to prolong the time together even by just a little with the beloved family member. As with any animal breeding program, our kennel is not immune from problems. This drives us to continually improve. We maintain contact and help our owners in any way we can; even at 4AM or during a vacation since we have owners all over the world in various timezones. Our breeding expertise enables us to deliver healthy, beautiful, strong, and intelligent American Bulldog puppies. We provide a contractual health guarantee against the following genetic health problems — hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, Canine Cruciate Ligament CCL ruptures, cataracts, entropion, ectropion, heart, kidneys, thyroid, ichthyosis, cryptorchidism, epilepsy, and any neurological disorders including NCL. Our conversation with a prospective owner always involves questions to understand the kind of dog the person would like — the more details the better. If so inclined, the prospective owner can request guidance in picking the puppy based on personality and activity level, temperament, phenotype, and more. We evaluate our puppies at 6 weeks of age on a variety of parameters. We provide lifetime unlimited advice and guidance by phone to owners concerning all subjects relating to dog ownership. You can be sure you will have the information you need to succeed even if this is going to be your first American Bulldog puppy. Because we stand by the quality of our work, we want our owners to participate in our breeding program and we are happy to provide the necessary guidance. Our dogs are also ideal candidates for service animal work. Training a service dog requires a significant investment of time and money, making the genetic health and temperament of the dog even more critical. A service dog needs to be healthy, hassle-free, intelligent and receptive to training, have stable temperament to handle any type of environment, and of course lead a long life disease-free. All of these selective requirements for service dog candidates make Grand Future American Bulldogs an ideal fit. Join us in our mission of producing the best American Bulldogs possible! Professional worry-free shipping worldwide Of course our preference is for you to come visit our home, get acquainted with us, and pick up your new American Bulldog puppy in person. However, we understand that it is not feasible for everyone. Even if you do not live anywhere near Nevada, do not be concerned — we are highly experienced at shipping our American Bulldog puppies worldwide, as even just the list of our Grand Champions and Champions spanning 9 nations attests. We can prepare all necessary export documentation. Search this website.

So, in that respect, they are considered low shedders, especially if they happen to have a wavy fleece or curly wool coat. This effect is compounded by the fact that fur is far more dense, so there is simply more of it to be shed. Many dogs, including the Labrador Retriever, actually have both hair and fur. They have a longer hair coat as the top layer and a shorter fur coat underneath. This latter layer helps with temperature regulation and provides protection from the elements, among other things. To understand how much any given Labradoodle will shed, you have to know a little bit about genetics. What are the chances? Take a look at the table below. It really just depends on how its genes are expressed. To understand this better, think of yourself and your siblings as an example. Your mom may have blonde hair, and your dad may have dark brown hair. Genetics are never black and white. This is because he has more genes from the Poodle side. So, do F1B Labradoodles shed… much? This is the most likely scenario. Most people reported Excellent. You should settle for nothing less than daily brushing. Some quick Labradoodle shedding prevention grooming tips include: Settling for nothing less than daily brushing. This is especially important if your Dood has either a curly wool coat that is prone to tangles or a straight, silky one that is more likely to shed. Use a slicker brush to eliminate loose hairs, dirt, and dander, as well as to prevent matting. Being sure not to over-bathe your pet. Each time you wash them, you are stripping away these oils, drying out their skin and exacerbating the problem. However, less frequent bathing is great for washing dead hair and dander right down the drain. Use a shed-control shampoo for extra hydration action. We recommend these ones for Labradoodles. Booking them in for a trim. Regular haircuts are also the key to shed control success. These are pretty essential for most Doods and especially for Labradoodles because often if you leave it, their coat will just grow and grow! While some owners hand this job over to the professionals for convenience, others like to take on the task themselves. Some quick Labradoodle shedding prevention grooming tips include: Use a slicker brush frequently to eliminate loose hairs, dirt, and dander, as well as to prevent matting. Use a shed control shampoo when you bathe him. Make sure your Labradoodle gets haircuts often. Typically, people associate the shedding of fur with triggering allergies. In actuality, animal allergies are triggered by dander, which is just a fancy term for dead skin particles. For anything to be considered hypoallergenic, it must be relatively unlikely to trigger an allergic reaction. As such, the Labradoodle is almost totally hypoallergenic, making them a great choice for people with allergies, but again — it depends on the generation of the dog. The low-shedding hype is one of the key reasons people seek out Doodles of all kinds. Labradoodles are numbered among the top picks, likely because of the popularity of the Labrador Retriever as a family pet. However, there can be variation in shedding levels in these dogs depending on their genetic inheritance and their resultant coat type. That being said, Labradoodles come nowhere near close to losing as much coat as their Lab parents, so even if you end up with a higher-than-average shedder, this is perfectly manageable with a solid grooming routine. If you already have a Labradoodle, how is yours when it comes to shedding? Let us know in the comments below. Learn How to Upkeep Your Doodle! There are three types of coats that Labradoodles can have. A hair-coated Labradoodle is the least popular among people with allergies owing to the fact that it sheds the most out of the three types. This makes them the least hypoallergenic. The straight coat can vary in length and thickness, so you may have to take your dog to the grooming salon more often than you had anticipated. The muzzle area is usually hair coated and will be a good indicator of their coat type. Fleece or Wavy Coated Labradoodles Fleece-coated Labradoodles are the easiest to maintain compared to the other two types, making them the most preferable. Labradoodles with this type of coat experience minimal shedding, thus helping keep allergies at bay. This coat also requires the least maintenance. The fleece coat comes in three varieties — straight, loose curls, and very curly. However, just because this type of coat sheds the least does not mean you can skip the groomers. Whatever type of coat your Labradoodle may have, a visit to the groomers at least once every six weeks along with regular grooming at home is necessary for maintaining its healthy coat. This rich black coat is a fairly common Labradoodle shade. Labradoodles are a hypoallergenic breed of dog. As they grow, they also begin losing the coats that they are born with. This transition usually starts as early as 6 months of age but can even take until they are 12 months of age. Ideally, you should brush your pup slowly and carefully, reaching down to its skin to ensure that the old puppy coat is coming off. This will help the puppy coat to shed faster, remove any tangles from its fur, prevent matting, and help the adult coat grow healthier. The Labradoodle ranks 1 for being a hypoallergenic dog and specifically bred for it. A hypoallergenic dog poses a significantly lower risk of causing an allergic reaction. This is because dogs that are labeled as hypoallergenic shed little to no fur at all. The first Labradoodle was created for a blind Hawaiian lady whose husband had an allergy to dogs. Since then, the popularity of this breed has grown rapidly. Labradoodles shed less fur, resulting in much less dander, as they have coats that are easy to maintain. As previously stated, the process of a puppy coat shedding varies from pup to pup but typically begins when they are 6 months of age. While Labradoodles are a hypoallergenic breed, it does not mean a Labradoodle pup will never lose its puppy coat. Most furry dog breeds shed in the sense that they lose their fur regularly. This is not the case with Labradoodles. This Apricot Mini Labradoodle is looking up at the camera, because he thinks he might get a treat he did. A Labradoodle puppy does not shed its puppy coat overnight or within a few days. Losing the puppy coat is a gradual process that can take up to a year and a half until the new coat grows. To allow the adult coat to grow properly, the puppy coat needs to be shed entirely. This is also why brushing your Labradoodle puppy is so important. When brushing your pup, you will notice strands of hair falling out at first. Eventually, tufts of puppy hair will come out. The more you brush your dog, the more you will be pulling out the old hair to make way for new growth. If you do notice any signs or symptoms, make sure to visit the vet and take appropriate measures for treatment. How To Manage A Shedding Labradoodle Puppy Coat Once your Labradoodle puppy starts shedding its puppy coat, it is advisable that you brush your dog regularly and at least groom it a couple of times every week or during daily periods of excessive shedding. Different dog breeds shed differently, so if you think something is amiss, you can always consult your vet to get your pup checked out. However, to avoid such dire situations, you need to make sure that you groom and brush your puppy regularly to avoid any matting. Depending on the type of Labradoodle coat your pup will develop, you should ideally be brushing your dog at least once a week to prevent any matting or tangled fur. Comb When you brush the coat, make sure you brush in the opposite direction of the hair growth. This will allow you to remove the old hair better. Then, you can move on to brushing in the direction of hair growth. You can do this with a fine-tooth comb. Ideally, a wooden or stainless steel comb would be a good choice. Make sure you pick a comb with wide teeth on one end and fine on the other. Detangler As your pet grows into a new coat, the old hair can knot up. This is when a detangler is needed. A detangler will help you effectively de-knot the coat without causing any distress to your pet. This tool is designed to help loosen the tangles and mats while being super gentle on your pup. If you keep putting off brushing your pooch, the old puppy coat will not shed but the new coat will start growing in, which will result in matting. A de-matting comb will be your knight in shining armor in such cases. Over-shedding is one example of why your pup may require a full body checkup as complete hair loss is unhealthy. Labradoodle playing in a water fountain. What a way to cool off on a warm day! While some people may be genuinely allergic to certain dog breeds, allergic reactions are typically caused by the dander or allergens present in dog fur. Without any exception, all dog breeds produce allergens that are responsible for allergies. These allergens are usually found in the dander, hair, urine, and saliva of a dog. If your dog is cooped up indoors for too long, it is prone to producing more allergens. This is why it is essential to take your dog out regularly. While there is no fool-proof way of deducing the type of coat your Labradoodle will have, there are still ways you can perhaps make an educated guess. For example, an F1B Labradoodle typically has fleece fur. Tracing genetics will give you a clearer picture of the outcome you can expect. Another way is to inspect the fur around the muzzle and the face of your Labradoodle pup. In the case of a fleece-haired coat, however, you will be able to determine the type of hair it will have by the time your pup is almost five weeks old by checking the fur around its eyes. Do Labradoodles Shed, the non shedding dog. Do labradoodles shed? Do not believe that all labradoodles or Australian Labradoodles are non shed dogs, some shed and some do not. This result all depends on the parents, basically the answer depends on genetics. In addition, I need to define shedding, all dogs lose hair. Some have a fur coat and lose fur individually all day, more prior to hot weather. Fur grows to a set length then drops out then grows again to a set length and falls out, this is shedding. Some breeds have long fur and some short, this refers to the length it grows before falling out. Other dogs have a hair like human hair coat, like poodles, and will occasionally scratch or pull out small clumps of hair leaving a dust bunny around the house about once or twice a week. These dogs will need grooming or their coat will grow and grow very long. These dogs are considered non-shedding, more information is on the Labradoodle Coat section of our website. For details on what allergy friendly indicates please read our Labradoodles and Shedding section of this website. If your family wants a non shed dog, specifically you want at least a third generation or later Labradoodle OR Australian Labradoodle. Either can have a Fleece or Wool Coat. The details: Australian Labradoodle? If both parents of an Australian Labradoodle puppy do not shed your puppy should not. Selective breeding for the coat trait should result in a non shedding coat. It takes at least three generations to consistently produce non shedding results and even then a breeder can occasionally produce a slightly shedding dog due to recessive genetics. Currently we only breed Australian Multigenerational Labradoodles first a first generation Australian is 2 generations past an F1 to 4th generation because we feel this produces the most consistent offspring to our standards. We only breed fleece coat, non shedding and allergy friendly. The parents, grandparents and even great grand parents to your puppy are as non shed and allergy friendly as a dog can be. If you are looking at a third or fourth generation Labradoodle, and both parents and grandparents of a Labradoodle puppy do not shed your puppy should not. It takes at least three generations to consistently produce non shedding results and even then breeder can occasionally find a slightly shedding dog due to recessive genetics. Make sure you are not purchasing a dog that is sometimes called a Second Generation a first generation bred to a first generation. Some are super curly like a poodle and some are as flat coated and shed as much as a Labrador. This is due to short coat being a dominant gene. Labradoodle First Generation Lab bred to Poodle? Within the Labradoodle First Generation population there are primarily two different coat textures, flat coated which has a wiry feel and fleece coated with a harsh feel. There does not seem to be a connection between Labradoodle First Generation coat wave and shedding, so identifying which puppy will and will not shed as an adult is an educated guess at best for breeders. Usually a dog will shed its coat once it reaches a length predetermined by genetics. This is the reason we have long coated but still shedding dogs and short coat shedding dogs. Genetics predetermine what length the coat will grow and then shed. Poodles are considered non shedding as their coat will grow to the floor and still not fall out seasonally. For another example, a Puli is considered a non shedding dog as its coat is dread locked, grows to the floor then clipped. We would never recommend a F1 Labradoodle for a family needing a non shedding dog or with allergies to dogs. However, if you have a shedding labradoodle your best bet is to keep the dogs coat shaved short and feeding them the best of foods to reduce shedding as much as possible. Labradoodles and Australian Labradoodle dogs and puppies. I would expect your black labradoodle to be able to leap up onto your white couch, and you wont see lots of black hairs, although there may be a muddy footprint or two. We aim to breed dogs who will fit perfectly into your families, and not leave hair over your bed, couch, trousers or all over the house. All mammals shed a little hair, even humans, however we breed carefully so our pups are extremely low shedding. With three quarters of dogs in Australia being allowed inside, along with health, temperament and conformation, it is an important part of breeding very family friendly dogs. Puppy Coats All puppies have a really soft fur which serves to keep them warm when they are only little. Puppy coats within a litter differ, and they will also differ in some ways to their adult coats, which eventually replace it. Even pups which are very low or non shedding will have a puppy coat which will be replaced by their adult coat. The adult coats are usually thicker and fuller than puppy coats, but sometimes not quite as soft in the feel. However, during the initial 6 or so months of your puppy's life, the puppy coat will naturally shed out. The skin should continue to look healthy while this happens. This occurs with all dog breeds, even poodles. What To Do? Regular brushing during this young stage of the dogs life, will help remove the puppy coat, and also has lots of other benefits: Bonding with your dog. They love being brushed, and will learn to sit quietly and enjoy the interaction. Preventing Matting It is important that your dog never gets matted. These can be very uncomfortable and difficult to remove and brush out. Regular brushing prevents this. Good chance to remove ear hairs and check for ear health. Prevent the puppy coat from going all over your house, as much will come out in the brush. How often do you need to clip your dog? Groomers suggest not to clip the body of the dog until it is about 6 months of age. It is believed that clipping the coat short before the adult coat has grown will result in a more tightly curled adult coat. With regards to frequency of clipping, we do ours about 5 x a year. What to look for in a groomer Groomers vary widely in what they will offer in terms of price, style, and especially quality of jobs such as plucking ears and clipping toe nails. Some groomers just do a short, simple clip, others will spend hours over a scissor cut or getting a breed clip just perfect. These are just as important as a good clip. Read our section on Ear Care. Shampoo time! It is really up to you to decide how often to shampoo your pup. We do ours about every two weeks. If your dog rolls in something unsavoury, or has a digging session in the garden, you may need to do him more frequently. There are lots of good shampoos on the market. We prefer an unscented, paragon free natural soap such as Castile soap available from health food shops. Drying, Blowing Dirt or sand from coats Human hair dryers are not good for dogs. They are too hot and a very high pitch which many dogs dont like. They are also really ineffective in comparison to a blast dryer, such as the one on the right. Picture is off the web - not one we have used, so please do your own research. The nozzle shown on the far right thin and wide is the one we would recommend. There is no need for a heating unit. These will separate the fibres in your dogs coat far better than brushing. They will also blow out sand after a trip to beach, or dry your dog in minutes after a bath. To us these are essential if you have a dog. Learning to Love Being Groomed Here is Milo, who has had the best of starts, and learnt to lay quietly and enjoy a pedicure. Start young desensitising your pup to having toes, ears, mouth etc played with, and you will have a dog who is easy to groom and enjoys the experience. As you might have guessed, this dog is a cross between poodle and Labrador parents — and the result is an adorable bundle of joy with a sweet, gentle personality. Labradoodle puppy coats come in a range of colors and textures, so labradoodle owners are spoiled for choice when choosing their fur baby. Read on to discover more about Labradoodles and labradoodle coat types. What Are Hypoallergenic Dog Coats? Hypoallergenic dogs have less of a thick coat than many other breeds. A highly shedding coat presents a higher risk to allergy sufferers than non-shedding dogs like a labradoodle puppy. As a dog with one of the most allergy-friendly coats , there are a few practicalities to keep in mind when it comes to your labradoodle pooch and its coat. Pretty much every labradoodle puppy goes through a coat change, which is separate from a shedding coat. The puppy coat is eventually replaced by an adult coat, which comes with more grooming requirements. Types of Labradoodle Puppy Coats One of the best things about labradoodle dogs is the wide range of choices with regard to appearance. Wool Coat You can determine if your Labradoodle puppy has a fleece coat. You can identify fleece coats by the way the fur sits between the eyes, as this area starts to get curly first. This is the curliest coat type, but it still comes in a variety of types. Some dogs with a curly coat have a cotton-type coat, which is the softest but also incredibly high maintenance. Labradoodle puppies with wool Labradoodle puppy coats are mainly non-shedding and can make great companions for pet owners with allergies. Fleece Coat Doodles with a fleece coat require a little less maintenance than the other types of doodles, but they still need weekly brushing and plenty of TLC. A fleece-coated labradoodle is the result of combining a curly wool coat gene with the gene for a straight coat. Areas such as the ears and collar are particularly prone to getting matted, so be sure to pay close attention to these areas when you brush your fleece-coated labradoodle once or twice per week. Hair Coat A labradoodle with a straight coat has inherited most of its fur genes from its Labrador retriever parent. Something interesting about Labradoodles is that their Labradoodle puppy coats change as they get older, so your hair-coated labradoodle might get a wave to its fur as it gets older. While you can also take it to a professional groomer on a weekly basis, this can incur hefty grooming costs. Most labradoodle owners opt to take their dog to a groomer once a month or two and do regular adult coat maintenance themselves. Use the correct type of dog brush and be sure to get all the way down to the skin. Give your dog a brush before and after bath time. All puppies eventually lose their puppy coat to make way for their adult coat, this goes the same with Labradoodle puppy coats. You might find the new type of coat is totally different from the old coat. Coats and Generational Differences The amount of hair your dog sheds varies between puppies, but generational differences can also play a role. First-generation doodles shed slightly more than second-generation doodles, with multigenerational Labradoodles shedding even less. We genetically test each breeding parent to make sure the shedding genes are not passed on to the puppies in our training program. We adore the breed and have a wide range of Labradoodle puppies for sale to choose from, with different color and type of Labradoodle puppy coats. We can even deliver a fully trained doodle puppy direct to your door if you like! Will my Labradoodle shed too much? Do Labradoodles Shed? One of the most popular hypoallergenic dogs available, the Labradoodle breed is often marketed as being a great option for people with allergies. Unfortunately, hypoallergenic is simply a marketing term. However, curly haired dogs shed less than straight furred dogs. Which means less dander spread around the home and onto your skin. Labradoodles that inherit tighter curled fur will exhibit this trait. Why Do Dogs Shed? Dog shedding is a natural process for dogs, just as it is for you every time you brush your hair. Hair is constantly dying and regrowing, so even dogs with minimal amounts of hair — or dogs that are almost entirely hairless — will shed at least a little bit. This shedding often includes dead skin cells, too. Some breeds of dogs, like Labradors, not only have a top coat of hair but also a shorter undercoat. This undercoat is what keeps your dog warm in cold weather. This is the layer that is the most likely to undergo seasonal shedding. As your pet prepares for cooler or warmer weather, he or she is likely to shed some of the undercoat. You should brush and comb your dog at least once a week — twice is better. Also, it can lessen the amount that ends up on your furniture or floors. You should purchase a brush that is designed to de-mat your dog. These are known as dematting rakes. A wide tooth comb will also do the trick. You might be unsure of how to groom your Labradoodle to reduce shedding at first. It may also be helpful to vacuum frequently. Although you can probably get by with vacuuming once a week during most seasons, it may be helpful to vacuum three times a week during the heavy shedding periods. You might also need to replace air filters. If your allergies are particularly bad — or if you find that your dog sheds more than you expected — you can always close off certain rooms or pieces of furniture to your dog. This can isolate the impact of the shedding to a small area of your home. This can make the shedding more manageable to deal with. Labradoodle Haircuts You might not be interested in giving your Labradoodle the kind of glamorous haircut for which Poodles are notorious, but giving your dog a regular haircut can help reduce the amount of shed fur in your home. Frankly, short hair will be easier for you to maintain, too. This depends on whether it is more like a Poodle or more like a Labrador. This trait may carry through to your Labradoodle, too, depending on its genetics. Do Labradoodles Shed Too Much? The answer to that question is ultimately up to you. There is a great deal of variation in the shedding of Labradoodles within the breed. While some shed a lot — like Labradors — others produce minimal amounts of dropped fur — like Poodles. A Labradoodle puppy! Partly thanks to that gorgeous fluffy coat. When do Labradoodles Lose their Puppy Coat? It is quite a gradual process. The process typically starts around 6 months of age. But, it can take up to a year and a half to complete. This may not be great news if you or someone else in your family suffers from dog allergies. But, as long as your Labradoodle grows up to have a fleece or wool coat, you will have less shed fur to clean once the puppy coat has fully shed and the adult coat grows in. What is a Labradoodle Puppy Coat Like? The Labradoodle puppy coat is a lot different to all adult varieties. Puppy coats are always single layer. Are Labradoodle Puppy Coats Hypoallergenic? After their creation, the resulting demand for an allergy-friendly dog catapulted Labradoodles to worldwide fame. It also led to the development of many other hybrid dog breeds. The truth is, there is no such thing as a hypoallergenic dog. So, Labradoodle puppy coats cannot be hypoallergenic. So, your Labradoodle puppy coat will not catch any falling dander. Allergens could still find their way onto other objects in your home. And, their shedding puppy coats could aggravate your allergies. Adult Labradoodles can have one of three coat types: Hair coat — will shed moderately all year, and heavily during shedding seasons Fleece coat — will shed lightly to moderately, varies from one Doodle to the next Wool coat — does not shed visibly, but hair sheds into the surrounding coat, which can cause painful knots if not groomed properly Influence from Parent Breeds Labradoodles come from a long line of working dogs; primarily the Labrador Retriever and the Standard Poodle. Labrador Retrievers typically have a double coat. Their fur has an insulating under-layer and a protective outer-layer which helps them in their working roles. The Poodle, on the other hand, is one of the rare working breeds with a single layer coat. Are Adult Labradoodle Coats Hypoallergenic? The fleece type of adult Labradoodle coat will often be best for individuals that suffer from allergies. But, this will still need regular grooming to control shedding dander. And, regardless of which adult coat your Doodle has, your dog will still need to shed out their puppy coat first. Suddenly, you will find tufts and clumps of shed dog hair everywhere, where before there was none. This can start as early as six months. So, watch out for shed fur from this age. It could start anywhere from six to nine months, or even slightly outside of this range. The puppy coat has to be completely shed out to allow the adult coat to grow in. That would leave your Labradoodle defenseless against pests, the elements, and injury. Instead, their coat will shed in stages, over time. This is why it can take up to a year and a half for the puppy coat to fully shed out and the adult coat to fully grow in. Depending on the adult coat your Labradoodle inherits, these hairs may be long and straight hair coat , long and loosely curly fleece coat , or short and tightly curled wool coat. In most cases, a Labradoodle will have fully lost their puppy coat and grown into their adult one between the ages of 12 and 15 months. But, there is no exact timer that buzzes the moment this process is finished. But, some veterinarians may be happy for you to cut it short with scissors, to keep your cleaning schedule for shed fur a little more manageable. Not only will this help you to gather and remove shed fur before it goes all over your floor, but it will also familiarise your Labradoodle with the grooming process. All three types of adult Labradoodle coat require regular grooming. Are you dealing with a shedding puppy coat right now? We would love to hear about your experiences with the Labradoodle puppy coat in the comments. Related Articles. What to expect in the early days. Crate training, housebreaking, and reward-based training. Exercise guidelines and mental stimulation. The importance of correct socialization. General health and nutrition. Shedding and grooming. And so much more. You will save you time, money, and loads of frustration…take my word for it! Get Your Copy Today! We use this stainless steel Poodle comb. One side is narrow and the other wide. It works great! We use this Safari De-Matting Comb. Detangler — This can be used along with the comb or de-matting comb to help loosen problem tangles and mats. You can find some of our favorite grooming tools and supplies here. Do Labradoodle Puppies Shed? For instance, a German shepherd will shed its coat twice a year. Shepherds are amazing dogs, very different from Labradoodles in many ways, not just shedding. Learn more about them in these articles. Matting is a clump of tangled hair that is difficult to comb through. If they get too serious, a groomer will have to cut out patches of hair. Genetics plays a part in determining how much hair a Labradoodle will shed or lose. Second F1b generation, third-generation F3b and multigenerational Labradoodles are going to shed less than a first-generation Labradoodle F1. Some owners will actually look for a second, third, or multigenerational Labradoodle dog just for the non-shedding or low-shedding attributes. Read this for a more detailed look at multi-generational Labradoodles. Australian Labradoodles are usually a good choice for people looking for asthma and allergy-friendly dogs. Of the various types of Labradoodles, the wool-coated Labradoodle has had the highest success rate for people suffering from asthma or dog-related allergies. They go through a coat change where their puppy coat changes to an adult coat. When this shedding process begins, the coat will begin to fill out and will get thicker. If the puppy is not brushed daily, the coat will become very matted and tangled. The more hair you see coming out in the brush, the better the puppy will look. Other owners use this opportunity as a way to bond with the dog and become familiar with the brushing process, which should become a regular part of their lives. The age at which Labradoodles stop shedding their puppy coat depends on the age it began the shedding process. It can take from a week to several weeks, and every dog does it at a different age. One puppy may be shedding its puppy coat between the ages of months while another may be from months of age. If you suddenly realize your Labradoodle puppy is in need of a good haircut, the pup has probably begun the shedding process. Changing from a puppy coat to an adult coat can bring an entirely different color texture and overall appearance. All dogs create allergens or proteins, which are what usually cause allergies. What are the Different Types of Labradoodle Coats? Labradoodles have three types of coat: hair, fleece, and wool. There are two reasons for this. One reason is that Labradoodles come in many, many different colors. Secondly, while there are only three types of coats, there is some variation within the different coat types. Depending on the length and density of the hair, Labradoodles with a hair coat should be brushed at least once a month. Due to its resemblance to the Labrador Retriever, the hair coat is the one that sheds the most and will be the least hypoallergenic. Fleece The fleece coat may be normal fleece or microfine fleece. Normal fleece has the texture of soft angora and may be wavy or have loose spirals. In addition to being brushed every couple of weeks, this coat requires trimming once or twice a year. Also wavy or spirally, the microfine fleece is very fine and super soft. Because of the texture, it tends to get matted easily. It will need a good brushing or combing at least once a week. The coat should also be trimmed a couple of times a year to prevent it from growing past three inches. Both types of fleece coats are said to be asthma- and allergy-friendly coats. Wool The wool coat comes in three types: original wool, cotton wool, and loose or new style wool. Cotton wool is super dense, may be straight or curly and is the softest of the three wool coats. When groomed, it stands up and often has the appearance of a big cotton ball. Each of these wool types are asthma- and allergy-friendly coats with the original wool having the most success in this area. All three require regular trimming. You can find even more information on Labradoodle coat types in this article. Still have questions about your puppy? Be sure to grab your copy of our Labradoodle Guidebook to find the answers and get your puppy on his way to becoming a well-adjusted, affectionate, happy adult. Related Questions: What is an Australian Labradoodle? How many years do Labradoodles live? Labradoodles are a relatively healthy breed of dog. While they are susceptible to some canine diseases , a healthy Labradoodle will generally live to be 11 to 14 years old. Related Posts:.

More than other breeds, the bulldog mother may need your help with nursing, feeding and weaning pups. Bulldog Pregnancy and Birth A typical bulldog pregnancy lasts around 63 days. The bulldog's physical shape means that many dogs are unable to give birth to their puppies without assistance -- the female bulldog's pelvis is very narrow and each puppy's head is very large. When puppies are born by caesarean section, the mother dog does not get the full physical and hormonal cues telling her body that the puppies have been born. After a caesarean section, you will need to milk the mother dog's colostrum to feed the newborn pups. This special milk, produced only for a short time after birth, contains antibodies that are important to the health of the newborn pups. If the mother's colostrum is unavailable, you can substitute a commercial colostrum formula. Twenty-four hours after being born, the puppies can drink commercial puppy milk formula if the mother is unable to nurse. Ideally, the puppies will nurse from their mother as soon as possible after being born. Those puppies nursing within the first 12 hours after being born have the best survival chances. Nursing Schedule In the first four to five days, newborn bulldog puppies need to nurse every two hours. It may look as though the pups are feeding more often -- or even constantly -- because not all the mother dog's teats will carry milk at the same time. As they get older, they will need to feed less frequently. Make sure that all the puppies get their turn at the teat during feeding time -- sometimes the larger or stronger pups will push aside smaller or weaker puppies. Bottle Feeding If you are bottle-feeding the puppies, you'll need to do so every two hours, day and night, until they are 6 days old. After that, the puppies can go to a feeding schedule of six to eight feedings every day until they are 3 weeks old, and four feedings daily beyond that point. At each feeding, a puppy should receive 1cc of prepared formula milk for every ounce of its body weight. Transition to Food Around 1 month after birth, puppies typically start eating some soft foods, although they will continue to nurse from the mother until they reach 8 weeks old. As puppies start eating soft foods, you will need to clean out each puppy's facial wrinkles -- the puppies and the mother may be unable to clean their wrinkles completely. If soft food gets stuck in a puppy's wrinkles, it may develop infection or sores. Typically, the mother dog will start to wean the dogs between 5 weeks and 7 weeks after birth. At this point, you can start introducing hard foods such as puppy kibble. More Articles. Fortunately, the mother dog will likely take great care of the puppies and you won't have to intervene too much, although there are a few things you can do to assist her and to make sure the puppies are given the utmost care. Provide a suitable environment for the mother English Bulldog and her puppies. Most likely, the mother will spend most of her time in one area, typically the spot in which she gave birth. It is your responsibility to keep the towels, sheets and other bedding clean, as the puppies will constantly eliminate on them. In addition, provide fresh food and water to the mother. Keep the puppies warm. While most puppies will snuggle against their mothers to keep their body at the right temperature, you can help the process by keeping the whelping area nice and toasty. The PetPlace website suggests using electric bulbs to keep the area .Then around five to 10 days, slowly reduce the temperature to .By the fourth week, the puppies should be comfortable in 75 degree weather. Watch the mother Bulldog closely for signs of overheating. English Bulldogs are prone to becoming too hot and may vomit, become lethargic or faint as a result. If the mother starts to display any of these signs or acts differently, contact your veterinarian immediately. Your English Bulldog just brought a litter of puppies into the world and you may be wondering how you are going to care for these tiny tykes. Closely monitor your English Bulldog puppies' breathing. Because of their short noses, English Bulldogs are susceptible to breathing issues. Any puppy that seems to be breathing abnormally or is having difficulty should see a veterinarian immediately. Feed the puppies mush when they are about 3 weeks old. The Doctors Foster and Smith website recommends placing 2 cups of high-quality puppy food in a blender with ml of puppy replacement milk. Fill the rest of the blender container with hot water. Process the mixture until it reaches the consistency of human infant cereal. Place the mush in a large pizza pie pan or other low-sided container and allow the Bulldog puppies to eat. Do this about three or four times daily. Bulldog puppies have noses that can easily become blocked with food, therefore, check the noses and clear them of any mush after every meal. Take the English bulldog puppies to the veterinarian when they reach 6 to 8 weeks of age. The doctor will administer vaccinations, as well as worming medications. The vet will also begin examining for defects that are common in English bulldogs, such as skin problems and hip dysplasia. TIP Keep the electric bulbs suspended in the air and far enough away so that the puppies and mother cannot come into contact with them. Below is baby english bulldog puppies week by week. Variables such as temperature, air movement, and nutrient intake must be tightly controlled. Puppies are kept separate from their mother to ensure they are not laid on nor neglected. Your English Bulldog Baby at this age, most often do not have their eyes open yet. Instead they rely on their sense of hearing to know where their mom is and the other littermates. Week 3 The third week of life is a big week as major, physical development and progress are made during this week. The baby bulldogs should begin cracking their eyes open and begin developing their new found eyesight. Increased visibility adds a small level of independence that is certainly appreciate. The young puppies are now able to locate their mother and nurse more consistently on their own. During this week, we most often make the decision to leave the litter with their mother permanently. Mom will take on the responsibility of not only nursing the puppies but also cleaning up after them. This also means we are able to get a full night of sleep! What do we look for in a good Bulldog mother? Bulldog mom has to have a genetically clean pedigree history. We make sure each bulldog line that we produce has the best chance to stay healthy and happy. Bulldog mom has to have a great personality. We demand that all the bulldogs we own are extremely confident and great with both children and other pets. Breeding bulldogs with great personalities is very important as many social traits are passed from the parents to the baby. Bulldog mom has to have a great maternal instinct. Because the babies are so vulnerable we try to select and keep female English Bulldogs that show endearing and caring traits towards their babies. Week 4 Week four is our walking week! While bulldog puppies do begin to walk earlier at times, typically during week four we begin to see some major walking. The new found mobility is a joy to watch but does present some different types of responsibility as our bulldog puppies certainly can get themselves into trouble! During this week, we will start to perform some basic socialization steps to ensure that they are prepared for their new homes. Week 5 The puppies are now able to run, chew, and yes, sometimes bite! With the physical progress there are certainly ample teaching opportunities to develop these little guys into well behaving bulldogs. During this time we continue to analyze each puppy socially and develop unique, social profiles of each bully. The puppies start to focus less on physical survival and devote much of their time to playing with their littermates. This is a great learning environment for the puppies! This mushy treat quickly becomes a favorite for the pups. A robust bulldog puppy can now weigh around 5 pounds. The puppies will also undergo their first round of vet checks to ensure they are developing physically sound bodies. Socially, we continue work with the puppies to ensure they are exposed to the many different environments of the new homes they will be going to all while balancing a high level of biosecurity to ensure they are not exposed to harmful diseases to ensure for a healthy English Bulldog! The puppies are now old enough and confident enough in themselves to begin developing expectations. Being held and being fed are no longer special occasions rather they are rights to life that are demanded. We continue to provide the high level of care that we hold ourselves to while developing flexibility within each bulldog pup. Week 8 The theme for week 8 is adoption preparation. We will make a decision with our vet the age in which the bulldogs are able to be taken home. The primary variable within this decision is physical development. Most of our bulldogs will go home right around the end of week 9 all the way to week .It simply depends on the bulldog. At this point we encourage our adopters to finish prepping for their puppy. Northern Indiana based, Bruiser Bulldogs offers purebred English Bulldog Puppies for sale to loving adopters seeking to find a higher quality English Bulldog. As English Bulldog breeders , Mitch and Erica Wysong have dedicated themselves to a lifelong journey of changing the culture and societal pressures of poor breeding practices within the English Bulldog Community. Mitch and Erica believe in producing a healthy English Bulldog puppy first and foremost. Through years of research and development, Bruiser Bulldogs is leading a new movement away from the overdone, wrinkled bulldog that has been long plagued by health problems. By embracing a healthier, more athletic look they are able to ensure that each and every English Bulldog Puppy for sale by Bruiser Bulldogs is supported by a platform of health tested, clean genetics. Upon adoption, each family that takes on the responsibility of a Bruiser Bulldog enters into an active and vibrant communal family of bulldog owners. Mitch and Erica believe it is their responsibility to provide emotional and mental support for the lifetime of each and every English Bulldog puppy they produce. To ensure the success of every adoption, Bruiser Bulldogs will always be committed to helping Bruiser Bulldog adopters care for their English Bulldogs to the best of their ability. I am familiar with common and uncommon health problems they may face so when my boyfriend and I decided we were ready to adopt our own english puppy finding a reputable breeder that prioritizes health was most important to us. Erica and Mitch of Bruiser Bulldogs are just that. They are experienced, ethical and quality breeders. I was referred to them by my friend that I trust after I saw their gorgeous healthy puppy. Our Puppy Primrose is the light of our lives! Bruisers was there to assist us every step of the way. We would highly recommend Bruisers Bulldogs to anyone looking for their own happy, healthy pup! Leah H. We were lucky to have come across Bruiser Bulldogs and even more so the fact that they were near our family and hometown made it even better. We have had Clementine Callie for four months now, and she is a wonderful dog. Her personality is amazing, and I think part of it is breeding and the other part is Erika and her family lovingly raising the puppies in their home with plenty of attention and snuggles. I also was impressed that, rather than send the puppies out right at 8 weeks, Erika kept ours for a few extra weeks because she was tiny and not read to leave her mom yet. It's that care that differentiates Bruisers from other breeders. Emily R. Erica was easy to work with thru the entire process from application to adopting and now beyond as we host our new family member, Chief. Her on-call support and willingness to provide open, honest advice to all of our questions and concerns continues to be appreciated. We would highly recommend Bruiser Bulldogs to anyone looking for an English Bulldog to join their family. Elizabeth W. Lady L. They are experienced, responsive and knowledgeable about all things bulldog related. They went above and beyond for us and are truly dedicated to all of their pups! We love our little girl so much and would recommend Bruiser to anyone looking for a healthy beautiful bully. Jonathan E. Erica and Mitch are trustworthy, excellent communicators, fair, passionate, and produce the best bulldogs. We were at the top of the waiting list for months and Erica reached out every litter to see if we were finally ready for a bulldog. When we were, she was very easy to work with. Her knowledge on bulldogs is outstanding. We had many questions on the process and she always knew what was best for the puppy. We've had Penny formerly Blair for two months and she is very healthy, energetic, playful, and sweet. She is great with other people and dogs. We are so happy with our pup. When we are ready for bulldog 2, we will only consider Bruiser Bulldogs. Mitch C. Bowser was born April and is an integral part of our family. When we were first exploring English Bulldog breeders our biggest concern was the overall health of the dogs. We decided to work with Erica at Bruiser Bulldogs because we liked their focus on improving the breeds breathing abilities and the fact that the puppies are raised within her family environment before coming home with their new owners. Bowser also breaths clearly and our vet was impressed with his overall health from the moment we brought him home. All that said we know English Bulldogs have a predisposition to many health issues and that his current health can not predict the future. With that In mind its important to start with a breeder that open to answer any of your questions as Erica has ours, and that strongly believes in improving the breeds overall health profile. Adam B. My sister ended up finding Bruiser Bulldogs and we knew right away that they were the breeder for us. In September we ended up driving 9 hours to pick up two Bruiser bulldog puppies- one for my husband and I and one for my mom. Jackson and Penelope have been nothing but a joy. They are both very athletic and healthy. They are also HUGE snugglers and always want to be with you. It is an absolute pleasure having these two bullies in our lives! Erica is very knowledgeable about the breed. She is very hands on throughout the process and is just overall a kind and honest person to work with. With all that being said I cannot recommend Bruiser Bulldogs enough! Collyn C. One of the reasons we chose Bruiser Bulldogs was due to the claims about breeding for health. During our first visit at our vet's office, he told us that our pup was one of the healthiest English bulldogs he had ever seen. He is healthy, happy and social. Would recommend to anyone. Christina S. We seen our dog on their website and sent them an Email. Mitch called us and personally walked us through the process and made sure we had the right dog for our family. We couldn't be happier when we picked up our dog Ramsey, Erica made sure we had everything we needed and then some. They are truly amazing people who breed truly amazing dogs! Jim T. The early care and environment of the English Bulldog newborn puppy are very important. Reasons a English Bulldog puppy might die early on are usually due to difficult whelping, congenital or genetic defects, environmental factors i. Things to have handy in case of an emergency: a box of Amoxi-Drops anti-diarrhea medication like Biosol, Kaolin-Pectin, or Neo-Pectilin thermometer Karo syrup or honey tube feeding kit 10 feeding tube and 10cc feeding syringe several cans of puppy formula like Esbilac; however, it is very important that a English Bulldog puppy get its mother's milk if at all possible during the first 5 days to protect it from infection and give it antibodies from the mother's milk You can purchase pre-made formula from your vet and outside of the mother's milk, it is best. However, the following formula is cheaper and provides all the nutrition. It's been used by many people and gives good results: l can Carnation evaporated milk some prefer canned goat's milk. Many use it instead of evaporated milk - both can be found in the bakery section of your grocery store. If this seems to be, change to bottled water to make the formula. Keeping the litter box tempature between degrees with no drafts for the first few days is usually adequate. Other sources of warmth can be heating pads or heat lamps. If using a heating pad, monitor the intensity of heat, as pups have been known to cook on pads set on high settings! There are many excellent heat lamps on the market, but remember that caution is needed. Heat lamps have been known to start fires! The temperature on the English Bulldog puppies 1 inch above the bottom of the box should be about degrees with a corner that is slightly cooler and allow them to scoot to wherever they like best. There should also be plenty of clean blankets, as this will allow for regulation of temperature. If a English Bulldog puppy has its mouth open, it's too hot. If a English Bulldog puppy is too cool, it often won't show anything - but it can be deadly. Hydration is one of the most important things to monitor in new bulldog pups, as it can be one of the first signs of problems. Check hydration by by pinching the skin on the back of the neck or on the top of the back. If the pinched skin stays creased, the English Bulldog puppy is dehydrated and needs fluid replacement. Also, a dehydrated bulldog pup's coat will sometimes have a ruffled or scruffy appearance. Dehydration can either be a result of inadequate nourishment, too much heat, or sickness. It is strongly suggested that you use regular newborn or infant bottles and nipples. The ones available for purchase for cats, dogs, ferrets, etc. Bottle feeding is far more preferable. The sucking on a nipple, the handling and holding of the English Bulldog puppy is so very important to their overall development. The English Bulldog puppy should be held with his head upwards and his body and tail down in a 45 to 90 degreee angle when bottle feeding. If English Bulldog puppies and their blankets are not kept clean, it is very easy to come down with a staph infection and diarrhea - which is serious, as bulldog puppies can go downhill quickly. As mentioned before, it is equally serious if the English Bulldog puppies get chilled so avoid drafts. Even if you have them in a basket with a heating pad, you need to cover the basket with a towel to keep out drafts. A chilled English Bulldog puppy must be warmed up. Put it in a pocket so that it's warm and jiggled as you walk around, or if you are a woman put it in your bra for your body heat. There are lots of little ways to accomplish it. Don't worry about feeding formula to a chilled English Bulldog puppy because it will have the opposite effect: their body cannot handle the food and makes it all the worse for the English Bulldog puppy. Priority should be to get the bulldog puppy warmed up slowly. Newborn English Bulldog puppies cannot regulate their body temperature or body functions like urinating and stools. It is important that they are pottied at each feeding. They might not have a stool each time, but they will urinate. This is what the mother does when she licks them. But some mothers don't want to be bothered, especially the first few days. After that, she will become a good mommy. Some might start off being good, then after a few days, or even a couple of weeks, not want to be bothered and might even be nasty to the puppies such as snapping and biting them. Always be careful and watch. Don't leave her alone until the bulldog pups are big enough not to be laid on, or big enough that you know that the bitch is a good mother. If the mother will not clean the babies, you must be sure to do it. Using a kleenex, gently rub the area to stimulate their potty. Then be sure to clean them well. Make sure to check them even if the mother cleans them. Often the stool will get stuck to the tail and be dry. If that happens, or if the English Bulldog puppy seems to be straining and constipated, try the following: Run warm water in the sink slowly. Put a drop of soap on their behinds, and wash and massage their behinds; it will get the tail and poop unstuck, clean them up, and cause them to potty very well. Make sure they are well rinsed, and dried thoroughly so they don't get chilled. If the little bottoms are red and sore, use some Desitin ointment. You may see green puppy stools and stools that have an appearance of bunches of tiny seeds. If all else seems normal, this seems to be harmless and short-lived. However, watery diarrhea can be very serious if left unchecked. There can be many causes, like the mother's diet, or infection. Diarrhea together with vomiting usually means infection. For the first 3- 5 days an average English Bulldog puppy ouncer will take about 10 cc's every hours. It should be broken into feedings every 2 hours 5cc per feeding. If it is a good sized bulldog puppy 1 lb. Towards the end of a week, you should increase the food needed to about cc or more. For the first week they should eat every two hours. If they are good size bulldog babies, you can sometimes go longer. By the second week, as long as you don't have any problems and they are of good size, you can usually go hours between feedings. An average weight for newborn English Bulldog puppies is around ounces. Good size puppies are oz.

One of the other considerations that go along with getting a free German Shepherd puppy is that there will be housebreaking requirements. Free German Shepherd Puppies Indiana You may be in the market to find German Shepherd puppies for sale, and looking on the Internet at free dog adoption sites can sometimes be your best bet. These are not always a scam, but you do have to take the time to find them. You could also check out your local pet store as well, but most of the time if they offer puppies at no cost, they will not be from puppies that were adopted or are going to be adopted. Also, remember that these dogs are going to have to go through training and be brought up with a set of very specific behaviors. When you look at free German shepherd puppies in Indiana, you are not guaranteed to find what you are looking for. There are many reasons why a breeder would want to offer their dogs up for adoption at no cost. They could be having financial difficulties, or they could have bad dogs that are sickly and need to be sent to live with another dog owner in the area. Most of these animals were either abandoned or put up for adoption by someone who could no longer keep them. Once the puppy has been checked over by the veterinarian, they will be to come up with an adoption fee. The fee is usually less than half of what you would pay for a dog at the local pound and sometimes even less. If they are free German Shepherd puppies for sale, there is usually no fee for the training that is needed before they are fully adaptable. These puppies need training just like any other puppy. As soon as the dog is fully grown, they are going to have to get a collar and tags. These are required by law in most places, and if you want to adopt one, you are going to have the collar and tags ready when you bring the puppy home. You can either get the collar and tags locally, or you can ask the people at the shelter if they know anyone that can help you with this. This is not a very big deal, and most of the shelters have plenty of people who are willing to help you. They also give you the option of buying a puppy that already has its collar and tags on. You can also look online to see if there are free German Shepherd puppies for sale anywhere in Indiana. The only thing to remember about finding free German Shepherd puppies is that you may come across some scams. There are people out there that are more than willing to take your money and run. When you find the puppies for sale, you need to make sure that you are checking the papers thoroughly. Different things are going to be checked for, like pedigrees and AKC records. If the puppy that is being offered for free is a purebred dog , it will have all of its paperwork in order, and it should be microchipped and have a tag that can be easily removed. There should also be an interview by the shelter workers. You will want to know what happened to the animal, and what type of health problems it had as a puppy. Ask questions if you have any concerns, and make sure that the dog you get is free from any kind of genetic defects. Most of these puppies will need to go to daycare and be cared for during the day. Make sure that you can meet these requirements, and that the daycare is located near you. It can be hard to travel long distances with a dog, so this is something that you will need to be prepared for. German Shepherds make wonderful pets, and they do make great parents. The longer you wait, the worse your financial situation will become. Get that free German Shepherd for sale today! Share this:. Find your perfect adorable puppy. Start exploring and find your perfect furry companion today! Step 2 Add to cart and complete your purchase seamlessly, securing your beloved item with just a few clicks! Step 3 Rest assured, we'll deliver your order right to your doorstep, ensuring a hassle-free and convenient experience for you. Step 4 Embrace the joy of life with your new furry companion, as you create unconditional love with the endless happiness they bring. View Our Process About Us Puppygram was established with the core mission of providing a seamless and stress-free experience for individuals looking to bring a healthy puppy into their lives. We take pride in our highly knowledgeable staff who are dedicated to assisting you in selecting the perfect furry companion. Our aim is to make the entire process easy, enjoyable, and tailored to your specific needs, providing comprehensive assistance from beginning to end. Jonathan J. Google Loved the experience. I am now the proud owner 2 healthy Golden retrievers. Thx puppyGram for making this experience a wonderful one! I will tell all my friends and family about this new store in Berkley, MI! Wonderful store and the best Staff! 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Google What an amazing experience! I came in to the store probably a half a dozen times! The staff was so pleasant, thoughtful and very educated! Thx PuppyGram Berkley for helping me add a beautiful new puppy to the family! The store has a beautiful layout where I played with the puppies for hours! Karla D. Google Gus and Alex were extremely kind, helpful and informative! I have been searching for years for the perfect puppy and company. Brian W. Google Employees were very enthusiastic about their job, were very patient with us, and were happy to work with us. Now a very sweet dog has a loving home with us. Tim H. Google Great experience all around! I will be telling all my friends and family about PuppyGram! We now have our brand new Cavapoo pup Daisy! Thx PuppyGram! Tiffani S. Google This was a wonderful experience. They worked with me and even stayed late to work out some issues. I received the vet history and they come microchipped. I would highly recommend them. Our Affiliates.

If you click and purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. Learn More The transition from a puppy coat to an adult one can come as a bit of a shock to novice owners and newbie pet parents. Some breeders choose not to mention it for fear of putting off prospective buyers. However, here we will let you know exactly what to expect when your Goldendoodle puppy coat transition happens. Types of Goldendoodle Coats All dogs are born with a soft, single-layer puppy coat, whether they later go on to develop a double-layered one or not. Goldendoodles are no exception. This smooth, silky hair then gives way to something that can be altogether trickier to manage. Knots, tangles, mats, and shedding can become real problems with some dogs. As you probably know by now, with a mixed breed, there are no certainties. Especially when the parent animals are so different. One half of the Goldendoodle equation, the Golden Retriever, has a dense, straight, water-resistant double coat. In contrast, the other half, the Poodle, has a curly, coarse, low-shedding single one. Depending on which parent they favor, Goldendoodles can inherit either of these coats or a wavy, fleecy, long one that sits somewhere in between the two. This is generally the most common and the most popular of the three. For more on Goldendoodle coats and the right tools for caring for them, take a look at The Absolute Best Brushes for Goldendoodles. Nature can be a bit of a lottery. We can, however, make a few best guesses based on the parents and what usually happens. One thing we do know for sure is that whichever adult coat your pup is destined to have, it will be altogether stiffer and denser than their puppy one. It could even be a different color, thanks to the Poodle Fading Gene. Breeders, however, do highlight a few telltale traits that could give you an early idea of what to expect: Check The Snout An excess of hair at the top of the snout known as a mustache indicates that your pup is likely to end up with a coat on the curlier end of the spectrum. Straighter, shaggier, beard-like hair suggests a wavier coat. If your dog has short hair here and an overall neat and tidy-looking muzzle, they will probably inherit a straight coat. Pay Attention to the Generation The generation of the dog can also provide a strong indication of what to expect. See Also: Click the image Goldendoodle Puppy Coat Transition Phases When it comes to changing from the puppy to the adult coat, there are no clear-cut transition phases. When and how pups blow their puppy coat varies from dog to dog. With most dogs, it tends to happen at around six months, and it can be either sudden or gradual. Some owners barely even notice — it all depends on the final hair type. However, you may start to notice a little more hair in the brush or a few more tangles around the armpits, tail, and ears. If your Goldie is getting more of a curly coat, you will need to be extra vigilant at this time. Shedding puppy hair can all too easily get caught up in tight curls leading on to painful knots and mats that are all but impossible to remove with a brush. A good rule of thumb with dogs is that with a low-shedding coat, you have to spend more time on brushing; with a high shedding one that time will be spent cleaning hair up off the floor or your clothes. Which Goldendoodles Get Puppy Coats? Pretty much every variety of Goldendoodle from Standard to Mini experiences some sort of coat change as they transition from puppy to adult. The switch from puppy to adult coat is also less noticeable with active dogs and particularly ones that spend a lot of time swimming. The water washes away the old hair as it is replaced with the new. It is not left about the house as it otherwise would be. This change could be pretty dramatic or quite subtle depending on the type of adult coat your pup has inherited. They will shed their puppy coat somewhere between four and eight months, and their stiffer, denser adult one will start to come in at this time. Do Goldendoodle puppies change color? While your pup is unlikely to completely change color on you, many Goldies get lighter as their adult coat comes in. This is known as fading. How do you tell if a Goldendoodle puppy will have furnishings? Furnishings refer to the hair features about the face. The best way to know if your Goldie will have furnishings is to pay attention to their generation. F1 Goldendoodles are most likely to be missing them. F1B dogs are the most likely to have them. If a puppy lacks furnishings, they are unlikely to develop them in adulthood. With or without, though, all Doodles are still undeniably cute. When adopting a puppy, there are many things you need to be prepared for. Many people choose to adopt one of these darling dogs for their hypoallergenic properties. The best way to anticipate precisely what kind of hair your Goldendoodle will have when they are done blowing their coat is to speak to the breeder. Checking out the parent dogs is also recommended for later generations. However, this is no exact science, and you should really be prepared for anything. We are sure, though, that no matter how your Goldie ends up looking as they develop, you will love them just the same. How could you not? Just look at that face! Learn How to Upkeep Your Doodle! Is this the Goldendoodle puppy coat transition? Where are all these dog mats coming from? The surprising transition from puppy coat to adult coat can sneak up on any unsuspecting dog mom. But the subject of the Goldendoodle coat transition deserves just as much attention as all the other Goldendoodle pros and cons. However, one thing is true for all Goldendoodle puppies. At some point, the Goldendoodle puppy coat will change and the adult coat will come in. Matting can take over quickly Kind of like the month of March, the coat transition may enter like a lion! You may be surprised how quickly the mats coming roaring onto the scene. When my Goldendoodle sidekick Chloe was a pup, her puppy coat was soft and silky and there was not a mat to be found, even in the crevices like the armpits! Meet Chloe. Her puppy coat was silky soft. First under the ears. Then the armpits. Brushing became our thing. Brushing removes dead hair that would otherwise cause mats. Like hair on our human heads, dog hair has to go somewhere. Since Doodles tend to shed less, Goldendoodle grooming is part of keeping the hair from tangling and matting. There will always be hair to manage with any dog, whether low-shedding or high-shedding. With a low-shedding dog, there is a greater amount of grooming. With a high-shedding dog, there is a greater amount of time spent cleaning hair off floors. Either way, you have the joy of being a dog parent! For more about shedding, read my article: Do Goldendoodles Shed? It may make you feel overly confident. When the Goldendoodle puppy coat starts transitioning, be ready. When do Goldendoodle puppies shed their coat? However, as a rule of thumb, Goldendoodle parents say anywhere between four to eight months and may even be up to two years. What happens during a Goldendoodle puppy coat transition? When the Goldendoodle adult coat begins to grow in, the puppy coat begins to shed. This creates tangles. If not groomed early, the tangles turn into mats. Since there are so many Goldendoodle coat types, there is not one set example. Some parents will hardly notice the change while other Goldendoodle parents will find what feels like an explosion of mats. What areas are the biggest matting culprits? Will stop growing eventually if left alone Straight coat Goldendoodles are the most like a Golden Retriever Expect troubles with shedding Expect allergy sufferers to have a rough time with a straight coat Goldendoodle A positive is much lower maintenance Regardless of the coat type you would expect a softer puppy coat from months, then a transition into the final Goldendoodle adult coat from then on. As a general rule the replacement adult Goldendoodle coat will be stiffer and denser than the Goldendoodle puppy coat. Which Goldendoodles Get Puppy Coats All sizes of Goldendoodle from large standards, to miniature or teacup Goldendoodle will all experience some form of coat change. When I spoke to breeders to interview them about the way they can predict the coat type for Goldendoodle puppies, they told me an interesting message. Our F1b tend to have soft fur even as adults. When the change does hit it is not always obvious to the dog parents. The transition to adult coat can be seamless, or it can reveal a surprising final Goldendoodle coat type. There are clues from early puppyhood that you can follow to take the best educated guess about which type of coat your Goldendoodle puppy will have. We wrote a thoroughly researched article telling you what strategies the experts use to predict Goldendoodle coat type from puppyhood. Remember that nature is a lottery, and there still can be surprises! You can see that the experts agree that a Goldendoodle puppy should start being groomed around 5 months of age. If the transition from puppy coat to adult Groodle coat is a difficult one, it is really handy to have a dog that is very used to grooming. Goldendoodles can have trouble with their paws. Have you ever seen a Goldendoodle lick or chew its paws? This is often a sign that something is wrong. Early exposure to paw touching can make it so much easier to four out what is causing Goldendoodle paw licking and fix it. At the least consider getting your Goldendoodle used to bathing and shampooing as needed only from a young age. Should I use special shampoo for the Goldendoodle Puppy Coat transition? When a Goldendoodles does lose its puppy coat around months of age you will be ready for an adult Goldendoodle shampoo. There is little harm in using up the rest of your puppy shampoo. Although it is probably easier to just use a natural, excellent smelling shampoo that is friendly to both puppies and adult Goldendoodles. All Goldendoodles can smell, regardless of coat type. There are seven common causes of Goldendoodles smelling — find out more here. There are three types of Goldendoodle fur coats Wavy Curly Straight The three Goldendoodle coats have differing degrees of curliness. Different genes inherited from the parent dogs will determine the coat type. They are also referred to as fleece coats. Wavy coat Goldendoodles are typically low shedding. A wavy coat does require grooming to prevent deep knots from forming. A wavy coat will grow to around cm 4 to 7 inches in left untrimmed The hair will typically be shorter around the face Wavy coats are low shedding Wavy or fleece coats are less dense than a curly coat Wavy coat Goldendoodles are low allergy Wavy coat Goldendoodles need brushing at least once per week. The coat will stay healthy and clean with little effort. If left to develop, sometimes the knots need shaving, which can cause discomfort. Brush well before shampooing your Goldendoodle with the best breed appropriate shampoo Curly Coat Goldendoodles Curly Goldendoodle coats feature the densest curls of any Groodle coat type. The curly coat is also most like that of the purebred Poodle. If the coat is curly, you can look for a few early signs to help tell the coat type of your Goldendoodle. Curly coats will eventually stop growing if left. The hair will typically be shorter around the face — but not always. Curly coat Goldendoodles are very allergy friendly. They are typically non-shedding. The curly coat is similar but not identical to a Poodle coat. Many owners and breeders report little to no Goldendoodle smell with this coat. Some owners only cut their Curly Coat Goldendoodles fur two or three times a year. They will need to brush once or twice a week to avoid knotting and give the best appearance. Straight Coat Goldendoodles Sometimes the straight coat Goldendoodle is called a hair coat or loose coat. These Goldendoodles share the most coat characteristics with a Golden Retriever. Straight coat Goldendoodles can resemble a Golden Retriever. They are the easiest to groom but do shed a little. Use the best-reviewed Goldendoodle shampoo to keep the coat soft. The straight coat can be extremely low maintenance These dogs are shedders This type of Goldendoodle is the most likely to cause trouble for allergy sufferers. Test individually as many allergy sufferers cope well with lots of different types of Poodle Mix breeds. Even though this coat is typically the least amount of maintenance — you may still need to brush. And more often than you think. If there is a dense undercoat it will be necessary to brush at least once per week to avoid knotting. Regardless of coat type, all Goldendoodles can end up with ear wax build-up or infections. Our guide on how to clean Labradoodle ears can be applied to Goldendoodles as well. If your dog wears a collar or harness frequently you will need to brush these areas irrespective of which coat type is present. The change from puppy coat can be sudden. It can also be gradual and take months to switch to an adult coat. Toy and teacup Goldendoodles will experience a puppy coat change too. Several breeders say that it is common for Goldendoodle puppy owners not to notice the coat change. The breeders said this is because either The coat change was gradual from 6 months of age with no sudden change Or some adult coats for Godlendoodles are super soft and indistinguishable from the puppy coat How To Tell What Coat Your Goldendoodle Will Have Genetics will determine the variables of the coat. Cross-breeding dogs can give unpredictable results. Goldendoodle puppies can be more like one parent than the other, Breeders and owners have noted some tricks and tips to help determine the future coat of a Goldendoodle puppy. The usual reminder that a Groodle is the same thing as a Goldendoodle. So if you are looking to find out how to tell what type of coat a Groodle will have — you are in the right place. From early puppyhood through to one year of age, the Goldendoodle coat is in a constant state of development. Knowing exactly the type of coat that a puppy will have as an adult is not possible. There are however some early signs that give you an indication of what the adult coat will be. We asked owners and breeders how to tell what coat your Goldendoodle will have. How to tell what coat your Goldendoodle puppy will have: Check the snout. By comparing the coats of the parent dogs you will get a generally good idea of the range of possibilities. If both parents are Goldendoodle with fleece, a wavy coat is most likely. If both have loose straight hair — be prepared for shedding. Nature and genetics will have the final say. These coat prediction methods give best indication of future coat type. There can always be surprises. Naming inspiration from a galaxy far, far away. The hypoallergenic, non-shedding Poodle coat is a highly desired feature. This significantly increases the likelihood of a Curly coat or Wavy coat. F1b Goldendoodles are less likely to have a significant coat change from puppyhood to adulthood. It is common for the fur density and coarseness to increase. These Goldendoodles do not have teddy bear features. English Goldendoodles are more likely than American Goldendoodles to have a boxy teddy bear appearance. Both types can look very teddy-bear-like with the correct furnishings. We call the Goldendoodle teddy bear face features furnishings. Dogs with any of the three coat types can also be missing furnishings. As a result, they can look much more like a Poodle or a Golden Retriever. Bernedoodles experience something similar with their tri-colour coats. F1 Goldendoodles are the most likely to be missing furnishings. A puppy without furnishings is unlikely to develop them when the coat changes to the adult Goldendoodle coat. Dog owners may experience anxiety with the goldendoodle puppy coat transition to an adult coat. Depending on environmental and genetic conditions, growing into an adult coat can take several months to an entire year. More so, there is a myriad of information regarding Goldendoodles losing their puppy fur, but you need to be critical in following this information. However, keep in mind that the coat transition of your goldendoodle requires constant attention. This article will therefore serve as a step-by-step guide to help you learn about the coat transitions that your goldendoodle will experience and how to care for them properly. Puppies of the Goldendoodle breed have a gorgeous coats! Goldendoodles will lose their puppy coat as they get bigger rather than getting a new one. Your puppy has already started the change when you see this. This can vary rather considerably. The beginning of others occurs before or later. The vast majority of breeders expect it to appear before the first birthday. In contrast, its coat will gradually transform when a Goldendoodle matures. The Goldendoodle in your life will only go through this change once. This is comparable to losing baby teeth and replacing them with adult teeth. This shift occurs only once in the life of your Goldendoodle. Depending on heredity and other circumstances, the texture and color of the coat may alter. Do Goldendoodles Puppy Coats Shed? Moreover, the easiest approach to determine whether your Goldie will have furnishings is to consider their age. They are most likely lacking from F1 Goldendoodles. F1B dogs are more susceptible to having them. If a puppy lacks furnishings, it is doubtful that they would develop them as adults. With or without, Doodles are still unquestionably adorable. Goldendoodle puppies will have varying coat colors and patterns regardless of size or generation. However, several breeders have found that Doodle puppies of different ages—F1, F1B, and F2—can have only slight differences. The mini goldendoodle puppy coat transition in your life will only go through this change once. Poodles have a fading gene, so that they might be a different color. However, breeders do emphasize a few telltale features that could provide an early indication of what to expect: Do A Nose Check When a puppy has abundant hair on top of its snout, it is called a mustache, and it is a good indicator that the dog will have a curlier coat. A wavier coat is suggested by hair that is straighter, shaggier, and more beard-like. Curly coats, according to breeders, are indicated by a pronounced mustache. The beard-like shagginess of a wavy coat is especially prominent around the face. The straight-coat goldendoodle puppy typically has a tidy and short muzzle. For example, an F1B Goldendoodle that has been backcrossed with a Poodle has 75 percent genes, increasing the likelihood of a coat with waves or curls. Typically, these dogs do not have a substantial coat shift from puppyhood to adulthood. These strategies for deciding on a goldendoodle puppy coat type are the most accurate. Nothing is guaranteed, and surprises are always possible. Types Of Goldendoodle Puppy Coats? It is difficult to envisage Goldendoodle coats having anything other than curly whenever the issue of this Doodle breed is brought up. Although Goldendoodles with curly coats are well-known, different less frequent coat types include wavy, smooth, and flat. Wavy and curly hair are the most prevalent varieties of Goldendoodle coats, followed by straight and flat. In addition to their attractiveness and sweetness, these charming pets have advantages for humans. Goldendoodles With Curly Coats. For various reasons, this specific style of Goldendoodle coat is extremely popular and in high demand. Curly-coated Goldendoodles are great for people with allergies and have a cute teddy bear look. Because of their curly coat, Goldendoodles are considered hypoallergenic. Curly-coated dogs, in contrast to straight-haired dogs, shed significantly less hair, which is helpful for allergy sufferers. To clarify, dogs with non-shedding coats still shed at a far lower rate than those with straighter hair. Curly-Coated Goldendoodles Compared to dogs with straight and curly coats, wavy coat Goldendoodle puppies fall in the middle. Goldendoodles with wavy coats are more prone to shed than those with curly coats but shed less than those with straight coats. But since the wavy coat is between the regular and curly coats, it requires less effort to brush than dogs with curly coats. If you live with people who do not suffer from allergies, a wavy or flat hair coating could be an extra option when selecting your partner. While Goldendoodles with a curly coat require daily combing, those with a wavy coat require brushing only a few times per week. Straight-Coat Golden Retrievers If you desired to bring home a Goldendoodle with a straight hair coat, you would likely find hair everywhere. Typically, a goldendoodle with a straight coat does not require brushing; nevertheless, you should double-check if any household members are allergic to fur. Always certain that no one is allergic, as straight-haired dogs shed huge amounts of hair. While not having to brush your Goldendoodle regularly may seem great, the amount of hair it sheds requires additional cleaning. Daily brushing is strongly advised for Goldendoodles with curly or wavy coats. Most of the time, Goldendoodles with a straight coat do not need to be brushed, depending on the situation. F1b Goldendoodle Coat Changes When you look up F1b Goldendoodles pictures on the internet, you will find out recombination between an F1 first generation Goldendoodle and a purebred Poodle. The hypoallergenic, non-shedding coat of the Poodle is a highly desirable characteristic. Most often, F1 Goldendoodles will disappear with a piece of furniture. This greatly enhances the probability of a Curly or Wavy coat. F1b Goldendoodles are less prone to see a substantial coat change between puppyhood and adulthood. It is typical for the density and coarseness of the fur to grow. This is true in some circumstances. Their adult coat may take on a deeper shade if that is how it is in their native habitat. Alternately, it might lighten up and leave the cute darker characteristics around the face. However, lateral color changes and shifts are common. When Goldendoodle puppies reach maturity, their adult coat is typically heavier and more rigid than their puppy fur. The breeder should know what to anticipate throughout coat transformation. Yes, their coat can be affected by various variables, most of which are health-related, and these common causes may include the following: Sun Bleaching. It can occur if your dog spends a lot of time outdoors in direct sunlight. Depending on the extent of the sun damage or bleaching, their deeper hues will lighten significantly, and portions of their exposed fur may turn yellow or white. Grooming Your Goldendoodle coat changes pictures might have darker coat color due to lack of grooming, but it can be lightened and brightened with constant grooming. Grooming your dog on a regular and recommended basis improves not only their comfort but also their physical appearance. Goldendoodles need regular grooming to keep them healthy and clean. You should trim their face regularly. Since its natural sheen diminishes with time, it typically seems darker than it did before. A healthier diet will help them shed their darker coat. Puppies of all breeds and sizes go through similar but somewhat different main processes. Pet owners observe the onset of mats and shedding fur in clumps. Their mature fur begins to emerge. Frequently Asked Questions 1. In most cases, a prominent mustache indicates that the puppy will have a curly coat. Unfortunately, not all puppies mature into adulthood with the desired wavy or curly coat and fluffy, soft fur. In addition, the F1B Goldendoodles are the least likely to undergo a drastic coat change as they age, while seeing an increase in coat coarseness and density. This is referred to as fading. Parents of Goldendoodles estimate a lifespan of four months to two years. It is advised to wait six months before giving your goldendoodle puppy her first complete trim down. Related Posts. The golden doodle puppy can be defined as a type of designer dog. The word designer is used intentionally to show the fact that the golden doodle puppy is a crossbreed of two different dogs. The two dogs that are crossbred in an effort of reproducing the golden doodle puppy are the Poodle and the Golden Retriever. The coat transition process is when the golden doodle puppy has its coat change from the puppy kind of coat and adopts an adult kind of coat. This transition can last anywhere from four months and stretch to eight months. Sometimes the transition may go all the way to two years. What to expect and how to prepare for the Goldendoodle coat change at each age? The golden doodle puppy needs to be well taken care of as it grows. There are quite a several things that an owner may want to do and practice as often so as to be sure the coat transition phase takes place appropriately. Giving the golden doodle a good brush regularly is very important because this will prevent the fur from tangling. By brushing the fur regularly will be in a position of removing debris that may be on the coat. One will need to use a brush that is slick since it will work best for the fur of the Goldendoodle. The brushes are available at various pet supply stores. Choose clippers that are designed for grooming Goldendoodle puppies and not just any clippers at the store. Getting a grooming kit will as well be very helpful. One should not use scissors for grooming, because one might end up accidentally injuring the dog. A Goldendoodle puppy needs to be bathed regularly. Washing your Goldendoodle dog in warm water is ideal. One will need to make sure that the coat is scrubbed thoroughly with the use of a shampoo that has been designed for dogs. During the cleaning process, one will get to know the existing coat and how well to handle the cutting of its fur. Dog shampoos are available at stores. Drying the coat of the Goldendoodle is also essential after giving it a warm bath. One will need to completely dry the coat before starting to trim. It is true to say that a wet coat is already shrunken and this makes it difficult to determine the length of the coat to be trimmed. Taking the above steps and practicing them from time to time, will guarantee that the Goldendoodle is well kept and when the coat goes through a transition, the process will be okay. There are three types of coats that are common amongst the Goldendoodles. This is contributed by the fact that the dog in itself is a mixed breed. One might find that one-half of the dogs have a dense, water-resistant kind of coat, whereas the other half may have a coat that is curly and low shedding. The coats will entirely depend on the parents of the dog. One common coat type is the wavy kind of coat. This coat is found to be the most desirable kind of coat for the Goldendoodle dog. The wavy coat is also referred to by some people as the fleece coat. The wavy coat is found to be very low shedding. For this type of coat, a lot of grooming will need to take place to generally prevent knots and clumps on the hair. For the wavy coat, the chances of allergies are a bit low as compared with any other coat. The other coat is the curly coat. This coat tends to look like a poodle coat. The curly coat is way denser than any other type of coat. The curly coat has a low odor and is hypoallergenic. The curly coat will seize from growing when left alone. The curly coat does not have a lot of shedding taking place. The straight coat is also another type of coat that the Goldendoodle dog can have. With this coat, there are some things to expect. One of the expectations is there will be trouble when it comes to shedding. The straight coat is also very low maintenance which is a plus. As the Goldendoodle puppy grows there are lots of things one will need to know about. When a Goldendoodle puppy is born to when it gets to around four months, its coat is usually very soft, and managing it will be very easy. A Goldendoodle puppy owner can prepare himself or herself for this stage by taking the time to play with his paws. An owner can prepare him or herself by purchasing different grooming supplies. One might want to visit a groomer and get the necessary information that will be helpful at the given stage. During this early stage, a Goldendoodle owner may as well want to introduce at-home grooming activities. Making sure the sessions are delicate, positive, and short will be very helpful. The other stage that a Goldendoodle dog owner will experience is when the dog is between four months through the two-year mark. In this phase, one will expect that the puppy coat will generally begin to change and the adult coat will start coming through. This stage will require that the owner takes the initiative of brushing or combing the Goldendoodle daily. One will need to focus entirely on a particular section at a time. Giving close watch to see if the coat does show signs of matting is crucial. A Goldendoodle owner will need to readjust his or her grooming techniques as the dog transitions to the adult phase. Changing grooming tools will be inevitable. In this phase, one will need to note that the face, as well as the muzzle of the dog, might as well change to a lighter color. An owner of the Goldendoodle dog will need to make some modifications to the grooming routine as the dog grows. Some of the changes can be using a simple comfort cut and using a softer kind of touch when it comes down to handling the arthritic paws. Incorporating grooming tables or a hydraulic lift grooming table can be very beneficial. When do Goldendoodle puppies shed their puppy fur? The Goldendoodle dogs in general are seen as low-shedding as compared to other dogs. There are no dogs that do not tend to shed their fur as they grow, so this is very common for any dog owner to experience. The Goldendoodle puppy owner would expect that shedding of the puppy fur will take place when the puppies get to around six months and it can go until the ten-month mark. A Goldendoodle owner might want to note that the fur coat on the puppy is a uniform kind of soft fur but as the puppy grows and sheds its coat, one will see that the coat becomes much thicker and stiffer. After the puppy coat of the Goldendoodle sheds one might as well experience a change in the color patterns. The adult coat on a Goldendoodle is found to be lighter as compared to the puppy fur. It is necessary for the Goldendoodle owner to note that not all puppies will shed during the six to ten-month mark. Some of the Goldendoodle dogs may tend to shed their coats a bit late and one should not worry. Some may shed their coats at twelve months. An owner of the Goldendoodle puppy might want to start cleaning its fur as early as five months in preparation for the shedding of its fur. At this point, the owner is encouraged to bathe the puppy with dog shampoo and pay keen attention to its grooming. What adult coat type will my Goldendoodle puppy have? Knowing the exact adult coat your Goldendoodle puppy will have can be extremely difficult to tell but there could be some signs and characteristics that one may see and hope the coat turns out as desired. As the Goldendoodle puppies grow one may notice that the more they grow the more similar they tend to become. Goldendoodle puppies more often than not do change their colors as they go through the process of maturing. Crossbreeding dogs will in one way or the other bring unpredictable results. It is common to find that a puppy may take more after a given parent as compared to the other parent. In this present day, one will find that DNA testing has been embraced by dog breeders in an effort to know which coat a particular puppy will have. This can be a good tell sign of which coat type the puppy will have as it becomes an adult. As a general rule, if the puppy has a mustache that is prominent then one will expect the puppy will be having a curly type of coat as they grow and get into adulthood. If the Goldendoodle puppy tends to have a shaggy beard when one takes a look at the muzzle then chances are high that it will develop a wavy type of coat. What is it like Doodle hood? It is quite true to say that Goldendoodles make the best dog for any person who is a first-time owner of a dog. This is generally due to the fact that the Goldendoodle is friendly, easy to train, and temperamental. There are quite a number of things that every owner of a Goldendoodle should have in mind about the dog. The Goldendoodle tends to form bonds very fast with human beings. This can be very good for the owner since it will not take long before one feels loved around a Goldendoodle. The fact that the Goldendoodle is very quick at forming binds means that they do have separation anxiety when one leaves them. This means one will need to be very cautious when forming functional bonds with them. A Goldendoodle does love to play every now and then. The Goldendoodle has been created in a way that it loves maintaining an active lifestyle. For the owner, this will mean one will need to be willing to be active to meet the expectations of the dog. The Goldendoodle is extremely social and this is something that the owner will need to consider. The Goldendoodle loves greeting new people as well as meeting other animals. An owner of this dog will need to take the dog for outdoor activities from time to time. The coats of the Goldendoodle may get curlier as they age. The coat is expected to shed as they grow. The coat a dog will have as they get into adulthood is entirely dependent on the genetics of the dog. There is nothing much that an individual can do. What is an improper coat on a Goldendoodle? An improper coat is characterized as the hair of a Goldendoodle that is short. This short hair is found on the head, leg region as well as head since they tend to lack the dominant gene. Technically speaking, your Goldendoodle will tend to have flat or rather straight hair all through the body. One can confuse them with the Golden retriever. The term furnishing is used to describe the long hair, eyebrows as well as mustache that tends to give the Goldendoodle the scruffy type of dog look. The furnishings are a dominant trait. An improper coat on a Goldendoodle means that the dog will lack long mustaches as well as eyebrows. The longer eyebrows, as well as the long mustache, are seen as the furnishing gene which gives rise to that specific growth pattern. The improper coated type of Goldendoodle dog is the one that is rarely sought after. Nevertheless, the improper coat is quite easy to maintain and it requires lesser brushing as compared to other coats. The improper coat technically does not give the desired teddy bear texture and look that most people look for. This can be a limitation for families or owners who have allergies. Conclusion In conclusion, the Goldendoodle dog breed is a very nice dog. For an owner to enjoy the full benefits of owning the dog, he or she will need to pay close attention to how the dog is growing and how well to handle the growth at every stage. Owning a Goldendoodle dog can be very therapeutic and engaging. An owner needs to be very intentional with the dog. An owner will need to be involved both emotionally as well as physically so as to make sure the Goldendoodle dog functions optimally. There is also the financial aspect of owning the Goldendoodle dog and an owner needs to be willing to spend on nutrition, grooming, and the overall health of the dog. Related Posts:. The change can be sudden or gradual, and sometimes the texture of the coat will change completely. The fur grows in dense curls that can be tight, kinky curls, or loose barrel curls. Generally, curly coats have virtually no doggy odor and are usually very low shedding. Wavy Coat English Goldendoodles have wavy coats that are also sometimes referred to as fleece coats. This coat type is typically very low shedding, but it does need plenty of regular grooming to prevent matting. Straight Coat Goldendoodles with straight coats take mostly after the Golden retriever parent. These Doodles are the heaviest shedders, making them unsuitable for life in a home with allergy sufferers. These coat types tend to need a little less brushing than the curly or wavy coated types, and they are slightly less prone to tangling and matting. To make matters even more interesting, Goldendoodles commonly change coat colors or get a brighter coat as they age , so it really is a total lottery! Goldendoodle puppies have a fantastic coat! Brushing your puppy removes loose, dead hair that would otherwise turn into immovable mats. So, even though one of the reasons that Goldendoodles are so popular is that they are extremely low-shedding, they do shed. Regardless of what size or generation of Goldendoodle you have, all these puppies will change their coats. Often, Goldendoodles that enjoy swimming and generally get grubby so that they need regular bathing can often lose their puppy coat almost invisibly. Generally, when Goldendoodle puppies change their coats, the mature adult coat they grow is denser and stiffer than the puppy fur. The breeder should be able to give you a good idea of what you can expect during the coat transition period. That said, the process of healthy coat transition can last for as long as two years. When your puppy starts growing his adult coat, his silky, soft puppy fur is shed. You need to be alert to that process starting! All puppies are born with a single coat. You might not notice any change at all, whereas other Goldendoodle parents see a massive amount of matting appearing from out of nowhere. Where Do Mats Form? Mats generally form in areas of friction. Particular hotspots include: Under the collar. Goldendoodle Coat: Senior Years History of the Goldendoodle The Goldendoodle is a relatively new hybrid breed of dog, developed in the late s. As its name suggests, it is a cross between two iconic breeds: Golden Retrievers and Poodles. The goal was to create an intelligent, low-shedding family pet that was easy to train and take care of. This unique combination has led to the Goldendoodle becoming one of the most popular designer dogs on the market today! The origins of this beloved breed can be traced back to Australia in when Wally Conron crossed a Standard Poodle with a Golden Retriever for Guide Dogs Victoria — an organization that provides guide dogs for people with vision impairments. His idea was to create a hypoallergenic service animal that would be easier for people with allergies or asthma to own than traditional breeds like Labradors or German Shepherds. The popularity of Goldendoodles began slowly but steadily grew over time as more and more families discovered how wonderful they were as pets. Owners appreciated their intelligence, playfulness, and loving nature, which were all qualities inherited from their parent breeds. But one of the biggest attractions to Goldendoodles was that they shed very little compared to other breeds — a major plus for households where allergies or asthma are an issue. What are the Generations of Goldendoodles? One of the primary factors in Goldendoodle coat changes is their generation. The most common generations include F1 first-generation , F2 second-generation , F3 third-generation , and F4 fourth-generation. F2 Generation The coat of a second-generation Goldendoodle is even more varied; they can inherit coats that are either straight and silky like their Golden Retriever parent, or curly and wavy like their Poodle parent. The variation among these generations is quite large due to the fact that each one can contain different proportions of parent breed genetics. Goldendoodle Puppy Coat Transition When a litter of Goldendoodle puppies is born, their coats are typically soft, fluffy and downy. The coat of a young Goldendoodle puppy will generally be less wavy than it will become as they age and more closely resemble the fur of their Poodle parent. Their fur is usually made up of several waves or curls which can range from tight to loose. As they get older though, their coats may start to change texture and length, with some puppies develop curlier or wavier coats than others. Some Goldendoodles may retain their puppy coat all the way into adulthood while others may experience a more dramatic shift in coat type as they mature. Goldendoodle puppies need regular brushing and grooming to keep their coat healthy and free from tangles or matting. Additionally, you should bathe your Goldendoodle puppy about once every weeks or as needed with a gentle shampoo specifically designed for dogs in order to keep their skin and fur clean and hydrated. As Goldendoodle puppies grow into adulthood, the texture of their coat can change dramatically. Fur that was once soft and wavy can become more thick and curly over time; this is especially true for F1B generations which tend to have more curl than other types of Goldendoodles due to higher Poodle genetics. In addition, adult Goldendoodles may require different grooming needs as well; depending on the type of coat they have, some may need professional clipping or trimming every few months in order to maintain an even look throughout the body. The coat type at this stage may vary depending on the generation, with F1s usually having a slightly longer and wavier coat while F1Bs are more likely to have a tighter curl. At 3 months, most Goldendoodles will experience some shedding; however, they should not shed as much as a Golden Retriever. A groomer can also provide advice about the best products and tools to use in order to keep your pup looking their best! Additionally, you should bathe your Goldendoodle puppy with a gentle shampoo every weeks in order to keep their skin and fur clean and hydrated. Overall, Goldendoodle coats can range from straight and silky to wavy or curly depending on the generation of the pup; but at the 6-month mark, all puppies will begin the transition into adulthood regardless of coat type. Additionally, make sure that you are brushing your pup regularly and providing them with regular baths to help keep their skin and fur healthy throughout this transitional period. Depending on the generation of your pup and the ratio of Golden Retriever to Poodle genetics, coats can range from straight and silky to wavy or curly. Additionally, you should give them a bath every weeks or as needed with a gentle shampoo specifically formulated for dogs in order to keep their skin and fur healthy. Finally, many owners opt for regular grooming services from professional groomers in order to maintain an even look throughout the body. With proper care and maintenance, your Goldendoodle can keep their beautiful coat looking its best! While Goldendoodles are generally active through their senior years, a tell-tale sign of their age is their fur. As your dog ages, you may notice more white fur around its snout and eyebrows. This is completely normal and a sign that your pup is entering the senior years of its life. Additionally, you should give your Goldendoodle regular baths with a gentle shampoo specifically formulated for dogs in order to keep their skin and fur healthy. Finally, many owners opt for professional grooming services every few months in order to keep an even look throughout the body as well as trim any mats that may develop. The type and texture of the fur can vary depending on what generation your pup is, but all types need regular brushing and baths in order to stay healthy and beautiful. As they age, their fur may become more prone to matting or tangling; however, with proper care, you can help them maintain their lovely coats for years to come! Goldendoodle Coat at 10 Years Short Goldendoodle History The Goldendoodle is perhaps one of the most famous and instantly recognizable members of the Poodle cross family. The Goldendoodle is first recorded as existing in the late s when a breeder chose to mix a Poodle with a Golden Retriever. This primarily came about as Golden Retrievers were well established as guide dogs for the visually impaired. However, they shed heavily making them incompatible with visually impaired people who had dog allergies. Introducing Poodle genetics often reduced shedding making the dog much more accessible to a variety of people. As Poodles are equally, if not more intelligent than their Golden Retriever counterparts, this ensured the new hybrid remained trainable as an assistance dog. As time went on it was almost inevitable that people would seek out this mixed breed as a domestic pet given their friendly nature and good temperament around children. The other appealing feature of the Goldendoodle as a domestic pet is that it can come in a variety of sizes to meet individual living situations. Added to this they are fairly healthy dogs, benefiting from the phenomena of hybrid vigor. This means you can expect a Goldendoodle to reach up to 15 years old! If you are new to the world of hybrid or mixed breed dogs, the concept of generations may feel a little incomprehensible. If bred back to the non-Poodle parent they are usually referred to an F1B Reverse. However, breeders can be selective about the types of Goldendoodle they pick. Typically, they pick the ones with the more desirable curly Doodle-like coat which increases the chance of it being passed on. Conversely, the F2 can also throw out the most eclectic litter as there are 4 Golden Retriever genes and 4 Poodle genes in the mix. This is sometimes known as the grandparent effect. The only way to be sure of coat types and colors is to have the parents genetically tested before breeding. If bred back to the Retriever they are known as an F2B reverse. F3 or Multi-Generational: This is where it gets confusing, breeders can then get creative with crossing F2 Goldendoodles with Poodles, Golden Retrievers or Goldendoodles. At this point, they are generally referred to as multi-generational. We have a more in-depth generations article that can teach you more about hybrid crossing called Cavapoo Generations Explained. The main difference that generation can have on the coat type of your Goldendoodle refers to how much Poodle genetics are present. Sometimes a pup will take after their Golden Retriever parent more and may present with a flatter coat, the correction for this would be to crossbreed the pup back to a purebred Poodle in the hope of increasing the curl. However, not all Goldendoodles will be curly. Check out the Flat Coated Goldendoodle to learn about those who take more after the Golden Retriever side of their family. For now though, we take a closer look at what you can expect from an F1 Goldendoodle coat. Goldendoodle Puppy Coat They do not come out curly! Now, this may be a serious shock but very few Doodle hybrids come out curly. In fact, it is much more likely that your Goldendoodle puppy will look decidedly Golden Retriever-like, other than it may have picked up some Poodle coloring. They will not shed particularly much and given the short nature of their coat, they will not be prone to matting. This is the stereotypical puppy coat that feels soft and fluffy and just begs for you to run your fingers through. As it stands there is no definitive way to determine from a puppy just what type of adult coat they may develop outside of genetic testing. If you are absolutely heart set on the curly Doodle coat an F2 Goldendoodle may be a better option as by breeders selecting two curly Goldendoodle parents you have a higher chance of the puppy exhibiting the same. However, this is not an exact science either as both Goldendoodles could be carrying straight coat genes. Now, just because their puppy coat appears low maintenance this is not an excuse to skip brushing. It is essential you acclimatize your Goldendoodle puppy to grooming tools like brushes and ideally dryers early. This avoids them becoming fearful in later life and will make the whole grooming experience less stressful for you both. Goldendoodle Coat at 3 Months At three months, your Goldendoodle puppy will be at peak fluffball stage. Their puppy coat will likely have reached its maximum length and coloring will be fairly well established. Any patterning that your pooch will likely exhibit may have become more enhanced. It is key at this stage that they should not cut their puppy coat but instead a bath, dry, hygiene groom of their intimate areas and a face trim may be all that is required. Again at-home brushing is key, not only will it build confidence in your dog but as they begin to reach the stage that their coat will change, regular brushing will ensure any excess hair is brushed out to avoid matting. Goldendoodle Coat at 6 Months While some unscrupulous breeders may tout Goldendoodles as truly hypoallergenic we know in fact that all dogs will shed hair and dander to some degree. It is correct that a Goldendoodle may be lesser shedding than other breeds however, at age 6 months they will shed their fluffy puppy coat meaning they will leave a trail of puppy hair behind them at least for a short period. During this time they may look a little ramshackle as they have patches of fluffy puppy hair and tufts of coarser adult hair. This exciting stage is when you will likely begin to get the first true indication of what you can expect from your adult Goldendoodle coat. Largely speaking Goldendoodle coats fall into four categories, flat, straight, wavy, or curly. The flat and straight coated Goldendoodle will look much more similar to their Golden Retriever parent, while wavy or curly variations will look decidedly more Doodle-like. Goldendoodle Coat at 1 Year By one year old your Goldendoodle will have continued its steady transition from puppy to adult coat. Any shedding should reduce and if a proper grooming regime has not been implemented this is where you may begin to encounter difficulty with matting. At 12 months you can begin to implement a professional grooming regime, while it is unlikely that you will need to attend more than 12 weekly at this stage, it is a good age to introduce clippers and nail clipping. This will be coarser than their puppy coat but overall, the Goldendoodle often retains the softer hairlike coat prized in Doodle hybrids. At this age, any work you put into familiarizing your pooch with grooming tools will really come into its own. It will not be unusual for a Goldendoodle to require daily grooming to keep them matt free. At 2 years you will have an idea of how quickly your particular dog requires a professional groom. Be warned though, if you prefer your Goldendoodle in a lower maintenance shorter cut, this could mean a trip to the groomers as frequently as 6 to 8 weekly. Goldendoodle Coat at 5 Years By 5 years of age, your Goldendoodle coat will be a product of things such as nutrition and grooming care. This can of course vary widely from owner to owner. A Goldendoodle supported with a good quality diet and given regular grooming may continue to exhibit a glossy coat while a Goldendoodle with less attentive owners may require to be kept in a very short cut and hair may appear coarser. Goldendoodle Coat at 10 Years By ten years of age, it is not unusual for high-energy Goldendoodles to still appear puppy-like. However, their coat may be the giveaway. At ten plus years they are officially entering their senior years and this can often show up in their coat. Many Goldendoodles that started out solid black, for example, may fade to a distinguished silver. Likewise, rich red tones may fade to blonde. It is worth mentioning that older coats and dogs may need additional support in terms of supplements and conditioning treatments. Older dogs may not tolerate prolonged grooming sessions either meaning everything may just need to slow down a bit. Either way, you will have had a fantastic companion for 10 plus years by this point and every gray hair will just tell the stories of the adventures you have shared. Again, this depends on their parents. But most commonly, they have wavy hair. Those with curly hair resemble their Poodle ancestry. Those with a straight look appear more like Golden Retrievers. The latter is far easier to groom. Speaking of grooming… Length After your dogs latest trip to the groomer, how long should you wait before scheduling their next visit? Mark it on your calendar, every six weeks about does the trick. Most Goldendoodles will have regrown everything in about three to four months. Both Poodles and Golden Retrievers have longer coats. While Labradoodles could have a shorter coat, this is uncommon in Goldendoodles, if even present. All in all, a Goldendoodle is a great pet for owners with allergies. While there is no such thing as a truly hypoallergenic dog, Doodle breeds shed far less than most and are quite allergy friendly. Many Goldendoodle parents may note that their puppy's coat quickly fills with fluffy clumps as a result of this. This is a definite indication that the shift has begun for your dog! Your Goldendoodle puppy's fur is thickest at three months old. It's possible that your puppy's coat has grown to its full potential and is very well-colored at this time. Your Goldendoodle could start to lose its puppy fur and develop an adult coat between the ages of 4 and 8 months. Depending on the exact kind of fur, this process may be slow and scarcely perceptible, rapid and evident, or protracted and difficult. The color and texture of their pelt can also vary. Don't get too depressed if your puppy's fur lasts past the age of 12 months; some Doodles may continue to shed puppy fur. We mentioned earlier about grooming. While most breeds you can take to the groomer at about 12 weeks, you probably want to wait until this six-month mark to shuffle them to the stylist. This will allow most of their puppy fur to be shed. When a puppy is 6 to 10 months old, the silky puppy coat often begins to shed gradually. Your Goldendoodle will continue its gradual transformation from puppy to adult coat by the age of one. Any shedding should be minimized, and if a suitable grooming routine isn't put in place at this time, you can have issues with knots. First, the adult coat becomes stiffer and more curly. Over time, you will notice that the coat is not as soft as it used to be. Most of the time, the color will usually lighten as the dog ages. They will grey just like we will. There are a handful of reasons for changes at this age or, sometimes, younger. If your dog is one that loves daytime romps, the sun could bleach its fur over time. This is natural. Diet and nutrition can affect their coats as well. A lack of vitamins could cause them to shed and matt. You might be allergic to dogs, but your dog could also be allergic to you. Or other things too. If they do have allergies this can affect the color, texture and volume of your puppy's coat. See your vet for best practices about how to assist your dog in these instances. Inherited or communicated diseases can also affect your dog's coat. Again, your trusted vet is best suited to formulate a plan of action for managing the situation. The same goes for grooming your senior pup. Older dogs need to be treated with a bit of finesse. Have that same respect for your dog. Especially those over the age of about ten years or so. If they have arthritis, for example, be aware of those areas on their body. But what happens during the time in between hair care visits? You can even take things step by step and demonstrate how easy it can be. Keep things light. Keep things fun. Shampoo and conditioner of high quality are viable options for special treatment. There are other, less expensive options as well. When they are true puppies, you want to only wash them when they start to smell. What will really help is brushing your puppy on a regular basis. Popping out the brush once a day or every other day is recommended. Brushing their hair less than once a week will almost definitely spell disaster. You can trim things up here and there as well. Where are some trouble spots that will need to be considered when grooming your pup? These might be found at the base of their tail, beneath their ears, and in the area just above their armpits. Don't forget about the back of their haunches and elbows. The best way to learn is with hands-on experience. Ready to get your Goldendoodle today? Have more questions about anything and everything Goldendoodle related? We have the answers , and for all things Doodles, stay tuned to our exciting and educational blog.

Teach an alternative behavior like "lick" or "kisses" Alright, let's dive into each tip below. Exercising a puppy is one of the best ways to help alleviate problem behaviors like biting. Again, how much exercise your puppy needs will be largely dependent on their breed and age. A general rule of thumb is that a puppy can have 5 minutes of exercise per month of age, twice a day. So a 4-month-old puppy can exercise for 20 minutes twice a day. The more energy your pup uses, the better! Exercise can also take the form of , just be careful not to overrun your pup. Excessive exercise can cause joint problems in the long run. There are a host of options to help you overcome this issue so you can still effectively get rid of their energy. Consider getting a flirt pole. Flirt poles are a fantastic option because they allow you to play very energetic and fun games of chase, without worrying about getting your hands nipped at. You can get one here. Another option is to teach your pup a structured game of fetch. Fetch is great because it exercises dogs both physically and mentally. Zak George lays out how to teach your dog to fetch in our free online training class, 30 Day Perfect Pup. You can sign up here. Remember, many dogs can have been bred for hundreds of years to have high levels of energy. Be sure to give your pup an outlet with exercise to help stop that puppy biting! Don't miss out! That is the perfect time to engage them mentally with a quick training session! Not only does it deter them from biting, but it gives you an opportunity to reward them for positive behavior. In its simplest form, the leave it behavior is all about restraint. A dog that can restrain from lunging and grabbing a treat on the ground, is much more likely to be able to leave your hand alone when you ask. Step 2: Show your pup a treat and then close your hand so your pup cannot access it. Your pup will likely try to get to the treat by licking, biting hopefully not , or pawing at your hand where the treat is. Step 3: Practice that behavior multiple times until your pup starts to generalize the concept. The next step after that would be to try putting a treat on the ground and telling your pup to leave it. Step 5: Practice, practice, and then keep practicing. If your pup starts biting into your skin, give the leave it command, and reward when they stop. Practice makes perfect! For example, as you teach your pup the sit behavior you can help them understand yes and no. Over time trust me, it takes time , your pup will better start to understand the difference between yes and no. My wife and I raised two Yellow Labs that are about 7 months apart. And they were the first puppies we had raised as adults. So please, trust me when I tell you that getting frustrated will only make things worse. When you are frustrated, your pup likely is as well. And when puppies are frustrated, they won't learn! So, if you find a certain puppy behavior like biting or situation starting to overwhelm you… take a timeout. Let your pup cool down in their crate or sleep area and give yourself a few minutes to regroup. Guess what. So, do what you need to do for a personal break, and then recommit and get back at it! They have a keen sense of noticing our emotions. When frustration creeps in, learning stops for both human and dog. Redirecting to a game of tug of war can help teach your pup what is okay and not okay to chew on. As we mentioned before, puppies explore the world with their mouth, that is totally normal! Many pup parents have found it best to approach your pup with the toy in hand so you can be ready if the hand chomping starts happening. Teaching your dog tug can be a great way to stop puppy biting. Just remember, these behaviors can take significant practice and time to overcome. The question is, are you rewarding those positive behaviors and moments as you should be? If you are going through the process of overcoming puppy biting, you need to remember to praise the successful moments. When your pup comes up to you and lets you pet them without getting nippy, praise and reward them! Maybe you will see your puppy chewing a toy instead of your slippers or hand, reward them! If your puppy licks your hand instead of biting it, reward them! A huge part, and often underlooked, of training a puppy is to praise their successes. Treat each victory as a party and break out the fun, , and praise. Your job as a pup parent is to teach your dog what you want them to do. PS- If you're looking for a high-value reward treat for your pup, we've got your back! Check out our. Of course, you praise the positive moments but at times, you have to take away what your pup is desiring. In the instance of biting, pups are looking for playtime and engagement with us humans. Leave the room, put them in another room, or put them into a playpen for minutes. Implementing this method consistently will help your pup come to understand that when biting starts, playtime stops. A note on this, in most cases it is best to not use the crate as a negative reinforcer like a timeout. For example, when your pup starts nibbling, do your best to not jerk your hand away quickly. Most dogs love things that are moving! So if you jerk your hand or foot away, your pup may think you are trying to be playful. If your pup starts biting, let your hand go limp. Another way to make your skin a little less enticing is to keep them covered when possible. Being a successful pup parent oftentimes comes down to how well you can set your pup up for success. So if you know your pup is going through an extreme biting phase, consider keeping that skin covered when at home. It can be wearing socks, long sleeves and pants, and other things like that! When the puppy biting phase is at its worst, every little bit of help is important! Dogs are obviously very skilled at helping each other learn what is okay for play, and what is too aggressive. One quick note on socializing your puppy is that you should always be there to monitor them! Be active and aware and be ready to intervene if the play gets out of hand or aggressive. Some dogs have lower levels of patience with puppy biting, so be aware of how the other dogs are responding. Many pup parents find that the more they can correctly socialize their puppy, the milder the puppy biting will become. If you can effectively teach them a behavior that they can only do without biting then you'll be much closer to no biting! While there are plenty of alternative biting behaviors you can teach, here are some favorites:. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. You turn your attention back to your computer screen and suddenly feel little teeth grabbing at your sock! You look down. Your once-angelic puppy is now having a full on game of tug-of-war with your pant leg! This cute baby is now more like a furry little monster. You get up and try to walk away, but the fur alligator is still attached, munching away at your trousers and having the best time! If this sounds like your life, read on to learn how to stop a puppy from biting. Why Do Puppies Bite? Believe it or not, this scenario is actually very common! Biting is one of the most natural things in the world to a young pup; and they do it for many reasons. You would be left with your feet and mouth to interact, taste and feel your environment. Now, what if you had puppy paws — incapable of grasping anything? That leaves you with one final way to interact — your mouth. For good measure, add in the incredible curiosity of a child. How many times do you see a baby grab things with their hands and pop them into the mouth? Puppies have that same mindset. Your mouth strength and play bite helped you communicate and determine your rank in society. Your mouthy mojo gave you respect in canine culture. Puppies interact with their surroundings largely through their mouths. Labradors, like most sporting breeds, have the drive to chase after prey, put it in their mouths, and bring it back to you. This translates into a strong need to chew. They will try this same tactic with their human pack members. If ignored, one bite on the toe is often enough to get the focus back on them. Remember, to a puppy even negative attention is still attention. Terrible Teething When you add teething into the mix, you have the recipe for a furry gator. Most pups will have an increased need to chew while teething , which can begin at 6 weeks and last to 8 months of age. Unlike teething, there is no magical age that puppies grow out of a learned mouthing behavior. Thankfully, with positive training, most dogs eventually lose interest in chewing on their owners. Types of Biting: Aggression or Play? Puppies use their teeth in many ways. However, this is actually just very intense play. Play biting can be accompanied with growling and snarling. This is just part of the fun to a young pup. Instead, we will look into how we can prevent playful mouthing. However, it is important to recognize the signs of aggression. Pay attention to the timing of the biting as well. If so, the motive behind the bite may be more aggressive. Could it be Resource Guarding? Some dogs also aggressively bite when they are guarding a toy or food item, commonly called resource guarding. With resource guarding, you will see the same behavior as aggressive biting, but they will also stand over an object and defend it from any perceived threat. If you think your puppy is behaving aggressively, seek professional help to learn how to actively manage this issue. In contrast to this, playing puppies will be relaxed and have a wiggly body. They will be bouncy, easily roll onto their backs and often be panting with open mouths. Even if they are growling, a relaxed face and body mean a happy puppy. What Can Trigger Biting? Do you really want your pound Labrador to target your hands as a toy later? Children Little kids tend to excite puppies more than adults. Children move erratically, run around, make strange sounds and have a lot more energy. Puppies can easily associate them with toys. Ankle Biters Puppies target fast moving objects that excite their prey drive. Your feet moving by at their eye level can be irresistible. After all, what self-respecting puppy would snub shoes with those floppy laces that are perfect for playing tug? How do we do this? Redirection with Hands When training your puppy, always have a toy to offer. Remember, puppies are like babies. Your job is to redirect them to fun toys instead of human skin. You must do everything possible to make toys extremely attractive so the puppy chooses them over your clothing, hands or feet. Redirection with Kids You can also use redirection around children. First, teach your puppy to use interactive toys and then show your child how to play with the puppy correctly. In the event that your dog forgets, teach your kids to be a tree when their puppy begins to bite them or their clothes. This position makes them less interactive to the puppy. They look boring and the puppy will lose interest. Most bites occur because the child is running or moving erratically. Remember, dogs have the same prey triggers as wolves. If something is running away, it looks like prey. Your job, therefore, is to have an even more amazing toy than your feet. You can take a toy, tie it to a rope, and then tie the rope to your belt so that you are dragging the toy whenever your pup is out. If your puppy is coming for your feet, stop moving them and wave the toy around excitedly instead. Once the pup is attached to the toy, you can start walking again. This way, they will pounce on the toy instead of you! Bite inhibition simply means that the puppy learns not to apply too much force behind their teeth. They apply gentle, but firm, pressure to their greeting. Puppies also learn to limit this pressure with their mouths by feedback from pack members. When puppies are little, they learn bite inhibition through play with their siblings. If two pups are tussling, and one bites down too hard, the other puppy yelps loudly. This startling sound usually causes the offending party to let go. The play stops for a few minutes, as the first pup nurses his wounded ego. Play then resumes, but with less brutality. Instead, let the puppy release your hand and then simply get up and and move away from your pup while ignoring them. Your job is to teach them when they bite down on you, the fun stops. Ignore them for about a minute, then return and resume the play and praise them when they focus on the toy. If they bite you too hard again, repeat this process. You can either step over a puppy barrier or go into another room and shut the door. Just make sure they are in a puppy-proof area, as they may take out their frustration on inappropriate household items. You can also keep the puppy on a leash while playing with them. If they bite you, you can calmly tether them to something and then walk out of their reach. Your goal is to correct the puppy only by taking away your fun presence. You should not be threatening or angry. Give them the appropriate time out from the fun interaction to settle down, and then come back with a toy to redirect their energy. Once they understand they have to be gentle, you can then start to ask more of them by ending the game with lighter and lighter pressure on your skin. Finally, you can take the game to the highest standard — no teeth on human skin at all. If you slowly progress to this over weeks, you teach your pup to have a soft mouth. If they do feel the need to put their teeth on a human, they know not to put much pressure into their bite. You need to teach your puppy that human skin is fragile and requires a softer touch than a canine interaction. Your goal for this exercise should be to help your puppy understand that the play and fun things continue as long as they keep their teeth on their toy and not on you! More Ways to Stop Your Puppy Biting While the yelp and time-out method works for most pups, there are additional ways to reinforce good behavior. When your puppy bites your hand, they get a terrible taste. You can use anti-chewing sprays like Bitter Apple to make your hands less appealing. When your puppy bites you, be still and wait for them to react to the bitter taste. When they let go, praise them and redirect them onto a treat or toy. You want the crate to always be associated with only good things. Crates also should be in the middle of the household, with the rest of the pack — not isolated. This is the same way other canine pack members would isolate them. A laundry room or puppy pen works well for this exercise. Make sure the room is comfortable and safe for your puppy. When the puppy is too stimulated, calmly put him in the room with some teething toys and leave. Teaching them interactive games like fetch or bringing you a toy to tug helps show them that they can have even more fun when they play by your rules. Positive play helps develop a bond with your dog. You never want to avoid it, you just want to show them how to play without biting you. Teaching puppies to retrieve objects helps to tire them out, gives them something positive to chase, and focuses their bite on an appropriate item. Plus, most Labradors are pretty good at retrieving! Remember, anytime we ask a puppy to stop a behavior, it should be because they are rewarded in an even more exciting and positive way for doing something else and things our way. The following video shows how. Video: How to Stop a Puppy from Biting This video shows how to use clicker training to stimulate a puppy in situations where they normally would bite; and then reward them when they choose a closed mouth and calm interaction. Dominant Puppies Dogs are individuals. However, as puppies mature, there may be the rare pup that uses biting as a way to take charge. Dominant puppies may bite to show you that they want to be the boss as they mature. This happens naturally among littermates, as all packs have a pecking order. This reinforces to them that you are backing down and that they are the leader in the relationship. Always remain calm and assertive with your puppy, but end the game as soon as they begin vying for leadership instead of playing. Remember, the alternative to not training your dog is a large animal putting his mouth on people. Be patient with your puppy. Remember, mouthing and biting are normal parts of canine culture. If you stay patiently positive, train consistently, and redirect and reward good behavior, you will soon see a puppy that learns to bring you a tug toy instead of shredding your trousers. It is not intended to be nor can it be considered actionable professional advice. It must not be used as an alternative to seeking professional advice from a veterinarian or other certified professional. Please consult a professional before taking any course of action with any medical, health or behavioral related issue. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. We may receive commissions from purchases made via our links. Lab puppies are incredibly cute, but their teeth really hurt when they are puncturing your skin every time you try to play. No one likes to be bitten, so how can you get a lab puppy to stop biting? The best way to stop a Lab puppy from biting is through a combination of proper exercise, training, redirection, and the use of positive affirmation. Most owners attempt at least one of these methods, but it is the combination and use of all of them that will effectively curb unwanted biting. Keep in mind that before you can stop it effectively, you should know why Labrador puppies bite so much. Additionally, know when they tend to naturally stop biting. Only then can you effectively begin to work on preventing them from biting. Lab puppies use their mouths to explore their environment and gather important information. When puppies are growing their adult teeth, they will often chew to soothe the ache along their gums. Labs may also bite to play or out of fear and aggression. Biting for Sensory Information When a puppy bites something, they learn how hard they can bite it, what it tastes like, how it feels, and if they can bite it again. All of this information is stored in a mental catalog your dog looks back on when encountering a similar object. This learning process is very important for puppies to become well-socialized dogs. When a puppy bites another puppy too hard they will lose their playmate. Biting too hard can have negative repercussions! Biting for sensory information is a totally normal behavior for puppies and even adult dogs. Since they don't have hands to explore with, their mouths are the only option. However, if you don't want your dog's mouth on you or your belongings, there are ways to stop this biting but we'll get to that later! Biting for Teething As your Lab matures, their mouths will start to change. Once their adult teeth begin to push up through their gums, the teeth they were born with begin to fall out one by one. It is the same process humans go through when their baby teeth come in and are later replaced with adult teeth. Just like with humans, this process is somewhat painful and incredibly uncomfortable. To help quicken the process, puppies will chew on things to wear down the gum between the new tooth and their mouth. This practice is also very soothing for puppies, especially if they chew on something cold. Biting for Play vs Biting for Aggression In the wild, dogs and wolves play by wrestling around and biting one another. Since your dog sees you as a member of its pack, they will try to play with you in a similar way. Of course, this biting still isn't ideal, but it's important to know the difference between play and real aggression. When a dog bites out of aggression, it is because they are scared, or you are asking them to do something they really don't want to do. Biting out of aggression is important to watch and fix at a young age so you don't end up with an aggressive dog. The most significant indicator of aggressive biting is body language. When a puppy is being playful, their body and facial muscles are relaxed. When a puppy is biting out of aggression, their body will be stiff or frozen, their face will have a lot of tension in it, and their lips may be pulled back in a snarl or growl. If you are seeing a lot of aggression in your puppy, you should contact your Veterinarian to make sure they are not in pain. When a dog suddenly becomes aggressive, they may have an unseen condition that is causing them to lash out. If you get a clear bill of health, you should seek the help of a professional trainer to help you. As we said earlier, as your Labrador matures, they will start to develop adult teeth. This change usually occurs around 12 to 16 weeks of age; the process will reach its end at about 7 months. Therefore, if your Lab is biting to soothe its gums, then the biting should end around the same time their teeth have fully grown in. If your puppy is biting for sensory information and play, it will lessen as your Lab matures and begins to slow down. While there is no magic number that says when your Lab will calm down , it usually happens between the ages of 2 and 4. First, don't hit your puppy as punishment. They aren't doing anything wrong in their mind because biting is natural. You also can't decide when it is and isn't okay to bite. Doing so can cause great confusion. When trying to prevent your Lab from biting, a few tips can help you. Exercise, training, redirecting, and positive affirmations are your secret weapons against those adorable, tiny, sharp teeth. Exercise Exercising your Lab daily will cause them to be too exhausted to do anything but sleep, let alone bite you. You can exercise your Lab by playing fetch, going on walks, or using enrichment toys. Training First, I recommend formal fundamental training before attempting anything specialized. Training your Lab not to bite sounds complicated, but it can be as easy as slapping some butter and seasoning on. If your Lab is biting YOU, put some butter on your arms and clothes wear they like to bite you. Show the butter to your Lab, and when they lick at it, say "yes, kisses, yes. This associates the word "kisses" with the act of licking and the yummy taste your dog gets. The next time your Lab tries to bite you, say "kisses," they should start to lick you instead as they try for the yummy taste. If your Lab is biting furniture or shoes, there is another approach. Grab a spicy seasoning, like paprika or taco seasoning, and sprinkle it on the places your Lab chews. Then, the next time they go to chew it, they will get a nasty taste in their mouth and leave the thing alone! Redirecting Redirecting your dog to things they are allowed to chew on when playing is another way to avoid being bitten. Have some good chew toys handy whenever you are playing with your Lab. When your Lab starts to bite you, show them a chew toy and try directing the bite towards it. After a while, your puppy should go after its toys instead of you. This type of training takes time , but is proven to be very effective. Positive Affirmation When your dog does what you want, whether it's licking or going for a proper toy, make sure you give them lots of praise. Tell them how good they are and even provide them with a treat or two! Final Thoughts Biting is a natural part of a Lab's life, but it is crucial to decipher playful nips and aggressive ones. Playful body language is loose and relaxed Aggressive body language is stiff and snarling If you are seeing a lot of aggressive body language in your Lab, make sure they are healthy and contact a trainer A Lab will probably stop biting after they stop teething If your Lab doesn't stop biting after teething, they should stop upon reaching maturity between 2 and 4 years of age Exercise, training, redirecting, and positive affirmation are the best ways to stop biting NEVER hit your dog to stop biting. Print How to stop your puppy from biting your hands and feet — fast! Have you ever watched a litter of retriever puppies play with each other? They are all mouths and feet as they growl, bite and paw at each other. Over time, if left to it, each pup will naturally figure out their place in the pack. However, when you bring your Lab puppy home there are no longer littermates with whom to tussle. And the result is often that your Lab puppy will start biting and growling at you! The problem is that puppy teeth are sharp. Very sharp! And when your puppy bites you, even if they are playing, it hurts. So, what can you do to stop this behavior before it gets out of hand and you find yourself or someone in your family injured by your puppy? Before I go any further, I want to be clear about what we are talking about. You should seek professional help and evaluation. Why puppies bite and growl Puppy play is a kind of training for a dog as they grow and mature. It is also a way that dogs determine rank within a group. Remember, dogs are pack animals. In a pack there is only one Alpha lead dog. Every other dog is under the authority and control of that dog. No two dogs share the same rank. So, while biting and growling starts as play, it does not stay that way. All dogs, whether in a group of dogs or a human family, want to understand their place in the family. They need to know their place. It helps they be more mentally balanced and will help solve a multitude of behavioral problems. Once a puppy or dog understands where they rank in the pack, they often assume that place, at least for a while. Remember, they are dogs. They are not robots so occasionally they may challenge their position, but if the boundary remains clear, the challenge is short lived. Biting, nipping and playful growling at a human can become a challenge of dominance. If your puppy is young, you can quickly and easily end this behavior by establishing boundaries and consistently enforcing these boundaries each and every time your puppy shows this type of behavior. If you have let this behavior go on for a while, you may be in for quite a fight to take back your authority. Biting is not the same as chewing A puppy biting your hand or feet is not the same as a puppy chewing on a shoe, toy or other item. All puppies have a need to chew. As their puppy teeth grow and their adult teeth come in, it is common for dogs to chew on things to relieve the pain and help the new teeth to come in. This should not be discouraged, but rather encouraged on an appropriate item like a chew toy, nylabone or rawhide. And if this works, this is an appropriate solution. Instead, it is likely an issue of dominance. How to stop puppy from biting you Biting is just one puppy dominance behavior. There are many others such as jumping on you, putting a paw on your feet, and lifting and placing paws on your arms or legs. The behaviors I have listed are often gateway behaviors that escalate into more aggressive or troublesome behaviors like stealing food off your plate or the counter, pushing you out of the way when going through doors and pulling you around on a lead. Start by establishing firm boundaries The first step to stopping your puppy from biting or mouthing you is to set up firm boundaries for your puppy. You can set these up for not only biting but for all dominance behaviors. So, what is a boundary? Well, here are some examples. Some people we have worked with are okay with their puppy mouthing their hand as long as there is no tooth pressure. If you feel the same way, then make that a boundary. But if there is any tooth pressure, a swift and consistent correction will follow. This boundary is stronger and does not give the dog any room for confusion. In fact, they often will understand what your boundaries are but will test that standard against everyone else in the family. Each person needs to set and enforce boundaries. React with firm consistent corrections After you establish the boundary, you now need to react every time your puppy or dog crosses that boundary. Each and every time! There can be no room for confusion. Your corrections must be swift and consistent. Not all dogs react to the same level of pressure. For some dogs, this squeeze and strong words will be all it takes to stop the behavior. Especially if you are consistent in your correction. But some dogs have a stronger or more challenging personality. This will give your puppy a taste of his own medicine since his puppy teeth are sharp and will pinch into his lips or flews. You must be consistent. How long will it take to stop my puppy from biting me? If you are firm and consistent, the behavior should stop for the most part in a day or two. Some dogs require more pressure, some less. Your puppy should feel some discomfort. That is okay. The point is to show your puppy that biting hurts and that it is not an acceptable behavior. When nothing seems to work If you puppy is a bit older and has been getting away with biting and mouthing you for a while, you may struggle to end this behavior. Often the problem is a strong dominance issue that needs to be addressed. If your puppy continues to snap or bite at you even after a correction, you likely need to exert some dominance over your puppy. This is similar to what a mommy dog does to a puppy that is not behaving. Humans can do the same thing to show dominance over a rebellious puppy. I know, it sound a bit ridiculous but it really does work. Instead, remain calm and patient. Stay in control. Reacting with emotion can lead to strong reactions or punishment that you will later regret. The point is to show your dog that you are the Alpha in the relationship, and you can and will determine what behavior is acceptable. Biting is not love As a professional dog trainer, I am always surprised at what some of clients consider appropriate behavior. Some owners feel that setting boundaries and enforcing those boundaries means that you do not love your dog. That you need to accept all dog behaviors otherwise you do not love your dog. This is a false and faulty mindset. We have seen clients who have been injured by their dog multiple times and they still refuse to take steps to end the behavior. That is not love. What if the next person that dog bites is a child? Would you be able to live with that? A dog that is allowed to continue harming humans is only one bite away from having to be put down. It may sound harsh, but it is the sad truth. Some people may argue that the dog is unable to understand what they are doing is wrong. This is not based on reality. Dogs are very smart. They can learn to do amazing things and become incredible hunting partners and family companions. But they rarely achieve this potential without an owner who cares enough to set boundaries and enforce them. Final thoughts on how to stop my puppy biting me all the time You can stop your puppy from biting you and others if you are willing to take the steps necessary to make your dog understand that biting is not an acceptable behavior. A firm consistent correction each and every time your puppy bites will quickly teach your puppy to stop biting. These corrections will not harm your relationship with your puppy, but will, in fact, enhance it. Your puppy will quickly learn where the boundaries are and how to operate within those boundaries. We see it time and again, once a puppy is taught that there are boundaries, they quickly adjust and become wonderful loving and obedient family members. Help, my Lab puppy keeps biting me! Calm puppy behavior. Conflicting advice on how to stop your pup biting Many articles will tell you to ignore a puppy when he bites and to offer him a toy instead. Some people will tell you to punish your biting puppy. Others will tell you that you must not stop your puppy biting too suddenly, or punish him for biting, for fear of drastic consequences later. So who is right, and who is wrong? Does ignoring stop your puppy biting? Many new puppy owners try to ignore the biting puppy initially. This failure tends to be for one or more of the following reasons. Does noise stop puppy biting? There is no doubt that a sufficiently loud squeal, followed by immediate withdrawal of attention, will cause many Labrador puppies to break off from biting. Sometimes long enough for a skilled owner to then redirect the puppy into a more appropriate activity. There is also no doubt that for some puppies, this has the reverse effect, and causes them to bite harder and more fiercely. A puppy that has spent sufficient time with his Mum, may be more likely to take heed of this verbal warning, as he will expect it to be followed by a sharp click of her teeth and a fiercer rebuke if he ignores her. But there are no guarantees here. And the fact is, squealing simply does not work as an effective anti-biting strategy, for some puppies. Punishing the puppy to stop biting I have heard, even quite experienced, breeders tell new puppy owners to punish their puppy if he bites. Either by intimidating the puppy with an angry growling voice, or even with physical punishment such as a scruff shake or slap. But there are problems with this approach. This process is called bite inhibition. And the use of punishment may curtail all biting rather than just the hardest, most painful, bites. Nowadays many people like to train dogs without punishment. And there are strong reasons for joining them — check out this article — the downside of punishing dogs. Teaching puppy to stop biting Why would we want to teach dogs to bite humans gently? Why is it not best to teach them not to bite at all, right from the start? The idea of reducing biting gradually was popularised by Ian Dunbar. The theory is that a dog which learns to inhibit his bite i. You can read more about bite inhibition here: Labrador Puppies Biting. The concept is a sound one, and most canine behaviorists agree that teaching gradual bite inhibition is a good thing. The problem for many new puppy owners, is stopping those painful bites in the first place! The first step is not a technique at all, but an adjustment in the expectations that we have of a small puppy How much do Lab puppies bite? New puppy owners tend to have false expectations of puppies. They also anticipate that stopping a puppy from biting will be a fairly quick and simple matter. None of these expectations is true. Most puppies bite hard, frequently and growl fiercely whilst they are doing it. This noise is not a sign of aggression see Help my puppy is aggressive. Stopping a puppy from biting is a process, a journey. And it can be temporarily an uncomfortable one! It is important to accept that there is no guaranteed way of stopping biting immediately. Indeed, as we have seen, bite prevention rather than inhibition may be a bad thing in any case. Supervise your puppy around children Once you have got your head around the fact that this process will take some time, that it will be a gradual thing, you need to think about how you are going to protect any children that might come into contact with the puppy. This is important because small children can, both hurt and, be hurt by small biting puppies. Calm your puppy to stop him biting The next priority is to keep your puppy calm. Overexcited puppies bite harder and more frequently than less excited puppies. This will merely start the biting up all over again. There are lots of ways to interact with puppies without physically playing with them. Check out our article on playing safely with your dog. What to do when a puppy bites When your puppy bites you really hard, take immediate action. Stand up, move away from him and completely withdraw your attention. You can try the squeal thing if you want to. This works well with some puppies. Be ready for it, and repeat your actions. If the puppy chases after you, biting at your legs and feet, step over a baby gate, or pop him in his crate for a few minutes. You can read up on this process in more detail in this article: How to cope with biting. Remember, puppies enjoy chewing , and teething puppies need to chew on something. Whilst you and your clothing are not suitable chew toys, you need to provide your puppy with alternatives, like Kong toys. How to stop your puppy biting Biting is normal Biting should be inhibited in stages Training takes time The key points to take away from this are that biting is normal, and that training a puppy not to bite takes time. Stop the painful bites first, then work on putting a stop to mouthing. If what you are doing is not working, you probably just need to be more patient and persistent. If your children are suffering, you need to separate and supervise. Work hard on keeping your puppy calm — it makes the biggest difference. But as your kids approach the puppy, he starts biting and nipping them, causing a few surprised cries. The AKC says Labradors are an affectionate breed, treating adults, children, and other animals like family without causing any trouble. Labradors are easy to train and receptive to learning new commands since their main goal is to please their families. Do All Labrador Puppies Bite? As your new puppy settles into their new home, they are many stimulants, and he needs time to get to know your family, its new surroundings, and that not all slippers are a toy. Just as when people move to a new house, city, or country, your new Labrador puppy is exploring the world. This process will take a few weeks, so be patient. But what happens when he suddenly starts biting you and your kids? Every family that gets lab puppies faces this challenge. Although your puppy is only a few pounds, Labrador puppy biting is still painful. Many owners worry that the behavior will continue into adulthood, especially when biting becomes an ongoing issue. The good news is that there is usually a short time frame that you have to experience this. So in reality, Labrador puppy biting is primarily instinctual. Reason 1: Teething Puppies Sometimes, a Lab puppy biting is simply due to teething. Teething is uncomfortable, so your pup likely just wants to relieve that discomfort in any way possible. If that means biting a chew toy or your fingers, then so be it. Once your Lab puppy has its teeth, it might stop biting and nipping. You can help ease his comfort by offering him teething toys for puppies, like frozen chew toys. Reason 2: Excitement Biting Behavior Your new Lab puppy could get excited by just about anything: Your kids squealing, shouting, or crying, and adults shouting or being angry can set off your Lab puppy biting with its sharp teeth. The solution: Deter your puppy from biting you by redirecting him to what he can bite, like a toy. Reason 3: Biting for Attention Most Labrador puppies are receptive to conditioning and positive reinforcement. Dog lovers know that dogs crave attention from their families, but Lab puppies are extreme attention seekers. They love any form of contact with their families, whether playing, petting, or even just eye contact. So if your pup gets these responses from you while biting, he will interpret them as attention. The solution: Stop giving your puppy the attention he wants when he bites so he learns not to associate the two. When puppies are with their mom and siblings, the mom teaches them how hard they can bite each other without it being too painful through play fighting. Your Lab puppy learns how to calibrate strength based on his own family experience. Do Labrador Puppies Bite Children? One major adjustment is the play-biting: A small Lab puppy has a powerful bite and can cause pain, especially to such sensitive skin. The downside is that Lab puppies are more likely to bite children and teenagers than adults. It all comes down to learning how to interact with the puppy. Children and teenagers are inherently more confusing for a Lab puppy. The great news is that you can stop your Lab puppy from biting your kids through consistent training, but the training should be on both sides. Your kids also need to learn how to play and interact with the puppy, understanding its boundaries and playing just enough to keep them from overexciting. You plan to throw a chew toy into the yard for him to chase — but before you can throw it, he suddenly starts nipping and tugging at your hands while making odd puppy sounds that sound dangerously close to snarling. You might also be worried that you have a puppy displaying aggressive biting behavior. Most of the time, they mean no harm and just need a little training to control it! Without the proper guidance and education, many of these methods might be wrong: Instead of discouraging your puppy from biting, you could unintentionally reinforce it. Puppy Biting Tip 1: Discourage Play Biting Whatever stage of puppy development your adorable pup is in, he will always crave attention. If you encourage and reward play biting, he will associate it with attention, praise, and treats, causing him to do it more. So if your puppy has entered its biting phase and is displaying rough or aggressive behavior, stop yourself from giving any reaction. Simply follow rigid training steps, and it will eventually stop. Although that might be very hard to do because a Lab puppy is so adorable, you will thank yourself in the future for doing this. In fact, it might even make things worse. When you punish your Labrador, he might learn to fear you. This can worsen the biting and lead to your puppy developing more aggressive behavior as an adult. Some people also do a light swat on their puppies when they misbehave. When your pup starts biting, remain calm and follow positive training methods rather than negative ones. This is especially true when it comes to a nipping Labrador puppy. While a biting puppy is normal puppy behavior, without proper training and techniques, your Labrador might bite well into adulthood. Step 1: Teach Small Children Boundaries The first step in your training routine should be teaching your kids how to interact with the puppy. But if they start barking and biting out of excitement, you must stop playing with them immediately. Instead, pick up the toy and step away. Bite inhibition is when you teach your puppy how much is too much. After that time-out, you can return to the room and resume whatever activity you were doing. As your puppy learns to bite with less intensity, you can start training it not to put your hand in its mouth. This training takes time, so be patient, and you will see a positive result. Step 4: Reinforce with Additional Training You can also use other training techniques to reinforce positive behavior. Move your hand closer to the puppy and follow the same technique. If the puppy bites you, walk away from it. As you train the puppy to tolerate your hand getting closer to it without biting, you can finally keep your puppy calm and play safely without causing overstimulated biting. Puppies and dogs might go back to their bad habits if you change how you interact with them, so being consistent is crucial. Remember that children tend to take more time to learn training steps, so always reinforce the boundaries and supervise them during playtime in the early training days. Be patient and give your puppy time to learn. Seek help from professional trainers. Professional dog trainers are experienced in redirection, toy-play, and bite inhibition training to give you helpful tips and tricks. Take your puppy to puppy school. There are hundreds of puppy schools and programs that teach puppies good manners. Remember to never punish your puppy for biting. Invest in some good toys, such as different chew toys or Kong toys, so you always have something to redirect him towards. Conclusion Whether teething, scared or just excited, most Labrador Retriever puppies bite for various reasons. Unfortunately, those sharp little puppy teeth can hurt — so if you notice some unwanted biting from your Lab puppy, you should immediately start training him into different behavior. Learn more about what we do and check out our available Labrador puppies today! Share on. How to train a puppy not to bite Is it normal for puppies to bite a lot? Yes it is! Almost all puppies bite and some bite much harder than others. How long do puppies teeth and bite? With some exceptions, puppy biting will stop by the time your puppy has his full set of grown up teeth at 7 months. Fortunately, you can stop your puppy from biting long before they have cut all their adult teeth. Do puppies grow out of biting? If you do nothing at all, to teach a puppy not to bite, the biting would likely subside over the next few months. But its very easy to do the wrong thing, and actually encourage a puppy to bite more. And in those cases, play biting can become very rough and the relationship between a young dog and their family can break down. Do All Labradors Bite? Anyone who shares their home with a 10 or 12 week old puppy will tell you that Labradors bite! And I can reassure you that this applies to all Labradors in the first few months of life. Fortunately this is a phase puppies go through and not a permanent character flaw. And most adult Labradors are indeed very good natured dogs. And also at what is normal, and what is not. If your children are in tears at being bitten every time they try to play with and cuddle their new friend, you may be wondering if your puppy is becoming aggressive. You may even worry that your children might be at risk. Fortunately I can reassure you that this is not the case. While your puppy may frighten your children with his sharp teeth and growling. The way he is behaving now does not mean he will be a threat to their safety in the future. Happily, studies have shown that behavior in small puppies is not predictive of the way that they will behave as adults! Why Do Puppies Bite Children? Some breeders will not sell puppies to homes where there are small children. This is because puppies often bite children and teenagers harder and more persistently than they bite grown-ups. It is normal for small puppies to make small children cry, but before you rush your puppy off to the local shelter, bear with me a moment, because I can help with that. Children give off conflicting signals to the puppy. Fortunately there are lots of ways to make it easier on yourself and on your kids. In short, you need to be a little patient at this point, and it helps to know that this phase does pass quite quickly. And that it is completely normal for all puppies to bite a lot, and to bite children with particular enthusiasm! It has to be said, Labradors are even more bitey than some other breeds of dog during this stage in their development. In fact, retrievers generally tend to be very bitey as puppies. As can the pain of being bitten. Puppy bites do hurt. And sometimes they leave marks. Pain, bruising, scratching, little tooth marks on your toddler, these are all part and parcel of raising a puppy. Some very enthusiastic puppies will even draw blood on occasions. All this is normal, but I will explain what you can do about it. Perhaps the most serious concern that new puppy parents have, is the fear that their puppy is becoming aggressive. What really worries people is the snarling. When puppies play, they practice being fierce. They throw themselves into the whole play acting thing with huge enthusiasm. And they are brilliant at it. And the most important part of that game is to make as much noise as possible and to sound as angry as possible. So, all puppies growl or snarl ferociously when they play, while they are biting, and sometimes when they are trying to entice their poor owners into yet another game. His little face will be all scrunched up, his lips drawn back, his teeth showing. So he has no idea that he is frightening your children or that you are wondering if he is turning into a horrible aggressive and dangerous beast. Please do be reassured, that however fierce your ten week old puppy sounds. It is just a game. He is truly just playing. Normal Puppy Play Behavior So, the hard truth is, all puppies bite. And many puppy bites are quite painful. Some Labrador puppies bite more than most, and biting a lot, and growling or snarling at the same time is normal. So is biting so hard that it makes your eyes water, and even occasionally breaks the skin. Puppies bite at hands that go to stroke them, at bare feet, and happily tug away at clothing, all the while trying to sound as fierce as they possibly can. All this is normal. And you, quite naturally, will want to know exactly when it is going to stop! When Do Puppies Stop Biting? It also happens in working dog families where the dogs may be kennelled or at least are not allowed unsupervised interaction with anyone apart from their trainer or main carer. A study carried out on Guide Dog puppies in showed that simply rejecting interaction and refusing to play was enough to stop the puppies biting their adult puppy walkers. But, and it is a big but — in most young families, this is not always what happens. In many families, especially where the puppy is a novelty, everyone plays with the puppy, and often in quite a physical way. This gets puppies very excited and tends to make biting worse. Inexperienced puppy owners also tend to inadvertently prolong the biting phase by rewarding the puppy with attention when he bites. The more excited they get, the harder they bite. Rough physical play gets puppies excited, rubbing puppies tummies, chasing puppies, grabbing at puppies. All these things get puppies bubbling with excitement Noisy behavior can get puppies excited too, so children squealing, or crying, grown ups shouting or getting cross. You might not think you are rewarding your puppy for biting, but you probably are. Labrador puppies are particularly social and love attention more than most puppies do. Any kind of contact with you, or other members of the family, including physical contact, talking, shouting, even eye contact, all reward your puppy. And if you give him these things while he is biting, this will reinforce the biting behavior and he will bite more in the future Poor bite inhibition What makes the bites hurt more, is poor bite inhibition. So the next section explains what bite inhibition is and how you can help your puppy improve his. What Is Bite Inhibition? At just eight or nine weeks old , Labrador puppies are actually capable of crushing bones the thickness of your little finger, with their jaws. Your puppy has been learning to inhibit his bite since he was tiny. His mother and brothers and sisters all helped to teach him how hard he can bite without hurting them. This is where your training will come in. You can read more about bite inhibition and bite inhibition training in this article What About Puppy Teething? We mentioned teething earlier because people tend to associate biting with teething. So, is it true that puppies bite so much because they are teething? And how long will teething go on for? In fact, most problem puppy biting is simply play. Puppies may chew or mouth at fingers to help relieve the discomfort of teething, but this is not the major cause of the biting problems we find in homes with small puppies. Most puppies have their adult teeth by the time they are 7 months old, but biting does not usually last that long. He is growing fast and by 11 or 12 weeks those bites will hurt a lot more. The time to begin taking action is now! But for the time being, you need to put this image aside. Children under five are simply not capable of playing with a puppy under four months without getting bitten. So you need to supervise every interaction between them. Do put baby gates across doorways, even if you no longer need them for your children. Baby gates allow you to separate children and puppies when you are not free to supervise. Do show children how to stroke the puppy gently whilst you hold one end of a rawhide chew and let the puppy gnaw on the other end. It will end in tears. Playful Visitors It is not just children that play inappropriately with puppies. I have known grown men grapple roughly with a tiny puppy, rolling him around the floor, making growling noises, whilst the puppy gnaws on his knuckles. You can find out how to play safely with a Labrador in this article. Saving your sanity and enjoying your puppy If you were not expecting this, it can seem like a big deal, but supervision and some separation is essential if you are to keep your sanity, and your children are to dry their tears and carry on enjoying their puppy. With older children, you need to teach them how to interact with the puppy without getting him overwrought. Labrador puppies, like toddlers, are easily over-excited. And when they are over-excited they start to be silly. Your first job at this stage, is to keep your puppy calm. Your second job is to stop giving your puppy rewards for biting. Make sure the puppy gets no reward at all when he bites someone. Especially no attention. The next stage explains how you can do that. The process whereby the puppy learns to use his mouth gently on your skin — and it takes a little while. Bite inhibition is taught in stages. The puppy learns to reduce the power of his bites gradually. What to do when your puppy bites If your puppy bites and hurts you, remove your attention immediately. This is where baby gates can be really helpful. If you are playing with your puppy and he bites you, you can step over the gate, thus effectively removing all attention from him. All of a sudden his playmate has disappeared. What about squealing You may have heard that a puppy will stop biting if you yelp or squeal. And you can try this, because it does work with some puppies. But many puppies get even more excited by the yelping, and on others it has no effect. The strongest signal you can give your puppy is the loss of your presence and attention. What about punishment? Some people try and stop puppies biting by smacking them or shouting at them. There are several problems with this. Firstly, it tends to only stop the puppy biting the person who did the yelling. Which is of course the very opposite of what you are trying to achieve! You can find out more about the potential impact of punishing your Labrador here. What if you need to move a biting puppy? If you need to move the puppy away rather than stepping away from the puppy you may find he bites at your hands when you go to pick him up or take hold of his collar. Others bite when they are stroked or petted. We are fond of wiggling our fingers at puppies, petting them and rubbing our fingers in their fur, not behaviors that dogs really understand. And many puppies see fingers and toes as something to chase and play with. Hands are a particular target for puppy bites so teach your children to interact with your puppy using toys that he can tug and bite on, rather than playing with him using their bare hands. Distracting your puppy If you want to sit and pet your puppy, or your children do, use treats or hold a rawhide chew with one hand so he can gnaw on the end. Have your puppy wear a harness and houseline so that you can pick up the end of the line and move him to where you want him to go without his grabbing at your hands. Stage Four: Train Your Puppy Not To Bite This is where we teach the puppy to let us stroke and pet him, or handle him in any way we like, without him putting his mouth around our fingers. The best way to do this is with a clicker and some dog treats. But you can also use a word like YES instead of the click. And place a treat on the floor in front of him You see where I am going with this? Build up slowly so that you can touch him anywhere on his head or body, pick up his paws etc. All without him grabbing or mouthing at you. What do I do if he mouths at me? If the puppy grabs at your hand, you got too close. Make smaller hand movements further away from him until he ignores those, then bring the movements gradually closer. Stage Five: Playing Safely As puppies grow older biting can reappear. Puppies between six and nine months of age, are extremely boisterous, and may start nipping with their teeth during play. At this age, your puppy is more than half grown, and his size and weight are a significant problem if rough play is allowed. The secret to avoiding and resolving this issue is to change the way you interact with your puppy. And to ensure that children follow your example. Boisterous and excitable puppies must not be allowed to play rough games with small people. The consequences can be very unpleasant, and it is no coincidence that this is the age at which many young dogs are abandoned or given up to rescue. Here are a few more articles that you might find helpful:.

Takeaways… List of Pug Breeders Seattle By the end of this article, we hope you find the right pug breeder that satisfies your needs. Then you may visit them anytime. They are a member of a pug dog club. Using their years of experience, they are able to produce AKC registered litters. As a pug breeder, you need to have the passion and skills for breeding healthy puppies. This group is a non profit organization that started in .They save and adopt purebred pugs and pug mixes. They take in different pug breeds like black pugs, apricot fawn, fawn, and brindle. Their program for breeding pugs is exceptional. It abides with the standards of the American Kennel Club. Besides pugs, they take care of other brachycephalic dog breeds like Boston Terriers, French Bulldogs, and Pekingese. They also offer affordable veterinary services like spaying and vaccinations. Church of Pug also offers temporary foster care. They will take care of your pride pugs like it is theirs. All their works are funded by donations. Their earnings will go to support their organization in continuing to save more pugs. They also save adult dogs who are abandoned and candidate for euthanasia. As one of the top local breeders in Washington state, they want to share their love for pugs. There are three founders for this group and Aneta is one of them. As a good pug breeder, they continue learning about how to take care of this toy breed. All their pups are placed in a homey place, so they have a good temperament. They socialized with different people and other pups. You can expect them to be friendly and energetic. You can call or text them to schedule appointments. They also arrange meetups for you to see your future pet. You can see their web page and socials for the videos and photos of their pugs. They treat all their pug puppies for sale as family. All their staff raised them well, and they undergo litter training. Having a pup is like having a family member added to your home. All their pug puppies are vet checked and health guaranteed. This is part of their breeding program upon giving their pug to their forever homes. Husband Chris is the better half of the main founder while Aneta is their third founding member. All the litter they produce passed AKC standards. Some of them even won dog shows and become pride pugs of the organization. All their family raised pugs have a free day health insurance to serve as a health guarantee. They also give the pug owner a training support reading material. This is to reinforce the skills of the owner in taking care of pugs. WindWalker Pugs. Email: charliehoskins13 comcast. Hoskins Pugs is run by a retired military, Pug-loving, family from Olympia, Washington. They care about producing top of the line, quality Pugs from their own home. All Pugs are clean, well cared for, and an important part of the Hoskins family. Aura Pugs Email: aurapugs gmail. They strive to always put health first and do their best to better the breed. Aura Pugs tests for health concerns and have their Pugs evaluated and vetted at different stages. All dogs are raised in the home as members of the family, promoting good social skills and manners. Aura Pugs show their dogs regularly throughout the Northwest, and invite prospective owners to come and visit them. These breeders have a dedication and commitment to the Pug breed that drives them to provide a loving haven for their dogs. All Pups are well socialized and bred to AKC standards with parents on site. C Pride Pugs go to their forever homes equipped with AKC registration papers, vet checks, dewclaw removal, vaccinations, and deworming. All Pug parents are genetically tested and puppies are sold as pets with a limited AKC registration. Puppies are baby checked and microchipped before being rehomed and come with a health guarantee and lifelong advice. This Pug loving family from Washington wants to spread the joy that Pugs bring to others. All Grumble of Love Pugs are bred from the comfort of the family home. Each pup is loved and cared for by Aneta, her husband Chris, and their two boys. She is a longtime breeder of Pugs with a special interest in colored Pugs. Her dogs are all pets and live in the home with humans. Puppies have the opportunity to become well socialized with children, adults, and other dogs. Stephanie is available for advice for as long as you might need. They love their dogs and show commitment to the betterment of the breed in everything they do. But how can you spot reputable breeders when you start searching for a Pug puppy? Here are some tips to help you out. A good breeder will… 1. Issue a health guarantee Make sure that your breeder of choice offers a health guarantee. A reputable Pug breeder will write up a binding health guarantee for all of their puppies. The guarantee protects you against any genetic defects or diseases. It shows that the breeder is confident that their puppies are bred according to best practices. This means if you can no longer look after your pup for some reason, you will be expected to return the puppy to the breeder rather than taking them to a shelter. Provide standard health clearances Your breeder should have full health clearances for both parent Pugs. Good breeders often provide some early health-check clearances for their pups too, although some health clearances simply cannot be carried on such young pups. Issue a written bill of sale Reputable breeders offer written bills of sale to all of their new Pug parents. This bill of sale should be signed and will outline all the roles and responsibilities to be taken on by the buyer and seller as part of the transaction. Vaccinate their puppies All puppies should be up to date on their vaccinations before being homed with new families. Your breeder of choice should be able to provide evidence of these vaccinations. Reputable breeders welcome prospective parents into their homes to see the puppies. Follow age guidelines Puppies should never leave the litter before 8 weeks of age. Any breeder offering pups for adoption before this time is not following best practices. In fact, this could be quite damaging for the puppy developmentally. A reputable breeder will keep their pups at home until eight to twelve weeks so that they can be properly socialized and spend that crucial time with their mother and litter-mates. Answer your questions Last, but not least, a reputable breeder will be knowledgeable. In most cases, they will also want to ask you plenty of questions to ensure that their precious pups are going to good homes. We have a strict selection process that takes a variety of factors into account. That way we can ensure that only the best breeders end up on our lists. This way we know that our chosen breeders offer genetically sound and healthy puppies. Health testing shows a commitment to the health and wellbeing of each Pug. Contact information Any breeder that does not offer up their contact information is a big red flag. A reputable breeder will make it easy for you to get in contact with them by providing telephone numbers, email addresses, and they will usually have a well-established website as well. It shows a commitment to breeding best practices. Event participation Breeders who also compete in doggie events are often some of the best. Because these people tend to be dog lovers par excellence. They live and breathe for their Pugs and are proud to show them off in public. They are also more likely to have a high level of breed knowledge — an excellent sign for a breeder. Breed club membership There are lots of breed clubs out there that breeders can register with. These clubs have rules, regulations, and membership fees. If your breeder is registered with the Pug Dog Club of America, this is a great sign showing commitment to the Pug breed. Recognition awards Lastly, we look out for awards! Institutions like the AKC recognize the efforts and achievements of top breeders. The very best will be awarded the AKC recognition of merit award. During this time we recommend getting everything ready before your new arrival rattles through the front door. Your puppy will need: a crate for sleeping and training during the early days quality puppy-grade food a leash and harness plenty of toys You may also wish to purchase a puppy gate if there are areas of your home that you want to keep your Pug away from. This is all about making your home as safe as possible for your new arrival. Make sure anything that could potentially cause harm to your pup is removed. Clear your schedule Having a Pug puppy is a bit like having a human baby. So make sure to clear your schedule and get all of those errands done ahead of time! Once they arrive… 4. Avoid crowds Hold your excitement. That means no crowds. Try to keep the home environment as stress-free as possible so that your puppy can settle in and start to feel part of the family. Crate training is the first step. Lay down a regular routine from the get to and your Pug will be good as gold in no time. Questions about Pug puppies for sale in Seattle WA? We have answers. How much are Pug puppies for sale in Seattle WA? Uptown aims to make your search for a Pug for sale in Seattle as simple and seamless as possible. To start off, simply check out the currently available Pugs for sale from the trusted breeders and vetted businesses of the Uptown network. You can directly contact the breeders to learn more and then make arrangements for pick-up or delivery of your dog. What are some of the common Pug health problems? Just like any other breed out there, Seattle Pugs for sale can suffer from certain health issues. Due to their flat faces, Pugs can have respiratory problems and eye issues too. They may also develop hip dysplasia and patellar luxation as they get older. Pugs are also prone to obesity, so they require regular exercise. What makes Uptown different from other sites selling Pugs? We know you've got lots of options when looking for Pug breeders Seattle, but we aim to be your number one choice. Other sites can sometimes supply dogs from low-quality breeders, but we do things differently. At Uptown, we always scan and review the breeders and businesses that apply to join us, only approving the very best sellers of Pug puppies Seattle. What are puppy mills and are they safe? If you want to find a happy and healthy dog from an ethical, reliable source, we recommend avoiding puppy mills at all costs. The people running these mills only care about profits, and their pups often pay the price, commonly suffering from health and behavioral issues. You won't find any puppy mill Pug puppies for sale in Seattle here on Uptown. What about backyard breeders? Backyard breeders have a lot in common with puppy mills but simply operate on a smaller scale. They're usually independent breeders, operating in their own backyards. If you see a suspiciously cheap Pug for sale Seattle, it probably comes from a backyard breeder. These dogs often have health issues and problems that require big vet bills to fix. Choose Uptown to find your Seattle Pug for sale without worrying about backyard breeders. Are Pugs good family dogs? If you're looking for a family dog, it's important to find one that is calm, loving, loyal, and playful. Some breeds are better suited for family life than others, and the Pug is one of them. Lots of families have found endless happiness after buying Pugs for sale Seattle, and these dogs are simply terrific with children of all ages. Are Pugs suitable for apartments? If you live in an apartment or small home, you need to think carefully before adopting a dog. Some breeds don't do too well in little spaces, but Pugs are great for apartment life in general. They don't need huge homes or big backyards to be happy, but if you are considering Seattle Pugs for sale and you live in an apartment, make sure to take your pup outside for regular walks, otherwise, it may start to gain weight. Can I only search with local breeders? In general, we recommend trying to find a local Seattle Pug puppy for sale whenever possible, as this just makes things simpler in terms of meeting the breeder and bringing your pup home. However, you're absolutely free to search throughout the entire Uptown network for your perfect Pug, including breeders and businesses all across America. If your pup is too far to collect by car, the breeder will be able to fly it over to an airport near you. How do you screen breeders selling Pug puppies? There are plenty of Pug breeders in Seattle, but they're not all equal in terms of ethics, professionalism, and other key criteria. We're only interested in working with honest and trusted breeders, so we established our Breeder Pledge, outlining a set of standards for every breeder and business in the Uptown family to live up to. Here, you'll only find the finest providers of Pugs for sale in Seattle, guaranteed. How much are Pugs? Pug puppies for sale Seattle can vary in price quite wildly, depending on who you're buying from, where the pup is located, and what it looks like. Some rare and more desirable Pugs with specific coat colors might be more expensive, for example, but here at Uptown, you'll find a good range of Pug Seattle prices from our vetted breeders and businesses. Good thing, cause here I am. Like most pugs, I have my quiet side where I sit and watch the world unfold but I have my playful side too. I live with other dogs, cats, and a young boy and we all play together. My young friend is cool, he and I are learning things together. I like to play with the cats, they are the perfect size for me. Sometimes we even eat out of the same bowl! I am not much of a toy pooch; I would rather run and walk and sniff some good things. Car rides are fun especially if they end up at the beach. I like the water, not so much for swimming but I will wade in it up to my belly. My young friend and I go to the beach and play together. I am learning some manners too, I know how to Sit and Come on command although it is a Spanish command My ideal family would be one where we could do things together. Things like a long walk or going to the beach. Then when the day is done, I will curl up with them in a warm blanket and cuddle. If that sounds like we could be a match, then just fill in the application and we can meet on a Zoom call. There you will see any videos, more photos and details.

Commencing Marker Training your chocolate labrador pup Start Marker Training at 8 weeks of age When you take your 8 week old labrador pup to their new home, you should commence their obedience training immediately. Just repetitively say yes and give your pup a treat immediately. Then familiarise your labrador pup with a leash. Clip the leash to their collar and allow the pup to roam a little. This way they will adjust to its weight and the sensation around their neck. If you try to walk your pup straight away, they will simply resist. Don't pull and command, but rather cultivate a positive experience with a leash. Secondly, I recommend that you feed your new labrador pup with a leash attached until they learn to sit. This will establish you as the master and immediately teach the pup restraint. Do not give the food bowl to your dog without firstly bringing him under your control. Even with my mature dogs, I will not let them feed except on command. Feeding should never be random. Hold the leash close to the labrador pup's neck and push their rear end down to the seated position. When they are sitting, enthusiastically praise your pup and, only then, reward their obedience with food. Remember, food should always represent a reward for good behaviour. They hear tones and frequencies. When we train them, we are conditioning them to associate a particular sound with a response so that it means something to them. Labrador puppies like all dogs learn contextually and by consistent repetition. In this way, a labrador pup learns to associate sounds with responses and rewards. This is why you should reward your pup immediately when they have performed a command correctly, even if they did not intend to do so. In the early stages, I prefer to teach a dog to 'sit,' then move on to 'staying' before teaching them to 'come'. This is especially so while they are still a puppy. Remember that a 12 month old dog is still a pup. They are regularly hyperactive and overstimulated. The goal is to get your labrador puppy into a calm and submissive state as often as you can. Ensure you are demonstrating a calm and composed, yet assertive demeanor. When you are in charge, your labrador pup will willingly sit and look to you for direction. Exercise patience and be repetitive but don't overdo it. Remember that the time you put in now will help you bond with your young dog, even if they do not appear to be advancing quickly. It will be a very worthwhile investment in a long term relationship for years to come. Of these three basic commands, the 'stay' command will take more time to teach. When this is mastered and entrenched in your dog's obedience, it can save your dog from danger. You are teaching them associations, not English words. Sit Teaching your new labrador pup to sit should begin immediately when you take it home. Begin by feeding them on a leash. Hold the leash close to the pup's neck. Give the pup the 'sit' command, but don't reward them with food until they are sitting. In this way you have begun to condition the pup to the 'sit' command. This requires patience at meal time. Remember that a labrador pup requires 4 feeds a day for the first phase of their life. This gives you ample opportunity for repetition and reward. When the dog sits, reward them with a treat and a lot of enthusiastic praise. Each time they repeat the behaviour, reward them with a treat again. You can train your labrador pup for short intervals at any time. Carry a few small pieces of food. Call your pup, then reward them with lots of affirmation and a piece of food when they comply. Teach them to sit by offering a small treat. Say 'sit', then let them smell the food as you move your hand over their head. A labrador pup will automatically lift the nose in the air to follow the food. As the head moves up and back, the pup will tend to sit. Give lots of praise and gradually increase repetition as they associate the word 'sit' with the food. Stay Your Labrador pup will need to understand the 'sit' command before you advance to 'stay'. Before you give the 'stay' command, make sure that the dog is seated. To keep the dog in the sitting position, you will use your hand with the fingers pointing up and the palm in front of their face. To begin with, position yourself about half a metre away from your pup's face. Direct the 'stay' command calmly, with your hand up. Slowly take half a step back and remain there for 3 seconds to begin with. Then step back towards to the dog. Wait for another 3 sec and then reward your dog with a treat. Repeat this 5 times. Reward them at the end of each 'stay' routine by praising them enthusiastically and giving them a treat. Don't praise or reward the dog until they have remained seated in front of you for a minimum of 3 seconds when you return. Your puppy should not move a millimetre until you give the reward. If your dog breaks early, you have gone too far. Simply return to your dog, reset them in the seated position and begin the routine again. Come It is important to make sure your Labrador understands the 'stay' command before you begin the recall or 'come' command. Make sure you pup is seated before you give the 'come' command. As your walk away from your pup, maintain eye contact. Don't back away too far too soon. If the pup breaks early, give the 'come' command to establish association. When you call your dog to 'come', do not let them jump up on you. If the dog wants to stand on its back legs and reach up, place the palm of your hand on their head and hold it away from you. I suggest that you don't say 'no! The down command should be used as a more constructive training command. If your pup jumps up, make your disapproval known by using a 'dog' sound; 'Ahhh! If you find yourself becoming frustrated, then put the pup away and start again tomorrow. Don't take it personally and don't blame the dog. Corrections are necessary, but not out of frustration or anger. If it's not working, then look at your consistency and your communication. If the training is a positive experience then you will strengthen the bonding and learning process. Develop consistent communication and trust with your dog in the process of the training. Labrador pups love to please and they will be very proud of themselves when they accomplish the command and gain your approval. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. How to accept discipline and more besides So taking a puppy any earlier is wrong and detrimental to their development. We follow many of the guidelines set forth by a program called Puppy Culture. Know that once you have your puppy, everything you do, everything they see, every good experience, bad experience, taste, smell, sight, reward and punishment trains them in some way. All of these experiences are granted to them by you and they will be looking to you for guidance through these experiences. Puppies are exactly like children. They take their cues from you to learn where they can go, where they should not, what they should be scared of, what they should not, what they can play with, what they can not…and on and on. You may as well take advantage of this innocence, when they have no idea of what life is with no preconceived ideas, no habits formed or needing to be broken, to start training them to fit into the life that they will lead with the skills that they will need. I believe you should start to train your Labrador puppy as soon as you get them home, from 8 weeks of age. But I stress this important point, to make it fun! You have to think of a puppy as a very young child. A puppy is just as impulsive, has just as little self-control and just as short an attention span. You need to think the same with a puppy. They are just like a child. A puppy will eat what they like, when they like. Go where they can, when they can. And they will not be able to listen to and act on your every word. They will have a very short attention span and no self-control. It would be totally unfair. While watching TV train your puppy during the commercial breaks. Commercial breaks are usually about minutes long perfect time for training your pup! This means going very slowly and not expecting too much. Having many small wins is very encouraging. Just do very gentle training exercises for short periods of time. Most people with a Labrador as a family pet will think of training as obedience commands and performing tricks. But you can train them basic things such as: Sit Stay for mere seconds…with no distractions! Keep it easy! Roll over. How does it feel to be a new puppy parent? You must be chuffed. Take a look at these first few articles. All the ingredients you need for a happy home. But for now, beside your bed is the best place for your puppy to sleep — it will help them feel safe. Puppies like their crates rather cave-like; we suggest covering it with a blanket to block out light, but keep the front open so that they can see outwards. Make sure to make it snug inside with something like a vet bed or a blanket, or why not take it up a notch with a heat pad or hot water bottle to recreate the feeling of their mother. Nothing feels more comforting than that. Before you head to bed, take your puppy out for one last round of loo-going. Set your bedtime at a later time too — midnight sounds about right. Come back calmly, and place your puppy in the crate and turn out the light. Stuff you should know about Sleep Training your Labrador Your puppy will wake up several times in the night and will need the bathroom at least once! Be prepared for not-so-deep sleeps and tired mornings — just for the first few weeks. Having them sleep next to you is only temporary. Consistency is key! As for you, full nights of sleep will start getting closer and closer. Alone Training How can I teach my Labrador puppy to be ok on their own? Start by feeding your puppy in their crate during meal times. If they seem worried by you leaving, stay in view, and just pop right outside their confinement area. Keep it short and sweet: No need to stay away for long, 60 seconds tops will do for now. Repeat: Do this at least once a day to make progress go steady and smoothly. Socialization Exercises To Do this week Letting your Labrador puppy explore the yard Besides the gnomes and questionable yard furniture you may have, letting your puppy explore your own yard is a great and safe way to start showing them the sounds, lights and wonders of the outside world. Exploring different surfaces exercise Make sure that the surfaces you use are safe — nothing too crazy just yet. Gather surfaces such as An oven tray with a small layer of water A piece of astro turf A carpet tile A large piece of tin foil, cardboard or something crinkly PRO TIP: Set up for this exercise in the room your puppy spends most of their time in — it will help them to feel safe and confident. Pop the surfaces out safely on the floor and allow your puppy to investigate them. Nobody has ever enjoyed walking on those. Remember to be patient! Lucky for you — teaching them their name is easy peasy. Say their name in a happy jolly tone and reward with a treat. Repeat five times, 5 and take a break. Practice this 2 or 3 times a day so they get the hang of it. Teach your puppy to sit Teaching your puppy how to sit is a popular one. The first two are far more common though. Keep using this word when they do the right thing, and then follow it up with a food reward. In puppy logic, stinky means yummy. How to do it Start at home; where there are no distractions. Just make sure to shut off Gogglebox in the background. Recall — How to teach our Labrador puppy to come back when called Your puppy already knows their name at this point, so this should be a walk in the park. How to do it Treats and a cheerful voice will be what works here. Do these exercises before meal times so your puppy is more motivated. Practice this 5 times a day and in 3 different places in your house and yard to get them used to coming to you in all settings. How to do it Show your puppy that you have their favorite toy, and start to get them excited about it. When they show interest, throw it a little bit away from you. They will likely follow it and pick it up. If they do, encourage them back to you with your voice, so remember to sound happy! Swap the toy for a treat or another toy and do the process again. Repeat this about 5 times. Instead create more distance and excitement sounds to get them to come to you — spaniels like to show off, so they will likely want to parade what they have! Always swap the toy for something when they have it, this could be a treat or another toy. Resource guarding occurs when we force puppies to give up items or snatch things out of their mouths. For breeds like Labradors who are designed to want to hold things in their mouths, this is pretty important! Resource guarding is when a dog protects a resource from being taken by someone else — dog or human. For some reason, there is a solid list of things puppies find irresistible: Socks. Print Early obedience first step to better hunting dog Labrador puppies start out sweet and innocent. All you want to do is cuddle up with your pup and love them! And you should! But rest assured the innocence will not last. As your pup gains confidence and courage, they will begin to test you in many ways. That is why you must obedience train your Labrador puppy. Early obedience training is key to establishing borders and boundaries that will help your puppy grow, learn, and adjust with a good attitude. There is no shortcut to doing this, just use the name often when you talk to your puppy. Over time, the pup will start to respond to the name. Socialization, while not technically obedience training, is the single most important thing you can teach your puppy during the first few months of life. If you are not sure how to do this, refer to this post. Tools needed to obedience train Labrador puppy You will need a few tools to teach your puppy obedience. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Collar — You should purchase a size appropriate collar for your new puppy. You may have to buy new ones as your dog grows, but it is important for your puppy to get used to wearing a collar early on. A simple nylon adjustable collar works great. Chain collar — If your puppy is more than a few months old, a chain or prong collar is extremely helpful in teaching obedience, but they must be used correctly. For more information on how to put a chain collar on your dog correctly refer to this video. A longer lead, called a check cord, is also useful for teaching HERE and retrieving. You can learn more about that here. Heeling stick optional — While optional, a heeling stick can be especially helpful in teaching basic obedience. Treats — Treats are good for teaching very young puppies. I use treats for pups under 12 weeks of age, but treats should be discontinued rather quickly. When to start basic puppy obedience training Obedience training can and should start within the first couple weeks of having your puppy home. Young puppies are ready and willing to learn and teaching obedience to a young puppy is much easier than teaching it to an older dog. How long should obedience sessions be? Most labs do not enjoy obedience training. For this reason, we aim to keep obedience sessions short, especially if your dog is under 4-months of age. Five to ten minutes of obedience a day can work wonders. Especially if you are consistent. Using rewards or praise to teach obedience Many people like to use treats or rewards for obedience training. And this can work, especially with very young dogs. But for hunting dogs, over the long-term treats can become a problem. We do not want our dogs, or the dogs we train to be obedient only because they are getting a food reward. We want them to be obedient because they understand their place in the family and respect the owners. To get these lasting results, we use praise words and petting and a reward that retrievers live for — retrieves! Well-timed praise is a particularly important part of dog training. A message that it is okay to ignore me the first 9 times! This simply means that after a few minutes of formal obedience training, we release the dog with an OKAY command and that means they can run around and be a dog. We then throw a bumper or plug a for the dog to retriever. We do this a few times with a lot of excitement and allow the dog to retrieve the bumper. For retriever breeds, this is often more effective than a food reward. Be careful that you are not letting your puppy get into bad habits with retrieving. For instance, if your puppy often goes out to retrieve the bumper but then runs away with it, or picks it up and drops it, do not continue doing retrieves. While retrieving is a reward for many Labs, it is not an excuse to engage in behaviors that are not going to be acceptable in the field. If you want to learn more about how to properly teach your Lab to retrieve, check out How can I teach my retriever puppy to fetch? Introduction to leash and nylon collar The very first step for any puppy obedience is to introduce your puppy to a regular collar and leash. This should be done in two separate steps, first the collar and then the leash. Introduce the collar by putting a nylon type collar on your puppy. This is normal and you should not react to it. Introducing the leash is a little different. We like to do this outside. After a few sessions of this introduction, you can start holding the leash by the end and walking with the puppy. When the puppy tries to run or walk away, hold tight to the leash, and just let the puppy get used to the resistance. Some puppies have a hard time with this and will growl or whine and whip themselves around at the pressure, but most will not. Remain calm and after a few sessions the puppy should get used to the resistance of the leash. Do not allow the puppy to pull you around. That will make for some bad behaviors that you will need to correct later. If you cannot control your puppy with just a regular collar and leash, you may need to move to a chain or prong collar to keep control. What commands to teach Lab puppy There are only four basic obedience commands that you need to teach your young puppy. Remember when it comes to commands, less is more. OKAY — this is a release command, basically tells your dog were done training, go be a dog. As your puppy grows and learns more, there are some other commands that may be needed, but for puppies I like to start with just the four above. Dog training requires consistency Before you start with obedience training, I want to make a note about the importance of consistency. Obedience training only works if you are consistent. This means that when you say a command, you expect the puppy to perform the command, and are willing to take steps to make the puppy perform the command. If you do not remain consistent in this expectation, you will confuse your dog and get poor results from your training. You and your family must be consistent! How to start obedience training Lab puppy The first command you want to start teaching your puppy is SIT. This is quite easy to teach with a small puppy but gets a little tougher as they get bigger. Then release the puppy with the OKAY command. Repeat this process several times, then stop. If your puppy is weeks old, you can repeat this training several times a day for only a couple minutes at a time. This will be a two-person job for a little while. The other person will put the food down a few feet from the puppy. Then release the puppy to eat saying OKAY. As the pup learns and understands the command better, you will no longer need a second person to hold the puppy. You must be a little careful here because young puppies do not have great bladder control and making them wait, even a few seconds, can mean the difference between an accident and them doing their business outside. But this is a great way to teach impulse control and manners to your puppy. I do not want to have to fight for a position by the door. You can usually start working on this within a week or two of teaching SIT. A great way to teach this command to young puppies is to use two people and sit in a long hallway, one at each end. Take turns calling your puppy with a HERE command. A toy or treat can often help the process. Let your puppy run around a bit but hold onto the end of the cord. Occasionally, call you puppy with a HERE command. It can be helpful at first to crouch down to encourage the puppy to run towards you. Then release the puppy with an OKAY command. Do this a few more times and repeat daily until the puppy is coming to you without you needing to pull the cord. It is also the command most of our clients struggle with the most. Mostly because they are using the wrong tool for the job. For heeling work, it is important that you work with a chain or prong collar. This will give you more control and stop the pulling and surging that many people struggle with. Using a chain or prong collar and a six-foot leash, start walking your puppy at your side. If your puppy is young, be sure to use a puppy chain collar which is smaller than chain collars for adult dogs. And make sure that you are putting it on correctly! An alternate tool to a chain collar and leash is the Wonder or Command Lead. These work great for teaching HEEL. As you start walking use gently tugs on the chain collar with the command HERE to keep your puppy at your side. If your puppy surges or pulls ahead, simply make a degree turn and start walking the other direction giving a sharp, upward tug on the chain collar and saying HEEL several times until the dog is back in a heeling position. Many of our clients have told us they never left their driveway the first few days! But if you are patient and consistent, your dog will quickly learn that if they want to go for a walk, they need to stay at your side. If you want to learn and progress in more obedience work, check out these obedience drills for retrievers. Final thoughts on how to teach your lab puppy obedience Teaching your puppy obedience may take a lot of patience, time and work, but it is such an important thing to do. You will never regret the time! A well-mannered dog is such a joy to be around both in the home and in the field. How to obedience train Labrador puppy. Print Raising a retriever puppy like the pros Your Labrador puppy can seem small and fragile during those first few weeks home from the breeder. Labrador puppies will learn quickly about acceptable and unacceptable behavior those first few weeks, if you, the owner, are willing to set and enforce boundaries. Here is the training you should be working on with your week-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post three of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Training and socialization for week-old Labrador puppy — week three home Your week-old puppy has been with your family for approximately 3 weeks now. This week you should start noticing some bigger changes with your puppy. Here are some of the changes I notice with Bubba. First, she is growing fast! Bubba is almost ready for a new collar already. I have loosened her current collar twice, and there is no more room to expand it. She is also learning a lot. Bubba is also becoming more personable. She likes and has more interest in people now and wants to be petted and scratched more often. Training equipment for Lab puppy We added a couple new training tools this week. But a thicker check cord will also work. We use this check cord for longer outside marks and assistant-marks which I will discuss more in a bit. Puppy sized canvas or light-weight plastic bumpers In week two, we introduced formal retrieving in a hallway in the house. In week three, we move outside with retrieving and introduce assistant throws, so it is helpful to have a few more bumpers. Puppy training that will continue Much of the training I have been working on for the past two weeks with Bubba will continue into this week and beyond. Dog training is not something that has a definitive end-date. For instance, you teach your puppy to SIT and then you must work and practice that command daily or weekly, often for months before the response to the command is solid. But even once the response is solid, you cannot completely stop training. If you stop training, even an older dog, the dog can lose the previous training. So, realize that you are never done working with your dog, especially on obedience training. Some areas that we will continue training Bubba on are: Crate training Bubba is doing great at crate training. She rarely makes any noise while in her crate and settles down quickly after being put into her crate. In the upcoming weeks, we will work towards getting Bubba to enter her crate on command. Looking for more information on crate training? Housebreaking Housebreaking Bubba is going well. We have caught her in a few accidents, but she already seems to understand that she is not supposed to go potty inside. This does not mean that she is done housebreaking. We still expect accidents and will for a few months, so we watch her carefully while she is running around in the house. We also praise her for behaviors like going to the door and tapping the door or whining at the door. These behaviors are rewarded with us taking her outside to go potty. When she goes potty outside, we praise her and then take her right back in. We want her to start understanding that these cue behaviors will get her out to go potty and that is all. Looking for more information on housebreaking? But we will also add a few new ones. We will use this while teaching our puppy the SIT command. It also will be used going forward, anytime we are done working on structured obedience work. We will release the dog from formal work with the OKAY command. But we also use it to mean go to a certain place, such as on a mat or stand. Or, when we want her to go into her crate or kennel. This is an associative command, meaning the puppy will learn the command through our repetition of the word as we tie it to a behavior. But over time, she will make the association and will perform it on her own. This is very important especially if you ever plan on doing more advanced training with your retriever. You will use whatever your dogs name is. A few commands that we will continue to work on this week We will continue to work on obedience commands this week and in the weeks to come. Each week we will expect a little more and better compliance and performance to the command. She is sitting when I put the leash and chain collar on her and when I am taking it off. This week we also added SIT before eating. We only make her SIT for a few seconds; we are working on control. She does not SIT on her own yet, but she will be doing that within a week or so I would guess. Right now, I grab her collar and say SIT. In week three, I have a slightly higher expectation. On walks, I make her walk right beside me for a minute or two using the HEEL command before releasing her and letting her run back and forth a bit. This tells me that she understands the command. Then release her. If every time your puppy comes to you, you put her away or take something away from her, soon your puppy will not want to come to you. You must work hard to make coming to you a good experience for your puppy. So, call her, praise her when she comes and release. Remember: Never use a HERE command if you are not in the position of being able to enforce the command. Make every effort to socialize your puppy You should continue to take steps to socialize your week-old puppy. Anything you can think of. The more things and situations you expose your puppy to, the better your puppy will be equipped to adjust and learn in the future. Learn more about socialization. Hand throws with a puppy bumper you are throwing out a bumper done outside will carry a lot more distraction than retrieves in a hallway. Just pick up the bumper and try again tomorrow. When retrieving outside, make sure you have a long foot rope attached to your puppy. Never try to do retrieves outside without a rope. You will have problems and encourage bad behaviors. You must have a way to get the puppy to come back to you, otherwise you should not be doing retrieves outside. Once your puppy is doing well retrieving outside, you are ready to introduce assistant marks. Introduction to assistant marks The most important thing we worked on with Bubba this week is assistant marks. Assistant marks are retrieves where someone else is throwing the bumper, not you. This teaches your puppy to watch out in the field for a mark. It is very rare that a duck will come from behind you, fly over your head and you shoot it. The ducks and pheasants will be falling in front of you, so the dog must learn to look out and watch for the mark. We start assistant marks on very short grass with white plugs so that the puppy can clearly see the item on the ground. We hold the puppy in a SIT position facing a thrower who is about 20 feet from you. When your puppy picks up the bumper, immediately start calling her back to you. Remember, you should have the foot check cord on her so you can pull the puppy in if needed. Then, take the bumper from her, throw it behind you, make your puppy sit facing the thrower again and repeat. Only do retrieves and then call it a day. Soon your puppy will learn this game and love it. They will start facing the thrower on their own and sitting and waiting for a mark. Final thoughts on training for your week-old Labrador puppy week-old puppies are so eager to learn, so be sure and take advantage of this enthusiasm to teach new concepts and enforce previous ones. Continue to teach your puppy to handle more and more pressure and correction while maintaining a good attitude. Lastly, assistant marks are a big deal. Once a dog learns this part of the game, you can work to increase the distance and complexity of the marks. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. What is the best age to start training a Lab puppy to work? This guide will answer all of your questions regarding when to start training a Lab puppy. It will combine my personal experience with that of other experts in the field, along with information from behavioral research, to guide you with your decision of when to start training a Labrador puppy of your own. Congratulations on your fluffy new bundle of joy. Labs gained their well-deserved place among favorite breeds for so many reasons. Enthusiastic companions, fast learners, loyal and brave, Labrador Retrievers are fantastic pets. How Puppies Learn In the natural canine world, mother dogs teach their pups everything they need to know about their world, survival and living together happily in various stages of development. Most professional trainers try to mimic the natural canine learning process in their puppy training phases. In fact, we only recommend positive training techniques. Rewards can include food, special treats, praise and petting, playing with a favorite toy, etc. Basic Training Concepts Every Puppy Should Learn The first two components of your puppy training should be thorough socialization and potty training. Here are a few tips with each of those early behaviors. Socialization actually refers to exposure to a wide range of situations and individuals. This goes for being around lots of different people, including children. While your pup is still impressionable and inquisitive, introduce her to friends, neighbors and strangers. Introduce her to children with careful instructions to stay quiet, move slowly and pet gently. They could end up grabbing her tightly, and scaring or hurting her. Being handled by other people will be very key in socializing your puppy. Your dog should be properly socialized to gentle and careful handling, teeth brushing, touching ears and paws and tail. This will make trips to the vet and groomer easier. Make sure to also check out our guide to taking puppies outside for more help with socialization. Crate Training for Dogs Crate training is the process of teaching your dog to love spending time secure in their cosy den. Some puppies basically crate train themselves, loving their crate from day one. Others need a more gradual introduction to this safe space. The trick is to not turn crating into a punishment , but instead make it a wonderful place to have a short undisturbed rest. Most puppies will go through a play biting phase, so if you need help training your lab not to nip, you can follow this guide. It will be important for your dog to sit quietly in the field or duck stand. Self-control should be incorporated throughout daily routines and all training phases. Finally, learning how to walk politely on a leash in public is important. In addition to the behaviors listed above, there are a few extra considerations for training a gundog. As early as 8 weeks old, professional gundog trainers begin introducing lab puppies to various scenarios. The core behavioral requirements for a gundog that can be started in puppies this young are: Thorough socialization and desensitization to various environments and sounds. Be sure to start with quieter sounds and build to louder sounds, especially when introducing the sound of gunfire, to avoid creating a frantic dog. Calmness and steadiness amidst distraction. The earliest introduction to this is teaching your pup to sit for his meals, which can be captured as early as six weeks. There are, however, two important considerations to your Lab puppy training. Before their leg bones are fully developed, Labs can develop joint issues if they run too hard and long. Second, resist the urge to play fetch and retrieve every day with your Lab puppy. They overdo it with tossing a ball or dummy to try to encourage the pup to retrieve. The retrieving instinct typically kicks in quite strong around puberty between five to 10 months. Instead, we suggest focusing on sit, stay and waiting quietly with self control. Those are the more difficult behaviors for a lab to learn once adolescent hormones kick in. Start with socialization and household manners as early as 8 weeks old. Then move to sit, stay, steadiness training, and walking on a leash between 12 and 18 weeks. Training is an ongoing life skill, rather than something you do once and consider done. For a hunting Lab, adding various distractions and practicing perfect recall in different environments will be the two biggest training techniques to work on throughout life. Enjoy your training!