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This medium breed dog is naturally strong and sturdy; one of the physical qualities that makes this dog so popular. An owner needs to find just the right balance.A Boxer's exercise needs will change from puppy to adulthood. One must offer enough to keep the dog strong and healthy.But also know the Boxer's limits.As too much at a young age can hinder proper growth.And too much at certain times can cause health issues. With this said, a lack of proper exercise over an extended amount of time will lead to muscle loss and weakness in the dog. Boxers under the age of 2 years old have a long way to go in order to mature into muscular, well-built adults. It is not uncommon for Boxer puppies to have loose skin and part of the dog filling out and gaining a tighter coat will be a quality diet and proper physical conditioning. To keep your Boxer healthy, daily exercise must be provided. Owners must be aware that allowing their dog to roam the yard is not considered to be enough physical activity. Each vet has their own particular schedule; however in general the 3rd and final combination shot Called a 5-way vaccine usually includes adenovirus cough and hepatitis, distemper, parainfluenza, and parvovirus. Check with your veterinarian to make sure that "all puppy shots" have been given. After this time, then you may safely begin to bring your puppy outside to explore the world and to allow him to meet his exercise requirements. Until this time, a puppy should only be allowed outside in an enclosed area, in which there are no other dogs and no chance of other dogs getting into the area. Consider the Elements While it is important to exercise your Boxer, keep the weather conditions in mind. The Boxer - along with other Mastiff breeds- have shorter, flatter faces than other dogs. They are a Brachycephalic breed, which means that the skull is compressed. You'll want to follow certain guidelines regarding summer care when you still need to exercise your Boxer, but it's hot and humid outside. The shorter hair on a Boxer dog also makes this breed a bit sensitive to outside elements such as extreme sun or cold and rain. If you will be going for a long hike or walk in bright sunlight, be sure to plan rest stops in shaded areas. For Boxer dogs that have any white markings, sunscreen should be applied to those areas and to the stomach if you will be out for longer than an hour in bright sunlight. All white Boxer dogs should have sunscreen applied all over be careful around the face- but do apply to the nose. What are the Exercise Needs of a Boxer Dog? Exercise with your Boxer dog should begin slow and increase at a steady pace as your dog grows older and becomes accustomed. Puppies should not be taken on a scheduled walk more than 1 time per day. This does not mean that he or she needs to say still aside from walk time! This only means that once you have ventured out, a purposeful, brisk walk for a 2nd time may be too much. Growth plates are not yet fully formed and excessive exercise can impede growth. In addition, muscles are not yet fully formed and cannot handle excessive activity. Over the course of the 1st year, you can increase exercise with your Boxer, until he or she is meeting the requirements of an adult dog. A Boxer should have a brisk 20 minutes for a puppy, 30 minutes to 45 minutes for an adult walk each day, given that the temperatures and weather are not extreme. Do not bring your puppy out for walks until all puppy shots are given. If your Boxer enters an adolescent stage from around the 14 to 22 month mark where the Boxer seems too skinny , keep up with exercise and a super-nutritious packed diet as his weight works to catch up to his height. On very cold days, walks can be kept much shorter. On very hot days, head out in the early morning or later in the evening when it's cooling down. Having 2 walks a day is just fine for adults, especially if you must keep the 1st one of the day shorter than normal. If you keep your Boxer inside and the living quarters are rather small, exercising outside twice per day is best for this breed. The Boxer dog should be given an opportunity to actually run around for exercise times a week. This can be done in a large, fenced yard. If you do not have a yard, finding a large open field is great, as is a controlled environment at a dog park. Naturally athletic, this breed will love to run after a tennis ball and enjoy using all of their muscles. You can be creative in the type of exercise that you provide to your Boxer dog. This dog can be taught to catch a Frisbee, always fun for both owner and dog. You can train him or her to run along side you as you bicycle, jog or inline skate. This breed, in general, loves to hike alongside their owner.So any trails or such that you can handle, he or she can as well. Swimming can also be a great way to exercise muscles for both of you. Best Times for Exercise Care should be taken to not allow extensive exercise right after the Boxer eats. This is a canine health condition that can occur from several causes, one being strenuous exercise right after eating. The symptoms are vomiting usually dry heaving , a very tight abdomen and restlessness in the dog. This condition needs immediate treatment at an animal hospital or veterinarian. In some cases, this can be fatal to a dog. Your Boxer will be ready for a walk 1 hour after a meal and for more intense exercise 2 hours after eating. Most do best with activity spaced part; a session in the morning and a session in the evening. If you will be leaving the home for quite a few hours, your dog will behave better if you offer a good burst of exercise before you leave. Try to limit activity within the last hour before expected night time sleep. Running with a Boxer Dog You may be a runner and wonder if the Boxer is a good breed to run alongside you. Dogs with lots of muscle like the Boxer, and especially those that are brachycephalic breeds like the Boxer, do best with short sprints as opposed to long runs. This said, if an owner wants to run with their Boxer, this is something that can be gradually worked on. We'd suggest starting with 2 miles and, similar to a person training for a marathon, work up to a greater distance. Breaks must be taken for a Boxer to re-hydrate. And of course, if the Boxer starts to appear out of breath, a break must be taken for him to get his breathing under control. While the Boxer is not a severe brachycephalic breed, he is a moderate one. So, those compressed breathing passages can lead to breathing issues if he is over-worked. Boxer Dog Blog - Check out our monthly Blog - the Topic of the Month, where we discuss a new, relevant informational piece each month. We always write about something that has been suggested by our Members or that has presented itself as an important care element that owners should be aware of. Become a Member - When you sign up, this allows you to receive a friendly alert when new, helpful info has been added to the site. Stay informed at all times. After she rescued her first Boxer in , Samantha fell in love with the breed and has continued to rescue three other Boxers since then. She enjoys hiking and swimming with her Boxers, Maddie and Chloe. Concrete jungle where dreams are made of. For pet owners, transitioning into a.But make no mistake; this intriguing 'dating app' is for.Mitchell Tobias - Sep 10, Clumber spaniels are loyal and affectionate dogs. They have enthusiasm for work, and they love to play. They can adapt easily and are happy indoors or.Dan Ivan Libunao - Sep 7, To us, humans, winking packs a lot of emotions when we do it. There are so many meanings behind the act of closing our eyelids. Aubrey Mesada - Sep 6, Are Springadors suitable as family pets? Do they get along with kids? Maybe you just came across this mixed breed and had a love-at-first-sight moment. Your Ally in Dog Ownership Top Dog Tips is here to provide dog owners with the most accurate and in-depth tips and advice on dog care, health, nutrition and training from the industry experts — veterinarians, dog trainers, groomers and animal scientists. We help dog owners effortlessly choose the best dog supplies on the market. We buy, test, review and rank pet products to help you avoid the bad stuff and purchase only what's best for you and your dog. Once he outgrows this last setting, he'll need a new, larger collar. It's been raining for four days straight. Everyone's going stir crazy, dogs and kids included. So the kids went outside and played in the rain with Bruno. Then they all came in and dried off next to the fire. The kids were eating a snack at the living room coffee table. While they were eating, they caught Bruno chewing on the end of the coffee table and told him "No. I was watching Bruno to see if he would do it again so I could correct him. I immediately walked over to Bruno, "Aaaatttt!!! He'd never jumped up at a table inside the house before. That was the first time. Puppies are not born knowing the rules. It's our jobs as their owners to teach them the rules of the house, correcting them over and over again, for as long as it takes for them to really learn what is allowed and what is not. Consistency is important from every member of the family, including the kids. It even got me wondering. After all, he's a Boxer, should he not be a little spastic? He checked out well at the vet, but in the back of my mind, I always kind of wondered about it. Well I think I have found my answer; it's rained here for five days straight, therefore Bruno has missed his walks. Sure, we took him out and played ball in the rain and tossed the ball around the house. Even ran around a bit outside in the rain, but nothing like the amount of exercise he is used to. As the rainy days went on, Bruno became more and more restless. He started pacing, chasing his tail and running all over the house like a nutcase. Jumping high into the air, tossing his toys all around and pouncing on them, even late at night, when he is usually crashed for the night. While Bruno did look very happy about chasing his tail, I knew this was not normal behavior for a balanced dog. It is also not normal for a dog to pace. I now see a direct relation between his hyperactivity and the amount of walks he receives. Tossing a ball and having the kids run around with him in the rain does not cut it. The dog needs to walk. As soon as things dry up we'll be back on schedule, however for now the treadmill will have to do. The treadmill is still new to him, so we are taking it easy. I call him up onto it, and when he first gets on, I give him a small piece of cheese. Then I start it up on the slowest setting and slowly speed it up a few clicks while I raise the incline. I keep him at a moderately fast-paced walk, but raise the incline quite a bit. I hold a slice of cheese in front of him and every once in a while I let him lick some from my finger. The purpose of the cheese is so Bruno sees the treadmill as a positive experience. I stand right in front of him so he is walking toward me. I can also reach all of the buttons and easily hold his lead. Bruno had two treadmill walks today. This morning I put him on for only ten minutes. I could tell he was not so sure about it, so I kept it short. I waited until he was walking well for a couple of minutes before I hit the stop button. Then I made him stay on the track for a little while before telling him he could jump down. It's important that I am always the one who ends the session, or he'll start jumping off whenever he pleases. Later on the same day I put him back on for 20 minutes at a nice steady pace, and slowly raised the incline quite a bit. This time Bruno seemed much more at ease. Once again I used tiny bits of cheese to make it a rewarding experience. After walking up a steep hill at a nice pace for 20 minutes I noticed he was getting a bit tired. I lowered the incline and stopped the track. I told him to stay for a few minutes and gave him a few more licks of cheese. Then I called him off. Bruno is back to his happy, calm self. Bruno Joins the Great Pyrenees After five days, it finally stopped raining. All of the animals were let out, including the chickens, ducks, peacocks and guinea fowl. This means we have to worry about foxes there are several of them that would surely be hungry and looking for a meal. The back gate was opened up to allow the Great Pyrenees into the five-acre horse field. The Pyrenees now had access to the back woods and this field. Foxes usually come through this field when they are on the hunt for one of our birds. Bruno is able to squeeze through the front gate and get into this field as well. He does this often. The first thing the Great Pyrenees do when put into a new area is walk the borders. Bruno decided to join them. He walked the entire border with them two times over. While the Great Pys were very serious about their work of staking out the border, smelling around for anything that didn't belong, to Bruno it was all a game. Hey guys, wait for me! Checking out the border on the upper part of the field. Checking out the horses. No signs of any foxes, but we better keep watch just in case. Not sure if Bruno knew what the Pys were looking for or not. He seemed more interested in play. He is only a 5-month-old pup, so I suppose even if he did know what the Pyrenees were up to, he'd still have play on his mind. Bruno was trying to play with Tacoma. I thought to myself, "Oh Bruno, she doesn't want to play. Yes, I do believe they are friends. Bruno and Allie follow along. On some of the straighter trails we drive fast and the dogs have to run at top speed to keep up. What fun; they always enjoy Gator runs. We drive to the pond. The pond had been almost all dried up, but with the recent rain it filled back up. The dogs run in the water for a drink. Bruno ran in top speed, but suddenly put on his breaks when he realized it was only getting deeper. We're walking past barking dogs, moving cars, people taking out their trash and groups of teens hanging out on the streets, and these two keep going with minimal corrections. We went from dogs that pulled toward these distractions to dogs that are only looking. I've been correcting them with a tug when they look in the direction of the distraction, to which they have been responding very well. I know the next level would be for them to react by pulling. My goal is to not let it get that far. The dog backpack makes a huge difference. A few times I forgot to bring it along on our walks. The difference in the way Bruno walked made me swear I would never forget it again. Without the pack I am constantly reminding Bruno to slow down, and he keeps ending up in front of me as if he's got places to go and we are just not walking fast enough. With the pack Bruno walks right next to Allie and me. He picks his feet up higher and walks as if he is proud. He doesn't even try to get ahead. He paces himself and concentrates on carrying his pack, which has a water bottle inside the compartments on each side. I am still working on teaching Bruno not to try and play while we are walking. I have tried just about everything, from blocking with my body, using a short verbal correction to tugging on his lead. I even said out loud, "Bruno, service dogs don't play while on the job! Bruno would slow down and then from behind me, start play-biting on Allie again. Allie will keep walking, ignoring his attempt to start a game on the walk, but Bruno keeps trying. With my corrections, he'd stop for a second, but then he'd be right back at it. I finally found something that worked! When Bruno turned to Allie and was about to play-bite her, I bit Bruno in the neck with my fingers. Bruno immediately responded by walking nicely once again. I understand all of these concepts of communicating to a dog, but it still amazes me just how well they work and how easy it can be. I just touched Bruno, I didn't yell, didn't get upset, didn't smack him or yank on him. I just touched him in a semi-stern way. I felt like something clicked and Bruno's play mode was turned off, when actually what I did was tell Bruno to stop in a way HE could understand. It was not time to play and he was fine with that; I just needed to tell him. Allie and Bruno after their walk. They are crashed for the night. Bad Puppy Moments Bruno was outside eating cat food again. I was in the house looking out the window. Every time I saw him looking at the table I knocked on the window, "Aaaatttt! He walked away from the cats, but not before he ate some cat food.A couple of days later, Bruno strikes again! He's now tall enough to easily reach the food. I walked outside and told him to get away from the table. Bruno is done sneaking cat food for the day, however, every time Bruno jumps up at the table I am inside the house and he is outside. I don't feel like I ever got a good correction in at the moment he started jumping. With that, and the fact that he knows how tasty that food is, I know we're not done with this issue just yet. Bruno, the Cats and Another Mouse I looked out the window and saw Bruno standing over three of our cats. My first thought was, Bruno is about to chase the cats. I knocked on the window. Usually he would respond and walk away from the cats. However he turned back to whatever he was looking at. That's when I realized he was not focused on the cats. Whatever he was focused on, so were the cats. Then Bruno pounced, as if he WAS a cat. I went out to see what he was doing. The cats had given Bruno another mouse and they were letting him play with it. I ran inside to get a container. Yes, I saved the mouse. Bruno's paw was on top of it, he was having a grand old time playing with it. I laid the container down sideways and picked Bruno's paw up. The mouse ran into the container. Bruno spent a long time looking for the mouse, while the cats just watched him. It seems the cats gave him yet another mouse! Sorry, Bruno, but you gotta give that mouse to mommy. I looked out the window and could tell, Bruno was up to something. As soon as I opened the front door Bruno sat down and looked at me. There was something hanging out of his mouth. It looked like a tan cigar. I walked over to him, just as the object disappeared into his mouth. Bruno was out eating poop again. I don't know if it was his own turd or that of a cat, because I didn't dare smell it. No wonder his puppy breath is gone! Bruno and the Guineas I looked out the window and spotted the flock of guineas walking right past Bruno. Bruno's attention was focused on something else. The guineas were very loud behind Bruno. Bruno finally starts to turn around. Then he slowly gets up and starts walking. I could tell he was not in a predator mode, just a curious mode. The guineas begin to run and squawk even louder. I knocked on the window to redirect Bruno's attention. Bruno jumped, did a and turned facing the window, staring in my direction, but not seeing me. The guineas went off in their own direction and Bruno walked away from them. While I don't think Bruno sees them as prey, I don't trust that he may sometime decide to "play" with them and discover how much fun a bird can be for a dog. I'll be keeping my eye out. Bruno and his Crate Bruno was looking so comfortable sleeping in his dog bed in the living room, I was thinking about not putting him in his crate for the night. After all, it was a weeknight and everyone was going to be up bright and early in the morning. He had been so good about not going to the bathroom in the house. Just as I was truly considering it, Bruno got up, walked into the kitchen and went to sleep in his crate! The pup apparently does not mind being in there.The Walks I forgot to grab Bruno's backpack before leaving for his walk. I can definitely say the backpack makes a big difference in the way Bruno walks. I am still able to keep him behind me without the backpack, however I feel like I have to constantly remind him to slow down. Meanwhile, I am practically dragging Allie, the Boxer with bad knees. I am going to start keeping the pack in the car so I do not forget it. The Walks and Barking Dogs I do feel I am making great progress in walking by barking, growling dogs. Allie, the 7-year-old Boxer is the dog that I had previously considered unpredictable around other dogs. We have two Great Pyrenees that live outside with our farm animals. They are working dogs, protecting the birds from the fox, raccoons , skunks and opossums. We used to lose a bird a night before I adopted the Pys. Since my two Great Pyrenees are outside working dogs and my two Boxers are indoor dogs, I have two packs living at my house, my Pyrenees and my Boxers. Allie, my 7-year-old Boxer would always pick fights with these dogs. She has several scars on her from previous vicious, relentless fights. I realized Allie was the problem dog, and I learned how to humanely tell Allie to knock it off. I was on my way down to the horse field where I had put the two Great Pyrenees so they could chase away a fox that had almost eaten one of our guinea fowl. The Pys were very proud of themselves. I watched my 7-year-old Boxer for any signs. Allie backed up and sat down, and there she stayed while I greeted my Py's for a job well done in chasing away that fox while ignoring my birds. I am happy to say she has not even attempted to fight with them again. Today I even fed all three dogs, Allie the Boxer and the two Great Pyrenees, some ham without any incidences. While the Great Pys were on one side of the fence and Allie on the other, they ignored one another, whereas in the past, we would have had a fence fight. One previous fence fight was so bad the fence post actually snapped. Allie the Boxer had stuck her head through the fence it was a horse fence, large enough for her head to fit. Allie bit one of the Great Py's in the lip and was not letting go. The second Great Py came running over and grabbed a hold of Allie's neck. Both plus pound plus Py's were pulling the pound Boxer through the fence, only she didn't fit of course. The post snapped at the base. It was a very difficult fight to break up. Allie was left with bloody holes in her head and ears. The Boxer has scars all over her from past fights, fence fights and face-to-face fights. On our walks we often pass barking dogs. Since I have been working with Allie and her aggression with other dogs, she will turn her head and look, and I give a short tug on the lead to keep her moving forward. Bruno is a bit harder. He's still a puppy, but he's a pound puppy. When passing these dogs, I keep moving forward. I find myself having to use my leg to step in front of Bruno to block him from pulling toward the fence where the dog is barking, along with giving tugs on his lead. Unlike a couple of weeks ago slow progress, but progress , Bruno is not barking or growling, just pulling and we keep walking, keep moving forward. I am happy to say tonight we passed a lot of barking dogs, more than normal. A half-hour into the walk, Bruno was only giving them a glance and not pulling toward them. I kept redirecting his attention with a tug on the lead. Bruno, at one point, was totally ignoring a barking, growling dog and started to playfully hold the other end of the lead, which was hanging down in front of his face. Prancing in a high-step puppy walk and looking up at me in a way that told me he was getting frisky for him; it was playtime. Usually I tell him, no, not time to play, however I was too proud that he was totally ignoring this dog that was going ballistic. For him to go into this play mode while passing a dog that was going as nuts as this one was is pretty good. After we passed the dog, I told Bruno to stop playing with the lead and he happily listened, however he started playing with Allie instead something I am trying to break him of, playing with his older sister while walking. I told Bruno to stop playing with Allie, as she was too tired. He gave up on the idea of play and kept walking. We were making progress. Looking forward to more barking dogs on the next walk : After all, in order to fix a problem or issue, you have to face it head on. I have learned when it comes to dogs fighting, there are three things a dog will do: fight, flight or avoidance. I was taking my Boxers for a walk through the woods, which means we had to pass a long section of fencing where the Great Pys were on one side and the Boxers and I were on the other. I had Allie the Boxer on a leash on the same side as the Great Pys. When the Pys came walking over to the fence Allie actually moved herself to the other side of me and tried to get as far away from them as she could. On our way back we passed the same long section of fence, however this time Allie was off the leash. She again walked WAY around as far as she could go and still be walking on the same trail back to the house. She didn't look at them; I could see her being careful not to make eye contact. We went from vicious, and I mean vicious, bloody, fence fights to nothing; all dogs can pass and not a single bad look. I bet I could even walk them together as one pack now. I know it can be done. He always goes to see them. A Rainy Day It's been pouring rain all day today, so Bruno missed his walk. Normally by this time of night p. Bruno is beat, crashed for the night. However tonight he was rearing with energy, tossing his toy through the air and pouncing on it with great excitement. Everyone was in bed and he was making a lot of noise. So I put on my raincoat and ran with him in the rain. Bruno didn't mind the rain in the least. We ran until I was tuckered out and we were both soaked. But Bruno was still full of energy. He came back inside and began tossing another toy around, pouncing happily all over the living room. Only one thing to do: teach Bruno how to walk on the treadmill. Before I turned it on, I had him sit on it and gave him cheese for doing so. Then I turned it on. Bruno was not so sure about the way the floor was moving, but he walked. Every once in a while he would stop walking, but as he reached the end, he would speed up. I started holding cheese in front of him and feeding him little pieces. He soon forgot the floor was moving and walked, concentrating on the cheese. At one point I tried backing up to take a better picture, however Bruno tried to follow me and he jumped off. I knew I needed to get him back on and walking. I have to be the one to end the walk, not him. I stopped the treadmill, put him back on and started it back up again. Bruno walked nicely. When we were done, I turned it off and had him sit on it for a little while. Then I called him down. Bruno did well for his first treadmill walk. He's now tuckered out in his bed. Worm Medicine Three weeks have gone by, so Bruno and Allie received their second dose of worm medicine. They also got new tick collars. We use Revolution because the fox passes mange around to all of our dogs. Revolution covers everything but ticks. Jumping on People The issue of jumping on people has not crossed my mind in a while, because Bruno has been very good about this. However at our recent trip to the dog park, I realized just how well Bruno does with not jumping on people when a 6-month-old Boxer constantly jumped on my daughter and me with muddy feet, while the owner did nothing to stop him. I am happy to report Bruno keeps his feet on the ground when meeting people. He does lick and curl his body practically in a ball as they pet him, but he doesn't jump. When the UPS guy pulls up to the house, my Boxers always go out to greet him. Bruno's entire back end wags and he licks the guy, but he never jumps on him. He did however, submissively pee on his foot once this week while the guy was petting him. Although Bruno has not peed on him since, I always remind the guy to watch his feet while he pets Bruno. Good thing it's always outside! Bad-Puppy Moments For all you teachers out there: it's true, it's true! Dogs really do eat homework! My daughter had just printed out a paper for one of her projects. Before she could get to the printer and get her paper, Bruno carried it to his bed and started to eat it. I was not able to correct him, because I didn't catch him taking the paper. For me to correct him now would only confuse him. So I took a picture instead. I'll be watching the printer in case he decides to be a homework thief again! In this post I will share my experience with the Petsite Treadmill for my 60 pound, high-energy dog. I have a high energy dog. I started looking into a dog treadmill after a couple of Cesar Millan episodes. I noticed that other trainers on youtube were using treadmills and recommending this exercise regiment to clients with high energy dogs and dogs with behavior issues. My go to for anything is Amazon, plus this dog treadmill is currently listed cheapest there. If you decide to use Amazon, like I do, just be careful you buy from the Petsite Store which currently has ratings at 4. Another seller also offers the same treadmill, but only has 13 reviews and only four stars. Petsite Treadmill for Dogs Leash Bar and Blinders Besides size, one of the biggest factors that separate a dog treadmill from a person treadmill are the side blinders and the top leash bar. Even though it has a leash bar. I feel that the blinders and leash bar are just fine and work well for my dogs height. Though my dog is a little bigger than most dogs who use this treadmill. All the tools needed to put it together were included, including watch batteries for the remote control. The only assembly was putting the bars together and plugging the screen in which you can see on page five in the manual. It is helpful if your dog already understands how to respond to leash pressure. Use treats and lots of positive reinforcement to encourage the dog to get up on the treadmill. Dimensions When assembled the treadmill is .I love how compact it is. I do love how compact it is! It fits right in the corner for now! Speed ranges from 0. There are 12 built in training programs to take your dog through a comprehensive workout. Wireless Remote This is kind of a cool feature I was not expecting when I ordered my treadmill! Batteries are included. Red Safety Clip The most essential part of any pet treadmill is the red clip. This red clip will promptly stop the treadmill if the magnet is pulled from the screen in case of an emergency. It will get a little dirty… These pictures were taken about three days after getting my treadmill all set up. My dog was extremely nervous about getting on the treadmill so we had to us a lot of treats in training her to be comfortable with it… which means there was some drool. It cleans up fine with an all purpose cleaner and a paper towel though. This is also why we got her her own treadmill, rather than sharing a human treadmill. I probably should have gotten my dog a longer treadmill. Below I have pictures of both my dogs on it for reference. Cooper, 80 pound Boxer Mix. However, this was really only a fear I had at first. Dog Endorsed has a great article reviewing nine other treadmills , including the Petsite Treadmill! Petsite Dog Treadmill Review: Overall, if your dog is under 60 pounds, the Petsite Treadmill is a great starter treadmill to help get your dogs energy under control. If you have a little more money to spend I might go for a self-propelled treadmill from FirePaw or for a treadmill like the GoPet which is longer and has a front bar , but the Petsite Treadmill is a great model for the price and does the job! This post was all about the Petsite Treadmill. Other posts you might like:.

They are also popular choices for families with allergies, as they do not shed as much as other breeds. Poodle Mixes come in a wide variety of sizes, shapes, and colors, making them one of the most popular hybrid dog breeds. While all Poodle Mixes share some common features, their individual personalities can vary widely. Some Poodle Mixes are confident and outgoing, while others are more reserved and shy. Some breeds tend to be independent thinkers, while others are more eager to please. The best way to determine what personality type is right for you is to meet with a local breeder or rescue organization that specializes in Poodle Mixes. Poodle Mix Puppy Health Considerations Though generally very happy and long-lived — with an average lifespan of around years — our Poodle Mixes for sale are not without their unique health concerns. Like every breed of dog, there are a few conditions you should be aware of before you consider purchasing one of our Poodle Mix puppies for sale. Understanding the risks allows you to know the signs and prevent small health concerns from turning into big ones. Of course, not all Poodle Mixes will develop these conditions, but it is important to be aware of them. Finding a Poodle Mix puppy for sale from a reputable breeder can also dramatically — although, not eliminate — the risk of your dog developing some of these conditions. Regardless of the type of Poodle Mix you have, there are a few things you need to know about coat care. First, regular brushing is essential to prevent mats and tangles. Finally, Poodle Mixes need to be groomed every weeks by a professional groomer. This includes a bath, brush out, trimming of the coat, and nail clipping. By following these simple coat care tips, you can help your Poodle Mix look and feel his best. Meet Poodle Mix Puppies for Sale. Look no further! Whether you desire a standard-sized Poodle or a tiny Teacup Poodle, our platform has something for everyone. Browse our listings from ethical Poodle breeders and find the perfect furry companion to join your family. What are Teacup Poodle Puppies? Teacup Poodle puppies are delightful mini versions of the elegant Poodle breed. Bred to be smaller than the standard Poodles, these tiny pups are irresistibly cute and highly sought after. Despite their size, Teacup Poodle puppies possess all the wonderful qualities of their larger counterparts, including their intelligence and affectionate nature. What is the Average Size of Teacup Poodles? Teacup Poodles have a compact and petite build, making them perfect for cuddling and carrying around. When fully grown, these tiny canines usually stand around 7 to 9 inches tall at the shoulder. Their small size makes them ideal for indoor living and suits various living environments, including apartments and smaller homes. Despite their diminutive stature, Teacup Poodles have big hearts filled with love and devotion for their human families. They are quick learners and excel in obedience training. Along with their intelligence, Poodles are affectionate and loving companions, forming strong bonds with their human families. They are known for being social and friendly with both children and other pets, making them a perfect fit for families of all sizes. Our listings feature ethical Poodle breeders who prioritize the well-being and health of their puppies. Each Teacup Poodle for sale on our platform is raised with care and attention, ensuring they are well-socialized and ready to become a beloved member of your family. About Jules Hello there! I want you to pick me! I love to snuggle and be as cute as can be! Being loved makes me happy and all I want is a nice family to take care of me. I love to play and to take long naps. Make the call now and find out how to bring me home! Reviews There are no reviews yet.

American Pit Bull: Boxer Puppy Biting and Nipping When we talk about Boxer puppies biting children, both younger and older kids, toys or even biting at your feet, what most are actually talking about is nipping. There is a huge difference between the 2 words. A nip is a quick snap of the jaws, it can be done in the air close to a person or it can make skin contact yet it is a pinch type bite that often does not break the skin. Boxer puppies and even older dogs nip, not to attack someone, but to send a warning. The warning is not necessarily that of an impending attack… Boxer puppy nipping is done for one of several reasons: As play — Young pups are used to nipping at their littermates as a form of play and this may carry over as they transition into their new home. If a Boxer puppy is biting a lot, it may be an issue of the dog needing to learn the rules of the home and needing to learn that was used to be acceptable with other pups is no longer acceptable with his humans. A Method of Sending a Message — Boxer dogs of any age may nip for many reasons. Unable to vocalize, the nip is a message. Often it is a low growl, lasting just seconds, with teeth bared. In some cases, there will only be a growl as the dog lowers his back, hunches over and bares his teeth yet does not actually physically bite. On the other hand, an actual bite not a nip is a full force, aggressive action in which the jaws lock down and teeth puncture the skin. The dog intends to inflict injury and the person on the other end often receives it unless thick clothing gets in the way, etc. In the following section we will discuss how to stop a Boxer dog from biting in the sense that the dog is actually nipping and it is not a full force, aggression bite meant to do serious harm. Training to Stop Boxer Puppy to Stop Biting and Nipping Overview Many owners feel, and rightfully so, that a bite is a serious issue and a behavior that needs to be addressed immediately. For this reason, they feel that taking serious action is the only way to stop the behavior… and this is where things can go wrong. And this is because it does not teach the dog what he needs to learn. Yelling, hitting or otherwise intimidating a puppy or dog will only serve to make the dog afraid of his owner. Alternatively, some dogs will see this as a challenge. So, owners must choose: Fear or respect. For a happy, healthy environment in which humans and canines live in peace, the Boxer or any other dog should be taught to respect his humans, not fear them. In addition, for a dog that bites, physically isolating him will stop the problem short term…while the dog is taken away of course he is not biting anyone…. It is a huge mistake to miss out on a chance to train a dog to stop biting. Of course, in the rare chance that a dog is full out biting, causing injury and is clearly dangerously aggressive, the dog should be removed… And measures must be taken to keep the family safe from any potential attacks…but again, this does not relate to puppy nipping, play biting or nipping due to teething, etc. Training a Boxer puppy to stop biting takes a bit of mental will power. You may have heard this before: Ignore the puppy. There is no other way for a dog to interpret this, as it is canine mentality. His humans and any other animals in the home are his pack. Every single pack that exists has a leader. Having a leader is a defining element of a pack. Problems can arise when a dog does not have a clear understanding of who that leader is. Humans begin eating. Two to three minutes pass. Once the dog obeys, a delicious and healthy meal is set down for him. So, once a dog knows that his human is in charge, how does this training stop the Boxer from biting….? When a Boxer understands that his human s are his leader s , being ignored is akin to being rejected by pack. A dog will suddenly be very humbled. He will worry that his pack has turned their backs on him… he will question his behavior and, when done correctly, he will make the connection that his action of biting caused a major problem with his standing in his family…. If you were both on the floor, stand up. If you were holding him, place him down. If you were both sitting on the sofa, rise up. This means zero talking, absolutely no looking in his direction…nothing. As a Boxer puppy works very hard to gain attention of any one in the house, everyone even those who were not bitten should be completely indifferent to the dog. Allow 10 minutes to pass. Now, when you are doing this, 2 minutes may feel like 20, so take a look at the clock and then choose an activity flip through the TV, check your email, get a drink…do whatever you want, but do remain in the house so that your Boxer can see that you are ignoring him and wait it out. After those 10 minutes, it is time to speak to your Boxer, but not engage him in any activity yet. Many times, the puppy will test things out. Simply mull around near your dog, speaking a bit and acting matter-of-fact. Do not give praise. Wait things out for about 5 minutes. If your Boxer does not nip or bite at you, it will be time to go back to the position that you were in when the bite occurred. It is at this time that if your Boxer does not nip at you that praise and attention can be given. If the dog does bite again, the complete ignoring method of training must be done — this means that the dog is testing things to see if it was indeed his nip that caused his temporary outcast from the pack. Dogs , Puppy training Alex Andes Beyond Puppy Biting: When Mouthy Behavior Continues Into Adolescence If you have a puppy under six months of age, play biting is a very normal albeit annoying and often painful part of your puppy's development. For bitey pups under six months of age, read this blog. But what happens when your dog's biting is lingering beyond that six-month mark, or you acquire an adolescent or adult dog that comes into your home with a chompy mouth? First of all, don't get too alarmed just yet. Excessive play biting in adolescence is still not an indicator of future aggression. The vast majority of adolescent dogs we work with that are still showing mouthiness with people have some or all of these three factors contributing to the behavior: 1. Needs are not being met. Meeting a dog's most basic needs is simple: provide food, water, shelter, love them, play with them. The first thing you should do to stop your adolescent or adult dog's mouthy behavior is take a look at how you can provide a more physically and mentally enriching day-to-day life for your dog, while still working within what's reasonable for your own schedule. A few ideas: Ensure you're feeding your dog three times a day up to a year of age sometimes longer for giant breed dogs and that you have appropriately increased food based on their growth. With your vet's approval, you can typically drop to two meals a day by one year of age. Provide short minute training sessions a day to work on basic obedience, tricks — whatever you want. Offer mental enrichment options — see our Day Training Challenge for training and enrichment tutorials and ideas. Increase your dog's physical exercise — playing in the backyard is simply not enough. Options include adding a daily walk, a game of fetch, taking an obedience class or getting involved in a dog sport. Find what works for both you and your dog — if it's not something you both enjoy, one of you will get burned out quickly. The behavior is being reinforced. In order to address this issue, we have to look at why it's lingering. What is the function of the behavior for your dog? As puppies, biting was a way for them to try to instigate play and attention, explore the world, and burn off some teething frustration. Which of those three still serves a functional purpose in an older dog? Instigating play and attention. Whatever you are currently doing as a reaction to your dog's biting is reinforcing the behavior — in short, your dog thinks it's worth doing it again. Yelling "no," pushing your dog away, running away, etc. Or if you do something too forceful or scary, you run the risk of losing your dog's trust and causing more serious issues. So instead, find the least dramatic way that you can stop reinforcing the behavior. Do not look at your dog or talk to them when they start biting. Cross your arms and do not engage your dog with your hands. You can block more intense advances from your dog by lifting up the side of your leg like a wall do not knee your dog in the chest, please! If you find it too difficult to ignore your dog, you can remove yourself from the room or go behind a gate, but you must do so without it become a fun game of chase. Your dog will come back harder a few times as they try to figure out why their usual method of attention-seeking isn't working, but if you stay consistent, they will ultimately give up and go grab a toy or settle down elsewhere. The behavior is intrinsically reinforcing for your dog. If you're reading the above thinking "I've tried this, and I'm still not seeing the changes I want to see", then this may be a game-changing answer for you. Some dogs are selectively bred to enjoy things like chasing, grabbing, biting, or stalking. This is what makes dogs excellent at certain jobs — police dogs, military working dogs, herding dogs, ratting dogs, etc. While we see this in herding breed dogs and terriers most frequently, it can apply to any individual dog. This doesn't mean that a dog that enjoys to bite is an aggressive dog — it just means that the dog may find the act of chasing, biting, tugging, etc. These dogs don't need these instincts "trained out of them" — that's not fair or realistic — but instead need outlets for that natural drive. Remember: many adolescent dogs need an outlet for their natural drives! Here are few things to try, in addition to the recommendations from points 1 and 2: Add a flirt pole to your daily routine, times a day. This is my favorite activity for dogs that naturally enjoy chasing, nipping, and biting, as it's an excellent outlet and easy for most dog owners to use. You can make your own, or this is our favorite one to purchase. Simply run the toy on the ground back and forth, eventually allowing your dog to grab it if she wants. We recommend using this drop technique to teach your dog to drop the toy at the end of the game. Play tug with your dog, with some rules. If your dog grabs your hand instead of the toy, game over. Teach your dog to drop the tug when asked. Use a good, sturdy tug toy like this one. The key is, you're still letting your dog know that biting people isn't appropriate, but you're also giving them an outlet for that natural instinct. For additional information and tips on puppy biting, we have another blog on the topic here. Need professional guidance on your play biting issues? We offer private and group online dog training that's accessible from anywhere in the world. More details here , or contact us. Dogs , Puppy training Alex Andes Puppy Biting: What's Normal, What's Not, and How to Curb It One of the most common issues we see poor dog training advice given for is puppy biting and mouthiness, so we're going to give you the most standardized professional advice possible for this issue. There's a reason why it's discouraged for non-professionals to give legal or medical advice to strangers on the Internet. At best, their advice could be wrong; at worst, it could it be potentially dangerous. We so wish the same rules applied to dog training advice. Puppies go through at least two fear periods in their first year of life, so when those sensitive puppy brains are involved, it's especially important to follow professional instruction! They go through an uncomfortable teething process that lasts for months. They play hard with their siblings, often using their teeth to successfully instigate play and attention. Herding breed dogs are predisposed to nip, herd, and chase small, fast-moving things. Young children often get the brunt of this behavior. Retrievers are predisposed to picking up and holding anything and everything within reach, including your hands and arms. A word on what to avoid: Above all else, avoid physical punishment when it comes to puppy biting. I have heard people given terrible albeit, well-meaning advice over the years, from squeezing your puppy's mouth shut, to pinning them on their backs, to muzzling them to stop the biting. Physical punishments like this range from silly and ineffective to cruel and downright abusive. In fact, you can create fear and aggression in your dog using these types of methods. So, what should you do about puppy biting? When you bring a puppy into your home, it's your job to create fair, consistent boundaries for unwanted behaviors, including when it comes to teeth on skin. Note: You are not putting your puppy in a time out. That involves way too much time, talking, and attention to be an effective punishment. You are either ignoring the behavior or removing yourself from it. That means play is over, fun is over, attention is over. Be as non-dramatic as possible. If the behavior is hard for you to ignore, go behind a door or baby gate where your puppy does not have access to continue nipping at you. If your puppy tries to nip at you when you return, remove yourself again. You should see a major decrease in the intensity of biting as well as the amount of biting attempts within a few days. An Important Caveat: Some puppies find the act of a person walking away reinforcing. If your puppy seems to enjoy you removing yourself as a game of chase, you can alternatively use the side of your leg not your knee, please! You may have to block them multiple times before they stop trying; don't give up! And most importantly, still avoid yelling or using your hands — bitey puppies tend to find both of these things very exciting. Remember, it's normal for young puppies to explore the world with their mouths. Things to keep in mind: Be sure to give your pup attention and praise when they are behaving nicely! All family members and guests MUST be consistent in order for this to work! Be aware that even doing everything right, this behavior may not go away entirely until months of age. Remember, this is a normal developmental period in puppies. For extra-bitey puppies, or those that are biting after months of age, this blog will help give you some additional tips and recommendations. Why Does This Work? A behavior that doesn't get reinforced will stop. Your pup will learn that we don't react to biting with play, attention, or even a negative reaction. All of these things can be fun for a puppy. Your pup will learn to self-entertain. Once they realize the nipping isn't working, they will eventually redirect themselves onto something else. Your puppy will seek out appropriate ways to get your attention, like offering a "sit" or laying at your feet. A few other suggestions: It's also important to have a management place for your puppy, such as a play pen or baby-gated bathroom. It gives you a break from your puppy, and is a calm place for your puppy to settle down if he gets too wound up. Make sure your puppy has plenty of rubbery teething toys, is getting daily exercise, and is not excessively crated. If his needs are not being met, the nipping will take longer to extinguish. Make sure your puppy is eating three meals a day. Things we may think are punishing, like pushing your puppy away, yelling at him, etc, can be considered fun, play-like behaviors for your puppy and can encourage biting. When doing the above exercise, be as quiet and calm as you can. When should you be concerned about biting in puppies? You should seek out a certified professional if your puppy: Is growling, snapping, or biting when a person comes near a resource. Food, toys, etc Stiffens and stares at the person before biting. Is consistently biting and breaking skin. Barks, growls, or nips not in play at new people entering the home. Snaps or growls at children. What if it's not getting better? Remember, we do not expect this behavior to go away entirely until at least months of age. We also need to take into consideration a dog's breed, social history, and any medical conditions that could be contributing. For example, if a puppy has an intestinal parasite that's depleting their nutritional stores, we often see an uptick in biting. For extra guidance with extremely bitey puppies, or those that are still regularly biting after 6 months of age, check out these additional tips. Need professional guidance on your puppy biting issues? We offer private and group online dog training that's accessible from anywhere in the world. More details here , or contact us.

When we use the term "white spotting" we simply mean white areas on the dog, not actually white spots. White spotting can occur on any colour, and will cover up both eumelanin and phaeomelanin. In technical terms this is known as epistasis. So any dog can have white markings, whether they're black, blue, liver, isabella, brindle, sable, tan-pointed, merle or whatever. White hair occurs when the skin cells are unable to produce any pigment. The white spotting gene impairs the ability of cells on particular parts of the skin to make pigment, so the skin becomes pink and the fur white. Nails and paw pads will also become pink in areas where pigment is not produced. So far, only two white alleles have been proven to exist on the S locus: S - no or very minor white sp - piebald A third allele may exist for "extreme white" sw , however this has not been proven and so far all dogs with high white have been shown to be homozygous for sp instead. The white spotting alleles are thought to be examples of incomplete dominance. This means that a heterozygous dog will express its most dominant gene, but may also be affected by the more recessive one to a lesser extent. For example an Ssp dog may have some white spotting see below. However, the relationship between the alleles is complicated and can vary between breeds. It has been shown that some dogs with white spotting do not have an sp allele at all. These are mostly dogs with "true" irish spotting in other words, irish spotting that breeds true - this should be made clear further down the page. The allele that causes this pattern has not yet been identified and it is not known if it is also located on the S locus. For the purposes of this site we will refer to this gene as si, but remember that it is most likely located on a different locus to sp. Spread of White Whichever white pattern a dog has, its white will always follow the same rules of spread. White starts on the farthest "edges" of the dog - the tail tip, the tip of the muzzle, the paws and the tip of the breastbone. This is known as the "trim" pattern. From there it spreads to cover the muzzle and forehead, the front of the chest, the lower legs and more of the tailtip, creating irish spotting. Next it spreads round from the front to the back of the neck, and creeps up the legs and tail. On a piebald dog, only the head, back and tail base may still be coloured. The back colouring is the next to go, followed by the tail base, then the face markings. The ears will always remain coloured unless the dog has a very high amount of white. The ears are generally the last part of the dog to turn white. Of course the idea of white "spreading" is metaphorical, to give you a picture of how white patterning works. White doesn't spread like this on one particular dog i. Although puppies do often lose or gain a little colour as they grow , it's just to show which areas remain coloured on dogs with more and more white. One way to think of it is that the dog retains colour best in the most important areas of its body - around its internal organs body and tail base patches and its brain ears and face patches - and loses colour easiest from the parts farthest from these areas. In technical terms, pigment "migrates" to different parts of the body during the development of the embryo, and the S gene determines how far the pigment migrates. Sometimes it simply doesn't reach the furthest extremities this can be caused by a minor problem or illness during development , and this can result in a small amount of white trim on a dog without sp, for example a small chest patch on an otherwise solid-coloured dog. Of course this means that technically, white doesn't spread at all - it's actually the colour that spreads. The white rules aren't set in stone - sometimes individual dogs can have unusual white patterns, where, for example, the white on the legs is very uneven, or they have piebald patches in unexpected places, like on the neck or chest. However, in general, they do hold relatively true. Residual White and White Trim A very small amount of white on the chest, toes or tail may occur when the pigment doesn't migrate fully as the embryo develops. This is known as residual white and can sometimes be caused by minor illness in the mother or in the embryo, or may have no obvious cause at all. There is no particular genetic basis for residual white, however it's clear that some dogs have a predisposition to it which can be passed on to their offspring. If a slightly larger amount of white is present then the dog may be heterozygous for sp, in other words Ssp. In a breed such as the Newfoundland you would get such a dog from crossing a "Landseer" piebald, spsp with a solid SS. However, in breeds carrying piebald there is no real way to know whether minimal white markings are just residual white or indicate the presence of the piebald gene without genetic testing or test breeding, as piebald heterozygotes may have anything from a tiny chest spot to pseudo-irish markings see below. We can assume that the two dogs above are SS and that their markings are just residual white. This is because neither breed comes in piebald or irish spotting. If either of these dogs did have an sp or si gene then we would expect to see dogs with much more white being produced in these breeds, but this doesn't happen. As it is, their white is non-genetic and breeding two dogs with white markings in these breeds will not necessarily produce puppies with any white at all. This Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a possible piebald heterozygote i. We can't know for sure, but this is the most likely explanation for its white chest patch as the Staffie breed is known to commonly have the piebald gene. If this dog were bred to another sp carrier then some of the puppies may be piebalds and have much more white than either of their parents. Irish Spotting Pattern Irish spotting si is the pattern sometimes known as "boston" or "mantle", although these terms do not always refer to "true" irish spotting. On a dog with irish spotting, white is found on the legs, the tip of the tail, the chest, neck and muzzle. Many dogs with this pattern have a full white neck ring and a blaze. True irish spotting is caused by an as yet unidentified gene, but we can assume irish spotted dogs to be homozygous for it sisi as it breeds true. This means that two irish spotted dogs bred together will produce puppies with irish spotting, and the white will not increase. We can assume that a solid dog bred to an irish spotted dog will produce a heterozygous dog with less white a white trim, as shown in the section above. The term "irish spotting" actually comes from a term used in the early 20th century to describe a white pattern found in rats in Ireland. None of these breeds regularly come in piebald or extreme white and their white markings breed true implying they are homozygotes. Pseudo-Irish "Pseudo" irish spotting may look the same or very similar to true irish spotting, but is in fact not caused by sisi but by Ssp, i. The incomplete dominance of S means that an Ssp dog may show up to roughly half the amount of white as an spsp dog. These dogs do not breed true and when two are crossed the puppies may be solid, piebald or inbetween. See below for an example of this in Boxers. Note that not all Ssp dogs show much white, or in some cases any white at all. The amount of white on a piebald heterozygote appears to vary drastically and some may look exactly like homozygous solids. The three breeds above Staffie, Podengo Portugueso and English Pointer all carry piebald but are not known to carry irish spotting, so these dogs are most likely pseudo-irish. Finally, a "flashy" irish spotted dog one with more white than usual may be caused by a combination of si and sp. If a true irish spotted dog also carries an sp allele then the normal white pattern may be extended. This supports the theory that si is actually on a different locus, as the two alleles appear to be inherited completely separately. This has been shown to occur in Shelties, where dogs carrying the sp allele as well as irish spotting can usually be identified by having more white around the neck and underside of the body. An spsp Sheltie has a high amount of white and is known as a "colour-headed white". Shelties are one breed known to carry both true irish spotting and the sp allele, but many breeds only have one or the other. This irish spotted merle Sheltie has a large amount of white and may be a piebald carrier. Piebald carriers are often referred to as "white-factored" and are generally identified by having white extending further up the hind legs onto the knees. Piebald Pattern Piebald spsp usually produces a coloured head with or without white on the muzzle and as a blaze , and patches on the body. Generally the base of the tail is coloured, but other than that the patches may be located anywhere on the body but rarely on the legs. Because piebald is a recessive gene and heterozygotes piebald carriers don't always have any white markings, it can remain hidden and pop up unexpectedly. Both the Poodle as shown here and the Shar Pei, traditionally solid-coloured breeds, occasionally produce piebald known as "flowered" in Shar Pei. Extreme White Pattern The extreme white pattern consists of a completely or predominantly white dog with just small amounts of colour on its head and sometimes base of tail. Small body patches may be present too. Sometimes the nose is pink or partly pink, and the eyes may be blue in some breeds due to lack of pigment. So far all extreme white dogs that have undergone genetic testing have been shown to be homozygous for the piebald gene spsp , just like the piebalds in the section above. However, as there is a fairly large difference between those dogs and the ones shown below, it is possible there is something else going on to cause the high white. In breeds with both true irish spotting and piebald the high white may simply be caused by the interaction between homozygous irish spotting and homozygous piebald e. In other breeds the cause is less obvious and has led some people to postulate a further S allele - sw. However, no evidence has yet been found for the existence of sw, on the S locus at least. Extreme white can occasionally cause problems when it removes large amounts of pigment from the face and ears. The most common problem is deafness due to lack of pigment in certain parts of the inner ear, which prevents it from functioning properly , but dogs with exposed unpigmented pink skin are also more prone to skin cancer than those with more pigment. Split Faces and White Heads There is thought to be a separate gene or modifier that causes some dogs with the irish spotting, piebald or trim pattern to have a split or completely white face, even if there's very little other white on the dog. A split face is when half of the face is white and the other half is coloured. Split and completely white faces are particularly common in the bull-type breeds, e. English Bulldog and Staffordshire Bull Terrier. Saxon the Staffie submitted by Christina Jacobs see Saxon's Facebook page here , and Beagle submitted by Viktoria Kastner Ticking and Roan Any white areas on a dog, no matter how big or small, may be ticked or roaned due to the T gene. The ticking corresponds to the colour the area of the coat would have been if it wasn't white, which means that it can vary across the body. See the Ticking page for more information. The solid black on the head is the actual markings, and the solid appearance of the rest of the coat is created by very heavy roaning, including the tan points. This dog will have been born white with colour on the head only, as roaning develops later. The Large Munsterlander to the right shows heavy ticking on a piebald dog. Ticking is generally lighter than roaning, and the individual spots may be larger. White Boxers Boxers generally come in what appears to be the irish spotting pattern, so we would expect most examples of the breed to have sisi on the S locus. However, sometimes Boxer puppies are born which are completely or almost completely white. How these puppies could be regularly born to parents with much more colour perplexed Boxer breeders for a long time. However, we can now provide an answer to this. Boxers do not have the si allele, and supposedly irish spotted Boxers are actually pseudo-irish - i. When two pseudo-irish dogs are bred together some of the puppies will be homozygous piebalds spsp. Boxers with no piebald allele can still have residual white on the extremities, and pseudo-irish dogs can have anything from a very small amount of white to full irish markings, which can sometimes make it difficult to distinguish a piebald carrier from a non-carrier. The illustrations above show the range of white markings in Boxers. It is likely that the sp allele here is affected by a modifier that extends the white markings, as white boxers are always extreme white instead of normal piebald pattern. White puppies can therefore be mostly avoided by always breeding irish-marked dogs to solid dogs, although care must be taken when it is unclear whether a dog is genetically solid or pseudo-irish, as it is possible for solid dogs to carry a piebald allele and not express it at all or only partly. White Boxers come with many of the problems associated with high-white dogs, including a high rate of deafness. Although these dogs look like they have irish spotting, the pattern is actually caused by a different gene entirely, known as "KIT". Heterozygous dogs have no known health problems linked to the gene, however. Harlequin in Great Danes is another example of an embryonic lethal in dogs, although caused by a different gene to panda. Some panda Shepherds have blue eyes, however this is not linked to the KIT gene. Another observation is that many panda Shepherds have split faces and very few seem to have the neat blazes often associated with true irish spotting or the piebald gene. A few similar spontaneous white mutations in other breeds have been shown to have been caused by the same gene, including a mutation in Weimaraners. However, these mutations are very rare and the German Shepherd seems to be the only breed where a KIT mutation has become established. One example is as part of the double merle pattern. A double merle will almost always have more white than its parents, and will often appear to have the piebald or extreme white pattern when in fact it does not carry those alleles. The harlequin gene also causes a similar effect. See the Merle page for more information. White can also occur due to dilution of phaeomelanin by the I locus. Phaeomelanin is red pigment, and the I locus can dilute it to cream, ivory or sometimes even white. Breeds such as the Samoyed have this second type of dilution, so they appear completely white but in fact it's not due to white spotting. They are recessive red so they cannot produce any black pigment with dilution of their red pigment to white, resulting in a solid white dog with black nose pigment. They also test as homozygous for recessive black, but it seems the recessive red overrides this. The main way to tell a dog with extreme white spotting apart from a dog with phaeomelanin dilution is to look at the pigment on the nose, lips and eyerims. A dog with extreme white spotting is likely to be missing some pigment in these areas, so they will be partly or completely pink. A dog with phaeomelanin dilution will have solid black in all these areas possibly with a dudley nose, which are common on dogs with dilution - see the Nose Colours page. These two dogs a Siberian Husky and a Finnish Lapphund are genetically black and tan atat , but with dilution of their tan points to white, most likely to due the Northern domino Ed gene. It can be easy to mistake diluted points on a domino or black-and-tan dog for white markings, but points will generally be in a very regular and symmetrical pattern. The Husky has actual white spotting as well - note the irregular pattern on the chest and the thin blaze on the muzzle. Urajiro is another phaeomelanin dilution pattern that can look like white markings. Urajiro is when the dilution is confined to the "points" of the dog, like on the Shiba Inu here. See the Phaeomelanin Dilution page for more information. Some dogs can have both phaeomelanin dilution and white spotting, like the Pembroke Welsh Corgi pictured above. This dog has the white collar associated with irish spotting, but also the symmetrical cheeks associated with urajiro. If you look closely, you can see that the cheeks are an "off-white" colour, not bright white like the collar. First photo provided by Tina West, second by Dee Allison These two Dachshunds look just like piebalds, but they're actually double merles and most likely don't have any S-locus white markings at all. The pattern produced by double merle is strikingly similar to a homozygous piebald, although it can sometimes be less regular and extreme split faces going all the way down the muzzle are very common as on the second dog. One of these dogs is not like the others. All are "false" whites except for one, which is an extreme white piebald. If you guessed the Staffie, you'd be right. She has pink around her eyes, ears, muzzle and underside a sign of lack of pigment, associated with extreme whites and a few dark spots on her ears. All the other dogs are recessive reds ee or clear sables with phaeomelanin dilution. Note the slight cream sheen on the coat of the German Spitz, Samoyed and Shiba, and the jet black lip and eye rim pigment on all of them. The Shiba has a dudley nose, often associated with recessive red. Quick Summary! No time to read the whole thing? Here's the quick version! The S locus in dogs has two known alleles: S no white markings , and sp piebald. Due to incomplete dominance, one copy of the piebald allele results in a dog with minor white markings often called the "trim" pattern , and two copies causes piebald or extreme white. A very wide range of patterns is caused by sp. In addition to sp, there is another allele known as si irish spotting , which is most likely located on a different locus. The combination of si alleles and sp alleles is thought to cause most of the range of white markings found in dogs. Recently a rare mutation has been found in another gene known as KIT, and this causes the white markings on "panda" German Shepherd Dogs. This gene causes white markings in a number of mammals and is often associated with blue eyes and deafness. The link between MITF and eye colour and hearing in dogs seems to be weaker than in some other species, although many high-white breeds such as Bull Terriers and Dalmatians do suffer from high rates of deafness. Interestingly, mutations in MITF have no link to skin colour in humans but do cause eye and sight issues. In other species, some white markings are also caused by the KIT gene. KIT is an extremely important gene and plays a role in stem cells and in the digestive tract, and some mutations in this gene not those associated with white markings! Most mutations in KIT causing white markings have no associated health problems when heterozygous, but are embryonic lethals when homozygous. KIT is responsible for "black-eyed white" phenotypes in many species, and has no association with either blue eyes or deafness. In dogs, KIT mutations have so far been confirmed in "panda" German Shepherds and in Weimaraners, but are not thought to be widespread. No mutations in this gene have been found in dogs, however in horses EDNRB causes "lethal whites" overo lethal white syndrome , where homozygous foals do not have a fully functioning digestive system and die soon after birth. Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, and I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links. German Shepherd feet come in a variety of sizes and shapes, and even have their own set of paw problems. The SV standards state that the German Shepherd paws are rounded, short, well-closed and arched. The pads are very hard, but not chapped or too rough. The nails are dark, short, and strong. Dewclaws may appear sometimes on the hind legs and are removed during the first few days after birth. Nails are short and dark. Dewclaws on the forelegs may be removed, but are normally left on and accepted. The dewclaws, if any, should be removed from the hind legs. Pads well-cushioned and durable. With short nails, strong and dark in color. Dewclaws are removed from the hindlegs. German Shepherd paws come in three basic shapes: cat shape hare shape webbed feet Each shape is suited to particular tasks and ground. Cat feet The cat-shaped foot is small and has a compact, round form. It is built for balance, endurance, and strength. Hare feet While the cat-shaped foot is compact, a hare-footed dog has two elongated central toes that project out from the rest of the paw. This style of foot is intended for speed and quick movement, especially out of a relaxing position. The elongated toes help propel the body forward with quickness and agility, much like the feet of hares or rabbits. Dog breeds with hare feet include the Whippet, Greyhound, and Borzoi. Webbed feet Webbed footed dogs are those built for swimming, but they are similarily proficient on land and especially boggy or slippery surfaces. Many hunting breeds have webbed feet, for example, the Weimaraner, Portuguese Water Dog, and Labrador Retriever which are all hunting breeds. These German Shepherds have long middle toes hare feet shape and the feet on the right have thick pads. These pads provide them with extra cushioning to protect their bones and joints from the shock of running. The pads also provide insulation from weather extremes and aid in walking on rough surfaces like concrete, rocky ground, or asphalt. The Purpose of the Paw The paw pad is made of keratin, collagen, and fatty tissues to serve a number of useful functions. And the pad supports a GSD with balance, decreasing speed, and quick stopping. Here we see the underside of the paw and the dark paw pad. This is a normal, healthy paw pad. Notice the roughed skin? The thick, coarse tissues that form the paw pads do not freeze as quickly or easily as normal skin, so they are able to withstand freezing temperatures for longer periods but only when necessary. The paws are covered in thick, tough skin that feels like sandpaper when rubbed against the grain of their skin. For working breeds, like the German Shepherd Dog, or dogs that spend much of their time outdoors or on rough ground, the paw pads become calloused and coarse. As the dog develops, their paw pads also become highly perceptive and flexible to the ground beneath their feet, which is why you rarely see a German Shepherd lose their footing and slip. Some owners state their German Shepherd has long feet and long toes, for example, the hare foot type we discussed earlier. Furthermore, each type of foot style gives the German Shepherd an advantage. Take a look at these different feet types. The breed information tells us that shorter, more compact feet are the Standard for German Shepherd Dogs, as this foot type provides the dog with better stability and a strong foundation for athletic abilities. Even the smallest cut or tiniest bit of debris can create a large problem for your dog. Here are a few tips for daily foot care and maintenance that are easy and prevent major foot problems from developing. Trim their nail regularly. Coat Hair Trim Some German Shepherds have longer coats and foot hair that sticks out between the toes. Shorter fur is less likely to collect stickers and rocks. Check Between the Toes Check between the toes for any debris, such as rocks, caked-on mud or twigs. Any debris stuck in the toe area can cause discomfort or skin irritation. Remove the debris with a warm cloth and soapy water. Reapply, especially after walking in the snow, on the blacktop, or rocky ground. First Aid Treatment Have supplies on hand for any minor first aid treatment. Wounds, cuts, and abrasions smaller than half an inch are generally treated at home with a mild antibacterial cleanser and a wrap. And taking care of their paws is a routine and easy task that you can do daily. Common causes of foot sensitivity include: running too often on hard or hot surfaces, unclipped fur between the toe pads which snags irritating objects, and overgrown, painful nails. You can prevent paw sensitivity by taking simple precautions. That means YOU are responsible for their feet and you must stay alert to problems before they need serious medical attention. Found this helpful? Share it! She has a Bachelor of Science degree, with Honors, and has been training dogs for over a decade. Related Posts. White markings tend to be determined by the genes on the S locus. The white areas tend to be at the tip of the tail, end of the muzzle, breastbone, or paws. This is known as residual white. The cause may be unknown or may be due to a minor illness in the mother. This transition occurs when the pup is around months old and sheds his soft fluffy coat. This process can happen quickly or may take a few months. You may also see changes in the pattern. Nonetheless, she had many white markings across her chest as a puppy, which soon blended into her thick adult coat. Below is a picture of her at three months old. My 3-month-old German Shepherd Willow showing off her white chest markings! German Shepherds can have white paws. It usually appears on the tips of the paws. This study determined that the variant was associated with one or more spotting patterns in many dog breeds, including the German Shepherd. Regarding paws, white spotting can occur on one paw, all four, or any combination. What is a Panda German Shepherd? So, what exactly are they? They tend to have symmetrical markings of white forelock, muzzle, chest, belly, collar, and tail tip. The amount of white coloring can vary from dog to dog. They are typical-looking German Shepherds, other than their color, and have the same temperament and traits. The first-ever recorded Panda mutation occurred relatively recently in a female GSD in the year .Although these dogs look like they have Irish spotting consisting of white muzzle blazes and Border Collie-type markings, they are very different. This is due to being caused by the mutated dominant KIT gene. The gene that causes Irish spotting is yet to be identified. This allows German Shepherd breeders to establish whether the KIT gene mutation causes white patterning. There are often misunderstandings about whether German Shepherds with white markings can enter dog shows. However, this is a difficult question and depends entirely on the breed standard of the individual country. Strong rich colors are preferred. Pale, washed-out colors and blues or livers are serious faults. A white dog must be disqualified. However, they are still allowed to be registered as purebred. They are also still permitted to participate in events, such as herding trials, tracking, and obedience. However, the consensus is inconspicuous white markings would not disqualify the dog from conformation. The UK Kennel Club also recognizes the all-white German Shepherd but states they are highly undesirable for conformation. However, they also refer to dogs having white markings. There are many varieties of coat colors in the German Shepherd breed. These are the main ones:. A German Shepherd can have natural white patches on them as a puppy that usually disappear into adulthood. Adult dogs might get white patches due to vitiligo, health problems, natural aging, or premature aging caused by stress or genetics. To learn more about German Shepherds and why these white patches might occur, keep reading! German Shepherds are typically bred to have little to no white patches in their coats. This is because they were bred to be animal herders, and only the darker dogs could intimidate the other animals into moving. A dark-furred German Shepherd can have white markings, but this is only an indicator of a breeding fault instead of anything more insidious. That particular German Shepherd has the recessive white gene in its DNA, passed down from one of the parents. If your German Shepherd has a white spot on its chest or paws, but is only a puppy, the spot will likely fade as it gets older. Even if this does not happen, as long as your dog has been registered with the American Kennel Club AKC as purebred, having or not having a white spot does not make it any less of a purebred. If the white spotting is extreme, you might have what is known as a Panda German Shepherd. This is caused by a mutated KIT gene. All-white German Shepherds also do exist, but they are rarer to find. As a result, all-white puppies are usually more expensive than the working kind. These dogs are usually bred from all-white parents or one all-white and one non-all-white with the recessive white gene. An all-white needs to inherit the white gene from both of the parents. That also takes all the health risks associated with albino dogs out of the equation. There is no difference between an all-white, a black dog, or a dog with white spots other than the coat color and, in some cases, hair length. Instead of fixating on coat color, you should be ensuring that your breeder is responsible and does health tests on dogs because some breeders overlook health issues to get the perfect coat color. As your dog gets older and older, those gray hairs will turn whiter. Stress It is common knowledge that stress in humans can cause hair to turn gray faster than usual. It is hypothesized that stress prematurely triggers the graying process — where either aging prevents the production of melanin , the chemical which keeps your skin and hair at the natural color it is, or your hair gets bleached from within via hydrogen peroxide. According to a study published in Applied Animal Behaviour Science , anxiety or stress can replicate this process in dogs. If your dog displays anxiety or impulsivity in the form of the symptoms below, take note. Buy a German Shepherd puppy that should be at least 35 days-old or 40 days-old. Show Line German Shepherds have an angulated back that slopes from high to low as you go from shoulders to rear end, but the Working Line German Shepherds backs are less sloped as compared to Show Line German Shepherds. Color Though German Shepherds are found in many colors, but the most common colors are: Black and tan. Pure black. Pure white. As the puppy will grow, the tan or orangish color will grow upward from claws to body. Some White Line German Shepherds have wolfish gray color as well. As German Shepherd puppy grows its ears droop straight whereas ears of other breeds droop sideways. The distance or gap between the ears of Germans Shepherd is less as compared to other breeds. White Spots When it comes to purity check, the white spots on German Shepherds have always been a debate. To clear your doubt you can carry a DNA test for the identification of breed and ancestry. German Shepherd puppies do have white spots on paws, legs and upper chest. Always remember that these white spots on paws, legs and upper chest will not make German Shepherd impure, it is normal. Some white spots perish naturally as the puppy grows. After 30 years a German Shepherd won this title again, and interestingly this dog has a white spot on his chest. Normally it takes 2 to 3 weeks for your sample to reach the lab. Once it reaches the lab you get customized comprehensive online report. These Dog DNA tests help you to better understand your dog and provide the best possible care, food, training etc, that it deserves. We hope these guidelines will help you to identify the purity of the German Shepherd puppy. Share your feedback in the comments section below. Also Read. Liver These are all approved show-ring standard coat colors in case you want to show your GSD. But is there any way to know for sure what coat color your GSD puppy will have when they grow up? First-time German Shepherd owners are often very surprised to learn that a large breed dog like the German Shepherd can continue growing for 24 to 36 months. An adult German Shepherd dog may weigh anywhere from 50 to 90 pounds and stand anywhere from 22 to 26 inches tall paw pad to shoulder. That is a lot of growth that needs to get done. For this reason, genetically speaking, it is advantageous for a large breed puppy to grow in spurts, spacing it out over time. Canine coat color experts explain that dogs have two basic pigments: eumelanin melanin and phaeomelanin. Eumelanin Eumelanin pigment always defaults to black. Eumelanin not only determines basic coat color but also controls for iris eye colors and nose colors. Phaeomelanin Phaeomelanin always defaults to red. Like eumelanin, the introduction of different genes can determine where on the red spectrum phaeomelanin expresses shows up. Unlike eumelanin, phaeomelanin only affects coat color and not eyes or nose. This is the chart many breeders use to design breeding programs to focus on certain coat colors. Each parent dog contributes a set of genes that control for color: coat color, eye iris color, and nose color as well as skin color. If you have a preference for a specific adult coat color, whether because you want to show your GSD or you are developing your breeding program, the best guarantee is to work closely with a knowledgeable breeder who understands coat color genetics. There is one exception to the coat color change to be aware of: often GSD puppies born with white coats will stay white. The coat is no exception here, as we mentioned in the introduction here. When your GSD puppy is born, all the puppies are typically but not always solid in color. The most common GSD puppy colors are black, grey, or — surprisingly — white. Kennels Von Lotta, a German Shepherd breeder, and kennel have posted this picture of a litter of newborn neonate German Shepherd puppies that were born black. Whelping to 2 weeks The puppies will start to show some differences in coat color and also coat length. By the day mark, breeders say it is often possible to tell if a GSD puppy is potentially going to grow up to have a long coat. As South Florida Shepherds kennel and breeder explains, the very same parent dogs can produce GSD puppies with very different adult coat colors. Because nearly all GSDs are displaying their permanent adult coloration by 18 to 24 months, continued changes or a sudden recurrence of color changes should always be investigated further. Now you know what to watch for as your little fluffy German Shepherd puppy starts to display their full and fabulous adult coat color and pattern.

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The best way to do this would be to buy different types of chew toys, balls and so on. You can find it here. Besides buy different things for the Labradoodle, also make sure that you are activating your dog, and just as important, teach it to active itself! My Labradoodle Chews on the Walls Some grown dogs and puppies also have a tendency to bite on the walls or the wallpapers of your house. Besides the previous advice, I would also recommend trying out the Grannicks Spray Repellant. The spray should be used on those areas of the walls that your dog has a tendency to bite on. This is most commonly because the dog is very excited or perhaps frustrated, and they end up directing those emotions towards you as the leader and leash-holder. Sometimes the reason for this could also be that your Labradoodle is getting bored if you are training exercises where it is supposed to be on a leash. It could also be because of the mood of the dog handler that the dog will try and bite the leash. For example, if the handler is in any way insecure, tensed up, or just generally not feeling confident around the dog, the dog can usually sense this and will also start feeling insecure. If this is the issue and you are not able to find a solution yourself, try consulting a dog behavior expert and hear their advice in your specific case. The 5 Main Reasons a Labradoodle Bites 1. Territory and Property Protecting their property is a very common reason for why a Labradoodle will bite. Usually, this is mostly seen with guard dogs like Rottweilers and German shepherds who will bite to try and protect their property. But this behavior is also seen among every other breed of dog, including Labradoodles. This can be avoided by teaching your Labradoodle to wait until the food bowl is placed on the floor. While getting nearer to placing the bowl on the floor, try giving your Labradoodle a treat so that it will learn that there is nothing wrong with humans being near its food bowl. The dog should be allowed to have some time for itself once in a while. This could be the mailman, paperboy or perhaps the vet. Dogs can also bite out of fear if they are surprised, if for example, your child sneaks up on it to try and give it a scare, or if they are disturbed while they are sleeping. To avoid these fear-related bites, you should socialize your puppy as early as possible. This will allow it to get used to as many different situations as possible that includes new strange people, other animals, and new places. Hereby the risk of an anxiety disorder or other behavior issues is lowered a lot, and this can in turn also means that your dog is much less likely to attempt to bite. If your dog has any general form of anxiety, you should try and find a behavior expert, or perhaps try some Calming Treats. Pain Pain can cause even the kindest of dogs to bite. If your Labradoodle has hip dysplasia , inflammation of the middle ear , or any other painful health issues, this is also often the cause of a Labradoodle biting problem. Also, remember to tell your kids not to touch your dog in the areas that are the cause of the pain. If it feels like your Labradoodle is becoming more and more sensitive, and just generally seems more short-tempered, I would strongly advise you to contact your vet and have it examined. Hunting Instinct A Labradoodle is by nature a hunting dog, so there are still a lot of instincts in the dog regarding hunting. Be very observant of the dog and its movements while always avoiding eye contact. If the dog, on the other hand, knocks you over, you should curl yourself into a ball and protect your face, your hands, and your neck, as these are all areas a dog would usually aim for. And then just stay calm. This is also something you should teach your kids. Maternal Instinct Even the most well-behaved bitch might bite when they have puppies. You should be careful and respect the maternal instinct in a Labradoodle who has just become a mom. And to be especially calm and cautious if they are handling her puppies. Make sure that the mom and her puppies have a safe spot in your house where they can get their required peace and quiet. Warning Signs By knowing the most common reasons that cause biting problems, it is also much easier to avoid the biting from happening. Usually, before biting, a labradoodle will display one or several warning signs. These are also signs that the dog is ready to bite. Playing and exercising also has the benefits that they burn some of that energy that most Labradoodles have. A good idea is though to avoid aggressive games like wrestling or other games where dominance is a deciding factor. Make sure your dog is vaccinated. Allowing your dog to get too close to strangers, not even while under your supervision, if it has a tendency to bite. Overwhelm your Labradoodle while socializing it. And also a good old Dog Muzzle , which is generally great when training a dog. Hopefully, this has helped with your Labradoodle biting problem. If not, let me know, as perhaps I or somebody I know have had your exact problem, and we will try and help you with it. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. By Chris If your Labradoodle is a biter, this behavior can be troublesome, especially if you do not correct it as a puppy. Many different methods can help to keep your pet from biting you or others in your home. How to stop a Labradoodle from biting Biting behaviors in a Labradoodle are not limited to just puppies, unfortunately. Some dogs will develop this negative behavior later on in life. There could be numerous causes as to why your pet is suddenly biting you or others. As a responsible pet owner, it is your job to ensure that your Labradoodle behaves appropriately and has proper manners without biting. Why Is My Labradoodle Biting? A Red Miniature Labradoodle looks happy in the studio. One of the best ways to stop a Labradoodle from biting is to determine the underlying reason why they are biting you. Once you know the cause, you can use an appropriate solution to the problem. Puppies and dogs of all ages will bite for a few reasons, including: Puppies who are teething Your dog is scared or caught off-guard It is in pain Your dog is bored or has excess energy Resource-guarding It is stressed or over-stimulated Your dog wants your attention Puppies Who Are Teething Puppies lose their first set of teeth starting around the age of three months and up to eight months old. During this time, they can be uncomfortable and want to chew and bite anything near them. Alternatively, chewing and biting can help relieve the pressure that the new teeth have on the gums. How To Stop the Biting Provide your Labradoodle puppy with ample chew toys , and durable food chews whenever they try to bite you. You can also purchase specialty dog teething gels to relieve any discomfort they may be feeling from emerging teeth. Did you accidentally scare your sleeping dog to wake up? Sometimes dogs will bite when they are scared or caught off-guard when they do not expect you. This issue frequently happens with older dogs who begin to lose their hearing or sight and do not know someone is close to them. Sometimes this can be by walking around the front of your dog so they can see you before you pet them. If your pet has hearing or sight issues, be mindful of their space and make them visually or auditorily aware of you being close before you touch them. This pre-warning will ensure that you do not catch them off-guard. It Is In Pain Dogs cannot verbally tell us when they are in pain, so they act out in other ways, like biting. So one way to know if your Labradoodle is in pain is if you used to handle them normally, but now they bite you when you touch them. If your dog tries to bite your hand when you reach a specific area, such as a leg or a part of their back, they may be in pain. Can Labradoodles smile? Even health issues like urinary tract infections or stomach problems can make a Labradoodle cranky enough to bite. Your vet can help you rule out any injuries or health problems that could be causing pain for your pet. If this breed does not get enough exercise or mental stimulation, they can act out by biting you or others in the home. Your pet may also run around more with the zoomies while biting at you or objects during this time. It may look cute and be harmless, playful biting when they are young, but it can develop into a more aggressive bite later as they mature. In addition, it can be challenging for your dog to determine a soft, playful bite from a hard one if you allow them to continue this behavior. How To Stop the Biting You can quickly minimize this harmful behavior by ensuring that your Labradoodle receives more physical or mental activity during the day. If you notice your dog beginning to run around and biting, take action immediately. For example, play fetch with your pet, take an extra walk, or provide your Labradoodle with mentally stimulating toys to curb the negative behavior. Two Labradoodles sniff eachother out at a dog park. Resource Guarding Does your Labradoodle bite you when you try to reach for his food dish or toys? Maybe your dog tries to bite you every time you want to sit near your partner on the couch. This biting is most likely due to resource guarding. Resource guarding can happen at any age, unfortunately, and is not only a puppy problem. This negative behavior should not be allowed to continue, as it can worsen over time. While it may start with toys, it can extend to food and even people if you do not address it. How To Stop the Biting Resource guarding can be a serious issue for many pet owners. You should not ignore these actions or try to handle them on your own. Instead, you will want to consult with a professional dog behaviorist for proper methods to correct this behavior as soon as possible. Or maybe you were cranky because you were having a busy day at the office and did not want to talk to anyone. Your dog can have similar days where they become stressed or over-stimulated. The difference is that your Labradoodle may actually bite to tell someone to back out of their space and leave them alone. Kids who bother your dog by poking his face , pulling his ears, or trying to sit on him may bring on a stress response that shows up as biting. Labradoodle playing in a water fountain. What a way to cool off on a warm day! How To Stop the Biting Dogs will often show visible signs of stress before biting. For example, your pet may growl, show teeth, its heckles may stand up, or have stiff body posture. If your Labradoodle indicates these or other signs that it is stressed or over-stimulated, try to alter the environment or put your animal in a safe place, like his crate. Your Dog Wants Your Attention Sometimes when a dog bites at your hands or feet, it is because they want your attention. For example, some Labradoodles will nip your hand then run away, enticing you to chase them and start an entertaining game. This behavior often happens with younger puppies since they will nip and bite at you to look at them and pet or play with them. Puppies are lower to the ground and may bite since that is the only way they can grab your attention. How To Stop the Biting If your Labradoodle is exhibiting playful biting behavior, you want to discourage it sooner than later. Any time they try to bite at your hands or feet, offer them a toy and get down to his level and spend some time with him playing on the floor. Often, sitting on the floor with your pet and having a game of tug for a few minutes will give them the attention they want while providing exercise at the same time. You Can Stop Your Labradoodle From Biting It is possible to successfully stop your Labradoodle from biting once you know the underlying reason for this behavior. Biting in any form should not be tolerated. If you allow it to continue, the problem can worsen since your pet will understand that it is okay to do it since there are no adverse outcomes from biting. There may be a straightforward solution to discourage future biting incidents, or you might have to seek help from a professional animal behaviorist. However, your Labradoodle can be a very social and happy pet without biting with consistency and proper methods. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. Breed-Specific Behaviors Some dog breeds have been specifically bred to work at certain jobs. In the case of the Labradoodle, this breed was created to serve as a guide dog to the blind. But the parent dog breeds, the Labrador Retriever, standard Poodle and Cocker Spaniel for the Australian Labradoodle breed line only are true working gun dogs. The Labrador Retriever is a retriever gundog — a dog trained to grasp and hold downed small game prey in their mouths. The Poodle and Cocker Spaniel are also small bird gundogs. So Labradoodles get their instinctual desire to mouth, grasp, hold and bite things honestly. At some level, you will never completely train your Labradoodle out of this instinct. Learned Biting There is one more category of Labradoodle puppy biting many dog owners overlook and that is learned biting behaviors. While your Labradoodle puppy will have learned a little about tempering their biting from their mother and littermates, your dog will learn far more about that behavior from you. Sometimes dog owners inadvertently reinforce the very behaviors they want to get rid of. Your puppy loves attention from you more than anything and may bite again and again to keep you focused on them. Learning about and applying positive reinforcement puppy training methods is going to be your salvation here. We will explain in more detail in a moment. Find one method that works and use it consistently. Reward your puppy for any calm behavior. This can include calm play, or simply them sitting or laying next to you without biting. And, make sure to ignore biting. If your puppy starts to bite you during play, you can try to redirect their mouth to a toy. If the biting continues, make sure to ignore the behavior completely, and put your puppy in their pen to calm down. Under no circumstances should you ever reward biting! This includes with attention! Doing so can make your puppy more likely to bite during play — it will become a learned behavior, as we spoke about earlier. Should I Punish Puppy Biting? Studies have proven that punishment can have adverse effects on training and management of problematic behaviors. Punishing biting can stop your puppy from biting, but it can also create a level of fear, mistrust, and anxiety. And, as we know, dogs that are scared or nervous are more likely to bite. So, this method of training can also increase the risk of serious biting. Punishing your dog for growling or snarling which often happens during puppy play can also stop your puppy from growling as a warning when they are feeling threatened or scared. Not every dog owner will have the same degree of tolerance for Labradoodle puppy biting, even when it arises from teething pain or another normal cause. Dog trainers use a six-level bite scale to assess how urgent the biting situation may be. Level one is aggression with no biting. Level six is biting to fatality. Clearly there is a wide range of behaviors in between. What Causes Puppy Aggression? But, another common cause is guarding behaviors. Common resource guarding targets include toys , food, food bowls, people, and more. They will be able to help you work with your puppy to deal with the aggression. Your veterinarian will be able to put you in touch with a good behaviorist. Is Your Labradoodle Puppy Biting? Are you at your wits end with Labradoodle puppy biting? Related Articles. While it might be part of their exploration phase or a form of play, they may be doing it for other reasons. This kind of habit, if not nipped in the bud early on, can become a very frustrating behavior for you, your family, and any household guests. The best way to control their biting is to divert their attention away from biting you, with a toy. This teaches them the boundaries of what they can and cannot bite. You can also try simply getting up and walking away when this negative behavior starts. You can also try diverting their attention during episodes of biting with treats, harnessing this energy for a training opportunity. Work on simple tasks like Sit, Down, and even a trick like a Turn. This helps teach them to respond to you rather than their puppy urges. When still with their litter mates, puppies nip and bite as they play. So this behavior is rather ingrained in them. So, patience and commitment are extremely important through this process. It covers everything from choosing and working with a breeder to training and socializing to dealing with all of that luxurious hair. If you love your Doodle, this book is a must-have. You will save you time, money, and loads of frustration…take my word for it! Get Your Copy Today! How Long Will It Last? All puppies bite. It begins when their baby teeth start coming in at around two or three weeks of age. It generally continues until they lose their baby teeth and start getting their adult teeth. For a timeline of expected puppy tooth loss, head over to our Labradoodle Brushing Guide. They wake up and start chasing, wrestling, and biting each other all over again. Unfortunately, this nipping and biting are not reserved just for their siblings and canine playmates. Biting During Teething The teething process goes for several months from the time the baby teeth come in until the final adult teeth are in. Chewing and biting on things, even our fingers, brings them relief from the teething pain. Some hard, some soft, and some even made from fabric. This pack bundle of toys did the trick when my first Labradoodle was gnawing on everything in sight. It includes a bunch of different soft rope toys, chew toys, balls, and a soft flying disc — all just the right size for puppy mouths and perfect for satisfying irritated gums. No products found. Giving them a good selection to choose from will help keep them from chewing on things like pillows and chair legs. Another tip is to stuff a Puppy Kong find them on Amazon with peanut butter and toss it in the freezer for a few hours before giving it to your puppy. The cold will help numb the gums, the rubber is durable and safe for chewing, and most pups absolutely adore them. The uninjured puppy associates the end of playtime with the pain and squealing from its sibling. Knowing how to control the intensity or strength of their bite is known as bite inhibition. You can teach your puppy bite inhibition. Techniques There are a few different ways to stop your puppy from nipping and biting. Keep on doing this until the puppy stops biting. As soon as the pup stops biting and nipping, praise him and give him a treat. Another way to stop the biting is to put the puppy down and walk away. Puppies love attention and they love playing. If playtime ends as soon as they begin biting, they will eventually get the point. One thing worth considering is that puppies always seem to be hungry. They might just like the taste of your fingers and toes. It can become excessive if it seems like all the puppy wants to do is bite and nip. This behavior must be corrected before the puppy becomes a big dog. Even the sound of their little growls has an appeal that makes us laugh. Prolonged and fierce growling. Aggression that comes for a specific situation. Let him know that playtime or attention time is over when he bites. As soon as he starts biting, give him the toy or chew. Gently and calmly place your puppy in their crate. Discourage friends and family from roughhousing with the puppy in ways that will encourage him to bite. Puppy biting is just one of the many issues we address in our Labradoodle Guidebook. Because these are such wonderful dogs, we believe that owners should have the correct information and advice in one place from the very beginning to avoid making common mistakes that could negatively affect their relationship with their dog. After all, you only get to raise your dog once. Related Questions: What about play biting? Is that OK? Play biting is still biting, and it could hurt a young child. Why does my puppy try to bite my hand when I pet his head? This is what young puppies do. You might want to distract him by feeding him treats from your other hand. Still have questions or concerns about your Labradoodle puppy? Check out all of our Labradoodle articles to find solutions to common problems and tons of other information about this delightful breed. Do Labradoodles bite? February 20, Labradoodles are one of the most popular crossbreeds on the planet. The answer is yes and no. All dogs bite when they are puppies, and Doodles are no exception. However, adult Labradoodles should not bite unless provoked. If they do, there could be a deeper issue at play. Table of Contents Types of biting Before we take a deeper look at biting and the breed, we should consider the different types of biting in dogs and what they mean. The four main types are puppy biting, play biting, defensive biting, and attack biting. Puppy biting All puppies bite when they are teething. Teething is a natural process that all infant mammals go through, in which their milk teeth fall out and their adult teeth grow in. During this process, their gums can feel very sore, and biting and chewing on things is the only way to relieve the pain, which is why your adorable pup may seem more like a crocodile at first! Particularly high-energy puppies may also nip you when they are excited. Play biting Play biting is a natural part of play for many dogs. Dogs play-bite with their human family members and with other dogs, and as long as your dog is well socialized, it is nothing to be afraid of. The only time when play biting may be an issue is with children, so parents must be sure to teach their kids how to play with their pets and to monitor play with small children. Play biting naturally decreases once Labradoodles calm down at around years of age. However, with the right training this behavior can be resolved much sooner than that. Defensive biting Defensive biting is exactly what it sounds like — biting out of self-defense, or in defense of somebody else, whether it be a person, another dog, or even their home. A dog that is feeling defensive may lower their head or widen their gait, fix their gaze, pin back or point their ears, and hide or point their tail, as well as tremble, whine, bark, or snarl. This type of biting is usually quick and fairly minimal, and in most US states, owners are not liable for resulting injuries when a dog bites out of self-defense or provocation. For example, to small children cornering their family pets or to the vets giving them their shots. Attack biting Attack biting is when a dog bites somebody, or another dog, seemingly without provocation. This is, of course, the worst kind of biting. No dog should ever bite without provocation, but it does sometimes happen. Attack biting also occurs in some breeds more than others, most often in dogs with a genetic history of guard work and dogfighting. The bitey-ness will wind down gradually and you can train them to stop biting you and chewing your home to pieces in the meantime. Puppies usually learn how hard to bite each other when they play with their siblings in their first few weeks of life. You can teach your puppy not to bite others by yelping like a puppy whenever they bite you and ending your interaction immediately. This way, they learn that biting causes the fun and affection to stop. It may take them a while for them to understand, as puppy empathy can take several months to develop, but you should start doing it as early as possible. If you stay patient and remain consistent, they will learn! Additionally, you should reward them a lot for appropriate interactions. Use training treats to show your Labradoodle puppy that sitting politely pays off way more than nipping! As for chewing, you will never stop your dog from chewing as it is natural, normal, and good for them! There are even chew toys that are designed specifically for teething pups, with rubber teeth that massage and soothe their gums. Frozen carrots are also great treats for teething pups, as the cold will relieve their gums. Or, you could try filling a pup-sized Kong toy with something tasty and freezing it overnight for another yummy, soothing treat. Do adult Labradoodles bite? Labradoodles are known for being a friendly breed, this is part of what makes them such a popular choice for dog owners around the world. Can Labradoodles be dangerous? It is not recorded how many dog bites are caused by Labradoodles every year, or how many violent dog fights involve Doodles. However, this is a good thing. How to approach a nervous Doodle? If you come across a nervous Labradoodle, you should remain at a distance, stay calm, and try to make yourself appear smaller by crouching down to their level. Offer a treat or toy if you have one, and if they come to you and let you pet them, keep your hand where they can see it until they are comfortable with you. If they react aggressively at any point, just calmly back away. Can anxiety make Labradoodles bite? Extreme anxiety can cause Labradoodles to bite. According to the Merck Veterinary Manual , canine anxiety is most commonly caused by fears, separation, and old age. Fear-based anxiety is the type that is most likely to cause unprovoked biting, as it can cause dogs to become jumpy, making them snap out of panic, rather than aggression. Common fears amongst dogs include loud noises and cars, and they are usually born out of bad past experiences. An anxious dog may engage in repetitive behaviors such as pacing and lip licking. Triggers can be treated with positive association training and anti-anxiety aids like supplements, diffusers, and thunder vests. Some dogs also have an intense dislike of being groomed and bathed. If your Labradoodle is biting e. Can boredom make Labradoodles bite? Extreme boredom can make dogs bite. It can also make them engage in destructive behaviors such as ripping up furniture and going to the toilet indoors. If a dog is not receiving enough physical or mental stimulation, their pent-up energy and frustration can result in aggression, often towards other dogs, but sometimes towards people, too. Labradoodles have the social nature of the Labrador with the intelligence of the Poodle, so they need a lot of love, interaction, and mental stimulation. To prevent and tackle boredom, make sure your Doodle is getting two hours of exercise a day, preferably split into two walks, as well as lots of play and companionship. Vary their walk location to keep it interesting and switch it up with some running, games of fetch, and swimming from time to time if possible. Play some fun, challenging games like hide and seek at home, teach them new things to engage their brains, and invest in some stimulating toys like puzzles and treat dispensers. Can illness make Labradoodles bite? These illnesses can include sight or hearing loss, canine cognitive dysfunction, brain tumors, hypothyroidism, psychomotor epilepsy, hyperkinesis, and neoplasia. Painful injuries can also cause dogs to snap should somebody touch the area, but this is not done out of malice. Because Labradoodles are not AKC-registered , there are no guidelines for health testing in this breed. Sadly, some breeders do not make sure that the parents are free of hereditary diseases. Some puppies are born predisposed to develop illnesses later on — some of which can make them aggressive, too. If your dog bites unnecessarily and it is completely out of character, especially if they are older or you notice any other physical or behavioral changes, you should take them to see their vet for an examination right away. What if my Labradoodle bites someone? If your Doodle bites someone that is posing a threat to you, your dog, or somebody else, you should get away from them immediately and inform the police if necessary. In most US states, owners are not liable for resulting injuries when a dog bites out of self-defense or provocation. If the bite was unprovoked, you should separate the person from your dog and make sure that they get the medical help they need. As for your dog, you should inform your vet of what has happened. Legal repercussions and enforced euthanasia for biting are possible in extreme situations. Our website cannot provide legal advice on bite cases. What if my Labradoodle bites another dog? If your Doodle gets into a fight with another dog, you should separate the two dogs immediately. If your dog hurts the other dog significantly, you should offer to pay for their veterinary treatment, unless their dog was very clearly the aggressor and your dog was defending themselves. Owners of dogs that get attacked by other dogs are legally within their rights to report you to the police if they feel that your dog is dangerous. Legal repercussions and enforced euthanasia are rare, but if your dog is a danger to other dogs, you should take precautions to prevent them from attacking another dog in the future, such as training, keeping them on the leash, and muzzle wearing. The bottom line Although any dog can bite if provoked, Labradoodles, in general, are not aggressive or dangerous dogs. In fact, they are known to be a perfect family dog that is great with children and other pets. However, you should still make sure that you fully train and socialize your dog to ensure good behavior. Unleash the real potential of your companion! We will email you daily with training tips, ideas and videos. This is an introductory course into our training philosophy. You will get customized video lessons based on your training goals — and you can implement them in just 5 minutes a day.

We have the tremendous opportunity to raise these little mini goldendoodle nuggets of joy for Sacramento, California. These mini goldendoodles have the deep wiring to find joy in almost anything. Familiar person; joy. New person; joy. New toy; joy. Sunny day; great. Rainy day; awesome chance to play in the mud. They have been intentionally bred to make beautiful companions for families, so that they can flourish and enjoy great health in Sacramento. We also know that these joyful mini Goldendoodle puppies - and adults - raise the joy of the people who meet them. These beautiful mini Goldendoodles end up becoming a dear part of the family unit, and get their own particular piece of our hearts. We do not take this lightly. As a breeder, all of these different clubs, groups, and programs are aimed at raising as much joy as possible in our mini Goldendoodles for Sacramento. Happy and Healthy Sacramento Mini Goldendoodles We know that there is much more to breeding healthy, confident, flourishing mini Goldendoodles than just getting a dam and sire together at the right time. These organizations serve as a source of accountability for us, in order to help us breed for mini-goldendoodle puppies with the puppies health in mind. So our mini goldendoodle parents must pass hip, elbow, patella, cardiac, eye, and genetic screening in order to be a part of High Desert Family Doodles. Our mini Goldendoodle parents - Brownie and Rosie - have passed their health-testing and are ready for a litter of puppies in the next couple months. These puppies will be in the pound range, and we will have a variety of coat colors and textures in the litter. Your mini Goldendoodle puppy would be a day trip away, if you wanted to drive up to pick them up. We can meet you at the airport with your mini goldendoodle puppy so that you can just enjoy the brief flight north to Oregon. We look forward to our joyful mini Goldendoodle puppies joining you in Sacramento, California. From that point, we begin to integrate different exercises and exposures that help the mini goldendoodle puppies with overcoming fear responses to become both brave and confident. We give them practical problems to solve - such as navigating obstacles in order to get to their meals - in order to nurture problem solving and trouble-shooting. Mini Goldendoodles come from the hybridization of two intelligent breeds- poodles and golden retrievers - which tends to lead to a highly intelligent puppy. Our hope and desire is to encourage this intelligence as much as possible, and to to teach the mini Goldendoodle puppies that the world - especially Sacramento California - is a trust-worthy place that is safe. In the final weeks we have these mini Goldendoodle puppies, we begin to work with crate exposure, and potty training. We help them begin to understand that their crates are safe places for them as well. They begin to quickly pick up on potty training. The mini Goldendoodle puppies also get a large amount of early socialization with different people in order to help them trust the wide array of humans. Hat: yep. Beards; oh yeah. Tall people; indeed. Kids; all the way. We do all this stuff so that these mini Goldendoodle puppies can handle all the Sacramento California has to offer. Our mini Goldendoodle puppies go home when they are 8 weeks old. The next month is an important window for you to continue to work on exposure with new situations and people to help them continue to grow confident and brave in Sacramento, California. Our breeding dogs undergo thorough testing and selection to ensure they are healthy and happy, and suitable for their new homes. As a top-tier breeder, we pride ourselves on providing the best care possible for all our dogs. They all live inside our homes with loving caregivers who ensure their well-being and happiness. Our puppies are also born and raised in our homes, where they receive plenty of socialization and interaction with the world around them in a safe and nurturing environment. They are usually bred to be companion, therapy, guide, and other types of assistance dogs. A Goldendoodle is a crossbreed dog that is a mix of a Golden Retriever and a Poodle. Goldendoodles are known for their friendly and affectionate personalities, as well as their hypoallergenic coats, which make them a popular choice for families with allergies. They come in a variety of sizes, depending on the size of the Poodle parent used in the crossbreeding process. Goldendoodles require regular grooming to maintain their curly, non-shedding coats, and they also need daily exercise and socialization to stay healthy and happy. Goldendoodles are known for being highly intelligent and easy to train, making them a popular choice for therapy and service dogs. Goldendoodles can come in a variety of colors, including cream, gold, red, chocolate, and black. They are often considered to be hypoallergenic, as they inherit this trait from their Poodle parent. Goldendoodles are social animals that thrive on human interaction and attention. They require regular grooming to maintain their curly, non-shedding coats. Goldendoodles are active dogs that enjoy outdoor activities such as hiking and swimming. They are known for their love of play and can be quite silly and entertaining. Goldendoodles have become increasingly popular in recent years, as more people discover the many wonderful qualities of this unique crossbreed. Goldendoodles are considered a designer breed and are known to be intelligent and extremely agile. They also can weigh to be about pounds. Goldendoodles are perfect family dogs. They are known to be friendly, energetic, trainable, and sociable. Around children and babies, they are extremely even-tempered. They are just as friendly and playful indoors as they are outdoors, great for going on walks and hikes. Training Goldendoodles Goldendoodles are extremely smart and easy to train. The best way to train them is through positive reinforcement- since they are always willing to learn. Bring home a new addition to your family Bring home a new addition to your family Goldendoodles are a wonderful choice for families as they are a crossbreed of two of the smartest dog breeds, Golden Retrievers and Poodles. They are highly trainable, intelligent, and well-suited for families. They are affectionate, playful, and loyal, making them easy to care for and love. Additionally, Goldendoodles are hypoallergenic, making them a great option for people with allergies. They are created by breeding a purebred Golden Retriever with a purebred Poodle. The new Goldendoodle mix is a friendly, intelligent, and affectionate dog. F1B Goldendoodles are created by breeding a first-generation Goldendoodle with a purebred Poodle. Because F1B Goldendoodles have a higher percentage of Poodle genetics, they are often even more hypoallergenic and non-shedding than first-generation Goldendoodles. They also tend to have more predictable traits and can exhibit more of the desirable characteristics of Poodles, such as intelligence, trainability, and affectionate personalities. F1B Goldendoodles are popular pets for families, especially those with allergies or who are looking for a low-shedding dog. They are typically friendly, affectionate, and intelligent, and require regular grooming and exercise to keep them healthy and happy. Physical Characteristics of Goldendoodles Goldendoodles can have a range of physical characteristics, as their appearance can vary depending on factors such as the size and coat type of the Poodle parent and the Golden Retriever parent. However, here are some common physical characteristics of Goldendoodles: Goldendoodles Color: Most Goldendoodles are white, cream, chocolate or black, although other colors are also possible. Goldendoodles Coat Goldendoodles coat are usually wavy like mostly Golden retriever coat with a little mixture of poodles curls or completely curly more like the poodle coat. Goldendoodles Size and weight Most Goldendoodles size upon reaching adulthood will either be the mini size Goldendoodle that will weigh around lbs or the medium size that will weigh around lbs or standard size that will weigh around lbs. Goldendoodles Height The male Goldendoodles height at the shoulder is generally inches higher than its corresponding female type. Goldendoodles Facial features Goldendoodles tend to have a soft and friendly expression, with round eyes and floppy ears. Bring home a new addition to your family. Questions about Goldendoodle puppies for sale in Sacramento CA? We have answers. What is an overview of Goldendoodle puppies for sale in Sacramento CA. Goldendoodles are the adorable combination of Poodles and Golden Retrievers. These dogs are popular across the country because they are adorable, fun-loving and people friendly! The aim of the breed is to create the ultimate companion dog who loves to spend time with their owner and all of their friends. Goldendoodles do well in crowds but are also smart enough to entertain themselves if need be. How does Uptown Puppies work? In order to begin the process all you have to do is show your interest in a specific Sacramento Goldendoodle for sale or one of the pre-screened breeders below! Tired of ending up on Google with fraudulent puppy businesses? The greatest part about working with Uptown Puppies to find your next Goldendoodle is working with some of the top-rated ethical breeders that have been pre-screened by our team. Which kinds of breeds are best for families? Goldendoodles for sale in Sacramento are known for their amazing personalities and how great they get along with strangers at parties or even with relatives at family reunions. If you take your Goldendoodle to a dog park there is no doubt that your puppy is going to want to run up to other dogs and their owners to introduce themselves. If finding a one of a kind purebred or purpose-bred designer Goldendoodle is extremely important to you then you may not want to be looking at shelters. As dog people we completely understand the good that shelters do and appreciate dog owners who choose to give a pup a second chance. Check out some of the top-rated breeders below! It is possible to avoid puppy mills online but it can be extremely hard! Simply from looking at a website with Sacramento Goldendoodle puppies for sale it can be almost impossible to pick out the puppy mill from a list of reputable, trustworthy breeding businesses. Can I find a cheap Goldendoodle for sale in Sacramento through Uptown? We understand that cheap can often translate to important corners being cut. Rather, they offer a boutique experience that involves exceptional breeding standards, puppy transportation and a complete screening process. Reputable Goldendoodle breeders in Sacramento are difficult to locate which is why you should definitely take a look at some of the top-rated businesses below! Every single puppy business in our network is also experienced in making travel accommodations for desirable puppies and will go out of their way to secure your business. Do you sell the cheapest Goldendoodle puppies in Sacramento? Rather, they offer a boutique experience that involves exceptional breeding standards, puppy transportation, and being with you every step of the way from puppy placement until the moment your pup arrives. What can I expect when I bring home a new Goldendoodle puppy? Goldendoodles are clever, intelligent dogs who enjoy spending as much of their time with people as possible. They also make great family dogs because they love to play during the day and curl up at the foot of the bed at night.

Contact How to Potty Train an English Bulldog in 12 Simple Steps Apart from chewed furniture or scratched doors with a young or untrained English bulldog, coming back to a house that reeks of urine and feces can be utterly distressing. All dogs do not like soiling their usual eating and sleeping areas and are instinctively cleaner. Therefore they learn to not urinate and defecate in their crates which means it is not impossible to potty train them. How to potty train an English bulldog? Begin by designating a potty spot in the yard. Take the English Bulldog to the potty spot every hours to normalize this area for when it needs to potty. English bulldogs are strong-willed, so while they are trainable, it can take some time, persistence, and patience. But in the end, they will be potty training. Why does my English bulldog pee in his bed? Bedwetting is a common problem among dogs, and there is a solution to this. However, before figuring out the solution, it is essential to find out the possible reasons behind it. Dogs will try their best not to soil their sleeping areas. This comes from their wild instinct of keeping their den clean, and if something is going against that instinct, it could be behavioral, emotional, or medical. It is best to consult a veterinarian to rule out any illness behind this unusual behavior. There could be several reasons behind your English bulldog peeing in his bed. Urinary Tract Infection UTI Urinary tract infections are common in dogs and are caused by fungi, bacteria, or parasites in the urinary tract. Urinary infection can increase the frequency of urination, urgency, bloody urine, and improper urination in your dog. Bulldogs are susceptible to urinary tract infections more than other dog breeds. Female English bulldogs are more at risk of getting UTI than males, but male bulldogs can still get them. Your dog does not forget his house training, but the disease makes it quite difficult for your dog to stop the flow of urine when he wants to go. Hormone Responsive Urinary Incontinence Your English bulldog may pee in his bed while sleeping or relaxed. He may not be able to hold his urine that leaks out involuntarily. This is more common in middle-aged spayed female bulldogs. When a female bulldog is spayed, her ovaries are removed, resulting in a decrease in her estrogen production. With a decrease in estrogen, the sphincter becomes relaxed, making them leak urine. The problem gets worse with age. Your English bulldog could also be suffering from separation anxiety. If your dog is left alone at home for long hours, then he can grow extremely distressed and may start urinating and even defecating indoors. To know more about how to help a distressed bulldog read, Is My Bulldog Stressed? And How to Treat It! Territory Marking All dogs do urinary markings out of instinct. Some dogs, including English bulldogs, mark around the house to keep potential intruders at bay. Your dog may start marking inside the house and let out only small amounts of urine in strategic places. Your English bulldog may be insecure about his belongings and may start peeing at different spots in the house to keep others away from them. This usually happens after a new family member, a human, feline, or a canine, is brought to the house. But this is different from wetting their beds. How to Help your Bedwetting English Bulldog? Your English bulldog may feel insecure due to the arrival of a new family member, be it a human or another pet. If your English bulldog pees in bed due to some underlying emotional issue, then observe what happens before bedtime. Take time to note would could be causing this behavior. Many times, simple changes can resolve this issue but if professional help is needed, seek the advice of your vet. If peeing in bed occurs on a regular basis, then I would recommend getting a waterproof bed. A waterproof bed or bed cover will make it easier to clean up, especially if you are training a new pup. Even with a waterproof bed, continue to take your English bulldog outside to potty in the appropriate spot. Shower your dog with praise when it does potty outside. Another wonder help is to use an odor neutralizer on the spots your bulldog pees. This will discourage your English bulldog from peeing inside the house. Potty Training the English Bulldog The first thing to understand when potty training your English bulldog is that there is an immense need for repetition and consistency. An English bulldog should be potty trained when they are young to instill this habit early on. Adult bulldogs may also be given the training. Potty training, an English bulldog puppy, will need some hard work and so be prepared for it. The following tips can be helpful in potty-training your English bulldog. If the puppy has been used to pee pads or newspapers as was done by the breeder for a long time, then the training may be a bit tougher. Take away the newspaper so they are not available for use. Take your English bulldog puppy out every two to three hours for a potty break, especially after naps, meals, playtime, and before going to bed. Choose a safe spot for your puppy that is protected from all elements so that the potty breaks are comfortable. English bulldogs are perpetually hungry, and food motivation can work well with them. Reward your dog with healthy treats when it goes out to the designated spot outside to relieve itself and then comes back inside. As your English bulldog puppy starts growing up, you can increase the time between potty breaks as older dogs have better control over elimination. After the age of 6 months, your English bulldog can quickly go about 4 to 5 hours without needing to go out. English bulldogs are mainly indoor dogs, so they can also be trained to use a big dog litter box inside the house. Look out for signs such as your bulldog walking in circles, sniffing the ground. All these are telltale signs that your English bulldog wants to eliminate and should immediately be taken outside the house. Fix a particular area of your yard as the potty area for your bulldog and take your dog to this area only when you first go outside. Eventually, your bulldog will learn to his business at the same spot, making it easier for you to clean up after him. When your bulldog is finished relieving itself, be quick to reward. An English bulldog thrives off praise, gentle belly rubs, or a dog treat for a job well done. Create a specific place in the house for your English bulldog to potty. Always use positive reinforcements when potty training an English bulldog puppy or an adult dog. Scolding the dog can create fear and a lack of confidence. A dog that is uncomfortable is more likely to have an accident. English bulldog puppies are a powerhouse of energy that have not developed proper control over their bladders. These pups grow fast, eat more, burn calories quickly, and in turn need to eliminate more frequently than their adult English bulldog counterparts. For hard floors, laminate or tile, use absorbent cloth, paper towels, or a mop to absorb the pee. Then clean the surface to remove any lingering residue and smell. Use an enzyme neutralizer that can break down the protein-based molecules in urine that cause bad odors. You can use the same on soft surfaces like carpets and sofas. It is easier to clean on hard floors, but if your English bulldog pees on smooth surfaces like carpet, bed, or a sofa than cleaning can be an uphill task as these surfaces can absorb the pee. If this happens, immediately use napkins and towels to blot out as much pee as you can. Then sprinkle some water and put some drops of mild soap over the spot where your dog peed. Then use another towel to dilute the remaining amount of urine. Sometimes even after you have cleaned the pee, the stench can linger, so what should you do to eliminate them? Removing the odor is essential as your dog will think that the area is an acceptable place to relieve himself. One of the everyday household items that you can use to remove the odor is baking soda. Spread the baking soda all across the damp spot. Remember not to take too much of it. Allow the baking soda to sit overnight and then vacuum all the baking soda thoroughly several times until the area feels clean. Another method uses one more household item, and that is vinegar. Take a spray bottle and mix one cup of white vinegar with one cup of water and two teaspoons of baking soda. Mix the ingredients thoroughly by shaking them up. Then spray this mixture on the stain and allow it to sit for some time. Later blot the area with clean towels or napkins until clean. Vinegar neutralizes the smell of urine without fading the carpets and sofas and is excellent for cleaning and protecting them. English bulldogs are adorable but also have a stubborn streak in them. This can make it difficult to train , especially potty training. Praises and positive reinforcements through voice commands and treats can do the trick. Shouting or raising your voice can be disturbing to an English bulldog. Aggressive behavior from the owner can make the bulldog withdraw, setting back the training, and making him even more stubborn. Remember, positive training will lead to positive results! Post Views: 1, I have experienced this adorable overload personally working as a dog walker. My job to visit a Bulldog puppy each day for a potty break was a dream client. Are English Bulldogs easy to potty train? On average English Bulldogs can be easy to potty train when set up for success. Bulldogs are notoriously stubborn and can be hard to train at times. Teaching an English Bulldog to potty train will require consistency, patiences, and positive reinforcement. Successful potty training of any dog requires a number of factors to put your puppy in the best position to succeed. English Bulldogs are no different. Though they can be a little harder to train, potty training can be much easier if you follow a few simple techniques. In this post I have outlined some of the best tips for potty training an English Bulldog. I have used these techniques on both of my dogs and potty training was very easy. Using these same tips with your English Bulldog will ensure success and clean floors. As a general rule it will take as long as months to potty train an English Bulldog. Some dogs learn faster than others, but techniques in training will make all the difference. Being proactive, consistent, patient and positive you will shorten the time frame of your English Bulldogs potty training. Generally when a dog is able to go several weeks in a row without an accident in the house I consider them to be potty trained. Though some English Bulldogs can be potty trained by the age of 4 months, a more common timeline is closer to 6 months. The success of your English Bulldogs potty training will depend primarily on you as the owner. Follow the tips in the sections below and your potty training will be over sooner rather than later. On average English Bulldogs puppies can hold their bladder between hours depending on their age. The general rule is 1 hour per month of age. Adult English Bulldogs can hold their bladder for hours or longer, but it is best to get them out to relieve themselves every 5 hours. Variables such as activity level, amount of water consumed, and the age of the dog will all contribute to these timelines. Senior English Bulldogs may develop weaker bladders as they grow old. Adult Bulldogs may need more frequent potty breaks if they are well hydrated and very active. Each dog will be different to varying degrees. Pay attention to some of the warning signs of an English Bulldog that needs to potty, and be aware of how much water they have consumed since their last potty break. There are several techniques used to successfully potty training an English Bulldog. Being proactive, consistent, positive, and patient are all important components to set your dog up for success. By controlling your puppies environment and setting them up for success potty training can be done easily. Below are 12 of the best tips and techniques you can use to successfully, and hopefully easily, potty train your English Bulldog. By following each of these tips you will reduce accidents, create a positive learning environment, and increase your puppies chance of early success. Be Proactive With Training One of the most important tips for potty training your English Bulldog puppy is being proactive. There is a reason I put this up as the first tip. Being proactive will give your dog the best chances of potty training success. This means taking them out before they have a chance to go in the house. Take your English Bulldog puppy outside to potty when they: Wake up in the morning Finishing eating or drinking Wake up from a nap Have not been out in 2 hours Before they go to bed at night. By following these simple guides you will reduce the amount of accidents in the house by a significant degree. Yes it will feel like you are going outside more than you are inside some days. That is part of the potty training deal. Literally making 10 trips a day outside was the norm, and at times exhausting. But you know what happened? Be proactive. It works! Establish A Potty Routine Puppies know very little when it comes to basic commands and training in general. One thing puppies do understand very well is a routine. Dogs are creatures of habit, and puppies are no exception. English Bulldog puppies will understand a routine far sooner than they will understand much of anything else. That is why it is important to set up a routine that your puppy can count on. When your puppy knows that they will be going outside first thing in the morning, or right after dinner time, they are more likely to hold their bladder. When a puppy has no routine they will not know the next time a potty break is coming and relieve themselves whenever, and wherever they please. Make routine a key component of your potty training and your puppy will learn to hold their bladder instead slightly longer in anticipation of an outside break. Following a routine one week and not the next week can undo a lot of training progress. Stay consistent with routines, rewards, and places you take your dog to potty. Limiting the area your puppy has access to in the home can reduce where accidents might happen and allow for you to keep a closer eye on their activities. Allowing a puppy to have free roaming access to the entire home will lead to hidden accidents. You might not see your puppy pee behind the couch in the other room. This may create a new spot where your puppy will go to relieve themselves in the future without you having a chance to properly clean up. Baby gates are a great way to limit access to rooms in the home. Attaching a leash to your waist to keep your puppy nearby at all times is also a good option. Controlling the space your puppy can access will make a big difference. I will typically let my puppy have a drink hours before bedtime and then remove it for the night. This will ensure that your puppy has an empty bladder after their pre-bedtime potty break and can make it through most, if not all of the night. Not removing their access to water can lead to mid night accidents or very early morning potty runs. The crate is one of the most effective potty training tools you can use. Dogs will avoid relieving themselves in places they sleep and eat. By providing your English Bulldog puppy with a small, yet comfortable place to sleep and relax, you are preventing accidents from happening when you are asleep or out of the home. Crates should be large enough for your puppy to easily stand and turn around inside. Not too big that they can go to a corner and relieve themselves however. The crate will allow you to leave your puppy for short periods of time without worry of accidents. It also allows the puppy to learn to control their bladder. Once you do return home or wake up in the morning, get your puppy straight outside from their crate for a potty break. This is very important and goes back to being proactive, routine based, and consistent. I personally would recommend the iCrate from Midwest Homes. This is the exact crate I use for my puppy and it is amazing. The iCrate comes with an adjustable panel that has allowed me to gradually increase the space my puppy has access to as he has grown. Instead of buying a new crate every other month, I just adjust the size. By showing your English Bulldog puppy where and what to do their business on you begin to create an association. Grass areas are the preferred spots to do this sort of training. The smell and texture of the grass is much different than anything in your home. After some consistency in this practice your Bulldog puppy will automatically identify grass as the place where they can relieve themselves. Use Potty Pad Alternatives Potty pads can be a way to minimize clean up in the home as well as designate a spot where your puppy goes potty. There are however much better alternatives. Potty pads are not a natural surface that your dog will find outside. As mentioned above, associating a spot like grass will create a connection for your dog. Potty pads can prolong potty training progress and be hard to wean off. Once you start removing potty pads your dog will just continue to go on the floor of the house. Alternatives like the Doggies Lawn are far better to create the association we are looking for. As well as a more natural way to train. Naturally covers up the smells, earth friendly, and lasts for weeks, unlike one time use puppy pads. This product is such a brilliant idea. This will not only teach your puppy that grass is the spot to potty, but is just so much nicer to have in your home or on your balcony compared to those stinky, ugly, and sometimes messy potty pads. Check out Doggie Lawn as a great potty pad alternative. Each and every time your puppy successfully goes potty outside you make them feel like a champion. Shower them in praise and some of their favorite treats. Show your dog that what they did is highly desired behavior. English Bulldogs are eager to please their family members. This constant and consistent positive reinforcement will teach them quickly what you are trying to accomplish. My puppy is 5 months old and accident free for a couple weeks now. I still make a huge deal of his success. Never stop while they are in training. Never Punish Accidents There are some old school opinions out there when it comes to punishing potty training failures. These techniques do not work and should be avoided completely. Not only does your dog not understand why they are being yelled at, hit, or man handled, you are creating a sense of fear. This can lead to behavioral problems down the road. Developing this fear based reaction can lead to stress, anxiety and even aggression issues. Never punish your English Bulldog puppy when they have an accident. Simply ignore them for a bit when they do. Clean up the mess, and move on. You have a chance for success in just a few hours. The only party responsible for accidents in the home is you. Try again and remain calm. Know The Potty Time Warning Signs Even when your dog is on a great routine, you are being proactive, and consistent, they will need to potty out of the blue. Knowing the warning signs of an incoming accident are important to spot and interrupt as soon as possible. One of the major signs your dog is about to relieve themselves is sniffing around an area and turning in circles. This means they are looking for a spot to potty. Immediately interrupt this behavior by distracting them or even picking them up and getting them outside. Establishing ways for your English Bulldog to alert you they need to go outside is not only a neat trick, but an effective potty training method. Things like bells at the door where you go out for breaks are great. You can teach your dog that anytime they touch and ring the bell you will get them outside. This may take a few days to teach, but once you have that line of communication open it is amazing. When potty training my Staffy she would alert me by sitting at the door and staring at the door knob. This was before I had considered bells, but it was just as effective in letting me know she needs outside. Sure your dog might abuse this just to go for a trot outside, but I would rather that than an accident inside. Remain Patient With Potty Training Patiences is going to be your greatest asset in the potty training months. It can be so easy to get frustrated and tired. Puppies are a lot of work and sometimes it seems like they never stop pooping and peeing. But remain calm, and stay patient. Losing your cool will not help your training. It can in fact hurt your progress and create a distrust or fear in your dog when you lash out. I have had to take several deep breaths many times over the past couple months potty training my puppy. Just when you think things are getting close to complete, an accident occurs. I get more upset with myself about not preventing the accident, but I have to remember this is a process and takes time. Go easy on yourself and your dog. With time and all of the tips I have listed above you will have success. These are some of the most grueling days of training, but they will pass. There are several reasons why your Bulldog keeps peeing in the house. Another factor could be health related. Things like urinary tract infections can cause frequent urination problems. If your Bulldog is peeing in the house and you are following all of the tips I have gone over in this post it may be time to visit a professional. A vet can rule out any potential infections or diseases that may be leading to constant accidents in the home. A professional dog trainer may be another option if your Bulldog is perfectly healthy. Find a highly reputable trainer in your area that has a positive reinforcement approach and plenty of positive reviews. Final Thoughts Potty training an English Bulldog can be as hard or as easy as you make it. The responsibility of successful potty training lies with you, the owner. Making the effort to set your English Bulldog puppy up for success and remaining patient with the process will lead to quicker training. Follow these tips I have outlined and see for yourself how well they can work. Even the most stubborn of English Bulldogs can pick up and follow these techniques. I have used these very tips for both of my dogs and potty training was remarkably easy. Bookmark this article. Share it to your social media. Print it out and keep it on the fridge. I promise by following what I have shared you are that much closer to potty training victory with your English Bulldog puppy. Plenty of wipes and toilet tissue 1. Build a potty-training routine When you first start house training your English Bulldog puppy, you should aim to build a routine around their toileting needs. Luckily, their bladders and bowels are fairly predictable, as they are determined by not only their sleeping pattern, but also what they eat and drink. You should always take your puppy out to the toilet first thing as soon as they wake up — and this goes for whenever they wake up from naps too! As well as taking them out first thing in the morning, you should also take them out last thing at night or before you are going to leave them alone for an extended period of time: this is to prevent any accidents overnight or whilst you are gone! On top of this, you should also aim to take your puppy out to the toilet every thirty minutes to an hour. We actually started up a diary of what our puppy had eaten and and how often and what times he tended to urinate and defecate. Take your English Bulldog outside as soon as you see any signs that they need a pee or poop. All puppies have immature diet systems, which means that each meal tends to stimulate their digestive system faster than it would in adult dogs. Generally, puppies need to urinate within fifteen minutes of eating and defecate within half an hour of eating. Once your dog has finished eating, take away the food bowl until the next scheduled mealtime. This will prevent your puppy from overindulging. Handy Hint: If you need more guidance on how much to feed your English Bully, please click here where I explain how many cups of food is enough for them , plus a feeding chart. You should also ensure that the food you give your puppy is of the higher possible quality — this means avoiding dog food with artificial colours and preservatives and ensuring that real meat is the primary ingredient. Confinement and consistency When your English Bulldog puppy is in the early stages of potty training, it is good to confine to a small area such as a room, a crate or via a lead until you are confident that they can roam the house freely without accidents. Furthermore, consistency goes hand-in-hand with confinement, and it involves introducing your dogs to select areas to toilet in so that, over time, they will learn to associate going to the toilet with that area of the house or outside. A good way to ease your dog into this component of toilet training is via puppy pad training or crate training. Essentially, the purpose of the puppy pad is not only to reduce mess, but also to get your puppy used to the idea of doing their business in an approved, select area indoors an area that is easy to clean up! Overtime, your puppy will learn to associate the pad itself with areas where it is okay to toilet, and at this stage it is good to move the mad outside to help them adapt. You can buy puppy pads on Amazon. Here are the ones we used which also have very good Amazon reviews. Crate training Crates are an effective and approved way of toilet training your English Bulldog puppy at the beginning. It helps to avoid mess, helps you keep a closer eye for signs he needs to go and, most crucially, teaches him to hold it until he is let outside to toilet. Make sure the crate is large enough for the puppy to stand, turn around and lie down but not large enough for them to defecate and urinate in. You can find a suitably-sized crate on Amazon which work well with the English Bulldog breed. Learn to pick up on the signs To avoid accidents in the home, it is good to learn to recognise signs that your English Bulldog needs the toilet. Commons signs include: Sniffing the floor. Looking restless and anxious. Going into an area they have previously toileted in. If your puppy shows any of these signs, take them out to your chosen toileting spot immediately. However, if accidents do happen, it is best to stay calm and not get angry at your puppy, as this will just make them fearful and cause them stress, which will actually result in more random accidents. Use a phrase they will learn to understand One of the most important aspects that goes a long with in potty training your English Bulldog puppy to use a phrase they learn to identify with. By doing so, he would learn to identify the phrase and location with the action. Reward the puppy for a good job When your English Bulldog puppy has finished his pee or poop in the right place, you should give them a reward or positive reinforcement with praise. By rewarding good behavior you will start a pattern of success which can lead to far faster house breaking and training. Never scold them Accidents are going to happen a lot, and whilst this can be frustrating, never shout or scold the puppy. I remember countless times where I would have just cleaned a pee up from the kitchen floor, only for our puppy to crouch and pee again just seconds later. When should I start potty training my English Bulldog puppy? It is generally recommended to start house training your English Bulldog puppy once they are between 12 weeks and 16 weeks old. This is a good age to start because whilst it means that your puppy is still young enough to learn life-long skills and have their behavior moulded, at this stage your puppy should have enough control over their bladder and bowels to hold it when necessary — making the potty training process easier for them, and cleaner for you! How long does it take to potty train an English Bulldog puppy? There are other factors which come into play though, such as individual temperament and environmental factors. Be prepared for accidents, but above all, have some wipes and tissue paper on hand all the time as you will get through a lot of this stuff! Once you have potty and house trained your English Bulldog puppy he will only ever do his business outside. Conclusion Now you know how we advise you housebreak and English Bulldog puppy, I would love to know how you got on. Get in touch via social media and leave a comment. Similarly, if you have better ideas on how to potty train an English Bulldog puppy, please share those in the community too. The bottom line is this; do not underestimate to the work that goes into taking care of a new puppy. Toilet training your puppy might feel a bit difficult at times, but with the right attitude, attentiveness and patience, they will learn this life-long skill. However, if you have any concerns about their ability to toilet train, always contact a vet or a professional trainer. As unlikely as this is, there are some English Bulldogs who will need expert help. You might also like…. Contact Us How to house train a English bulldog puppy the right way The easiest way to go about house training your new bulldog puppy is by utilizing a crate. Dogs are and always have been den and pack animals, they naturally and instinctively prefer the shelter of a den. Therefore most dogs will not urinate or defecate in their crate, which is why it is such an invaluable tool for housebreaking. The first thing to understand, though, is the need for repetition and consistency. Begin by purchasing the appropriate size crate. Think den not condo! It should be small with just enough room for your bulldog to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably. It is not an exercise pen. The use of too large a crate will encourage your bulldog puppy to use a small portion of it for a bed and the rest of it as a place to potty. We use the Midwest Life Stages crates. Leave the crate door open and allow your bulldog puppy to come and go as he pleases. Keep his favorite treats handy that you only use for the crate. It gives the puppy a nice reason to go in and creates a positive experience. At mealtimes, feed your bulldog in the crate with the door closed. At night, just before bedtime take your bulldog puppy out to potty. Put your puppy in his crate and shut the door. For the first 3 nights set your alarm for 3 hours. Set him down and wait. When he goes potty, praise him and put him back in his crate. Set your alarm for 3 more hours and repeat. After three days, if it has been successful and there have been no accidents, move to 4-hour intervals. After three more nights, you have hopefully taught your puppy that you will be there to take him outside when he has to go. If there have been no accidents you can then start going to bed and waiting until your puppy wakes you up to potty. It is important to respond and take him out immediately if he wakes during the night. In the morning, as soon as you wake up, immediately take your puppy out. By house time, I mean freedom to move about but always in the same room as you so that you can keep a constant eye on him. We use baby gates to block off access to other rooms. During the day repeat the above process and continue to take the puppy out every hour. If he does not do his business put him back in his crate and try again in 15 minutes. NEVER let a bulldog puppy in training out of your site. Use the crate as you would a playpen for a human child. Even if you leave the room for a minute, either take the puppy with you or put him in the crate. If you turn your back for 60 seconds and your puppy has an accident, then you messed up and made a mistake and have missed the opportunity to make a correction and teach the puppy. Do not rub his nose in it and do not use any physical correction! When he goes outside give him lots of praise. Use an odor neutralizer. When an accident occurs it is important to completely remove the odor, otherwise your puppy will gravitate back to the area to relieve himself again. You can buy the neutralizers from most any pet store. Do not use household cleaners, most contain ammonia which will attract him back to the same spot. A Few Tips to Help You Succeed Puppies will need to go potty first thing in the morning, after every meal, as soon as they wake up from naps and just before bedtime. A few hours before bedtime take up his water, this will help buy you a litter more time between potty breaks at night. If you see him smelling a particular spot or circling around, pick him up and take him outside. Keep your puppy on a regular feeding schedule and take away his food between meals. Puppies may not initially like the crate. Some will cry, whine, bark and drive you crazy the first couple of days. Doing so will teach your puppy that if he barks or whines long enough he will get rewarded and this will only encourage the behavior. Training an English bulldog puppy takes time, consistency and patience. Dogs function best with structure, routine, and clear expectations. Share this post. Buy Now on Amazon If you click this link and make a purchase, we earn a commission at no additional cost to you. If you have access to a backyard, pick out an area where you can take them. Always encourage them and support them when you house train; using passive-aggressive tactics on a dog can create fear and insecurities. What cues will puppies give that they have to go potty? Some begin to sniff the floor. A few spin around in a circle. Some whine, fidget or head for the corner or door in the room. Once you discover the signs or cues your puppy gives, the easier it will be to get him outside at the right time for a potty break. The crate should be large enough for the puppy to turn around in and lay comfortably but not large enough that they can eliminate. If your pup does eliminate itself in the crate, it may be too large. If you start with a larger dog crate, section it off. While potty training, I would simultaneously be crate training. If I were in the immediate vicinity of the puppy and able to be vigilant in watching him, he would be outside the crate. I would also crate train a puppy to sleep in the crate. As they grew and matured, they would go in and out of their crate at their will. Because dogs do not like to relieve themselves in their sleeping area, this made potty training very easy. For one, puppies have small bladders and cannot hold their urine for long, and two; it would be cruel to do so as puppies need socialization. When you bring the puppy out of his crate, take him immediately outside to relieve himself. Once he does, be sure to pour on the praise and positive reinforcement. Take the puppy outside for potty breaks every 2 hours. This has been the method I have used over the years and has been very effective. Start with picking out an area where you want your pup to relieve themselves. Make it a habit to take them to that area to potty every 2 — 3 hours to normalize this. If your English bulldog constantly pees in their bed before getting to the solution, we need to find out the reason behind it. For the most part, your bulldog will try not to pee in their bed. A few more common reasons are urinary tract infection, hormones, emotional issues, and marking territory, which is different from potty training. A UTI in an English bulldog will lead to constant urination, urgency, blood within the urine, and improper urination. Bulldogs are more vulnerable to a UTI than most other dog breeds. The female bulldog is even more at risk than its male counterpart, even though the male can still get them. Your bulldog might be fully house trained, but having a UTI makes it hard for your dog not to urinate when the urge is there, and potty accidents can occur. Hormone Responsive Urinary Incontinence Your bulldog might pee the bed while asleep or just relaxing. This happens more with middle-aged spayed female bulldogs. Getting your female bulldog spayed means her ovaries are removed, bringing down her estrogen production levels. Low estrogen levels make it difficult for your bulldog to control the muscle that allows them to hold its urine. Over time this becomes more prevalent with age. Emotional Issues If you notice your bulldog acting out of the ordinary, they could be experiencing stress, worry, or even anxiety. Even fear, if they are afraid of something or someone at home, they might decide to stay in their bed and not leave to go potty. Some things can make your bulldog insecure; this could be a new family member or another pet. Separation anxiety is another emotion they might be experiencing. If left at home alone for long periods of time, they can become distressed and begin to urinate and leave feces within your home. But if not, a vet visit to rule out medical problems or a consultation with a certified dog trainer might be in order. English bulldogs mark their spot around the house to keep outsiders away. Usually, they start doing this when someone other than the dog owner is brought into the home, maybe a new roommate or guest. This can also happen when a new puppy or adult dog is brought into the home. But be aware that this is not the same as your bulldog wetting the bed. Hardwood Floors and Tile If you have hard floors or tiles, use a strong absorbent cloth, paper towels, or a mop to absorb the urine. You can then clean the surface to remove any lingering smell. Carpet and Furniture Carpet and furniture can absorb the urine once it hits the surface. Once you notice this happening, get some paper towels to absorb what you can from the surface, then spray some water and a few drops of soap over the urine spot. Then get another set of paper towels or napkins to get the rest of the urine you can out. Be sure to spot-check first. Odor After cleaning up after your bulldog, you might still have the smell lingering. You want to remove the odor, or your bulldog will think the area is appropriate to potty again. Baking soda is a helpful product; just spread the baking soda over the area where the urine was located. Let it rest overnight, and then use a vacuum to get the baking soda out. A final tactic you can try is vinegar. If you mix vinegar with some baking soda and put it over where the urine was located, the mixture can neutralize the smell without fading the surface of the carpet or sofa. This is helpful in cleaning and maintaining your furniture. Again, remember to spot-check. You can also find products for this in pet stores or online. Popular Posts.

Lab puppies are energetic little learners eager to run, swim, and fetch. Although active, they also tend to overeat and gulp down their food. They can benefit from the right growth formula to provide immune system support, healthy growth, weight management, and digestive care as they take on puppyhood. Royal Canin Labrador Retriever dry puppy food is tailor-made nutrition created just for your pure breed puppy. Whether you have a Yellow Lab, Chocolate Lab, or Black Lab, this exclusive breed-specific diet is uniquely formulated for your Labrador Retriever puppy with specific nutrients to help them thrive. The unique donut-shaped kibble is specially designed to help your fast eater slow down and actually chew. An exclusive mix of antioxidants and vitamin E supports their developing immune system and keeps their body growing strong. Calcium and phosphorus support healthy bone structure, while a balanced energy content helps them maintain an ideal weight. Once your Lab puppy is over 15 months old, transition them to Royal Canin Labrador Retriever Adult dog food for precise nutrition into the adult years. Read more Promoting pet health and wellbeing Creating value for our entire ecosystem Committed to become certified carbon neutral by Cookie Settings. Being a veterinarian, Dr. Cathary decided to make pet food for both cats and dogs that focused on the nutritional needs of these animals. Royal Canin creates and distributes all of its pet food in their own production facilities. Unfortunately, Royal Canin does not specify where they source their ingredients. Despite being very thorough in the details of where their pet foods are made, Royal Canin has not shared much information about where they get the ingredients that go into their products. The company states that they carefully pick their ingredients and try their best to use raw materials that are close to each of their manufacturing plants. However, sometimes they use international suppliers, so not all of the ingredients that go into Royal Canin products are locally-sourced. Royal Canin Products And Recalls Royal Canin offers a huge variety of dry and wet dog food and cat food, such as breed-specific and veterinary diets. The former is formulated for purebred dogs and cats by taking their specific nutritional needs into account. For example, the ingredients used in the Royal Canin Cavalier King Charles Spaniel dog food claim to help with cardiac function. This is a common health concern with the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel as they are predisposed to heart conditions, such as mitral valve disease. For example, the Royal Canin Veterinary Diet Diabetic dog food is targeted for dogs who have diabetes mellitus. The company offers pet foods for all life stages of dogs and cats in both dry and wet form. Royal Canin also has pet food options for small, medium, and large cats and dogs. Regarding recalls of Royal Canin products, there have been a few in recent years. The most recent recall for Royal Canin was in May .The company was told to recall various Royal Canin pet foods, which involved multiple Kasco and Sensible Choice formulas due to possible melamine contamination. The ingredients used in their dog foods are not as high-quality as brands with a similar price tag since they use controversial ingredients such as maize corn , hydrolyzed animal protein, and animal by-products. These types of ingredients are not very nutritious for dogs, and hydrolyzed animal proteins do not name which parts of the animal they come from. This is not to say Royal Canin is a bad brand. The huge variety in their pet foods is notable, and they tailor to an array of different types of dogs and cats, whether they are purebred, small, medium, large, or suffer from a specific health condition. This aspect alone makes it clear why they are popular among cat and dog owners, as not many other pet food brands offer such an elaborate range of products. Based on reviews from consumers, a lot of pet owners are happy and satisfied with their dog foods, so it does show that the brand has worked well with a lot of pets. Additionally, Royal Canin products are available in most pet stores and even veterinarian offices. Product Name. We switched to this when we got her. Reviews are all mixed but I think it might just be really dependent on your dog. Our black lab loves this food. She would much rather have Royal Canin than any of her treats! I would highly recommend. And yes, I transitioned him to the new food slowly. Switched him back to his old food recently and seems to be doing completely fine again. I have never see him physically recoil from any food, but he will not touch this. Took a sniff or two, tried two kibbles I fed him by hand, and backed away. Head-turning, tail down, not going to eat this face. I tried it again the next day. Same reaction. Same rejection. She tried it, immediately spit it out, and would not touch the bowl of food I had mixed it with. Zero for two with my dogs. I will be reaching out to Chewy about this food, because if a lab thinks food is bad, it must taste terrible. Very bizarre. After buying it, I noticed the ingredients list contained many items, including multiple grains. I decided to try a grain free diet instead. Rise in price and less food in the bag is pretty crappy on their part. My puppy is trying to transition from another brand to the Royal Canin that I purchased and is not doing well. She is smart, has a great almost non shedding coat that is thick and shiny black. Her teeth are healthy, white, and strong. This kibble is nice small round pieces think mini donuts this kibble is so good that if our dog leaves any or drops any my kitties will seize upon that opportunity and eat the dog food. You get what you put into your dog, with this food you always get quality. No choking hazard cause of the baby holes, like Cheerios! Chewy has been great; easy to use, fast delivery, great customer service. When I learned how many calories the previous brand had per cup, by advise of my vet, I needed to find a lower calorie alternative to my growing a bit to much pup. I researched and found this product. She loves it and it has helped bring her weight down to a health level! Will move to the adult version next! My Lab loves it and keeps in excellent shape and coat looks lovely! He has a lovely shiny coat and gains by weight whilst keeping his shape. I love this good I'm 7 month black lab, bloody love this stuff.I always buy two bags at a time, and Zooplus seems to beat the others on price. I sometimes get lucky and recieve the 12kg bags with 2kg extra free, an offer that comes a few times a year from RC. Zooplus service is always very good, can't fault them at all. Thanks Zooplus. She was suffering from colitis and the dried food she was on was she experienced often bouts of diarrhea. This food is excellent, she eats it without adding anything, smells nice and is moist. I wouldn't hesitate in recommending Royal Canin absolutely brilliant. Comes perfectly packaged in a cardboard box, quick delivery so a win win situation. I will be back for more next month. Yes its quite expensive but the positive points make up for it. Her coat always has a beautiful shiny lustre to it and her energy levels when needed are there. She always gets excited at meal times so we know she enjoys it too. She also has a beautiful shape to her that is sadly quite rare in dogs nowadays. In all fantastic dry dog food. We are very happy! On top of that they give you extra savings too! Much lower output and she doesnt bolt her food. Pippa is healthy and growing fast. My puppy dog loves this food, has never had any problems with it and his coat is silky and shiny. Transformation has been incredible - vets have never seen a coat so shiny and say what wonderful condition our dogs are in. And no more anti-social moments so highly recommended! He eats until he is finished, without putting on weight. I was worried about this at first but then I thought it must be because this food is very satisfying. My dog is 13 months old and this food is perfect for her! She is not chubby and seems satisfied after every meal.