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How does it feel to be a new puppy parent? You must be chuffed. Take a look at these first few articles. All the ingredients you need for a happy home. But for now, beside your bed is the best place for your puppy to sleep — it will help them feel safe. Puppies like their crates rather cave-like; we suggest covering it with a blanket to block out light, but keep the front open so that they can see outwards. Make sure to make it snug inside with something like a vet bed or a blanket, or why not take it up a notch with a heat pad or hot water bottle to recreate the feeling of their mother. Nothing feels more comforting than that. Before you head to bed, take your puppy out for one last round of loo-going. Set your bedtime at a later time too — midnight sounds about right. Come back calmly, and place your puppy in the crate and turn out the light. Stuff you should know about Sleep Training your Labrador Your puppy will wake up several times in the night and will need the bathroom at least once! Be prepared for not-so-deep sleeps and tired mornings — just for the first few weeks. Having them sleep next to you is only temporary. Consistency is key! As for you, full nights of sleep will start getting closer and closer. Alone Training How can I teach my Labrador puppy to be ok on their own? Start by feeding your puppy in their crate during meal times. If they seem worried by you leaving, stay in view, and just pop right outside their confinement area. Keep it short and sweet: No need to stay away for long, 60 seconds tops will do for now. Repeat: Do this at least once a day to make progress go steady and smoothly. Socialization Exercises To Do this week Letting your Labrador puppy explore the yard Besides the gnomes and questionable yard furniture you may have, letting your puppy explore your own yard is a great and safe way to start showing them the sounds, lights and wonders of the outside world. Exploring different surfaces exercise Make sure that the surfaces you use are safe — nothing too crazy just yet. Gather surfaces such as An oven tray with a small layer of water A piece of astro turf A carpet tile A large piece of tin foil, cardboard or something crinkly PRO TIP: Set up for this exercise in the room your puppy spends most of their time in — it will help them to feel safe and confident. Pop the surfaces out safely on the floor and allow your puppy to investigate them. Nobody has ever enjoyed walking on those. Remember to be patient! Lucky for you — teaching them their name is easy peasy. Say their name in a happy jolly tone and reward with a treat. Repeat five times, 5 and take a break. Practice this 2 or 3 times a day so they get the hang of it. Teach your puppy to sit Teaching your puppy how to sit is a popular one. The first two are far more common though. Keep using this word when they do the right thing, and then follow it up with a food reward. In puppy logic, stinky means yummy. How to do it Start at home; where there are no distractions. Just make sure to shut off Gogglebox in the background. Recall — How to teach our Labrador puppy to come back when called Your puppy already knows their name at this point, so this should be a walk in the park. How to do it Treats and a cheerful voice will be what works here. Do these exercises before meal times so your puppy is more motivated. Practice this 5 times a day and in 3 different places in your house and yard to get them used to coming to you in all settings. How to do it Show your puppy that you have their favorite toy, and start to get them excited about it. When they show interest, throw it a little bit away from you. They will likely follow it and pick it up. If they do, encourage them back to you with your voice, so remember to sound happy! Swap the toy for a treat or another toy and do the process again. Repeat this about 5 times. Instead create more distance and excitement sounds to get them to come to you — spaniels like to show off, so they will likely want to parade what they have! Always swap the toy for something when they have it, this could be a treat or another toy. Resource guarding occurs when we force puppies to give up items or snatch things out of their mouths. For breeds like Labradors who are designed to want to hold things in their mouths, this is pretty important! Resource guarding is when a dog protects a resource from being taken by someone else — dog or human. For some reason, there is a solid list of things puppies find irresistible: Socks. You should take your puppy outdoors and let him exercise his socialization potential at a young age. Visiting friends and family is one way to go about it. You can also spot a dog park and carry him there. Remember that your pet is still learning to follow directions and walk with you. You cannot expect him to cover long distances. The best way to avoid this is to take them far enough from the house and ensure they have a positive outside experience. It is worth noting that you should do this as often as you can, preferably daily. Start Potty Training It would be best to start potty training your Lab puppy the first day you bring him home. Start by showing your pup where you want him to potty, such as a sectioned-off area of your yard or garden. A good idea is to cordon off a small area and add some bark chippings. Next, you need a potty training schedule such as first thing in the morning, after mealtimes and play, and hourly for young pups. Many owners use dog crates to help with house training. I have a step-by-step guide on Labrador puppy crate training where you can learn tons more. Discourage Biting If you follow my blog, you know I am against punishment-oriented training. If you train your dog young enough to avoid harsh bites, you will not need punishment-driven discipline strategies. In any case, using physical force or yelling at your pup will only instill fear and distrust and can cause aggression in your dog. You can also check out my article, How to Discipline a Labrador , for greater insight into this topic. Instead, you can wait until your Labrador bites during a positive activity and then discontinue it. It will anchor the consequence better. Follow up using positive reinforcement by rewarding the correct behavior with a treat. Your Labrador will quickly learn that displaying good behavior reaps nice things. Puppies need to learn their bite inhibition soft-mouth by continuing the excellent work their mother and siblings taught them. Learn Bite Inhibition Training! Instill Patience You must use your best judgment when training your dog to be patient. Generally speaking, your Labrador will be mature enough to learn self-control by the tenth week. You can use a clicker or a whistle to teach your puppy to assume the natural heel position. Chances are, at first, your Labrador will try to change his pace to be behind you because of the force of habit. Walking in areas familiar to your dog will eliminate this problem. While you previously trained him to assume a heel position, you can also teach him these techniques. You may notice that your puppy can tell your words apart by the thirteenth week. So by the time he is four months old, you can use the position cues and positive reinforcement to get your dog to follow. These included whistling, clapping, or saying a specific word to indicate that your Labrador is doing a good job, typically followed by a well-deserved treat. Now is the time to see whether the anchors work! Where you previously whistled when your Lab ran towards you, now you must whistle, so he begins his run. This is the start of his Labrador recall training. Teaching good recall is an ongoing process. My dog was around 12 months old before seeing a noticeable improvement in her recall. Please avoid forcing the dog, as that only introduces confusion. Build Comfort With Crowds — Work on Socialization You have trained your Labrador to acknowledge close friends and family in the past few weeks. While this enables the puppy to be more social when you have visitors, a grown dog must learn to walk outdoors without acting out. This transition must be gradual, and try to keep experiences positive. Whether it is a cuddle, a pat, attention, or something tasty, you must teach your pup target training , for example, to touch a target with a specific part of his body. Remember that your Lab may end up biting or clawing to communicate if you do not teach him more acceptable communication methods. Here, I recommend teaching your Labrador to touch your hand with his nose. Ultimately, this is an excellent replacement for bites! Hand targeting is fun to teach, helps your pup build trust, and gets him using his brain! You have laid a strong foundation of discipline and positive reinforcement, making it easier to train your dog to follow more complex commands. In these weeks, you will introduce him to assuming different positions, obeying your commands as he moves away from you, and reacting to more nuanced anchors. Remember, 4-month-old Labrador puppies have a short attention span, so avoid long training sessions. Teach the Sit and Stay Teaching your Lab to sit and stay is a useful command for him to learn. Train Your Dog to Fetch If you have taken your Labrador to public parks and he has seen other dogs play fetch, it will be easier to teach him to retrieve whatever you throw. Your Labrador may not bring the toy back to you for a second round, but he will soon get the idea of retrieving it. You can gradually turn it into a game of fetch over the next few weeks and reward your doggo with high-value training treats. Continue Potty Training In the fourth month of Labrador training, you will continue potty training with a degree of independence. Continue with a good schedule and sync your walks with his natural cycle to align with the times he needs to go. You can use it to control your Labrador and later to test his ability to execute a command off-leash. A harness is also a good idea and is used for outdoor training and walks. Many owners will opt for a rear-attaching harness. Related: Harness vs. Collar for Lab Puppy: Which is Best? How to Train a 5-Month-Old Lab Puppy A five-month-old Labrador puppy is ready to be tested for his general obedience and the ability to deal with distractions, whether other dogs, people, or other animals such as squirrels or birds. Earlier, I mentioned that you could not expect an eight-week-old puppy to delay gratification. Your puppy can deal with distractions at five months old if you introduce them slowly. You must be prepared for your dog to run ahead of you now! However, suppose you have developed a solid relationship with your pup and worked on his training. In that case, he will stay within a reasonable distance, remaining by your side and showing loyalty. Once your Lab puppy has reached his 6-month milestone, it also marks the point where you introduce him to advanced obedience training. The good news is that all the training you have previously given will make it easier for your dog to follow your lead. Conclude Potty Training Your dog has had months to learn how to communicate his need to go potty. He has also likely refined the patience to hold it instead of relieving himself on the floor. Therefore, you can communicate your disappointment with your body language if your dog makes a mess. Avoid physical punishment and even verbal chastising as it impacts your dog negatively. All dogs can still have the odd accident up to 12 months old. Moreover, you must be prepared for your dog to relieve himself indoors if he is excited or frightened, known as either excitement or submissive urination. Increase Exercise Now that your Lab puppy is six months old, you can increase his exercise to thirty minutes twice daily. Energy levels, especially for larger breed dogs, escalate during this time. While the average exercise for a pup before this is generally five minutes of exercise per month of age, twice a day, a six-month-old Labrador can be out for one hour if you split his walks into thirty minutes a day. To train your 6-month-old Lab puppy, start with two commands with the most practical use. From six months onwards, until your Labrador is a well-trained adult, you can teach the following commands or tricks in any order. How to Train a 7-Month-Old Labrador As your Lab progresses to seven months old, a lot of the previous training needs to be kept consistent as you gradually teach him to comprehend more commands. Maybe there is a trespasser, and you want your dog to scare them away. You will need to continue training your dog to hold things or release them on command, but you can also proceed to add distance and even more background distractions. Ironically, you need to teach him to bark on command before learning to be silent on cue. Over this month, he will learn to associate the respective commands with barking and silence. This is quite tricky, but your Lab will eventually get there if you practice and stay consistent. The eighth month is ideal for training your Lab to go to different places upon hearing the command word. Either way, do not overload him with place commands, and stick to no more than two per month. Or you can use the ninth month to teach a cool party trick! After a week, you can remove the treat and teach your Lab to follow your finger. Of course, you will still need to reward him after he follows the command. By the third week, you can cue your doggo to spin and see if he does so without your finger guiding him in a circular motion. It might take an extra week or two, but I recommend this as an addition in the ninth month because it allows you to continue training your pet to learn previous commands better. You can teach him to go to different places, hold or release objects, and fetch toys. You can now progress this further and teach him to roll over on command. Your 1-year-old Labrador only learns to comprehend more at the same pace as he has since the 6-month mark. You should also audit previously taught commands and see any weak associations you can reinforce. How to Train an Month-Old Labrador You will not have to alter your training regimen dramatically if you have trained your Labrador properly from eight weeks onward. If anything, this is the period where you customize his training to your convenience. Now is when your dog must learn to be compatible with your life. From the month mark onwards, you must train your dog to be harmonious with modern adult life within reason. It is sad to see dog owners having to give away their pets because of behavior issues. Such things are avoidable if you train your dog correctly and sufficiently exercise him. It would be best if you simply established authority by having a positive yet commanding presence. Once your dog acknowledges your authority and sees you as a guide, you can merely treat him as a six-month-old, albeit on an accelerated schedule, and train him accordingly. Your job becomes even easier once you have a workable training schedule and stick to your routine. This month-by-month Labrador puppy training schedule will help you successfully train your doggo and turn him into the beloved companion you always desired. Good luck with your training! Related Posts You May Like:. Puppy training development after 6 months It is very tempting to get carried away with puppy training. Your young do is so willing to please and such fun to be around. It is important to go at a happy pace for you both. Positive reinforcement training is the right choice for your puppy because there are no negative consequences to getting something wrong. But you can still both suffer from burnout and frustration if you try to reach the later puppy training stages without totally aceing the earlier developments. Your Puppy Training Schedule This may not be exactly the same for each puppy, especially with retrieving which is more Labrador specific. However, it gives you a rough idea. Constantly changing direction. Stopping frequently for cuddles and rewards. This means I blow the recall whistle whenever the puppy runs towards me, no compulsion, and no whistle unless the recall is already underway. Socialisation: Lots almost daily of outings to different places rural and urban carried Visits to family and friends. Bite inhibition: Discourage hard biting, allow mouthing. Working with food: Learning how to take food gently without snatching or grabbing at the treat pot. I still give the puppy lots of encouragement by running away as soon as I blow the whistle. Socialisation: More socialisation, at least twice a week to busy public places. Bite inhibition: Discourage hard biting, allow gentle mouthing. Retrieving: Encourage chase and pick up retrieve drive. Hand touch: I teach all new puppies to touch my hand with their noses. This is a great foundation for other skills. Recall: Puppy recall continues, reduce my run to a walk, avoid any distractions. Still frequently blow the recall whenever the pup runs towards me of her own free will. Socialisation: From ground level after vaccination. No other leash walking at all Bite inhibition: No biting, gentle mouthing allowed. Retrieving: Continue to build drive. Positions: I introduce three positions — sit, stand, down. What to expect from your 3 month old puppy Most three month old puppies will be sleeping through the night. And will be having less potty training accidents in the house. There are a few potty training problems that arise at this age, and they are all covered in 15 potty training problems solved. Biting is a big shock and a big problem for many new Lab puppy parents so do check out our complete guide to biting , and join the forum for help and support. Help encourage your puppy to stay in their bed while you are eating. I have a pot of dog treats on our kitchen table, and whenever we sit down to a meal, the puppy gets a treat each time she steps into her basket. Just a treat for stepping in there. What to expect from your 4 month old puppy Your 4 month old puppy will be pretty much potty trained, but accidents still happen if they are left alone too long. Biting is usually starting to subside now, and many four month old puppies will be able to mouth at your hand without hurting you. At this point I start to discourage all mouthing. I teach every puppy to let me touch her face or approach her with my hand, food, a leash etc while holding eye contact and not grabbing at me, or at what is in my hand. This is the age at which people often start to push forward with training. Your 4 month old puppy is capable of quite a lot. There is nothing wrong with teaching your puppy different cues and even some tricks. I recommend you still avoid long duration activities at this point as they are a common stumbling point with puppies young enough to have a short attention span. A ten second sit is ample. Add mild distractions Recall: Fade additional cues. Begin to whistle the pup and stand still. Add mild distractions. Clicker train to polish this in more mouthy puppies. No commands are needed for this. Gradual introduction of distractions. Advanced puppy training begins in earnest This is where I start a programme of sporting training with my Labs. You can begin raising your standards and expectations, asking for longer and more complex behaviors. Teaching your puppy to walk to heel nicely for longer distance and past all kinds of distractions and temptations. Or teaching your puppy to sit and stay for longer periods of time, and even while you go out of sight or while other dogs play nearby. What to expect from your six month old puppy Six months is a common time for people to have a lot of questions and to be struggling with a few challenges. This is now a very bouncy, quite powerful and rapidly maturing young dog. And you may need to patch up a few holes in his training or manners. We have a great article for owners of six month old Lab puppies. Print Start training your hunting dog now! Thirteen-week-old puppies are challenging. If you have heard of the terrible twos for toddlers, a three- or four-month-old puppy is very similar. They are still puppies and therefore are still cute, do some fun and hilarious things, but they are also very troublesome. Here is the training for your week-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post six of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Bubba Training and socialization for week-old Labrador puppy Here are the things we worked on this week while training of Bubba. Crate training At this point, I consider Bubba crate trained. We are no longer actively working on crate training her, it is just a natural part of her life. She goes in and out of the crate without issue, is quiet in the crate and sleeps soundly in her crate throughout the night. We put her in the crate around 9 pm and take her out at 6 am. She also spends time in her crate each day between periods of training or play time. Looking for more information on crate training? Housebreaking Housebreaking will be an ongoing process for the next couple months at least. Bubba rarely has accidents, and we know they will become less and less over time and will eventually just stop. Looking for more information on housebreaking? Obedience training your week-old puppy At three-months of age I start formal obedience with our puppies. We started formal obedience with Bubba last week and this will continue for the next several months. The key command I work on first is SIT. While we have already been working on SIT inside the home, moving this command outside and in a more formal setting will challenge Bubba. Formal obedience will be done on leash with a chain collar. In the past, I have enforced SIT with a push down on her bottom. Now, at this age, I will start using my dog training tools and will introduce the use of a heeling stick. Each time I give a correction with the heeling stick I say the command before and after the command. Currently Bubba will sit still for around seconds before getting antsy. Sometimes she gets distracted by her own tail, which is funny. I do some movement with my body to add distraction and firm up her SIT. My movement helps Bubba learn that just because I am moving, that does not mean she can. Over time I will add a lot more distractions, but I add them slowly based on how well Bubba is understanding what I expect of her. But so vital. Getting a good consistent reaction to the HERE command will require a little more maturity. Eventually, we will use an electronic collar to achieve quick responses to our obedience commands. But we want the puppy to be a bit older for before we start with the electronic collar. For now, I must be content with taking Bubba outside on lead and using a long lead for doing fetching and marks. She is starting to understand when I am not happy with her behavior. Luckily, Bubba is very tractable. I have already seen some adjustment in her behavior just from my stern commands and corrections. While I am not a big fan of treat training, I know that it is very effective to get a puppy responsive to the HERE command. I have started working with treats I use little kibbles of her dog food to get a better response from Bubba on HERE outside. Introducing your Labrador puppy to hunting elements We continue to introduce Bubba to various hunting elements. So far, we have introduced her to water and swimming, decoys on land, and a live pigeon. These introductions have all gone well, so this week we added a few more introductions. Introducing your puppy to boat on land There are several ways to hunt ducks and geese. Some hunt from a boat and some hunt from land. We take great care to make sure our dogs are trained to hunt from both. To do this, we start with an introduction to a boat on land. The surface of a boat can be slippery, and many dogs do not like to get into the boat at first. With retrievers this is generally easy to overcome by throwing retrieves from the boat. Bubba jumped into the boat with a little encouragement. She has been well socialized with walking on top of various items and surfaces, so the boat was not a big challenge for her. While Bubba was in the boat, I threw a bumper for her to fetch. When she brought it back to me, I had her jump back in the boat and repeated this a few more times. This is a trained behavior; it is not natural for a retriever to do this. The first step toward teaching your puppy or dog this behavior is to teach HOLD as a command. You can wear a leather glove if you are worried about damaging your hand. Be prepared to have a bit of a fight on your hand. Your puppy will not like this the first few times and will likely resist strongly. After a while your puppy will not fight it so hard and may even willingly SIT and hold your hand. Once your puppy starts getting adult teeth, you will want to stop this training since the teething process is painful and your hand will cause them more pain and will do more harm than good. Increased distance for assistant marks Bubba continues to get assistant marks each day. We have begun to increase the distance but are still limited to the length of our check cord until we can get a consistent response on the HERE command. Final thoughts on training for your week-old Labrador puppy Your week-old retriever is capable of learning quickly. Set boundaries and enforce infractions with a quick correction. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. Training your week-old Labrador puppy? Print The dreaded 3-month-old puppy I really enjoy young puppies. Seven- to week-old puppies can be so much fun and while they can be trouble, it is easy to contain them. But when a puppy turns weeks-old…. Three-month-old puppies start feeling good about themselves. They think they have the world all figured out and they will get into everything and run circles around you, even after being scolded or punished. Here is what you need to know about training your week-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post five of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Bubba at 12 weeks old Training and socialization for week-old Labrador puppy — week five home Bubba should have been named Spunky because she is a handful. She runs around our home with her head and tail high, like she is all that. She pulls our shoes out of the organizer, chews on closet doors and digs and splashes in her water dish. So is the life of a 3-month-old Lab puppy. Patience is required to raise young lab pups. They will give you a run for the money. Even the well-behaved ones. No one escapes the terror of the 3-month-old Lab. So, how can you survive this time. Firm and well-defined boundaries that are enforced endlessly. Now is not the time to give up on training your puppy. It is the time to buckle down and show your puppy that there are rules and boundaries, and they must be obeyed. You puppy can and will learn the rules if you are firm and consistent in your corrections. Whatever you do, do not allow the puppy to do whatever it wants with no corrections. That is not being a good puppy mama or dad and it is really not fair to the dog, because training will require much more pressure and correction when the dog is bigger and stronger. Here are the things we worked on this week for training of Bubba. Crate training Bubba is now completely at home in her crate. She remains in her crate a full 4-hours at a time without accidents, is quiet while in there and walks into her crate on a KENNEL command from feet in front of the crate. Bubba will come to me when called, even when she knows that she is going into the crate. While there are still some consistency issues to work on, Bubba is well crate trained at this point. Looking for more information on crate training? Housebreaking Housebreaking is such a difficult job. You will have periods when the puppy is doing so well that you will think you are done. And then, when you least expect it, your puppy will have an accident right in front of you. Bubba has been good at housebreaking. She has had less than a half-dozen accidents in the house and all of them pee accidents. She has never pooped in the house. So, we thought she was pretty much house broke. Then suddenly, she just up and peed right on the dog bed. Housebreaking is always an ongoing process, and we know that over time the accidents will become less and less. Looking for more information on housebreaking? Obedience training your week-old puppy With any dog training, obedience is key! She will SIT on command about 90 percent of the time. The only time we really have issues is when there is a lot of distractions. That is normal for a puppy of her age, but that does not mean that we just allow her to be disobedient when there are distractions. Rather, we look for distractions and then train through them. This is very important because you do not want your dog to just be obedient when everything is calm. You want, even need, your puppy to be obedient when the everyday distractions happen. HERE command As I have already stated, twelve-week-old puppies are cute, but they can also be little terrors. This is the age when they start to get very independent. With that independence comes the desire to run away from you, run around you, play keep-a-way and just generally terrorize your life. We get lots of calls from owners of puppies this age. They all want to know if we can take their dog now for training instead of at the usual months of age that we usually require for hunting dog training. This is very hard, even for professional trainers. But that is almost always a mistake since Bubba will decide to make a game out of not coming to us. Getting your puppy to come to you There are some techniques to help with this matter. Sometimes this is a good time to start treat-training your dog on HERE. This is a short-term fix that we will not continue for long, but it can sometimes help to get us through the next month or two. Labs are almost always driven by food, so it can help you get a better response to the HERE command. You can also have the dog drag a long check cord. The check cord gives you something to grab onto if the dog tries to make a game of coming to you, but you must be careful since the lead can get caught on something and injure your dog. Remember that each time you say HERE, you need to pull your puppy towards you. You need to associate the HERE command with coming towards you. You need your puppy to understand that coming to you is a good thing. That is why treats can help with this. If every time your puppy comes to you, you put her away or take something away from her, soon your puppy will not want to come to you. You must work hard to make coming to you a good experience for your puppy. Last week we introduced Bubba to water and got her swimming. Since then, she has been swimming a couple more times and she is very comfortable retrieving in the water. We also introduced her to decoys on land. Introduction to live birds This week we introduced Bubba to a live bird. We do this using a pigeon with the flight feathers pulled out. The pigeon can walk around and flap its wings, but it cannot fly. We ultimately would love to see the puppy chase down the bird, grab it in their mouth and bring it to us or at least prance around with it a bit. For some dogs, this can take a bit of encouragement the first time. But generally, once the puppy grabs hold of the bird, we see their whole demeanor change. This was the case for Bubba. Once Bubba picked up the pigeon, she pranced around the yard with her tail high and a spring in her step. She was so excited and proud of herself. This is a great response. Introduction to gun fire As I stated in last weeks post, we do not want to rush the introduction to gunfire. We have never had a dog we have raised and trained become gun shy and that is because we introduce gunfire is a very slow and painfully methodical way. The first step is that the dog or puppy is in a box on our dog trailer. While in this box, our other dogs are getting marks in the field. The gunners for these marks are anywhere from yards away from the dog trailer and they are using primers or starter pistols. The puppy is hearing these shots, but they are a long way away and are muted by being in the dog trailer. Our puppies hear these shots for weeks, or months before they ever hear anything closer. This is our first introduction to gun fire. Bubba was exposed to this last week and will be every week for a while before we move anything closer to her. Learn more about introducing your dog to gunfire. Continuation of assistant marks Bubba will continue to get assistant marks most days from now until she is done her training. The marks will continue to increase in distance and complexity but all our marking scenarios for our afternoon sessions involved gunners out in the field throwing marks for Bubba. Final thoughts on training for your week-old Labrador puppy You are really in the thick of it if your puppy is around the week mark. The next month or two will likely be the most challenging of your time raising a Labrador puppy. That will make obedience training easier and faster, but that is still a bit of a ways out. Hang in there and push through. Keep your commands and corrections firm and consistent and you will make progress with your puppy. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. Training your week-old Labrador puppy?

At what age is a Poodle fully grown? Poodles are considered fully grown adults at two years old and tend to show emotional signs of maturity, like a calmer nature, around 18 months. At a year old, most Poodles will have reached their final height or very close to it. However, most Poodles will require a full two years to fill out their chest and reach their final weight. Image Source: Pexels How big should a 6-month-old Poodle be? A six-month-old male Poodle will weigh around 41 to 48 pounds, while a six-month-old female Poodle will weigh about 28 to 34 pounds. Both male and female Poodles at this age stand at around 18 to 22 inches tall, which for some Poodles is already their full adult height. Pro Tip: Check out this ultimate pet parent guide with 39 dog care tips on pet first aid kits, puppy-proofing practices, training, veterinary appointments, and more! How much bigger will my Poodle get? There are a few ways to assess how much bigger your Poodle will get. The first is age. If your Poodle is less than a year old, they still have significant growth left! If your Poodle is between one and two years old, they are likely still filling out a bit, but are probably at their adult height. Do they still look oversized next to their legs and body? If this is the case, they are probably still filling out as this is a classic puppy feature! A Poodle puppy will rarely grow larger than their bigger parent, so this will also give you an idea of their maximum size. What is the size of a full-grown Poodle? According to the American Kennel Club Official Poodle Standards , an adult male Poodle is 60 to 70 pounds while an adult female Poodle weighs between 40 and 50 pounds. By these standards, full-grown Poodles will be over 15 inches tall when measuring from the ground to the highest point of their shoulders while standing. Most Standard Poodles will stand between 18 and 24 inches tall. Smart lifestyle choices are essential in keeping your Poodle happy and healthy. The Veterinary Centers of America recommend a long walk, jog, or intense play to fulfill their daily exercise needs. Poodles were bred as retrievers and, as such, are keen on games involving retrieving like fetch. Many Poodles also enjoy swimming. Due to their full coats, Poodles can put on excess weight without their pet parents realizing it. Poodles are not overly prone to weight issues with a balanced diet, but their coat can disguise weight changes. Their full coats also require regular upkeep like brushing and combing every other day, professional grooming every six weeks or so, and watching for potential eye problems. Poodles are prone to weeping eyes and eye irritation from lashes or hair, so keeping their eye area free of long hair is ideal. As a purebred dog breed, Poodles are more susceptible to genetic health problems. Many of these genetic health problems can be screened for early on using DNA technology. These early screenings can help you and your veterinarian prevent and minimize health complications from these genetic diseases. A bove all else, regular veterinary care is the best way to make sure your Poodle stays healthy. Between health screenings, regular veterinary care, bloodwork, x-rays , dental cleanings , and more, your veterinarian is your best resource in caring for your precious Poodle puppy. Be aware, vet visits can quickly become expensive - especially when immediate treatment or surgery is needed for an emergency or illness. With many treatments and surgeries costing thousands of dollars, this can quickly put pet parents in a pinch should the worst happen to their pet. Poodles are larger dogs, which can also increase the price of treatment. This is where pet insurance comes in. Pet insurance reimburses you for out-of-pocket veterinary costs and provides a safety net should the worst happen to your Poodle. As purebred dogs, Poodles are more prone to genetic health problems, like bloat or hip dysplasia, which can quickly become expensive to treat. Final Considerations Poodle puppies grow into elegant, proud dogs who are true aristocrats of the dog kingdom. We know how much your Poodle pup means to you and that they deserve the best! Give yourself peace of mind today when you use Pawlicy Advisor to compare personalized pet insurance quotes from the top Poodle pet insurance companies. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. We will pause our breeding program until futher notice. Your puppy can remember which behaviors he is allowed and where and when he is fed. He can even begin house-training and start becoming used to being groomed. He is ready to leave his mother and littermates to go home with you, fully capable of taking his place in the family. The following list will help you know what to expect from your puppy has he develops. Most puppies will gain or grow rapidly between birth and 6 months of age. How much they grow or gain will depend on their breed, diet, and ultimate adult size. Growth is generally steady until they attain their adult size. You need to build trust with your puppy. Don't ignore crying but address the cause for the crying with attention and care. Touch is the first sense a dog develops and remains a powerfully important sense throughout his life. The entire body, including the paws, is covered with touch-sensitive nerve endings. Although they can see and hear, their sense of vision and hearing is quietly maturing. They are also developing their general sense of smell. This means you will need to take them out at least every 3 hours to get them "housebroken". A general rule of thumb for how long puppies can hold their bladders: one hour for every month of age, plus one. So if a puppy is two months old, he can wait up to three hours. Although capable of learning, they have a very short attention span. Keep a variety of simple toys for your puppy to investigate. He will also play rough and tumble with his littermates and will gradually begin learning to play by himself. It is extremely important that puppies socialize with people at this age. Include lots of people of varying ages, sizes and shapes to interact positively with your pup. Some puppies have a brief phase of "fear" at this time as they may respond to noises or new objects. Expose your puppy to new objects and allow them to investigate on their own terms until they are comfortable with the new situation. After all, most puppies just learned to walk at 3 weeks of age and run at 5 weeks of age, which was just a few short weeks ago. They are developing their gross motor skills that help them to run, play, and "hunt". Their fine motor skills will come later. Puppies also learn to jump up at this stage. This is a normal behavior that can turn into an undesirable behavior when the puppy reaches adult-hood and jumps on every visitor. You can begin correcting your puppy and giving him positive reinforcement for good behavior. Get your puppy used to the brush and comb by gently using them on him for very short sessions that are kept positive. Don't hold your puppy down to be brushed or combed if he does not want to be. Their muzzle is getting longer but overall they have the characteristics of a puppy. The ears may begin to stand up in some breeds. The rest is spent eating, playing and eliminating. Their body temperature at birth is around 94 — 97 degrees. They are not able to regulate their own body temperature so they depend on their mother for warmth. They also cannot see or hear or eliminate on their own. They cannot walk. About all they can do is smell, suckle and crawl. They are totally dependent on their mother and the environment the first 2 to 3 weeks. They are mostly influenced by their mother and litter-mates during this period. We weigh the puppies everyday the first 2 to 3 weeks. Week Two: Poodle Puppies usually open their eyes around 8 to 10 days and their ears around 13 to 17 days. While sleeping all healthy and contented puppies will twitch. This is an activated sleep, characterized by muscle twitches. This is normal and healthy. Week Three: During the third week we will often see teeth start to erupt and the puppies will start to stand and walk around. Everyday is amazing to see these helpless puppies start to become independent. At this age their nervous system is more developed so that they can urinate and defecate by themselves. This is when the puppies will also start to play a little bit more with their litter-mates. This week is very important in the puppies emotional development. They will start not only the interaction with their litter-mates but also with their mother. We never start the weaning process during this week. While mother may come out of the whelping box during this week she will never be far. Week Four: At this age the puppies will be introduced to our own homemade puppy mush and their supplement which will help grow their immune systems. Puppies are born without an immune system and depends on their mother to supply this protection through her milk. Their body temperature will usually be around degree and they will be able to begin regulating their own body temperature. Every day they will eat more and more. The puppies will start to eat more food and move around more easily. They may even start to chase each other, bark, and bite. We still weigh them at least every other day if not every day. This is the time that the mother starts leaving the puppies at longer intervals of time and start to regulate their nursing. So this is a good time for us to introduce the puppies to the weaning box and start the weaning and potty box training. Week Five: Puppies start to establish some sort of dominance in the pack. Growth and development is rapid in this week. They become very aware of their surroundings and respond quickly to training. They begin to growl, play, challenge, and learn disciple from their mother. They also develop a bit of a competitive spirit. Training ability is developed and puppies are ready to begin learning. They also start to discover their toys and play with them more. Keeping them stimulated is important. Puppies can start to control their need to potty and now know they need to move away from the sleeping area. Good experience with people from week 5 — 7 will play a large roll in how they will continue to interact. Week Six: By this time it is amazing to see that little puppy wake up and walk over to the potty box to eliminate. Puppies enter their socialization period by the end of the third week. However, the most critical period — age six to eight weeks — is when puppies most easily learn to accept others as part of their family pack. The integrating of the human family is so important and will effect them for the rest of their life. The puppy brain waves look of an adult dog by about the 50th day, but he is not yet programmed — that is the job of the human trainer, and the job of his mom, siblings and other canine family members. This is when the fun begins for all humans and puppies. We know how important this time is for puppy to adjust to humans and how playtime stimulates their little brains to grow smart and wise. We introduce them to the outside. We bring in more interactive toys. We introduce them to the pool, weather permitting. If outside pool is out we use the grooming bath for water play. They also learn not to bite the human hand ever! It is at the 7th week, day 49, that we conduct the Volhard Test. This is actual one of several that will occur through its life. Instead of meeting new or familiar people and objects with curiosity puppies start to react with fearfulness. Anything that frightens them at this age may have a lasting impact. So take care that the baby is not overstimulated with to many changes or challenges at one time. This does not mean that your puppy will grow up to be a scared-y-cat; it is simply a normal part of development where puppies learn to be more cautious. Careful socialization during this period helps counter fear reactions. Because your puppy is actively working on social skills and is paying attention to both litter-mates and humans. Your puppy is learning at an extremely fast rate. This is why we will NOT hold any puppy beyond the 9th weeks. All puppies that cannot be picked up during puppy pickup week must enter their puppy into a training program. Weeks Thirteen — Sixteen: During this phase a puppy will attempt to challenge you for dominance. Here is where they test to see just how much they can get away with and test your level of tolerance. The more a puppy is allowed to get way with during this phase, may cause the dog to lose more and more respect for his owner. This may result in behavioral issues that can snowball if not corrected through training and obedience. Formal obedience should begin here. This will assist the dog in becoming the best he can be. This is the time your puppy will begin to understand and use ranking in terms of submission and dominance. Are you the owner going to be a good pack leader? Puppies will need to be taught what they can and cannot chew. Puppies need to be taught that it is never acceptable behavior to jump on a human, small or big. This is the time that the pack leader, the human in charge, especially needs to be confident, but firm with positive reinforcement. An obedient dog, a good canine citizen, is a pleasure to be with. A disobedient dog causes stress for all and can cause damage to things and other humans. What do I mean by that? The canine depends on a human, however, he is and his thinking is canine. He needs the human to communicate and set the standards for him. If the human does not then the dog will have no choice but set his own standards, doggy style. Be prepared to be a Good, very good, pack leader! Your puppy now understands that he has a pack which may consist of both humans and canine and his behavior will be most influenced by this group. You can expect your dog to challenge you more as he explores dominance and his role in the pack. Rather they are just working out what their rank is in the pack and what is expected of them in their position. Again: be a Good, very good, pack leader! Canines that are not spayed or neutered will also start exhibiting sexual behavior during this period. Be responsible and spay or neuter you canine. Some puppy owners hire a canine trainer to come to their home to teach them how to train. Some owners learn ahead of time what they need to do and immediately begin their puppy on this program. Still others have their puppy enter into our training program. We have much information on the website about training. And for our puppy buyer we are here whenever they need any coaching along the way. Be Consistent, Persistent and always have a Routine! Category : Puppies When you take your puppy home usually around weeks of age they will need to eat 3 or 4 times a day. At 8 weeks old we feed small meals 4 times a day at 7 am, 11 am, 2 pm and then at 5 pm. We allow them free access to water until 7 pm in the evening. An alternative is to feed 3 times a day at 7 am, 12 noon and at 5 pm. If your puppy is hungry split the meals to 4 times a day. By the time they are 10 weeks old they can go to 3 meals a day. If your puppy feels thin you can feel all the ribs and backbone easily increase the amount of food. If your puppy feels fat you should be able to feel some of the ribs reduce the amount of food. Some puppies are very active and burn up every calorie they eat, some are prone to being a little rounder and their food intake needs to be carefully monitored. Research has shown that dogs that are not overfeed have a much lower risk of developing hip dysplasia. Keep your puppy thin and healthy. We do not recommend free feeding of puppies as this makes it more difficult to housebreak your poodle and regulate their diet. Better to move to free feeding after housebreaking if you choose to. It is harder to monitor how much food they eat when free feeding and a glutunous puppy may quickly become fat. Remember a thin puppy is less likely to develop hip dysplasia. We strongly encourage you to keep your puppy on the same food we provide for the first month. Both coccidia and giardia may live in the gut of a healthy poodle and they never have an outbreak. When their bodies are stressed they are more likely to develop an unhealthy balance and the result may be a sick puppy. Moving to a new home, leaving their Mother and siblings and diet changes are all stressful. We encourage you to make as few changes as possible to your puppies diet the first month. Changing to a different dog food — go slowly. It may take a month or longer to switch foods. If at any point your puppy develops an upset stomach go back to the level of food mix that they were doing well on. Should your puppy develop bloody diarrhea take them to the veterinarian, they have most likely developed gastroenteritis and may need some medication or possibly fluids. Go slowly, new protein sources require time for the stomach to adjust. This is true not only in puppies but also adults. We continue to feed our puppies 3 meals a day until they are 6 months old. Our belief is that in keeping food moving through the puppy it allows for better consistent growth and health. At 6 months of age we start to feed 2 times a day with snacks throughout the day. We continue to feed our dogs 2 times a day throughout their life. We feed snacks several times a day to both puppies and adults which may be carrots, green beans, eggs or chicken or pieces of their kibble. We feed our poodles both kibble and home cooked food. Bully sticks are given occasionally for chewing. No Comments.

June 30, We love our Frenchies like family, but they can be hard to shop for when it comes to finding the right collar. On average, a French Bulldog will fit in a size small collar, but each one is different. Your Frenchie may not have the same neck size as another one because their breed tends to vary in size. Many owners start out with a small collar and work their way up if needed. This list of tips and tricks can help you find the right French Bulldog collar size and avoid unnecessary purchasing so you get it right the first time. Dangers of not having the right size collar Not having the right size collar for your Frenchie can be dangerous for multiple reasons. First, your dog will be more likely to escape from you if they have a loose-fitting collar. Escaping is not a risk we take lightly as it puts them at danger. So, be sure to get the right size collar. However, escaping is not the only risk we have to worry about when it comes to getting the wrong size collar for our dog. There are many ways that we can harm them or they can harm themselves by not getting them the proper size collar. If there is too much room between their skin and the collar, then you are putting them at risk for getting their collar stuck in places. There are other bodily injuries to consider with a collar that is too large. Your dog can get their leg stuck in their leash when they scratch if it is too loose. This may seem redundant, but it could be dangerous depending on how they react. In their reaction to having a leg trapped might put them at greater harm. The collar can even get stuck in their mouth if it is too loose which can cause choking or mouth damage. Collar Irritation Having a collar that is too tight can cause skin irritation. Anything being tight on their skin can affect hair growth which can cause irritation and even skin infections. A collar that is too tight may even cause hair loss in the spot their collar rests. Either way, having a collar that is too tight can very easily cause skin issues. So, it is best to try to avoid this by getting the right size. Collar Choking Hazards To Be Aware Of Collars that are too loose can be a choking hazard, but the same goes for collars that are too tight. If their collar is too tight and there is any extra tightness from pulling, then your dog is far more likely to choke or possibly develop breathing issues. If they are constantly scratching their neck with their hind leg it might be an indication that it is too tight. To do this, be sure to measure just above their shoulders where the collar should sit. In order to get an accurate measure, make sure your dog is standing on a flat surface. If your dog is laying down or standing on uneven pavement, then you may not get an accurate measurement. Using treats can help encourage your furry friend stand at attention and make it easier to get a measurement. So, consider using a cord from a phone charger or something similar. Gently wrap the cord around their neck, keeping your fingers locked in place for accurate measuring. Another alternative that I happened to have in my house due to my interest in fitness was a Myotape measure. It is especially useful in measuring progress in my weight loss journey but I found it also worked very well to get an accurate neck measurement on my Frenchie. Then, simply measure the wire distance between your fingers. This will allow you to get an accurate measurement with little effort and keep your dog comfortable. Puppies are different from adult dogs in the way that they are far less patient. This can make a collar difficult to use. Protecting your pooch is the number one priority. Before they are trained , puppies are more likely to pull on their lead while they are in training. So, using a collar can be a risk because they may damage their trachea or irritate their skin by pulling on a collar too much. Some people consider harnesses for puppies, but they tend to not respond well to them due to discomfort. So, a collar may be best for you puppy, just remember to be patient while they learn. The right French Bulldog puppy collar size is going to depend on your dog, but most younger puppies are safe with an extra small , while older puppies can fit better into a small. It should not be too tight for you to fit both fingers, nor should it be loose enough that you can fit your whole hand in there. Two fingers is the best way to judge the fit. Finding the right French Bulldog collar size can be a challenge because their heads are quite small. With the wrong size collar, it may be all too easy for them to back out of a collar and run away. The right size collar will remain on their neck without choking them or making them uncomfortable. Tips for buying a collar For Your French Bulldog Beyond measuring and bringing your dog along, there are some other factors that can help with finding the right sized collar for your Frenchie. There are many different collar options out there to choose from, and you want to make sure you find just the right one. Adjustable collars are great for French Bulldogs because their sizes can vary so vastly. So, try your best to find an adjustable collar to make your life a little easier. Make sure you pay attention to the fabric of the collar you are buying Frenchies tend to be prone to allergies. So, your furry friend may have a bad reaction to certain fabrics. Keep this is mind when buying a new collar and keep an eye on your dog for the first few days they are wearing a new collar. This is the best way to ensure that any allergic reaction is caught quickly. Be aware of breathing issues Finally, just remember that French Bulldogs are prone to breathing issues and allergy issues. So, take your time finding the right collar for your Frenchie and keep their safety and comfort first. So, follow our guide for finding the right collar size. Remember that while most Frenchies are going to wear a size small, the size may vary based on your dog and how the collar is made. Be sure to measure their neck if you can in order to get the best possible fit. Adjustable collars are probably going to be best for Frenchies because it allows you to have some leeway in sizing issues. Maybe a small collar is a little too tight on your dog. Finally, just make sure that your dog is comfortable. Maybe they would do better with a thicker collar or even a harness. No matter what type of collar you choose for your French Bulldog, just make sure they are not having any reactions to the material or tightness of it. A leash that is too loose can be a choking hazard or a way for them to escape. A leash that is too tight can lead to issues with breathing and even hair loss and skin irritation. So, keep your eyes and ears open for signs of discomfort or irritation. PS -For other French Bulldog accessories take a look here. Share on facebook. So you need to measure them and then determine the size of the collar required. If you own a French Bulldog , you must have noticed they have stocky necks. This serves as a crucial aspect while determining what size collar for French Bulldog puppy you need. But first, you should understand why they have a different type of neck. The reason for the strong neck lies in the history of French bullies. There they met the two favorites of England: Terriers and Pugs. The crossover of these breeds led to the current strong necks of French Bulldogs. Therefore, you must take special care while buying them collars. It is of utmost importance to consider their comfort. Otherwise, they will get irritated with the wrong collar. Thus, they end up creating one of these two problems for their four-legged friend. So there will be no use in putting up a collar. In case you somehow manage to fit it in, it will irritate your dog. Eventually, you will have to take it out. The only way to avoid these issues is by following the size guidelines. Once you have got your answer to what size collar for French Bulldog puppy needs, the next step is to check the other factors. A few more things you need to consider are: Material You must know that French Bulldogs are sensitive creatures. Therefore, putting the wrong material collar around their neck can lead to allergies. Real leathers are usually the safest for them. Even if you pick some other material, remember to check for any side effects after they wear it. The type of collar you are picking also plays an important role. French Bullies have flat faces and short heads. By keeping these factors and the size in mind, you can get your French Bulldog a suitable collar. Should You Consider Harness? No comments The French Bulldog packs an oversized personality for its little body. Originally bred in England as a smaller version of the English Bulldog, it traveled across the channel to France with its humans in the middle s. Then, through subsequent breeding with terriers and Pugs, it became the plucky breed we know today. Frenchies are curious, bright, affectionate and happy to be wherever their humans are. Size is an essential consideration when deciding on a doggie companion, especially if you live in an apartment. Fortunately, the Frenchie is ideally suited to life wherever you abide. Read on to learn all about the average size of the French Bulldog. What is the Typical Size of a French Bulldog? A small dog breed, Frenchies achieve a height at the withers of between 11 to 13 inches 27 to 33 cm as adults. Females should weigh between 18 — 26 pounds 8 — 12 kilograms while males may weigh 20 — 28 pounds 9 — 13 kilograms. Since the French Bulldog loves to loaf on the couch, be sure to take your pup on walks — just two per day will keep its weight under control. What is the French Bulldog Neck Size? Because of its English Bulldog ancestry, French Bulldogs have short, thick necks. The average neck circumference is around 14 inches 35 cm and their collar size ranges from 12 to 16 inches 30 to 40 cm. Neck width combined with skull size may factor into why some French Bulldogs develop breathing problems. What is the French Bulldog Head Size? Frenchies have large, broad heads that are square shaped. They are brachycephalic, which is just a fancy word meaning they have a shortened snout; their muzzles are so short that they look almost flat. This trait, along with those huge, dark eyes give the breed its expressive face. When measured from around the jaw hinge and the top of the skull, the circumference of their heads is between 13 and .What is the French Bulldog Chest Size? While they are small dogs, Frenchies are muscular and stocky. They have broad chests, probably from their English Bulldog ancestors, which give them their stocky appearance. Their chests measure 18 to 26 inches 45 to 66 cm around the barrel. Therefore, you should never leave your pup alone near a body of water. What is the French Bulldog Length? Like this, its back is between 10 and 11 inches 25 and 28 cm long. Wrap The French Bulldog is a stocky, compact dog that is just the right size to curl up in your lap while you watch TV, read, or work on the computer. In addition to its small size, its easy-going nature and lack of a tendency to bark make it an excellent choice of pet for apartment dwellers. Pin1 1 Shares When we first got Claude the puppy, we were in the local pet store searching for the right sized collar. That gave me the inspiration to put this guide to French Bulldog neck sizes together which explains how you can measure your dog up, and some rough guidance to what the best French Bulldog collar size will be for your dog. French Bulldog neck size for collars What size neck does a French Bulldog have? French Bulldogs typically very short and stocky necks with a thick circumference. How to measure a French Bulldog neck for a collar by using a measuring tape. Handy Hint: Most pet suppliers offer extra small and small collars. For adult Frenchies I would recommend small collar sizes and for French Bulldog puppies from 8 weeks and up I would recommend the extra small collar sizes. What size collar for a French Bulldog puppy? Frenchies come in different shapes and sizes, with their sometimes being big differences between male and female puppies. French Bulldog puppy collar sizes Here is some very rough guidance on what size collar is best for a French Bulldog puppy from 8 weeks of age and up. So, one of the best ways to select the right collar is to measure their neck. This can be done using the steps below: Firstly, you will need to get your dog to stand on a flat surface. Having treats to hand might be a good idea! The withers are the point where the neck and the back join which is just above the shoulder blade. Be sure not to pull the tape measure too tight or let it hang too loose. Now that you know the precise measurements of your Frenchie you are now able to compare these with the ranges that collar sizes are available in to ensure that you are buying the right size. What to consider when buying French Bulldog collars Buying a collar for a French Bulldog is totally different from buying a collar for any other dog. Think of breeds such as Pugs, Chihuahuas and of course our beloved Frenchies. Due to this, collars need to ensure that they are anti-choke collars and are neck friendly. Another thing to consider is the material that the collar is made from. Collars are a great alternative for Frenchies that are not comfortable in a harness. If your dog is able to walk on the lead without pulling, this may be a better solution. Some experts are of the opinion that to train your French Bulldog effectively you must have both a collar and a harness and we completely agree. The question that should be asked is when collars and harnesses should be used independently. Collars can place added pressure onto the neck and potentially lead to choking. I know of one owner who used a cat harness on their 8-week-old Frenchie puppy instead of a collar for this very reason. Why choose a collar? Puppies: puppies tend to dislike harnesses as they make them feel uncomfortable. As with everything there are certain pros and cons to using collars and they are listed below: Pros to collars They tend to be the most comfortable for the dog and so can be worn for longer during the day. This makes them ideal for identification purposes. There tends to be a wider variety of collars in different materials, styles and comforts. Easy to put on and take off. Cons to collars Depending on how well the collar is fitted it is possible for the dog to slip out of it. Using collars on brachycephalic breeds like French Bulldogs, they are prone to thyroid and trachea damage if they excessively pull when they are on the lead. There is a possibility that collars can get caught and suffocate dogs. It is advised that dogs do not wear their collars when unattended in the home. Which collar I recommend for a Frenchie The collar we use with Claude for every day use is this one on Amazon view prices. This one here is adjustable, so should work with your puppy and then you can upgrade into the later years. You can buy it in size ranges from extra small through to small. Why choose a harness? Longer walks: when you plan on taking your dog for a longer walk it may be better to fit them with a harness as this will evenly spread the pressure should they pull on their lead. Training purposes: puppies are highly distracted when they are young. Anything will make them excited and they may pull on their lead regardless of the pressure they are feeling round their neck with a collar. Using a harness will provide more control over your puppy. Although seemingly preferred by many French Bulldog owners, there are still pros and cons to the harness and they are listed below: Pros to harnesses Less pull stress with a harness as the pressure is evenly distributed around the body. Better control over your dog whilst walking. Reduces risk of neck injuries that collars may cause. A harness will not choke the dog if it were to get caught. Front clip harnesses can cause tracheal issues. Front hook harnesses can cause discomfort if not fitted properly. No matter what your preference of collar or harness, it is important to understand the differences between them and when both may be useful to you. For the best results it is always best to get both a collar and a harness so you are covered for all circumstances. Which harness I recommend for a Frenchie The one we use with Claude on longer walks out into the forest is this one on Amazon view prices. The previous harness we had was really tricky to get on and off Claude, but not with this one. Why Frenchies have stocky neck sizes Originally bred in England as a smaller version of the English Bulldog, French Bulldogs were introduced into France when they made their travels with their people across the English Channel. There, the breed was crossed with terriers and pugs to become what we know and love today! You can read more about the history here. This mix of breeds resulted in very strong and thick necks. If you own a Frenchie, you will know exactly what I mean! As you can see with our Claude photos, his is actually bigger than the average and so he tends to wear a larger collar. The best advice I can give you is to do what we did in the end and actually take your Frenchie puppy or dog into the pet store and let them test out a few collar and harness variations in store. However, if you already know the neck size and have measured your puppy up, you can scroll up to find a few recommendations on the best collars and harnesses currently available on the market. Conclusion Understanding the Importance of Neck Size The neck size of a French Bulldog is not just a superficial consideration; it directly impacts their comfort, health, and well-being. Choosing a suitable collar or harness that fits correctly is crucial for their overall happiness and safety. An ill-fitting or tight collar can cause discomfort and chafing around the neck area, leading to skin irritation or even sores. Moreover, it can restrict their movements and make it difficult for them to breathe correctly. French Bulldogs, like many brachycephalic breeds , already have a compromised respiratory system due to their unique facial structure. Wearing a too tight collar can further impede their breathing, exacerbating any existing respiratory challenges. In addition to discomfort and breathing difficulties, an incorrectly fitted collar can pose a risk of potential injuries. If the collar is too loose, your Frenchie may easily slip out, increasing the chances of them getting lost or injured while roaming free. Conversely, if the collar is too tight, it can put excessive pressure on the neck, potentially causing strain, injury, or even damage to the trachea. Look for options that provide a snug yet comfortable fit, allowing enough room for your Frenchie to breathe and move freely. Consider opting for collars or harnesses made from soft, padded materials to minimize discomfort or rubbing against their delicate skin. Quick-release buckles are another beneficial feature, enabling you to remove the collar or harness swiftly in case of emergencies. Remember, the right fit is key. If your Frenchie experiences weight fluctuations, ensure that their neckwear remains appropriately adjusted to prevent discomfort or potential hazards. Factors Affecting French Bulldog Neck Sizes French Bulldog The neck size of a French Bulldog can vary significantly due to various factors such as age, genetics, gender, and overall body structure. Owners must recognize that there is no universal, one-size-fits-all answer when it comes to the average neck size of Frenchies. However, understanding these variables can provide valuable insights and help you estimate the average neck size for your furry companion. Age: As French Bulldogs grow from puppies to adults, their neck size will naturally increase. It is essential to regularly measure their neck size during their growth stages to ensure proper fitting collars or harnesses at each phase. Genetics: Like any other physical attribute, the neck size of a French Bulldog can be influenced by genetics. Different bloodlines and breeding variations may contribute to variations in neck size among individual Frenchies. Gender: In some cases, there may be subtle differences in neck size between male and female French Bulldogs. However, this difference is typically minimal and should be a minor factor when determining the average neck size. Here are approximate average neck sizes for French Bulldogs at different stages of life: French Bulldog Puppies weeks : The average neck size for puppies in this age range typically ranges from 8 to 12 inches 20 to 30 cm. However, measuring your specific Frenchie puppy is crucial to ensure an accurate fit. Adult French Bulldogs 1 year and older : On average, adult French Bulldogs typically have neck sizes ranging from 12 to 16 inches 30 to 40 cm. However, keep in mind that there can be variations in neck size among adult Frenchies. Soft measuring tapes, typically used for sewing or tailoring, work best for this purpose. Prepare your Frenchie: Ensure that your French Bulldog is calm and relaxed before proceeding with the measurement. This will help you get a more accurate reading. This is the area you want to measure. Wrap the measuring tape: Gently wrap the measuring tape around the base of the neck, ensuring it is snug but not too tight. The tape should be positioned just above the shoulders and comfortably around the neck. Take the measurement: Once the tape is in place, note the measurement in inches or centimeters. Ensure that the measurement is taken with the tape level and parallel to the ground to avoid any inaccuracies. This measurement will be a reliable reference point for selecting the suitable collar or harness size, ensuring a comfortable fit for your furry friend. French Bulldog puppies undergo rapid development during their early months, including an increase in neck size. As their bodies grow, their necks will also proportionally grow in size. To ensure the comfort and safety of your Frenchie puppy, it is crucial to regularly measure their neck size and adjust their collars and harnesses accordingly. If their neckwear becomes too tight or restrictive, it can cause discomfort, difficulty breathing, or even pose a risk of injury. Comfort and movement: Puppies are full of energy and love to explore their surroundings. Wearing a properly fitted collar or harness ensures that they can move freely, play, and explore comfortably without any restrictions. Regularly measuring their neck size and adjusting their accessories can mitigate these risks and provide a secure fit. As your French Bulldog puppy grows, please continue to monitor their neck size and adjust their collars or harnesses accordingly. Frenchie Neck Size Tips for Breathing and Health French Bulldog French Bulldogs, along with other brachycephalic breeds, have a unique facial structure that can result in respiratory challenges. Their shortened snouts and compact airways make it more difficult for them to breathe compared to breeds with longer muzzles. As such, it is crucial to consider their respiratory health when selecting collars or harnesses. Special considerations for exercise: French Bulldogs may have limitations during physical activity due to their respiratory challenges. Managing respiratory issues: Some French Bulldogs may already have pre-existing respiratory conditions. A veterinarian can offer specific advice on managing these conditions and recommend collar or harness options that provide optimal support without compromising their respiratory health. This expert guidance will help you select accessories that minimize the risk of breathing restrictions and provide your Frenchie with the comfort they need. Here are some key considerations and recommendations: Choose products designed for brachycephalic breeds: Look for collars or harnesses specifically designed to accommodate the needs of brachycephalic dogs like French Bulldogs. These products are typically crafted with their unique anatomy in mind and aim to minimize discomfort or breathing restrictions. Wide bands distribute pressure more evenly and reduce the risk of choking or causing discomfort. Seek padded materials: Collars or harnesses with padding offer additional comfort and help prevent irritation or chafing. Look for quick-release buckles: Quick-release buckles are an essential safety feature. They allow you to easily and quickly remove the collar or harness in an emergency or if your Frenchie becomes entangled in something. This ensures that you can promptly free your pup without causing any harm. Consider using harnesses: Harnesses can be an excellent choice for French Bulldogs due to their ability to distribute pressure more evenly across the chest and shoulders, reducing strain on the neck. This can be particularly beneficial for Frenchies with respiratory challenges or neck sensitivity. Remember to choose flexible options with wide bands, padded materials, and quick-release buckles. If appropriate, consider using a harness to provide additional support and reduce strain on their neck. Ill-fitting neckwear can lead to discomfort, potential injury, or even escape. Place the tape snugly around the base of their neck, where the collar typically rests. Ensure it is neither too tight nor loose, allowing your Frenchie to breathe comfortably. Avoid overly tight collars: Collars that are too tight can cause discomfort, restrict breathing, and potentially lead to injury. Select a collar size that provides a secure fit without causing discomfort or constriction. Prevent loose collars: Loose collars risk slipping off or getting caught on objects, potentially leading to accidents or escapes. Over time, collars may stretch or become worn, so inspecting and adjusting as needed is necessary. Adjustments for growth and weight fluctuations: French Bulldogs, especially puppies, experience growth spurts and potential weight fluctuations. Periodically reassess their neck size and adjust the collar or harness to ensure a comfortable and secure fit. These precautions will help ensure their safety, prevent escape, and promote a positive and enjoyable experience during walks and other activities. Email address: Leave this field empty if you're human: Popular Posts.

I am familiar with common and uncommon health problems they may face so when my boyfriend and I decided we were ready to adopt our own english puppy finding a reputable breeder that prioritizes health was most important to us. Erica and Mitch of Bruiser Bulldogs are just that. They are experienced, ethical and quality breeders. I was referred to them by my friend that I trust after I saw their gorgeous healthy puppy. Our Puppy Primrose is the light of our lives! Bruisers was there to assist us every step of the way. We would highly recommend Bruisers Bulldogs to anyone looking for their own happy, healthy pup! Leah H. We were lucky to have come across Bruiser Bulldogs and even more so the fact that they were near our family and hometown made it even better. We have had Clementine Callie for four months now, and she is a wonderful dog. Her personality is amazing, and I think part of it is breeding and the other part is Erika and her family lovingly raising the puppies in their home with plenty of attention and snuggles. I also was impressed that, rather than send the puppies out right at 8 weeks, Erika kept ours for a few extra weeks because she was tiny and not read to leave her mom yet. It's that care that differentiates Bruisers from other breeders. Emily R. Erica was easy to work with thru the entire process from application to adopting and now beyond as we host our new family member, Chief. Her on-call support and willingness to provide open, honest advice to all of our questions and concerns continues to be appreciated. We would highly recommend Bruiser Bulldogs to anyone looking for an English Bulldog to join their family. Elizabeth W. Lady L. They are experienced, responsive and knowledgeable about all things bulldog related. They went above and beyond for us and are truly dedicated to all of their pups! We love our little girl so much and would recommend Bruiser to anyone looking for a healthy beautiful bully. Jonathan E. Erica and Mitch are trustworthy, excellent communicators, fair, passionate, and produce the best bulldogs. We were at the top of the waiting list for months and Erica reached out every litter to see if we were finally ready for a bulldog. When we were, she was very easy to work with. Her knowledge on bulldogs is outstanding. We had many questions on the process and she always knew what was best for the puppy. We've had Penny formerly Blair for two months and she is very healthy, energetic, playful, and sweet. She is great with other people and dogs. We are so happy with our pup. When we are ready for bulldog 2, we will only consider Bruiser Bulldogs. Mitch C. Bowser was born April and is an integral part of our family. When we were first exploring English Bulldog breeders our biggest concern was the overall health of the dogs. We decided to work with Erica at Bruiser Bulldogs because we liked their focus on improving the breeds breathing abilities and the fact that the puppies are raised within her family environment before coming home with their new owners. Bowser also breaths clearly and our vet was impressed with his overall health from the moment we brought him home. All that said we know English Bulldogs have a predisposition to many health issues and that his current health can not predict the future. With that In mind its important to start with a breeder that open to answer any of your questions as Erica has ours, and that strongly believes in improving the breeds overall health profile. Adam B. My sister ended up finding Bruiser Bulldogs and we knew right away that they were the breeder for us. In September we ended up driving 9 hours to pick up two Bruiser bulldog puppies- one for my husband and I and one for my mom. Jackson and Penelope have been nothing but a joy. They are both very athletic and healthy. They are also HUGE snugglers and always want to be with you. It is an absolute pleasure having these two bullies in our lives! Erica is very knowledgeable about the breed. She is very hands on throughout the process and is just overall a kind and honest person to work with. With all that being said I cannot recommend Bruiser Bulldogs enough! Collyn C. One of the reasons we chose Bruiser Bulldogs was due to the claims about breeding for health. During our first visit at our vet's office, he told us that our pup was one of the healthiest English bulldogs he had ever seen. He is healthy, happy and social. Would recommend to anyone. Christina S. We seen our dog on their website and sent them an Email. Mitch called us and personally walked us through the process and made sure we had the right dog for our family. We couldn't be happier when we picked up our dog Ramsey, Erica made sure we had everything we needed and then some. They are truly amazing people who breed truly amazing dogs! Jim T. We are here to help! How much do Bulldog puppies cost? The beauty of looking for a Florida Bulldog on our network is having a lot of options! Not only will you have a better chance of finding the exact puppy you want but also at the price is within your budget. What if there are no Bulldog breeders near me? Our network of English Bulldog breeders in Florida is growing by the day so we are confident that you will meet someone with your dream puppy. We can help you search across the Lower 48 states then your chosen breeder can arrange to have you pick up your new puppy at a major airport in Florida. What is the vetting process for Bulldog breeders? All the breeders and businesses on our network went through a strict screening process where we took a close look at their experiences, knowledge in breeding, practices, and facilities. Why is Florida Puppies different from other networks with Bulldog puppies? Many websites are not careful about who they work with making it easy for puppy mills to take advantage of people who are looking for an English Bulldog puppy Florida. Florida Puppies was designed to prevent this from happening. All the Bulldog breeders Florida that you meet here are ethical businesses who take good care of their puppies until the day you take them home. What is a puppy mill like? In puppy mills, dogs are forced to breed their entire lives. Puppies from these places often run a higher risk of developing genetic health issues because their parents are poorly matched. When looking for an English Bulldog puppy for sale Florida, avoid puppy mills with cheap offers at all costs! Are there any Bulldog puppies for sale in Florida right now? What kind of dog is a Bulldog? English Bulldogs were first bred in the s to fight in a horrendous sport called bull-baiting. When the violent sport was banned, these fearless dogs switched careers to driving cattle and their aggressive tendencies were eventually bred out. Today, Bulldogs are pampered pooches who love to lounge all day. There are two knowns lines of this breed -- English and American -- and there is some difference between the two in terms of build. Our network can help you find English or American bulldog puppies Florida. How big does a Bulldog get? What is Bulldog temperament like? Bulldogs are classified as medium-sized and can reach a weight of pounds. They have a stocky build, low bodies, heavy chests, and hefty limbs. Bulldogs are typically low energy but they need daily exercise to stay healthy. They are sweet in nature and are quite friendly. And though these dogs are very brave, they no longer carry the aggression that their ancestors used to possess. Are Bulldogs good for apartments? How does Florida Puppies work? When you search our network for a Bulldog for sale in Florida, we will introduce you to a list of breeders in your city or state who are likely to have puppies ready for rehoming. When you find the Bulldog puppy that you like, contact the breeder, work out the details or pay them a visit! Bulldog's Available! Our passion for this unique and beloved breed is evident in every puppy that we raise. From their sparkling eyes, to their wrinkled faces, and their short, stocky legs, English Bulldogs are truly one of a kind. At Dazzling Bulldogs, we take pride in carefully selecting and breeding only the healthiest and most beautiful bulldogs to ensure that each and every puppy we raise is nothing short of perfect. Let us help you bring a little bit of dazzle into your life with one of our adorable bulldog puppies. Visit our website to learn more and find your new furry family member today. We are a family breeder, All of our bulldogs live inside our home and our loved as family pets. Every litter we have is hand raised inside from birth. Our Website was created to help educate animal lovers about our favorite breed, The English Bulldog. WE specialize in rare colors and Merle English Bulldogs. Dazzling English Bulldog Puppies for Sale We keep a waiting list for our puppies and have an application process to assure they go to a loving stable environment. Our English Bulldogs are all our pets and are our family members. The English Bulldog breeder you decide to go with can be the best or worst decision when looking at an English Bulldog puppy for sale. .We make sure to only feed the best food and breed genetically healthy lines. Pick your breeder carefully and as a result, you will be assured of the healthiest English Bulldog puppy having the least amount of issues. When you purchase a puppy from Dazzling Bulldogs, you will have lifetime advice and guidance any time day or night. Fur Ever Family Dazzling Bulldogs was created solely to unite loving companion puppies with owners who need them as much as they need us. If you have any questions please feel free to call us directly at the number below. We would love to speak with you and guide you in the fun and exciting process of finding your newest family member! Show me the Puppies Get ready to fall in love with Dazzling Bulldogs, the premier English bulldog breeder that is dedicated to providing the ultimate bulldog experience.

Puppy pads Create a Schedule Golden Retriever pups would do well with a schedule. Dogs live with a routine, and they are easy to train by having one. For this reason, make a schedule of the things you need to do regularly. Eventually, your pup will learn the routine events and will make itself adept at them. It will help you prepare for your pet, especially in the first few days of living together. As you allow your pet to adjust, do your best to create a stress-free environment for it. Always supervise it as it familiarizes itself with its new home. It can even grow louder as they age. Moderate Training Golden Retrievers responds well, especially to positive reinforcement. Squeaky Toys Out of all toys, your pet will love the squeaky ones. For this reason, prepare for a lot of loud squeaks every time your pet is active. Thus, in picking your pet, you may want to consider getting it from the best. Tells you any health problems A good breeder will tell you any significant health problems in any of the dogs he or she bred. Asks more questions than you A good breeder would ask for more items from you than you would for him or her. Not in a hurry to send off A good breeder is not in a hurry to send the puppies off and get your money. He or she will even show you other breeders and veterinarians caring for their dogs. Requires expectations on both sides A good breeder will create a contract that offers not only what he or she expects from you. More than that, he or she will also show what you can expect from him or her. Sends puppies properly A good breeder will never send a puppy in a compartment and without any responsible person to go with it. Works only with one or two breeds A good breeder works only with a single or a couple of species. Shows breeding experience A good breeder shows her dogs in recognized confirmation shows. He or she will also join his or her breed in other breed-related performance events. Other states. She has the same loving and smart personality as Sky, but has her dad's darker coloring. She has been such a fun addition to our family. His poodle fur coat is a beautiful deep red color and super soft. Poodles are known for being extremely smart, and Denver is no exception. He potty and kennel trained in just a few days! He is our little cuddle bug. She greets you with a hug and a big smile every time. She will be our future Mom to our English Cream line of retrievers. Her cute red curls and white tipped feet make us melt. She is the Mom to our teacup goldendoodles. He picks up on new commands quickly and loves new challenges. Fetch is his favorite game. He has short, white fur that is silky soft. Morgan has a sweet temperament and likes to play fetch and and go on hikes. Name: MookieBreed: Golden Retriever Weight: 70lbs Mookie has a sweet temperament with high drive and responds quickly to commands. He has a blocky head, short silky fur, and a dark golden coat. We consider this bloodline one of the best, and we will always keep it going. Her gentle temperament, playfulness, and natural born hunting instincts make the perfect combination for either a family dog or a great hunting partner. She is a hypoallergenic, non-shedding ball of fluff and fun. At her size she can go anywhere with you.

Yet underneath that strong and active exterior is a lot of labor and commitment to protecting their loved ones. When it comes to maintaining their health, you need to understand how much to feed a Boxer puppy. We have included a Boxer puppy feeding chart to help you take care of this breed. The daily food intake for a Boxer may range from one cup to four cups. Meal sizes for Boxers depend not just on weight but also on the sort of food they eat. Due to their medium size, boxer puppies need three daily meals and around four cups of food every day. Keep in mind that RER is only a rough estimate of how many calories your dog requires per day; other variables, including their age and activity level, will need to be included in as well. Keeping the puppy clean and warm is essential during this time, as is giving it enough milk or formula to help it thrive. Choose a premium puppy food that has been developed with their unique nutritional requirements in mind. Provide modest, regular meals three to four times a day. At the beginning, feed the puppy just a quarter to a half cup every day, and gradually increase the quantity as it grows. Always have clean water available, and keep an eye out for any symptoms of food intolerance or gastrointestinal distress. To keep them healthy, give them high-quality puppy food in many little meals throughout the day. Exercise, socializing, and the introduction of obedience training should all be high priorities. Keep a close eye on their eating habits and weight gain, and alter their food intake accordingly. This is a pivotal time for training and socializing, so be sure you provide lots of both. It is important to keep feeding them three times a day, and to stick with a high-quality puppy food. Provide around 2 and a half cups of food daily, split between three meals. Starting now is a great opportunity to introduce more advanced training methods like obedience or agility programs. Throughout a day, give them around 2 and a half cups of food. This is a pivotal time for further education and integration into society. Feed them around two and a half to three cups each day. Throughout this phase, they are still learning new skills and interacting with others, making it an essential part of their development. Provide two meals daily, adjusting the quantity of food based on their weight. Maintain a program of regular exercise and training, and watch out for any signs of age-related health decline. Boxer pups need a high-protein, moderate-fat diet for optimal growth and energy. Bone health may be supported by making sure the meal has enough calcium and phosphorus. Depending on its age and degree of activity, the calorie requirements of a Boxer puppy may range from around to 1, per day. A Boxer puppy requires between — calories per day when they are 8 weeks old, and — calories per day when they are 6 months old. Authentic meats and seafood, whole grains, and produce should all be included as ingredients on the label. Puppies of different ages have different dietary needs and feeding schedules. A Boxer puppy of 6 weeks old has to be fed times a day, with each meal consisting of only a few bites. Puppies need to be fed three times a day until they are three months old, then twice a day until they are 12 months old. Training and housebreaking are aided by establishing a consistent eating pattern. Yet, the two are not identical. Dry kibble offers the advantages of being portable, simple to store, and lasting for a long time. Crunchy kibble is good for your teeth because it encourages chewing, which may reduce plaque. Yet, some pups may prefer wet food because to its increased moisture content and inherent tastiness. In addition, it may help you stay hydrated, which is crucial to your health. The preference and dietary requirements of each puppy are unique, thus the choice between kibble and wet food must be made carefully. An animal hospital is the best place to get advice on what to feed a Boxer adult dog. Many factors might be at play if a Boxer puppy suddenly stops eating. Illness, stress, dental issues, and even just a change in habit may all cause lack of appetite in Boxer pups. Sometimes getting a puppy to eat may be as simple as presenting a more appetizing food, feeding it by hand, or making mealtime less of a stressful experience. Leaving food available for a puppy to graze on all day is considered free feeding, which is not advised for Boxer pups. Since free-feeding might induce overeating and weight gain, it is not recommended for Boxer pups. High-quality protein from genuine chicken initially supports muscular growth. This natural dog food has all the nutrition your puppy needs with whole grains, garden vegetables, and fruit. Pros Real chicken first ingredient for protein Contains DHA and ARA for cognitive function Wholesome whole grains, garden veggies, and fruit A blend of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals No chicken by-product meals, corn, wheat, soy 2. Real chicken is the first ingredient in this tasty, nutritious puppy chow, delivering protein for strong muscles and a healthy heart. It also has a SmartBlend of high-quality, readily digested omega-6 fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals for a lustrous coat and healthy skin. Four antioxidant sources for strong immune system High-quality, easily digestible ingredients. Delicious crunchy bites and tender meaty morsels. Cons Contains some corn and wheat 3. This high-quality kibble for pups under 1 year old has actual chicken as the first ingredient and no chicken by-product meal, maize, wheat, or soy. Omega-3 fatty acids like DHA help brain and ocular development and deliver protein. Pros High-quality protein for muscle development and growth No GMO, chicken by-product meal, corn, wheat, or soy. Brain and eye growth from omega-3 fatty acids like DHA. This formula contains high-quality protein from lamb and omegarich fish oil to create lean muscles and enhance brain and eyesight development. Pros Protein-rich lamb is the first component. Omega-3 fish oil DHA for puppy brain and visual development. Calcium, phosphorus, and other minerals for bones and teeth, Vitamin A and omega-6 fatty acids for skin and coat Cons Lamb, may not suit all pups 5. Pros Flaxseed and salmon oil contain omega-3 fatty acids Grain-free Created by vets with protein, fat, and minerals Cons Not for ingredient-allergic pets. Raw feeding a Boxer puppy is a contentious issue with no clear consensus on whether or not it is healthy for the dog. Yet, some owners and vets are worried about the potential for bacterial contamination and nutritional imbalances in a raw diet, despite the fact that others feel it might give advantages including better digestion and coat health. Also, choose a reliable raw food supplier. The typical growth rate for a Boxer puppy is pounds per week for the first several months of life. A Boxer puppy, depending on its size and gender, may gain pounds by the time it is 6 months old. To make sure your Boxer puppy is developing normally, keep an eye on his or her size and weight. A constant supply of cool, fresh water is essential for the health of a Boxer puppy. Puppy development necessitates that they consume more water than an adult dog would. Puppies need half an ounce to an ounce of water per pound of body weight every day. A Boxer puppy weighing 20 pounds, for instance, should need 10 to 20 ounces of water each day. Puppy water consumption should be closely monitored to prevent dehydration. Peter My name is Peter and I am a dog lover. I have two German Shepherd dogs, one of which is called Biscuit because his coat is very light with brown patches. My wife and I moved from the UK to Ohio where we now live with our two daughters. We love squash on weekends and following the English Premier League closely! Previous Article. Besides a nutritious diet, Boxer owners must know the right time to feed their pups. Boxer puppy feeding schedule is made easy with this Boxer feeding chart. Larger and stronger Boxer pups push their weaker siblings aside to get the most food. This is why many Boxer breeders and owners make sure that all puppies get enough food. Two week old tiny Boxer puppies are new to this world and rely completely on the Boxer mother. They should always stay with their mother because her breast milk is their main and only source of nutritious food. During this period, two week old Boxer puppies open their eyes for the first time. However, they are still dependent on the Boxer mommy. Even though they are double the size at three weeks of age, Boxer pups are still nursing. During the period between four to six weeks, their teeth grow bigger and the Boxer mommy will wean them off soon. At four weeks of age, the Boxer mother starts weaning her puppies. To help the Boxer puppy transition from milk to store-bought puppy food, it is time that you try making puppy mush. Try offering your Boxer pup this mixture up to four times per day but make sure not to overfeed it. Too much puppy mush can cause your Boxer pup loose stools and diarrhea. However, most Boxer puppies will need some time to fully get used to their new diet. That said, you will need to soften the puppy food that your seven week old Boxer puppy is eating. You should give your Boxer puppies high-quality food three to four times a day. Boxer puppies at this age love to eat, so make sure not to overfeed them two cups per day. This means that your Boxer puppy is totally ready for proper mealtime! The feeding schedule should include: breakfast, lunch, and dinner. They will also have more energy, which may necessitate consuming more calories or eating larger portions. Its little body needs all the nutrients from high quality food it can get. At this point, your Boxer puppy eats twice the amount of food an adult Boxer dog would eat. Even though your eleven week old Boxer puppy has an enormous appetite, you must not leave food to its own will. So, every time it is done eating, you should pick up the leftover dog food. Make sure to separate the amount of food in 3 to 4 smaller portions through the day. At six months of age, the Boxer puppy is growing rapidly and you might want to consider home-cooked dog food or introducing it to a raw diet. High-quality commercial dog food is packed with necessary nutrients, but nothing can replace a good home-cooked meal! The period between seven to twelve months of age is when you will want to give your Boxer puppy less food than you would feed a 5 month old Boxer. At twelve months of age, Boxer puppies will do well with two meals per day. However, this depends on the health state and development of your Boxer puppy. If the Boxer pup is more on the skinny side, then you should feed it more food than described in feeding charts. Just make sure to ask your vet to help you develop a balanced diet for your Boxer pup. Fully grown male adult Boxer dogs reach between 65 to 80 pounds, whereas adult female Boxer dogs weigh a bit less, reaching anywhere from 50 to 65 pounds. Adult Boxer dogs should be fed two meals per day — breakfast and dinner. The most important thing is to take away leftover dog food when your Boxer dog is done eating. Due to the fact that the Boxer dog breed is prone to bloating a life-threatening condition , owners and breeders should be cautious around feeding them too much food. If you have owned Boxers or if you are currently a proud owner of the Boxer, then you know how highly energetic these pooches are. Well, due to their high energy levels, Boxers require a lot of exercise. With frequent exercise comes heavy calorie burning after which your Boxer dog needs more food! Besides high energy levels, Boxer dogs are medium breed dogs that inherit faster metabolism than an average medium-sized dog. That said, Boxer dogs require food that is rich in calories and nutrients to make up for the energy that they use during the day. The best Boxer food will be one that is made for active dogs and includes all the vitamins and minerals they require to stay healthy and fit. Young Boxer puppies should eat more than a cup per day, while older Boxer puppies can consume up to three cups daily because their nutritional needs are higher. Adult Boxers require about 40 fewer calories per pound of body weight than puppies. That said, daily food intake for adult Boxer dogs typically ranges from 3 to 5 cups, depending on their weight. Adult Boxer dogs should be fed twice a day, while Boxer puppies must be fed 3 to 4 meals per day. All dog breeds require basic ingredients in dog food such as protein, carbs, fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals. But the Boxer dog breed is a bit different. Because Boxers are hyper dogs with insane energy levels! So, a good diet for a Boxer pup must consist of basic ingredients, but you may also want to boost it with home-cooked food and supplements. This is why you have to choose the best source of protein for your Boxer dog. Poultry, beef, and seafood are excellent sources of animal protein for Boxer dogs because they are easy on their digestive system. Fatty acids like omega-6 and omega-3 are great for your Boxer dog because they give its coat extra shine and make its skin healthier. With a proper diet that is packed with vitamins and fatty acids, Boxer coat colors become more vivid and its coat sheds less! Fruit and veggies are also great for Boxer dogs because they are packed with vitamins and minerals which are essential for a healthy metabolism. Dairy products like whipped cream and blue cheese should either not be given at all or given in very small amounts. Grain-Free Diet What makes the Boxer dog breed different from other medium-sized dogs is that they are prone to developing Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus bloat. This means that the majority of Boxer dogs will have to go on a special diet. Grain-free diets are usually recommended for adult Boxer dogs in order to avoid bloat and other digestive system issues. We can say that Boxer dogs have more sensitive stomachs than other dog breeds. Not only can these ingredients trigger canine bloat, but they can also cause food allergies. Supplements Sometimes a simple diet for your Boxer dog is simply not enough. Due to their rapid growth and high activity levels, Boxer dogs need to keep their joints in tip-top condition. So, you want to search for food supplements that contain glucosamine chondroitin — compounds that are essential to joint health. Moreover, Boxers are prone to elbow and hip dysplasia which is why these supplements are of utmost importance. But, the Boxer dog breed is a bit different than the rest. Now, I know that this is an ongoing dilemma to the majority of Boxer owners, as there is no correct answer. Dry Dog Food Despite the fact that many Boxers dogs may prefer wet over dry dog food, dry kibble is preferable to keep their teeth and gums healthy, and their jaw strong. The crunch of a hard kibble will help to some extent to remove plaque, but you will still need to provide some at-home dental care. Pure kibble diets are perfectly acceptable to give to your Boxer dog. Additionally, you can boil some chicken or give your Boxer dog some raw meat. Boxers love those! It is perfectly fine to feed your Boxer dog a pure kibble diet. But, you will want to make it a bit more interesting by adding some dog food toppers, cooked or raw meat, fish, and vegetables. Wet Dog Food Wet food has more water, which keeps Boxer dogs hydrated throughout the day. Compared to dry dog food, wet food has higher fat content which is a no-no for Boxers that are prone to canine obesity. For most Boxer dogs that are prone to heart disease like cardiomyopathy, wet food with high fat content may be too much. Different Boxer dog life stages require different food amounts. Besides the life stage your Boxer dog is in, we should take into consideration that Boxers are medium-sized dogs, which means that they require a healthy diet that is specially designed for medium breed dogs. Age Earlier in this article we have mentioned that Boxer puppies need a special diet that consists of a higher percentage of protein, carbs, vitamins, and minerals. This is perfectly understandable because Boxer puppies need a healthy diet to grow. Additionally, Boxer puppies are always on the go and their bodies burn calories like crazy! In contrast to young Boxer puppies, old Boxers need to be fed a healthy diet that has a lower content of protein and fat. Naturally, the metabolism of a Boxer dog slows with age. So, due to the fact that many senior Boxer dogs are less energetic and more on the lazy side, they burn fewer calories. A slower metabolism is one of the main reasons why older Boxer dogs become obese because excess calories from high-calorie dog food are converted into fat. Failure to feed a diet designed for the unique requirements of medium to large-breed puppies like the Boxer can lead to health issues such as canine arthritis , hip dysplasia, cardiomyopathy, and obesity. This is why you have to choose Boxer food that is designed to control the amount of calories and calcium consumed in order to reduce the risk of these health issues. Gender Regardless of the gender, all Boxer dogs need the right nutrients that will help them stay healthy and strong as they grow. However, the nutritional needs of male Boxer dogs greatly differ from those of female Boxers. Research shows that intact male Boxer dogs eat more than their neutered counterparts. Which is pretty obvious due to the fact that intact male Boxer dogs go crazy when they show signs that they want to mate. In fact, intact male Boxer dogs are known to roam and jump fences in order to get to their ladies. Roaming and chasing those female Boxer beauties burns away all the calories! So, intact male Boxer dogs are always hungry! Neutered Male Boxer Dog Upon reaching sexual maturity, intact male Boxer dogs often become restless and impossible to handle. This is the period when you can see signs that your male dog needs to be neutered. Neutered male Boxer dogs have lower energy needs than their intact counterparts. After having your Boxer dog neutered, you have to put it on a special diet to ensure a fast recovery. In fact, you will need to cut the food portion in half because neutered Boxer dogs require fewer calories. If your neutered male Boxer dog starts to lose weight, you can reintroduce a gradual increase in food. Intact Female Boxer Dog Intact female Boxer dogs typically need fewer calories than both intact and neutered male dogs. Intact female Boxers that are fed the same diet as intact male Boxer dogs are more prone to obesity and heart problems. Spayed Female Boxer Dog Boxer dogs that have been spayed or neutered have lower levels of estrogens and androgens, which, just like in neutered male Boxer dogs, lowers their metabolic rate. Therefore, the spayed female Boxer dog requires less energy. After surgery, the appetite of a female Boxer dog might increase because estrogen has been shown to suppress hunger. To ensure that your spayed female Boxer maintains a healthy body constitution and condition, the amount and type of food must be changed. Pregnant Female Boxer Dog Once your female dog starts showing signs of pregnancy , get ready to learn more about what a feeding schedule for a pregnant pooch looks like. Start by offering your pregnant Boxer dog smaller and more frequent meals rather than large portions. Pregnant Boxers will have less space in their tummy for large amounts of food so make sure to keep the balance between small meals. Additionally, her diet should consist of a lot of soluble carbohydrates along with a little fiber. One of the most crucial minerals for pregnant Boxer dogs are calcium and phosphorus. These minerals support healthy bone development of unborn Boxer puppies. Activity Levels Boxer puppies, adolescents, and young adult dogs that are in perfect heath have insane energy levels! This means that their activity levels are high and they need regular exercise. When your Boxer pup runs all over the place, it needs a lot of nutritious food to feed those muscles! Boxer dogs that receive these optimal levels of dietary protein are more likely to perform to their full potential. Besides healthy protein intake, active Boxer dogs need a bit of carbohydrates. If you notice that your Boxer dog is gaining more weight , simply feed it less, and if they are becoming underweight, feed more. Lazy Boxer Dogs Adult Boxer dogs differ from one to another and have different activity levels. While active adult Boxer dogs normally active require 30 calories per pound of body weight, lazy Boxer dogs require less calories per day to maintain their overall health and avoid becoming obese. Senior Boxer Dogs The majority of senior Boxer dogs frequently prefer canned or raw food over dry dog food. Maybe it is because their teeth are not as strong as before, or simply because of the added moisture found in canned dog food. Even though senior Boxer dogs tend to eat less because they are less active and have slower metabolisms, they require dog food that is high in energy, antioxidants, and fatty acids. This is why senior dog food for Boxers features a healthy balance of antioxidants and fatty acids. Senior Boxer dogs typically prefer smaller portions that are given more frequently throughout the day rather than two fully loaded bowls a day. What Foods Should Boxers Avoid? As we mentioned in the grain-free diet part, Boxer dogs should avoid any dog food that contains wheat, corn, or soy. These ingredients are merely fillers for your Boxer dog, offering little to no nutritional value. In fact, the majority of food allergies in dogs are triggered by grains such as wheat and corn. Besides these common dog food ingredients, Boxer dogs should avoid human food like chocolate, macadamia nuts, milk, avocado, candy, and spicy food. Cooked bones should never be given to Boxer dogs. So, when cooking bone broth for your Boxer dog, make sure to get rid of all cooked bones. Boxer dogs are known to have sensitive stomachs. If your Boxer dog ingests food that is toxic to its digestive system, chances are that it will throw up yellow or develop diarrhea. It is best to consult with your veterinarian and go over any worries you have about what foods your Boxer dog should avoid. While many Boxer dogs simply have an insane desire for food, an increased appetite also known as polyphagia can also indicate a number of health problems. For example, Boxers with diabetes often show signs of polyphagia or an insatiable appetite. These can be signs that your senior dog with diabetes is dying. Besides health issues and all that serious stuff, Boxer dogs can simply inherit a faster metabolism which makes them always hungry. Owners are understandably worried when their Boxer pup abruptly stops eating or gradually loses interest in food. In the absence of other symptoms of health issues, a Boxer not eating is typically not a cause for concern. Normally, stress, reaction to medication, and changes in their environment, can all cause a Boxer pup to stop eating. Boxer puppies that are in their teething period like to nibble on people or objects, rather than consuming their puppy food. Some Boxer pups experience severe discomfort and pain while teething which reduces their will to eat. A Boxer puppy may frequently stop eating due to intestinal parasitic infestation or infections that cause upset stomach. The lack of appetite in Boxer puppies could be a sign of a serious issue like a blockage or poisoning. In other cases, Boxer dogs can lose their appetite due to internal obstructions, pain, and dental issues. The best food for your Boxer dog is usually food that is made for active dogs. While most Boxer owners prefer the Royal Canin brand, there are other commercial dog foods across the U. The majority of Boxer dogs inherit a sensitive stomach, so it is best to avoid bad food brands and to consult your veterinarian about the best dog food that you can find. Conclusion Give your hungry Boxer pooch all the nutrients they need to stay healthy and live a long life! The best way to keep a Boxer pup happy is by giving it nutritious food and lots of exercise. This Boxer feeding chart explains how much food a Boxer needs based on its activity levels. So, I believe that you have gotten the hang of this feeding guide! Make sure to ask your Boxer breeder for additional tips and tricks. Even though this Boxer feeding chart answers the most common questions about Boxer diet and feeding schedule, in case your Boxer puppy is showing signs of health issues, call your veterinarian for a check-up. Related Content. Your dog may suffer from indigestion if they are fed too late at night. A Boxer may struggle to acquire weight at times. Having three meals each day, including snacks, can help during this time. Adult Boxers should be fed in the morning, noon, and evening. Scheduled feeding times should be established early on to prevent weight-related diseases. Adult Boxers on a two-meal diet should eat in the morning and evening. Never let your dog exercise vigorously after a large meal, especially if they eat rapidly. This prevents bloating , intestinal obstruction, and other serious digestive problems. Introduce fewer carbs and consider nourishing their intestines and giving them micronutrients that help fight off disease-causing microorganisms. The following is a top-notch selection of Boxer food: Dry Food: Your best bet is to feed your Boxer dog grain-free kibble or dry kibble. Some even advocate dog food with human-grade ingredients. High-quality kibble containing animal protein formulated specifically for the growth and development of lean muscle mass in Boxers. Wet Food: Wet food is another commercial dog food option. If you want raw feeding for your Boxer, be sure to consult a veterinarian first, as raw diets can be tricky to prepare. Home-Cooked Diet: Aside from raw food, you can feed your Boxer home-cooked food as well. Always get your meat and other ingredients from reputable butchers and merchants to avoid potential problems. There are benefits and drawbacks to each of these dog food options mentioned above. But, for the most part, these are the best food options for the Boxer. If you are in doubt, seek the advice of an animal nutritionist or veterinarian. However, Boxers are susceptible to skin allergies caused by these products. To have a grain-free diet for your dog, you should look out for ingredients like brown rice, wheat, corn, and barley. Chocolate: While chocolate is a delicious treat for us humans, it can be harmful to your Boxer. The stimulants in chocolates, known as methylxanthines , make them toxic for dogs. It could be fatal if your dog has consumed cocoa powder, cocoa butter, or cooking chocolate. Fatty Meals: Pancreatitis outbreaks in dogs can be blamed on fatty meals. A veterinarian should always be consulted before feeding a dog a new diet. Call a veterinarian immediately if you believe that your Boxer dog has consumed something hazardous. Some dogs may have stomach upset and even appetite loss if you suddenly switch to a new high-quality food or diet. This shift should occur within a five- to seven-day time window. American Kennel Club AKC advocates starting with 25 percent of the new food for your Boxer and gradually increasing it until all of the old food has been replaced with fresh food, based on the same ratio. Below is a table showing what the AKC recommends as a standard diet transition plan for most dog breeds, including Boxers: Day. However, you should still consult your vet or pet nutritionist to be on the safe side. You should feed your adult Boxers two times a day, with 12 hours of spacing between meals. Ideally, one in the morning and one in the evening. You should feed your senior Boxers two times a day except given a specific schedule by a vet. As a general rule, you should feed your boxers a few hours before going to bed in the evening, so they have enough time to digest the food before going to sleep. Treats should be heavily used as a reward when training your dog. The food you feed your Boxers should specifically cater to large breeds and contain the required nutrients necessary for a strong and healthy dog. The kind of food to feed your Boxers includes dry dog food, wet dog food, a home-cooked diet, and biologically appropriate food to ensure your dog eats a balanced diet. Let me touch on these few points to help you understand what to feed your dog: Dry Food: Dry dog or kibble is a portion of commercial pet food made by grinding and mixing up ingredients like meats, grains, and nutritional additives, which are then shaped into little kernels and cooked at high temperatures to remove the water content. Dry dog contains more carbs, less fat, less water, and sometimes less protein, and is often recommended by vets due to its lower cost, dental health benefits, convenience, weight loss support, and playtime perks. Wet Food: Wet dog food, or canned food, is made by mixing up and cooking the ingredients before adding or extracting varying amounts of water. Unlike dry dog food, wet dog food contains more water, fewer carbs, more fat, and often more protein. They are recommended by veterinarians due to their high water content, taste, ease of eating, and high nutritional profile. Home-Cooked Diet: Home-cooked diets are a great option for pet parents who are not into commercial dog food, and want to go the extra length to prepare a meal for their furry companion. Feeding your dog a home-cooked meal will give you control over its nutrition and can put you at ease knowing that you will always give your dog the best treatment. BARF Diet: Biologically Appropriate Raw Food is a type of food that contains raw meat, raw eggs, crushed animal bones, fruits, vegetables, probiotics, and other natural ingredients. BARF diets are used as a substitute for processed foods with preservatives. However, consult your vet before feeding your pet a raw diet to avoid health complications from harmful substances. They have large appetites, which makes it tempting to hand them whatever we find ourselves eating. There are certain human foods, fruits, and vegetables to avoid feeding your Boxers because these foods contain toxins that are harmful to your pet that could lead you to frequent trips to the vet. Human food to avoid feeding your Boxers includes chocolates, coffee, gums, peanut butter, candies, cooked bones, etc. The Fruits and vegetables to avoid feeding your Boxers include grapes, avocado, garlic, onions, etc. You should always check the ingredients on the food label to see if these ingredients are present in the food. Or you can simply consult a vet or pet nutritionist to check the ingredients with them. Puppy food contains more calories and nutrients than adult food to meet the nutritional requirements at that stage of life. Your boxers will not eat if they have one or a combination of the factors listed below: Illness, dental problems, tooth medication, separation Anxiety, time of day, spoiled food, stress, and picky eaters Boxers are prone to having dental problems, and a major sign of this is bad breath. If you notice consistent bad breath from your pup or if your pup is not eating or drinking water, consult your veterinarian. You should visit the vet. Boxers and most dog breeds are ravenous feeders, which is why meals must be arranged in strict order. This goes hand in hand with training your dog from an early stage. You must avoid free-feeding your dog, as this might cause them to bloat and lead to stomach issues. An alternative reason might be if your dog is engaged in too many exercises, is under stress, or is infected by worms; if your dog is in any of these categories, then it may be why they are always hungry. Do boxers eat a lot? Boxers are notorious eaters, and if they are not trained properly, they may eat to the point of developing stomach issues like bloating. Boxers are large and thus will need adequate and proper training to keep them on a straight and healthy diet. Can boxers become vegetarians? The Boxer breed can live on a vegetarian diet as long as this diet consists of all the essential nutrients required by the Boxers to thrive and grow optimally. If you are taking your dog on a vegan diet, then ensure that meals contain micronutrients that may not be present in a vegan diet. You should consult your vet or pet nutritionist while planning your vegan meals to ensure your Boxer does not encounter any health complications. Can boxers eat bones? Boxers can be fed raw, not cooked, bones, as this will encourage healthy bones and teeth and, as a bonus, contain a lot of micronutrients that may not be in their food. However, you ensure that bones fed to your dog are deboned after two to three days to prevent infection. Some guidelines concerning this have been stipulated by the American Kennel Club. You can feed your boxers different types of human foods, such as beef, chicken, pork, turkey, salmon, tuna, and eggs. They can also be noodles, oatmeal, sweet potatoes, unsalted peanuts, parsnips, and other foods such as rice and pasta, yogurt, cheese, and peanut butter. Boxers can eat many types of fruits, such as strawberries, apples, bananas, raspberries, peaches, mango, pears, blueberries, plums, melon, pineapple, oranges, and kiwi fruit. They can also eat vegetables such as pumpkin, carrots, peas, corn, cauliflower, spinach, cabbage, broccoli, and more. However, you may need to feed them supplements if you feed them home-cooked meals as recommended by your vet or dog nutritionist. Final Thoughts on Feeding A Boxer? Boxers are adorable and strong dogs that can thrive on balanced, rich nutrients. Pet parents have to take special care in structuring the diet plan of their beloved pet to ensure that it grows most healthily and strongly. Options such as dry, wet, raw, and homemade diets are all great for them. You can free-feed your Boxer as a puppy, but you have to draw up a strict plan as they go on. It is also essential to know what foods are healthy and should be avoided, as some are toxic. However, if you desire more information on how to take care of your Boxer, you should contact the nearest vet for information on essential nutrients, and you can also see a pet nutritionist for a regimen schedule for your pet. David Cassiel As a biologist and dog enthusiast, I have gained valuable experience and knowledge through my internship at a veterinary hospital and my personal ownership of multiple breeds. My passion for dogs and expertise in areas such as nutrition, care, and training drives my goal of providing a helpful resource for dog owners through my pet website. Find More Search for: Affiliate Disclaimer We may earn commission from Amazon and other retailers when you make a purchase through our links. You can learn more about our affiliate disclaimer here. And, I'll go out on a limb to say I bet those early Boxers ate dog food with less additives and fillers than found in today's formulas. That is of course, unless you're armed with information on sourcing the best possible modern foods for feeding Boxer dogs! Adult Boxer dogs require 1, to 2, calories of good quality dog food per day depending on age and activity, with an averagely active adult dog somewhere midrange. Being a muscular breed that is highly active, Boxers require quality protein in food at a slightly higher level than many less active breeds. Credence should be given to invest in a quality kibble dog food with high protein and caloric value or go with a Raw Dog Diet , especially for active Boxers. Bloat Concerns This breed is prone to bloat, Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus , so grain free kibble and raw diets are a great option for feeding Boxer dogs. Carbohydrate and fat levels are less a concern when feeding Boxer dogs, yet Boxers are know to put on extra weight rather easily. Low carbohydrate diets should be fed to overweight dogs and the breed ideally should be slim, stocky and muscular. To learn how we choose quality kibble formulas, or for help selecting your own, visit our Feeding Dry Dog Food section. For a great alternative to kibble and food we highly recommend for Boxer dogs, visit our Raw Feeding Dogs section. Supplements As with any medium to large breed dog, providing a food that includes supplements adds additional insurance towards good health. To maintain your Boxer's joint health, foods containing chondroitin and glucosamine are awesome. If your kibble doesn't include these compounds, they can be supplemented separately with a product such a Cosequin. For a shiny coat and to promote skin health, foods with Omega-6 fatty acids are wonderful. For control of inflammation or arthritis pain in older Boxer dogs, support the heart, kidneys and stabilize overall mood, Omega-3 fatty acids are great to see on an ingredients panel. Just like Cosequin however, Omegas can be fed separately and as needed by simply squeezing a gel capsule over your Boxer's meal. In summary, feeding Boxer dogs about 2. Amount fed may go up or down based on your dog's size, weight, age and overall daily activity. Feeding Boxer Dog Puppies Quality formulated all life stages food and several small meals a day for a Boxer dog puppy. Your Boxer puppy will grow rapidly through the first six to eight months. Similar to any medium or large breed puppy that is susceptible to bone growth issues like hip dysplasia, feeding a quality all life stages, large breed puppy formula, or Raw Dog Food diet will help regulate growth. Boxer puppies can eat! Two to three regulated servings per day is recommended, do not free freed. There's an unwritten rule in among Boxer enthusiasts to feed at least twice as much food daily that your puppy would eat as an adult, In multiple regulated servings. Begin by following feeding guidelines per the label provided on your chosen Kibble Dog Food Formula. Increase or decrease the amount fed by assessing your Boxer's body weight and energy as he or she grows. From age 6 to 8 months on, the rapid growth phase should cease and while still technically a puppy, your Boxer can be transitioned to an adult diet. This includes higher protein foods yet many who were already feeing an all life stages formula can continue with the same. As always with both puppies and adult Boxers, keep an eye on your dog's weight. You should always see a trace of the last rib with this breed and they should appear slim, yet muscular. Adjust amount fed per serving accordingly to maintain that perfect Boxer appearance. And lastly, with all dog breeds that are prone to bloat, feeding Boxer dogs several small meals a day is a safer bet than free feeding, or one HUGE serving! Don't forget to check out our Feeding Dry Dog Food articles which focus on selecting a quality kibble for your Boxer dog. And, if there's another mid-size dog in your pack, Feeding Medium Size Dogs provides access to a library of breed specific feeding guides. For help choosing kibble dog food for your Boxer Dog plus additional info about raw feeding, visit our Homepage for quick banner access to the major sections of our website! Male boxer puppies would be around 17 inches or more during their 6th month while females will be slightly smaller at around 16 inches. Birth to 3 weeks old When your boxer pup is still very young, they should be with their mom and be nursed properly. Keep in mind that your boxer should get equal amounts of milk, especially if they belong to a large litter. Observe the litter for any signs of bullying or some puppies being overpowered. This is also the case if the mother is too thin to supply milk to all of her pups. When your puppy reaches 3 weeks of age, you might start to notice rapid growth. That is normal for boxer puppies since the breed tends to grow faster than most dogs. Boxer pups of this age still need to be nursed. To do this mix 1 part puppy food with 3 parts water in a bowl and offer it to them. It also helps to train your pups to only eat when they are hungry. A good rule of thumb in terms of scheduling for the water and puppy food mixture would be 3 to 4 times a day. You want the process to be a pleasant one for your boxer pup. This is when the weaning process becomes slightly visible. The mother dog will slightly let go of her little ones for them to be independent. Keep them away from dangerous objects and supervise them as much as possible. Ensure that their food is easy to chew to avoid eating problems. If your vet allows for it, you can add some veggies or other food ingredients that are deemed safe for pups as advised. Your puppy will need more nutrition by this time so they need to learn to eat solid puppy food. After all, 6 weeks old is a time for exploration, playtime, and energy bursts whether indoors or outdoors. You may also want to feed them more if they spend a lot more time playing or running around. Once your puppy reaches 7 weeks old, they should already know how to eat their solid food. Give them the serving somewhere between 3 and 4 times a day depending on your available time and their hunger pangs. Your boxer pups will also get nursed less often during this time, as the mother will likely just stand up while giving milk reluctantly to her little ones. She might even run away from them at some point, allowing them to become more independent. Keep their meals served at 3 to 4 times a day, with at least 2 or more cups per day, divided equally. You can also follow the chart that we mentioned above, especially if your boxer pup is quite the active fellow. Having more cups a day is important for puppies that have far less weight than others. You can also ask your vet about how many calories they need depending on their energy levels. Know the activity levels of your puppy and adjust accordingly. If your boxer pup is always on the go, they might need more calories than usual. Moreover, a 9-week-old boxer pup might also roam around and pick various objects to ensure that their surroundings are kept puppy-proofed. Bloating comes from excessively gobbling food so make sure they only get equal portions for their daily meal schedules. While we did say that boxer pups during this period are likely to eat twice as much as a regular adult boxer, always observe if your puppy is getting overweight by checking their waist. Talk to your vet if you suspect your pup might be gaining too many pounds. Always keep in mind to avoid bloating problems with your pup by ensuring the schedule gets followed. Continue with the usual puppy food or as instructed by your vet. Recommended Food Now that your boxer puppy has a set schedule, what should you feed them? Here are some suggestions: 1. Quality Kibble Like most active breeds, dry kibble is the way to go if you want affordable and easy-to-store food for your boxer puppy. Worry not — there are grain-free options in the market. Wet or canned food If you want added calories for an active boxer puppy, consider wet food. After all, canned puppy food is tasty to most dogs, especially during their puppy years, since the smell is enough to get them eating. Omega fatty acid foods Boxers are prone to cardiomyopathy, which can be lessened if they take foods and supplements rich in omega fatty acids, such as fish. Talk to your vet for a diet plan that will help lessen the likelihood of such eye problems. Glucosamine foods Hip dysplasia is common in boxers so we recommend foods that are rich in glucosamine, such as chicken feet and seafood. Consider looking for either kibble or canned puppy food that has glucosamine to help prevent hip dysplasia and other joint problems. Look for primarily meat-based puppy food rather than cheap commercial brands. Commercial brands out there may have more corn and wheat than protein from meat. Instead, look for slightly pricier yet more quality brands of puppy food for your boxer. And, as usual, you should also stay away from human foods that are toxic to dogs, such as grapes, chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, artificial sweeteners, and the like. FAQs on Feeding a Boxer Puppy Boxer pups need extra care when it comes to their diet — here are some frequently asked questions with regards to feeding them properly: When do I switch to adult food for my Boxer puppy? By this time, you can slowly transition your puppy to adult food in portions. Should I give my Boxer puppy supplements? As a workaholic dog breed, boxer pups need protein and other nutrients, which are fortunately already in most quality dog food brands. Raw feeding a Boxer puppy A raw diet is okay for boxer puppies provided that you get expert advice from your vet about it. Raw feeding is no walk in the park since you need to do the math on calories and nutrients as compared to commercial food. Also, take note of food handling to avoid bacterial infection, especially if you live in areas where humidity is high. If you need help, talk to a breeder or someone you know tried raw feeding before — especially for puppies. Conclusion A healthy and energetic boxer puppy will be a satisfied life companion if you feed them properly. All you need to know is that boxers are typically workaholics so they need to have a balanced diet with sufficient calories based on their activities. We hope this helped you figure out how much to feed your boxer puppy! Every bite of food will be detrimental or beneficial to this breed's health. Overview Food is fuel both for a growing Boxer pup and large strong adult Boxer dogs. The type of food that you offer for both meals and snacks has a direct affect on your Boxer's health both now and in the future. Also of importance is a feeding schedule and making sure that you offer the proper amounts. This section will cover everything you need to know in order to provide a well-balanced, nutritious diet for your Boxer puppy, adult, or senior. How Often to Feed a Boxer Puppy or Dog Let's look at a summary and then the details: Puppies under 12 weeks: free-fed Puppies and up to the 2-year mark: 3 meals per day Adults 2 years and up: 1 to 2 meals per day Young pups 8 to 12 weeks old: Very young pups, and particularly those that are a bit underweight, should be free-fed for at least the first month at their new home. This is the method of having fresh food accessible at all times. For a pup still trying to gain their bearings, you may need to lead them to their bowl throughout the day. Note that food should be thrown out and the bowl washed and then refilled several times per day as opposed to just topping off the food since pups may not be interested in stale food. Growing pup to 2 year mark: It's best to get a Boxer onto a feeding schedule as soon as possible. Schedules of anything feeding, exercise, sleep time, etc. Young Boxers often struggle a bit to fill out and during the 1 to 2-year mark Boxers can go through a 'skinny phase', so 3 meals per day, plus snacks, can work well during this time. Adults 2 years and up: Most adult Boxers that have reached their final adult weight and height do well with 2 meals per day, plus snacks. If snacks are regular and of substance, a Boxer may be perfectly content with 1 main meal per day. Note that this breed is prone to bloat, so you want to avoid letting a Boxer get so hungry that he rapidly gulps his food down. If that is the case, increase the frequency of meals or use a slow-feed bowl; stainless-steel is best, something like Mr. How Much to Feed a Boxer Puppy or Dog The exact serving size that is appropriate for each Boxer varies and depends mainly on age and current weight but also is affected by activity level, health status, type of food wet vs dry , and individual metabolism. This said, there are general guidelines: Puppies usually require about 55 calories for each pound of body weight. Young pups might eat a bit over a cup a day, older pups can eat up to 3 cups a day. Adults need fewer calories per pound of body weight than their younger counterparts, about .Depending on an adult Boxer dog's size, food is usually in the 3 to 5 cup per day range. To know exactly how much to give your Boxer, know your dog's weight. Don't guess since that can be wildly off. Then, look at the feeding guidelines on the bag of kibble; these are listed by age and weight and are usually pretty spot on. Dry Kibble vs Wet Canned Though many Boxers may prefer wet canned food, dry kibble is better to maintain healthy teeth and gum and a strong jaw. You'll still have to provide some level of at-home dental care , but the crunch of a hard kibble will work to some extent to remove plaque. Additionally, dry food seems to keep the stools firmer and healthier. If your Boxer is a finicky eater and balks at dry food, try mixing in just a bit of canned stick with the same brand or add just a bit of water or low-sodium chicken or beef broth. Grain vs Grain-free It's wasn't that long ago that putting a dog on a grain-free diet wasn't much of a big deal. Some grains, especially those with gluten, can cause excessive gas , upset stomach, and other issues. And, some dogs are allergic to wheat or gluten which can manifest as itching and other skin problems. But recently, a suspected link between certain grain-free dog foods and dilated cardiomyopathy DCM, a canine heart disease caused veterinary experts to take pause. And, since Boxers are one of the breeds prone to DCM, it's important to understand where things are on this. Though it was first thought that any grain-free diet may be the cause, the current thought is that it is a BEG diet, meaning boutique small specialty brands that have exotic meats non-traditional meats like alligator, kangaroo, bison, venison, etc. Many more studies need to be done for conclusive answers to be found. For now, it is recommended to offer healthy grains and this can be done while avoiding gluten if your Boxer has an issue with it. Navigating the Many Choices of Dog Foods What to Avoid: Many brands are guilty of having at least one of these elements that you do not want your Boxer's food to have: No grains at all. Until conclusive studies are complete, play it safe and offer a kibble with some level of healthy grains unless the veterinarian recommends otherwise Boxer needs to be on a specific grain-free diet, etc. Synthetic preservatives. These can be toxic. Butylated hydroxyanisole BHA , butylated hydroxytoluene BHT , and ethoxyquin, just to name a few, are linked to behavioral issues, organ damage, and some forms of cancer. Artificial coloring. Common dyes like Yellow 5 and 6 and Blue 2 are linked to behavioral and health issues. Artificial flavor enhancers. MSG is one of the worst, it is linked to anxiety, rapid heartbeat, and breathing issues. Generic animal digest, meats, oils, or fats. When anything is listed as 'animal', it is derived from a 4-D animal: dead, dying, diseased or disabled animals and can literally be any meat from any animal at all: minks from mink farms, roadkill, zoo animals, expired meats from supermarkets and butcher shops, etc. Fillers are cheap ingredients that are put into dog food to bulk it up but they have little to no nutritional value. The 'food' goes right through their system; a dog will eat but be hungry again soon afterward and this is one cause of coprophagia eating feces. These are the animal parts that are not fit for human consumption and includes such things as spinal tissue, lungs, spleens, hooves, tails, undeveloped eggs, etc. Made outside North America since meats from overseas can be questionable. The kibble will be preserved using a vitamin blend often listed as mixed tocopherals and will be naturally flavored and colored. Some level of grains. Grains that are generally well-tolerated include rice, oatmeal, and quinoa. Wholesome real meats, veggies, and fruits. Some ingredients sourced from Norway are fine; this country has very strict guidelines. If you are not sure what is in your Boxer's food, investigate it. Know about grain content and the presence or lack of additives and subpar ingredients. Recommended Dog Food for Boxers Please note that the following recommendations are formulas with some level of healthy grains; if you did not read the previous ' Grain vs Grain-free ' you may wish to do so before continuing on. This meets all of the requirements of what you're looking for. There are no synthetic preservatives; vitamins are used instead shown as mixed tocopherals. The grains in this formula are generally very well tolerated: quinoa technically a seed , oatmeal, and barley. There are 3 different recipes to choose from: beef, chicken, or lamb. Other ingredients include peas, salmon, carrots, apples, blueberries, and flaxseed. There are good levels of glucosamine chondroitin vital for joint health , antioxidants, and omega fatty acids important for skin and coat health. There are no by-products, fillers, or generic meats or oils and this is sourced and made in the USA. For this one, the base is chicken a very classic tasty protein that most dogs love , along with oatmeal, brown rice, ground barley, peas, flaxseed, carrots, tomato pomace, spinach, sweet potatoes, apples, and blueberries. All other ingredients shown on the label are either vitamins and minerals or natural preservatives. This has no wheat, corn, soy, meat by-products, artificial flavors, colors or preservatives, and this is made in the USA. This brand offers a top-quality formula that is gluten-free. There is no wheat, corn, soy, by-products, artificial flavors, artificial colors, or chemical preservatives. The base is chicken and brown rice and other ingredients include white rice, oatmeal, rice bran, avocado, flax seed, herring, and kelp. It has good levels of omega fatty acids and antioxidants. The one trade-off for having it be gluten-free is that it does not contain any fruit; however, it does have all required vitamins and minerals and you can always offers a small amount of fresh fruit as snacks. Homemade Vs Commercial Commercial dog food is convenient and, if you choose a superior brand, it will ensure that your Boxer receives all needed nutrients and is on a well-rounded and well-balanced diet. And, home cooked food gives you complete control over what your Boxer eats and does not eat and can be tweaked to satisfy a finicky eater. So, there are pros and cons to each. Whether you opt for a top-quality kibble or you use good cuts of meat and fish and fresh produce in homemade meals, neither option is super-cheap. Because, of course, you get what you pay for. But, if you buy in bulk and lean toward frozen vegetables and fruits, home cooking may be a bit less expensive. That said, when you prepare meals at home, you'll need to offer a good daily vitamin and mineral supplement even good brands of kibble need to add this in because it's nearly impossible for a dog to receive all nutrients just from food alone. Some of the foods that can be incorporated into meals include: Proteins: Chicken, turkey, veal, beef, fish mackeral, haddock, salmon, whitefish, cod, and others , eggs, and certain beans kidney, lima Vegetables: Carrots, broccoli in moderation , potato, sweet potato, sugar snap peas, green beans, spinach Fruits: Blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, pumpkin Grains: Quinoa, oatmeal, rice Related Articles: Best Snacks, Chews, and Treats for a Boxer - A great rundown of the difference between these 3 things and top recommendations. How many calories does a Boxer dog need - Requirements based on age, size and activity level. Recommendations to lower or raise intake. Boxer dog weight issues - This breed can become overweight, usually due to a combination of eating too much and being sedentary. Boxer begging behavior - Boxers are pretty good at playing their humans and it's easy to fall into the trap of giving in to begging. Read how to stop the cycle. Choosing the Best Bowl for a Boxer - Size, height, material and design are all important. Your vet can run the necessary tests and examine your puppy to determine the cause. Male Adult male Boxers are slightly larger than females. Males weigh an average of 60 to 70 pounds, requiring 3 to 5 cups of food. This weight range requires 2 to 4 cups of food per day. On top of a caloric increase, an active Boxer will also need a protein-rich diet to feed their muscles. A protein-friendly, calorie-dense dry kibble should be offered, and you should follow the instructions based on their weight. Image Credit: boxerdogmadness, Pixabay Sedentary Boxers tend to become overweight quickly if you overfeed them—blame their voracious appetites and love for snacking. This food offers a low-calorie alternative without skipping out on necessary nutrition. However, what really happens is that it decreases their metabolism rate, slowing their energy. This slowing process can cause weight gain if you continue to feed them the same amount of food. The puppies always get the nutrients first. So, if you have a food that is lacking in certain areas, the mother will suffer. Image Credit: Pixel-Shot, Shutterstock Boxer Feeding Guide for Seniors Just like puppyhood has special dietary requirements when dogs reach a certain age, so does old age. Seniors need to eat foods that cater to their life stage to keep them capable, happy, and healthy for their remaining years. A Boxer transitions into the senior category, usually around 6—9 years of age. If you have your dog on dog food for all life stages, it might be appropriate to continue this diet. A lower-calorie food will also help to prevent your dog from becoming overweight. If your senior has specific health issues, it might be best to feed them a specific diet that helps with their condition. As time goes on, you can work with your vet to accommodate their special dietary needs. It is formulated specifically for later years. Some dogs have voracious appetites that are never satisfied. It seems like you barely get it into the bowl before they suck it up like a vacuum cleaner. Free-Feeding—this practice involves making food available to your dog at all times. The danger with this method is that large dogs like Boxers are susceptible to bloat, or gastric dilation-volvulus GDV. Bloat happens when the dog eats too quickly, causing gas to fill the abdomen. It can be fatal. This method can also make overeating seem like the norm, which causes bad manners. Feeding your dog smaller, more frequent meals is a better alternative to free-feeding. Slow-Feeder Bowls—a great way to slow your pooch down, allowing them to digest their food properly, is to give them food in a slow feeder. It gives your Boxer unique designs to eat around, stimulating their mental curiosity while slowing them down. What Foods Are Bad for Boxers? Some things to look out for are: Corn.

Tweet Looking for free German Shepherd puppies? If you are looking for a German Shepherd, and your budget is tight, you can find your new best friend nearly free or at a decent price. You just have to know where to look. Most of the dogs they place are one year or more, but they often have puppies as well. This normally includes vaccinations, a heartworm test, and spay or neuter. For about one third of the price of a purebred GSD from a reputable breeder, you can give a deserving dog a second chance. Rescue groups specialize in finding forever homes for lost, abused or unwanted German Shepherds. They have extensive knowledge of every dog they place and can normally match you with the right dog for your unique situation. Do you have a German Shepherd rescue success story to tell? Adopt a German Shepherd It may take some patience and persistence, but you can find a nearly free German Shepherd from a local shelter. If they don't currently have puppies, check back often. Or ask them to call you as soon as they get one. The adoption fee will normally cover an initial vet checkup with puppy shots and a spay or neuter. This is cheaper than the cost of a purebred German Shepherd from a rescue group. One quarter of all shelter dogs are purebreeds. Why adopt a dog? You may be their last hope. Many shelters only hold dogs for a week. If they are relinquished by their owner, they are on the short list for euthanasia, as they are not considered lost and no one will be coming to look for them. My Begian Malinois , Ryder, was 48 hours away from being put down after his owner signed him over. Search for a local animal shelter. Don't make price your primary consideration. Backyard breeders and puppy mills price low to sell quickly. Avoid these unscrupulous breeders. Even if an ad reads AKC registered dogs , this is not necessarily a sign of a quality dog. Be aware that Puppy Mills also use this as a lure for unsuspecting buyers. Exercise patience. You don't have to break the bank. Your new best friend is worth the wait. Jennifer here. I've been a fan of the German Shepherd breed for as long as I can remember. They are loyal, intelligent and beautiful animals and it breaks our hearts to think of them suffering or dying in shelters. Our team is made up of dog lovers who give up their time to find loving forever homes for our dogs. Most of our dogs come from shelters where they have been abandoned. Some come from owners who, no longer able to care for them, give their dog to us to find a loving forever home. The good news is that we encounter few dogs that have been abused or seriously mistreated. What do we do? Each dog that comes into our program is carefully evaluated and then placed into a foster home. No boarding kennels for our dogs! We passionately believe that by living with our dogs we can learn more about them. Once we have spent some time getting to know each dog, we make the dog available for adoption. When you apply to adopt one of our dogs you will go through an adoption process where we learn more about you, your experience and your lifestyle. Our goal is to offer you a service wherein you find your perfect dog! You can help! Many of our adopters decide to volunteer and help more of the dogs. Some prefer to donate. So thank you! This helps us get a picture of you and the type of dog that you are looking for. We'll contact you! Just click "Adoption Application" 2 We contact you One of our adoption counselors will call you within 3 days and have a chat about your application. They will ask you to text some pictures of your fencing, gates and where your dog hangs out. If the right match is made, you will be able to adopt your dog, there and then, and take your dog home! That really is it! If you can help, click here Application to send us your application. Then, email us here foster gsrnc. Not all of our rescue Shepherds are lucky enough to go directly into a foster home; some have to start in a kennel. Every rescue dog must be in a foster home before it can be adopted. In a foster home it will experience the love, care, and attention it needs and deserves while it is waiting to be adopted and we will observe the personality of the dog to help place it in the best possible forever home. Our network of rescue volunteers is there to help you with advice, and Rescue pays for the care of the dog including food and authorized veterinary expenses. Won't you consider fostering a German Shepherd who wants a second chance at a happy life? Fostering is a very rewarding experience, not only for you, but for the dogs too! Join us on October 7th for Wags to Riches! Register now before we sell out! Help us save dogs while putting yourself in the running for some great prizes! Click on the "Lucky Dog" for full details and to order tickets! Shop online at Pet Food Express by clicking on the puppy. Visit Our Dogs on YouTube.

Nutritional requirements of a German Shepherd What exactly should the diet of a German Shepherd consist of for optimal health? Protein from quality meat sources 2. Essential Fatty acids and omegas 3. Natural vitamins and minerals from bone and plant sources 5. Hydration — high moisture foods and drinking water 1. Protein When selecting what to feed your German Shepherd, choose a diet with high-quality animal-based protein sources, such as beef, chicken, turkey, lamb, duck, eggs, and fish. As such, protein impacts canine health in many ways, including: Providing consistent energy Forms new skin, hair, nails, and other tissue. Keeps the immune system healthy. Makes hormones, enzymes, and antibodies. Properly balanced fats are essential for optimal health, and also provide energy. Dietary fat we generally refer to as a triglyceride. There are two types of triglyceride, saturated and unsaturated fat. In balance, they promote a healthy coat, skin, eyes, nervous system, control hormones, fuel brain and learning, and reduce inflammation. Carbohydrates, such as vegetables and some fruits, provide fibre, prebiotics food for beneficial bacteria , and antioxidants that are lacking in meat alone. Dogs are carnivores, but they can benefit from some vegetation in their diets for optimal health. Natural vitamins and minerals A raw food diet aims to replicate what dogs evolved to eat in the wild. As such, meat, bone, offal and a small amount of plant ingredients are all important ingredients in the diet of a German Shepherd, each adding highly beneficial vitamins and minerals to meal times. Incorporating ground bone in meals or providing recreational bones for enrichment add nutrients that will support digestion, skin and bone health, and mobility. As such, water is a vital nutrient for all cells, systems and functions, including: The regulation of body temperature Maintaining healthy organ function. The digestion and absorption of nutrients. Detoxification; water helps to flush out toxins and waste products from the body. Preventing dehydration which can lead to serious health problems, including kidney damage and heat stroke. Lubrication and cushioning of joints, thereby supporting ease of movement. Discover more about a raw food diet for dogs in our complete. German Shepherd raw feeding guide Whilst you could create homemade raw food meals for your German Shepherd, dog owners new to raw feeding can often find making their own raw dog food meals complicated. Formulating meals with the appropriate ratios of key ingredients is essential to ensure your dog receives optimal nutrients, so going it alone can seem daunting. The good news is there is a much simpler approach. By choosing a reputable supplier of pre-prepared raw dog food supplier, you can stock your freezer with quality raw food meals at the click of a button. German Shepherd Feeding Chart. Simple Guide To Feeding A Raw Diet Jun 01, Raw diets are controversial diets that are new to many people, but as old as the domesticated dog itself. Raw diets are gaining in popularity at a phenomenal rate. It's now at the point that raw diets can even be found pre-made at not only pet stores, but in the cold food and freezer aisles at grocery stores. Here's what you need to know about making your own. Dogs can get all the nutrition they need from the meat, organ and bones found in prey animals. Check the end of the article for foods to avoid. The PMR gets it's name from the fact that it mimics the contents of a prey animal by their meat, organ and bone content. To make raw feeding simple, keep it simple and relax. Again, keep it simple and relax. Simply feed more when you notice the weight loss. No need to panic. If you're switching from kibble to raw it's normal to be nervous, but exercise common sense and you'll be fine! What about sourcing food to keep things simple? You can buy in bulk at the grocery store, and talk to the butchers that are working in the meat section. You can also visit your local butcher, talk to local farmers; and even contact restaurant supply companies if you have the freezer space or a lot of dogs. Speaking of freezer space, buy a deep freezer. The bigger the better. You'll be glad you have extra space if you come across a good deal on lbs of meat and it'll make raw feeding easier! What should you buy to keep a raw diet simple? Simple answer: Buy what's cheap! Chicken necks and backs are very inexpensive, so are chicken quarters and livers. You can also buy whole chickens and cut them up. Avoid chicken that has "added salt solution. Chicken quarters, thighs, legs and necks with the skin can be fattening. You should trim the fat off if your dog isn't active or is overweight. Raw poultry bones are probably going to be your 1 source of bone. Pork is also cheap, but certain parts like pork bellies are very fatty. Pork necks contain a lot of edible bone. As far as beef goes, there are lots of inexpensive cuts of beef that are mostly for stewing and contain little fat. Cuts like sirloin tri-tip roast, top chuck roast, first cut chuck roast, top blade roast, bottom round roast, chuck shoulder roast and bottom round rump roast are inexpensive and good for the base of your dog's diet. Fish, especially oily fish are very healthy. Feed at least twice a week. Organ can be tricky to source. Many Asian and Latino food markets have organ for sale. You can also try local farms. Many simply throw out organ. If you can't find what you're looking for, many raw diet vendors exist online. You can have frozen organ delivered to your door on ice! Sourcing bone is easy. You'll do it by accident when feeding bony cuts of poultry mostly. Your dog's droppings will be much harder when feeding raw. This often results in healthier anal glands. If your dog's stool is too soft, add more chicken necks, feet, backs, pork necks, ribs etc to solve the issue. If your dog seems to have too much difficulty going, you should cut back on the bone. Now you know what to feed, how much to feed and even where to source your dog food, but here's where we make it really easy. A lot of people meticulously weigh their food and prepackaged and freeze a week or even a month's worth at a time. They balance each meal with an exact amount of meat, organ and bone and it takes hours! The secret is that not every meal has to be balanced. You don't weigh and balance each meal of your own, do you? Your diet balances itself out over time. You can do the same with your dogs raw diet. Instead of a lot of pre-packaging, simply thaw out 3 days worth of meat and bone and 3 days worth of organ. Just mix and match meals and let them balance over time. For example, on Sunday you could put 3 days of frozen chicken quarters, beef chuck, mackerel and calf liver in the fridge to thaw. Then you have meat ready to put in your dog bowls from Monday - Wednesday night. On Wednesday evening, you could put 3 days worth of goat meat, turkey necks and sheep kidney in the fridge to thaw. When it's time to feed on Thursday morning, add a sardine or 2 if canned, make sure they're canned in water , as well as a raw egg with shell to your dog's breakfast. Do the same Thursday, Friday and Saturday morning. That's 3 eggs and sardines from Thursday-Saturday 3 eggs a week are plenty. That also covers every meal from Thursday-Saturday. On Saturday evening, take out another 3 days of food and repeat. Now you're on an easy schedule where you don't have to bag entirely balanced meals for every meal of every day of the week. You've cut down your bagging from 2 or 3 meals a day per month meals prepped to 10 pre-packaged 3 day meals a month! Remember, just relax! I do suggest you start by weighing your food, but after a couple of months you'll be able to eyeball how much food is enough for each of your dogs. If you notice a dog seems to be losing or gaining a little weight, that's no problem. Dogs lose and gain weight very fast. Just feed a little extra, or a little less depending on the circumstances and you'll notice the difference in your dogs weight inside of a few days. Once you master eyeballing the amounts of food to feed and learn to eyeball your dog's weight, scales become unnecessary, which will save you more time and make things that much simpler. To conclude, I said that I would go over items to never feed. Wild pork and bear alike can contain parasites. Farmed pork in the US and Canada are safe. If you procure wild deer, elk, goose, rabbit etc, be sure to freeze it for 3 weeks. Also remember 1. No wild pork and no bear ever. Not even after freezing. It can contain a bacterium that's dangerous to dogs. Canned salmon and mackerel are cooked and perfectly safe. Farmed, raw salmon is also fine and usually comes from Norway. Fish, especially oily fish, are very healthy. Avoid fish with sharp spines and barbs, like catfish, unless they're removed. They are hard and will cause premature wear, or even breakage of the teeth. If the prey animal is bigger than about 10lbs, only feed the spine and ribs to be safe. No leg bones, pelvis etc. Please do your research so that you know what vegetables and fruits are safe to feed! Avoid cow's milk completely and limit cheeses and yogurts. Make sure yogurts are plain. Grinding up meat mixes the germs on the outside of the meat all throughout the ground meat. Also remember that ground meats don't contain bone unless otherwise specified and do not have the added bonus of cleaning teeth. Feed the leanest ground products possible. Thank you for reading. It's impossible to have a full, comprehensive conversation about raw feeding in an article. This is a guideline for those who are interested. I suggest you read books and source information from several authors and friends who feed raw to best educate yourself. This type of diet has some possible disadvantages as well, including the following: A higher cost to feed your dog, compared to commercial diets Dangers of feeding raw meat, such as salmonella food poisoning or E Coli infections Skeletal problems, such as bone fractures Greater chance of food allergies A more complicated diet plan that takes up more time and effort. This type of dog food is also usually fresh and not stored for long periods, whereas most commercial diets can be stored for months. Many companies sell premade raw food plans for German shepherds. These are typically either whole carcasses or pre-ground food that comes in bone-in or boneless form, and can also come ground for easier meal prep. Some diets are created so they have less need for supplements, but it is still important to read the ingredients list to make sure you know what your dog is getting each day. Some vets are advocates of this type of diet for dogs, but others are not. If possible, get a second opinion from another vet. Yes, a german shepherd can eat a raw diet. A gradual transition is recommended over trying to make too many changes at once. Transitioning to this type of diet may require some extra effort on behalf of the owner. My brother and his wife adopted a 1-year-old purebred GSD from the local rescue who was fed kibble her whole life. This dog had an expensive surgery that required us to pay for it thank goodness we could do that! My brother tries to keep up his diet, but he works from home. His girlfriend has a hour commute every day! The dog is only fed kibble at night when she gets home from work. I would like to think that this is not the case, but after watching my sister-in-law do this the dog gets overly excited for each bite. See also Male vs. And then she poops sorry TMI. And then when she comes home from work she immediately goes outside to defecate. A few weeks ago, the poop was bloody. They saw the vet again, and the doctor said she has food allergies. Everyone wants to know what it is so they can change her diet. I want to be supportive of them…but the dog was doing so well on raw! Their friend gives them kibble, and the first kibble she tried of course it was their fault! So now all of these options are closed to them. The choice to feed your dog a raw diet is an individual one. As with any type of food plan , there are benefits and disadvantages of feeding this way. This type of food plan can take more time and effort than simply feeding kibble because it requires the owner to do extra preparation when making each meal. This is especially important in the case of raw meats, which must be stored correctly and safely before they are given to your dog. Most people who choose a fresh food plan for their GSD seem to do so because of the health benefits they see when feeding them this way. They find that their dog has fewer skin problems, allergies, yeast infections, and other medical problems than they did before. Many dogs also tend to have more energy, better coat quality, and improved dental health when given raw meat instead of commercial food. Although it can be an expensive dog food plan with all the preparation involved, the benefits may make the extra cost worthwhile for you. However, there are some disadvantages to feeding your dog raw food. This type of diet can be dangerous if not prepared correctly, especially when you are talking about meats and the risk of food contamination. There is also an increased chance of skeletal issues like bone fractures, especially with large or powerful breeds like German shepherds , who need high levels of calcium in their diets. For many people feeding their dog raw food is a new experience, and they are often unsure how much to feed. Several factors play an important part in determining the amount of food to be given. The size of the dog, its metabolism, or activity level are all very important factors to consider when deciding how much raw food should be fed. The size and weight of the dog will give you a good indication as to how much food should be given. Generally speaking, if you feed your German Shepherd puppy three meals a day, then an average meal would be around g — g for male dogs and — g for female dogs. However, there is no definite answer as to what is the best amount to feed your dog. There are many factors involved when feeding your dog, so it is merely a guide based on averages. Sprouted seeds — Sprouted seeds are extremely healthy for your German Shepherd too, although for some reason they are not as popular as raw meaty bones. You can sprout them yourself or purchase them from your local health store. You can cut up small pieces of hard vegetables such as carrots, apples, etc, and feed them to your dog each day as a treat. Dairy products — Dairy products are suitable for dogs, especially those not affected by lactose intolerance. Plain yogurt is healthy and can be given to dogs as it contains many beneficial bacteria that aid digestion. Cottage cheese is a nutritious dairy product and contains around 22g of protein per g serving making it an excellent source of protein for your dog. A small amount can be mixed in with their dry food each day to add extra flavor and make the meal more interesting, or you could add some water or milk and feed it as a wet meal. Commercial dog food — Commercial dog food is not as healthy as raw meaty bones, sprouted seeds, and vegetables however it can be fed as an alternate to the regular diet, especially if you are going away or need a break from making homecooked meals for your German Shepherd. As long as the commercial food is healthy, it can be fed instead of raw food for a few meals here and there. You can find these in meaty bones especially the liver , vegetables, fruits, and dairy products. Feeding whole foods is the best way to ensure that your dog gets all of the vitamins and minerals it needs. See also German Shepherd Allergies German Shepherd Puppy And Raw Diet German shepherd puppies on a raw diet are often healthier than dogs fed commercial kibble because raw food is better suited to their digestive tracts. There are numerous benefits for the German shepherd puppy when switching from a processed diet to raw meat that includes weight gain, healthy skin and coat, better dental health, increased energy levels, and larger bone structure. When feeding a german shepherd puppy on a raw diet, you should note that not all raw food is appropriate for puppies. Bones should be excluded in the beginning, green beans and mushrooms can be dangerous for their health, and bones in beef necks are not recommended because they could splinter. It is important to check with your vet before you start feeding your German shepherd puppy on a raw diet. Blocks of frozen raw food can be bought from pet stores and your butcher may also be able to get hold of german shepherd puppy food. Make sure that the raw food is not completely thawed out before you give it to your German shepherd puppy, as this can cause bacteria growth on the meat. Feeding a german shepherd puppy raw food will meet these needs, as well as provide the minerals that are needed for healthy bones. Raw meat is not recommended for all dogs, including German shepherds. If you are not keen to feed your German shepherd puppy on raw meat, you can still give it a healthy diet by feeding it high-quality dry kibble without grain fillers. Conclusion When deciding to feed a raw diet to german shepherds , it is important to speak with a vet to determine if this diet would be appropriate. The article above offers tips for those who want to feed a raw diet as well as those who prefer their German shepherd puppy to eat dry kibble or a combination of both. As always, thank you so much for reading! If this was helpful at all, please share it with people you know who would like this information as well. Have a great day! Peter My name is Peter and I am a dog lover. I have two German Shepherd dogs, one of which is called Biscuit because his coat is very light with brown patches. My wife and I moved from the UK to Ohio where we now live with our two daughters. We love squash on weekends and following the English Premier League closely! Previous Article. Key Takeaways A raw dog food diet has a high nutritional value beneficial for German shepherds. The digestive system and general behavior of the German Shepherd breed account for the diet tendencies. One of the easiest raw dog food recipes for German shepherds: Grind 3 lbs ground meat, 2 lbs organ meat, and 3 lbs fruit and vegetables. I love the German shepherd breed! They are beautiful dogs with such strong personalities. German shepherd dogs GSD can and should eat a lot of raw meat, considering they are one of the closest relatives to the timber wolf. Wolves are carnivores, which is why such dogs have a genetic predisposition to similar traits like hunting. It is for this very reason why pet owners often seek raw dog food recipes for German shepherds as this is healthier and more affordable in the long run because you get to save those trips to the vet. A beefy mix recipe with 3 lbs ground meat, 2 lbs organ meat, and 3 lbs fruit and vegetables is one of the simplest meal you can prepare for your German shepherd. Commercial dog food is not the best alternative for these dogs as they require a high-nutrient diet. Choosing the best fresh dog food or raw diet is the perfect option. Raw Dog Food Recipes for German Shepherds Homemade raw dog food is easy to make as meat is the main ingredient in all recipes. Eating raw meat is a natural thing even for a German shepherd puppy. However, when making raw food for your pets, observe food safety and only get ingredients from reputable sources. The following are a few you can use for your furry friend. Beefy Mix Beef is the go-to protein for dogs considering it is readily available and one of the more affordable options. A German shepherd dog would particularly appreciate both beef muscle and organ meat. This raw dog meal can also be mixed with different vegetables to make a palatable meal. Ingredients Three pounds of ground beef muscle meat Two pounds of beef organ meat One pound of cut spinach One pound of broccoli One pound of mixed berries Preparation Cut the organ meat into small cubes if you cannot grind it. You can mix the organ and muscle meat with even distribution. Blend the spinach, broccoli, and berries in a food processor. Add water to make a puree. Mix the vegetables with the meat combination with even distribution and divide them into small containers. Turkey and Veggies Turkey meat is uncommon in most dog diets, but it is an ideal option for dogs with food allergies [ 1 ] to chicken or beef. It is also low in fat, so it is excellent for weight loss. You can use it as the base protein for your meal plan for your German Shepherd. Ingredients Five pounds of ground turkey Two pounds of turkey organ meat One teaspoon of dried rosemary One pound of broccoli One pound of mixed berries Preparation The first thing would be to combine your meats, so mix the ground turkey muscle meat with the organ meat. Make sure the organ meat is cut into small cubes or ground, so it is easier to combine with the muscle meat. Chop the vegetables, carrots, and berries into small pieces and blend them in a processor. Mix the blended vegetables with the meat combination and separate the whole into small containers. Tuna with Vegetables Like other meat options, tuna is an excellent alternative for German Shepherds. These fish are rich in protein, vitamins, and minerals, which are great for your dog. It also has omega-three fatty acids, which are suitable for its skin and cardiovascular systems, promoting activity. By Yuliya Matvyeyeva Here I am, standing in the middle of my front yard, holding a huge dish of frozen raw sardines, " like a flower lady ," as my friend said, surrounded by a pack of German Shepherd puppies of all ages. Like it wouldn't be easier to just give everyone some dry dog food, which is researched and perfectly balanced, just for dogs, right? Let me say this: dogs are very healthy animals by nature. They are not prone to cancer, kidney or liver failure, skin problems, etc. I spent my entire life with dogs, around dogs, in dog clubs, at dog shows, etc, and through all these years I had only heard of one dog that had cancer. I lived in a country where commercial dog food did not exist, farm animals were never treated with hormones and antibiotics, and ALL pet owners were feeding raw, or they prepared meals for their dogs using ingredients from the same sources that they would use for themselves. Not necessarily the same ingredients, though, as they would use such great by-products as lungs, stomachs, udder, and connective tissue to feed their dogs. Also, dogs were not routinely spayed or neutered at an early age. During my first two weeks in the USA, however, I personally met two dogs dying from cancer. I thought it was a coincidence, but I was shocked to find out how many pet owners have lost dogs to this disease, as well as were battling many chronic conditions in their dogs, including kidney, liver, and digestive problems, allergies, really poor dental health, etc. All of them fed commercial brands of dog food, sometimes those recommended by their vet. Vets go to school to study the internal systems of many different types of animals and birds. They also study different animal diseases and how to treat them. They are doctors, not necessarily nutritional experts. Their focus is in helping sick or injured animals, not how to produce healthy, top quality dogs with outstanding coats, joints, bones, skin etc, which can perform at shows and trials, or be used in a breeding program. Also, most vets usually have only a very general idea about the proper weight of the German Shepherd Dog. Most often you have to cut that amount almost in half for your German Shepherd puppy. German Shepherd puppies need to stay very lean while growing. They will grow large, and strong, and fit. If you like a heavier dog, you will always be able to let him "fill in" later, but please do not destroy his growing joints with excess weight during the early growth period. So, back to feeding your dog. Of course everyone knows that a dog is a carnivore. When they chew things, they only do so to cut their food down into pieces small enough to swallow. Being carnivores, dogs have a very difficult time digesting grains. They also have different enzymes and acidity levels in their stomach. So when pet food companies use soy in their products, it increases the amount of protein that they can put on the label, but how much of that plant protein will your dog be able to use? When you feed your dog raw foods such as meat with bones, fat, and organ parts, your dog digests this raw food completely in about hours, producing very small stools. Feeding your dog kibble is no doubt very convenient, just like eating in a fast food restaurant. Sure we all can survive a Big Mac now and then, but imagine eating fast food every day of your life, all your life. What kind of health would you have? They are much better than your typical commercial dog food, but they are still over-processed and "dead. Due to the numerous health problems that arise from feeding commercial dog food, and also due to the recent unfortunate deaths of many dogs because of tainted food, I feel it is necessary to share how we feed our dogs raw, not only with my puppy owners, but with anyone interested to educate themselves on the subject. Feeding raw might be a little more time consuming than just filling a bowl with kibble, especially in the beginning, but as you get into a routine of doing it and establish reliable sources of your raw ingredients, it really becomes just about as easy. The base of our dogs' diet is chicken. It is inexpensive, readily available, easy for dogs to digest, and is a great source of bones and fat. Feeding skinless chicken breast is not a complete raw diet! Below is an approximate raw menu that you can use as a guideline. The great thing about feeding raw is that you don't have to perfectly balance every single meal for your dog. I know some of you have the horrifying picture of spending hours grinding and mixing endless bloody ingredients, trying to achieve perfect percentages, and worrying that you are out of liver today. Feeding raw is much simpler. Whatever type of raw food you have today, just hand it to your dog. Over time, say over a week, try to provide variety and balance. Puppy 8 to 16 weeks - 3 meals a day: When raising a puppy, I start each morning with a short, minutes training session, and use boiled beef liver as treats cut into small cubes. I use a lot of treats in the beginning, therefore the following breakfast is light. When short on time, I simply scatter the treats in the grass to have the puppy search for it. She never feeds her working prospect puppy from a bowl! The amounts of food that I suggest here are for an 8-weeks old puppy. As your puppy grows, start increasing the amounts gradually, so that by the age of 16 weeks he is eating about twice as much. For example, if it sais to give 1 small chicken back to an 8 weeks old puppy, then the amount to give to a weeks old is 2 small backs, etc. Please don't feed two chicken backs in one feeding to an weeks old pup, that's just way too much. Also, constantly monitor your puppy's condition the amount of fat on his ribs. If in doubt, it's better to err on the thinner side! If the puppy is a little too chubby, decrease the amount of food he is getting for at least a week. Breakfast: 1. Every other morning I give the following mix: 3 tbsp. Twice a week add 1 raw egg yolk to this meal. The cottage cheese that we use is "Friendship," no salt added. I'm sure there are other good brands, but make sure that the ingredients are: milk. That is what cottage cheese is made out of, and there must be nothing else, except maybe for some vitamins. This is important for you too, go for pure products for your family as well. When it comes to yogurt, I actually prefer the type called "kefir. This is the real deal. I actually enjoy a cup now and then myself - it's just great for you on so many levels. When they are out of "Helios," I use a different brand, " Lifeway, " but it is not quite as great as "Helios. All there needs to be is milk and cultures, but you will also probably find that most of them have fiber added. That's OK. When grinding fruits and vegetables, the smaller you grind them, the better. You can use a blender, or do it manually. When adding ground fruits and vegetables, especially carrots , it is best to add a teaspoon of butter melted , or some sort of fat. This helps absorption of vitamin "A" a great deal. I favor carrots because it is believed by many that adding carrots to your dog's diet regularly will intensify the red in his coat. I don't know this for a fact, but it doesn't hurt, right? Also, blueberries, although expensive, are one of those "super-foods," packed with vitamin "C". Add them to your puppy's diet whenever you can, even if just a teaspoon. A cheaper alternative is sweet potatoes. Other mornings, I feed The Honest Kitchen products, according to the directions on the package. My favorite kinds for puppies are "Keen" and "Verve. Make sure to leave all the skin and fat on it. Dogs don't have cholesterol problems, and your dog really needs the fat, as it is an excellent source of energy for carnivores. By the way, if your puppy or dog is too thin, the healthiest and easiest way to have him gain weight is to increase the amounts of fat in his diet. Now, of course we have to talk about safe handling of raw chicken, or any other type of raw meat. If you buy in bulk and you should buy at least a few days worth , freeze everything except for the amount that you will use within the next two days. What will be used within the next two days should be stored in the refrigerator, under a plastic film or in a sealed plastic bag. Use one special cutting board for meat only, which should never be used for fruits and vegetables. Wash you hands with soap after handling of raw meat. All these precautions are so that YOU don't get sick. Can't they get sick from eating raw meat? Isn't Salmonella deadly? They have a very high acidity content times higher than humans! Think about them burying their prey in the wild for a few days to finish it off later - there is a very small and I mean tiny chance for your dog to become sick from consuming raw meat. It's much less common or dangerous than all the deadly things dogs get from eating kibble. One thing for sure - never boil or heaven forbid microwave the chicken for your dog. Boiling kills the whole concept of feeding raw, plus, if it contains bones, they can become brittle and very dangerous for your dog. Where do we get our chicken backs? Dinner: For the last feeding, choose one of the following meals: 1. Do not use ground beef. Instead, cut it into small pieces, or you can give one large piece to your puppy to chew on. No need to go for filet minion - any discounted piece of beef at your butcher will be great. Please do not buy those prepackaged meats, they are often full of "extenders," sodium, and who knows what else. Try to find a real butcher or a farmers market in your area, great for both your dog and your family. All skin and connective tissue included. Actually, I might still give it "bone in" to young puppies, but I watch them closely with it, and as soon as I see that their teeth become strong enough to chew through the bone, I stop giving them these bones. I know, raw feeding purists will say that they give thigh and drumsticks with the bone to their dogs all the time without any ill effect. But I can't help but worry about the sharp pieces that these bone can produce. Do not thaw. It might take a little while for your puppy to start accepting sardines as food - keep offering it, skip a meal or two if you have to - the benefits of feeding raw sardines are just too great. Being a fatty salt water fish, it is an unsurpassed source of Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids. By the way, I read somewhere that dogs don't absorb these essential fatty acids from flax seed or other vegetarian sources. These will do wonders for your puppy's coat and skin, brain tissue development, AND, while eating the whole fish, your puppy will also eat the plankton, seaweed, and other wonderful stuff that the fish was eating in the ocean - what a perfect way to add minerals and vitamins to his diet! Give this 2 times a week, and a weeks old puppy can even get 2 sardines in one feeding. I use "Blue Ridge Beef" prepackaged and frozen green tripe. It's just so much more convenient than struggling to cut a whole 50 lbs cow stomach into pieces! If you can't find "Blue Ridge Beef" products in your area they have a store locator on their website , find green tripe in a can at your local private pet store, brands such as BG Before Grain , Solid Gold, and my favorite, Tripett "Green Venison", make canned green tripe. Green tripe is an excellent source of digestive enzymes, and also half-digested particles of grass that the cow or deer was enjoying. Give this 2 times a week. Don't bother buying white bleached tripe sometimes found in grocery stores. It is stripped of all it's useful goodness and adds no value to your dog's diet. You can give your puppy beef or chicken liver, heart, kidneys, or a mix of these. I use "Blue Ridge Beef" prepackaged and frozen " Natural Mix " which is a mix of various beef organs, already cut up into pieces. Very convenient compared to cutting and mixing these myself. Give this times a week. Give this once a week, or more often instead of chicken backs. These make the perfect "chew" for your puppy. These will give any commercial "bacon-flavored," "dental," "smoked all natural," "disinfected and re-stuffed" bone that you find in a pet store a run for it's money. These raw marrow bones provide hours of entertainment, teeth-cleaning, help with teething, exercise not just for jaws, for the entire body - just watch your puppy working on it , and help your German Shepherd puppy's ears stand strong. Stock up on these and give them to your puppy every other day if you like. Remove and throw away the next day, even if unfinished. After 7 months of age I only give these occasionally, and only under supervision as hard bones like these can wear out their teeth. Especially this is true for aggressive chewers. Cooking vegetable stew for your puppy: I used to cook a great deal for my dogs, but after doing a lot of research, decided to switch them to a mostly grain-free diet. I made this switch about 3 years ago, and love the results. The dogs look fantastic, with healthy shiny coats, bright eyes, and they are full of energy. Plus, it makes my life much easier too: no need to cook a huge pot of food every day, no need to wash dishes, and much less clean up in the yard. However, I will still cook a pot of stew for them a couple of times a month. This gives me an opportunity to add all kinds of vegetables to their diet. Here is how I cook it: I usually use broth left from boiling liver for their treats, but you can use any type of home-made broth. Just boil some chicken, beef, or even use canned salmon to prepare it. If using raw meat, boil it for 30 minutes before starting to add veggies. Remove all bones when it's done, no cooked bones! When using canned fish, start adding veggies as soon as it boils. Canned fish bones are safe. No one really knows how much vegetables to give to a dog. Some people give none, and some give a mix of all of the above blended every single day. Like I said, I personally feed vegetable stew to my dogs about twice a month. Sometimes more often. I don't necessarily use ALL of the above ingredients every time, but try to add the majority of them. You can store this stew in refrigerator for up to days, and feed every day to your puppy while you have it. No harm can be dome with this. The amount to feed is about 1 soup ladle full at 8 weeks, 2 at 10 weeks, 3 at 12 weeks, 4 at 6 months to adult. By 8 months of age, the puppy gets cottage cheese mix about once a week, and the same is true for "The Honest Kitchen" food. Keep increasing the amount of food gradually, and keep watching your puppy's weight. You should be able to feel his ribs very easily, and see the two - three last ribs simply by looking at your puppy. If you don't see them, or if you feel a layer of fat as you run your fingers over his ribs, decrease the amount of food per feeding. It will take about a week before you can see the results. If there is no change after a week, decrease the amount some more. The same way, if you start seeing all the ribs when looking at your puppy, increase the amount of food per feeding and see if there is a change in about a week. It's impossible to give exact feeding amounts for each age - you will always have to "tweak" them, all along watching your dog's condition closely. Same with the ideal weight for a puppy of a certain age. There is no such thing. Some puppies have stronger bone and are heavier, some puppies are taller, etc. We never go by a specific weight for a puppy - we only watch his physical condition and adjust the amounts of food accordingly. An adult GSD eats 1. The amount of food per feeding can differ quite a lot from dog to dog. For example, when it comes to chicken backs, some of our dogs need 3 per day 1. Keep in mind that chicken backs are quite fatty. Sardines - we feed sardines to each dog per feeding. Organ mix, tripe, and lean beef - 2 lbs per dog per feeding. Again, these are the amounts that work for our dogs. What you need to do is to watch your own dog's physical condition and adjust the amounts accordingly did I say this enough times already? I know, but it's just very important. This list of foods is not set in stone - provide variety whenever you can, and use what you have available in your area. For example, during the deer hunting season we use deer ribs, necks, shoulder-blades, meat and trimmings a lot. Also, if you find a real butcher in your area, ask for tracheas and lungs. These are a great addition to your dog's diet as well. If you live near an ostrich or kangaroo farm - sure, go ahead and use this opportunity as well! Note: please do not feed treats to your dog throughout the day. You will most likely create bad habits and unbalanced nutrition. You dog doesn't need them, and "What a good boy! Reserve the treats for the training sessions. They are brittle and can damage your dog's digestive tract. If you've found this article helpful, please donate to show your support. Copyright .For information on making use of this article see Terms and Conditions This website was created by Template-Online. All rights reserved. Faster nutrient absorption Weight management A BARF diet ensures dogs eat fresh, wholesome, and allergen-free foods, as no chemicals, additives, or fillers are used in raw diets. Raw Dog Diet Research Increased lifespan. Generally, raw-fed dogs are so much healthier. The changes are profound. A study on feeding practices in the United States and Australia indicated that .Lisa M. Freeman Freeman, a nutrition professor at the Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine at Tufts University, tells WebMD many benefits attributed to a raw food diet for dogs, such as a shinier coat, are the result of the high-fat composition of the typical raw diet. Ingredient contamination. Raw ingredients pose a higher risk of contamination with potentially harmful pathogens i. Coli that can sicken your pet and possibly be transmitted to humans. Feeding whole bones to dogs presents a risk of choking, broken teeth, intestinal obstruction, or internal punctures. Nutritionally unbalanced. Raw allergies. Dogs might be allergic to raw ingredients. Wash all meats, organs, and other raw ingredients. Buy raw products from reputable grocery stores or butchers with high sanitary standards. Raw bones. Avoid big bones and feed only raw bones that are small or ground bones. Never feed cooked bones. They become softer after cooking and are more likely to splinter when chewed. Speak with a vet nutritionist. They can provide nutritional guidance to formulate the best German Shepherd raw diet or recommend a raw dog food delivery service. However, after two weeks of storage, most samples declined compared to salmonellae. We also analyzed the price for the most popular meats. According to the U. It might be cheaper. Conversely, buying commercial raw-meat food over traditional kibble is a tad more expensive, but we think the health benefits and convenience are worth the price. Read our feeding raw dog food on a budget guide for tips on how to feed raw for cheap. Choose lean cuts. Raw meat is the main source of protein. Builds and repairs muscles and other body tissues. Needed to make new skin cells, grow hair, hormones, enzymes and more. Ground bones are the safest choice. Avoid heavy or big bones - They can break teeth or get stuck in the digestive tract. Provide essential calcium, phosphorous, and other essential nutrients. Great source of high-quality protein; vitamins A, B12, B6; folic acid; iron; zinc; and essential amino acids. Organs are a great source of vitamins and minerals. The more organs you add to the diet of your dog, the better the mix of nutrients your dog will receive. Fruit such as apples, cranberries, and blueberries. Fresh herbs such as parsley, basil, and oregano. Never feed toxic fruits or veggies Fruit provide antioxidants while vegetables have carotenoids, flavonoids, antioxidants, and many other phytochemicals that are beneficial to immune function and health dogs. It states every dog meal should have six indispensable nutrients to create a balanced meal that supports life and proper function in dogs. These include protein, carbohydrates, fat, vitamins, minerals, and water. No fruits or veggies. Always consult with your vet. Adding a multivitamin like Zesty Paws Multivitamin Chews ensures your German Shepherd gets the recommended balance of vitamins and minerals. For common GSD problems like osteoarthritis and other joint maladies, look for products containing glucosamine and chondroitin , which may help treat or prevent symptoms. Do you have a busy lifestyle with little time to cook for your pup? This company is the pioneer of raw dog food. They deliver Biologically Appropriate Raw Food straight to your door. Their formula is a balanced blend of raw meat, fruits, vegetables, organs, and bones. All of their ingredients are USDA-sourced. Their formulas are developed with the input of a veterinary nutritionist to meet the nutritional guidelines set by AAFCO. The body weight percentage method is the most straightforward alternative to many raw feeders new and experienced. Please consider his metabolism, activity level, lifestyle, health, and other factors to determine the perfect amount. Senior, less active, or overweight dogs weight loss : Feed 1. For a German Shepherd that weighs 65 pounds, here is how much raw food you would need to feed him daily. Fruit Dairy These diets need to be well balanced to provide your German Shepherd puppy with all of the essential nutrients he needs to thrive. When can I start feeding my German Shepherd puppy raw? It would be ideal to feed raw to your GSD puppy from 12 weeks on, when they finish teething and their permanent dentition is fully developed. This can ensure they have teeth strong enough to engage in active chewing of bones and not just gulping it down. What are the benefits of a raw food diet for German Shepherd puppies? Feeding your German Shepherd puppy a raw food diet simulates the way they would have eaten before domestication. Because of this, there are several benefits you will see if you switch your puppy over to raw food. The gold standard diet is as close to the evolutionary diet of dogs and cats as is practically possible, is made from fresh frozen raw meaty bones, meats, organ meats, fruits and vegetables, minimally processed by mincing and freezing. The diet contains no added synthetic supplements, additives or preservatives. Raw food cuts out all of the processed food and additives included in commercially produced dog foods. The ingredients you give your pup will be completely under your control and natural. It would be boring, right? Dogs feel the same way. It will be something your dog looks forward to. Not only will he be getting the extra health benefits of raw food, but he will also be getting the excitement and flavor of different types of foods. German Shepherds have double coats. After all, GSDs are work dogs. Unfortunately, GSDs are susceptible to sensitivities. German Shepherds sometimes become allergic to gluten or common animal proteins found in commercial dog foods. They can get itchy, dry, and red skin from allergies either in their environment or diet. Raw food helps eliminate many of the causes of those skin irritations, leading to healthier skin. Also, you are adding many healthy fats and oils through proteins such as fish and with supplements such as nuts that encourage shinier coats. Many cheaper commercial dog foods use grains as a cheap alternative for protein. Carrots are rich in Vitamin A, an antioxidant and protector of white T cells. GSDs are prone to stomach sensitivities, especially to proteins such as beef, lamb, and chicken commonly found in commercial dog foods. By feeding raw, you can offer your dog alternative proteins to keep their stomach happy. This promotes more solid stools and fewer episodes of nausea and diarrhea. You can provide high-quality proteins with nutrient-packed organ meat and whole, raw vegetables packed with vitamins. Many cheap commercial dog foods fill their formulas with low-quality grains with little nutritional value, such as wheat sweepings. Many dogs, especially German Shepherds, can become sensitive to these ingredients, causing stomach issues. What are the drawbacks of a raw food diet for German Shepherd puppies? Coli and Salmonella, handling raw meat still poses a threat for humans. These bacteria can cause you to become very sick 1 to 10 days after exposure with the following symptoms : Stomach cramps Vomiting fever It is important to wash your hands thoroughly after handling raw meat. It may seem obvious, but in the hustle and bustle of daily life, you may forget. You can use this video as a guide. If you choose to feed raw, it is important to prep each meal carefully because you are in charge of providing all of the nutrients your puppy needs to be healthy. This will include planning out the meals, purchasing the meats and foods, prepping the foods and meat, and supervising the feeds. If you want to get an idea of what the process of putting together a raw food meal looks like, you can watch this video: 4 Feeding a balanced raw diet can be challenging A balanced raw diet that contains high-quality meats is always ideal for your German Shepherd puppy. But is can be difficult to get the right mix when you first begin. The right ratios of muscle meat, organ meat, and bone, as well as the correct levels of vitamins and minerals, are critical to making a balanced diet. What kinds of raw meats are good for German Shepherd puppies? There are many raw meats you can feed your German Shepherd puppy. The best part about raw feeding is you can use literally every part of an animal, which provides the most benefit to your dog. You can feed your puppy the following raw meats: Boneless chicken. It seems many of us can relate to health problems we have encountered while feeding our dogs dried processed dog food. He is 8 years old, so an older dog, and I was told he may have cancer. Knowing this, I knew I had to focus on his bone health and at the same time stay away from all sugars and grains as cancer can feed on both of these. I also make sure to feed Boaz raw organ meats times a week. Organ meats contain nearly every nutrient including B vitamins, folic acid, minerals like phosphorus, iron, copper, magnesium and iodine. They also provide the important fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E and K. Also important is making sure that Boaz is getting vegetables into his diet. Every week in his own batch of broth, I include vegetables with dark leafy greens which he devours. The calcium in his diet is coming from the raw beef and chicken bones and fermented dairy of yogurt and cottage cheese. When feeding dogs bones, make sure they are always raw. Never feed your dog cooked bones of any kind as they can splinter and cause intestinal problems. For his essential fatty acids, I give Boaz a teaspoon every day of fermented cod liver oil and cold pressed flaxseed oil.

This is perhaps the reason why many dog lovers want to buy one nowadays. True, different dog breeds have different needs, but they all have something in common. After all, different breeds tend to have unique personalities. Short-haired shepherd breeds are no exception. They are loyal and obedient Short-haired shepherd breeds are extremely loyal to their owners. But as usual, too much is bad. They are cautious and loving Short-haired German shepherds also tend to be cautious around strangers. And you can expect that your relationship will last forever. After all, the hard-hearted personality of short-haired German shepherds makes it impossible for them to get used to many people at once. Thus, sufficient knowledge about them is necessary in order to avoid disappointment later on. Frequent vacations, trips, and overtime are the perfect ingredients for disaster when it comes to short-haired German shepherds. You only see them as watchdogs It goes without saying that short-haired German shepherds need freedom, just like how other dogs do. So keeping them restrained with chains for a long time will only lead to problems. Paying no attention to their behavior can only spell disaster, so watch out for sudden changes. The best thing about dogs is that you can take advantage of these to suit your needs. Here are some tips on how to do so. Teach them new skills regularly While dogs are known for being fast learners, short-haired German shepherds are beyond that. When buying… Due to the popularity of such breeds, there are many shams selling short-haired shepherd breeds. So, what you need to do is limit yourself to respected breeders. To avoid health issues , you might have to spend more on your initial purchase. They can even shed more than their long-haired counterpart. Purchase chew toys, the durable ones With proper care, short-haired German shepherd puppies can grow with tenacious jaws. Surely no one wants to fix damages in their yards or home, so buy some chew toys. Secure a regular check-up with the vet As previously said, the short-haired shepherd breeds tend to endure the toughest struggles. Even when they appear healthy, they might not be. So send them to the vet once in a while. Ensure a healthy diet If you think their shedding, chewing, and health issues are tiresome to deal with regularly, you can minimize it through their diet. Feed them fruits and vegetables like apples, carrots, berries, while providing them protein with meat. If properly fed, they can shed less and experience fewer health issues. Conclusion Short-haired German shepherds are strong, flexible, reliable, and loving dogs. If this is the kind of dog that appeals to your sensibilities, then they might be the perfect fit for you. When properly taken care of, they can be a new addition to your family. And that includes spending money on them along the way. Peter My name is Peter and I am a dog lover. I have two German Shepherd dogs, one of which is called Biscuit because his coat is very light with brown patches. My wife and I moved from the UK to Ohio where we now live with our two daughters. We love squash on weekends and following the English Premier League closely! Previous Article. It is sometimes referred to as a regular coat or a short stock coat. These dogs are amazingly loyal, and they can feel anxious when you are not around. It explains their unfriendliness to strangers. Moreover, they do not easily make new friends, and a lot of socialization techniques are needed to reduce their aggression and rejection. Short haired GSDs are quite energetic, so they need at least two hours of exercise every day. Your pup will join you in all your activities, be they walking, running, swimming, or riding a bike. Their coat has a double layer, so they can withstand cold and severe weather conditions. However, such a coat needs constant grooming, at least every days, especially in spring and fall, when their shedding can become a true catastrophe for your household. The origin Short haired Shepherd Dogs, as well as long haired, are the result of the long and deliberate work of German breeders, whose goal was to breed an ideal herding dog with a stable mentality and good health. Only those with the best physical and mental conditions were allowed for further breeding. Already at the beginning of the twentieth century, the Shepherd Dogs were reclassified from Shepherds to guards and police dogs. However, the same creator, Max von Stephanitz, advocated strongly for shorter hair on German Shepherds. Then why did he prioritize eliminating the long hair feature from Shepherd dogs? Because lengthy hair hinders the capacity of a dog to work. Long fur is a liability for a large working dog, due to the absence of an undercoat and the ease with which it becomes dirty. Even modern-day working line German Shepherds must be agile and athletic. When long hair became somewhat more troublesome than short hair, breeders producing working dogs began removing the long-haired variety from the stud pool. We can easily recognize them in movies, such as Strongheart or Rin Tin Tin. Size and Appearance A short haired German Shepherd dog is usually athletically built. Its height is inches at the wither, and it can weigh pounds. Males are obviously bigger than females, and they look quite masculine. Their muzzle is long and the ears are erect, facing forward. The back should be straight, and a sloped back that has appeared nowadays can cause severe health problems. The outer layer of the coat is usually dense and located close to the skin. The fur is straight, but sometimes slight waving occurs. The undercoat is wooly and thick because it is meant to protect the animal from severe weather conditions. The short haired GSDs look like wolves. Nevertheless, they can be of different colors. Black, black and tan, sable, gray, or red and black colors are acceptable. However, lighter colors are not popular among breeders and owners. That is why they are appreciated as working dogs in many jobs, including the police and the army. These dogs are perfectly protective. They are always alert if they need to guard the family or household. They can even seem too possessive to their owners. However, these animals are very clever and trainable. They always want to please you. So, if you reward them with some treats, training will have much better results. Separation anxiety is one of the most severe behavioral problems. They feel lonely, frustrated, and anxious if they cannot see you for a long time. They may even start chewing your clothes, footwear, and furniture if you are out. A German Shepherd can start barking and howling, and it may cause some trouble in your relationships with neighbors. Anyway, the dog needs an exciting job to do, even if it is just playing with a toy. To keep your dog healthy and comfortable — adhere to the following care recommendations. Hair A short haired Shepherd has a fairly stiff coat, and during shedding , it covers the entire environment, including the furniture and the carpet. To prevent this from happening, brush your pet twice a week with a special brush. Bathing Two to three baths per year, excluding fall and winter, is the optimal number of water treatments for this breed. Washing more often will cause its coat to lose its natural shine. Teeth Shepherds often suffer from tartar, so once a week they should be given a special chew stick. This could cause its bite to become deformed. Walking A German Shepherd needs to get both mental and physical exercise every day. The best way to do it all at once is to train outside. If you keep your dog in an apartment, take at least two hours of daily walks. Training The German Shepherd requires mental workouts at least three to four times per week for 20 minutes each. It is important to remember that the muscles and joints in puppies under 6 months old are still developing. Training must be demanding but fair and kind. Violence is not permitted. The Shepherd may become hostile or cowardly as a result. It is best to start training your puppy when they are between two and three months old, starting with simple commands. It is advised to get in touch with a qualified dog trainer if you have no prior experience with dogs of those breeds. Feeding For a healthy pet, choosing a balanced diet is crucial. German Shepherds with short hair require a diet high in protein and low in fat. Dry food and natural food are also acceptable. Fish is beneficial to these pets. Calcium-enriched goods should only be consumed in moderation. For the short haired German Shepherd, it is preferable to select premium ready-to-eat food. Make sure there is enough water while using dry food. The following daily feeding schedule is advised by experts. When a puppy is born, it is fed 6 times in the first two months , 5 times in the third month, 4 times from the fourth to six months, and 3 times per day from six months to 1 year. When the dog is older and is considered an adult, meals are only given twice daily. Feed the Shepherd dog at the same time every day. The food should be served at a medium temperature. This is crucial for the development of its proper posture. They may suffer from such health issues as hip dysplasia, heart and eye conditions, and generative myelopathy. Getting insurance is a good idea, too. FAQ How rare are short haired Shepherds? Short haired GSDs are not rare at all. You can see these dogs almost everywhere. According to the AKC, German Shepherds are the third most popular breed, and its short-haired representatives make up most of the population. Short hair is a dominant gene, so the chance to get a long-haired puppy from its short-haired parents is quite minimal. Do short haired German Shepherds shed less? Short haired German Shepherds shed continuously throughout the year, however, the fall and spring are the seasons when they shed the fastest. In contrast, long-haired individuals do not shed more in the fall or spring. However, they must also be brushed on a regular basis. Do short haired German Shepherds Get Cold? Short haired GSDs do not become cold because of their thick undercoat, which serves as an insulating layer and keeps their body heat from escaping, keeping them relatively warm in colder weather. If taught and introduced from a young age, the breed is completely capable of sleeping and living outside. What is a short haired German Shepherd? A double-coated standard German Shepherd is a short haired German Shepherd. It is also known as a regular coat or a short stock coat. Final Thoughts A pet, a reliable guardian, or a dignified exhibitor — the short haired German Shepherd easily copes with any of the roles. The breed combines endurance, trainability, and affection for humans. David W. I admire German Shepherds. They are magnificent dogs! I have been dealing with dogs, namely German Shepherds, throughout my life. I have been working part-time as a dog trainer and instructor for about 5 years, dealing mainly with German Shepherds. So I know a bit about these animals. Therefore, I decided to share my knowledge and experience about this fantastic breed. If you need help with advice and care tips or want to know more about German Shepherd dogs, welcome to this blog. Lifespan Sociability Since the German Shepherd is one of the most popular breeds in the United States, there are plenty of reputable breeders, and finding a puppy is usually not a problem. That said, they can vary fairly widely in price, as some are bred purely for the pet trade, while others are bred as working dogs and will cost a fair bit more. While the German Shepherd is one of the most recognizable breeds in the world, they are actually a fairly recent breed. German Shepherds as we know them today were first bred in the late s by Max von Stephanitz, with a dog by the name of Horand becoming the first officially registered German Shepherd. They have American Kennel Club recognition. They go by several names. During World War I and II, both Americans and Europeans sought to get rid of the German part of the name due to its association, and the dog thus became known as the Alsatian in most of Europe. Image Credit: Pixabay 4. They are highly intelligent. German Shepherds are widely considered among the most intelligent dogs on the planet. They are immensely popular. According to the AKC, since , German Shepherds have consistently ranked second in the United States for the most popular dog breed, with only the family-favorite Labrador Retriever above them. They served in both World Wars. During World War I, German Shepherds were used by both the Germans and Allied forces for carrying messages and distributing food and as rescue dogs and as personal guards. After the war, soldiers were impressed by the capabilities of the breed. They are Hollywood stars. German Shepherds have long had starring roles in many Hollywood movies, with Rin Tin Tin being the most well-known, with dozens of movies throughout the early s. They were one of the first seeing-eye dogs in the U. Dogs are commonly used as an aid for people with visual impairment or complete blindness. Although this role is now often associated with Labradors or Golden Retrievers, German Shepherds were among the first. There are few dogs more adorable than German Shepherd puppies, and there is no shortage of homes for them. They come in eleven recognized colors. The classic black and tan German Shepherd is the color most associated with the breed, but these dogs actually come in 11 different colors. Their loyalty, intelligence, and versatility are almost unmatched by any other breed, evidenced by their use in so many ways. Short-haired German Shepherds grow inches tall for males and weigh lbs, whereas short-haired females grow inches and weigh lbs. Their height and weight are similar to the medium and long-coated varieties. While long-haired varieties have topcoats that are twice as long as the short-haired dogs, this type has double coats. Short-haired German Shepherds belonging to the working line will be less bulky than show lines. This is primarily due to different genes, but you can exaggerate the size difference with the working lines being trimmed closer to the coat and show lines having their coats fluffed up for conformation events. Temperament Personality Traits of the Short-Haired German Shepherd Since short-haired German Shepherds are classed as the standard of the breed, their personality traits are what you would expect. However, the way you treat them also shapes their personality. The two types begin cultivating different traits, with the long-haired being treated differently than short-haired ones. Socially intelligent Short-haired German Shepherds are socially intelligent because their potential for observation is honed by their owners, who adopt them for work or enroll them in the show circuit. The long-haired types are often adopted by novice dog parents who fall in love with the pup for personal reasons. Nonetheless, both types make good pets. Alert While short-haired German Shepherds can be incredibly alert, this trait is often watered down by lack of reward. Even though you and your doggo might agree on how wrong that is, the social norms dictate that this is fine. Compound this for a year, and you have a best friend who is alert but for very specific things. Loyal Short-haired German Shepherds are loyal dogs , and their loyalty is cemented further as they bond with their owners. They shed more during the fall and spring because of their undercoat change. This means their owners brush them more frequently than long-coated dogs who shed at the same rate year-round. Brushing is therapeutic for the owner and pleasant for the pup because of the attention he receives. As a result, short-haired German Shepherds bond very quickly with their owners. They are interested in exploring and can often get distracted by external stimuli. Coupled with their high energy, this sense can make them hard to handle if not appropriately trained. They need walks, but if they cannot focus, they end up making you walk a longer distance and in more directions than you planned. To avoid this, you must know how to take care of a short-haired German Shepherd. Short-haired German Shepherds shed consistently throughout the year and lose their undercoats rapidly during the fall and spring seasons. Long-haired types, in contrast, do not shed more during fall or spring. However, they too require the same regular brushing regimen. Short-haired German Shepherds do not get cold as their woolly undercoat acts as an insulating layer and prevents their body heat from escaping, which helps them stay relatively warm in colder weather. The breed is perfectly capable of living and sleeping outside if exposed and trained from an early age. Therefore, they too get cold in extreme temperatures but survive relatively cold weather like their short-haired cousins. Again, because this variety accounts for almost the entirety of the breed, I would refer you to my comprehensive article on taking care of German Shepherds. Do you want to learn more about GSD care? Health Common Health Problems Short-haired German Shepherds seem privileged in that they have better acceptance than other types. But there are limits to the perks of any breed, and with long hair, medium, or short, health problems remain a significant concern. Here are some medical complications a short-haired German Shepherd is prone to. Degenerative Disc Disease. The fur sometimes flies among German shepherd fanciers regarding coat lengths. What the hairball, right? The overwhelming majority of German shepherds have moderately short to medium-length hair, as dictated by the breed standard. The term is primarily used to distinguish them from long-haired GSDs. Some long-haired individuals lack an undercoat, and they sometimes cost more due to their rarity. However, they are essentially the same pooch otherwise. Long-haired shepherds also occur, but both the AKC breed standard and UKC standard call for one coat length as we mentioned: medium. Excessively long or short, close-cropped coats are deemed faults. A standard German shepherd has a thick, medium-length coat that may appear slightly longer around the neck and rear legs. This is a point of contention in many breeds with differing looks, including Chihuahuas who can be short or long coated and Labs, who come in three colors. Many owners insist there are behavioral differences between types, while others disagree. Personality Differences Generally speaking, appearance has little weight on personality. A German shepherd is a German shepherd. They are large, athletic dogs who love human interaction and thrive when faced with challenges. Dogs from working lines are usually more active with a strong drive compared to show stock. Health Differences As with personality, there are few health differences noted between the short-coated and long-coated shepherds. Any potential health differences between the two can likely be attributed to the coat length. For example, the long-coated variety may be at greater risk of developing hot spots in wet weather. Also, and somewhat counterintuitively, long-coated shepherds are sometimes more susceptible to hypothermia, since they sometimes lack an insulating undercoat. All dedicated GSD breeders as well as those working with any other breed should screen their breeding stock for common health concerns of the breed. Certain colors can lead to issues, however. For example, pale, blue, and liver colors are considered faults, and white is a disqualifying color. On the other hand, long-haired German shepherds do not meet the breed standard since a long coat is considered a fault. These dogs cannot compete in a show ring. No — short-haired GSDs are not rare. In fact, short-coated German shepherds are more common than those with long coats. Additionally, since long-coated GSDs are seen as going against the breed standard, most breeders avoid producing them, or they choose to sell them on a pet-only contract. The point behind this is line of thinking is that every generation of puppy should strive to reach the breed standard. But on the other hand, because of the rarity of the long-coat gene, some breeders deliberately produce them and charge a premium for these long-haired doggos. Also, note that those who opt to breed long-coated shepherds may not always have the same goals as traditional GSD breeders. Now, while the standard calls for a double coat, the undercoat is sometimes lacking in long-haired GSDs. On the surface, this may not appear to be a big deal, but in colder climates, an undercoat is vital in insulating your dog from the elements, so these long-haired pups may actually have a tougher time staying warm. Because the vast majority of short-haired shepherds have an undercoat, they shed more than longer-coated pups who lack one. They also require more brushing around shedding season to remove any loose undercoat. The same is true of long-haired GSDs with an undercoat. Image from Pinterest. The German shepherd dog has a dense coat that sheds regularly. Weekly brushing is recommended to maintain his handsome looks and cut down on tumbleweeds around the house. Brushing should increase during heavy shedding periods, such as when seasons change. Regular tooth brushing and ear cleaning are also musts to keep him in tip-top shape, as is a good flea prevention program. Life Span Did You Know? The German Shepherd is one of the most versatile, well-recognized, and popular dog breeds in the world. The modern German Shepherd is descended from a family of various German herding dogs. Breed standards were not developed until the late 19th century when Captain Max von Stephanitz, a German cavalry officer, worked with Arthur Meyer and other breeders to develop the ideal German herding dog. Stephanitz and Meyer wrote the breed standard in and the American Kennel Club recognized the German Shepherd as a member of the Herding Group in .Although they were originally bred as herding dogs, they were also bred for versatility, which made the German Shepherd an all-around working dog that could excel in a variety of applications. German Shepherds are one of the common dog breeds employed in K-9 units in both police and military applications. They also make great service dogs and, of course, are still awesome herding dogs and farm dogs! The German Shepherd is a strong-willed and highly intelligent dog. They have a playful, energetic spirit and tend to get along with children, other dogs, and other pets, which makes them a great family companion. A born protector, the German Shepherd will provide a great sense of security for their family while their loving and lively personality will make them fit right in as a companion. German Shepherds are naturally protective and can be wary of strangers at first. A well-socialized German Shepherd will bark to alert you and tends to warm up to strangers once introduced. German Shepherds are dogs that were bred to herd and work. This, plus their high energy, makes them a better fit for homes with fenced yards where they can run. They can adapt well to larger apartments as long as plenty of time is dedicated to ensuring they get enough exercise, mental stimulation, and attention every day. A bored, ignored, or under-exercised German Shepherd can often become a destructive one. They also can be sensitive to their surroundings and large gatherings can be off-putting. With a longer coat, they tend to prefer cooler climates and are sensitive to heat. The German Shepherd is a generally healthy breed, but there are some potential health concerns and good breeding practices make a big difference. Potential health concerns to be aware of in a German Shepherd include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia , and degenerative myelopathy. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. So, make sure you are asking about the health and genetic history of both parents. You can also ask about any health tests or clearances that have been done. As a barrel-chested breed, the German Shepherd is also at risk for bloat. While the German Shepherd is highly intelligent and highly trainable, they are generally not recommended for novice owners. If you are a novice dog owner, enroll in puppy training classes or enlist the help of a professional dog trainer; not just for your dog, but for yourself as well. Training assistance will help you grow in experience and build a strong bond between you and your German Shepherd puppy, which is essential. Also, the GSD has a thirst for training and fulfillment. They get bored easily and especially with repetition, so continued training with your German Shepherd throughout their life will be necessary. German Shepherds have a medium-to-long double coat. They will shed year-round and heavier as seasons change. Brushing a few times a week is usually sufficient; brushing daily is even better and your GSD will likely love you for it. Bathing is occasional on an as-needed basis. Ear checks weekly with careful cleanings as needed can help prevent ear infections. German Shepherds are high-energy working dogs. Not only do they require a lot of daily activity, but they also are a herding breed that was made to run, guard, and observe, so they need a job to do to be happy and healthy. Daily walks plus playtime, time to run, and other activities are usually enough for a GSD, but they will likely be up for more activity if you are. With their versatility and athleticism, you can try a lot of different activities when puppies finish growing and they are cleared for higher-impact things. A fully-grown German Shepherd usually stands inches tall and weighs pounds. German Shepherds generally live for years on average. Corporal Duncan brought him back to the United States and Rin-Tin-Tin became one of the most famous dog actors in history. Featured German Shepherd Article.