dream meaning litter of golden retriever puppies

dream meaning litter of golden retriever puppies - Labs are known for being voracious eaters who will over-indulge if allowed. You need to monitor their food intake throughout their lives -- pups that overeat at any growth stage have the potential to develop health problems, including obesity. Newborn Pups Labrador puppies should receive mother's milk exclusively for the first four weeks of life. No other supplement is necessary during this time unless a pup is failing to thrive, in which a vet should be consulted before providing supplemental feeding. A mother begins weaning her pups at 4 weeks. They can transition to a commercial puppy food designed specifically for large breeds that has 25 to 30 percent protein. Young Puppies Labs grow significantly between 8 weeks and 1 year of age. Because of this rapid growth, they require a high-quality puppy food formulated for large-breed dogs. This helps ensure the pup does not grow too quickly, which can lead to bone and joint problems later in life. Lab puppies will eat as much as you give them, so monitor food intake and don't make food available continuously. Adult Labs Lab puppies can be transitioned to a large-breed adult formula dog food at 1 year of age. If your dog is being trained as a hunting dog, he will require more food than when he was a puppy, particularly if he is expending significant energy in the field. Likewise, an adult female used for breeding purposes requires additional food and possibly prenatal supplements. Consult a vet for more information if you are thinking about breeding your dog. Potential Health Problems Labradors are prone to hip, elbow and joint problems as they age, and an overweight dog is more susceptible to these ailments. Maintaining a healthy weight and ensuring your dog gets plenty of exercise helps reduce the potential for these problems. Labs are also susceptible to a condition called gastric dilatation and torsion, sometimes referred to as bloat. Adults often eat so quickly that it causes a gaseous buildup in their intestines that has the potential to be fatal. Reduce the potential for this by feeding your dog food that has been soaked in water or use a feeding bowl that has a raised center section that slows the eating process. They are outgoing, active and affectionate companions who have a lot of energy and love making their owner happy. They have strong retrieving instincts as they were bred to be gun dogs, so they love both soft toys and diving into bodies of water. It is highly unusual for the puppy's owner to care for them during this time and is best left to a responsible, reputable breeder. Your puppy's body will double in weight as their muscles, organs and bones develop. Nutrition During the neonatal stage, your Labrador puppy will get most of their nutrition from their mother's milk. At around 4 weeks you may wish to introduce a mush of minced protein such as beef, but always consult your vet first before changing your puppy's diet at this stage. Health During this time it is important to monitor your Lab for any infections, diseases or birth defects. Puppies are unable to urinate or defecate by themselves initially, so their mother helps them but may additionally require your assistance. Keep your vet's contact details close by and educate yourself thoroughly on this stage of puppy development. By the end of this period, your puppy will be mobile and will explore the world mouth first — be sure to keep choking hazards and toxic foods out of their reach. Behaviour During most of this time your Labrador puppy will be asleep or inactive, but they will soon be playing with their brothers and sisters. After weeks they will go through as much sensory development as a human baby does in a few months. It is important to avoid disturbing the puppies' mother as she will be likely be protective, but some interaction with the young pups is normal so they become used to human touch. This is a formative time for your puppy and will be when they learn to walk, play, bite, hold their bladder, and interact with others. You will soon notice their attentiveness to you and their intense love of play — many Labs keep this caring and fun attitude for their whole lives if you foster it. Nutrition During the weaning stage, you should slowly introduce into their diet a nutritionally complete dog food which is appropriate to your Labrador's large size and young age. Labs are notoriously greedy and will quickly gobble down food and snatch treats from hands. You should familiarise yourself with lists of toxic foods and plants to avoid and hide as your puppy will soon find ways to get into forbidden snacks found only in bins. Labradors puppies instinctively like to 'dig' inside their water bowls so much of their water will end up on the ground. Make sure to get your puppy used to touching inside their small ears as they are prone to ear infections and will need regular checkups. Behaviour Due to the changes in their environment, your Labrador puppy will likely be under a significant amount of stress. It's important that you provide lots of attention and positive reinforcement for good behaviour at this time to establish boundaries early. Labradors are eager to love anyone but can be overbearing, so you should introduce them to a number of different people and environments so that they are not overwhelmed with excitement later in life. PUPPY By the time your Labrador Retriever reaches puppyhood their personality will be well developed and you will have established a loving, social friend who wants to maximise time with you and others. Your Labrador puppy will do well socially and behaviourally from puppy training classes as long as treats are involved. Nutrition Your Labrador puppy's diet should be based around a high quality, nutritionally complete puppy food. You may also wish to introduce them to fresh, lean raw meat — however, don't feed your puppy any meat you would not feed to a fellow human being. Bloat is potentially fatal but can be combatted by feeding your dog two smaller meals per day, a habit you should start while they are a puppy. A rough guide is that they should exercise for minutes per day and less after 5 years when many lose their appetite for long marathons of activity. Your pup will need brushing every few days, with more frequent grooming during seasonal changes to combat shedding. Bathing should be infrequent as this can damage the waterproofing of their coats, however, you should wash them after swimming or rolling in muck. After around 8 weeks your puppy will be due for some vaccinations, so they will need a checkup at the vet and to arrange for boosters after that. Studies showed that dogs supplemented with a diet of bovine colostrum had a quicker and stronger immune system response to CDV vaccine as compared to dogs fed a control diet. Colostrum supplemented dogs maintained a higher antibody level even after 40 weeks A diet supplemented with Colostrum helps bridge the immunity gap in puppies that occurs between 3 weeks and 5 months of age. Behaviour Do not be complacent with training your Labrador puppy — almost all are very gentle and well behaved, but this does not mean that training is unnecessary. Labs are very loving and patient with all that they meet, but they often do not know their own size. To combat this, they should be trained in how to act around small dogs and children to avoid intimidation or accidental injury. They will also benefit from obedience training to drop things from their mouths, avoid rushing across busy streets and make sure they come when called. Recommended Articles. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. As we all know too well, what we put in our belly has a huge impact on our health, vitality, length and quality of life. They have to strike a fine balance between getting enough nutrients to grow and avoiding an over-abundance that can lead to abnormal growth and disabling conditions. In this article you will learn precisely how to feed your puppy. What they can eat, what they should not, how many times you should feed them each day, basic information on home-made diets and the pros and cons of various commercial dog foods. The majority of Labrador owners feed their puppy kibble. Kibble is ground meal, shaped into dried biscuit-like pellets that are extremely convenient to buy, store and feed, providing everything a puppy needs in one easy to handle product. All the major brands carry a range of kibble and many are specifically formulated to suit the precise needs of puppies. For our recommendations of the best puppy food for labs, please read our article on: The Best Food for Labrador Puppies. Good breeders will supply you with all the information you need to feed your new puppy and you should follow this advice. Puppies almost always get upset tummies during a change of diet. The stress of moving to a new home is enough to deal with without them potentially having tummy upset on top. So try to avoid this. But expect your puppy to get diarrhea after such a sudden change. What Can Puppies Eat? With a bewildering choice of different puppy foods available, what to feed your puppy may not be the easiest decision to make. You Can Feed Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is ground up food, formed into pellets and dried for easy storage and convenience. It is a specially formulated, complete and balanced diet, containing everything a puppy needs to grow and be healthy. Many people believe kibble is the best way to feed a puppy, with it being so easy to buy, store and feed while containing every nutrient a puppy needs in the right proportions. Wet, Complete Puppy Foods Are An Option As the name suggests, complete wet dog food is complete and balanced, meaning nothing should be fed in combination. Everything needed is included in this one food. Complete wet foods come in individual pouches or tins with one pouch or tin containing one single serving. In the main these foods are low in nutrition, contain a high amount of cheap fillers, by-products and water and need mixing with a biscuit to give them some substance and to make them more complete. Because the food is such low quality, you have to feed a lot of it. And what goes in, must come out. This type of feeding was popular decades ago and I do remember my parents feeding our first dogs this way, but most people have moved on from this and are feeding their dogs in better ways now. Raw Food, BARF And Home-Made Diets Raw feeding is a diet that consists of mostly raw meat, edible bones and animal organs, though most practitioners also mix in small portions of fruit, veg and selected other foodstuffs. There are many people feel strongly that this is the best possible way to feed a dog. But I would caution most people that to feed this diet successfully, you need to do A LOT of research, gain a lot of knowledge and truly understand a dogs nutritional needs to make sure they get exactly what they need in the right amounts. Many people wonder if they can feed their puppy human foods, anything found in the fridge or larder. Furthermore, there are many human foods that are toxic to dogs that you should avoid at all costs. Too much of some nutrients can be bad in itself, but also prevent the absorption and use of other nutrients too. So supplementing a balanced diet is a bad thing to do. Can You Give Puppies Milk? Assuming you get your puppy at the recommended 8 weeks, they will have been fully weaned before you bring them home. Many puppies are intolerant of cows milk and drinking it leads to an upset tummy and diarrhea so you would do best to avoid giving your puppy any milk at all. One exception is for very young puppies under 6 weeks of age. When we have newborn puppies at our house we sometimes need to supplement and use Esbilac Milk Supplemen t. However, if you have a very young puppy that you think may need supplementing please first consult with your veterinarian. Are They Necessary? You will likely be feeding your puppy a commercially available complete and balanced dog food, in which case you certainly should not supplement their food. Supplementing this will mean too much of one or more things, making it unbalanced which can actually lead to harm. But an excess amount of calcium in the diet of a Lab puppy can lead to skeletal development problems. So adding a calcium supplement to an already complete diet can actually do more harm than good. There may also be times your vet advises you to do so. But if feeding raw, you should know more about nutrition than I do. This is a hard question to answer and sadly I cannot give you a definite quantity or weight to feed them each day. Puppies grow at different rates, some are more active than others and there can be large differences between metabolisms too. However… The biggest determining factor is how concentrated the nutrients and calories are in the brand of food you feed them. High quality foods are nutrient rich and give a puppy all they need from quite small amounts of food. But cheaper brands are full of low quality and nutritionally empty fillers that mean a puppy needs considerably more to get what they need. Start by feeding your puppy according to the guidelines on the label of the puppy food you buy for them. Then see how their body develops. Puppies should not be fat! But at the other end of the scale if they start to look and feel a little slim, up their portion sizes a little. The guidelines on the food you buy are just that…guidelines. You might also be interested in:. We may receive commissions from purchases made via our links. In the beginning, the food needs for my Labrador Molly changed dramatically. I worried that I was feeding her too little. As she grew older, I became concerned that I was feeding her too much. So, how often should you feed a Labrador? You should feed an adult Labrador two meals per day. You should feed Labrador puppies three meals per day, unless otherwise stated on the food packaging. It is essential to adhere to food schedules that are consistent for the long-term health of your Lab. You should also be aware of how to handle situations when your dog doesn't want to eat on schedule or doesn't finish its meal. In this article Labrador Feeding Schedules Labrador adults, like most dogs, work well when fed on a schedule. Twice per day is the standard as it allows the dog to eat and digest properly. Puppies will require more frequent feedings, though, as they expend far more energy and smaller stomachs to hold their needed food. If you have a Labrador that gets a lot of exercise, you may want to consider feeding them less food more often, as they will likely feel hungry sooner. Age, size, and the food's nutritional content should determine the amount of food given. Whatever the frequency, it's crucial for your puppy or dog to have a regular feeding schedule. Disrupting this can cause digestive problems that are unpleasant for the dog and the owner. According to Veterinary Centers of America, dogs are creatures of habit that need the security and predictability of their feeding routine. In addition, keeping the feeding schedule consistent helps your pet cope with other changes that may occur within the household. Lastly, never free-feed a Labrador. While Labradors may not technically eat themselves to death , they can certainly make themselves sick if you let them decide how much and how often to eat. This is especially true while you're trying to establish a set routine for when your Lab will eat its meals. Feed Your Lab Less Food More Frequently If you find that your Labrador isn't interested in eating the entire meal in a single sitting, you can add more mealtime if it works for your schedule. To do this, you should take the whole day's meal portion and divide it evenly into the desired number of meals. If you add an extra mealtime, you should serve 1 cup at each of the three meals. In other words, adding another mealtime doesn't mean that you add more food intake to the day's total. Use Interactive Food Dispensers Another option is to use an interactive toy to dispense the food, which may help to keep your dog's attention for the entire mealtime. It is an excellent option to hide food or treats. This particular item is perfect for a Labrador because it will allow your pet to use its intelligence to solve a puzzle and problem-solve while being rewarded with the kibble hidden inside. Although it isn't a good option for every Lab's mealtime, it is an idea for a pup that loses interest in their food before finishing. How Much to Feed a Labrador Your Lab's portions at each meal should depend on a few different factors. First of all, you need to know if your pup is currently at a healthy weight. So the best thing to do in this case is to ask your veterinarian if your Lab is at a healthy weight. If your Lab is not at an ideal weight , you'll need to talk to your vet and amend the feeding plan. You may also consider a specialized food designed to help your dog reach the appropriate weight. Your Labrador's activity level will also impact how much he needs to eat each day. It's always a good idea to consult the feeding guide on your dog food and your veterinarian's advice to make an informed decision. Labrador Feeding Schedule Examples To give you an idea of a standard feeding schedule and meal plan, here is a chart based on the feeding recommendation from Royal Canin's Labrador Retriever dry puppy food : Adult Target Weight:. Naturally, Labrador puppies would require more feeding times. Hence, you should only set a few hours interval between meals. As for adult Labs, optimal feeding times would be one in the morning, afternoon, and night. Almost identical to human eating hours. Along with implementing a time frame for mealtime, owners must be open to modifying combinations of puppy food throughout the first two years of the pup. Abrupt growth spurts may bring changes in their eating habits. Once your dog reaches one year old, its dog food is enough to sustain its energy for longer. Always ensure to follow the correct feeding schedule when feeding kibble or other types of dog food to ensure nutritional requirements are met. Regardless if you have chocolate , red fox , or Dudley Labrador , make it a priority to visit a pet nutritionist to obtain an accurate feeding time and quantity specifically designed for your pooch. They help in hunting, farming, and even therapy. As such, they require an energy-loaded diet and dog foods that are rich in protein and carbohydrates to keep up with their activities. Since they belong to the large breed classification, they are also prone to common health risks such as arthritis and other joint diseases. To prevent this, scour the local pet store with dog food that contains omega fatty acids, B vitamins, beta-carotene , and amino acids. These nutrients are essential to obtain, whether from a raw food diet, home-prepared meals, or commercial dog food. Here are some of the best dog foods we recommend for your Labrador Retriever: Wet Food: Like kibble, commercially available wet dog food is common and already a complete and balanced diet for your Labrador puppy or adult dog. Its smooth texture is well-loved by purebreds and mixed breeds alike. Eating wet food that contains Docosahexaenoic acid DHA , glucosamine, and Eicosapentaenoic acid EPA helps support the condition of their joints and heart. Dry Food: When on the hunt for the most suitable dry dog food, always look for grain-free and made from whole food sources so it can easily be digested. Also, check the food labels and ensure that it has a perfect balance of carbohydrates and fats. Highly fortified and breed-specific kibble is also recommended. Homemade Food: Considering how much your adult dog or Lab puppy eats, a healthy diet made from scratch can be a great alternative to avoid obesity. Just mix everything together with a little water to incorporate them better. Furthermore, this diet opts for low sodium content. Owners should include fish and flaxseed oil, carrots, eggs, liver, and beans into the raw puppy food diet. Since Labrador Retrievers are energetic and active dogs, it is best to give them a moderate to high-fat diet. As long as they are able to exercise daily, they can easily work it off and avoid being overweight. However, if they are more on the lax side, adjust their food intake from low to moderate calories. If they cannot burn off the calories, enroll them in a low-fat or low-protein diet instead. Excessive carbs can increase their blood sugar and may put your dogs at risk for diabetes. It may take extra time and effort, but the investment will definitely pay off. Once you learn the appropriate feeding pattern, then having a healthy dog with strong joints and a better digestive and immune system is easily attainable. That includes sharing our belongings, space, and most especially, our food. However, the American Kennel Club reminds owners to be aware of what human food is safe for dogs. In this section, you will learn which foods are okay for consumption and which food can harm our Labrador Retrievers. Physically, it can block their esophagus if not chewed properly. Moreover, some may also contain salt that can be fatal to their heart. Chocolate: Chocolate in any other form should not be given to dogs. Chocolate has toxic substances called methylxanthines that put a stop to their metabolic process. It can still be toxic even in the smallest amount as it may cause diarrhea or vomiting. Garlic and Allium Plants: Alliums such as garlic, chives, leeks, and onions are not good for dog consumption. Although regularly seen across social media, feeding your pooch ice cream is not recommended. It contains loads of sugar, and some dogs may be lactose intolerant as well. As an alternative, owners can always freeze berries and apples as a regular icy treat. On the contrary, here are some of the most friendly human foods for all dogs, including Labrador Retrievers: Milk: Milk is a great supplement of other nutrients for dogs. Just be mindful that your dog is not lactose intolerant. It should only be given in small quantities as a treat. Popcorn: On a movie night, dogs can also munch on popcorn. However, ensure that it is unsalted, unflavored, and air-popped. In moderation, it is a good source of thiamine and riboflavin for eyesight. Remove any unpopped kernels to avoid choking. Seafood: In addition, seafood such as salmon and shrimp contain good fats and are high in antioxidants. Seafood boosts their immune system and brain health. Be sure to thoroughly cook salmon, fish, and shrimp all the way through to avoid parasites. Eggs: Eggs are also safe for dogs so long as they are also cooked well. Cheese: Cheese can also be given to dogs in moderate quantities. Go for low-fat cheese as a treat. Mozzarella and cottage cheese are some that can be fully enjoyed by dogs without the fat guilt. A small amount of prohibited food is not worth an emergency trip to a vet. Throughout their life stages, a dog will not just undergo one food switch. Age, health, and other factors can fuel a change in their diet. As stated earlier, an abrupt change in their food will only cause an upset stomach and indigestion. There are a couple of reasons to switch food. Add the new food into each meal gradually and reduce the portion of their current food. This method can also be followed when changing from dry kibble to raw feeding and vice versa. Some reasons for change can be prompted by age. Different life stages will require different nutritional requirements for your dog. Other reasons may be caused by allergies, brand availability, and weight management. It is still best to consult your trusted vet about changing their overall food regimen. They just enjoy feeding their pooch with tons of food and love seeing them get fat. However, that is not considered proper care for them. Experienced dog breeders know precisely what an overweight dog looks like and how to feed them properly. Labradors are known for their love of food. They are incapable of switching off their hunger signals even after eating. As a result, Labs have a higher number of overweight dogs in the United States. Like with other dogs, overfeeding a dog can lead to obesity. Thankfully, there are ways to address this and protect the health of our pooch in the long run. An eye-opening first step is to have a handy Labrador food guide. Having this will help you gauge the correct amount of food your dog needs depending on its age and other factors as well. Log what they eat and how much they eat during each meal. Calculating their calorie intake is also helpful for medical purposes and when switching food. Furthermore, avoid feeding overweight dogs table scraps. Many owners are guilty of this habit. Much like table scraps, it is also best to limit dog treats. Entice dogs with treats only on special occasions and during training. These are just some of the simple things you can do to control an overweight pooch. When it comes to other methods, it is always advisable to speak with your vet. Dogs lose their appetite due to some reasons. Do Labrador Retrievers Eat a lot? Yes, Labrador Retrievers are a food-motivated breed. This is why owners need to control their food intake. Can Labrador Retrievers Eat Bones? Bones are a good source of minerals, so they can be good for Labrador Retrievers. However, it may come with serious physical trade-offs. Give only large, raw bones and supervise them from time to time. Dispose of the bone after 3 to 4 days. Can Labrador Retrievers Be Vegetarians? Yes, Labrador Retrievers can thrive with a proper vegetable diet in place. In fact, soy and other whole grains are perfect substitutes for meat for protein. However, a vegetarian diet is something that needs professional input from vets. Final Thoughts Labs are the most popular dog breed in the United States. Thus, there are a lot of available materials on how to take care of and feed this easy-going pooch properly. For starters, it is highly recommended to have a Labrador feeding schedule to guide you with the amount and frequency of feeding. Although Labrador food is accessible for purchase anywhere, you can also introduce them in a raw diet or homemade meals. Regardless of what type of food you choose to give, you need to ensure to feed your dog a complete diet that supports their growth and overall health. As an owner, it is a big responsibility to provide them with only the best, so these high-spirited companions can have a happy and longer life. Will you follow this Labrador food guide? What are your feeding methods with your pooch? Share and comment your thoughts below! My passion for animals started at a very young age as I grow up on a farm with several horses, cows, cats, chickens, and dogs on our property. Leave a Comment. Check Price on Amazon Chicken Labradors can eat chicken, and countless dog foods contain chicken. This high-protein food will provide your Lab with lots of energy. Chicken also contains glucosamine for healthy bones. Ensure the chicken is plain and avoid the skin as this is high in fat. Coconut Labradors can eat coconut. It contains abundant antioxidants to support the immune system, reduce inflammation, and prevent viruses. Coconut is an enjoyable human food to give to your Labrador. It can be kind of confusing, but coconut is actually a fruit! Therefore, it does not contain most proteins that cause tree nut allergies or sensitivities, such as almonds or cashews. You can try feeding your Lab a small piece to see if he likes it but remember to remove the shell first. Corn Labradors can eat corn. This starchy vegetable can provide fiber, protein, vitamins, and minerals for your Labrador. It is also rich in linoleic acid and antioxidants. You should also not feed popcorn containing butter or salt to your dog. Cucumber Labradors can eat cucumbers, and they offer lots of nutritional value. They contain calcium, magnesium, copper, and potassium and are loaded with vitamins K, C, and B1. Cucumber is often the topic of many discussions among culinary experts. Most canines love this refreshing delight. Ensure you remove the peel and chop it into small pieces before serving. Eggs Labradors can eat eggs. They are perfectly safe, are a fantastic protein option, and are loaded with healthy vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and fatty acids, all of which serve your dog many nutritional benefits. Eggs are known for having the perfect balance of nutrients. Despite the controversy around eggs decades ago, scientists have since concluded that their high levels of dietary cholesterol are not associated with heart disease and that saturated fat has a far more significant effect on blood cholesterol levels. It is best to cook eggs first before feeding your dog due to the risk of salmonella in raw eggs, although this risk is low and can be further minimized by using free-range eggs and storing them in a cool, dry place. Green Beans Labradors can eat green beans. They are highly nutritious, full of essential vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and fiber, and are low in calories. Most dogs tend to enjoy green beans. Milk Labradors can drink milk. However, as with all dairy foods, whether you give it to your dog depends if he can tolerate the lactose. Nonetheless, milk contains high amounts of calcium and vitamin D, making it good for healthy teeth and bones. Milk also contains potassium, which is excellent for the heart. Furthermore, it has all essential amino acids, many vitamins, minerals, and healthy omega-3 fatty acids. My dog enjoys a small bowl of milk once a week without any adverse effects. Noodles Labradors can eat noodles. Although a low nutritional food, they contain micronutrients such as iron, folate, manganese, and B vitamins. A small treat of plain noodles is, therefore, safe human food for Labradors. Noodles are made with soft flour milled from common bread wheat and mixed with water or eggs. So as mentioned, if your dog has an allergy to eggs, then make sure to avoid egg noodles. Likewise, if your dog has a wheat allergy, he should avoid noodles altogether. Another thing to watch out for is that dried noodles often contain a high amount of salt sodium , so you will need to check this first. Japenese ramen noodles are loaded with sodium or flavored with soy sauce, and your dog should not eat these. This staple food is high in fiber and loaded with other nutrients such as vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. Oatmeal is also a great alternative if your dog is sensitive to grains or wheat, although, contrary to popular belief, a food allergy in dogs is rare. This misconception is due to the often misleading marketing of grain-free dog foods. Mix the oatmeal with water and serve cooked with nothing added, such as butter or syrup. Your Labrador will enjoy one or two spoonfuls added to his food. Remember, this food is a carbohydrate and is high in calories. Parsnips Labradors can eat parsnips. They are excellent veggies to give to your Lab as they contain plenty of potassium, folic acid, and vitamins C and B6. Parsnips are better fed cooked, but dogs can eat them raw as long as they are cut into small pieces. Ensure you only feed in moderation, as parsnips are quite starchy like other root vegetables such as beets, sweet potatoes, and carrots. Once considered fattening and starchy, this staple food is now regarded as nutritious, providing lots of energy. Although high carb, whole-grain pasta is high in fiber and provides a good source of manganese and selenium. Pasta tends to be made from semolina flour, which is milled from durum hard wheat. Dogs should not eat pasta sauces, so go easy on the spaghetti bolognese! They often contain garlic and onions, which are both poisonous. Peanuts Labradors can eat peanuts. They are rich in healthy unsaturated fats, fiber, and many vitamins and minerals. However, as they are high in fat, they can cause stomach upset, so feed sparingly. Due to their high-calorie count, they can also cause weight gain. You should also consider the general risks of choking. Fun Fact! Did you know that peanuts are not technically nuts? They are legumes, similar to peas and lentils, as they grow in pods that mature beneath the ground. However, for nutritional and culinary purposes, peanuts are considered a nut. Peanut Butter Labradors can eat peanut butter if it does not contain xylitol a sugar substitute and is fed in moderation. Peanut butter is an excellent source of healthy fats, protein, niacin, and vitamins B and E. Peanut butter is a high-value treat and is, therefore, ideal during training sessions. I love the KONG range of toys as they last a lifetime, with many to choose from. Peas Labradors can eat peas. They are excellent for the eyes, heart, and skin due to their several vitamins, such as A, K, and B. Peas also contain iron, zinc, magnesium, potassium, and fiber. As starchy carbohydrates, they are good for boosting energy. Fresh or frozen peas are okay, but avoid the canned variety due to the high salt content. Pineapple Labradors can eat pineapple, a juicy fruit full of vitamins and minerals. Pineapple fights inflammation, promotes tissue healing, aids digestion, and relieves arthritic pain. Frozen chunks of pineapple make an excellent treat in warm weather — they will help keep your dog cool and hydrated. However, avoid canned pineapple due to its high sugar content. This high-protein food contains many vitamins and minerals such as thiamine, zinc, vitamin B6 and B12, iron, niacin, and phosphorus. Your Lab should not eat raw pork as it contains a parasite that can cause an infection — unless your dog already eats a specially prepared raw diet. All fat must be removed as too much fat can lead to an upset stomach and inflammation of the pancreas. Never let your dog have cooked pork bones as they are very brittle and can splinter into sharp pieces in his mouth or along his digestive tract. They are also a choking risk. Processed pork meats such as bacon, ham, and sausage, should also not be eaten due to their high salt content. Raw and green potatoes contain solanine, a toxic compound. However, the cooking process eliminates this danger. Potatoes are starchy vegetables containing vitamin C, B6, iron, and magnesium. Being a high carbohydrate food, they provide lots of energy, so you should only feed sparingly. Pumpkin Labs can eat pumpkin; it is an excellent human food for your dog. Pumpkin is full of insoluble and soluble fiber and is ideal if your dog is constipated or has diarrhea! The seeds are also safe to eat. Pumpkin is best cooked — your Lab will have difficulty digesting it raw. Rice Labradors can eat cooked plain rice, a common ingredient of dog food. However, brown whole grain rice is a healthier option so look out for this when choosing your brand. Rice is a carbohydrate and therefore must be eaten in moderation, but as long as your dog maintains a healthy weight, a little rice added to his meal every now and again will cause no harm. Cooked plain white rice not brown is given to a Lab suffering from diarrhea. Salmon Labradors can eat salmon, which is an excellent choice of fish for dogs. Salmon is a high source of protein and is in many top-quality dog foods. My dog adores salmon. Sweet Potato Labradors can eat sweet potatoes. They contain beta-carotene, which is excellent for growth and vision, are a natural source of fiber, and contain vitamins such as C, B6, E, and A. They are superb for the overall health and wellbeing of your dog. But, as a starchy carbohydrate, they are probably best avoided if your Labrador is overweight, less active, or diabetic. Sweet potatoes should be cooked and the skin removed before feeding your dog. You can bake, mash, or puree them. Due to their nutritional value, they are a popular source of carbohydrates in high-quality dog foods. Tuna and Mackerel Tuna and mackerel are excellent foods for your Labrador to eat. They also contain many healthy vitamins and minerals such as vitamin D, B12, B6, iron, potassium, magnesium, and antioxidants. There is some mixed opinion on whether dogs should eat tuna and mackerel due to their higher mercury levels than other fish. However, as with most human foods you give to your Labrador, moderation is key. My dog quickly devours a few chunks of canned tuna scattered over her food. Turkey Labradors can eat Turkey, a high-protein food rich in nutrients such as B vitamins, including thiamine and riboflavin. Turkey also contains selenium, helping to regulate metabolism. Turkey breast is healthier as the legs contain more fat. Yogurt Labradors can eat yogurt. Stick to Greek yogurt or low-fat plain, natural yogurt. Can Labradors Eat Human Food? Labrador Retrievers can eat human food. Dogs evolved from wolves thousands of years ago, and as they lived alongside humans, they shared food. As society progressed and dog ownership grew, there were never enough table scraps and leftovers to feed our dogs, and so in the s, the first dog biscuit was created by businessman James Spratt. The biscuit was made from wheat, vegetables, and beetroot, and bound with beef blood and was the start of commercial dry dog food as we know it. In canned wet food was introduced, the main ingredient being horsemeat. Why does this matter? How to Feed Human Food To Dogs: Safety First When feeding your Labrador human foods, there are a few important safety rules you should follow: Human foods that you feed your Labrador should be in moderation. Introduce different foods gradually. This should prevent any unwanted side effects. Cook all meats — unless your Lab is familiar with a safely prepared raw diet. Avoid processed meats such as ham, sausage, and bacon as they contain high amounts of salt or seasoning. Dogs with lactose intolerance should not consume dairy products. There are different levels of lactose in dairy foods, so your Labrador may be able to tolerate some foods but not others. For example, my dog can eat cheese and yogurt, but she reacts to even a few licks of heavy whipping cream! Fish should be cooked — due to the risk of bacteria. Longer living species of fish such as mackerel and tuna may contain high amounts of mercury, so if you opt for these types, feed sparingly. Remove seeds or pits from fruits. Examples are nectarines, peaches, and plums. They contain toxic cyanide traces, and they are also a choking hazard. Vegetables are better cooked. This is because dogs find them easier to digest, but some can be given raw such as carrots and green beans. Bones should also be larger than the muzzle to prevent choking. A beef shank bone is perfect. Poisoning episodes in dogs are usually due to a lack of knowledge by the owner, as reported by Frontiers in Veterinary Science. Some poisonings could result in severe illness or worse — depending on the amount consumed and the potency. You can find more details about toxic foods for Labs in this article. Table scraps and snacks There are so many different brands of Labrador food available! And so many different opinions on dog food generally. Not to mention the alternatives to commercial food. Labrador Feeding Guide The amount you feed your Lab will vary depending on his age and the type of food you are giving him. The Eukanuba Adult Breed Lamb and Rice food suggests these serving sizes: 40 — 45 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 50 — 55 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 60 — 65 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 70 — 75 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 80 — 85 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 90 — 95 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day However, these serving sizes will change depending on the food you use, and only apply to dry kibble! Most experts agree that the best food for any dog is one that keeps him in excellent health at a reasonable price. And choosing the best dog food for Labradors is not straightforward. We will look at the different styles of feeding first. How to feed a Labrador — different methods There are currently two very different approaches to dog feeding that are popular with many Labrador owners. Both methods of feeding have their supporters and detractors. At one time a lot of dogs were fed on canned food with an added biscuit mixer. Nowadays, only a small number of dog owners still feed this way. What about BARF? At one time, raw feeding or what you probably know as the BARF diet was considered to be a cranky and extremist fad. But as interest in raw feeding has grown and more dogs are fed this way, it is becoming clear that they are thriving too. The majority of dogs are now being fed kibble and a substantial and the growing minority are fed raw. Labrador dog food choices — dry kibble By far the majority of Labrador owners nowadays, feed their dogs on kibble. That is the dried pellets of dog food that you can buy in pet stores and online. All major pet food companies now supply a dried version of their brands. Is kibble good for dogs? It is really only a very short time a couple of decades since almost all dogs were fed on canned meat. These are a lot less popular now. The effect that this shift away from wet food and onto dried food, has had if any on canine health remain the subject of intense speculation. Busy modern homes are pressed for time these days. So convenience is an important factor. Storage Not only is kibble convenient, it also stores well, even after opening. Provided that it is stored in an appropriate container and kept in a dry place. Most dogs nowadays are trained with food. But what comes out of a kibble-fed dog smells very unpleasant. These are additional bulking agents that are not fully digested and that pass through straight through the dog. These fillers mean that kibble fed dogs produce much greater quantities of poop and much smellier poop, than dogs fed on raw meat and bones. Kibble fed dogs may also need their teeth cleaning on a daily basis. There may also be a small increased risk of bloat in susceptible dogs fed on a dry food diet. Should I feed my dog raw meat? Over the last ten years a more natural raw diet of meat and bones has become increasingly popular. Some people now believe that raw meat is the best food for Labrador Retrievers and many other breeds of dog. This is despite some websites giving out dire warnings of the dangers of letting dogs consume bones. Unfortunately, raw feeding does seem to attract a few extremists. Plus, it can be tricky to find objective and unbiased discussions of the pros and cons of raw feeding on the internet. The pros and cons Raw feeding is quite a big topic. It is both complicated and simple. Complicated because we tend to worry about the nutrients our dogs are getting. Raw feeding is not as convenient as kibble feeding, It requires plenty of freezer and refrigeration space, a designated preparation surface, and good meat preparation hygiene. Just as with meat preparation for people. Small puppies are growing fast and are vulnerable to diets with a poor nutrient balance. It is very important you do your research before attempting to raw feed a small puppy. This is because raw fed dogs get messy. It is hard in this situation to keep raw meat juices containing pathogens, away from children too small to understand the importance of hand washing The important fact here is that there is no right way to feed a dog. Your family needs to be considered as a whole. The feeding method you choose needs to fit in to your lifestyle and current circumstances. I fed raw to my dogs for many years. But I did not do this and could not have done this, when my kids were little. Nowadays, I sometimes feed kibble, if circumstances demand it. But prefer to feed raw whenever I can. Remember, many dogs thrive on kibble, and many dogs thrive on raw. Choosing the best dog food for Labs may also depend on your own circumstances. If you have a small puppy you may be happier feeding kibble With children under five, it may be safer for you to feed kibble If your dog has a close relative that has suffered from bloat, he may be safer eating raw If your dog suffers from allergies, he might do better on raw Now may be the right time to feed raw for you, or it may be the right time to feed kibble. Your circumstances are unique so only you can decide. For those of you the majority that will be feeding kibble. Choosing the lowest price Labrador food may not necessarily be the cheapest option. As very often, you will need to feed larger quantities of the cheaper food. Biologically appropriate kibble? It is usually a reasonable option to choose a mid-range in terms of cost food and see how your dog gets on with that. If your wallet can stretch to it, we especially like the Orijen brand. Orijen is what my dogs have as training food, and when I am not able to feed them raw. So if you decide to switch brands, do it gradually over the space of a few days by adding a little more of the new food and a little less of the old, each day. How often to feed your Labrador Many dog owners continue to feed their dogs twice a day throughout their lives. Some people feed their dogs once a day after twelve months of age. We do know that there is an association between bloat and large meals. Though this may only apply to kibble Once daily feeding is probably fine if you decide to feed raw meat. But with kibble it may be too much dry food in one go. I recommend that you feed your adult dog morning and evening. How often to feed puppies The amount of food that your Labrador puppy needs to eat each day must be divided into several portions. But it will almost certainly give him diarrhoea and could damage his stomach as kibble swells after drinking. From eight to twelve weeks your puppy will benefit from four meals a day. Breakfast, lunch, tea and supper. Space the meals at least three hours apart to give him chance to digest them properly. And make sure the last meal is a two to three hours before his last trip to the toilet at bedtime. Once your puppy gets to three months old you can divide his daily ration into three portions, and by six months to two. Breakfast and supper. How much to feed a Labrador? Recommended quantities can be found on kibble packaging and these will vary quite widely from brand to brand. They are also often on the high side. If your dog is a little overweight, feed about a third less than recommended for a few days and then re-assess his appearance. Your dog may well need less food than you think. How long should a dog take to eat his dinner? I prefer my dogs to eat their meals up fairly quickly. Plus, he will eat more enthusiastically at the next meal if he is a little hungry. How to feed a Labrador slowly A much more common problem in Labradors, is the dog that scoffs his dinner in a heartbeat and then begs for more with pleading eyes. There is an association between bloat and rapid eating, so if you can slow down your dog a little, it is probably good thing. The best way to do that is by using a slow feed bowl. Provided there is nothing in there which is unsuitable. Giving leftovers to puppies Puppies need a very well balanced diet to grow up strong and healthy. Unless you are a very experienced dog owner and knowledgable about nutrition and the dietary needs of a growing animal, it is not a good idea to feed your puppy on household scraps. And complete puppy foods contain all the nutrients your pup needs to develop a healthy body. Dog feeding equipment and storage There is a huge choice of feeding bowls available. You can get some very cheap and colorful plastic bowls. I like stainless steel. But I admit it is quite noisy to handle and use. And not as pretty as some of the ceramic products. Think carefully before you buy raised bowls as some studies have associated these with bloat. Storing dog food Kibble is for the most part a convenient food source. To keep your food fresh, an airtight container is a better bet. We like the wheeled pet food storage bins and they enable you to move heavy quantities of food around without putting your back out! This slimline version fits nicely in a cupboard. Well worth thinking about, especially if you have several dogs to feed. There are also some gorgeous storage containers now that beg to be put out on display. Feeding Labrador puppies When you first bring your puppy home, your breeder should have provided you with a diet sheet, some food, and plenty of information on feeding Labrador puppies. It is really important to stick with his familiar food for the first few days. Moving home is traumatic enough for an eight week old pup without giving his tummy a shock too. If you have not been given any food or any information on how to feed a puppy then I suggest you call in to your local pet store and buy a small sack of kibble puppy food that is appropriate for his breed and age. Giving water to your Labrador Puppies and older dogs need water available to them at all times during the day. Provided that it is at least an hour since his last meal. Kibble fed dogs drink quite a lot of water, raw fed dogs may drink very little. This is normal. When feeding problems need veterinary help All puppies need regular veterinary check ups and when you take your puppy to the vet for his vaccinations. This is a great time to ask any questions you might have on his diet and welfare generally. All dogs may eat less in very hot weather. But changes in appetite, especially sudden changes, can be a sign that a dog is not well. How often and what time to feed I will show you the best puppy foods, whether dry, wet, or raw, and look at food safety, together with schedules, quantities and even a handy puppy diet chart. Best Puppy Food for Labs The best Labrador puppy food provides a diet that is nutritious, healthy, and tasty. So, what is the best puppy food for your Lab? Puppy kibble or dried food is the most popular option. Kibble is complete and can give a perfectly balanced diet. Puppy kibble and tinned dog meat combined is another common choice among puppy parents. Feeding your Labrador puppy on home cooked food or on a totally raw diet is also possible. Raw puppy food is growing in popularity, and there are pros and cons to raw feeding your puppy. People often feel very strongly that one way of feeding is better than another, and you can always find evidence to support your view. Dog breeders, veterinarians and even nutritionists have their own strong views. The dire consequences they list for not listening to them can have puppy owners very worried. The truth is that there is no good quality evidence showing that kibble is better for the long term health of your dog, or that raw feeding is better. There are risks and benefits to both, and the main thing is to ensure that your dog has good quality food to eat. Puppy kibble suits some better, and raw puppy food is better for others. Puppy Kibble for your Labrador Puppy food made into pellets is called kibble. An airtight plastic container or tin will do the job, although you should make sure it is food grade quality. Puppy kibble is the best way of feeding your Labrador according to most breeders and your veterinarian is most likely to support this method of feeding. Good puppy kibble will contain every nutrient your Labrador puppy needs in order to grow and remain healthy. The kibble pieces will be tasty, good for keeping teeth healthy, and free from additives that can provoke allergies or stomach problems. Labrador puppy kibble only needs to be fed next to water. Puppy kibble from a reputable manufacturer is intended to be a complete and balanced food. But some owners like to mix in canned dog food or even scraps of raw food with kibble. Your puppy is likely to get an upset stomach or to not have the right balance of nutrition when fed this way. Whether you decide to feed only with kibble or you want to mix it up, pick a good dried food manufacturer and stick with them. Feeding your Labrador puppy raw food has its benefits and drawbacks. One of the downsides is that there is a lot to learn. Here is a link to the articles you need to help you decide whether or not raw feeding is for you: Although I like the raw diet for my dogs, most puppies fed kibble go on to have long and healthy lives. Whatever puppy food you choose, the most important thing is portion control. How Much to Feed your Labrador Puppy? People often tell me how much their puppy weighs, and ask how much puppy food they should give him. Your Labrador is particularly at risk if they grow too quickly. The following diet chart is for kibble fed puppies and does not apply to raw fed pups. It gives you an idea of how much to feed your Labrador puppy Lab Puppy Feeding Chart The Lab puppy feeding chart below is only a very rough guide. The quantity of food you need for your puppy will vary depending on your puppy and on the brand of food you are feeding him. Labrador puppy food must be aimed at medium to large breed dogs. Check the pack carefully and look at the dietary charts. Ideally, you want the optimal protein content and the lowest amount of additives. Part of this always comes down to the cost. The healthiest puppy food is usually the most expensive and may not be affordable for some families. The Cost Of Puppy Food Some puppy food brands are more concentrated than and contain a higher proportion of proteins, essential oils, and other nutrients. The absence of these fillers means that you can often feed lower quantities of more costly food, making them less expensive than they first seem. You might also find that cheaper brands make your puppy poop more due to those extra fillers going straight through him. While some brands are beyond the budget of many families, it is usually good to buy a premium brand. High Quality Brands of Puppy Food Some brands of puppy food have developed a reputation for producing a high quality product and have many devoted supporters, including breeders that have fed them to generations of puppies.

Related services:

dream meaning litter of golden retriever puppies - E-mail Us About Us My love of poodles started when I was three years old with a miniature poodle named Pierre of course, it was the 's who lived to be almost 18 years old. After loving several other wonderful dogs of different and mixed breeds, I returned to poodles because of their intelligence, their conformation, and so I wouldn't have to vacuum as much. Enter Ania who became my loving sole mate for 13 years. Throughout her time, she patiently adapted to her place in my life as I married, had children, and brought other poodles into her home. Hobbes came to us as troubled rescue, and then Abigale, who Ania put up with in the last months of her life, and who now partially fills the hole in my heart that Ania left behind. The Us of Clifton Standards includes my husband Wayne who has grown to love poodles, espousing their virtues and dispelling the stereotypes as vehemently as a breed lifer. My daughters Andrea and Roxanne complete our home, feigning amusement with each item of poodle paraphernalia and every poodle sighting that I bring in the door. They provide the essential cuddling only children can give to ensure that our puppies come prepared to become a member of your family. Our Commitment We are committed to breeding dogs for a lifetime of health and happiness, and choose for breeding only those dogs that represent the breed standard, and which have a calm and congenial temperament. All of our dogs come with a health guarantee, and we do everything we can to breed dogs clear of any predictable genetic disorders. We are also participating with the National Institutes of Health research on squamous cell carcinoma SSC , as our rescue, Hobbes, suffers from this form of cancer. We also are committed to each puppy that we produce, and ask that if for any reason an owner can no longer care for a dog they adopt from us, that they return it to us so that we can find it a new, appropriate home. We never want to see a dog that we are responsible for bringing into this world ending up in rescue, or a shelter. Our Foundation Clifton Standards was new in , but cames from well-established lines. Our founding animal Abigale Parrishill Oo La La comes from generations of over 50 AKC champions, whose successes in the show ring reafirm each of the breeders commitment to sound, healthy dogs. A special, heartfelt thanks goes to Marion Banta of Parrishill Standard Poodles who has kindly and patiently mentored me in the world of poodle showing and breeding. Marion has been a breeder for over 20 years, and I cannot thank her enough for sharing her knowledge and instinct with me. Please contact Connie via email highview gmail. Deposits will be refunded if the gender or color preference requested is not available in the litter you placed your deposit on. There are no refunds otherwise You may move your deposit to the next available litter, providing we can not provide you with the color or gender you requested, This would be at your discretion. Puppies are vet checked, first puppy vaccination, dewormed and microchipped at 8 weeks of age, prior to leaving for new homes. We request all perspective homes have the puppy they have chosen to be examined by your vet within the first 72 hours of purchase. After the 72 hours period we will register your puppy online directly to you the buyer with the American Kennel Club. The American Kennel Club will then mail your registration papers to you You may reach us by calling or our email highview gmail. We reserve the right of refusal Health Tested, Champion sired puppies are occasionally available to companion homes. Our puppies are socialized from birth and come with a Health Waranty and a written contract. We do not cross our Poodles with "Doodles" or any other mixed breed, so please do not ask. Our Story The very first Poodle in my life was in .This was a white boy named "Pierre". After Pierre, there were several Toy Poodle girls in the family over the years to .In , Brian and I married. No kids, but much discussion of bringing a large, silver male Standard Poodle into our family came about. Brian has had Brittanys since and always thought a Standard Poodle would be a great upland game bird hunting partner for his Brittanys. It was very impressive. After alot of research and planning, bringing in our first standard poodle Gi Gi in and the many poodles that have followed, the kennel name, Marquis Diamond came to be. This name came to us as a result of many of our dogs that had "Diamond" in their registered names and the favorite cut in the precious stone for us is the MARQUIS cut. It just worked out that the full name, "Marquis Diamond" for our Standard Poodles was the right fit. Our poodles and brittanys have full access to our home, our grounds and all areas on our property. Our puppies are born in our den on the first floor of our home and for the first 4 - 6 weeks are raised with us in our house and fully interact with us in our everyday lives. By 6 weeks of age, they are ready to move to their puppy play area in our basement which is adjacent to our grooming room. Our outside puppy play area that is set up with astro turf is the next step for them by 7 weeks of age, they go to the outside play area, weather permiting, a few hours each day. We live on 10 fenced acres and when there are no visitors expected, our adult dogs are allowed free access on our grounds, house and play areas. Over the last 13 years, bringing us to early , we have many accomplishments with our dogs that can be reviewed by going thru the various pages on our website. We breed, raise and show standard poodles in various colors such as Silver, White, Blue and Black. We have bred pups in Red and on a small scale, Apricot and Brown as well. Many of our performance accomplishments have been with our puppy families as our event commitment with our dogs has been in the conformation venue. We also hunt upland game with our poodles, along side our brittanys. Our standard poodle foundation was established with the Pinafore linage in the colors Silver, White and Black. Pinafore standard poodles is the hard work and commitment of Penny Harney, established in .Penny now resides in McKenzie TN and is still active in the Standard poodle breed and all things that follow. We maintain a close working relationship with Penny and she remains our mentor and biggest contributor for our current line of standard poodles at Marquis Diamond. Our History Standard Poodles and Brittanys are the breeds of dogs we currently share our lives with at Marquis Diamond. Brian is the Brittany fanatic and his first Brittany was "Countess Suzette". Brian received Susie as a gift from his Uncle Jim after Brian lost his beloved Fox Terrier, Trixie, in due to a tragic hunting accident. Susie lived to be 16 years old and was Brian's hunting partner until she was .Our family's first poodle came to us in December of , and we named him Pierre. Pierre lived to be 12 and was followed by many toy poodles over the years. We have many fond memories of Pierre. Pierre was responsible for the passion we feel for the Poodle that has brought us current to our place in life at Marquis Diamond Standards. May are some of my earlier photos with the first love of my life, Pierre. I was 6 years old, and my Mom took these pictures of me and Pierre. The center picture is of Mom, Grandma, Pierre, and Leroy, the cat in .Pierre was a white miniature poodle, and he travelled all over the country with us and lived a long, healthy, and happy life as our first family dog. It was to be, a new pup. Although I wanted a silver Standard Poodle puppy, I fell in love with this blue girl and that continued my passion for the Standard Poodle. Gi Gi has never had puppies, has done some agility and hunt retrieves, but mostly is my shadow and our mascot at Suzy's Pampered Pet's, greeting all those that come. Gi Gi is our "heart" dog and the love of our lives. She is our best friend. Gi Gi is over 12 years old and still going strong. This is Gi Gi at the Hunt Club. Not sure if she is pointing or going to retrieve? Our 1 goal for our offspring is to strive for good health, even disposition and pray for beauty. We do not feel feeding RAW fits into everyones lifestyle but we strongly recommend reading more about it on our RAW food page to learn our process. Their results are also published and copies of the testing with their performance pictures are prepared and placed in their information file that accompanies them to their forever homes. We respect individuals that are seeking a poodle pup for conformation exhibition purposes and at times, we have offered pups for this venue on private treaty; however, that is not our main goal for our offspring in which we place. We remain available to offer referals to other breeders for a purchase of an AKC conformation show prospect. Our puppies are not placed with breeders soley for reproduction purposes. We strongly believe in the Standard Poodle being the Total Dog and on our Working Dog page and Now Showing page, have many examples of the accomplishments of our standard poodles. This breed can be anything one wishes for them and as such, we can say, standard poodles are the "Total Dog". Training and development of your standard poodle puppy are paramount for acheiving that total dog outcome. We do not offer a prospective companion or performance family something in a puppy which we cannot guarentee. We have been active with the standard poodle breed for many years with our companion dogs, performance prospects and most current, as AKC Breeders of Merit. We do not and CANNOT promise our offspring will be anything more than what we describe them to be at the time we offer our pups for placement. Mother nature is a brutal force to contend with and couple that with all that the elements that are present in a breeding program, there are many factors that are to be considered when meeting a group of puppies that are offered for placement. Our years of experience and continuous ongoing training, research, and trying harder each year we breed our standard poodles, we have created a line of dogs that have brought us great pride, some very impressive titles, and many of our puppy families wonderful, lifetime companionship with their Marquis Diamond Standard Poodle. We have personal and professional references upon request. Please take a moment to look over our website pages and read our information. We are both Service Retired from the State of California completing our career paths. We are now home with our dogs each and every day, rarely leaving together at the same time. Our lifes work is now with our passion for the Standard Poodle and all of them that share our home and our lives. We are able to ship our puppies via commercial airlines, we can accomodate private charter, at times we travel to meet pup families on the road and as always, all are welcome in our home. This is our Boy that started it all for us in the American Kennel Club. We had alot of firsts with our Boulie. Boulie finished in 5 weekends as an AKC champ. It was a proud accomplishment for all of us. Boulie is now retired and our resident SR Champ, doing whatever He wants to do. Performance Poodles of Colour. Read more about Passion and her handling team on our Girls page. Read more about Quinn on our Girls page. Read more about our Louie on our Boys page. To Review her Stats, click to our Girls page. Read more about CH Finn on our Boys page. Read more about Laycee and Taffe on our Girls page. Read more about our CH Lovie on our Girls page. Read more about our newest show stopper on our Whats New page. Info that will be available is Registered Health Genetics, 5 generation pedigrees, Co-efficiencies on the breeding, Sibling records , etc. However, I am also very fond of bigger boned and taller standard poodles so I prefer slightly larger versions of the standard poodle. This causes me to walk a thin line as to the refinement that is very much desired in the show ring and the robustness needed in a working dog. I also do not mix some colors in order to retain the desirable characteristics that certain colors possess. For example; blue and silver poodles carry a dilute factor so when bred to a dark poodle such as red, brown, or black the puppies will fade. To achieve my breeding goal I often keep two puppies from a litter, and they do not all work out, so I occasionally have adolescents and young adults for sale. I also average about four litters a year of various colors and parent pairs so will have puppies available at different times of the year. I have a core of standards at home with new dogs coming in directly or by breeding from select other breeders and pick puppies growing to see how they fit into my scheme. I do not expect to have an end point to my breeding program, it is dynamic and evolving and that is one of the key parts of my love for the breed. Guarantees: I sell all my dogs with a health and temperament guarantee. Since I ship most of my dogs I must pick the puppy out for the client and I want to ensure that both are happy. A healthy puppy is the highest priority, but if for some reason the personalities of the dog and owners do not match I will take any dog back within the first 30 days, with full purchase price refunded or a like dog replacement. All shipping costs will be the responsibility of the buyer. After that I will offer a replacement puppy at half your original purchase price for the lifetime of the dog. After 3 years of age there are health conditions that can be brought on by lifestyle, diet, or other factors. The difference between a pet puppy and a show puppy could be as simple as a lower tail set, a longer body or rounder eyes. To most pet owners the difference between the two is not critical. Whether the parents are champions is also a factor, as champion sired puppies do command a higher price. So it is important to know if you are looking for a pet, companion, friend or showpiece. A Poodle for the Family: I believe that the standard poodle is the best all around family dog in the world. I told myself 30 years ago when I was having trouble finding a standard poodle that I could afford that someday I would breed the best standards and make them affordable. I do genetic testing on all of my dogs and offer a lifetime of support for clients. To the contrary I have found for the most part that families who are interested in owning a standard poodle are not the type of people who chain their dog up outside and ignore their well-being. I therefore have increased my prices to help prevent irresponsible breeders from obtaining a poodle from me. Where and How the Puppies are Raised See where we live : I live on a small acreage in central Texas, about 70 miles north west of Austin. My property has several yards attached to the house, garage, barn, and guest house. My dogs and puppies get to run and play in yards all day and come inside at night. The puppies are born and raised inside the house until they are old enough to play in their yards. While outside they have the ability to get out of inclement weather. The puppies have daily contact with cats and horses and occasional contact with the grandchildren. Most are very confident puppies by the time they depart our home. Our first priority, in the process of selecting our standard poodles, is health and temperament. Because of research and selection, we are able to combine these two conformation types to produce a superb, well-rounded Standard Poodle puppy who can be your newest family member. The Poodle Club of America is, of course, made up of humans that are pretty special, amazing and dedicated people. They write the standards for the breed, and the standard has to some extent changed the original look and purpose of the Standard Poodle. Our primary goal is to enrich the very small gene bank of the Standard Poodle pedigrees, which is and will continue to be the best weapon against genetic disorders. The preceding statements may raise some eyebrows and ruffle some feathers. It might even become a topic on Poodle Forum, but we stand firm in our belief and respect those who disagree. Again, because of our selective breeding, we can produce every color available in the breed of Standard Poodles. We have white standard poodles, cream standard poodles, apricot standard poodles, and red standard poodles. We offer the striking colors of jet black standard poodles, blue standard poodles, grey standard poodles, and silver standard poodles. In , after lots of research and prayer, we added the ability to produce the very controversial colors of phantom standard poodles and parti standard poodles. We also have brindle standard poodles and sable standard poodles. We are concentrating on the diversity of these colors by crossing our solid color Gentlemen with our parti and phantom Ladies. In the selection of our color variety of Standard Poodle Ladies we are striving to improve on the health and conformation. These colors are allowed to be registered with the AKC but not allowed in the conformation show ring. Our hope someday is that the non-solid variety of a Standard Poodle will be accepted in the show ring as a color variety just as the Cocker Spaniels and other breeds of color. However, a self-portrait of Rembrandt shows him with his parti colored standard poodle, in ! To see early history pictures and read more about the origin of these poodles of color, please click here. Below are slideshows of our Canine Ladies and along with links to their Pedigrees and any Health Testing. I have worked very close with my mom now for many years. I try very hard to be the manager, but my mom, who is supposed to be retiring in , sometimes has a hard time letting go. My mom and my sister Holley, helped me design and write the website in the beginning. I did all the technical work on the website as well as the routine updates. I was finally able to pass that on to my Aunt Beth when she came on board. I designed and created all of our forms and records we use in our daily work and routines, i. One of the most fascinating things I do is the research on color genetics and then studying the pedigrees for low co-efficiency. I give advice where needed as a nurse and mid-wife. I also spend a great deal of time with our Standard Poodle puppies. I thoroughly enjoy the responsibility of examining and performing our socializing protocol with our Standard Poodle puppies. In addition to taking care of our puppies at a young age, I work with the ones we keep and the ones we buy for our breeding program; on leash training, crate training, basic commands and socialization. I can often be found in the pictures and videos as well. During these times I receive a lot of puppy kisses and I get to smell the sweet scent of puppy breath. I am very involved and busy in the public relations department. I take very serious the responsibility of placing our puppies into the right forever home. This is exceptionally important to all of us and I assure you we all take it very seriously! I also manage our relationships with other reputable Standard Poodle breeders. I appreciate all your phone calls and emails, so daily, many hours are spent fielding your questions about Standard Poodles. All Standard Poodles possess specific qualities, but with varying degrees of these qualities. I make it my mission to get to know each potential new puppy owner and introduce them to puppies who match their lifestyle and personality. Darlene and April and the other ladies here, also meet and greet our families and help in the role of placing puppies in their forever home as well. Her wisdom and talent have proven to be outstanding in the design of our breeding facility and the structure of the entire breeding program. The knowledge she has passed on to me is invaluable. It makes me so conscious of the importance of superior maintenance and routine repair of the grounds. Mom still helps me answer health questions or training issues that her years of experience better qualify her to answer. I am still learning and am sure I will for many more years to come. Most of the website photography, up until was done by my mom with all of us behind the scenes making all kinds of weird noises to get the canine Ladies and Gentlemen as well as puppies to look at the camera and smile. She still is editing and preparing the photos for the website which she enjoys very much. She also did our co-efficiency work-ups and kept our pedigrees up to date with our canine Lady and Gentlemen information. In addition to all of this, Holley handled our litter registrations and all of our AKC paperwork. She was in charge of getting our contracts and guarantees to you. She also helped me reply to emails and phone calls from you about our standard poodle babies. Late in Holley weaned herself from working full time with our Standard Poodles because she was offered a wonderful opportunity to go back to her first love of training and showing American Saddlebreds. She works with an amazing woman who has shown and trained Saddlebreds for years. My mom is very thankful to Mary Ann for giving Holley the chance to do what she loves best and is such a great mentor and friend to Holley. Holley helps train and works the horses and has a great riding lesson program for children. Now I have been able to relinquish those responsibilities to April and my Aunt Beth. Blake is now a wonderful stay at home dad to our son born July 28, .She started out doing the daily poop scooping, cleaning, feeding and watering. She gave vaccines and medications. The list was endless. No one can deal with all of us with a smile every day. Her winning smile and her bubbly personality adds to the comradery among our team. Darlene now helps me manage the kennel and is the official full time groomer of all our Family Affair Standard Poodles. Our Standard Poodle puppies get their first face and tail haircut, ear cleaning and nail cutting from Darlene. Each of our adult Standard Poodles get groomed every 8 to 10 weeks, so the grooming is a never-ending cycle. Then moms and puppies are let out into their yards and exercise runs to potty and play all day. We are so blessed to have Darlene. She is pictured below with her beloved Raven. Although her first canine love is her Miniature Dachshunds, she is as dedicated to our Standard Poodle Ladies and Gentlemen and our Standard Poodle puppies as we are. Darlene is loved and appreciated by all of us, and enjoys spending time with us even on her days off. I think we can make it happen! She was very responsible and dedicated at that young age. When she wanted to join our team again at the age of 25, we were very pleased. She came back to us on a part time basis in early .She was reliable and observant when examining and observing puppies and adults. We quickly realized she was also a great asset in the office and computer department as well. In just a few months, she started full time and then took over a lot of the task Darlene had been responsible for over the years. Erica begins her day with a quick hands-on inspection of all the babies. She gives medication, routine wormers and vaccines. Erica weighs and individually identifies each puppy with different colors of fingernail polish the day they are born. For three weeks all our Standard Poodle puppies are weighed every day. All of that attention to babies must have affected her, because in early , Erica gave birth to a beautiful baby girl that looks like a china doll. Her name is Kaelyn. We are looking forward to working with Erica for many years to come and watching Kaelyn grow up.

Similar services:

dream meaning litter of golden retriever puppies - How does it feel to be a new puppy parent? You must be chuffed. Take a look at these first few articles. All the ingredients you need for a happy home. But for now, beside your bed is the best place for your puppy to sleep — it will help them feel safe. Puppies like their crates rather cave-like; we suggest covering it with a blanket to block out light, but keep the front open so that they can see outwards. Make sure to make it snug inside with something like a vet bed or a blanket, or why not take it up a notch with a heat pad or hot water bottle to recreate the feeling of their mother. Nothing feels more comforting than that. Before you head to bed, take your puppy out for one last round of loo-going. Set your bedtime at a later time too — midnight sounds about right. Come back calmly, and place your puppy in the crate and turn out the light. Stuff you should know about Sleep Training your Labrador Your puppy will wake up several times in the night and will need the bathroom at least once! Be prepared for not-so-deep sleeps and tired mornings — just for the first few weeks. Having them sleep next to you is only temporary. Consistency is key! As for you, full nights of sleep will start getting closer and closer. Alone Training How can I teach my Labrador puppy to be ok on their own? Start by feeding your puppy in their crate during meal times. If they seem worried by you leaving, stay in view, and just pop right outside their confinement area. Keep it short and sweet: No need to stay away for long, 60 seconds tops will do for now. Repeat: Do this at least once a day to make progress go steady and smoothly. Socialization Exercises To Do this week Letting your Labrador puppy explore the yard Besides the gnomes and questionable yard furniture you may have, letting your puppy explore your own yard is a great and safe way to start showing them the sounds, lights and wonders of the outside world. Exploring different surfaces exercise Make sure that the surfaces you use are safe — nothing too crazy just yet. Gather surfaces such as An oven tray with a small layer of water A piece of astro turf A carpet tile A large piece of tin foil, cardboard or something crinkly PRO TIP: Set up for this exercise in the room your puppy spends most of their time in — it will help them to feel safe and confident. Pop the surfaces out safely on the floor and allow your puppy to investigate them. Nobody has ever enjoyed walking on those. Remember to be patient! Lucky for you — teaching them their name is easy peasy. Say their name in a happy jolly tone and reward with a treat. Repeat five times, 5 and take a break. Practice this 2 or 3 times a day so they get the hang of it. Teach your puppy to sit Teaching your puppy how to sit is a popular one. The first two are far more common though. Keep using this word when they do the right thing, and then follow it up with a food reward. In puppy logic, stinky means yummy. How to do it Start at home; where there are no distractions. Just make sure to shut off Gogglebox in the background. Recall — How to teach our Labrador puppy to come back when called Your puppy already knows their name at this point, so this should be a walk in the park. How to do it Treats and a cheerful voice will be what works here. Do these exercises before meal times so your puppy is more motivated. Practice this 5 times a day and in 3 different places in your house and yard to get them used to coming to you in all settings. How to do it Show your puppy that you have their favorite toy, and start to get them excited about it. When they show interest, throw it a little bit away from you. They will likely follow it and pick it up. If they do, encourage them back to you with your voice, so remember to sound happy! Swap the toy for a treat or another toy and do the process again. Repeat this about 5 times. Instead create more distance and excitement sounds to get them to come to you — spaniels like to show off, so they will likely want to parade what they have! Always swap the toy for something when they have it, this could be a treat or another toy. Resource guarding occurs when we force puppies to give up items or snatch things out of their mouths. For breeds like Labradors who are designed to want to hold things in their mouths, this is pretty important! Resource guarding is when a dog protects a resource from being taken by someone else — dog or human. For some reason, there is a solid list of things puppies find irresistible: Socks. Print Potty train your puppy quickly Housebreaking is one of the least desirable tasks when adding a new puppy to your family. It is never fun but consider it a necessary task. You will never regret having a dog that knows your home is not a bathroom. When to start housebreaking Housebreaking should begin the day you bring your puppy home from the breeder. It is important to establish quickly that there is a right and wrong place for your puppy to go potty. How long does it take to house train a lab puppy? I wish I could give a definitive answer for this, but the truth is that every puppy is different. Most puppies can be completely house broke by the time they are months. But assume there will be a lot of ups and downs through the process. Some puppies learn very quickly and rarely have an accident. Others take more time to make the connection. Here are some things you can do to help the process go smoothly. Have the right attitude! Keep your attitude in check to help this process go quickly and smoothly. Have patience! As already stated, potty training can take some time. It may happen, but it is unlikely. Instead, plan for a long haul and then you will be more patient and understanding when mishaps happen. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Step 1: Establish a place for your puppy to go potty To get started housebreaking your puppy, you must first establish a place where it is okay for your puppy to do his business. Find a place outside that is not too far from your home, but an area where you are not worried about killing the grass or trampling plants that are important to you. Consider this carefully, because once your puppy starts going potty in this area it will be exceedingly difficult to move or change the area. Once the scent is there, it is natural for dogs to continue going potty in the same area over and over. Do I have to potty train outside? In some areas of the country, winters can be very cold. Some new puppy owners wonder if it is too cold for their Labrador puppy to go outside to potty train during these times. The answer is no. Most Labs can easily be outside for a few minutes even during the coldest nights to go potty. A pee pad is a disposable, leak proof pad that is scented to attract your dog and encourage going potty on them. We highly discourage using pee pads because in the long run it is confusing to your dog. If you spend time teaching your puppy to NOT go potty inside your home and then flip-flop and begin letting them go inside your home on a pee pad, your dog will be confused. Besides, eventually you must retrain them to going outside, so the best policy is to never start letting inside be an option. Step 2: Establish a routine and schedule for your puppy Establishing a routine is the single most important step for housebreaking. The more consistent you are, the faster your puppy will learn to go outside for potty. This time will increase rapidly over the next few weeks, but that first week is going to take a lot of time and energy on your part to consistently let your puppy out on a schedule. To make being consistent easier, consider this: Set a timer When housebreaking puppies, we find that setting a timer is helpful. An hour flies by and you hardly realize it. For the first few days at least, set a timer and let your puppy out hourly, especially if your puppy is not in a crate. We will discuss that more in a bit. Timing is everything There are other times when you need to let your puppy outside. Immediately after eating or drinking your puppy should go outside. Eating and drinking will trigger a need to go potty, so to avoid accidents, take your puppy out every time they eat or drink. And if they drink a lot of water, you may have to take them out several times before they are back on schedule. Anything you can do to make going potty a routine will help your dog learn and associate that going outside is where I need to go to go potty. Use a command I know this sounds crazy but using a command can help your dog form an association between the command and going potty. At first this is meaningless to the puppy. And you cannot discipline your puppy for a potty accident in the house that you never saw happen. The solution for this is never let your puppy go unsupervised. This can be exhausting, that is why we suggest using a crate to help. The stern words must be said during the accident or immediately after to have any effect. Using a crate to house train your puppy First, while your puppy may not love his crate right away, if properly introduced and used consistently, Labs usually come to love their crates. As den animals, dogs will view their crate as a den where they can go to sleep or get away from the business of the home. Learn more about crate training your Labrador puppy here. When using a crate to housetrain your puppy, you first want to make sure that you have a very small crate. One that is just a little bigger than your puppy. This is particularly important because you do not want your puppy to be able to move around much in the crate. If they can move around, they can and often will go potty in the crate. So, start with a very small crate and get bigger crates as the puppy grows. Whatever you choose to use to block off the larger area, make sure that it is not something your puppy can chew on or ingest. You will still need to find a way to gradually increase the area that the puppy has access to, so I just find the multiple crate solution easier. You should still set a timer and take your puppy out on a regular basis, and you will want to schedule some time each day for the puppy to run around the house and play while supervised. Step 4: Using praise to speed the house breaking process You can help your puppy more quickly understand that going potty outside is the right thing to do by giving your puppy well-timed praise. But the praise must be well-timed. You should give the praise while your puppy is going potty outside or immediately after. Timing is very important! Lots of people get upset when the dog goes inside but fail to praise when the dog does the right thing. Not all dogs are the same. Some puppies will whine just before they go potty in the house, or whine at the door when they need to go. Some will hide somewhere you cannot see them and do their business there. Still others may scratch at the door. How long can a puppy hold it overnight? With young puppies, weeks old, you will need to get up several times a night to let them out. It can be helpful to limit the amount of water your puppy has access to close to bedtime. We usually aim for every 3 hours and then steadily increase the time as they get older. But each puppy is different. Final thoughts on how to house train your Labrador puppy Remember that housebreaking is a process. It rarely follows a straight line and more often there will periods of success and occasional mishaps. Stick with it and before long your puppy will understand that going potty in the house is not okay. Until next time, happy retrieving. How to housebreak your Labrador puppy. Umbilical cord training Throughout the rest of this guide I will be referring to each of these 4 methods and when you should or could be using them. Once used to using the paper or the pads, you slowly cut the area covered until they reliably use just a couple of sheets and never miss. You then slowly move the paper toward the outside where another set is placed and you begin to encourage your puppy to go outside only, before completely removing the papers inside. At this point they will have made the transition. A top tip when paper training is when you clean away soiled paper, you should hold one piece back and place it as a middle layer of the new papers. Puppy pads have a scent that attracts a puppy, paper does not. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 3. This is confusing and will make the learning process take longer. Best suited to: Either people who are going to have an indoor bathroom spot long-term, or people who will not use a crate for training yet cannot commit to constantly supervising their puppy when inside the home. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, definitely a 5. But it does result in more mistakes from your puppy until later in life. Equipment needed: Nothing but stacks of old newspapers! A very cost-effective method. Description: The method takes advantage of the fact dogs have a natural instinct not to soil the area where they eat and sleep. Key to this is making the crate just large enough to stand in, turn around easily and lay down stretched out but no bigger. The rest of the time you watch them and regularly take them outside to potty to teach them good habits. Best suited to: Everybody! This is because you will have to crate train your puppy before you can use a crate for house training which does take time and effort. Click here for my free and detailed guide to crate training your puppy. Equipment needed: A suitable crate. I have a guide to help you select the right size and type that you can read by clicking here. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I tentatively give it a 3. It could actually score higher or lower depending on how committed you are and how successful at supervising your puppy you are. Best suited to: People who are against any kind of confinement and can stay at home to watch their puppy all day every day. Mostly people who work from home and the retired. But this method also forms a part of every house training plan, whether you use other methods alongside or not. This is because when a puppy is free inside a home, they MUST be closely supervised to prevent any mistakes. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 2. It scores low as it requires a lot of input from you as the owner. It is quite draining never being able to take your eye of your puppy. Equipment needed: None. Not a crate, newspapers, puppy pads or anything. The cheapest of all the methods…unless you put a price on your time. But it is highly effective. Description: This technique calls for you to tether your puppy to you by leash and have them follow you wherever you go when inside your home. You will notice and be able to intervene and correct every possible mistake, taking them outside every time they need to relieve themselves. Used correctly, the opportunity for your puppy to make mistakes is completely removed so every single time they need to visit their bathroom spot is a training opportunity you will take advantage of and no mistake goes uncorrected. Best suited to: People who spend all their time at home with their puppy and would also enjoy literally being tied to their pup all day. Further Info: for a detailed discussion of this technique, the benefits, downside, and many more tips, please see my article: Umbilical Cord House Training: What is It? How Does It Work? A Mix Of 3 Methods I use and recommend a mixture of crate training, constant supervision and paper training. I use constant supervision extensively because when a puppy is outside of the crate you have to watch them diligently to avoid puppy mistakes. Admittedly this is somewhat going against my advice because I always recommend to avoid paper training if possible. It encourages or allows your puppy to toilet inside the home, before then training them not to do so. This is confusing to your puppy and harmful to our house training efforts. But even though I recommend against it, using paper training ever so occasionally as a fall back plan works well for me. Most dogs love being outside and will use any excuse to get out there and stay there. You do this by using a cue word and walking them on leash to their potty spot, not allowing them to do anything else and if they do not potty, taking them back inside and trying again in a few minutes. Because a full bladder or bowel is uncomfortable, dogs are happy to relieve themselves, but some may try to hold it if they think they can get to stay outside and sniff around a while. If people use different words, your dog will get confused. This will slowly teach them the command. And this is fine for the first couple of weeks while they have no bladder control and will perform their business very quickly. And some dogs even learn to actively hold their bladder just so they can stay outside to explore for longer. Before you can do this you need to first get your puppy used to wearing a collar and leash. Have You Got Everything Prepared? A Check-list Before You Start Like everything in life, house training runs smoother if you have everything ready before you start, hopefully before you even bring your puppy home. Have you: Decided on and marked out a suitable bathroom spot? Chosen and purchased a suitable high-quality nutritious food? Figured out the times of day you will feed your puppy? Got a collar and leash? Put in place a leash training plan? Bought a suitable crate and set it up in a suitable place? Bought bedding for the crate? Bought chew toys to occupy your puppy in the crate? Decided on the commands you will use if any? Purchased either baby gates, a pet barrier or an exercise pen for longer term confinement? Sourced stacks of newspapers or puppy pads to use in the long-term confinement area? Bought some small but highly tasty training treats to use as a reward? Bought specialized pet stain removing and odor neutralizing cleaning products? Bought a UV light to find hidden spots of urine that must be removed to prevent repeat accidents? Sat and discussed with every member of your household your finalized plans so everybody has the same info? Successful House Training Is All About Schedules And Routine Dogs thrive when living to schedules and routine, doing best when they have set times for eating, going to toilet, exercise, training and play. But because the passage of food through their digestive system stays roughly the same, if you feed your puppy at the same times every day they will need to defecate at roughly the same times every day. This results in fewer mistakes, more opportunities to praise your puppy for going in the right place and so speeds up their learning. Depending on their age a puppy will need to poop 3 to 6 times a day, and wee many more times than that. Can these times be predicted? Mostly they can. When a puppy needs to potty depends on when they last ate, drank and their recent activities. Mostly they need to go: First thing in the morning The instant they wake up from a nap at any time of the day Just before going to bed Within a few minutes of eating or drinking Immediately after a play session Immediately after any excitement But a puppy also needs to go many times per day regardless of recent activities, so you should also take your puppy to their bathroom spot on a consistent schedule such as the following: At 8 weeks old — every 30 mins. At 10 weeks old — every 45 mins. At 12 weeks old — every 1 to 1. At 16 weeks old — every 2 hours. At 20 weeks old — every 3 hours. Some will need to wee within 2 minutes of drinking, others after 20 minutes. Some will need a bathroom break within 2 minutes of waking, others 15 minutes later. You have to determine your puppies own natural tendencies and create a schedule to suit. To achieve this, you need to follow this 5 step process: Feed them to a strict schedule. Decide on exercise, play and training times. Develop a schedule including feeding, exercise, play, training and all scheduled potty times. Use the information gathered in your diary to learn from any mistakes and adjust your schedule for the following week. The more you can stick to schedules and routines, the smoother and faster the process will be. But you can stray from the path when necessary and still find success, it will just take a little longer. You should feed your puppy 3 times a day when 12 to 26 weeks old. From 26 weeks old and onwards, feed your puppy just two times a day For 2 meals a day you need to space them out 8 to 12 hours apart. What works for me is shortly after I get up at and when we have our evening meal between PM and PM. Availability Of Water: You should make sure fresh water is always available but because drinking too much or too little can be a sign of health problems, you do need to monitor their water intake. Physical activity often leads to a puppy needing to potty very soon after. So to encourage predictable potty times for your puppy, you want to schedule their exercise and play. Deciding when to exercise, train and play with your puppy is entirely up to you. You should fit it around your lifestyle and commitments, but try to make it the same times each day if you can. Enter all the following details into a single column in an excel spreadsheet, or write them down as a day schedule with a pen and paper: When you wake and add an instant bathroom break before you do ANYTHING for yourself! Enter the times you will play with, train and exercise your puppy. Enter a scheduled visit to the bathroom spot after each of the activities listed in points 1 to 3. Add scheduled bathroom visits after any length of time longer than your puppy should be expected to hold it according to their age. Write in scheduled sleeps for your puppy, place them in the crate or confinement area. After writing down this schedule, tick off each task as you go through the day with your puppy. This way you will always know what needs to be done and when, and there will be no confusion about whether someone else in the house fed, exercised or took the puppy to the loo. I discuss this further in step 5 below. You should be able to pick up on any patterns and adjust your own behavior to avoid mistakes in future. Was puppy left alone and peed in the living room while you made breakfast? Puppy should never be left alone unsupervised, learn from this mistake. Or maybe puppy peed in the crate after an hour? Learn from this mistake. Well done for watching them closely enough. So increase the frequency. Therefore you should stretch out the time between visits by 10 to 15 minutes for the following day. This is how you find out. And Now House Training is So Much Easier By writing out the schedule as in step 3, you should never forget to feed, train or take your puppy to potty. And by using the schedule as a diary as in step 5, you get feedback on how you and your puppy are performing, and are armed with the necessary info to make changes to your schedule over time. You, your puppy and their needs all stay in sync and house training becomes that much easier. Just make a spreadsheet in excel and print it out, or simply buy some lined paper. Keep it somewhere you can always see and know where it is, alongside a pen or pencil and write entries in it as you watch your puppy throughout the day. After this, continuing with a diary every day is the best advice, although keeping one for 3 consecutive days each week will be sufficient for you to pick up on any changes as they mature. Once your puppy is 5 to 6 months old, they will have sufficient bladder control and experience to make a schedule and diary unnecessary. Just make sure they get access to the outside at least once every 3 hours and all will be fine. Extending The Time Between Toilet Breaks I discussed earlier how a puppy will need regular visits to their bathroom spot, something like every 30 minutes at 8 weeks old, every 45 minutes at 10 weeks old and so on. But every puppy is different and their progress in having longer time between needed toilet breaks will vary too. You do this because as a puppy grows, the size of their bowel and bladder increases, so they will be able to hold more for longer and you want to take advantage of this. This is also teaching them necessary bladder and bowel control. Use your cue word before you take them: By using your chosen cue word every time before you take them to potty, your puppy will learn what the trip is about and what they must do. This eventually leads to faster results as they know what is expected of them. Lead your puppy to the bathroom spot on leash: This gives you the ability to keep your puppy at the bathroom spot and prevent them wandering off, getting distracted and forgetting what they are there for. Make sure you stay with them at their bathroom spot: If you have them on leash, then of course you will be. When they start to go, say your chosen cue word in a soft warm voice. Mix up the reward between play, time off leash and a food reward to keep them guessing, but keep the food rewards to a minimum as what goes in must come out and random feeding promotes random elimination times! Many people pop out, stand for 1 minute and then come back in. Some people recommend to stay out there for 10, 15, 20 minutes, whatever it takes until they go, then praise profusely when they do. I recommend you give them 3 to 5 minutes, saying your cue word every 30 seconds or so but otherwise standing silently still just holding their leash so they cannot wander off. Take them back to their bathroom spot in 10 minutes or so. If using a crate for house training: Pop them back in the crate and leave them for 10 minutes. Then take them back to their bathroom spot. Take them to their bathroom spot after 10 minutes. If not, take them away from their bathroom spot and watch them for 10 minutes before returning them to their bathroom spot. And if crate training, do not leave them in the crate too long else they may be forced to soil in there. Prevent this at all costs. Rinse and repeat the visits to and fro like this until they do potty, then follow the next sections advice. What You Should Do Between Scheduled Bathroom Breaks Between scheduled bathroom visits you should do two things: Allow some supervised free time in your home, and use your chosen house training method. By free time I mean time outside of their crate, or off leash, or out of their confinement area. Time free to roam, explore and live life. When 10 weeks old they may need to toilet every 30 minutes, so they only get 5 to 10 minutes free time. When 12 weeks old, they may need to toilet every hour so they can get 35 to 40 minutes free time. You allow this free time because you are of course working toward a time when they will always be free and trusted unsupervised. To get there they need the experience, to get used to being free in your home and begin seeing it as a place they need to keep clean. They also need social interaction and life experiences. But what are the signs a puppy is about to potty? Heading toward, barking at or scratching the door to the outside. The minute you see any of these signs you should take your puppy to their bathroom spot immediately. There may well be some false alarms, but better safe than sorry. Carefully watch them and you should soon notice what body language means a wee or a poop is imminent. There will be recognizable signs. We do this because the time is fast approaching when mistakes are most likely to be made. If using constant supervision: Carry on as you are. Then at their scheduled potty time, attach a leash and lead them to their bathroom spot. If using a crate for house training: Encourage your puppy into their crate and close the door, leaving them there until their scheduled potty time and then release them, instantly attaching a leash and leading them to their bathroom spot. If using umbilical cord training: Attach a leash and tether your puppy to you, ready to react if they make moves to eliminate. Take them to their bathroom spot at the scheduled time. If paper training: Take your puppy to their confinement area where their papered bathroom spot is and supervise them, ready to intervene if they make moves to potty away from the paper. Not good when you need to be there to encourage them for doing it in the right place. If they do, you can pick them up and carry them, or take them by the collar and gently lead them to their bathroom spot, then encourage them to finish where they should. But to me this seems foolish. Instead of a little pile or puddle, you then have a long line of wee or poop from where you caught them all the way to the bathroom spot that you then have to deep clean instead. Then think how they were able to make such a mistake and tweak your plans so it cannot happen again. But any corrections or punishment now will be futile. House Training For Full Time Workers This advice applies not just to full-time workers , but also if you must occasionally leave your puppy home alone for a few hours. Most importantly, follow all the advice in this guide so far for the times that you are home. Supervise them, correct any mistakes, set feeding and elimination schedules and everything else I have advised. First of all, if like me you use a crate, you simply cannot leave your puppy in the crate for many hours. This is very unfair on your puppy and it will destroy the crates power as a house training tool if they lose the instinct to keep it clean. Secondly, please do your best to enlist the help of a family member, friend, neighbor or hire a dog walker to periodically pop in to visit your puppy, take them to their bathroom spot, give them some social interaction and so on. But I also freely admit to using paper training myself occasionally, for the unavoidable times I have to leave my puppy home alone for a few hours. If you have to leave your puppy home alone for any reason, usually because you work, then paper training in your absence is the only thing you can do. You then have two options available to you: Buy and use an exercise pen, or confine your puppy to a single, puppy-proofed room. As they get used to pottying on paper, reduce the area covered one sheet at a time until just a small area remains covered. Once you know your puppy can hold their bladder for longer than they have to be left alone, remove the paper altogether. By 16 to 20 weeks, they should be able to last the 3 or 4 hours max they will be left alone and somebody comes to exercise them and allow a bathroom break. Between 8 and 12 weeks when weeing seems spontaneous , my puppy spends a fair bit of time in there and I paper train them to use puppy pads. Our kitchen and dining room was separated by an arch where a door used to be, with tiled flooring, making it ideal. I used a baby gate across the arch between the kitchen and dining room, and initially covered the dining area with paper, over time reducing it to just two sheets with the puppy pad holder on top. The dining area is completely empty, with no furniture, nothing in there. Skirting boards, the corners of furniture items, anything within reach is a potential target for teeth and claws. My girlfriend works from home, we crate trained and we had no problem finding house sitters in an evening if we needed one, so we all but had things covered. But this is something you need to be mindful of. Whatever the reason, there just WILL be times you cannot supervise your puppy. The essence of house training is to prevent mistakes and praise your puppy heavily when they potty in the right place. If you cannot watch your puppy, the chances of them making a mistake go through the roof. So even if you choose to use a constant supervision method exclusively, you will still need to confine your puppy sometimes to a paper covered area just in case. I mean literally none at all. One minute they are trotting along, the next they are leaking. No warning signs for you, not even any warning signs for them. I recommend setting up an exercise pen with the entire area papered, or do as I do and confine them to a room with the entire area papered. Use this time to paper train them, to get them used to weeing on paper and gradually reduce the area because you will use this method if you ever have to leave them home alone during the next 4 or 5 months. They will sniff, circle and so on as I mentioned before. At this point you can now move on to using your chosen house training method. Start encouraging them to potty in the right place from the minute you get them home. So the good news is, even at 8 weeks they will be able to last 4 or so hours and you will only need to wake once during the night. Also, make sure to take them to their bathroom spot right before you go to bed so they can empty themselves. Then set an alarm for 4 hours after their bed time when you must get up and take them to their bathroom spot. No excuses, you simply must do this. If you find your puppy has soiled in this time, you should set the alarm for half an hour earlier the next night 3. After a few days of not having a night-time accident, set your alarm for 15 minutes later and increase the time by 15 minutes for each successful night they do not have an accident. If you find they make a mistake one night before you wake, set the alarm back half an hour, make sure they stay dry a few days and then increase 15 minutes nightly again. And by using this schedule, you strike a good balance between a couple of inevitable accidents while stretching out the time at a good pace to lasting a full night. If they soil their crate more than once in any given week, you may have to progress slower add 15 minutes every 2 or 3 days , or perhaps sleep them in a papered exercise pen or their confinement room. Maintaining their instinct to keep the crate clean is of utmost importance. What To Do At The Bathroom Spot At Night When you take them out at night, say your chosen cue word, take them straight to their bathroom spot, praise them gently when they finish their business but do not reward them with anything else. The last thing you want is to teach your puppy that during the night is a time for play or food treats! This will come back to haunt you in a big way and result in noisy sleepless nights. You want your puppy to learn that night-time is for sleeping and for nothing else. Do nothing else. Some will be able to last the whole night without a potty break at 10 weeks rarely , and some may not be able to at 15 weeks also rarely. But certainly by 16 weeks old your puppy will be able to last a 7 hour night without needing to potty if you do not feed them for 3 hours or provide water for 2 hours before bed time and allow them to empty themselves right before you lay down for the night. No Progress? If you are feeding, exercising, training and playing with your puppy to a schedule, and when you look at your diary there seems to be no pattern to the times they need to potty, you should seek the advice of your vet. Common ailments such as gastroenteritis, urinary tract infection and health issues affecting internal organs and the genitalia can lead to a dog needing to potty much more frequently, often leading to eliminating in the house. Again, seek the advice of your family vet. You cannot successfully house train a puppy who is ill because their bodily functions will be too unpredictable. But 6 to 7 months is the ball park figure to aim for. A single mistake in the home can cause a major setback. A puppy may not make a mistake for 2 weeks, then you give them too much freedom, they make a mistake and all of a sudden they are regularly trying to potty in the home again. Also, some puppies just seem to forget everything for a few days now and then while growing up, even after being perfect for a couple of weeks. Just stick to your plan and they WILL eventually get it. Conclusion With house training, the fewer mistakes you allow your puppy to make and the more they are rewarded for doing the right thing, the quicker they will learn and the faster you will find success. Because of this, the more effort you put in and the more time you spend with your puppy at the beginning — supervising to correct mistakes and taking them to their bathroom spot many times each day — the better. But there are many other things you can do to help yourself and your puppy to find success. This guide has provided you with all the theory, strategies, tips and tricks you will ever need to successfully house train your puppy as quickly and efficiently as possible, with the fewest mistakes along the way. Please see the entire series linked to below:. Labrador house training routines. We want them to learn to wait until they are outdoors before emptying their bladder or bowels. It is about maturity too. We need to understand that tiny puppies have immature bodies and are not physically capable of waiting very long. On your side There are two factors on your side in the potty training process. When it comes to bladder control, fortunately your puppy improves with every day that passes, so this factor does not work against you forever. The same applies to the fact that the puppy has been removed from his nest, he will soon learn to accept his new nest. The principles of puppy potty training The puppy is learning the principle of extending the nest area, which he keeps clean instinctively, to include your entire home. Punishment is counter-productive in this process as it teaches the puppy to avoid emptying himself in your presence. Rewards are helpful, but given the right routine, a puppy will naturally learn to be clean without them. The secret to successful house training lies in selecting targets that the puppy can achieve. If your puppy sometimes needs to wee every 15 minutes whilst he is awake and active, you will have to take him outside every 15 minutes. Restricted access Start small applies here too. Allow your puppy access only to a small part of your home. Increase the area he has access to, only when he is capable of keeping the current area clean. Just because he can. And because the sensation of a filling bladder is a new one. Your job is to teach him to wait a little longer. You do this by confining him for a short time, every time his bladder fills. You can confine him in his nest within a crate , or in your arms. He will be reluctant to wee in either location. If he wets himself, you have waited too long! It takes two You need to go outside with your puppy, and stay out there with him, each time he needs to wee. A tiny puppy is unlikely to empty himself on his own. This especially applies in cold or wet weather. Routines Matter When House Training a Labrador Retriever Based around these practical requirements you can create your own house training routine. For a puppy that needs to wee every half an hour, it will go something like this Take puppy outside to the toilet area and wait with him until he empties himself Bring him indoors and allow him free access to your kitchen for fifteen to twenty minutes Crate or cuddle the puppy until it is thirty minute since his last wee Take the puppy back out to the toilet area If at any time the puppy does not empty himself then confine him for another ten minutes and try again. As soon as he is regularly not needing to wee after thirty minutes you can extend the duration of free access to your kitchen. Provided you stick to these principles and strategies, the house training process, though quite intense for a short while, will pass smoothly. Supervise Your Puppy Your second job is to supervise or contain your puppy when his bladder is filling up. You can do this by crating him for a few minutes, or by cuddling him in your arms. I recommend the cuddle option for the first few days, that way you can introduce the crate gradually once he has settled into his new home. Either spend your first day together in the yard getting a feel for how frequently they pee. As you can see, there is some guesswork involved in house training a puppy, but not too much. The secrets of successful outdoor toilet trips Not wanting to pee outside is a common toilet training puppy problem and one we look at in more detail in this article. Keeping your puppy company is the key. You need to go outside with your puppy and wait there with him until he has done a wee. This may take longer than you would like, and you probably have better things to do than stand in your yard while your puppy chases butterflies or plays with your shoe laces. But stay outside you must, until he has done that wee. Coming Indoors Early If you must come indoors before your puppy has relieved himself, you need to supervise him very closely. Hold him in your arms — or put him in a small crate for a few minutes — before going back out to try again. It is a new puppy problem, and it will pass. And if you teach your puppy to pee on command, it will pass even quicker! Rewarding success If you put plenty of effort in, and take your puppy out a great deal in those first few days, he will quickly learn that the place you have allocated to him for potty purposes is the place to pee. You can praise him and give him a little treat for doing so. Have your treat on hand keep them next to your poop bags so you remember to grab both on the way out , and deliver it right after your puppy has completed their business. Rewarding his successes and ignoring his accidents is the quickest way of successfully communicating what you want, and quickly potty training your puppy. Stage 2 — Learning self control During stage 2 your puppy begins to develop some self control. This means he can wait a few minutes before emptying himself when his bladder starts to feel full. Keep an eye on your puppy for the tell tale signs that he needs to use the toilet: whimpering, whining or barking sniffing about, especially sniffing in circles! Using Your Crate If your puppy is now used to his crate, you can start using it stretch out the gaps between toilet trips. Accidents during stage 2 At some point during stage 2, many puppies will be able to last an hour or so between wees. This is when puppy parents often relax their vigilance, and their puppies start having accidents in the house again. Simply go back to shorter gaps between trips to the yard for a few days. Then start to space out those trips again, but more gradually this time. Stage 3 — Extending the clean zone This is where all your hard work starts to really pay off. Once your puppy is confidently and consistently toileting outdoors, and you can further stretch out the gaps between toilet breaks, and start to introduce your puppy to the rest of your home. Take it slowly, and if accidents occur, to go back to shorter gaps between trips outdoors for a few days. Bear in mind that your puppy may be used to peeing in the yard and not in the kitchen by now, but they might not automatically understand which rule applies to the lounge. Method 2: How to potty train a puppy indoors This section has a lot in common with how to potty train a puppy when you work. So follow method 2 if you need to know how to potty train a puppy in an apartment as well. And that means using pads. How to potty train a puppy on pads The simplest way to do this is to restrict the puppy to a smallish room with washable floors. Cover the floor with puppy pads to begin with, with their bed in one corner. How do you train a puppy to pee on a pad? With this arrangement in place, as long as your puppy leaves his bed to pee which his mom will have encouraged him to do , he will pee onto the pads. So over the next few days, reduce the area of the floor that is covered with puppy pads by half. You should find he begins to make an effort to pee and poop on the part of the floor that is covered — but it needs to be a sizeable part to get this good habit established. How to potty train a puppy fast using pads — reducing the toilet area By the end of the first week, you can begin to reduce the part of the floor that is covered with puppy pads right down to a small area, preferably near the back door. It is usually best to do this when you have some time booked off work — or during a long weekend when the weather is fine. But if you choose to crate train your puppy LINK alongside potty training him, the crate can be a useful aid for potty training too. Once your puppy thinks of the crate as their bed, they will be reluctant to soil in it. You Still Need To Watch Your Puppy Always watch puppies closely in their crate during potty training, and whisk them out to the right spot at the first sign they might need to relieve themselves. You can find out a lot more about crate training and the role it plays in rapid house training on this page. As well opportunities to use the toilet, Labrador puppies need company and socialisation while they are small. So, if you are going to go back to work you need to arrange someone to look after him, or to come in at intervals throughout the day to play with him and take him out. Here are some articles which will be of interest if you are thinking of getting a puppy and work full time:.