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Questions about Boxer puppies for sale in Chicago IL? We have answers. How much are Boxer puppies for sale in Chicago IL? One of the reasons for this is that individual Chicago Boxer breeders will choose their price based on their reputation for producing quality pups. The coat and eye color of each pup also makes a difference, as does their pedigree. Am I limited to choosing pups from Boxer breeders in Chicago? Many of the partners in our network are skilled at helping to organize transportation for your new pup. How do you screen breeders with Boxer puppies in Chicago? Our extremely high standards mean that we will only work with the best businesses and companies who produce the best Boxer puppies for sale Chicago. These pups are incredibly well looked after. All of these have to sign our Breeder Pledge which covers all aspects of canine care. How is Uptown Puppies different? When you start searching online for Chicago Boxers for sale, it can be hard to tell the difference between an honest business and a scam. Rather than pay attention to the marketing budget of low-quality breeders, we focus on the quality of each business. What is a puppy mill, exactly? Puppy mills prioritise profit to the detriment of animal welfare. Puppies and mother dogs are kept in awful conditions and have little to no quality of life. While these pups may seem like a bargain, the truth is they can often suffer from debilitating health and behavioral issues. More often than not, this leads to expensive veterinary bills. Can I buy a Boxer for sale in Chicago now? To start your search simply scroll through our listings of available pups and connect with the breeders or businesses with puppies that catch your eye. What country is the Boxer from? The Boxer breed hails from 19th Century Germany, where they were prized as both hunting and guarding dogs. Their blend of intelligence, bravery, and loyalty also made them the perfect dog for military and police work. What can I expect from a Boxer? Boxers are affectionate and loving with their families, but can easily switch into protector and defender mode if they feel their families are being threatened. Their active natures make them perfect for energetic families. How big are Boxers? A Chicago Boxer for sale will mature to be a sizable dog. Once mature, a male Boxer Chicago can stand up to 25 inches tall and weigh up to 80 pounds. Females will be slightly smaller, at .Their enthusiastic and bouncy nature also means you need to provide them with plenty of space! Are Boxers ebay to train? Training sessions with a Boxer for sale Chicago are guaranteed to be a lot of fun! Boxers love to please their owners so make enthusiastic and willing training partners. Puppy Breeds If you have a liking for a fearless, energetic yet devoted pet then the boxer breed of dogs should form your list of preferred choices. As the 9th most recognized and popular dog breed in the world, whether the brindle fur colored, white or fawn, a boxer is a delight to look at and a fabulous companion around. Discover more about our Boxer puppies for sale below! History From ancient Germany precisely around the 19th century had the now extinct mastiff breed Bullenbeisser and bulldogs brought in from England. At the time of their arrival, they served as hunting dogs for bears, deer, and other ferocious beasts, it would capture the prey with the help of its awesome teeth and detain it until the hunter arrives. And in the first boxer standard club was launched with a comprehensive document that is still in use today. Shortly after, the breed made its way into other European countries and got into the U. S in the late 19th century with the American Kennel Club taking registration of its first boxer around .During the first world war, boxers played the role of a military dog as a pack-carrier, a guard dog, and an attack dog, later they were taken home by the soldiers and got introduced into the domestic world as a show dog, best companion, and a reliable guard. Temperament One with so much life, energetic, curious, attentive, active, smart, sociable and incredible fun with children is the boxer, they are also known to be very patient and highly protective of their family members making them the love and desire of many homes. As active dogs, they need a lot of exercise to keep them mentally fit, apparently having a mind of its own, you will find your boxer entertain itself by digging the ground often, chewing, and licking the mouth to beat boredom. They are also very stubborn in character which makes them a terrible choice for first-timers with dogs, they are generally a bit difficult with adult dogs including dogs of a similar breed but friendly with puppies. They usually do not bark unless there is a genuine reason behind it but they love to growl. Environment If you have occupied home with people around all the time or you want a canine buddy the whole time, then a boxer is just the perfect breed to get. Being a highly active dog, they dread loneliness and they can cope finely in both a house and an apartment as long as you provide it with enough room and spaces for exercises and activities. What you must have is a large yard if you are living in a house for it to dig the ground and run around as it likes. And more so, if you are given to being away from home most of the time, getting a boxer may not be the best for you and the dog, because they usually get aggressive when left alone. Boxers are known as loud snorers and they drool greatly too. Exercises Boxers are playful and very energetic dogs as such regular exercises are part of a good canine relationship, especially a breed of this sort. Your boxer should be allowed to play in a fenced area and on-leashed since it is likely to jump and leap around in excitement. This puts a boxer as a bad choice for a frail owner as they may find it a tad impossible and daunting keeping up with its excessive activity demands. Grooming Being a breed with a short and thin coat its grooming demands are quite easy and little, all it needs is a light brushing of the hair twice every week to maintain its good and gleeful looks. Bathing should be a once in a while since boxers are generally clean dogs and its nails, be trimmed once every month or as often as they grow worn on surfaces, its teeth should also be brushed daily to avoid tartar formation and other dental crises. Our Boxer puppies for sale come from either USDA licensed commercial breeders or hobby breeders with no more than 5 breeding mothers. We only purchase puppies from the very best sources, and we stand behind every puppy we sell. Contact us today to learn more about the availability of our Boxer puppies for sale. We look forward to helping you find your next family member. Our pet counselors can answer any questions you have about our Boxer puppies. Yes, boxers are particularly fond of their family members especially when goodly trained. Are Boxers trainable? Though the boxers can be a little headstrong, they are very intelligent and with a proper training environment, they respond well. Are Boxers friendly with kids? They are very fond of children and they love playing games with them. Are Boxers friendly with other animals? Boxers are naturally patient with puppies, pooches and small animals but a bit unaccommodating of adult dogs and other animals. Are Boxers good apartment dogs? They can live anywhere you make as a home all you need is to provide it with enough space for exercise. How is Boxers shedding? Given the shortness of their coat, they shed minimally and occasionally, you can also regulate the shedding by frequent brushing of their coat. Are Boxers good for first-time owners? Not quite, as their exercise needs are way too high for their inexperienced hands. Are Boxers loud barkers? But growling is a thing they do most. Are Boxers tolerable to heat and cold? All they need is moderate exposure to heat and cold because of their thin fur body. How long can Boxers live? The average life-span of boxers is 10 years.

I am familiar with common and uncommon health problems they may face so when my boyfriend and I decided we were ready to adopt our own english puppy finding a reputable breeder that prioritizes health was most important to us. Erica and Mitch of Bruiser Bulldogs are just that. They are experienced, ethical and quality breeders. I was referred to them by my friend that I trust after I saw their gorgeous healthy puppy. Our Puppy Primrose is the light of our lives! Bruisers was there to assist us every step of the way. We would highly recommend Bruisers Bulldogs to anyone looking for their own happy, healthy pup! Leah H. We were lucky to have come across Bruiser Bulldogs and even more so the fact that they were near our family and hometown made it even better. We have had Clementine Callie for four months now, and she is a wonderful dog. Her personality is amazing, and I think part of it is breeding and the other part is Erika and her family lovingly raising the puppies in their home with plenty of attention and snuggles. I also was impressed that, rather than send the puppies out right at 8 weeks, Erika kept ours for a few extra weeks because she was tiny and not read to leave her mom yet. It's that care that differentiates Bruisers from other breeders. Emily R. Erica was easy to work with thru the entire process from application to adopting and now beyond as we host our new family member, Chief. Her on-call support and willingness to provide open, honest advice to all of our questions and concerns continues to be appreciated. We would highly recommend Bruiser Bulldogs to anyone looking for an English Bulldog to join their family. Elizabeth W. Lady L. They are experienced, responsive and knowledgeable about all things bulldog related. They went above and beyond for us and are truly dedicated to all of their pups! We love our little girl so much and would recommend Bruiser to anyone looking for a healthy beautiful bully. Jonathan E. Erica and Mitch are trustworthy, excellent communicators, fair, passionate, and produce the best bulldogs. We were at the top of the waiting list for months and Erica reached out every litter to see if we were finally ready for a bulldog. When we were, she was very easy to work with. Her knowledge on bulldogs is outstanding. We had many questions on the process and she always knew what was best for the puppy. We've had Penny formerly Blair for two months and she is very healthy, energetic, playful, and sweet. She is great with other people and dogs. We are so happy with our pup. When we are ready for bulldog 2, we will only consider Bruiser Bulldogs. Mitch C. Bowser was born April and is an integral part of our family. When we were first exploring English Bulldog breeders our biggest concern was the overall health of the dogs. We decided to work with Erica at Bruiser Bulldogs because we liked their focus on improving the breeds breathing abilities and the fact that the puppies are raised within her family environment before coming home with their new owners. Bowser also breaths clearly and our vet was impressed with his overall health from the moment we brought him home. All that said we know English Bulldogs have a predisposition to many health issues and that his current health can not predict the future. With that In mind its important to start with a breeder that open to answer any of your questions as Erica has ours, and that strongly believes in improving the breeds overall health profile. Adam B. My sister ended up finding Bruiser Bulldogs and we knew right away that they were the breeder for us. In September we ended up driving 9 hours to pick up two Bruiser bulldog puppies- one for my husband and I and one for my mom. Jackson and Penelope have been nothing but a joy. They are both very athletic and healthy. They are also HUGE snugglers and always want to be with you. It is an absolute pleasure having these two bullies in our lives! Erica is very knowledgeable about the breed. She is very hands on throughout the process and is just overall a kind and honest person to work with. With all that being said I cannot recommend Bruiser Bulldogs enough! Collyn C. One of the reasons we chose Bruiser Bulldogs was due to the claims about breeding for health. During our first visit at our vet's office, he told us that our pup was one of the healthiest English bulldogs he had ever seen. He is healthy, happy and social. Would recommend to anyone. Christina S. We seen our dog on their website and sent them an Email. Mitch called us and personally walked us through the process and made sure we had the right dog for our family. We couldn't be happier when we picked up our dog Ramsey, Erica made sure we had everything we needed and then some. They are truly amazing people who breed truly amazing dogs! Jim T. Free Bulldog Puppy Starter Kit! At BigBullDogs. We offer the best service for purchasing the perfect bulldog puppies, and we have quality studs that have set us apart as the top breeders for bulldogs. Whatever it is that you need regarding these beautiful bullies, this is the right place for you. Here are the varieties we have; What You Need to Know About English Bulldogs English Bulldogs are very distinct from the other breeds of bulldogs and are the more prevalent breed. These sturdy, muscular dogs have a cute waddle walk that directly results from their short, stubby legs. The English bulldog also has a flat-looking face, dark and low set eyes, massive and broad jaws, and fleshy cheeks and lips that give it that signature pouty and droopy look. Its short neck, thick shoulders, and barrelled chest, slightly arched back make it one breed that you can easily identify anywhere. Our standard Male English bulldogs are inches and weigh an average of 50 pounds, while the Female English bulldogs weigh about 40 pounds. All our English bulldogs have the finest textured coats and healthiest skin with a variety of colour patterns. Whether you pick a male English bulldog or female English bulldog from us, you can be assured of their wonderful demeanor and gentle disposition. The AKC recognizes over dog breeds and rated the Bulldog as 2 for the best family dog breed. They are incredible family dogs but not the best watch dogs these days. The last nine decades of domestication has turned them into couch potatoes, considerably different from their original genetic breeding that made them perfect for Bull Baiting. Nevertheless they are fantastic at lying on the couch and giving you the stink eye when you disturb their rest. Quick Guide to French Bulldogs French bulldogs were named for their origin story, which says that they were a breed of English toy bulldogs and several unidentified dog breeds. They have distinct features that make them stand out against their English counterparts, such as their pointy, bat ears. French bulldogs are small, cute dogs that are very playful and perfect for being a home pet. Regardless of whether you pick the male french bulldogs or the female French bulldogs , you get a pet that is calm, attentive, attention-loving, and a partner to you and your kids. The male french bulldog is an estimated 12 inches in height and 25 pounds in weight. On the other hand, the female french bulldog is about 11 inches and 20 pounds. The male french bulldogs are usually a bit more muscular than females and have larger heads. However both are equally affectionate and super family oriented. Not to be outdone by their British Bulldog cousin, the female french bulldogs also made the Top 10 Best Family Dog breeds list in .Looking to Adopt Bulldogs?

Stella is a 1. Stella is a typical Old English Bulldog. She is rambunctious, mischievous, fun-loving, loyal, smart, driven, and strong. With a strong consistent leader, Stella is on her best behavior. She is an overall sweet, lovable girl that enjoys belly rubs and exploring the yard! Stella is desperate for structure, boundaries, and a solid iron-clad routine. Stella is in a home with several furry foster siblings. She is interested in other dogs and has learned how to passively coexist around them while she is kenneled. Stella is learning to be polite, how to take direction, and making improvements every day! She is experiencing a big transition and will need firm leadership, patience, and consistent training to help her learn proper dog behavior, learn proper dog manners, and know what is expected in her adoptive home. Although Stella needs structure and does push the limits, she does look to his leader for direction. Positive reinforcement and a lot of praise when positive behavior is present have really worked wonders for her especially when snacks are involved! Stella has met several adult humans and has done well with them. She is strong and can easily knock smaller humans down so her foster family believes she would be best in a home with dog-savvy, mature high school-aged children or older; ideally, she would be best around adults only. We believe Stella would be best in a home as an only dog. She could eventually coexist with a docile, submissive, easy-going large dog as long as structured introductions are offered over months not days. We recommend slow introductions between dogs AND supervision around children when introducing a new dog in your home to make sure both he and they are kept safe. A consistent outside routine is needed to ensure Stella remains successful in her adoptive home. Stella likes her crate and will go in on command although sometimes she needs a little treat as a bribe to go in. Stella would do well in a home with a fully fenced yard, a family that can spend a lot of structured time with her, and is willing to keep her adequately fulfilled daily. If you'd like to give Stella the perfect home please apply below. Virginia, or Hammy as we like to call her, is a mature lady at 8 ish years old, she is a Chihuahua mix. Hammy came into rescue when it was posted on social media that her owner was going to euthanize her for being timid and over weight. Miss Hammy arrived in rescue January , since arriving she's been getting lots of exercise and on a special diet to help get her weight under control. She is still nervous around new people and takes time to warm up but she is the perfect quite housemate. She tolerates respectful dogs and doesn't mind cats, kids and busy environments aren't for her. Hammy recently had a full dental and is waiting for her spay surgery and hernia repair. Hammy would love a quiet home to call her own. Rohan is a 4 year old, female, 70 , American Bulldog mix. Rohan came to us as an owner surrender and has been with us since August .Rohan is a big lover and enjoys together time whether that be cuddling on the couch or going for a hike. She has puppy energy so if you need a hiking buddy she's your girl. She rides excellent in the car and loves going on adventures. Rohan is totally house trained, crate trained, and knows all her basic obedience. Oh, we almost forgot, Rohan is hearing impaired but that doesn't slow her down at all, she's hand signal trained! Rohan would do best in a home with adults only or older children, a fenced in yard, and no other pets. If you'd like to open your homes and hearts to Rohan please apply below to adopt! Pedro Chihuahua Meet Pedro! Pedro is approximately 5 years old, male, long haired Chihuahua. He came to rescue from an unsanitary, neglectful, hoarding situation with over 20 animals at the residence. He was extremely scared upon arrival and has taken weeks to warm up. He is still very nervous of new people and noises but once he trusts you he is the biggest little lover and the perfect lap dog. Pedro will need a patient, quiet home, and an adopter who is able to keep up with his basic grooming needs. Pedro has been neutered and vetted and is ready for a loving forever home. Apply below to adopt Pedro! Maizy Pitbull Terrier Meet Maizy! Maizy is a 2 year old, female, Pitbull Terrier. She came to us after being found as a stray by the Mahoning County Dog Warden. Here is what she's been up to since joining ECBR.I gotta tell you, this foster life I am currently living is da bomb!! I get to play with other dogs, snug with some humans and get this.What a concept! To top it all off, my foster mom is a professional dog trainer! Let's discuss what allll you humans appear to be highly interested in.I am doing good and will do "my thing" as soon as I am taken out of my condo crate. Please keep in mind that a new home will mean new schedules so consistency and patience will be key for both of us. It's my safe space and if I've had enough of your human shenanigans, it allows me an escape. That means a home with no other pets and no small children. However, if you have older respectful kids that would be great! I am not much of a barker but will for sure give you a "woo-woo" if I discover that you are slow to prepare my food :. Let's discuss my leash manners not my fav topic. Suffice it to say that they are a work in progress : When we are out for a walk, and I see my house I will pull in an attempt to get back asap because after all.But foster mom is certain that we can work thru it, and I can be taught how to walk "politely" on a leash. Lots of you folks want to know if I would run out of an open door. Foster mom says she is happy to teach you all the tricks of training if you have questions which is a great thing for you as well as me because I really want to keep learning how to be a good girl. As you may be able to see by my earlier pictures, I was owned by a not so loving person. But foster mom says that I am rebounding quickly and am gaining confidence as I become more comfortable. Imagine how devastated I was the first time I came face to face with my reflection!! All my ribs showing, my poor ears cut off in some kind of home ear cropping attempt with scissors, flea ridden, lackluster fur and scars all over my face. The only good thing about all that is that it is in the past and now I search out mirrors in every room!! How do I see my future? Well, I hope to continue on the same path I am currently walking.Cavo is a young male Pitbull Terrier. We guess him to be around 9 months old. He was found as a stray and when his owners never came forward his finder reached out to us for help. Cavo is a very playful sweet boy, he is very timid of quick movements and loud noises but we fell he will get over this with time. Cavo needs a patient understanding adopter who's going to work with him to gain confidence and become the best dog he can be. He is dog friendly and is a silly playful guys once he's comfortable with you. Cavo is waiting to be vetted and will be adoptable very soon! Contact Sammich Boxer Welcome Sammich! Sammich aka Sammy is a 1ish year old, male, Boxer. Sammy came into rescue after being caught as a stray by good Samaritans. Once caught they spread the word and tried to find his people but no one came forward. They quickly realized Sammy had been mistreated due to his fearful and reactive behavior. After reaching out to a local shelter they were told with Sammy's issues he would likely be euthanized if surrendered to them. Thankfully, they got in touch with us and we were able to bring him into rescue and give him a second chance at life. Sammy is still under going an extended decompression and isn't yet available for adoption. Walter is a 5. He arrived in rescue after his family couldn't keep up with the special care Walter needs. Walter was struck by a car a couple years ago and needed surgery to repair his injuries. He has to learn had to walk again and as a result has nerve damage causing some mobility issues and occasional incontinence. He is currently receiving laser therapy to help repair the nerve damage and improve his continence. Walter is dog friendly and loves to play, he is also cat, and kid friendly. For more information on Walter please email Sara at Sara. Hornbeck EastCoastBulldogRescue. Babs is a 9 month old, female, Pitbull Terrier mix. This sweet, young, petite lady came into rescue when her owner couldn't properly care for her. She is a typical playful pup and is still working on her house manners and training. Babs is dog and cat friendly. She is awaiting her spay appointment and will be adoptable very soon. I will begin by telling you that the most important thing in the world to me is MY happiness! But why not? I mean, just look at me! I am a sight to behold! Here's the skinny.Human attention?? Yup, but like everything else, on my terms only. Will I hang with you on the couch.Some might say that I am a "crabby girl" but I prefer to think of myself as a more independent sort. I can be touched and loved on when I desire it, and I'll give you warning signs if I do not. So, I guess you could say that I will need a home that is willing to give me ample patience and time so that we can understand each other! Check out my video and you will see that when I want to play.Now for all the good stuff.If you take too long to let me back in the house, I will let you know with a bark or two but other than that, I'm not one to bark a ton. I do enjoy a nice car ride and also walk quite well on my leash walks. BONUS, you will not have to worry about me chewing or destroying things in your home like those other less refined canines. Foster mom wanted me to let you know that one thing that I despise is when you humans feel the need to humiliate me by wiping my butt. Ummmmm, I would wager a bet that you humans wouldn't appreciate it should someone try to do the same to you!!! OK, well there it is all laid out!! If you feel you may be worthy of me joining your home, fill out that application and we can check each other out! Dutch is a 13 year old male papillion. He came to us after being found as a stray by animal control. He is dog and cat friendly, but would do just fine as an only dog. His favorite things to do are eat and sleep. Dutch is looking for a foster-to-adopt home. Adoption: Team Members That's all for now! Please be patient, the dog might not be added yet. Proudly created with Wix. We are a core group of 15 experienced volunteers with one mission — to help bulldogs in need. We provide the care, time and love the dogs need until we find their appropriate forever home. Our bulldogs come to us through many venues. Some come to us from shelters where they have been abandoned, or turned in as strays or surrendered where they would otherwise be possibly euthanized. Most of the bulldogs that come into our program are owner surrenders from people who can no longer care for their bulldog. Some people who surrender their bulldogs have had circumstances in their life change due to no fault of their own. No matter the circumstances, we do not judge anyone for needing to rehome a bulldog, but help support their decision to give their bulldog over to rescue. To thoroughly screen families prior to placing our bulldogs to ensure that the needs of both the individual or family and the bulldog are met. Our volunteers work diligently to locate responsible and loving people who wish to make a rescue bulldog a new member of their family. To help educate the public about the bulldog breed and to help reduce the overpopulation of unwanted pets, and the abuse or neglect of bulldogs in our area. To assist people to keep their bulldogs. At times not all owners truly want to surrender their bulldog, but are at a loss as to how to correct a behavioral or health issue, thus improving the lives of the bulldog as well as their owners. To provide follow-up care to the families that have adopted our bulldogs to be sure the bulldog is experiencing a smooth transition to his or her new family, and to answer any and all questions to the best of our ability regarding their new bulldog. Follow Us on Social Media. Share A Story! Read our full affiliate disclosure. They are easily one of the most popular breeds of dogs in the country. In New Jersey, they are a favorite among people looking for pets to complete their homes. One of the best places to get this dog breed is from rescues in New Jersey. They offer french bulldogs for adoption at a very affordable price, and most of the time, you get fully grown and fully rehabilitated dogs. You do not have to worry about further training and, in some cases, medical care. However, finding rescues with french bulldogs in New Jersey can be difficult, so we have curated a list of some of the best places to start your search. These are rescues that are either bulldog specific or have french bulldogs for adoption. We will also include the contact information of these rescues and their adoption processes. This guide is meant to provide you with all you need to get a french bulldog in New Jersey. They are not arranged in any particular order, but they are some of the most likely places to get a french bulldogs. They provide french bulldog rescue and adoption services across the entire country. Their mission is to find and rehabilitate french bulldogs that have been abandoned for one reason or the other. When they feel the dogs are ready again, they put them up for adoption in the hope of finding new forever homes. They do not discriminate, and they take in any dog irrespective of health or behavioral issues. They believe that every french bulldog deserves a chance at happiness. This rescue understands that french bulldogs are not ideal for everyone, so they ensure that each dog is placed in the best possible home. They have also taken it upon themselves to create awareness about french bulldogs and the proper way to treat them. The first thing to do is ensure that the french bulldog you want is a good fit for you. Do not be fooled by the pictures because a lot can be hidden. While choosing a dog, ensure that the dog you want is available for adoption. Once you have chosen a bulldog, complete the online application form through the link provided in the profile of the specific dog you want. This step is very important because you might not get the dog you want if you do not follow it. During the application process, try and provide all the necessary information. How many people are in your household? Do you have any regular visitors that the dog might have to get used to? You should include all the other pets and animals that stay with you. This is necessary because some french bulldogs do not do well with other animals. The more detailed your application is, the easier it would be to process. You cannot submit one application for multiple dogs. Once you have submitted your application, it will be reviewed by the adoption board. They will also crosscheck the veterinary and personal references you provided. This is followed by a phone interview and a visit to your home. The report gotten from these interviews will be compiled and sent to the board together with your application. It is the board that will make the final decision. If your application is successful, the rescue will notify you, and once you have signed the necessary papers and paid the adoption fee, you will have your dog ready for pick up. They have a strict no-shipping policy, so you have to pick up your pet within two weeks of completing all the paperwork. The entire adoption process should take about a month to six weeks. Rescue and Adoption Details.

Here are some fun, and even some unusual, tricks to teach your pooch. Speak- This one usually comes a bit easier than one might expect. Get your dog excited, or even a bit rambunctious. Now, hold a treat, and let your dog see that you have a treat. Your dog, if already trained, may do tricks it already knows, such as sitting or laying down. Once your dog goes through the tricks it knows, it will try to figure out what you want. Your dog will become excited. Give your dog the command to speak. Practice this with people at the door. If your dog becomes quiet when told, give them a treat. Beg- If your dog already knows how to sit, this one is quite simple. Get your dog to sit. Then, holding a treat, raise your hand above its head. Most dogs will automatically pick their front feet up and beg. If your dog is standing on its back feet, try putting the treat closer to the dog. Give the command as you raise your hand. Once your dog begs properly, give it a treat. Shake- Another simple one. Have your dog sit. If your dog allows you to do this, give it a treat. Do this one or two times more. Now, give the command again. This time, simply put your hand out for your dog. Give the dog a treat when this happens and practice from there. Now, flip your hand over. When your dog goes to give you their paw, move your hand away and give your dog a treat. Your dog may be confused at first. Eventually, your dog will be waving without your hand up. Be sure to give your pup lots of praise! Toss it just a few feet from you. Chasing them will only make it a different kind of game, one you will not likely win. Instead, call them back to you, and wait for them to come back with the toy. If they drop it somewhere, go get it, and toss it again. Keep doing this until the dog brings the toy back. Once it does, reward it with a treat. Keep practicing, and soon your dog will have this trick down in no time. Put Away- This one is both fun for your pet, and useful for you. Many dog owners are also parents. What if you could teach your four-legged friend to do the same? Well, you can. Give your dog a toy. As soon as the toy is dropped into the box, give them a treat. Instead, give them their toy again, and repeat the process. Soon your dog will be doing the laundry and dishes too! Dance- Dancing can bring joy to all, including your dog. Give your command, and have your dog hold the position. Give them a treat once they have held it for a moment. First, start with having your dog lay down. Next, show them that you have a treat. Let them smell and even lick the treat, but do not let them have it. If your dog gets up, start over and repeat the process. Each time your dog masters a few more inches, give them a treat. Soon they will be an expert crawler! Kiss- This one is for the ultimate dog-lover, and not the germaphobe. Almost all dogs love to lick, but getting one to touch noses with you without leaving a slimy slick mess across your face is another story. Do this a few more times and soon your dog will have it down pat. Play Piano- This one is super cute, super fun, and super easy. When your dog goes to shake, move your hand and let them hit the keys. When the piano makes a sound, immediately give your dog a treat. Each time your dog hits a key, give a treat. Expand by having them play than one key. Walk Backwards- This is actually more useful than you would think, especially when trying to get your dog to move away from something dangerous or not appropriate for you dog to be around. If your dog is having trouble with it, nudge your dog with your leg or body. Each time the dog takes a step back, praise and reward it. Fetch a drink from the fridge- This trick should only be taught to a dog who is not going to eat everything in your fridge once it is opened. Tie a rope to the handle of your fridge. Encourage your dog to pull and tug on it until the door pops open. When it does, give your dog a treat. Now, add the next element. Encourage them to open the fridge and take the toy. Then have them close the fridge. After they have that down, work on getting your drink out and bringing it to you. You now own a drink-triever, a close cousin to the golden retriever. Prayer Time- This one is great if your dog already knows how to jump up with their front paws. Have your dog sit, and then have them jump up on your forearm and hold the position. Give them a treat each time they hold the position a little longer. Sing along with songs- This one is usually really easy, especially if your dog is already vocal, but it may be a bad idea if you have close-by neighbors or live in apartments. If not, lead by example and begin howling at your favorite music to howl at. Soon, your dog will be howling right along with you. Slalom- This can one of the best tricks to help your dog with speed, agility, and overall exercise and health. Use a treat to weave your dog slowly between the poles. At the end of the poles, give your dog their treat. Repeat this until you can simply give your verbal command and your dog automatically does it. Take a bow- For this one, start your dog in the standing position. Once they are back to standing, reward your dog with the treat and praise. If your dog is having trouble keeping his backside in the air, use your arm, or another object of good height to encourage his buttock to stay in the air. Most dogs usually catch on pretty quickly. It is super easy to lure your pooch into spinning with a well-placed treat in front of their nose. Once your dog makes a full spin, give them the treat. Repeat until your dog is spinning on their own. Just be careful not to let them get to moving too fast. Start by having your dog lay down. As you give the command, have your dog roll onto their side using the treat to coax them. Once they are in the correct position and holding it, give them the treat. Keep practicing until your dog falls or roll over without the treat. Enjoy the hours of fun to come with these awesome tricks! Knowing the best commands to teach your German Shepherd is essential to living happily with them. Commands for German Shepherds establish a two-way street of communication. First, there are basic commands, and then I jump right into more advanced commands and tricks. After getting a German Shepherd, new owners often complain about a lack of communication with their dogs. This makes teaching your GSD easier since you have an essential foundation built. You can also teach different commands for German Shepherds for fun, fitness, impulse control, and even bonding. Basic Commands for German Shepherds Your goal for training commands for your German Shepherd is to master the basics first. German Shepherd Dog training commands generally begin with the basics. Teaching your dog good manners and how to behave in public helps you to handle a large breed dog with confidence. These basic commands for your GSD are useful in your daily life and are a great place to start. A marker word is any word or sound such as a clicker used to mark when your German Shepherd does something correctly. The most common marker words are yes and good. But first, you must teach the meaning of this word to your dog so they understand. You must say the marker word or click the clicker followed immediately by a treat. Repeat your word, along with giving them a treat, until your dog becomes excited about the word. Name Recognition The foundation of German Shepherd training is teaching your dog their name. If you have a multi-dog home, then training their name will let your dogs know who needs to obey. Sit The sit command is part of basic training. It helps them settle down, stay still, and keeps them from jumping on guests. Sit is a great behavior to have on cue to teach your German Shepherd to ask for something they want, prevent them from darting out open doors, and keep them in the car for you to leash them before releasing them. Down The next command is down. Down teaches your German Shepherd to relax, settle for longer periods, and to rest until their next command. Having your German Shepherd in a relaxed down position provides you with better control. But, the most important command will be your following stay command. Stay Stay, while a basic command, is actually a more complex behavior. This is because in order for you to teach your German Shepherd to stay they need to resist distractions. This training is called proofing a behavior. Come Teaching your puppy the come command is a life-saving skill. The come command, also called the recall, is an essential life-saving skill you must teach your German Shepherd. Mastering this command not only gives your dog more freedom but also allows you to take your dog more places. When your dog understands the come command gives you more confidence because you know your dog will return when called. Speak Most owners find that teaching their German Shepherd to speak is much easier than training them to be quiet. The German Shepherd is bred as a watchful and alert companion and is a notorious barker. Generally, when your German Shepherd barks you can add in a command, such as speak, to capture their barking. Quiet As a herding breed, one of the jobs of the German Shepherd was to bark at predators or hazards. This is engrained in the breed. Early on, teach your German Shepherd to be quiet to help counteract their barking. They bark a lot by nature to ward off danger from their home and keep their family safe. Need help with your dog barking at strangers? Often thought of as one of the most useful German Shepherd training commands, the cue wait means to respect the boundary. The wait is also valuable when you need to have your dog pause in certain areas or rooms of your house. It only means your dog must hesitate until you give your permission to cross over the boundary where the wait due was delivered. Watch me or look at me is another great command to teach your German Shepherd. German Shepherds that learn this training are less likely to become distracted in public settings, learn patience while waiting for rewards, and develop better self-control skills. With everything else going on, watch me can get your dog in a better frame of mind. Plus, it allows you to give your dog another command to follow. There are also other ways to get your German Shepherd to listen to you , without a command. While out on walks you might need your dog to ignore old food in the dirt or a neighborhood cat or dog that has her attention. Telling her to leave it keeps her away from those distracting objects for a moment. Drop It Has your dog ever grabbed your shoes and ran through the house with them? If so, then you must teach your German Shepherd the drop it command. Train your dog to drop it by using the reward method to make the training positive. Repeating this training with different items of value, and always keeping your reward worth more than what she has to drop, will give you better results. Stand Why would you ever want to teach your German Shepherd the stand command? Stand also gets your dog up from another position like down or from a trick like a rollover. Especially useful for puppies, the settle cue lets your dog know they need to behave calmly. Heel The purpose of the heel command is to teach your German Shepherd to walk on a loose leash beside you. Have your GSD on your left side, which is the traditional heel side. Hold a treat in your left hand and guide your dog along the seam of your left leg while walking a few steps. Give her the treat for following along on a loose leash. For most herding breeds loose lead walking is a difficult behavior since dogs naturally walk faster than us. Training this command will help you to enjoy safer and more relaxed walks. You can also start training your German Shepherd to walk on a leash right now. You can introduce your dog to new commands to keep up their training skills or purely for entertainment. With the right set of commands, you can give your German Shepherd a job around the house to keep them mentally stimulated and out of trouble. Here are some training commands to give you something fun to teach your German Shepherd and keep their intelligent minds engaged. Maybe you want them to continue walking and pass another dog. Up Training your German Shepherd to get up on something is a great trick. Plus, if your dog learns to jump up when you ask, then they can join you on the couch for movie night, jump onto a stool for easier grooming time, or even increase their activity on walks. Off The off command tells your dog they need to place all four paws back on the ground. This means if they have paws on you, on someone else, or on the furniture they should get all of their paws onto the floor. Instead, teach them the off command so you can guide them with your voice. Shake An easy and cute trick to teach your German Shepherd is shake, also known as give paw. Teaching your dog to give you their paw even helps to desensitize your German Shepherd to having her paws touched. To spice things up with this trick, teach your dog to shake with each paw by naming them different commands. Little by little, your dog will slowly start to lean over to reach the reward. Some German Shepherds are more reserved and will need time to go into the rollover. Not all German Shepherds understand how to return a toy or ball to you once thrown. So, training your German Shepherd to fetch or bring will help them learn how to carry their toys to you for a game. Plus, fetch is a great way to exercise your dog to keep them fit and happy. Use take it to give them permission to have their food, treat, or toy. Go Potty If you want to train your dog to use the bathroom on cue then a potty command is useful. Go potty is a good cue to pair when your puppy does their business outside. After pairing the cue enough times, your German Shepherd learns that go potty is their command for using the toilet. Place instructs your dog to go to a designated spot, sometimes a platform or mat, and wait for the next cue. This is a great behavior to have in your repertoire. Imagine being able to send your German Shepherd to their place when someone knocks on your door. This trick takes more patience than rollover because your dog must stay very still to make the trick convincing. Pair this trick with a few others and you have a complete show for your next party. When your dog goes to bed she will lay down and remain there quietly. Unlike with her place command where she waits for your next words. You can also give your dog a treat to keep her busy and make her go to bed cue rewarding. Try a Kong toy for your German Shepherd that she chews to help relax her while in her bed. You can get your dog to stay in their bed longer by offering them the best bed for your German Shepherd. But, in the beginning, you might notice your new German Shepherd is hesitant to put her paws on you. Spin Spin is a beginner trick for German Shepherds. Use a bit of tasty food to lure your dog into a turn. Keep repeating this action, then pair the word spin with the behavior. For another challenge, teach your German Shepherd to spin the other way. Spin also helps your dog stay limber by stretching her neck and back muscles. Use the word free to tell your German Shepherd that she can go about her own way. For example, use free when releasing your dog from a wait at your back door into an enclosed yard. Before you give the free cue, always make sure the surroundings are safe and free from dangers. Instead, try the break command to teach your German Shepherd to stay near you for her next cue. Then, move on to the next cue so your dog keeps learning and improving. Training Command. If your dog can learn tricks, then he can learn obedience and good manners. Go ahead…have some fun with your dog and teach him a new trick! The best way to teach a trick is to make it fun for him. Use praise and small treats to reward your dog. Only practice new tricks for a few minutes at a time. You never want your dog to get bored when learning new things. Some dogs are born with more instinct to chase things and carry things in their mouths. Let go of his paw. Do this a few time every day. See if he raises the paw by himself. Your dog is not slow; he is just learning! Crawl Start by having your dog lie down. Play Dead Have your dog lay down on his tummy. Encourage him to stay their for a couple of seconds. TIP: You can use a treat to lure your dog into a lying down position. Give him the treat after he has completed the trick. Roll Over Start by having your dog lie down on his belly. You can stand over him or kneel beside him. Using a treat, hold it near his nose and move it around and behind him, so that he follows with his nose and rolls over. Tell him what a great dog he is and give him the treat. If your dog looks uncomfortable, try another trick. Go Back This is an easy one! After your dog is walking backwards with you, try walking toward him only a step or two. As your dog reaches down to get it he may try to lie down , slip your hand under his belly to hold his rear end up. Wave Your dog should already know how to shake hands before learning this trick. Face your dog and hold out your hand as if you are going to shake. TIP: At first your dog may not lift his paw very high. You may have to encourage him a little with your hand so he thinks you are going to shake with him. Waving your hand a little may help to get his paw into a waving motion as well. Our Sponsors.

Some of these you can help prevent, while others are out of your immediate control. If your GSD carries the genes for ears that lie down, instead of standing erect, then more than likely they will have floppy ears. This means they may have ears that never stand up and are floppy for life. Breeding Some breeders choose to pair parents that both have large, erect ears. And some buyers and owners prefer this larger style of ears for show or aesthetic purposes. But, there is some theory that breeding a German Shepherd with larger and larger ears might contribute to ears that stay flopped over. Always see the parents of the puppy you buy from the breeder on the premises to see their appearance. Physical Damage or Accidents Puppies are active and mischievous and can get into plenty of trouble. This includes physical damage or accidents that have the cartilage or muscles in their ears. If this happens their ears may suffer long-term damage and not stand up naturally on their own. So watch out for a rough play that might lead to ear damage. And, if your pup has been in an accident that hurt their ears, take them immediately to the vets. Improper and Poor Nutrition German Shepherds need balanced nutrition during crucial growing stages, including vitamins and minerals that aid in cartilage and muscle development of their ears. You should ensure your dog gets the right nutrition from the start to avoid any issues. Along with Vitamin D, calcium helps strengthen the cartilage to aid in building a strong foundation for the ears to stand up later. Neglecting Ear Cleaning Puppies still need ear cleaning when dirt and build-up are overly present. Dirty ears that become neglected can inhibit proper growth and cause discomfort for your dog, causing them to excessively scratch their ears which can cause damage. This could cause them more harm! Instead, wipe away the dirt from the skin of the ear with a warm, damp washcloth or use special ear cleaning wipes. A dog with one floppy ear and one ear upright is totally normal. Occasionally, your German Shepherd might have one floppy ear and one ear standing upright. If they are a small puppy then they are most likely growing and the one ear down still needs time to go upright naturally. These are some of the best techniques that will help their ears to stand up. They only need to sit inside the ear enough to support cartilage growth. Make sure you check for any creases or folds in their ears before moving on to the next step. Repeat in the other ear. Make a Popsicle Support Now, take the popsicle sticks and place them at the top of the foam rollers both ears should have foam rollers in them at this point. You might need another pair of hands to help with this, so ask your family or friends to help. Take the self-adhering waterproof tape and place a medium-size piece across and around the two foam rollers and popsicle sticks. This ensures even and symmetrical growth. Make a bridge across their ears instead. If your German Shepherd puppy is 9 months old and their ears still flop over, please see your vet for further assistance. When in doubt, get your vet to show you what to do for their ears. Your puppy might become annoyed with the tape on their ears, so they may need close supervision and even some distraction during the taping process. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a German Shepherd that has floppy ears and putting them at risk to have any unnecessary surgery to get their ears to stand up can cause them pain. Speak to your vet about the side effects and pain associated with ear implants. You can help prevent floppy ears in your dog by taking the appropriate steps to keep them healthy. The top ways to help a GSD with floppy ears include: 1. Feed them a high-quality food Giving your dog the proper nutrition for optimum growth is a necessity, especially when they are puppies and growing rapidly. Choose a puppy food with the correct ratio of nutrients and vitamins to ensure they get the correct building blocks for development. When you choose to give them treats, pick ones from this list of the best healthy dog treats for German Shepherd puppies. Provide them with the proper chew toys Chewing helps to strengthen the muscles that surround the ears. Or worse… Injure them. Learn to play and discipline a German Shepherd puppy the right way to avoid accidental ear injuries or damage. German Shepherds with ears that are floppy are a joy to own, no matter their age! Floppy ears are adorable and give your dog even more character. Go on, and find out what makes your companion the happiest dog on the planet! She has a Bachelor of Science degree, with Honors, and has been training dogs for over a decade. Related Posts. A thick-bellied and thick-legged cub of a Shepherd color with a long tail and dense fur can only be finally classified as purebred when the ears of a German Shepherd puppy stand up. The ears of a true German Shepherd are, according to the standard, erect, of the medium size, set high, with the ends directed forward and up, and not adjacent to the skull on both sides, even when a Shepherd dog is in motion or presses its ears or lowers them in a calm position. When German Shepherd ears stand up when excited, the distance between their highest points tips should visually equal the width of the auricle. Since the range of frequencies heard by a dog is much higher than that of a human, a German Shepherd determines the source of the sound and its direction and location instantly and accurately due to such an auricle at a distance of m depending on the pitch of the sound. Moreover, a Shepherd can hear the peals of thunder or the sound of a working chainsaw at a distance of km. The lowest sound for a human is 16 Hz, while the highest one is 20 thousand Hz. The upper limit of frequency fluctuations perceived by a GS dog as a sound is thousand Hz. Clear hearing is especially important for a German Shepherd as for a dog with high service qualities and no less high requirements for its work. Sensitive ears allow not only for relying on a Shepherd dog as an excellent guard but also for guiding it at great distances, giving commands at frequencies that are not perceived by the human ear or in an undertone. Their small ears are also imperfect — they are rather soft due to the underdeveloped cartilage that makes up the auricle. That is why there are separate German Shepherd puppy ears stages when they start standing up. The cartilaginous plate is covered on both sides with a layer of thin connective tissue that provides the main cartilage with growth and nutrition and is called the perichondrium. The perichondrium, on the contrary, is dotted with mini-hematopoietic capillaries and blood vessels. Through them, the cartilage receives necessary substances for its growth and compaction with the help of conventional diffusion literally, penetration by contact. In the same way, the ear cartilage of a GS dog is built on, and the perichondrium has semi-stem cells which, like bricks, are built into the cartilage tissue. Cartilage cells, in turn, produce collagen and elastin. This is due to the active work of all parts of the auricle cartilage and perichondrium. Up to 4 months, cartilage tissues are especially active, but by the fifth month, the growth of elastic layers and the embedding of stem cells decreases. Having reached a certain density, ear growth slows down, and in a short time, it almost diminishes. The metabolism in the auricle becomes so low that visually the ear seems to no longer grow. However, limited living processes in it continue throughout life. Otherwise, it would be impossible to restore the tissues of the German Shepherd puppy ears in case of damage. To do this, you need to feed the puppy a balanced diet with enough calcium and phosphorus. Excess calcium and phosphorus can adversely affect the formation of the ear cartilage and the development of the musculoskeletal system of a German Shepherd. We must not forget about the composition of the blood because it is the main food for the growth and strengthening of the cartilage plate due to the diffuse contact with it via the perichondrium. Not only nutrition but also the obligatory physical activity of a German Shepherd puppy, both at home and on walks , help improve the blood supply to the perichondrium. Under such keeping conditions, the ears of the Shepherd stand up on time and additional actions on the part of an owner are not required. The optimal age when the ears should stand up is 5 months. Do not be afraid if the ears are 1. This sometimes happens. You need to worry if the puppy is already 8 months old, and the ears still do not rise. If at the age of 12 months, the ears are still not on top, the question of a purebred puppy will emerge. Teeth and Ears It often happens that at 2- 3 months the ears of a Shepherd stood up, and at 4 they fell one or two at once This is a normal process associated with the change of teeth, when the body mobilizes all the microelements to build a strong dental system, pulling phosphorus and calcium front he cartilage in this direction. At the same time, the drooping ears should stand up. Hurry up! After a year, hopes to put up ears in a German Shepherd are melting exponentially. There may be, for example, a birthing crease, subluxation, or hematoma as a result of injury to the ear canal. Has your dog ever had ear infections or other ear problems? They can involve inflammation of the middle ear, otodectosis, or a forest tick attack. Have you noticed any allergic reactions in your pet? It may be allergic to dairy products or antibiotics. If antibiotics or immunomodulators were used, what did your dog get sick with, and how often? Infectious diseases significantly inhibit the development of a Shepherd dog and slow down growth and physiological formation, including cartilage tissues. The latter is in charge of whether the ears of a GS puppy will stand up or it will remain floppy-eared. In what conditions is the young Shepherd kept? When living in an aviary, a dog must have a warmed booth in winter to avoid hypothermia of the ears, leading to spasms of small vessels of the perichondrium and a dense canopy from the sun in summer — overheating also leads to spasms. Do you walk and talk enough to your dog? Each age demands its own supplements developed for puppies, and they are also divided by the size of the dogs: small, medium, and large dogs. The German Shepherd is a large breed! This is one of the most common problems in pedigree dogs, including German Shepherds. Diseases associated with the imbalance of hormones lead to problems with the immune system and prevent the body from proper formations of all organs and their functions. Overfeeding a German Shepherd as well as underfeeding leads to a deficiency of micro-and macroelements, which highly contributes to the timely formation of cartilage tissues by the age when the Shepherd should raise its ears. Have there been any stressful situations? Cortisol, a stress hormone, activates a defense mechanism that blocks the production of new cells including semi-stem cells in cartilage tissues , reduces blood flow, and forms a negative calcium balance in the body of a Shepherd dog. Very often, this problem is transmitted at the genetic level, and your German Shepherd floppy ears can be a result of it. When was the last vaccination administered? After vaccination, the body of a GS dog begins the active formation of immunity. The process requires the consumption of microelements and vitamins for biochemical reactions, so their deficiency is formed, similar to the condition after an illness. How often do you pet your puppy on the head? At your touch, the Shepherd dog instinctively lays its ears back, getting used to keeping them folded lengthwise from the base to the top. The result will be an acquired crease or scar along with the entire ear that keeps the German Shepherd ears down, and this will require cartilage adjustment. If the doctor sees it necessary, your pet will have to take a blood test, undergo an ultrasound, and possibly take some x-rays. Treatment Based on the results of the examination, the doctor will prescribe medicines most often — flavonoids, vitamins, glucosamine, calcitonin, thyroxine, iodine, zinc, iron, manganese, copper, and magnesium , which normalize the composition of the blood and add the necessary building material to the body. It is important to carry out all the medicinal prescriptions under the supervision of a veterinarian. An overabundance of any element can lead to a deterioration in the general condition of the pet and its ears in particular. In addition to medication, the doctor will most likely prescribe an ear massage at home. The massage procedure is not complicated — knead the ear from the base to the very tip between the thumb and forefinger, helping to improve blood supply, for about 5 minutes, times a day. Be careful with the place where the ear is attached to the head! This place does not need to be kneaded, only the auricle itself! Though, the most favorable result will not be long in coming — the ears of Shepherd dogs stand up in just a week or two. It is worse if the veterinarian makes a diagnosis of the atypical defect of the ear cartilage. What does it mean? Is it safe for the health of the Shepherd? And is it possible to put ears on a puppy with such a diagnosis? Atypical Cartilage and Ways to Eliminate Consequences Atypical cartilage is a defect in the development of the ear cartilage, resulting from a damaged structure of ear tissues, and their inability to support the ear in an upright position. This often occurs in young dogs after the ears have stood up, and then an ear or even two has fallen off. The same picture can be observed in old Shepherd dogs — the ear or both fall off and then rise again. The reason is the same — deformation of the ear cartilage due to long years of life at old age. However, with the old GSs, it will no longer be possible to return the ears to a stable standing position. Nevertheless, it is quite possible to correct the position of the young German Shepherd ears — they need to be glued, allowing the cartilage to recover. Gluing is nothing more than the necessary support for the intensive synthesis of elastin a connective protein in tissues and its uniform growth over the entire area of the ear cartilage. Properly glued ears do not allow creases or folds, never stretch scars, and make it possible to fill these creases with full-fledged elastin within 1. In this case, the puppy or young GS should be given maintenance vitamin supplements containing gelatin. Good results are also provided by a steep bone jelly or soaked food gelatin, 1 tbsp before every feeding. Adding bone meal and sea fish to the diet is a good solution, too! Taping Ears Correctly Since when is it worth starting the taping process? Until months of age, cartilage correction is unlikely to be needed. It is better to use the support in the form of massage and, possibly, a garter to put two ears together from months of age so that they take the correct position on the head. Feel the ear from its base to tip. If a crease or scar is found, you need to tape the ear urgently! You can watch some videos to see how to tape German Shepherd ears correctly. To correct one non-standing ear if the cartilage is even and of good density, without creases and scars, you can resort to a cardboard or plastic insert that maintains the ear in the desired position. Watch some videos to see how to do that. In any case, do not despair! David W. I admire German Shepherds. They are magnificent dogs! I have been dealing with dogs, namely German Shepherds, throughout my life. I have been working part-time as a dog trainer and instructor for about 5 years, dealing mainly with German Shepherds. So I know a bit about these animals. Therefore, I decided to share my knowledge and experience about this fantastic breed. If you need help with advice and care tips or want to know more about German Shepherd dogs, welcome to this blog. Bright eyes, strong profiles, and of course, those perky, attentive ears! When you first bring your German Shepherd puppy home, its ears will probably be floppy and droopy — at times, those ears may try to make a stand, only to fall back down again. What gives!? As your German Shepherd grows and gets the right nutrition among other things , the cartilage gets stronger and stronger. And voila — straight, pointy German Shepherd ears! But is it really that simple? Sometimes, yes. Sometimes, no. German Shepherd puppy ears can be unpredictable! The key is to be patient and give those ears time to develop on their own before stepping in. Those ears should perk back up after teething is over. If you want to learn more about the timing of teething and what to look for, check out this article on German Shepherd puppy teething. When went to visit my German Shepherd, Allie pictured above at 7 weeks old , her ears were floppy and undeniably precious. I brought Allie home at 8 weeks, and those ears still had their ups and downs, but by 10 weeks old, her ears were up permanently. So, the key is to catch it in time. This flip-floppy stage is completely normal. Genetics can also come into play when some breeders try to breed specifically for German Shepherds with larger ears. As a result, those big, oversized, heavy ears may be too much to stand up. If pointy, perky ears are important to you, then choose your breeder and puppy carefully. Make sure to check out the parents — how do their ears look? Any significant trauma to the ears during this time can cause permanent damage — which may also cause droopy ears. Try to have everyone keep their hands off those adorable ears as much as possible. Parasites: Yuck. Puppies need chew toys, as it exercises their jaw and their head and neck muscles. Those muscles are important for perky puppy ears. So, let your puppy chew, chew, and chew on the right things of course. If you need some ideas for durable dog toys that can withstand those chomping jaws, then check out this article for my picks of the best tough German Shepherd chew toys. Stick to a high-quality, natural diet instead. Cottage cheese and yogurt both have plenty of calcium without overdoing it , and chicken feet are a natural source of glucosamine, which helps strengthen cartilage. Give those ears time to develop on their own before you resort to taping. At the end of the article are some sources that go over common methods of taping. Note: There are several options that you can use for this — there are even foam dog ear forms. Thin, white surgical tape that tears easily. A 2-inch wide tape works well, and you can also get this at Walmart, CVS, or somewhere similar. Note: Do NOT use duct tape or electrical tape — these will do way more harm than good! An unsharpened pencil or popsicle stick. Adhesive — either skin bond adhesive or eyelash glue are good choices. Give those ears plenty of time to develop and get stronger before taking action. How old was your German Shepherd puppy when its ears finally stood up? Let me know below! Upright and relaxed This is a good sign and indicates a happy dog. Relaxed ears mean they are comfortable in their environment. However, ears back is a sign of a very uncomfortable dog. Submissive dogs will also flatten their ears a lot. Pricked or forward Ears forward means something is catching their attention. This is usually just curiosity. However, this ear position can also indicate unease and can escalate to aggression quickly. Use other body clues to help you, especially bared teeth. Flip-flopped Ears pointing in different directions floppy ears look adorable, but also tell you something about their mood. It usually means they have two focal points of interest, such as keeping an ear on you while tracking something moving behind them. Flicking It means that your dog is feeling unsettled. Rapid changes in ear position mean they might be feeling overwhelmed. A lot is going on in their head, and again, you need to pay attention and manage the situation as an owner. It could be that a lot of noise or stimulus is worrying them. They can also flick their ears if flies or bugs are bothering them or if there are other dogs nearby. This is a bit of an ambiguous description and can refer to two types of ear movement in German Shepherds. Your dog needs immediate reassurance or problems could follow. And if your dog is normally confident, or leans toward aggression, it needs immediate owner attention to reassure the dog, diffuse the situation, and take control. How to Calm an Anxious Dog? If your dog gives clear alarm signals, it may warn you of a danger ahead. You may need to break their intense focus. Distract them—turn and walk the other way a few paces—or start a new activity. Remember to teach your German Shepherd how to interact positively with other people and dogs. Start by soothing the dog with a calm, controlled voice. Reassure them. If your dog is naturally aggressive, you need to address this over time through positive reinforcement and dog training. Likewise, you may want to work with positive confidence-building techniques to give a naturally submissive dog more confidence in situations. Good socialization is always helpful for this. A confident and friendly dog feels secure. A submissive and fearful one is scared and can act unpredictably. However, pinned and flat ears are certainly a cause for concern. Should this happen, a responsive and responsible pet owner must immediately act. In the long-term, you should work on any fear or aggression in your dog and help them channel it in healthier ways. Well, there are a few different possible explanations. Causes can vary from age-related to genetic and medical issues. All puppies are born with soft, floppy ears. This is because the cartilage and muscles in their ears have not developed yet. Although some breeds, like Spaniels and Poodles, always have floppy ears, others, like most Shepherd breeds , almost always have pointy, pricked, upright ones. In such breeds, their ears should start to stand up between weeks of age as the bones and muscles in their bodies develop and strengthen. Are they both floppy — or is only one of them drooping whilst the other stands up normally? Teething Several young puppies experience floppy ears during teething. Teething is a period that all infant mammals go through, in which their baby or milk teeth fall out and their adult teeth grow in. It starts at around three weeks old and ends at months of age, although it can take longer. So, their bodies may draw calcium out of other areas, such as the ears, weakening their skeletal structure and making them flop. You may even notice that their ears look different every day during this period. They might be up-right one day, then floppy the next, or even change throughout the day depending on their mood. Their ears will return back to their original shape as soon as their hormones calm down. Although most German Shepherds have up-right ears, some can have floppy or semi-pricked ones. Judges of dog shows and competitions also often look for large ears in the breed. Poor nutrition during puppyhood As mentioned above, calcium is needed to develop and strengthen the cartilage in the ears in order for them to stand up. Vitamin D is also needed to keep bones healthy and strong. This is especially common in rescue dogs that come from puppy farms, homelessness, and neglectful backgrounds. Always buy from reputable breeders! Other symptoms of calcium and vitamin D deficiencies include muscle spasms and joint issues. If severe, nutrient deficiencies can be deadly. Both conditions require urgent veterinary attention, and treatments will likely include special diets and supplements. Similar to malnutrition, this is common in dogs that come from a background of neglect or homelessness. A build-up of wax, debris, or dirt can make the ears heavy and cause them to droop. Poor hygiene As we mentioned above, poor ear hygiene can lead to drooping of the ears. It can also lead to smelliness and infection. All dogs have self-cleaning mechanisms in their ears. However, allergies and hormone imbalances can cause disruptions to the mechanisms, meaning they require some extra care. Dogs can be allergic to environmental allergens like pollen, household cleaning products, and foods like wheat and dairy. Other symptoms of allergies can include skin irritation, coughing, sneezing, runny noses and eyes, and stomach upsets. Each has different symptoms, but they often include drastic changes in energy, coat, thirst, appetite, and weight. German Shepherds are also particularly prone to experiencing hormonal disorders. Ear mites Another cause of ear drooping in German Shepherds is ear mites. Ear mites can be picked up outdoors, or from coming into contact with another animal with the condition. The inflammation from the infestation can cause droopiness in the affected ear. Other symptoms include excessive itchiness, and redness, bleeding, and swelling from the constant scratching. If left untreated, the infestation can cause disease, which can lead to hearing loss and balance issues. Infection Ear infections can be bacterial or fungal, and they can affect both the inner or outer ear. They are most often picked up after exposure to water, and the inflammation can cause the affected ear to droop. Other symptoms can include redness, swelling, irritation, discharge, and excessive head shaking or scratching at the ear. Vets can treat ear infections with antibacterial or antifungal medications, but they need to be treated quickly before they spread or cause permanent damage. Trauma Physical trauma to the ears can also cause them to droop. The most common trauma that causes changes to the shape of the ears in German Shepherds are bites from fighting with other dogs. If your dog has a visible injury to their ear, you should take them to see their vet to check it over and dress any wounds to prevent infection. Make sure to brush your GSD regularly, also around the head and ears — these dogs shed heavily! You can get these over-the-counter at your vet, online, or in a pet store. You can also use a few drops of olive oil for wax build-up, but not too much. To administer, get a towel and ask your dog to lie down in a comfortable place in the home. Then, massage the mase of their ears for around 30 seconds to help it loosen any wax or dirt. Finally, allow your dog to shake their head and use the towel to catch what comes out. That said, if they have particularly problem ears, you should ask your vet and do it however often they suggest, which could be weekly or monthly. However, this is very controversial. It is not yet illegal in the USA, but it is also not something that we would recommend outside of medical necessity, as it can be unnecessarily stressful and painful for dogs. The method known as taping is done by placing something, usually tape, inside the ear to make it stand up straight and grow into that position permanently. It can be effective when done during puppyhood and usually takes weeks to work. As we mentioned above, nutritional deficiencies can cause the ears to flop. Puppies should eat nutritionally complete and balanced food that is enriched with calcium, vitamin D, and DHA for healthy bone and brain development, as well as high-quality protein sources like chicken and fish for strong muscles, and tasty, fiber-rich fruits and veggies. All puppies should have a handful of strong, hardy chew toys to avoid being destroyed during teething, but they can also help the ears to stand up. This is because the ears are connected to the jaw. So, strong jaw muscles means stronger ears, too! Finally, you should avoid playing too rough with your pup and interacting with boisterous dogs to prevent accidents and traumas, which, as we mentioned above, could damage or change the shape of their ears. Dogs communicate with us owners in many ways; they bark, they growl, and they use their bodies. Body language is a key part of understanding how your dog is feeling. Dogs use their entire bodies to communicate; including their tails, their eyes, and their ears! This often happens when a suspicious stranger or an unknown or unfriendly dog is approaching, or when there is a strange noise inside the home. When their ears go back or downwards, it could simply mean that they are listening, or it could indicate either excitement or anxiety. Excited dogs may whine, wag their tails very quickly, and run towards what they are excited about. This happens a lot when dogs are greeting a loved one. An anxious dog, on the other hand, may lower their head and cower their bodies away from what is causing their anxiety. If they are frightened, they may also tremble and whine, and if they are feeling angry or threatened, they may show their teeth and growl. This can happen when a dog is exposed to a phobia or an aggressive dog. It can be difficult to determine exactly how a mixed dog will look. Different pups from the same litter can also present with different traits from their siblings. That said, certain traits, like short hair, for example, are genetically dominant and therefore will be passed on over others, like long hair, which is genetically recessive. Dominant traits are those that require only one copy of a specific gene for the trait to be passed down to a pup. Recessive traits, on the other hand, need two copies; one from each parent. So, which is dominant; pricked or floppy ears? The answer is — floppy ears! Floppy ears are genetically dominant to pricked ears in dogs. That said, different ear shapes in dogs does tend to reflect their original working purpose. For example, the Spaniel, a gun dog, has floppy ears that gather and hold scent particles. This helped them track down what they were looking for much faster back in the day. German Shepherds, on the other hand, along with other wolf-like breeds, such as the Siberian Husky , have pricked, pointed ears. This is thought to aid their hearing during guard work, keep their body temperature under control during strenuous hunts, and give them an alert look to ward off predators. This may be why people are statistically more likely to perceive dogs with pricked ears as more threatening, according to research conducted by James Madison University, USA, in .This is not necessarily true, however, as any dog lover will know. It is likely down to something old and instinctual, as they also discovered that people perceived coat colors differently, too. The type of ears that a dog has can affect their hearing. Whether a dog has pricked ears or floppy ears, they have 18 different muscles that control them to funnel sounds from all different directions. A healthy-hearing dog of any kind can still hear from 40 to 60, hertz, which is more than double what human ears can hear! Starting out just training her own Border Collies, she gradually expanded to local classes and seminars, now she travels as far as Europe and teaches students all over the world on how to train their dogs in a positive, bonding, game-based way. She is known for her clear, step-by-step training that lets beginners and advanced dog trainers see lasting results very quickly.

The Labrador Retriever is also the most popular purebred dog in America for the 21st straight year. More than twice as many Labs were registered than any other breed making it a likely leader for many years to come. In a recent article, a licensed professional counselor for more than twenty-five years, explained how owning a Lab can help produce healthier, happier, more well adjusted children. Here is an excerpt from her article: The ten reasons that I am giving for children to have a dog are not listed in order of importance. All of us have different characteristics which we find more important than others. Every reason I list, however, is important to the childhood of your son or daughter. Having a dog helps teach responsibility to children. Caring for the dog will teach children that their pet is dependent on them for food and exercise and love. Dogs require a lot of care; they need to be fed, walked, played with and trained. Children come to understand that dogs have to learn discipline in order to be pleasant around the family and others. Children come to appreciate discipline by observing how important it is in their dog. Having a dog teaches children patience, commitment and selflessness. Caring for a dog takes a great deal of responsibility. Children learn to be less focused on themselves and more patient with others. Responsibility is a key factor in leadership development in children, and one of the best ways of learning responsibility is in the home with the family dog. Being responsible for a dog teaches children valuable life lessons. The lessons that children learn from having a dog are priceless and may just help in being successful in life and in a career. Be sure to read the rest of her seven part article, Ten Reasons to Own a Dog. At Twin Lakes Kennel, we have been breeding and training world class Labrador retrievers for more than thirty-five years. Our second-to-none Puppy Guarantee makes buying a pure-bred Labrador retriever one of the wisest decisions you will ever make. Read the personal testimonials from prominent Lab owners from around the country. And visit our Puppy Page or call Woody or Judi for up-to-date puppy information at .Did you know… Kansas City, formed in and incorporated in October .Kansas City is the third-largest city in the state of Kansas, the county seat of Wyandotte County, and the third-largest city of the Kansas City metropolitan area. It is situated at Kaw Point, which is the junction of the Missouri and Kansas rivers. Our world class Labrador Retrievers puppies for sale! Our Latest Happy Clients! Become A Happy Client! Check out our Puppies for Sale page for Available pups and anticipated litters! Blue after a successful hunt! DuckCreek Kennels is located about 40 miles southeast of Wichita, Kansas, nestled along the edge of the great Flint Hills. Our labs come from reputable lines that are second to none. We pride ourselves in the fact that they are as comfortable in the field and duck blind as they are on a couch! As we build our kennel, look for good solid litters that will compliment and enhance the Dilute coated Labrador Retriever along side the Standard colors. We strive to enhance the breed with quality dogs that are not only intelligent and easily trained but loving and great additions to your home and hunting trips. Our dilutes have been enhanced with improvement breeding and all our Labs have extensive genetic health testing prior to breeding. Please browse our web site. I hope you enjoy. Take special notice of any print in yellow. It will link you to whatever subject is being discussed. We welcome your input. The puppy whisperers!

We may receive commissions from purchases made via our links. Taking fun trips to the beach or the lake with your dog is even better when your lab puppy can swim. Lab puppies can start learning how to swim as soon as they are old enough or at around 12 weeks of age. Lab puppies need to learn how to swim, so they need to start swimming early on. While they do have water instincts, they need to develop before they can build the strength to swim well. This guide will explain what age they can start swimming at and how to train them properly. We have helped many Labrador owners train their dogs to improve their obedience and water capabilities. They are a simple and loving breed with lots of intelligence, so that they can do just about anything. Lab puppies typically need time to develop these skills before they can be safely allowed into the water without supervision. Most labs should wait until about months old before going into the water for the first. It takes time for lab puppies to learn basic skills and gain the strength for swimming. It requires them to grow a bit more to a bigger size too. In general, Labradors love to swim and are renowned for being excellent swimmers. You can introduce your puppy to the water with careful supervision after weeks. The more time you spend with your lab puppy, the faster it will learn how to swim. It is also an excellent way for your lab puppy to trust you more. This is especially true if you bring them into the water younger. For example, your lab puppy will pick up swimming faster at six months compared to only weeks. Follow these steps to train your puppy to swim effectively. Teach Your Lab Puppy Basic Obedience Training your lab puppy to swim is a great idea, but it is not the most important thing you can do with your new dog. You should first teach your dog how to behave correctly with obedience training. This will help them understand what they are supposed to do in certain situations and provide a foundation for learning how to swim later on. After your puppy learns to obey basic commands, training it how to swim will be faster and easier. This will help them to be more comfortable in the water and build a positive association with it. When introducing your dog to the water, you should start by taking them on a short walk near the water's edge. If they are hesitant, try placing their paws in the water for a few seconds before moving on. Once they are comfortable, you can slowly increase their time in the water and eventually take them swimming with you. Gradually increase the depth of the water until they are swimming on their own, and then slowly lower it back down. Training your lab puppy on how to swim can be done through patience and perseverance. You should start slowly, giving your pup treats when paddling for a few seconds before gradually increasing the time they spend in the pool of water. Remain Patient When you first bring a new puppy home, it may not be comfortable in the water. They will likely want to avoid water as much as possible and wag their tail when they see you coming towards the pool or lake. It can take weeks to get used to swimming and even longer for them to stay afloat in deep water. Be patient as they grow and get more comfortable in the water. They have the instinct to use the doggy paddle but need to get comfy. Are Labradors Natural Swimmers? Dogs are not born with the ability to swim. They can only learn how to swim through extensive training. Labradors are no exception. However, Labradors were originally bred as working dogs for hunting and pulling carts, so it is not surprising that they are good at swimming. They have many traits that back up this reputation as well. Once dogs get comfortable in the water, they will know to use their strength to do the doggy paddle to stay afloat. This is something they understand naturally through instincts. Labradors also have a double coat of fur , which is better for the water because it keeps them warmer. This, along with a wide otter tail and webbed paws, makes them great at swimming. Labradors have thicker fur so they will remain warmer than other dogs in cold water. However, this does not mean they can handle freezing temperatures for a long time. We recommend exposing your dog to the water in the summer when it is not too cold. This will allow them to enjoy swimming more too. Lab puppies are susceptible to hypothermia and should never be left in freezing cold water. They might not show any signs of distress, but they can die if they stay in the cold for too long. Practice the same safety tips for your puppy as you would for yourself or a child. Extremely cold waters should be avoided. Here are some tips on taking care of your lab puppy and keeping them safe in the water. Always Supervise Your Puppy Lab puppies should never be left alone in a pool or near any body of water for any time, as they can easily drown if they accidentally fall into the pool. This is especially true for younger puppies that are new to swimming. You can change this approach as your lab gets older and more experienced. But for now, never let them into the water without other people around as a safety precaution. This is especially true if they are in the ocean or a lake, where the water could be more dangerous. Use A Canine Life Jacket Puppies need to be taught how to swim early so they can grow up with the ability to save themselves in the water. A canine life jacket is a great way to keep your lab puppy safe while learning how to swim. It will help them get used to the water experience without causing any harm. The best part about using a canine life jacket is that it will motivate your lab puppy to learn how to swim faster and more efficiently. How to Train Your Labrador Retriever Puppy to Love Water September 5, Labrador retrievers are great hunting and retrieving dogs that make exceptional companions and family pets. If you and your family like to hunt, fish, or play outdoor sports, a Labrador retriever may be the perfect dog for you. When outdoors, you and your Lab can often be around water. It is best not to introduce a dog to water all at once. Because Labs sometimes are hesitant around water, the following steps will help introduce and train a new Lab puppy to be comfortable and enthusiastic around water. Teach Your Lab Basic Commands As soon as you get a Labrador retriever puppy, teach him or her basic commands such as come, sit, stay, down, and leave it. These commands will teach your puppy that you are the pack leader. Keep your Lab puppy with you as much as possible so you can train throughout the day and always have dog treats with you for rewards. At six months of age, you can enroll your Lab in dog obedience school to learn more commands, get exercise and mental stimulation, and become acquainted with other dogs. This training is essential to make sure your dog will be safe when you bring him or her to water for the first time. Introduce Your Puppy to Water While your Labrador retriever puppy is young, you can play in your yard with a garden hose and a small child's pool. Splash water on your puppy's face and feet to acquaint your dog with the sensation of being wet. You can fill a small child's pool with enough water that it is chest deep for your Lab puppy. Toss a small ball or toy into the pool so that your puppy can jump in and fetch it. Walk on a Beach If you live near a lake or ocean, take your Labrador retriever for a walk on the shore or beach. Walk in the shallow water with your Lab so that both of you can get your feet wet. Attach a leash to your Lab's collar to keep him or her close to you as you walk in the water. You can also toss a waterproof toy into the shallow water to entice your Lab to chase and fetch it. The best toy for this activity is soft and in the shape of a small bird or fish so your Lab can easily grab it and hold it in their mouth. Each time you throw your Lab's toy into the shallow water, throw it a little farther away to entice your Lab to get familiar with deeper water. Swim in the Water You can teach your Labrador retriever to swim by getting in a pool, lake, river, or ocean and swimming with them. Dogs will naturally paddle when they are in water deep enough to swim in, but need to learn how to maneuver in the water. To teach your Lab puppy to maneuver and be confident in the water, hold your hand under their chest or belly to keep them afloat as they dog paddle. Speak to your Lab with a gentle voice to reassure and encourage them in the water. Dive In the Water Once you have taught your Labrador retriever to swim, you can teach him or her to dive into the water from a pier or diving board. The best way to do this is to hold your Lab in your arms, dive into the water, and release your Lab to swim out of the water. Once your Lab is familiar with diving, you can dive into the water and then call them to follow you. Socialize with Other Dogs One advantage of enrolling your Labrador retriever in dog obedience school is that they can meet and socialize with other dogs. Your Lab can then learn from watching and following their dog friends in many activities, including swimming. When your Labrador retriever plays outdoors in the water, it is best to use a waterproof polyurethane and nylon webbing collar as it is durable and dries almost instantly. To find items such as a collar, leash, toys, and treats for your Labrador retriever, contact Over Under Clothing online. We have a lifetime guarantee on all of our products and donate a portion of sales to help at-risk dogs. Tweet on Twitter Can Labradors swim naturally or do they need to be taught? But, if your Lab has positive experiences with water from a young age, they will likely love splashing about and swimming. Traits like their double coat, healthy facial conformation, and webbed paws help to make them great swimmers. Can Labradors Swim? If Labs are introduced to swimming gradually as a puppy , they are likely to be happy and confident swimmers. Labs swim, like most other dogs, using the doggy paddle technique! But some Labs might also enjoy diving into the water, and they may love to retrieve things from water. This can be very stressful for them, and can even lead to them avoiding water in the future. The best way to encourage your Lab to swim is to introduce the habit gradually and safely. And the truth is, they were! Originally, Labrador ancestors were bred to work alongside fishermen on the island of Newfoundland, Canada. From these dogs, and other ancestors after British breeders first tried to standardise the Labrador breed, Labs inherited some traits that make them great swimmers. They have a thick, double coat that is water resistant and protects them against the chill of swimming in natural rivers and ponds. They also have a wide otter tail to help them swim, and webbed paws! Do Labradors Like to Swim? The best way to help guarantee that your pup enjoys swimming is to introduce them to water very gradually. Make sure that all of their experiences with water are positive, and that they never feel unsafe in the water. Are All Labs Good Swimmers? Most Labs will be physically able to swim when given the opportunity, or if forced to do so. But, there are a few that may panic and struggle. So, as we said before, you should introduce your Lab to the water very gradually. Some pups will be more enthusiastic than others. All Labradors have traits that can help them be strong swimmers. But, the prominence of these traits varies depending on the type of Labrador you have. When Can Labradors Start Swimming? Firstly, you must wait until your Labrador puppy has all of its necessary vaccinations. This will keep them safe from health problems like parvovirus. This might take longer than you would first think, involving chasing a stick over a small puddle at first. Gradually increase the amount of water your Lab is happy to wade through until it is slightly deeper or slightly wider. When your Labrador is happy, you can increase it again. Never make your Lab jump straight in at the deep end — literally! It may take a few months before your Labrador is happily swimming in deeper water. Can Labradors Swim in Cold Water? There are still risks letting your Lab swim in very cold water. Letting your Lab swim in cold water for extended periods can cause hypothermia, which can be fatal. Waiting for those warmer summer months may be a better idea. Helping your Labrador Swim Safely As well as risks from cold water, there are a few other considerations to make before letting your Labrador swim. If your Lab is swimming in deep water, remember there could be strong undercurrents that could make them lose control. Plus, because lots of Labradors love to swim, they may not stop until they are completely exhausted. Not only does this leave them vulnerable in deep water, but it can cause problems like limber tail , which is very painful for them. This problem usually goes away after a few days, but is still stressful for your pup. Watch out for jellyfish, and worse! Do you have a Labrador at home that loves swimming? We would love to hear about them in the comments! References and Resources. Labradors have a great affinity with water and activities like swimming. So at what age can Lab puppies swim? Can Labradors swim naturally? Do Labs like to swim? We have covered all these questions for you in the below article. Have a look. At what age can Lab puppies swim? Some people say 8 weeks, some say 12 weeks and some say 3 months. There are a lot of conflicting opinions regarding the age when your Labrador puppies can start swimming. Anyone would think like this, as these Labradors are historically linked with the fisherman and icy waters of Newfoundland. Many people even think that Lab puppies can swim at any young age and they keep asking me whether their puppies can swim when they are one month old. There are various factors to consider before determining your Labrador puppy swimming age. Where is your puppy going to swim? Is it near a public pool, or a lake or a pond or a beach? For example, it is probably safe to allow a 3-month-old puppy into a small pond, but it is not safe to allow him in the beach waters. Look at the points below and you will understand the age and time to introduce your Lab puppy to swimming waters. Habituate swimming to your Labrador puppy slowly. Initially, it is always better to make the puppy acquainted with water either in your bathtub or your personal pool. You can start this when your puppy reaches 3 months old. You have to remember that your Lab needs certain physical strength in its legs in order to swim effortlessly. Allow your little Lab to grow until 3 months and then you can introduce him to swimming. Some people tell me that their Labrador puppies started swimming when they are just 8 weeks old. Do not take him into public pools until he is fully vaccinated as there is a risk of deadly diseases for your little puppy. Take him into public water bodies only after he finishes his set of vaccinations. Some puppies take time during the exploration of water, hence remember not to force him in any way to get into the water. Forcing your Lab puppy to get into water does not work and your puppy may develop fear and aversion towards the water. One of my dog Simba was very scared of water and he never preferred to play with water during its lifetime. You can take your puppy to larger water bodies like beach waters when it reaches 6 months of age. My little puppy went into the beach waters when he is around 6 months of age and he enjoyed its day fully. Taking him at a younger age might scare him of the waves and it is even difficult for the little puppy to balance himself in the beach water. Labrador swimming- Complete guide Labradors are perfect swimmers which used to retrieve fish and nets from the cold icy waters of the North Atlantic. Have you seen its thick, dense water-resistant coat? It makes them waterproof. Observe their webbed feet, which help them to swim. Let us consider some basic questions to understand Labrador swimming. Labradors have the innate ability to swim, but that does not mean they can swim like fish. This is especially true with respect to puppies. Their body structure and genetics assist them in paddling in the water. Labradors love swimming and are good swimmers but it does not mean they can swim for any duration of time and anywhere. Hence it is important to remember that they are dogs and they have their limitations. So, do Labs like to swim? But not every Labrador likes to swim. As i told you my dog Simba hates water and he is really scared of it. The reason why some Labs are scared of water is that they are introduced to water in an inappropriate way. Their first experience of water might have been scary and disturbing for them. How to teach a Lab to swim? Even though some Lab puppies begin to swim on their own, some Labs who cannot do it on their own, some Labs which are scared of water, and Labs which are small puppies need to be taught to swim. Firstly introduce your Lab puppy to water splashes and small house pools at a young age so that he gets acquainted with water. If your little pup is scared, do not force him. Give him sufficient time to get adjusted to the water. You can buy a mini Labrador swimming pool in your house to habituate swimming for your little one. You can Buy it here. Whenever you take him to a nearby pool for swimming, keep your palm under his belly or his chest and allow him to move its legs to swim. You can help him like this until he becomes a confident swimmer. Give your puppy a life vest if he is not very comfortable with water. It keeps your puppy buoyant and makes him less tense. Go into the water along with your pup. As your puppy feels safer with you, it feels even more comfortable while swimming. Go for a casual walk along the beach with a leash around your puppy and let him feel the waves. Use positive reinforcement techniques such as giving encouragement, treats and rewards while playing in the water. You can play fetch games in the water which your puppy may like. Labrador swimming safety precautions Looking at your Lab puppy swimming can be delightful and exciting, but there are some precautions you need to take while taking out your puppy for swimming. Never leave your dog alone. Even though Labs can swim sometimes it might be difficult to resist against currents in oceans and rivers. Always keep an eye on your dog as a precautionary measure. It is safe to buy him a good safety vest. We cannot expect when your dog might encounter a risky situation that makes him difficult to swim. Do not overexert your dog while swimming. Sometimes he can manage to go out far from the shore but could not come back as he gets tired. Be careful especially when your Labrador is in its puppy stage as puppies get tired more easily. Always get into a swimming pool that has a sloped ground or steps so that your dog can come out easily. Swimming pools without steps and sloped ground can be risky for dogs. Be careful while swimming in unknown waters. Unknown waters have a risk of dangerous snake bites. Attention: Lack of proper training in the initial stages can build up various anxiety issues and fears in your dog. This can make your dog afraid of any new activity including swimming too. When you want your Lab to enjoy swimming, it could be a phobia for him. Take proper steps of training your dog well to avoid these issues. By Tom Massey Jul 24, The doggy paddle: a staple swimming move for beginners in the water. But where does this name come from? Even Lab puppies will frolic in the water once they get used to it. The truth is that Labs are natural swimmers and have a strong inclination to hop into pretty much any body of water — but why do Labs like to swim? Understanding why Labrador Retrievers love the water can help you better understand your furry friend and his needs. This article will cover why Labs enjoy water sports and examine how you can help water-shy Labradors. Are Labs Naturally Good Swimmers? When raising dogs, many people assume they have an instinct for swimming. Things like webbed toes, long legs, and a water-repellent coat — all traits that Labs possess — make dogs excellent natural swimmers. But where do these characteristics come from? Labs are naturally good swimmers because of what they were bred to do. Toss a stick into the water, and your Lab pup will jump right in to fetch it. When you breed an animal with a clear purpose, specific desirable traits are drawn out over generations. Fishermen on the coast relied on these dogs to help them fish. They trained the dogs to retrieve fishing gear and fish that evaded the nets or traps. They had all the telltale signs of a natural swimmer that could handle cold water — short, oily coats that repelled water, long legs, webbed feet, and oar-like tails. These dogs were also known for their boundless energy, loyalty to their owners, and agility — traits that can certainly be useful in other canine working applications, such as hunting and hauling. In the s, a handful of English noblemen started breeding the now-extinct breed of St. Their goal was to develop the ideal hunting companion — a dog that could retrieve game instead of fish but could still swim to fetch waterfowl, pheasant, and other small game that the hunters would shoot down over ponds, lakes, and other bodies of water. Once early breeders started mating the St. These early Labs were excellent fishing and hunting pals with their unique ability to swim and retrieve fallen game. This breed has been using their skills to please their owners by retrieving game for centuries. Swimming is second nature for these dogs! Well, for most of them, at least. Do All Labradors Love Water? Labrador Retrievers were bred to swim, but not all Labradors enjoy swimming. While American and English Labs both enjoy warm or cold water and will retrieve fish, game, or sticks for their owners, not every dog is alike — even with a natural swimming ability in their genetics. If a Lab dislikes bath time or previously felt out of control in deep water at some point, they may steer clear of bodies of water because of a bad experience in the past. And sometimes, it comes down to personality. They might simply prefer the shore on family trips to the lake or the beach. So what can you do if your Lab dislikes water? For example, to help with bath time fears, spend some time getting him used to sitting in the tub with the door closed without turning on the water. Start small, and eventually, your pup will acclimate to water exposure. Once adjusted to bathtime, let your Lab observe you and other dogs enjoying a swim. So, how long should you let your dog swim? As long as your Lab is accustomed to swimming, minute blocks are okay. Then, as his stamina increases, you can let him swim for longer. Is Swimming Good for Labradors? When it comes to the free-spirited, energetic nature of Labrador Retrievers, swimming is an excellent activity to support their physical and mental health. They hit the pool. Being in water enables your limbs to move easily through their normal range of motion, so injured runners can exercise while supporting their joints. The same is true for dogs. When Labs swim, it decreases the pressure on their joints, making it an excellent alternative to walking on sidewalks. Additionally, as many dogs age, they develop joint problems. Daily swimming exercises can help keep your Labrador healthy and relieve joint pain. Instead of dealing with stressful feelings and passing them on to your pup, you can relieve stress by swimming together. Reason 3: Alleviates Pain If you have access to warm water, such as those beautiful Floridian beaches or a heated pool, swimming can also decrease pain. Swimming in warm water temperature is also known to help dogs recover faster after intense exercise. Larger dogs, like Labs, can be overweight but appear to be the right size. The ideal weight for adult female Labrador Retrievers is a little over 70 pounds, and males should weigh somewhere between the high 70s to low 80s. Whether your vet suggests helping your dog lose a few pounds, swimming will help your Lab reach and maintain a healthy weight. However, swimming is an excellent activity to help your dog stay in shape. Swimming for about one mile is the equivalent of running for four miles! Everybody needs time to let loose and have fun, and Labs are no different. Whether you swim with your Lab or toss a ball in the water for a round of fetch, playtime strengthens the human-dog bond, which encourages your dog to be loyal to his devoted best friend you! Playtime with owners will also help prevent destructive behaviors because your dog will be more relaxed and confident in his place in the pack. But there are a few things Labrador owners should know before putting a puppy into the water. While young, Labrador puppies might not have the physical strength to tread water. During their first swimming session, they should start in shallow water. You can fill up a kiddie pool in your backyard and run around on the shore so your puppy can get his paws wet. Another factor is vaccinations. So keep it positive, relaxing, and fun with low-key bathtime experiences, backyard shenanigans, and puppy-appropriate adventures in the shallows. Conclusion Do Labradors tend to like water? Early breeders wanted strong swimmers who could retrieve things from lakes, rivers, and the sea; thus, the Labrador breed was born. But not all Labradors know how to swim or run head over heels for the water. Eventually, most Labs will take to the water — after all, they are descended from true water dogs! The White Lab puppies at Snowy Pines grow up on acres of land in the Ozarks , where they play in the water, have fun with other puppies, and explore. Take a look at our available puppies and apply to adopt your new pure-bred White English Retriever swimming buddy! Share on. Then I threw a stick out to see what he would do. To my absolute joy, he walked out and got the stick. What is the best age to introduce a Labrador to water? At this early stage of the game, I do not think that every puppy has to be in the water. I think that some people may worry so much about getting a good water dog that they rush this step. While you may or may not get them swimming at this point, you should give them the opportunity to walk through puddles and shallow water. Get your Lab out in the rain and have fun with her. She will learn from you that rain is not something that will keep you inside. The last thing you want to do is get a water-dog scared of the water. The water needs to be fun-time and something they look forward to when they see the lake or river. It can be something your Retriever gets excited about if you will introduce them to it appropriately. Where should you introduce your Lab to water? I believe that one of the greatest places near my home to introduce Retrievers to water is Bear Lake on the Utah-Idaho border. Here are some of the characteristics of this lake that make it ideal: Open beach Firm base Very gradual drop off This setup allows you and your puppy to run and play without worry about depth or sharp rocks. How you should introduce your Retrievers to water. Take your puppy somewhere like that on a nice, warm day. Walk out into the water and see if your puppy follows you. If not, try and coax him into the water by calling his name and splashing a little bit. You run the risk of making the pup afraid of the water. Labradors are bred to love the water. Let the pup come into the water at his own speed. Your encouragement will help. Take your time and eventually, your puppy will be having a blast in the water. If things are moving slower than you want them to, it may help to introduce another, more experienced dog. Bring a dog that is crazy about the water in a good way. See if your puppy forgets about the water as it plays with the other dog. Start them out on the beach and slowly lead the experienced dog into the water. Your puppy will probably follow and start swimming without realizing what is going on. Before you know it, your pup will go from racing along the beach to the shallow water, and then move onto swimming with little reservation. All of this, and you have never had to put your puppy in a situation that will cause him to be nervous about water in the future. An important part of getting your pup accustomed to water, like everything else in raising a dog, is frequent repetition. Let him experience it over and over again. Another Option… Sometimes it can be difficult to get to a beach or pond. In those situations, you may want to purchase one of the cheap, plastic swimming pools like this one. I know that you can purchase cheaper versions at Walmart, but I like the option of folding this one up and putting it on a shelf. You can control the amount of water in the pool. While your dog is wading is shallow water, tease him with his favorite toys. Next time add a little more water and introduce the toys again. When your puppy is confident with water up to his belly, add just enough water so that your puppy can paddle around a little.

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He was the first to howl and let everyone know he is hungry. Pugs are very well-mannered with guests. A pug rescue is a non-profit organization dedicated to rescuing, rehabilitating, and rehoming pugs in need. Find an image of pug to use in your next project. Puppies will have lots of outside time. It is the perfect way to start summer. In contrast, buying Pugs from breeders can be prohibitively expensive. Fill in all the form information as required and submit your form. Our forum community has compiled a detailed list of local pug rescues - feel free to visit any of these rescues to adopt a pug into your family! United States. Michigan Pug Classifieds Hoobly. Pug Puppies for Sale Charming and clever Pugs were once Chinese emperors' mischievous and devoted companions. Browse these Pug rescues and shelters below. Pug Dog Breed Information. Pug Rescue Pug rescues work hard to help homeless pugs find loving families. 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Rachael Ray Nutrish is another brand I love for Labrador Retriever puppies as it is packed with DHA for healthy brain and eye development and specially formulated for young, growing dogs. You can also select different sizes and recipes. My favorite is chicken and brown rice. Bedding And Toys Lab puppies need quality bedding and toys for teething. Labrador puppies grow quickly and have sharp claws and teeth. Puppies also go through a teething phase and will need special teething toys to help soothe their sore mouths and help keep your furniture safe. As far as bedding, the best bedding for a Labrador puppy is going to be made of high quality material that is soft and plush while also being sturdy enough to keep them off the floor and support their growing bodies. KONG toys are wonderful tools to use during crate training , but they also help with separation anxiety , boredom, and the teething stage that all puppies go through. Enter the Nylabone Puppy Starter Pack. These flavored chew toys come both textured and regular to help get your pup and your furniture through the teething stage safely. Cuddly toys like the Smart PetLove Snuggle Puppy Behavioral Aid Toy above can help your new Labrador puppy adjust to sleeping on his own, assist in crate training, and may even help alleviate anxieties including noise phobias and separation anxiety. Puppy blankets are a must and can be used for multiple purposes in your home for your pup. My favorite puppy blankets are blankets that are specially made for dogs, like the Luciphia fleece blankets above. While you can use any blankets on hand, blankets that are specially made for dogs are usually a bit more durable, easier to wash, and have been made with quality and safe material for your pooch. Puppy blankets just make it easy to always a comfy place for your puppy to rest his head no matter where you are. Ultra Squeaker Ball is an absolute favorite in my house and with my clients. I especially love using this toy for puppies who are just getting the hang of playing fetch. For puppies, picking up on how to play fetch can be tough. Balls that squeak or make noise when thrown help to make the game more exciting and help encourage young pups to chase whatever is making that high pitched sound! Leashes, Harnesses, and Collars Collars, leashes, and harnesses are important tools to help socialize your puppy. Getting your puppy used to wearing a leash, harness, and collar is an important step towards socializing them. So even though your Labrador puppy will outgrow his harness and collar quickly, I still suggest investing in these items. Here are five of my favorite leash, harness, and collar products for Labrador Retriever puppies. As I mentioned above, puppies are especially fragile so steer clear of attaching a leash to their collar and try to help them adjust to wearing a harness that is comfortable. What I like about this harness is that it is adjustable so you can use it a bit longer as your puppy grows. Best of all it is the perfect length five feet for puppy training and is a leash your Lab puppy can take with him into adulthood. It is built like a standard leash, but it offers you control over how far away your puppy can get. This is excellent for puppy parents who live in busy neighborhoods or who are working with a puppy who likes to wander. Large breed puppies like Labrador Retrievers require crates that grow with them. This is why I love crates that come with dividers so that they can grow with your Lab puppy. I also recommend playpens, as Labrador puppies are notorious for being very active and energetic. Lab puppies are also incredibly curious and tend to chew a lot in their first few months, which is why indoor dog gates will also be an important part of puppy proofing your home. Take a look at some of my favorite puppy-proofing products below. Nobody likes cleaning up potty accidents. Of course, no one wants a big, bulky pen that takes up half of their home either! I also love that the pen is big enough for puppies to grow into and allows them to learn how to explore a space larger than their crate while keeping them and your home safe from their curiosity. And since crate training is such an important part of puppyhood and actually helps your puppy adjust to being alone and feeling secure, we recommend investing in a good, high quality crate you can use for years. It has two separate doors for entrance and exit and it comes with a divider so it can be adjusted to the size of your dog as he grows. Just remember to leave your pup inside his crate with a KONG and some bedding so he is comfortable, and remember that puppies who are younger than six months old should not stay in their crates for longer than four hours. For those of you who plan to leave your puppy out and about while you are gone and after he is trained, of course , then a crate that folds may be your best bet. The MidWest Foldable Dog Crate posted above is one such crate that is not only made well, but also stores well. Like most crates ideal for Labrador puppies, this crate also comes with a divider so it can grow with your dog. Along with crates and puppy playpens, you also might consider getting a gate to keep your puppy from entering places in your home that may pose a risk to him. Many of my clients keep gates up in their kitchen entryway, or gate their living rooms where puppies are tempted to chew on wood furniture. Richell Wood Freestanding Pet Gate Sale Buy on Amazon For those of you worried about installing something or accidentally damaging walls or paint, there are always free-standing gate options, like the Richell Wood Freestanding Pet Gate. I do like the way these gates look and the simplicity of them, however, they are not always the most secure and may not stand up to a strong and curious puppy. These gates are also not ideal for leaving puppies unsupervised as they can sometimes find ways to knock them down. Grooming your Labrador puppy early on not only helps to socialize him and prepare him for a life of vet visits, groomer visits, and physical contact with people, but it also helps to keep him clean and healthy. Like babies, puppies are more sensitive to certain products and require products that are specifically designed to be gentle on their sensitive skin and fur. Be selective of the shampoos, dog brushes , and other grooming products you pick for your Labrador puppy and make sure you always use high-quality products. Some of the products I recommend most for grooming a Labrador puppy are listed below. Pet Care Sciences Puppy Shampoo. Top Picks For Our Dogs Preparing Your Home For A Puppy You should treat the preparation of your home for the arrival of a new puppy in much the same way as you would for the arrival of a baby because the process is almost identical. You must be ready to provide every little thing your puppy needs in life, making sure they have water, are fed, comfortable, happy, catered for and safe. To achieve this there are 4 main things that you need to do: Go shopping for equipment and supplies Puppy proof your home and garden to make sure your puppy stays safe Set up an area for your puppy to sleep and spend time in when you cannot supervise them Decide on the rules and routines required to successfully raise a puppy Without such preparation, things will be difficult. A Nutritious Puppy Food The most important supply needed for a new puppy is a highly nutritious puppy food. Hopefully your puppy came from a responsible breeder who was feeding them a high quality, complete and nutritious food. If so, you should ask what they were feeding, stock up on and continue feeding this if possible. If not, then puppies are incredibly active, growing fast and developing bone, muscle and more every day. Because of this they need almost double the calories, more protein and have different nutritional needs to mature adult dogs. Furthermore, they have far smaller mouths than adult dogs so puppy food comes in smaller chunks more suited to their size. Click here to see our recommendations for the best puppy food for labs Bowls for Food And Water There is a bewildering array of dog bowl choices out there so choosing the best can be difficult. Looks and design aside, I recommend going for stainless steel bowls because they are long-lasting, cannot be chewed and are very easy to clean. I also recommend buying bowls with heavy rubber bottoms so they stay rooted to the spot and are harder to spill or flip over. Unless of course you buy bowls in a stand, then these problems are already solved. A Puppy Crate And Bedding A good crate is one of the most beneficial things you can provide for the good of yourself and your puppy. First of all, supply some bedding to place inside for your puppy to sleep on. My recommendation for this is VetBed. Many puppies can chew and ingest normal bedding which can result in medical emergencies and VetBed is the most durable bedding on the market. During these times you need to provide a larger, but still safe enclosure to confine your puppy. You might also like to buy a plastic sheet and some puppy pads or use lots of old newspaper for them to use as a potty in your absence. Puppy Chew Toys Puppies chew. A lot. And they seem to prefer chewing phones, footwear and TV remotes more than anything else. Just make sure whatever toys you do buy are suitable for a puppy as many will be too large for their little mouths to begin with. Interactive Puppy Toys So you can play games with your puppy, provide exercise and mental stimulation, you will want to buy a few toys that encourage the two of you to interact. Balls for throwing and chasing, soft toys and ropes for playing tug, other toys for fetch, there are many available. You will also need a collar to provide a place to attach an all important ID tag. ID Tag An ID tag is an essential means to be reunited with your puppy should the worst happen and you somehow lose them or they run away. Clicker A clicker is an extremely useful tool used during training as a reward marker that dramatically improves the timing of communication between you and your puppy when you want to reward a behavior. Although not essential, I do highly recommend you use one. Puppy Training Treats Tasty food treats are the go-to reward used during training so you will want to make sure you always have a good stock at hand. They need to feel happy with being bathed, happy having their coat and teeth brushed, their feet touched, nails clipped and having their eyes and ears inspected. To do so, you should fake going the process, getting them used to being handled, the sight and feel of the tools and so on. To achieve this, you will need to buy and get them used to the following items: Dog shampoo Combs and brushes suitable for a Labrador Scissors Cotton balls Toothbrush Use these tools right away and often, and give your puppy praise and tasty treats as you go so they form positive associations with grooming. Puppy Proof Your Home and Garden The process of puppy proofing your home is very much like baby proofing before the arrival of a child. Except a puppy is far more curious, active and destructive and can get themselves into far more trouble. A puppy is a new-born. Everything is a toy and they will run and pounce and jump and chew on anything in their environment. So before you bring your puppy home you simply must make it safe for them. For things you cannot move skirting boards, table legs etc. To keep them safe while still providing an area for them to play in and stretch their legs, you want to restrict their access to a single room, or otherwise create an enclosed space for them. To do so, either buy a pet barrier or baby gate that goes across a doorway to restrict them to an easy to clean and safe room, or buy an exercise pen puppy pen to create an enclosed space in another room. I also strongly recommend buying a crate for many reasons, but initially, mostly just to provide the perfect place for them to sleep. I shall discuss crate training a little later in this article. All of this must be decided BEFORE you get your puppy home because consistency is a key part of raising a puppy successfully. Everyone must enforce and live by the same rules for your puppy to thrive. Initially they have no idea how you want them to behave, or how and when they can expect the things they want and need in life. The more consistent everybody is with the puppy, the quicker they will learn all this stuff and the happier everyone will be. So decide and write down if necessary when your puppy will have all their needs met, make sure everybody knows who is responsible for each task and make sure everybody knows the rules. You might think the collection and journey home with your new puppy is no big deal, but there are many things can go wrong. Therefore, you should never take a puppy before 8 weeks old. During the first 8 weeks, a puppy learns a lot from their mother and litter-mates: Bite inhibition, canine body language, acceptable play and interaction with other dogs and how to accept discipline. Things you will find it very hard to teach them later yourself. The flip side of this is that the 7 to 14 week stage is the most impressionable for a puppy, where they bond strongest with people and must be socialized to all the sights, sounds and smells of the world so they grow up confident and comfortable with their surroundings. So anyway, for the journey home there a few things you need to consider: Safety in the car, the need for water and toilet breaks and the possibility your puppy will be sick. Having a loose puppy in the car presents a very real danger of leading to a crash, they can easily climb out of a box and now is not the time to use a harness and car safety belt. If the crate is small enough you can place it on a front or rear passenger seat and secure it with the seat-belt, or you may have to place it in the trunk of your car. Fully line the crate with absorbent paper in case there are any accidents, this will keep most of the mess off your puppy and make cleaning easier. And finally, place a chew toy or two in the crate to keep your puppy occupied. If you have another person to help you, your puppy can ride home in their lap if the journey is short. They must be under your passengers control. They will also need to potty every half or so. Therefore, you should plan breaks along the way every 30 minutes or so. Stop the car, allow them to drink, then wait for them to wee before setting off again. When you stop, make sure your puppy is on leash and tightly held by someone before letting them out of the car. And as an extra precaution, carry your puppy and only put them down to do their business, then carry them back into the car. Take with you some towels, plastic bags, kitchen roll and deodorizer to take care of any accidents. And when driving, take all corners slowly, and accelerate and brake gently. If your puppy is on a passengers lap, they will be able to see some warning signs that puppy is about to be sick: Their lips will curl, they will excessively salivate and then eventually start to heave. When your passenger spots these signs, they can place a thick towel beneath the puppy to catch everything and avoid a mess in your vehicle. When bringing home a new puppy, make sure you collect them and then drive straight home. Your puppy is having the most stressful day of their short life so far, try not to make it harder than it already is by taking them to strange places and passing them around to strangers to say hello. You want to get them home quickly so they can start the process of settling in as soon as possible. Whether this is inside on paper, or a spot outside, as soon as you arrive home carry them there, set them down and wait for them to do their business before doing anything else. This might take 30 seconds or it might take 10 minutes, but patiently wait and when they go, praise them profusely. Well done! Shut them in another room away from the puppy as things are intense enough as it is. Explain they have to be calm and gentle during the first introductions. Let them sniff and look around, getting used to the area and their new little world. You can now let people come and say hello. Have people sit or kneel to greet them. Once everybody has said hello, you should stay with your puppy, show interest but stay calm. Allow Your Puppy To Sleep After all the excitement, stress, massive change and huge amount of mental stimulation your puppy has just been through, they will likely need to sleep soon after arriving at your home. So as soon as they either start to look tired, or the introductions to their new living space and family have ended whichever comes first put them to bed for a short while. On the other hand they might feel completely overwhelmed, retreat into themselves and show reluctance to explore. They might slink into a corner silently and sit there watching their new world with wonder but apprehension, before falling asleep for hours. And when it comes to the first night they might sleep right through, or they might cry and whine the whole night. As your puppy begins to get used to everything, their character will start to shine through and you will begin to see their true personalities. Exactly what this will be is different for every puppy…it will be fun for you to find out! And by being the provider of everything they need in life, giving them all that is good, it will only take 2 or 3 days for your puppy to learn to love you and get excited and happy to see you when you turn up. So your task is to set up and stick to these schedules, begin training your puppy and help them to learn how you want them to behave and when they can expect the things they need in life. What should you feed your puppy You should feed your puppy the same food they had at the breeders because an abrupt change in diet almost always leads to stomach upset. Complete and balanced means it has everything a puppy needs, and in the right quantities. So seek out this kind of wording and check the internet for other owners reviews. Puppies need to eat a lot because their rate of growth is very high. For puppies up to 12 weeks, you should divide their daily requirement into 4 portions, for puppies 12 to 26 weeks, feed them 3 times per day and from 26 weeks on feed them twice per day. You should also aim to feed them as close as you can to the same times every day and evenly spaced throughout the day. This will help their body clocks fall into a pattern and will help your house training immensely because they then potty the same times every day. For example: 8 to 12 weeks old, 4 times a day at AM, AM, PM and PM 12 to 26 weeks old, 3 times a day at AM, PM and PM 26 weeks old and ongoing, 2 times a day at and Obviously you can adjust these times to take into account when you get out of bed and to fit around your life. Also… The first few nights have the crate or exercise pen your puppy sleeps in placed in your bedroom. One night move the crate next to the bedroom door. The next night move it outside the door, but leave the door open so they can still see you. The next night further into the hallway. Finally to their eventual resting place. They might take to sleeping on their own OK, they might whine and cry. NEVER go to them to comfort them if they cry, you must only get up to take them to potty and then silently and without fuss put them back into the crate. Rewarding silence and ignoring noise is the only way they will eventually learn to be quiet at night themselves. Any time you cannot closely supervise them, you have to confine them, either in their crate, an exercise pen or a puppy proofed room secured with a barrier across the doorway. The point of confining them as a puppy is so they can enjoy all the freedom in the world once they are an adult. By confining them with treat dispensing chew toys they get rewarded for chewing the right things and develop a chew toy obsession. Confine them now, they form a good chew toy obsession and have no chance of developing bad chewing habits. Then once they are over their adolescent chewing stage you slowly open up the house to them and eventually they can have free roam and be completely trusted. A little sacrifice when young for a better life later. And a second hugely important reason for confining your puppy when you cannot supervise them is for speedier house training. In fact if you read my comments from earlier, you will see you start the very first moment you finish the journey home. In essence, house training is about creating good habits while avoiding bad ones and for the speediest success you want to start immediately. Wherever your puppy is able to potty has the chance of becoming their favored toilet spot for many weeks or months to come. So you want to prevent them pottying inside, and encourage them to potty outside. The main ingredients of a successful house training program are preventing mistakes and praising heavily for doing the right thing. Achieving this is all about schedules, supervision and confinement. Now, your puppy will need to potty anywhere from every 15 to 45 minutes. So to start with, take them outside every 30 minutes and adjust this schedule to suit their natural rhythm. You must also take them outside immediately after they wake up from any sleep, after any eating or drinking, after play and after any heightened excitement. These are times that often lead to a puppy needing to potty so take them outside at these times and you will avoid many mistakes while taking advantage of predictable opportunities to praise them for doing the right thing. In the first week or so, you will likely find your puppy almost instantaneously leaks with little warning. Simply do your best to take them out to potty extremely often so they go in the right place as often as possible. And confine them to a single enclosed room or in an exercise pen for the first week or so to protect your carpets. Crate training goes hand in hand with house training, being one of the best tools to help speed up the process. Therefore, you want to start crate training very early on, after just a few days of getting puppy home, and I personally aim for 9 weeks old to start. I prefer to wait a week or so to avoid them pottying in the crate as much as possible, doing the most I can to preserve their instinct not to soil where they sleep, the instinct that helps most when using a crate for house training. But by all means sleep them in their crate at night if you wish and I do. For more information on crate training your puppy and using it for house training purposes, please see the links below:. Non-slip bottom dog dishes Puppies naturally move their dish around as they are eating, especially if the dish has a flat bottom that easily pushes around the floor. We have found that dishes with a non-slip bottom can help so that your puppy is not chasing around his food dish. Make sure that it is large enough. And since dogs grow fast, that means they will likely grow to that size within a year to a year and a half. Almost all dogs we train eat between 4 -6 cups of dog food a day. So, make sure that your dish is large enough to accommodate this many cups. Water dish It is vitally important that your puppy have access to clean water for drinking. With the puppies we raise, we have found that it can be challenging to keep a small water dish full, so we prefer to use these 2-gallon water dishes. They are easy to fill and allow us to only have to fill them a couple times a week instead of several times a day. We suggest that you introduce a lead to your puppy as they start to grow in confidence and walk further from you when outside. There are two great reasons to do this early on. First it teaches your puppy how to handle the pressure of not being able to go wherever they want whenever they want. And it keeps your puppy from developing a habit of running away from you. A Flexi-lead works especially well if you want to give your puppy a little more freedom to go do his potty business but still keep control. Toys Puppies need toys. If you do not give them toys that they CAN chew and play with, they will chew on your sofa leg, or a book or a blanket or anything else they can find. So, purchase some good durable puppy chew toys. But watch your pup carefully. As they get older and stronger, they will be able to rip apart cloth toys and ingest them. Or they will chew rubber toys into small pieces and eat them. When your pup gets strong enough to destroy toys, it is time to take away the puppy toys and give them only dog toys designed for older , larger dogs or quality rawhides that they can chew that will not cause digestive problems. Stay away from rope toys. Many puppies have managed to ingest strings and ropes requiring surgery to remove them. Puppy-sized bumper If your plan is for your Labrador puppy to become a hunting or competition dog, you should have a puppy sized bumper. Learn more about teaching your puppy to fetch in this post. Barriers I recommend that you section off a small portion of your home and not let your puppy have full run of the entire house. Learn more about housebreaking your Lab puppy in this post. To section off a part, it can be helpful to have some child-gates available or an area of your home that you can close doors. This means that you need to show your puppy where the boundaries are and what is and is not allowed. To do this, you will need a few more tools. This is often when we see dogs that are running away from their owners, playing keep-a-way when retrieving and just basically being naughty. A lot of this could be avoided with the use of a check cord. Yes, a check cord can be cumbersome and often a pain to use, but it only takes one or two times of your puppy running away from you to make it worth it. Put a check cord on your puppy and allow them to drag it around with them. This alone is a great lesson for a dog. Dragging the weight is a type of pressure that they will need to learn to deal with. Occasionally, step on the rope and allow your dog to feel the pressure of being stopped and controlled. These sound like such minor things, but you would be surprised how much more well-adjusted your puppy will be just from learning these minor lessons. Chain or prong collar As your puppy gets stronger, it will get more and more difficult to control your puppy with a lead just hooked up to a nylon collar. As you notice that your puppy is getting harder to control, is pulling you around or dragging you down the street, you need to move to a chain or prong collar. Actually, it would be best if you changed to a chain or prong collar long before this becomes an issue. Remember, it is always easier to fix problems when they are small rather than waiting for them to become huge problems. Larger bumpers for retrieving dogs As your dog gets larger, you will want to move away from the puppy bumper and start using regular sized retrieving bumpers. We prefer to use plastic or rubber bumpers since they do not get as dirty or smelly as the canvas ones. They also last a lot longer and can be used for both water and land retrieves. Learn all about the different bumpers used for training hunting dogs here. Orange is a color that is difficult for retrievers to see, so that color should not be used for young dogs that are just learning about retrieving and hunting. Save the orange ones for advanced dogs working on blind retrieves. Final thoughts on What do I need to buy for a Lab puppy? There are many things that you will need for your new puppy both now and in the future. Take some time to prepare before you bring your puppy home so that you will avoid buying things on impulse that you may or may not need. If you are planning on using your puppy as a hunting or competition dog, check out 6 vital tools every gun dog trainer needs. You can email me at ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time happy retrieving. What do I need to buy for a Lab puppy? Vet bedding fleece on a roll is ideal puppy bedding. You can line both his bed and his car crate with this. Buy several pieces so that you can pop one in the washing machine when it gets dirty or if he has an accident. There are lots of lovely beds you can get to go around the house, but in those first days veterinary bedding is an essential alternative to keep his crate cosy and clean. Puppy Toys For Labradors Puppy toys need to be sturdy. Many puppies destroy soft toys quite quickly though they are so adorable, you may not be able to resist buying one or two. Kongs and rope toys are very tough and seem to survive the onslaught of puppy teeth. A Radio If you intend your puppy to sleep alone in the kitchen from the first night, you may find it helpful to leave a radio next to his crate. Just a simple, cheap Portable Radio with the volume turned down low can serve the same role as some human company. It just helps him feel less along during those first few nights when he may be feeling very homesick. Puppy Harness There is no rush for this, but once your puppy is too heavy to carry, and going out and about on the ground, he needs some kind of safety restraint. These days I usually recommend a harness as they avoid pulling on the puppies neck. The kind where the lead attaches at the front and on the back are ideal. You can find an expert review of the big brands of harnesses, from a professional trainer here. When he is older and has learned to walk next to you, you can buy him a collar. To let your puppy know when he has done something you like. It is a really useful tool to help you teach your puppy to be quiet, and to learn simple skills. It will make training your puppy much quicker, easier and a lot more fun. Getting a recall to whistle established at an early age gets your puppy training off to a great start. I recommend the Acme Dog Whistle. There is plenty of information on the use and choice of dog whistles in this article: Should you buy a dog whistle .It will help to get you off to a great start with your new puppy. The crate which we suggest is foldable which makes it extra convenient. Dogs are naturally den animals and a crate provides them with a place where they can relax and feel safe. Crate training and choosing the right size Crate training makes toilet training a million times easier, and keeps your puppy safe at night whilst the family is asleep. The best puppy crate is one which is big enough for them to stand up, stretch out, turn around and lie down in. But no bigger. Or by buying an adult sized crate which comes with a divider, to allow you to provide the correct amount of space for your growing puppy. Bedding You will of course also need bedding to line the crate. This fake fleecy fur bedding comes in a roll and you can either buy a piece to fit your crate or cut to it to size yourself. For puppies, you should avoid any dog bed with a fancy liner and a stuffed or padded interior. Your pup will probably rip it open and eat the contents in no time. Check out our indestructible dog bed article for some great inspiration. Food is obviously the most important item on your new puppy supplies list. Puppy Food To start with, your new pup will need to eat three to four times a day. Having a supply of the new brand ready will allow you to make this changeover from the old food to the new, before the old runs out. The best puppy food is one which is low in carbohydrates and high in protein. Puppy Bowls Next up on the new puppy supplies list are their food and water bowls. Most of them are dishwasher safe, and cheap to buy. You can have a couple in the cupboard, making it easy to keep the food bowl shiny and clean between meals. The downside of the usual stainless steel food bowls is that they can tip over, not to mention the horrendous noise as the puppy chases them around the kitchen! To avoid these disadvantages, find a non-slip version with a steadier bottom. Those designed for use by dogs and puppies. Ceramic water bowls help to keep the water cool as well. The best part of getting a new pup is the fun you have playing with them — and for this puppy toys are real Labrador essentials! Between 12 to 24 weeks your pup will be losing their baby teeth and their new teeth will be emerging. This is a very uncomfortable time for you pup — the reason why they chew everything in their path. You can protect your shoes, furniture , and even cables, by making sure that they have plenty of toys to chew instead. Puppy toys are fun to buy, and there are a lot of choices out there. We have a couple of real firm favorites when it comes to puppy toys. Puppy kongs are brilliant. Kongs bounce around and can be played with if your pup feels like it, or picked up and carried around. Just make sure that the rope is thick and not easily shredded. Be sure to avoid small toys, or those with small parts that can be chewed off, that your pup can swallow. They can cause choking or blockages in their bellies. Besides being too small, the toys in your puppy supplies should also not be too big. They should be able to get their mouths around their toys easily. Having to stretch to chew on or pick up toys or bones that are too big can injure their growing jaws. Collar and leash You should introduce your pup to their dog collar and leash as soon as possible. They can get used to wearing their collar in the house from a young age, before going outside for walks. It has a convenient quick release buckle as well as an ID tag. Dog harnesses, instead of collars, are becoming increasingly popular among dog lovers. Always use a harness for a dog that has problems breathing. It also has a thick padded handle to protect your hands. A pup might still squirm and try to get away. Then you can start brushing again. Letting your pup inspect and sniff the brush also helps them to get over any fear. This specialised pet brush has fine bent wires that gets rid of mats without hurting. Amongst the most useful Lab puppy essentials on our new puppy checklist are puppy barriers. There are a few options for creating barriers, to keep your pup safe and give them some space when they need a break. The most popular puppy barriers are actually baby gates. They make fantastic human toddler and puppy barriers — you might even use them to separate the two. They come in a few different sizes, and fit into most doorways or hallway spaces. The human members of the family can easily come and go, whilst keeping the puppy securely contained. You can start using it with your pup from a very young age. Combined with treats, they let the pup know exactly when you approve of their behavior. Their use is rapidly increasing in popularity. Using positive reinforcement training and working with a clicker will help you to both train your puppy, and to form a stronger bond and better relationship together as he grows. Almost last but not least on our new puppy checklist is puppy insurance. There have been astonishing advances in the veterinary treatments that are available for our pets today. Most things you can be treated for, your dog can be treated for too. Open heart surgery, complex hip operations, and advanced cancer treatments are all available to dogs. Read The Small Print And do read the small print before you buy, some of the cheaper policies will dump you at the end of the year if your dog gets a long term condition. I did not read the small print and this happened to me. So take care to choose a policy that keeps on renewing as long as you keep on paying. Many dog owners would recommend the final Labrador puppy accessory on our new puppy checklist as the most essential. Covering everything from the first days at home, through crate training, potty training, dealing with teething and much more. Do you have any tips for our readers? Are there other items that you wish you had bought before your Labrador puppy arrived and would add to our puppy supplies list? Why not share your thoughts in the comments section below. However, we selected them for inclusion independently, and all of the views expressed in this article are our own. However, a healthy six-month-old labrador will grow significantly in size. Some of them can weigh up to 50 pounds. For a more balanced diet at six months, you can shift from feeding your puppy three smaller meals per day to two meals a day. To counteract this, you can drop the amount of food and gradually increase it. Setting Your Lab Puppy Up for Successful Potty Training Training an animal to control their bladders until you get outside is no different than potty-training for toddlers. In other words, crate training speeds up the potty-training process for your pet. Effective crate training depends on two things: Praising and rewarding your puppy for relieving itself outside. They come to understand this as a desirable behavior. Preventing your puppy from going to the toilet within the home. So, why is using a crate to train your puppy to go outside so effective? Initially, this should be every hour or so. As labs grow older, you can reduce the frequency as they learn to hold and release independently. Step 2: House Training a Lab Puppy Housetraining or potty-training small labs can be, well, frustrating. As a pet owner, there are simple ways to train your puppy to understand ideal behavior quickly. Instead, they simply forget that they should control it. This helps avoid any issues early on. Keep small labrador puppies off the carpet. How to Feed Your Dog for Optimal Growth Feeding your labrador puppy a balanced diet could be an entire guide all on its own. It can feel overwhelming because you do have many options when it comes to feeding your dog. For example, if you work from home, it would be easy to feed your dog homemade dog food. Similarly, you might work a and yet want to reap the health-related benefits of a raw diet. Make sure to speak to your vet first. You do have choices for what to feed your puppy and you can mix and match these. Popular feeding options for any animal include kibble, wet food, raw food, and home-cooked food. Remember, a puppy is still growing, and they need a complete profile of nutrients and minerals to support their development. There are many commercial brands of dry food or kibble to choose from and you can adjust what you buy based on the ingredients. Do your research and find a brand you trust, with as much bioavailable nutritional content as is helpful. These can harm your puppy. In order to maintain good health and prevent simple ailments, your puppy can also benefit from taking a supplement. Some families choose to mix scraps or raw food with kibble to provide moisture and decrease the amount of food versus the calories consumed. Any veterinarian will tell you that a hard and fast rule is not necessarily the type of food but the amount. Obesity is a condition that can lead to many health issues for this breed. Over-exertion, especially for a puppy, is possible. This includes activities like playing fetch or tug and release. However, breeds that worked as a hunting companion for humans love to be active. Again, this goes back to the strengths of the breed. Keeping up with your puppy could be a task-and-a-half, so in the first months of life, you should be keeping them in your backyard or playing with them at home. As they become house trained and get all their vaccinations, you can turn walks into light jogs or runs if you want. In the long-term, exercise will help keep dogs healthy and disease-free. However, early dog training can eliminate common problems with puppy temperament and help make sure that your fur friend is always as friendly and happy as possible through the years. Puppy socialization simply means making your puppy open to and familiar with new experiences. You want to provide stimulation and encounters with experiences that they will probably face as adults. The window of opportunity to make sure your puppy is always a happy and friendly pooch closes around 14 weeks. Pre-Vaccination Lab Puppy Socialization Any veterinarian will tell you that a puppy is all done with their vaccinations after 12 weeks of age. The main point is to keep your puppy away from other dogs who may not yet be vaccinated or the excrement and markings of other animals that could carry data diseases. You can head to an off-leash dog park to allow them to explore and meet other fur friends. You can also take them beyond your backyard to the countryside to enable them to swim or set up obstacle courses and play with them. Another thing that people forget about is spaying or neutering their dogs. Spaying or neutering your dog could help with behavioral issues and can also reduce the onset of certain health conditions. At the same time, spaying or neutering a puppy too early may also lead to health issues. For many people, this is a worthwhile and even enjoyable trade-off. A happy, sociable dog is always the result of consistent training. Training your dog is a significant aspect of their early years. The different stages include: Get it — Using positive reinforcement, trainers will help your dog carry out actions without commands. Teach it — This stage harnesses the progress you made in the previous stages. Your dog now knows the word and the action that goes with it. Proof it — Proofing is where many people get stuck. Your dog will learn to listen and obey commands at this stage even when they are engaged in other things. Maintain it — Consistently using the techniques you learned to keep your dog following the same desirable behavior. All breeds of dogs respond best when you train them. Every labrador retriever relies on their human taking control and showing them how to respond in any situation. You can be sure that if you follow these tips that you will be taking proper care of your new puppy and will be able to make sure that your puppy will live a long and healthy life. Share on. Lab Puppy proof the house. Things like dangerous chemicals, solvents, cleaning solutions, paint and other dangerous substances need to be secured. As well you will need to look at cords hanging and things falling on the puppy if they accidentally pull something down. Stairs need to be gated off until your puppy is older and learns how to walk down them without trying to jump off. Purchase a quality dog food. It never ceases to amaze me how some people end up feeding a low quality food to their dog, or something experimental like a vegan food, or even feed them a so called raw diet and not balance their nutrition requirements. The single biggest thing you can do for your dog is feed them a proven diet with nutrients delivered in the proper ratios. A second thing to consider is where your food is made and how you can be notified if there is a recall. At the time of writing this there is a popular food under recall for toxic levels of vitamin D. There have been numerous cases of deaths related to this and yet the company claims they independently test their ingredients. The food we recommend is such because we have years and years of experience over 13 years with it using it ourselves and recommending it to those who adopt our puppies. We have actually had so few health issues with our puppies and aging adults eating this food that we have increased our warranty to 4 years and include all major organs. Bottom line, feed a high quality proven food from the day you bring your puppy home, not necessarily one with the most protein. We will provide you with feeding suggestions once you place your reservation for a puppy and a proven puppy food to feed them. Visit the pet store for the required equipment. You are going to need a large dog crate with a divider so in the beginning your puppy will have just enough room to sleep. Crate training is the best way to protect your puppy while making them safe when unsupervised. As your dog grows you can remove the divider so it has room to lay down and not touch the walls. We stock the most popular toys and cover all the different types you will need so that you can get them when you pick up your puppy. They come with explanations of how the different types are used to both stimulate, calm and play with your puppy, how to cycle them, teething, and more. A stainless steel water and food bowl is also another good choice. I would wait on getting a collar so that you can fit them properly. We have inexpensive training leashes that adjust to any size for you to purchase when you are here. Have a family meeting to establish expectations. Every human in the home will need to follow the same rules consistently so that your puppy understands what is expected of them. Schedule an appointment with a good Veterinarian. Not all Veterinarians are of equal experience. We have heard some pretty crazy stories, so we suggest you get some referrals of some long term relationships of people you trust for a Vet. You should take your puppy to the vet a couple of days after you get home so it has time to get use to its new surroundings before being taken somewhere. Prepare fore the Drive Home 1. Your puppy can last about 2 or 3 hours without a potty break. We normally feed your puppy early in the morning on the day of pick up so that it has time to go potty before the drive home. Our recommendation is to give your puppy some water every 3 hours and then let them have a pee. This could also go along with letting them play or explore outside a bit. When you stop, find an unused grassy space to potty on. Arriving at home with your puppy 1. First quickly bring them to the spot you want them to potty. This is the beginning of your dog being house trained. They will likely have to go right after you get out of the car. So when you stop, give them a drink in the area you want them to relieve themselves in. Wait until they go and then you can take them into the home. Treat your puppy like a puppy. It is breakable and will be a puppy for about a year. Things like playing with larger dogs and such should be carefully supervised. Constant supervision. Your new puppy needs to be constantly supervised until they can be trusted and you know that they understand the rules. Constant supervision means either you or someone watching them, they are in their crate the crate is the supervisor , or that they are in a section of the home baby-gated off or also an outside run with a kennel and a cement floor so they cannot dig under the fence yes they will dig. After a potty bring your puppy to the room with their crate. Introducing them to their crate perhaps with a few pieces of kibble in it will show them where their safe space is. This is also where they need to be comfortable enough to self-calm and fall asleep. If you have another dog, first introduce them outside on neutral territory. Bringing a new puppy and simply coming straight into the home could have one of three effects. The first being that both dogs might be ok with it. Second is that the older dog has an issue with a new strange animal in its territory. This would result in your older dog being defensive, maybe even protective or possibly anxious and scared and once this has happened it is out there. Undoing this type of trauma could take days or weeks. Relax and let them get to know each other and all will be good. After some get familiar time begin training your puppy without distractions using Positive Reinforcement training methods. We suggest that everyone participates in some training classes either in a group format or private. The important thing to understand is that you are training you to train your puppy. Your puppy will also lose any training it has done if it is not reinforced by everyone in the home. Other resources are 80 Puppy Training tips that you can learn as well as an excellent site with video called Puppy Trained Right. We have a discount code available for those who are taking home one of our puppies. This will allow them time to eliminate most of their food and urine and will give a better chance of sleeping the night without having to go potty. Prepare their crate in a quiet, dark spot. Make it a sleepy place, place a blanket over the top and down 3 sides to block draft and to make it den-like. Some mild exercise or training just before bed. Just like a human, you want them to be tired before bed. So for example if you let them sleep from 9 to 11 pm they may not need to go down at 11 to sleep. The last while before bed try to stimulate them mentally and physically so that they are ready to turn in. This can be training sessions, a walk, a play session or even fetch in the house. One final potty around 11 pm. After you prepare them for sleep take them out one more time and give them ample time to relieve themselves. Bring them back in, let them settle in the crate, put an item of clothing in there that smells like you for them to snuggle on. The quicker they learn the new pack and learn to settle in the crate the better and that happens by not reminding them of their old litter. If they smell their old litter they will whine for them to find them. Settling in their crate. Once your puppy goes down you will want to be teaching your puppy that the time in their crate is for sleep, they are safe in there, and that if they bark or whine they cannot summon you to save them. So, what if they really have to go? This is something you will have to figure out. It may be possible that they must go outside to relieve themselves, but, they may also just want you to hold or feed them. If they go, just put them back in their crate to settle and go back to sleep. You will know within reason that next time they are just lonely. This normally stops after about 2 or 3 days. Whoosh them out to their pee spot. Pick them up and carry them quickly to their pee spot. When they go reward them with praise and say the potty word that you use. Feed, and then woosh them out again to their pee spot. Puppies often need to poop right after they eat, or sometimes while they are eating. Some exercise, training and mental stimulation. After waking up and eating they will be ready for a walk and some training. Setting them up for their first full day in the home. Plan their day out so that there is a balance of play, training, napping, eating, and potty. In the beginning your puppy will need about 20 hours or so of sleep a day so be sure it is getting enough. If your puppy gets nippy they may be trying to tell you they are tired and want to be left alone in their crate. Every opportunity that your puppy presents in the form of nipping is a training opportunity to teach bite inhibition. Coming home to your puppy after work. Learning how to greet them. If you work full time it is important to understand that a young puppy cannot hold their bladders for more than 3 or 4 hours. If you work full time you will need someone to watch them or at least visit them once or twice during the shift to let them out, drink and play. When you arrive home this is the time to teach them manners. Most dogs will be excited and will jump on you to greet you. Be sure you teach them how you want them to greet people. We will teach a dog to sit in front of us before it gets any attention. No attention means no talking, no eye contact and no touching. Will they need to relieve themselves? If they have been in a crate you will likely need to let them go potty, a walk or some fetching would also be good at this time because they likely have some energy to expend. Training pre or post feeding? There are also some Labs who are not food motivated. So if your Lab is not responding well to training after they are fed, you may want to train them before eating so the hunger is on your side. Socialization with people other than your family, and animals other than those in the home. While socializing you want to expose them to many people while not overwhelming them. To start we recommend 1 new person each morning and one new place each night. After you can see that your puppy is not overwhelmed you may decide to increase the frequency of exposure to new places, animals and things. Prepare for night time routine. Get your new furball ready for bed time as outlined above. Setting your puppy up for success. Avoiding dog parks and strange dogs. Until your puppy is fully vaccinated around 14 weeks old they are vulnerable to other diseases by unknown dogs. By all means, if you know someone who has a dog and you can verify that their dog is up to date on all shots such as Parvo, Rabies, Leptospirosis, Kennel Cough, Distemper, Hepatitis, Corona and Para Influenza, 2. Get into a reputable training class or private training with a reputable trainer. Training classes are mainly to train you. Ask around in your area for a recommendation of a good trainer at a reasonable price. Gentle, regular exposure to everyone and everything. For example, while you are exposing them to people you will need to expose them to female babies, toddlers, pre teens, teenagers, young adult women, middle aged women and older women. You will need to include women with glasses, hats, soft voices, loud voices, etc…. Adjust their food as they grow and as their activity level increases or decreases. If for example your dog is much more active or much less active then the recommended feeding amount will not be correct. Instead use your eyes. You might have to adjust the food amounts up or down as your Labrador gets more or less activity. Positive Reinforcement training by everyone in the pack. When you get into your car and you to go somewhere, you tell your gps where you want to go. Dogs are the same way. Instead teach your dog what you want it to do. Instead of scolding, simply withdraw your attention. This is enough punishment. Then, get back to showing your dog what you want it to do. If your puppy is not eating or has a loose bowel movement. Not eating much is pretty common when a puppy goes to its new home, however if it stops drinking then that would be cause for an immediate vet visit. In a new home your puppy might not be comfortable for a couple of days and eating might be just grazing. This is ok as long as it is drinking and seems to be playful. Loose bowel movements in the beginning could be due to nerves or your puppy could also have a parasite. At this young age puppies put everything, and I mean everything into their mouths. It is quite common for puppies to get loose stool from a parasite. This can be addressed easily if you take a stool sample into your Vet for analysis. What is a puppy emergency that requires a visit to the vet? Our rules for an emergency trip to the vet are: Uncontrollable bleeding, puppy not breathing properly, broken bone, puppy is not drinking and appears lethargic. If any of these present themselves you may want to consider getting help right away. Other things can normally wait until the next morning to be addressed because they are not critical. Depending on where you live however you may have a vet that is open 24 hours and even on the weekends. So this is a start for you to think about when you take a Labrador Puppy home. Information contained on this page is provided by an independent third-party content provider. 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