black golden retriever puppy

Do Father dogs know their puppies? By two weeks of age, they should be alert and trying to stand. By three weeks, they should be trying to climb out of their nest or whelping box. By four weeks, all the puppies should be able to walk, run, and play. How long do puppies stay in whelping box? During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. How do you transition a puppy from a whelping box? By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. Can I move the whelping box? We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. Is whelping box necessary? As the last week of pregnancy approaches, your female dog will often begin looking for a secure and comfortable place to have her litter of puppies. Before this time comes, it is essential to create a whelping box so she becomes comfortable with it and knows this is the preferred place to have her puppies. Do 4 week old puppies need a heat lamp? Young puppies cannot maintain their own body temperature for a week or two after birth. Heating the area over the whelping box with the aid of a heat lamp is usually all that is necessary. When should I remove the whelping box? I usually take them out at about 3 — 4weeks. This is what I have in My box they just stay there all the time. When can puppies go all night without nursing? A six or seven week old puppy can go through the night without needing to feed as long as they have had enough food during the day. Should newborn puppies sleep with Mom? A newborn puppy is completely helpless and dependent upon her mother. Puppies should remain with the mother and littermates until about age eight to 12 weeks. How do you keep a puppy whelping box clean? Clean the bottom with a chemical-free disinfectant cleanser. Spray a bit of chemical-free disinfectant cleanser on the bottom and sides of your whelping box, and use a paper towel to wipe this up. When can I leave my dog alone with her puppies? Can you leave newborn puppies alone with their mom overnight? Should I leave my dog alone while she is in labor? Should I be present during the whelping? Some dogs like the owner to be with them the whole time they are in labor. Others prefer to have their puppies in seclusion. If your pet chooses to be left alone, try to avoid intruding any more than necessary. What is the best bedding for a whelping box? Many breeders use shredded newspaper to line whelping boxes, but others prefer towels and blankets, wood shavings, or even sand. Should I keep my dog in the whelping box? A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Whelping means the process where a female dog gives birth to puppies. And a whelping box is a container or box designed to keep the puppies safe and warm. Having a whelping box makes it convenient for the mother to give birth comfortably. Female dogs are very protective of their puppies. Hence the nesting box offers a sense of security. Female dogs need assistance and a safe place to give birth. Hence, a whelping pen would be of great help. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to get a box or make it yourself. For a small dog like Pomeranian, you can convert a large card box into a whelping pen. You can put your creativity into the process and make a nesting box for your dog. If your dog is big, she might probably give birth to a large number of puppies. Hence, the size of the box should be large enough to fit the puppies and the mother. Furthermore, you can get the box from a pet store if creativity and DIY are not your forte. Here are some of the factors that you need to consider: The sides of the pen should be high enough that can keep the puppies safe for three weeks. Also, make sure that the mother can move to and fro freely. The size of the pen should be spacious enough for your dog and puppies. It should have enough space where the mother can feed her pups comfortably. In addition, it should allow them to move freely. It will help to keep the pups warm when the mom is not around. These are the factors that you need to consider while getting a nesting box. It helps the mother and the pups in the long run. You would notice the growth within the first few weeks. They can move and stand up over the sides of the whelping pen. By three weeks, they become mobile and able to move towards the edge of the nesting box. However, before it reaches that stage, you should take care of it diligently. Some pups would go astray and get lost. Hence, getting a box with proper height is essential. Sometimes the mother has to go out of the box for a nature call or food. The box offers a sense of security both to the dog owner and the mother. When the puppies are born, they have no control over their body temperature. So, while the mom is out, the box will keep them warm. However, you have to make sure that the bottom of the box is covered with a soft blanket. By three weeks, they will start moving, and some puppies might even get out of the box. So, the real chaos begins when they reach three weeks. It would be best if you were more careful than ever. How to Keep the Nesting Box Clean? Taking care of puppies can be quite tiring. Once the puppies are born safely in the box, it would be better to change the sheet or the beddings. The mother will take care of it. However, from the second to the third week, the real work starts. It will help if you make sure that the box is clean. While cleaning the box, you can keep the pups temporarily in a warm blanket. You need to replace the sheet or newspaper at least twice or thrice per day. However, keeping the box clean prevents the puppies from possible bacterial infections. It also helps to keep the puppies clean. You should see that the nesting box is clean and dry. So, like a responsible dog owner , make sure that the box is clean and warm. Changing the Whelping Box to Other Areas Once the puppies have passed the first week, you place the box in other areas. It will help them to get used to the new smell and sounds. However, make sure that the place is quiet and warm. Some kids would like to hold the pups, which would be too early and maybe dangerous. During the first two weeks, puppies are pretty delicate. So, it would be best to keep far away from children. The first three weeks are a crucial moment for you and the pups. The puppies are in their developing stage, and they need a quiet and calm environment to grow. So, you should make sure that puppies are kept safe and warm. They would be too young to take the regular food and would cause indigestion. But you can keep water for the mother. They get very thirsty while taking care of the puppies. She requires good protein and energy to keep the pups fed through her milk. You can place the food in the water once they can move or walk. However, make sure that the food is easily digestible. Also, puppies tend to eat food without a limit. So, you should give the food moderately. Overeating can cause indigestion and vomiting. Hence, it would help if you were careful not to overfeed them. It offers a sense of security to the mother and the dog owners as well. Having a nesting box helps to keep the puppies from going astray. The first three weeks are crucial for the puppies to grow and develop healthily. Having the right size of the whelping box can help both the puppies and the mother move freely. It allows the mother to breastfeed the puppies comfortably. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to arrange a whelping box. It offers safety and assurance to both the mother and puppies. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. A whelping box is an important item to have when puppies are about to be born. You can construct something yourself or buy a specifically designed boxes from pet stores. When can puppies leave the whelping box? Puppies can often leave the whelping box at 3 weeks old. At this age, puppies can move out of the whelping box as they become more mobile. Puppies can stand up and even climb out of the whelping box nest. At this age, puppies start to explore outside of their nest, to find out more about the wide and exciting world around them. Well, I can tell you that a whelping box will help you and the mother cope better with a horde of tiny puppies in their first few weeks. What is a whelping box? Also known as a nest or whelping pen, the whelping box is a container designed to keep the newborn litter in one safe and cozy place. The mother also likes to have a place where she can give birth to her puppies in comfort while having a sense of security. Whelping means to give birth hence the name of the box. It should be placed in a quiet part of the house and set up a couple of weeks before your dog gives birth. This gives her time to get familiar with the box. Image via Pixabay. What can I use as a whelping box? If your dog is a little girl, you could convert a large, sturdy cardboard box into a nesting box. You can make your own if carpentry is your hobby or you could go to the local pet store and buy a whelping box. What to look out for when picking a whelping box You need to make sure you pick a whelping box that takes into consideration the following factors: The sides are high enough to keep the puppies safely contained in their first 3 weeks but low enough for the mother to move in and out freely. The size is big enough to accommodate all the puppies being born. The bottom of the box may come with whelping pads or you can simply line it with newspapers and a soft blanket. Some breeders will use wood shavings to cover the floor of the box. Some whelping boxes come with an extension which is great for more active puppies who are still too young to leave the pen but are moving around quite a bit. Picking the right whelping box goes a long way to keeping mum and pups comfortable and secure. When is the right age for puppies to leave the whelping box? Puppies develop and mature very quickly in their first few weeks. A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Keeping the puppies in one place and even using a heat lamp will help keep them warm. And, when the mother needs time out, she can leave the box and get some space knowing her pups are all safe in one spot. A whelping box gives you peace of mind your puppies are well-protected, staying warm, and not disappearing once they start crawling. But be ready for the exodus once they reach 3 weeks old and might start walking! How do I keep the whelping box clean? If your dog gave birth to the puppies in the whelping box, you would need to change the bedding once all the puppies are safely delivered. Keep them warm with a blanket. Use a non-chemical cleaning detergent and warm water to wash out the box. Remove any dirty bedding and replace with clean blankets, newspapers or wood shavings. Some breeders do put in a litter box for puppies once they start crawling. This could be the first step to house training your pups. Do regular inspections throughout the day to make sure the whelping box is always dry and clean. Can I move the whelping box to other areas? Once your puppies have passed their first week, you could consider moving them to different areas in the house. But remember, you need to keep them warm so make sure there are no draughts and the puppies are not too intimidated by the new environment. Be careful also with handling newborn puppies when moving them. For the first 3 weeks, the puppies are small, developing, and can be easily disturbed by too much activity around them. Do I need to put food and water in the whelping box? The puppies will be drinking milk from their mother for the first 3 to 4 weeks, before moving onto water. For the first 3 weeks, you could keep a bowl of water in the box for the mother. She will be very thirsty while nurturing her puppies. However, once the puppies start becoming mobile keep both the water and food outside the box. Conclusion Get ready for a whole lot of fun, but also stress. She will take them no doubt but being able to help just a little with whelping boxes, nesting, and more will make it so much easier for you. You might also like…. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Pick up the puppies individually and hold them for several minutes at least once a day. Avoid letting small children handle the pups, as they can be too rough. While dams may be protective soon after delivery, they usually allow other people and animals around the litter by 3 to 5 weeks. The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Take them out of the whelping box and let them play in penned, puppy-proofed areas. Introduce them to various surfaces, such as carpeted and hard floors, and give them safe dog toys with interesting shapes and textures. Be sure that the treats are tiny to help prevent unhealthy weight gain. Schedule play dates, and allow your puppies to meet and interact with new furry friends. When introducing a cats and dogs, a dog should be leashed, and a cat should have an avenue to escape if it feels threatened. Go to source Keeping the puppies with their litter and mother for 8 weeks is a must. Separating puppies prior to 8 weeks can lead to long-term behavioral issues. Puppies are highly adaptable, so most adjust to a new home within a couple of days. Go to source Having a familiar object can make a puppy comfortable with its new surroundings. These diffusers, sprays, and collars mimic the pheromones a mother dog produces, which can help soothe a puppy after it's left the litter. During that first three weeks we weigh the puppies daily, trim their toenails every days, and put new collars on them every days as their growth is so rapid. The standard puppies are weighed on a regular digital scale and should gain an ounce a day at first and then up to ounces daily, whereas miniature puppies gain in a tenth of an ounce to start with and then an ounce or two a day. Jenny with litter at birth in 4' x 4' whelping box with lots of absorbent padding. Tasy in her "birthing bed" with the first three pups of the TS5 litter "Tasy" moves into her "doll crib" after the puppies are born - shown here at 3 weeks of age. We find it essential that the dam have food and water inside her whelping box the first week, however once she is willing to leave the box for short periods of time it can be set just outside the box, otherwise she will not eat and drink enough to provide all the milk needed for the puppies well being, and if you are not supplementing with goats milk, your puppies can suffer from dehydration. The standard dam has to produce almost two gallons of milk a day by the time a litter of puppies is two weeks of age. That's twice the amount a good dairy goat gives, who is at least double the dam's body weight. We find that goat milk, canned or fresh, is a much better supplement than the commercial formulas, as we have better weight gains and hardly ever have diarrhea in our puppies. If you have more than 8 puppies it is also essential that the dam's tail area and vulva be washed each time she goes out to go, as since there are not enough teats to go around there will always be a puppy trying to latch onto the vulva. The puppies can pick up bacteria and worm eggs, and a one celled organism called coccidiosis in this way which can lead to diarrhea. Mandy with AM3 Litter x Sterling at 1 week old. We practice what we call "giving the puppies an opportunity to learn" as a puppy raising method. We whelp the puppies in one corner of the living room where we have easy access to the box. We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. This is the first stage of their house breaking. Within hours the smartest puppies of the litter, barely able to crawl, will crawl out to use the paper and then crawl back into the whelping box. Within a few days the entire litter will usually be using the paper. Supplementing the puppies these first weeks gives us a good chance to play with the puppies feet, and get them used to their faces being handled for grooming, however even when we don't supplement we take time daily to handle every puppy and get them used to different textures, smells, and having their feet, faces, ears and tails handled. At three weeks of age when the ears open we start their cereal feeding, and use a soft clap with a "come, babies" command each time they are fed. This leads to the next step in the transition of removing the second box and the addition of a paper lined exercise pen to the whelping box at four weeks of age. At this time we start walking the puppies outside about every two hours from AM to PM. During this time ,the 4th-5th week, we teach them some basic commands - "in", "out", "potty outside", "walk", "watch", and continuing with their "come" command. Once they have understanding of these basic commands we then take them out to an outside play yard, regardless of the weather. It's really important to have this set-up close to an outside door if possible, or to use sections of an exercise pen to make an aisleway directly outdoors. Puppies can be carried outdoors, however their "potty outside" is learned much faster if they walk out the door in tune to the "out" command and the "potty outside" command at the same time. Usually within two days my standard puppies have quit having messes on the paper and are actually asking to go "out" - often at AM at this stage, and I do get up to accommodate them as this speeds their training amazingly, and I have a lot less mess to deal with - and less dirty crates when that time comes along. You can see that I do sleep within hearing of the puppies - usually until those we are continuing training with for their new families are weeks old. TS5 Miniature Litter - 2nd day of cereal feeding and 1st trip outside to the "big" world. We also start the grooming training at 4 weeks of age - starting with a bath with a soft water spray in a utility tub, and using a soft flow warm air dryer and a slicker brush - brushing the coat up the body toward the head, and up the legs toward the back as it dries. We always groom on a table, or the washer or dryer, or a counter - this is essential in getting the puppies used to being groomed on a grooming table and getting over any tendency toward the fear of heights. We cuddle them in our arms on the table to help them feel loved and secure, and to build their confidence level. We try to take pictures at birth, day old individual pictures, then every week thereafter for their new families, and for our albums. We also try to take litter shots as well at the various stages. I find that special touches add a lot of enjoyment, both for us raising the puppies, and for our families who are kept in the "link" of their puppy growing from infancy to toddler weeks. A Tasy x Promise Puppy before his first grooming and after his first grooming. My, oh my, what a difference!! We also start the worming program at four weeks of age - and this is really essential if you occasionally have a puppy that coughs after feeding, or vomits back up milk or cereal. Round worms are the one type of worm that the puppies can get in utero, and they grow as fast as the puppies. A heavy case of worms can often mimic other serious conditions in young puppies. It is also essential to use a low dosage of wormer in cases of heavy infestation, and at times give the puppy a few drops of oil by mouth, and possibly even an enema with a few drops of oil to help pass the worms. We use pyrantel pamoate for our first series of wormings. It is essential to worm every days until no worms are seen - these worms look like spaghetti - and once you see a litter of puppies pass them you never forget them. The wormer works in about six hours and is very effective. We have a computer generated health record that we complete on each puppy, and note all the worming's on it and on the litter weight records as well. Once the worming has been done, and if the teeth are coming in on the entire litter we start adding softened and mashed with potato masher kibble to the puppies cereal mixture - gradually reducing the rice baby cereal. During the next two weeks we gradually start adding cooked rice, cooked oatmeal, scrambled eggs, cottage cheese, ground apple and carrot, and a supplement Green Vibrance which has microbials in it to their soft feed. As soon as the puppies are able to eat dry kibble well and not just play with it we gradually reduce the soft feedings to AM and PM. The puppies often prefer dry kibble during times of heavy teething, however dry kibble no matter how well promoted does not meet all of their nutritional needs. Also the more organically chemical, steroid, and low grade antibiotic free a puppy can be fed, the better for its health and longevity. We keep our puppies on microbials their whole life as this keeps their intestinal system in optimal health - they absorb more nutrients, they produce less fecal material, they are less prone to other bacterial infections, they don't have smelly gas, they are less prone to bloat typical in a number of large breeds , they have better pigmentation as a result of absorbing more nutrients. We have also found that since taking this approach to diet that puppy and show coats on adults are more luxurious. As you can see their fourth week involves a lot of changes for the puppies. At six weeks of age we start the weaning process - although most "mothers" have already started it. A poodle "mom" is the most devoted creature ever the first week or two, but after that usually reclaims part of her own life to be with her human family. She will return to the whelping box every few hours to take care of her puppies needs, but other than that spends her time on a blanket or pad outside the box. Using a higher powered water spray, a higher powered table dryer, and if the coat is still thin enough a palm pro clipper again to clip the face, feet, tummy and tail. At this time Mishelle also adds standing the puppy properly on the table and does the first scissoring around the tail head and up the rump - as much to get the puppy used to the sound and feel of the scissors as because there is that much coat to scissor off. This is also when we try to take the first pictures of the puppies in a nice stance to send to everyone. This also helps to train the puppy for standing on the table which benefits when we do the conformation evaluations at 8 weeks of age. Puppies fearful on the table are very difficult to assess. This is also essential for miniature puppies that are going to be shown. It's very sad when a miniature is put on a table in the show ring for the judges inspection, and is fearful. Just minutes a day on a table, being encouraged to stand and be touched, can make a remarkable difference in just a week. A Maddy x Calvin puppy at 6 weeks of age after her 2nd grooming Six weeks is also when we remove the whelping box, as the mother now just gets in with the puppies about 4 times a day and either sits or stands to nurse them. She also starts to regurgitate her feedings for the puppies at this stage. The teeth are starting to come all the way in at this time, and the puppies will start sparring, and at times will really yelp. They learn at this stage not to bite each other too hard, and this is the first step to them learning not to bite humans too hard. We often have families who want to get their poodle puppies at this age, especially if they are going to training in agility. We do not allow any puppies to go to their new homes until they are weeks of age, as we feel that they need the "sibling rivalry" stage to learn aggressive and defensive behavior - which is learned by their interplay with each other. Many of our poodles go to homes with runners, and I can't tell you how many times they have had to defend their owners from aggressive dogs of other breeds, and always successfully. You never know when your poodle may have to come to your defense, and the maneuvers they learn as puppies at this age are the foundation for their defensive techniques, increase their alertness, and the speed of their thinking and their reactivity time. I love watching the puppies develop their skills during playtime at this stage. It is their transition from infancy to toddlers. It is also at six weeks that we remove the whelping box replacing it with two small crates without the gates on. Our favorite crates are the Furrari's, as they just snap together, and the gates can be opened from either side and simply lifted off for this stage of training. The first night all the puppies will crowd into one small crate - then I will hear them in the middle of the night groaning and grumbling, and in the morning the puppies will be divided between the two crates. That day we add a third small crate, and go through the same process - which we repeat until there are two puppies per crate. We never put the gates on at this stage, just allow the puppies the freedom to sleep in or out of the crates, and to play with them. We estimate that a poodle puppy develops 21 years in it's first year. From infancy to toddler, to preschool, to kindergarten, to pre-adolescent, to adolescent, to pre-teen, to teenager, to post teen, and early twenties. Their intelligence is equivalent to that of many humans, and the learning of human vocabulary in a standard poodle is amazing. They are a joy to work with and to train, many almost training themselves. At this point we start giving the puppies rawhide chew bones to help with their teeth cutting, the cardboard rolls from toilet paper, paper towels, tape rolls, and small boxes that they can pack around, tear up and destroy. Much like a toddler builds a stack of bricks and then knocks it down destructive stage so also does a puppy need to go through this stage. So we give them things that don't cost anything, that are light weight, and the right size around for a puppy jaw to pick up. They love it. We also start giving the puppies soft and hard toys to play with, and also try to observe which puppies in the litter are water lovers - they play in the water and empty the container almost as fast as we can fill it. We often get asked for puppies that like water by families that boat, or live on rivers or lakes, or on house boats. We start watching closely for the different types of personalities that the puppies have, how they relate to each other, to new situations, to new people, to other animals they come in contact with. Those that are more adventuresome, more curious, more courageous, etc. We are also watching for activity levels and how they move. It is also at weeks that we take the puppies to the back yard to play - as they are then big enough to be taught to go up and down steps. We have closed back steps, and open backed steps like condos and the steps at the air cargo depots for them to learn on. This can be quite a challenge to some, and we usually have to delay this training with the miniatures for a couple of more weeks when they are a bit bigger. They are so proud of themselves when they achieve success in going up and down the steps, even though it is just three steps - and will run up and down just for the joy of it. In the back yard they also learn to drink from an automatic waterer, so that they don't fear the hissing sound as it refills. Having nice clean feet, faces, and tail head and rump helps us to evaluate the puppies much better, and they will score better when all can be seen and evaluated. We do not give the puppies any treats prior to testing, nor do we do any actual crate training in closed crates. At this age the puppies get their first bath in the grooming tub with a harder spray of water instead of in the utility tub. The Force dryer is used for the first time, and the Andis or Oster clippers. This is also the clipping that helps us to determine the color that the puppies might end up as - blues and silvers are born black, silver beige and cafe-au-lait can be born very dark brown, light apricots that are going to cream out - we study the nose, feet, heels, and under the tail and neck for signs of color change. Tasy x Promise Pup - Black - at 8 weeks! A Mandy x Sterling Pup - Silver - at 8 weeks. Silvers and blues are born black and change gradually - starting with the muzzle and feet We try to schedule temperament testing 16 tests and conformation evaluations a three page form using AKC breed requirements, International breed requirements, and Puppy Puzzle testing at 8 weeks minus or plus three days, as this is the most accurate time for assessing conformation before the puppy starts its rapid growth spurts. This is at times a little early for temperament testing, however as so many families want their puppies at 8 weeks of age, it is necessary to do this before the litter starts to go to new homes. Often our entire litters are reserved before they are even born, or at least by the time they are 6 weeks of age, and this helps us to match puppies and their capabilities and personalities and temperament to the homes they are going into, especially the puppies that are shipped across the United States. This also means asking our prospective families for lots of details about their home style, their activities, other pets or animals in or around their homes, and what they want to do with their puppy as an adult. We also help families at this point to decide the best age of puppy to suit their lifestyle, as many families in todays age have difficulty getting the time those first weeks to house train a young puppy. The weekly cost covers food, treats, training, vaccinations and wormings. Temperament testing is beneficial, although there are those that disagree. It is done in a strange place by a strange person. It's purpose is to note the natural instincts and adaptability of the young puppies, and our families have found our assessments to be pretty accurate as their puppies have developed. The disadvantage of testing at 8 weeks versus 12 weeks, is that puppies can be conceived over a ten day period. The gestation period is days, with all of the body development being in the first 50 days, and the weight gain being in the last days. If the bitch whelps according to the first puppy conceived, then the last puppy or puppies conceived may not have had much weight gain - however due to genetics it will not always be the smallest puppies. When we do temperament testing we also try to be aware of which puppies opened eyes first and last, which had teeth coming in first and last - as these can be indicative of which puppies in the litter are the oldest and the youngest - as the psychological development can also be different, with the thinking processes of the youngest not being quite as developed as the thinking processes of the gestationally oldest puppies. In temperament testing we are looking at social skills, inanimate object retrieving instincts, sensitivity testing, chase response, bird retrieving instincts, perseverance and motivation. These help to determine which puppies might be best suited as companions, service and therapy candidates, agility and obedience prospects, those with "bird" instincts, and very important today those with good search and rescue and tracking instincts. Conformation evaluations are where we literally take a puppies body structure apart and put it back together again - all on paper. We are looking for the few puppies in a litter that are the most correct by breed specifications in bone structure. As companions for runners, horse back riders, hikers, bikers, etc. Most of our standard puppies, after 10 years of breeding are quite structurally correct - however we try to match structural correctness, temperament and personality to the needs of a family. To be a pick of the litter puppy it must score high in all three areas. At times a structurally correct puppy may not have the best temperament for competitive events, and a senior family doesn't need a puppy with a high working drive. When we complete the testing we vaccinate each of the puppies and tattoo them with their individual identification number - that designates their dam, her litter number, and the number of puppy within the litter - in their left ear. This tattoo must be read and entered in the medical records of the puppy by the families veterinarian at the time of the "well puppy check" within 10 days of receiving the puppy for our 2 year from date of birth guarantee to go into effect. As soon as the testing is completed we start crate training the puppies. The first night two puppies are put into a crate with the gate on, and given 3 small treats. They are cuddled before being put into the crate, and we use the "in" command which they are used to. When they are taken out in the morning they are hugged and cuddled again, and given their "go potty outside" command as we take them "out" the front door. The second night they are crated individually, and are also crated during the day for short periods of time, to get them used to taking "naps" in their crates. They are always given three tiny biscuits when we want them in their crates, and usually within three days they compete to see who can get in the crates first and turn around for their treats. Usually at this age the puppies will crate from approximately PM to about AM without having accidents in their crates, however I do get up in the middle of the night and let them out if someone gets really fussy. In hot summer weather they at times need out during the night to get a drink just as much as they need out to go potty. We always make their last soft feeding of the day by PM, so that they have plenty of time to evacuate before bedtime. Remember poodle puppies are very smart, and if they get me up several nights in a row - I watch very carefully to see if they really needed to go - and if not they have just decided to get me out of bed for some extra attention and playtime - remember the pre-adolescent who wants another drink of water, etc. They will test their new families in the same way, and if they win they are ruling the family instead of the family ruling them. At this point the puppies are ready to go to their new homes to families living locally, or those driving from other states to get their puppies. If they are flying we keep them for two more weeks - and ship when they are approximately 10 - 12 weeks old. This allows us to start travel training and leash training of the puppies, and allow them to develop better holding capacity for daytime crating before shipping. Also it gives us time to receive family t-shirts worn until sweaty and placed in ziploc bags to give to the puppies in their crates three days before shipping. Having items of clothing which we tie into knots for a pillow or toy allows the puppy to get used to it's new families scents, and helps it to adapt and bond much more quickly. It also gives us time to ship their puppy pack to them, before the puppy is shipped. We follow up on our puppies for years, and encourage our families to keep in touch with us and contact us with any questions regarding nutrition, training problems or needs. We also board our own puppies back, which is wonderful as then we get to assess their development and personalities as adults. We have families now who purposefully plan their vacations for the Oregon Coast just so they can leave their much loved poodles with us - they come from as far away as Montana, Idaho, north eastern Washington, California, Utah, and of course the closer regions of Oregon and Washington. Unless we are expecting a litter imminently they get to come back and live in the house with us, and always enjoy playing with so many other poodles in our huge back yard, and side yard play areas. We also continue any training that is in progress on the younger puppies. A Mandy boy at 15 weeks! A Lucy daughter at 1 year - sent by her family in Idaho Many of our families also return with their puppies to take the one-on-one grooming classes with us - with Mishelle now being the primary instructor. Many of our families are now doing all of their own grooming, and even if they aren't have found the class very beneficial as they have learned what to expect from a good groomer. Many have returned for second and even third classes to learn advanced scissoring techniques, and several are now learning show grooming and handling from us as well. It's biblical that the older are to teach the younger - and we feel very strongly about this after not finding anyone willing to assist us when we first started out. We want those who have a true desire to become breeders of the poodles to start in the right way, learning to do the proper testing and research, taking part in genetic research projects, learn to groom their poodles properly, and to breed properly, caring for their whelping bitches and puppies correctly. Mishelle should have been in the picture with "Eve" but was in the Show Ring with her instead. She groomed 14 standards and 2 miniatures for this show. The poodle is a wonderful and unique breed - sharing life with it's family. Stages of Puppy Development Birth to 3 weeks The first 20 days of a pups life it is not capable of much learning. The mental capacity is about nil. The pup will react when it is in need of food, sleep, warmth and its mother. During the first 3 weeks it is VERY important to look after the dam as well. She will in turn, look after the puppies. Once or twice a day the puppies should be handled by a human and they should be weighed daily. During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. Newborn puppies sleep most of the day away. No matter what the breed, this is the time when the dormant senses wake up. From day 21 to 28 puppies are in need of their mom more than any other time as their brains and nervous systems begin to develop and they become aware of their surroundings. As mom jumps out of the box, they suddenly watch her wondering where she went. Pups may start climbing out of the whelping box at this age, so it is time to expand their home. At this stage we add a small potty area beside the whelp box. If a puppy were to loose his mom at this stage it would greatly affect his emotional wellbeing. Emotional growth is just blossoming as the puppy realizes it is alive. It is also at this age that characteristics can develop like shyness and fear. Any negative characteristics that develop at this stage in life are often permanent personality traits. The puppies sleep 20 or more hours a day. They will not go far, but they will begin to explore. At this time we expand their area to add a play and eating area in the daytime. This is the time to move them out to the kitchen and family room area, where life is happening in the home. This is not the age to be in the back bedroom, garage or barn. During this time, a puppy will learn to respond to voices, sounds and recognize different people. The puppies in their group will establish a 'pecking order', some will want to lead and some will want to follow. The dominant ones will eat first and the omega ones will wait. The dominant ones can become bullies and hog all the toys. This is an important stage to watch to learn the temperaments of each puppy and should be used for placing puppies into the proper homes. Some scientific studies prove that if there is a bully in a litter that is making others cower and be shy it can set in traits that are very hard to turn around, but it is also important to leave puppies in a social group long enough to be adventurous and for the puppy to acquire some social competitive skills. On the same note, a puppy should never be allowed to get too pushy. While shyer puppies have to learn to handle themselves in social groups, a dominant puppy needs to learn it is not acceptable to be a bully. Different breeds need to be separated at different ages. Often if the bully is adopted out first the remaining puppies will loose some of their shyness. Puppies at this age sleep 18 to 20 hours a day. By 7 weeks, a pup is considered emotionally developed and ready to learn, but the pup does not possess an adult brain yet. At 7 weeks old the breeder of the pups can start crate training for an hour or two a day with 2 pups in a crate. This helps with separation anxiety. By 8 weeks of age a puppy should be able to go in a crate alone for a nap, and it is almost ready for its new home. A puppy should never be taken away from it's mother before weeks of age. The mother dog teaches the puppies in the litter manners, respect, social skills, and proper etiquette, along with many other valuable lessons. When a puppy misses this stage it can cause the pup to have future behavior issues as most humans do not understand natural dog behavior enough to teach the pup these things. What a puppy learns now will be retained and become part of who the dog becomes and his personality. Most dams stop caring for their pups by 7 weeks, as they have teeth and she pushes them away. If a pup is left with the dam during this period it's emotional development can be altered, as it remains dependent on her. The same can happen if littermates are placed together. They rely on each other instead of the new owner and they often do not find adequate security in their mom or littermate. They need their new owner to take over the role and it is important that the humans understand natural dog behavior in order to fulfill the puppies instincts and needs. First shots should be done at 7. When a puppy stays with his litter after 8 to 9 weeks of age without adequate human contact it doesn't adjust as well to a human social life. The optimum time to take a new puppy is from 8 to 9 weeks of age. It is always best to have a pup do his learning from his new owner and in his new home. Puppies are often adopted out at 8, 9, 10 or 11 weeks. Older puppies can do just fine if the breeder has spent a lot of time socializing them away from their littermates. Ideally 9 weeks seems to be the perfect age for most breeds to go to new homes. What the dog learns from 8 to 12 weeks will be with him forever. At this time the puppy must be introduced to other people and go for walks on the pavement street avoiding dirt or grass until it has had its 2nd shots. If the first shots are done at 8 weeks and second are done at 12 weeks it is a good idea to enroll in puppy kindergarten that starts right at 12 weeks. At this age on up to several months old, puppies will sleep 16 to 20 hours a day, give or take depending on the puppies energy level and the activity around them. Sleeping more during rapid growth sprurts. The sleep is broken up between night time sleep and naps during the day. It is common for a puppy to play hard, running around with bounds of energy, then suddenly crashing into a deep sleep. It is important to keep in mind that all puppies by this time have formed a general personality. Some are natural born leaders, some are middle of the road and could go either way and some are very submissive and really prefer not to lead anything. All puppies have an instinct to have a leader who can provide structure, because in their minds without it the pack cannot survive. Therefore even the most naturally born submissive dog may feel the need to take over as an alpha should they feel everyone else around them is too weak to care for the pack. These dogs are often very stressed out about their role because they really do not want it, but feel the need to lead just the same. After all, to them it's a matter of life or death. One of the biggest questions new owners call about is that the pup is an angel for the first couple weeks and then it starts to nip in an attempt to control things around it. This happens when a puppy does not see the humans as natural born leaders to which it can respect and it attempts to get the pack in order. If this happens it does not necessarily mean you got a bad puppy, but often means you are not being a good canine owner. Owners must be calm but firm and follow through. Set the rules of the home and stick to them. Teach basic obedience and how to heel on a leash. Do not let the puppy bolt out the door. Stay calm and confident and remember that dogs can feel your emotions. If you have emotional problems your dog knows and will see you as a weak being. Always remember to a dog anger is a weakness, so take a deep breath and control yourself. Should the puppy feel it is stronger minded than the humans it will not want to be at the bottom. Puppy owners should be prepared that the pup may attempt to establish itself as the dominant one in the family. This is where you need to understand a dog's natural instincts and learn their language so you can read them. It may see whether it can physically strike out at his owner like some teens and could nip or growl. Should this happen be prepared to stop the behavior immediately. It is kind of like kids wanting dessert before dinner or to stay up later. You just have to say NO. Each dog is different, just as kids are, therefore you need to figure out what works for you and your situation. If it is being aggressive one method is to pin it on its back and hold him there with a firm NO. If a pup is allowed to get away with bad behavior it will lose respect for the owner and learn that rebelling gets him his own way. The key is for the humans to be calm, confident and firm all at the same time. If you find yourself yelling or angry you as the human are out of control and need to learn how to portray yourself as someone your dog can look up to and respect. Dogs do not listen to unstable humans and anything but calm, confident and firm, to them is unstable. There should be zero tolerance for aggressiveness. Heaps of love and understanding will not stop bad behavior. A pup must be shown fast and firmly that you are the one in charge. If you have a good breeder who understands the dog even returning him for a few days can help as the breeder gets the dog back under control and you assess your own behavior and understanding of this animal you are trying to live with. Sending a dog away to be trained without training yourself never works, as the way your dog is acting often has more to do with the humans it is living with. This goes for any dog of any age. Learn how to groom your dog. Teach it to lie still for grooming and nail trimming. If you are having trouble call the breeder or a behaviorist for help. It is best to have earned a dog's respect and trust in regards to grooming by 16 weeks of age. A pups natural instinct will be to periodically try to test the order in the pack. Especially if there are children. If the owner is submissive, quiet and week, thus making the dog feel the need to lead the home, its respect for its owner will weaken and the owner will become inferior in the dogs eyes. In these cases the owner is destined to be owned by the dog and you will surely see behavior problems emerge. A puppy should have a good start on crate training when it leaves a breeder's home. Help your puppy feel secure by giving it its own bed and crate in a place where it can be alone when it needs some quiet time. It should be crated for one or two naps per day, especially when making and eating dinner and crated at night. It should not ever have the run of the house till after 6 months of age or housebreaking and training can become very difficult. A puppy should start formal obedience by 6 months of age, preferably sooner. Remember when you choose to adopt a dog you are choosing to take an animal into your home. The animal is not a human baby and humans are not born with canine instincts. Take some time to learn about the canine and be prepared to change your way of life to accommodate the new member of the family. The puppies have arrived. They have been weighed and identified; they have nursed and are now sleeping quietly except for the normal twitching. Now what? Your job is not over yet, in fact, it's really just beginning. Nutrition and Feeding The mother will be ready for some food and water. Bring the dishes to the whelping box, as she will not want to leave the newborn puppies. Do not leave the dishes on the floor in the whelping box, as the puppies could crawl into them. Hang the dishes from the side of the whelping box or offer her food and water at least every hours to start. She should be taken outside on a frequent and regular basis to relieve herself. Within days, the mother's appetite will dramatically increase to times her pre-pregnancy intake. She will need a near constant supply of a high quality puppy food do NOT use large breed puppy formulas, which are generally lower in protein, fat, and minerals and water to maintain her weight and health while feeding the puppies. She should not look gaunt or thin if her weight is maintained. Ideally, she should weigh the same at the time of weaning, as she did when she was bred. A healthy puppy is firm, plump, and vigorous. Puppies should nurse every 2 hours or so. If they nurse until their stomachs appear round and they sleep quietly, they are eating enough. If they are crying and moving a lot, they are not eating enough. They may be swallowing air, which makes the stomach appear larger. As they become weaker, they will lay still and not cry. Their weight should double in the first days. Before, during, and after nursing, the mother will lick the stomach and perineal area to stimulate urination and defecation. She will continue to do this for weeks. Weigh the puppy daily for the first 2 weeks, then weigh at least weekly. A food scale typically works well for weighing the puppies. Failure to gain weight is often the first sign of illness in puppies. At about 3 weeks of age, the puppies will begin to imitate the mother's eating and drinking. A secure shallow water dish should now be available at least part of the day. Prepare the puppy mush by placing 2 cups of high quality dry puppy food in a blender with .This should be blended until the consistency of human infant cereal. This feeds puppies of a medium-sized breed. The puppies should receive meals a day of this to start. Once the puppies have checked it out, walked in it, and have eaten some, the mother can be allowed to finish it and clean the puppies off. Each week, increase the amount of food, decrease the amount of the milk replacer and water that is added and the time of blending, so by 7 weeks of age, the puppies are eating dry food. Once they are on dry food, it may be left in with the puppies when the mother is out of the box or the meal times can continue. As the puppies eat more solid food, the mother may be let away from the puppies for an ever longer period of time. If the weaning is not rushed, she will naturally start decreasing milk production, as the puppies increase their intake of solid food. As the puppies begin eating the puppy mush at 4 weeks of age, start changing the mother's diet back to adult food to also help her decrease milk production. Keep increasing the adult food and decreasing the puppy food until by the 7th week postpartum she is eating only adult food. Hopefully she has been fed well during pregnancy and lactation so she weighs the same at weaning as she did before pregnancy. Want to learn how to save on your dog's veterinary care? Click here Sanitation and Housebreaking During and after whelping, the mother should be allowed to go outside to urinate and defecate. Take her out on a leash bring a flashlight if it is dark , and watch her closely, as she could have another puppy. The whelping box needs to be changed at least once a day at this stage, and times a day as the puppies begin eating solids and the mother is not cleaning up after them. A large heavy paper may be laid on the bottom, several layers of newspaper over that, and a tightly stretched blanket over the newspaper. The blanket should be large enough to fit under all 4 sides of the box. If the box was made so the sides set into the floor, the sides are picked up, the blanket stretched, and the sides set down to hold the blanket in place. Puppies can become lost under blankets or under wrinkles in blankets. When cleaning, check the consistency and color of the puppy stool. It should be brown and formed, but not overly firm. Any deviations and the veterinarian should be contacted. To facilitate housebreaking, the puppies should be given definite feeding, playing, sleeping, and elimination areas. Once the puppies are mobile, they will use one area for elimination. Cover this area with a layer of newspapers with cedar or pine shavings on top. The new owners then place a small amount of cedar or pine shavings in the preferred location of their yard to aid in housebreaking. Keep the elimination area clean and dry. Puppies head toward the heat source to nurse so do not have the heat source warmer than the mother. Hanging a household thermometer on the inside of the whelping box will help you know the temperature in the box. Puppies typically lay side by side or on top of each other to share warmth. If the puppies are scattered throughout the whelping box and away from the heat lamp, the temperature is too warm. If they are all piled on top of each other, it may be too cold. Puppies need the extra heat, as they are unable to regulate their body temperature until several weeks old. Health of the Mother Each mammary gland and nipple should be checked at least once a day for redness, hardness, discharge, or streaking color. If mastitis develops, the veterinarian should be notified immediately. If caught early, milking out the affected gland and applying hot compresses will help prevent a spread of the problem. Sometimes, antibiotics are necessary. If she gets multiple glands with mastitis, the puppies will need to be bottle fed. The puppies' nails should be trimmed weekly starting within days of birth. This will help prevent some of the scratches on the mother's mammary glands. The deciduous teeth start coming in around day .Check the mammary glands of the mother daily for bite marks. The mother will have a bloody discharge from her vulva which may be quite heavy for several days. It should decrease in amount and become darker and be almost gone within weeks. The mother's hair may have become very thick and luxurious during the pregnancy. Around the time of weaning, the mother starts to shed. This extreme loss of hair coat is natural and it should be back to normal in about another months. This shedding is more extreme than a normal shed cycle and some mothers become quite bald. This is often called 'blowing a coat. Click here Puppy Healthcare Puppies who are not thriving should be examined as soon as possible by a veterinarian to check for birth defects. Some defects, such as a cleft palate are not compatible with life. These puppies should be humanely euthanized. Dewclaws are removed and tails docked at days of age. Make an appointment with your veterinarian for these procedures to be done. Check your breed's standard, as some breeds need to have dewclaws left intact in order to show. Tail length changes, so again, the current breed standard should be consulted. When the puppies are at the clinic and having these procedures done, the mother should be taken for a walk around the block until the puppies are done. She should not be close enough to the clinic to hear the puppies crying. Once they are put back with the mother, the puppies normally nurse and then sleep. Vaccinations are started at weeks of age. Some breeders give a parvo virus vaccine at 5 weeks of age, if the puppies are at a high-risk. Ask your veterinarian if your puppies should be vaccinated early for parvo virus. They recommend puppy deworming for roundworms and hookworms start at 2 weeks of age and be repeated at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Thereafter, use a heart worm preventive medication that is also effective against hookworms and roundworms. Foster and Smith suggest that owners of newly acquired puppies obtain the deworming history of their new pup and contact their veterinarian to determine if additional deworming is needed. The mother should be dewormed at the same time as the puppies. A health check done by a veterinarian at weeks of age before the puppies head for new homes should include checks for heart murmurs, hernias, cryptorchidism, demodectic mange, other parasites, eye disorders, etc. Normal puppy development The umbilical cord normally falls off within days of birth. Infections of the umbilicus are rare in clean, well-managed kennels. Puppies normally twitch and jerk while sleeping. This helps with the development of their nerves and muscles. The puppies crawl well by days, walk at 16 days, and have a normal gait at 21 days. They need to be on footing that offers traction. By 4 weeks of age, the puppies follow each other and carry toys in their mouths. They will play-fight with each other and learn how to inhibit their bites. If a puppy bites a littermate too hard, the littermate will yelp and stop playing with him. If the puppy is allowed to bite humans, he will not learn to inhibit his bite. It may be cute as a 7-week old, but it will not be as a 7-year old. Puppies are born without teeth. The deciduous baby teeth start to erupt at weeks of age. All of the deciduous teeth are usually present by 8 weeks of age. The puppies' eyes will open around days of age. The retina matures around 21 days of age. Puppies should see clearly by 4 weeks of age. Do not pry open the lids for any reason, as the immature eye is not yet ready to handle light. If the eyes appear swollen before they open, take the puppy to a veterinarian immediately as an eye infection may be present that needs to be treated to prevent loss of vision. Some puppies will take a day to open the eyes while others will take days. The eyes will have a bluish color to them at first and then change to their adult color over time. If the eyes appear white or solid blue, take the puppy to the veterinarian right away. The ears open at days of age. They should hear clearly by 4 weeks of age. Deafness may not be noticeable while the puppies are together and first noticed when the puppy is in her new home. Interactions Between the Mother and Puppies By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. The box at this point should be big enough to be divided between eating, sleeping, playing, and eliminating rooms. At this stage, a crate with the door removed and lined with sheepskin or a dog bed can be given to the puppies for sleeping quarters and to familiarize them with crates. Puppy Socialization Early socialization of the puppies will help them become confident and develop fewer behavior problems. The puppies should be exposed to everything possible from metal food dishes dropping, to vacuums, garage doors opening and closing, thunderstorms, sirens, garbage trucks going past, cats, and other pets, etc. Do not try to keep the area quiet during the day. The puppies need to get used to normal household noises. Children should be allowed to play outside the whelping box supervised so they do not enter the box or drop toys in , as children behave differently than adults. Everything the puppy is exposed to now, will help her become a well-socialized, unafraid adult. The puppies should be handled several times a day. They can be picked up, their teeth looked at, ears checked, toes played with nails will need a weekly trimming , and have anything that may be done as an adult started slowly now. Play helps to develop the puppy's mind, as he needs to find solutions to problems he encounters. If the puppies are not in new homes by 10 weeks of age, they should be separated from each other for a large part of the day and given one-on-one time with humans. They can have play times during the day, but they should eat, sleep, and be handled separately. Being in a kennel group situation beyond weeks of age decreases trainability. Ready to start saving money on pet wellness care? Then take a look at Mint Wellness, the pet wellness plan that provides fast reimbursement on routine pet care. Save on vaccinations, wellness exams, preventatives, dental, and more!

These dogs are born from Poodles with other purebreds like pugs, Labradors, or Cocker Spaniels. Since the s, doodle dogs have increased in their popularity—and it's not a wonder why. These breeds are often low- to non-shedding, and are consider to be a safe bet for most people with allergies. Their personalities make them ideal companions for many people, too. For example, Bernedoodle dogs tend to be more stubborn but they have lower energy than a Goldendoodle. Another thing that people should look at is the generation of the doodle. Generation refers to how far removed from a purebred pairing—like a purebred Poodle and a purebred Labrador as parents. Which ones are your favorite? This has become one of the most sought-after "Doodle breeds" due to their winning combination of good looks, smart wits, and hypoallergenic coats. They also make reputable therapy pets. If you admire these gentle giant dogs for their goofy, placid personalities, then one of these pups might be for you. This tends to be a good choice for those with allergies because the poodle coat is often inherited rather than the Labrador coat—however, you can find a variety of colors depending on the parent. These dogs are intelligent, friendly, and moderately active. Friendly and caring, they usually manage to stay happy with other pets and family members. And while these dogs are sweet, they may require some training to rein in their playful personalities. They also go by the name of Wheatendoodle, the Wheatenpoo, the Sweatendoodle, and the Sweatenpoo. These are energetic dogs, but despite their high energy, they don't tend to bark much. They are a rare breed mix and may be difficult to find. This small, fluffy, high energy breed is an adorable addition to the family—especially if you are looking for a dog that's rambunctious and loves to play with the kids. The is likely to be a shaggy yet stately looking dog, with an obvious athleticism derived from its strong hunting poodle origins. Compact, feisty, and fun in spirit, what these dogs lack in size, they make up for in their personality. They are on their best behavior in the company of their owners, as they tend to bark or dig when left alone at home. Incredibly smart, energetic, and loyal, these pups have a work-hard, play-hard mindset that best suits someone with an active lifestyle. These are big, lovable dogs that are incredibly smart and equally stubborn. But while training them takes additional patience, the reward of their loyalty and devotion is well worth it. These dogs are charming, funny, and smart, and their alert nature—thanks to that double dose of working-breed attentiveness—makes them excellent watchdogs. These dogs are friendly and affectionate little comedians with a sweet temperament and a zest for life. It's also believed to be the oldest of the designer dog breeds in America, dating back to the s. It's also commonly known as the Havadoodle or Havanoodle—their intelligent and playful personalities make them a total joy for the whole family. And if you want a calm, sweet dog with lots of love to give, then this mix fits the bill. But calm doesn't mean small. They can grow to be as big as pounds. Because of their eager-to-please personalities, they tend to be protective of their families. This dog may have the curly coat of a Poodle or the long, straight coat of a Shih Tzu, but he always has a cute, alert expression and a sturdy body. When it comes to big breeds, this mix wins the prize—weighing anywhere between 70 to pounds. These dogs are fun-loving, affectionate family companions that need lots of room to run around and plenty of food to meet their nutritional needs. Petite and curly-coated, this is a delightful mix that is likable in personality, if not a little feisty at times. They tend to be vocal if alerted to something, and so they make good little watchdogs. Was this page helpful? Height: 23 - 27 inches at the shoulder Weight: 80 - lb. Lifespan: 10 - 12 years Bloodhound Poodle Mix Personality Like all hybrids, you have to look to the parents to get a good read on how they will likely behave. This could obviously make for a very large mix but should be rather friendly. They should get along well with other animals if exposed and socialized properly as well. They are somewhat capable of independence, or alone time when the house is noisy or full. She responds well to positive reinforcement, like all dogs. She should be rather affectionate and enjoy spending lots of time with you. Bloodhound Poodle Mix Health All dogs have the potential to develop genetic health problems as all breeds are susceptible to some things more than others. However, the one positive thing about getting a puppy is that you can avoid this as much as possible. A breeder should absolutely offer a health guarantee on puppies. A reputable breeder will be honest and open about health problems in the breed and the incidence with which they occur. Health clearances prove that a dog has been tested for and cleared of a particular condition. Bloodhound Poodle Mix Care What are the grooming requirements? The Bloodhound Poodle mix should be a relatively moderate maintenance dog. The Blood Hound is a more aggressive shedder than the Poodle. Be prepared to brush them a few times a week. Either way, get ready to invest in a good vacuum if you want to keep your floors clean! Give them baths as needed, but not so much that you dry out their skin. Never tie your dog up outside - that is inhumane and not fair to him. What are the exercise requirements? Like all dogs they will do better if they get plenty of exercise. This should be a rather high energy dog that will need regular exercise. Plan on exercising them daily to keep their energy level down. He might be bouncing off the walls so get ready. A tired dog is a good dog. What are the training requirements? Though intelligent, it might be stubborn and demanding. All dogs respond best to positive reinforcement. So make sure to praise her when she does well. She is an intelligent dog who loves to please, and loves a physical challenge. The more exercise she gets the easier she will be to train. Proper socialization is impeScottishive to all dogs and puppies. Make sure to take her to the park and doggy day care to get her around as many people and dogs as possible. Bloodhound Poodle Mix Feeding A lot of times diet is done on a per-dog basis. Each one is unique and has different dietary requirements. Most dogs in the U. A mix like this one that is prone to hip and elbow dysplasia should really be on fish oil and glucosamine and chondroitin supplements as soon as possible. Overfeeding any dog is not a good idea as that can really exacerbate health problems such as elbow and hip dysplasia. A good diet to look into is Raw Food Diet. A raw food diet will be especially good for the Wolf background. Links to other breeds you might be interested in. Final Thoughts What is a Bloodhoodle? The Bloodhoodle is a result of cross-breeding a Bloodhound and a Poodle. They can also be called a Bloodle or Poohound. Rosie, a Bloodhound-Poodle mix image: Reddit. These mixed breeds, also known as designer dogs, create a new hybrid breed with characteristics of both the father and mother. The Bloodhound-Poodle mix is one of the most interesting of the so-called designer dogs because of the unique history of the parent breeds. They were bred to be hunting dogs. Despite having the same origin, each breed passes on unique traits to the Bloodhoodle. Bloodhound Bloodhound The Bloodhound ancestry originated as far back as the 3rd century, but Western Europe created what we now know as the Bloodhound about years ago. The pre-reformation church is credited with Bloodhound development at that time. Only the rich, for example, royalty in France and England, owned the hounds. They were kept in well-cared-for packs at the monasteries by their wealthy owners. The aristocrats discovered the dogs were great hunting companions. They could follow the trail of deer, birds, and other wild game all day, alerting the hunter when found. Since then, these dogs have earned a reputation for following the scent of someone with a great single focus. Law enforcement began using them in searches for lost children, fleeing criminals, and anything else law enforcement needed to be found. Two adult Bloodhounds sitting next to each other. Bloodhounds have been named as heroes routinely when it comes to finding lost children alive. Additionally, hunters still use these dogs to hunt and sniff out prey, although the hunters no longer need to be royalty. Bloodhounds have transitioned to become family dogs. They are still used as scent hounds and hunting dogs. They were bred to accompany hunters to retrieve waterfowl and upland game from the water or field. When temperatures were freezing, their owners would leave hair on their chests and joints to provide sufficient insulation from the cold. Many Europeans, especially the French, took a liking to Poodles, and the breed began to spread across the continent. In France, the Poodle was a great attraction as circus performers. The breed was selectively bred to produce a smaller dog for easy transportation and handling. Outside its circus and hunting activities, the Poodle became extremely popular as a much-loved companion. The Poodle is the second most intelligent dog breed after the Border Collie. They are agile with lots of energy. They are loving, loyal companions, good with children, and very easy to train. Appearance Bloodhounds are large, heavy, strong dogs. They come in three different colors. Standard Poodles have long, athletic bodies. They have a curly coat that comes in many varied, beautiful colors.

In fact, they can snore loud enough to keep the whole household awake. Because this is a breed characteristic -- all dogs with very short noses snore -- you can't completely eliminate it. You can, however, lower the frequency or the "intensity" of the snoring. Step 1 Make sure his sleeping area is cool and well-ventilated. If Doggie's not comfortable or if he's overheating, his snoring will worsen. Bulldogs don't do very well in hot weather, according to the Bulldog Club of Northern California. Make sure he gets to sleep in an air-conditioned room to help ease his breathing. Step 2 Have Doggie checked by your vet if the intensity or frequency of the snoring has changed recently. Some bulldogs suffer from brachycephalic upper airway syndrome or laryngeal edema, both of which affect the airways and make breathing more difficult. Step 3 Put Doggie on a diet. Bulldogs can become overweight very easily, especially if you don't keep them active. As with people, excess weight can make breathing more difficult, worsening the snoring. Step 4 Change the humidity level of the room and see if that helps. Open a window if you can -- the flowing air might help ease his breathing. Not enough? Get a humidifier and place it near Doggie's sleeping area. More Articles. And all breeds and dogs with short noses snore. It is no different with English bulldogs. It is one of the characteristic features of this breed and in fact, they are big-time snorers. English bulldogs are loud snorers because of their short noses. The bulldog ranks number two out of five for dog breeds that snore the most. While all their idiosyncrasies make them a unique breed to have as a companion, at times their loud snoring can be quite annoying. Their snoring could get loud enough to keep everyone in the house awake. The only breed that beats out the bulldog for snoring frequency and volume is the Pug, its shorter and funnier looking snub-nosed canine brother. Why do bulldogs snore? The primary reason bulldogs snore is because their short nasal structures impact their ability to breathe efficiently. Bulldogs have big heads, flat faces, and short noses. Their airways are constricted due to fatty deposits in their throats and that makes breathing very difficult for them while they sleep. Many of them have long tongues and soft elongated palates that disturbs their breathing even more. Nasal blockages: Obstruction in the nasal passages of your bulldogs can cause very loud snoring. They already have short nasal passages and if blocked further they will tend to snore loudly. Check for any foreign objects in their nasal passages such as grass, dirt, or soil. Allergies: Bulldogs as a breed are prone to many allergies and snoring could be a side effect of that. When bulldogs get allergies, their nasal passages swell, thereby further narrowing the breathing passage. This shrinking of the passages makes it difficult for your bulldog to breathe properly and as a result, they could snore loudly while they sleep. Some bulldogs will snore more when they sleep on their sides while some snore while laying on their backs. Medication: Many medications that a bulldog may be taking such as antihistamines, muscle-relaxants, or sedatives have side-effects that directly or indirectly interfere with their breathing. Sleeping in hot-sultry conditions: If bulldogs are left out in a hot and badly ventilated area they can overheat. This can lead to an increase in breathing discomfort and subsequent loud snoring. Other known ailments: Some bulldogs commonly suffer from chronic swelling of the airway known as laryngeal edema which causes loud snoring. Others have a brachycephalic syndrome which can cause them to collapse during exercise or when excited. This also can lead to their body temperatures rising which causes snoring and other health complications. But there are ways to reduce their snoring to more tolerable levels. Exercise on a regular basis: Regular exercises will help your bulldog tone his muscles and reduce accumulated fat which in turn will be effective in reducing their snoring. The more exercise they get, the more fit they will be, and the less laborious their breathing will be. Placing a humidifier in their sleeping zone to moisten the air and ease their breathing might help to reduce their snoring. Keep changing their positions to determine which is the most comfortable and in which position they snore the least. Then try and encourage them to sleep in that position for their optimum comfort and less snoring. Try using a puppy pillow: You will see most dogs sleeping with their necks on the ground and their snouts out. This conventional sleeping method can lead to loud snoring. Not only will your dog love it, but you can also shift your dog to an area around your house with the right temperature and proper ventilation so that they sleep more comfortably. Keep their sleeping areas clean and well-ventilated: Make sure that the area where your bulldog sleeps is clean and dust-free. If their snoring gets worse please seek professional medical advice by contacting a vet. When to seek medical help? Certain medical complications such as hyperthyroidism and sleep apnea in your bulldog can cause loud snoring. Apart from impacting their sleep quality, this may be impacting their overall health as well. While snoring in brachycephalic dogs such as the bulldog is common, if they show signs of discomfort, illness, or other unusual symptoms, it might be time for your bulldog to visit a vet. Your vet will advise you on the course of action and any corrective measures that can be taken to reduce and eliminate the symptoms. In extreme cases, where there is a major obstruction in the air passage that cannot be treated by conventional medication, other techniques such as surgery may be recommended. This is very unlikely, but again your vet is the best person to advise you accordingly. Though bulldogs are one of the most frequent and loudest snoring dog breeds out there, most owners are willing to live with it. And if not, we suggest investing in a good pair of earplugs! The simplest way to stop your English Bulldog snoring is to move them. If you do want some peace and quiet with the best ways to stop your English Bulldog snoring without having to resort to invasive and painful surgery, read on! As a brachycephalic breed and how they have been bred, they will snore more than most breeds. With old age comes even more snoring as the muscles in their airways weaken and they start putting the pounds on — all of which leads to more snores when combined with those loveable flat faces and narrow nostrils. However, unless completely medical necessary, you might want to look as non-surgical snoring remedies first. Speaking of which, the first few items here on how to stop your English Bulldog snoring could help. Prop them on a pillow when sleeping When English Bulldogs sleep, they can restrict their airways due to the angle they lie at. You could prevent snoring by having them propped up against a pillow with their head raised up. Give them a bed with raised up sides If you want to give your English Bulldog an extra element of luxury, you can still use the head prop up method, but with a brand-new bed instead. Give them a rounder bed Another bed option would be a round and circular bed see on Amazon. According to my vet, if you can encourage your English Bulldog to curl up when asleep, it can take the pressure off their oesophagus, giving more room for air to come in and out when breathing. Keep their air fresh and circulating An English Bulldog that sleeps in a hot and stuffy room will be an English Bulldog that snores. Smoke increases phlegm in their throat, and further constricts their air passages… it can also lead to canine heart disease according to VetStreet. But you can help by using a humidifier view on Amazon that will put moisture into the air, thus reducing snoring. Just like us, dogs can be allergic to pollen and dust, and it will make their snoring worse. I also recommend keeping them away from busy roads, as exhausts can cause similar issues — then ask your vet to test them for allergies. Keep their bed linen clean To help with this, keep their bed and linen clean. Keep their weight in check Excess weight leads to snoring as it puts additional flesh and pressure on the pharynx or soft palate. If your English Bulldog is overweight it could be that just by getting their weight down to a respectable level with dieting you help resolve their snoring problem. Handy Hint: If you think you could be feeding your English Bulldog too much, please read this guide which explains exactly how much they should eat each day to remain a healthy weight. Some dog medicines such as antihistamines, muscle relaxants, pain killers, and sedatives are known to contain elements that relax throat muscles and create snore vibrations. Check for blockages airway blockages If your English Bulldog has suddenly started snoring, then check their throat and nasal passages for blockages. Something as simple as blades of grass in the throat or a small obstruction in a nostril can create snores — as well as more serious health conditions such as tumors! Check for signs of infection in their mouth or nose It could be something else altogether blocking how they breathe. Some English Bulldogs can develop allergies, colds, and infections in their airways — if the snoring is partnered with a runny nose and sneezes then get to the vet for a check-up. Decay and abscesses can block air flow leading to significant breathing issues. Touching of throat and mouth tissues, Feeble throat, Fat build up in the throat, And Obstruction in the nasal tube that may or may not be congenital nasal structure. Snoring in Bulldogs May Be Caused By Sleeping Position While Brachycephalic dogs snore mostly because of the structure of their nose and skull, their sleeping position may contribute to it. Some dogs are more likely to snore when they sleep on their side or back compared to when they sleep in on their stomach. His face is flat and his nose is short. They also have constricted airways due to the fatty deposits in their throat — and this makes breathing more difficult for them especially when they sleep. Some of them even have long tongues and elongated soft palates, which impedes or disturbs the smooth flow of air when they breathe. Medications Can Also Worsen Snoring in Bulldogs Some pain medications, antihistamines, sedatives, and more have muscle-relaxing side effects. But this effect should go away when your Bulldog is no longer under medication. Bulldogs are very prone to allergies and this can contribute to their snoring. When a Bulldog suffers from allergies, the airways may swell and cause the airways to become smaller. The shrinking of the airways will make it harder for your Bulldog to breathe and will cause him to snore when sleeping. While it may be impossible to fully stop your Bulldog from snoring, there are things we can do to reduce it. Here are some more tips that may help reduce snoring in Bulldogs. Exercise your Bulldog. Adequate exercise should help your Bulldog tone his muscles that can hopefully reduce his snoring. Do not over-exercise your Bulldog to prevent him from overheating. The additional moisture in the air the humidifier brings can help your Bulldog breathe better. Leave a Reply: Leave a comment below and share your thoughts. Contact Why Do Bulldogs Snore? And How to Minimize It! Sleepless nights, baggy eyelids, and bloodshot eyes. These are all common bulldog owner symptoms caused by the non-stop snoring of a beloved pet throughout the night. Yes, bulldogs snore, A LOT, but they are soooo cute and wonderful pets otherwise. But the snoring can put anyone on edge. What comes out of a bulldogs mouth in its sleep is otherworldly. Why to bulldogs snore? There are several reasons actually, ranging from their sleep position, possible allergies or having a common cold. But the biggest culprit is their scrunched up, pushed in faces. This is known as brachycephalic condition which leads to all types of breathing issues to include snoring. Brachycephalic or Respiratory System and Snoring in Bulldogs Part of the reason bulldogs snore are their scrunched, pushed in faces which can create lifelong respiratory issues. Some respiratory issues are more severe than others. This is also the reason why bulldogs grunt so much as well. A bulldog with brachycephalic will have air passageways that are more narrow, potentially blocked, or irregular. This in turn will impede a clear flow of air into the lungs. A Bulldogs breathing will sound more labored or wheezy due to this condition. This respiratory condition further explains all the funny noises and grunts that will be heard coming from a bulldog. But again this is not all fun and games. It is serious business to understand what this condition is and how to best nurture and treat a pet with a pushed in face. A few things to be aware of that can occur from your bulldog having respiratory conditions are as follows: Snoring While Sleeping — As you can begin to understand, your bulldog will snore through the night, in most cases. Gagging Easily — Whether eating, chewing on something, or just plan breathing you may notice more gagging then most pets. This is common and typically okay, as long as a foreign object is not lodged in your bulldogs throat. Excessive Oxygen Intake — Bulldogs tend to over breathe at times, especially while they eat. If a bulldog ever eats too much that means bloating and gas. Which create other uncomfortable situations while you and your bulldog sleep during the night. Overheating — A bulldogs need daily exercise and should step outside everyday. But exercise extreme caution in the heat. During hot days or longer walks your bulldogs raspy breathing can faint, overheat, or even have a stroke. Allergies, Obesity, and Colds Can Make Your Bulldog Snore So a bulldog with a less than desired respiratory system is only one problem in a long list of issues. Bulldogs deal with other health conditions like: allergies, obesity, and the common cold. All of which can have negative effects on your resting pooch and the volume or frequency at which it snores. Allergies Dogs are prone to allergies and that is no exception for a bulldog. If your bulldog has an allergic reaction this could flare up its sinuses, cause inflammation and swelling in their respiratory system and more. Be sure to read What are Bulldogs Allergic to? This reaction will affect the bulldogs breathing and most likely lead to more excessive snoring while it sleeps. Some common allergies to be aware of are: Bug Bites or Stings Tip: Give your bulldog anti-itch cream or vet prescribed medication if the reaction is severe. Food allergies can be anything from stomach sickness, itching, gas, etc. Medication Allergies Tip: When your bulldog takes new medication know what type of side-effects are common. The medication may still be fine for the specific prescribed need. If the side-effects continue or your dog exhibits other severe reactions contact your vet for further medical guidance. Dust or Pollen Tip: Keep dust to a minimum in the home. Clean frequently which includes vacuuming, sweeping, and dusting. Wash regularly carpets, dog beds, etc. And change your air filter on a regular basis. This is a basic fix that is common missed but can have a substantial change to the air quality inside your home. Another important tip to decrease your bulldogs allergies is to avoid situations where smoking is present. If you are a chain smoker, please step outside and away from your pet to do it. This is for their best interest and yours. Second hand smoke can lead to additional health issues such as allergies. Obesity If your bulldog is obese there can be excessive fat build up in its throat. Because the air flow will be limited your bulldog will breathe heavier and snore heavier. A healthy bulldog is the best type of bulldog. Make regular exercise a daily routine and walk your bulldog at least 15 minutes. This will help shed unwanted weight when combined with a healthy diet. A healthier bulldog will breathe easier and sleep better. This includes a somewhat quieter snore, but there are many exceptions to this rule. Common Cold Bulldogs can get sick and if your bulldog is feeling under the weather and catches the common cold this will have implications on its respiratory system. Breathing will be more labored and this will affect the frequency and noise of its snore. To help your bulldog fight this common cold you should do the following: Have your bulldog drink plenty of liquids. Continue to go on walks even if they are slightly reduced with your dog to maintain its peak condition while battling the flu. Feed your dog nutritious, high end dog food or organic meat and vegetables. Place a humidifier by its bed to reduce swelling and a constricted nasal passageway. A humidifier can also be used when your bulldog is not sick to potentially reduce its level of snoring on an average day. The type of sleep position a bulldog is in will open up the passageways differently in any respiratory system. Sleeping on the side, stomach, or back will have a different effect altering the volume of snoring, types of noises your dog makes, labored breathing, etc. It is typical for a bulldog to snore when sleeping on its back and may snore even while on its side or stomach. To know which position is best for your bulldogs snoring try to reposition your dog when its sleeping. If the snoring wakes you, jump up and rotate your bulldog to see if another position with reduce or stop the snoring. Having your bulldog in the right sleeping position can be all that stands in your way of a good nights rest. Surgery to Fix Bulldog Snoring If snoring is getting out of hand and you notice that your bulldog is having a difficult time breathing, it may be time to take action. Seek the advice of an experienced veterinarian that can address the matter head on and decide what the next best course of action may be for your bulldog. Each case is unique but a skilled Veterinarian, experienced with treating bulldogs, will be able to advise if surgery is a necessary treatment or if there are other alternatives. Surgery to treat snoring bulldogs would be used to remove any obstructions to the bulldogs natural airflow in its respiratory system. Correction could be made to the bulldogs soft palate by trimming excess or remove of obstructions to expand the bulldogs nostrils. When surgery is performed on your bulldog, you may see significant improvement. Some noticeable changes may be more energy, breathing easier, less noise grumbles, snorts, gagging, etc. These changes can seem minor but truly improve the overall quality of life for your bulldog and even for yourself think less sleepless nights. Surgery is a big decision so make sure that you are consulting with your Vet thoroughly. Make a list based off the professional feedback to visually see the good and bad with the surgery. Take time to ponder what you write on this list and on what the Vet said. At the end of the day you will need to make the decision that will be best for yourself and your bulldog. So make sure you are confident in the final decision. What to Expect with Bulldog Snoring If you are shopping for your first bulldog, young or old, do some research. If buying from a breeder , request the parents health pedigree to review their historical medical information. I would recommend seeing the parents of the new pup as well to assess their health and wellness. Step away and keep looking. Remember, whatever breathing habits the parents are displaying will most likely be passed on to your newly purchased bulldog pup. The same recommendation goes if adopting from a shelter. Listen to the bulldog and ask to go for a short walk. Watch how the bulldog can handle a short walk and if anything substantial stands out with its breathing. Is it displaying a shortage of breath, low energy, making loud noises when breathing, etc? What is your overall assessment of the bulldog? By recognizing potential health risks you should be able to decipher some of the warning signs of a loud snoring bulldog. Again, bulldogs will snore but you want an overall healthy bulldog with a good history. If none of these matter you know what to expect and the actions that can be done to minimize the overall snoring noise. Tips to Minimize Your Bulldogs Snoring A bulldog will most likely snore but you are fully capable of minimizing the noise and frequency of snoring. You can rest more peacefully and so can your bulldog by make change today!

Available Puppies Who We Are We, at Eternal Frenchies Chicago, want to establish our presence as more than just breeders: We are also a family-owned business that is absolutely in love with the French Bulldog breed. We want to promote Health, Professionalism, and Knowledge in the breeder world. Aside from that, we love to see the smile on your face when we provide you with your next partner and family member. We believe every experience with us should be memorable and amazing. We make it happen! Eternal Frenchies Chicago was created because we wanted to be the change needed in the breeder world. From seeing puppies of other breeders in poor conditions to being horribly bred, we decided it was time for a change. We want to raise standards and expectations that were held in the French Bulldog breed. We understand the market is flooded with breeders who do not put a focus on the overall health of each puppy, and that is what we are focusing on changing. Eternal Frenchies Chicago works with a network of breeders to provide you exactly what you are looking for! If you are looking for a specific type of French Bulldog or English Bulldog, we can help! We work with a network of breeders that we know are able to provide you healthy puppies or adult dogs. If we feel a puppy that has been given to us is unhealthy in any way, we will ensure their optimal health before allowing them to be put into their new home. You can count on us to provide you the best. We offer assistance with payment plans or guidance for financing any of our puppies! We offer full AKC registration, full vaccinations, and any other special accommodations you may request as part of your purchase. Delivery options available if need be, however pick up is always preferred so that you may interact with your puppy before taking them home! We focus on Health, Temperament, Socialization, and overall health of each and every puppy. We ensure every puppy leaves our home understanding what love and happiness is! Support us by sharing our business or purchasing your next puppy with us! Delivery options are available for select puppies, or we can guide you on how to pick up your puppy if you are out of state! Follow our Social Media platforms to see available puppies or feel free to send us a text! We Help Other Breeders Not finding what you're looking for with us? Still contact us! We work with a network of breeders and may be able to provide you with your next partner! We do thorough checks on all puppies or adult dogs coming from other breeders as we ensure optimal health of every puppy we sell. Button We Educate and Assist Our team will ensure you are properly educated and answer all your questions on the French Bulldog breed. We also provide you the necessary information needed to start your journey with your new puppy. We come with knowledge and experience, and we would love to share it with you. We take our time to understand your needs regarding your future furbaby, and its here waiting to go home with you. French Bulldog Puppies for sale in Chicago, IL We are breeders of Frenchie Puppies in Chicago We are re-defining the pet store, with transparency and a focus on socialization, health, and temperament. Just as people want to know where their food comes from, so should they know exactly where that Blue french bulldog puppy for sale near you came from as well. By fostering proper socialization, we reduce transitional shock and encourage stability, ensuring your new Frenchie becomes a loving, well-adjusted companion. .So we offer the strongest Health Gaurantee in the industry. To read more about where why you should never chose a frenchie from a faceless entity. If this decision is important to you, then stick around and learn more about our French Bulldog program and the various colors and personalities we produce. Also check out our Education blog before taking home your puppy to ensure that you are well prepared. We have answers. Experienced breeders and businesses usually charge higher fees because of their expertise. When you search through Uptown, you can be matched to puppies that fit your budget. What kind of dog is a French Bulldog? Designed in the s to be a lapdog, Frenchies resemble their bigger cousin, the English Bulldog, but are smaller and sweeter in demeanor. They have large heads, expressive eyes, and perky ears which make them very memorable. Today, the French Bulldog maintains its reputation as a great apartment dog and is a favorite among city dwellers. Why are Chicago French Bulldogs so expensive? Due to the way their bodies are built, French Bulldogs find it difficult to breed on their own. Their narrow hips make natural conception and birth almost impossible. They need to be artificially inseminated and to deliver the puppies, a C-section is required. The medical assistance and expertise needed for breeding Frenchies are the reason for its high price tag. Can I only find a match with French Bulldog breeders in Chicago? You are free to search the entire Uptown Puppies network to find the best French Bulldog puppy for you! Experienced breeders and businesses will know how to best deliver the puppies to their new homes. You can arrange for pick up at the nearest major airport, or pick up your new puppy from their kennels and get the chance to meet the parents! How do you screen French Bulldog breeders in Chicago? There a lot of Chicago-based breeders and businesses that contact us on a daily basis, wanting to join our network. Once they are in, they take our legally binding Breeder Pledge. Our goal is not to just to sell -- we want to connect families with ethical businesses so they are guaranteed a healthy French Bulldog puppy. These irresponsible businesses also tend to ruin the breed by not following the standards. What is a puppy mill like for French Bulldog puppies in Chicago? These illegal businesses spend very little in canine healthcare to maximize their profit. Puppies from puppy mills often have very short lifespans or suffer from health and behavioral issues that are very difficult to treat. Are there any French Bulldog puppies in Chicago right now? Uptown Puppies will help you find the perfect French Bulldog puppy within your area, price range, and availability.

Our commitment to the breed! The German Shepherd Dog is an exceptional dog. GSDs are able to perform at a high level in many different skills and duties: search and rescue, nose work, protection, herding, service and therapy work, and sport work, all while being loyal and loving pets. A GSD will always have your back! Unfortunately, poor breeding has created many genetically flawed and sick dogs. These genetically flawed dogs break hearts and bank accounts and destroy the standard of the breed. Our breeding program is committed to providing genetically sound, clear in the head, true-to-the-breed-dogs, both in body and mind. All our breeding dogs are genetically tested for disease markers to ensure that they will not be subjected to these diseases. All our dogs go though hip and elbow testing and all are titled in Schutzhund or AKC and are certified in police, service or therapy disciplines. Our breeding stock are all imported or from imported stock and have outstanding lineage. From a Medal of Honor winner and IPO3-titled dog to a certified narcotics detection and patrol service dog - our GSDs come from highly awarded lines, true to the breed and clear in the head. We start working with our puppies the day they are born. They receive early neurological stimulation: They are introduced to sounds of city noises and thunderstorms starting the third week - these sounds are introduced very quietly at the beginning and increase over time. We "play" as soon as they are able, working their natural drive and building confidence. They get a head start on the housebreaking process: At 4 weeks we introduce a "litter" box and at 6 weeks we move to outside potty breaks. We begin crate training at 6 weeks, with the goal of having them sleeping singly by the time they go to their forever home. You will appreciate this more than you know! And of course, they are age-appropriate vaccinated, microchipped and thoroughly examined by our veterinarian. Exercise Grooming In the 19th century, Shepherds bred all kinds of dogs mainly to herd and guard flocks. Thus, the dogs needed to display a high level of intelligence, extra normal strength, resilience, courage and bravery, a keen sense of smell, and trainability qualities, etc. These mongrel combinations provided dog breeds that could efficiently guard and herd flocks but differed in appearance and ability, from one locality to another. German Shepherd dogs are well known to be highly inquisitive which makes them excellent for rescue mission training. The German Shepherd has a noble character and shows very high levels of loyalty to its owners. The dog is also described as extremely territorial and has displayed characteristics of overprotectiveness in some cases. The German shepherd can survive in all types of environment; their thick furriness makes them better prepared for cold climates. German Shepherds are considered extremely playful and active. These breeds spend half of their daily routine with activities. The German Shepherd is popularly known as an athletic natured dog and requires a good dose of daily exercise to keep up muscle tone, build and development. If improperly exercised the German Shepherd has been known to become frustrated and exhibit undesirable behaviors. The German Shepherd requires an occasional brushing, as this helps with removing loose hair from its fur. The German Shepherd sheds fur once or twice a year and in this time the breed requires a lot of soft brushing. This can be done using a soft to medium bristle brush. The German Shepherd occasionally requires that its nails are trimmed off when they grow too long, however, some breeds instinctually file their nails against any hard surface that can be fine. Excessive nail growth can cause much pain and even lead to structural concerns. In choosing a German Shepherd breed you must ask yourself what it is you want in a dog and what kind of person are you? Our German Shepherd puppies for sale come from either USDA licensed commercial breeders or hobby breeders with no more than 5 breeding mothers. We only purchase puppies from the very best sources, and we stand behind every puppy we sell. German Shepherd Puppies for Sale. We have answers. Of course! Are there any San Antonio German Shepherd puppies for sale right now? Every single breeder and company on our site is pre-screened to ensure they match our high standards when it comes to not only breeding, but transparency. Do you have the cheapest German Shepherds for sale San Antonio? Rather than focus on price, the breeders and businesses that we work with pour their heart and soul into breeding the healthiest and happiest German Shepherd puppies. We only work with the best breeders, and we know that their prices reflect the time, dedication, and financial investment it takes to breed the best. Whether or not to choose to bring home a shelter dog or one from a breeder or business in the Uptown network all comes down to choice. Before being cleared for travel, your puppy will get a clean bill of health. We highly recommend requesting their records and then booking an appointment with your local vet for once your pup arrives. Is it enough to walk German Shepherd puppies San Antonio, or do they need more exercise? So as well as regular active walks, you need to spend plenty of time looking after their mental health as well. Training classes, agility, puzzles, and games are all ways to keep these smart dogs engaged and content. How big will a German Shepherd for sale San Antonio grow? German Shepherds are tall and powerful dogs. Males are larger, weighing 65 - 90 pounds, and standing 24 - 26 inches tall. They might be big, but they still love a good nap on the couch! What will a San Antonio German Shepherd for sale be like to train?

Why Do Golden Retrievers Jump? Golden retrievers jump because they love people. They want to interact with us and greet us, and they like to greet people face to face. We communicate with our eyes and mouths, plus there are lots of smells up there, so it makes sense that they want to engage with our faces. However, the problem is that since we stand so much taller than them, they try to jump up to meet us face to face. So before you can start really working on teaching them to not jump, you have to teach them to sit and stay seated while you greet them. Step 1: Regularly Exercise Your Dog One of the big reasons dogs jump is because they have pent up energy and they can barely contain it when they see you. So before training or greeting people, make sure to tire out your pup both physically and mentally. You can do this by playing fetch, tug, or giving them a puzzle toy like a frozen kong great for mentally wearing them out. Remember, a tired dog is a good dog. Instead, you need to show them with your actions and your words what you want them to do. The most straightforward way is to ask them to sit. The best time to correct an unwanted behavior is right before it happens, so when you see your puppy is about to jump, ask them to sit, and then praise them and give them treats when they do. You can also teach them what you want by rewarding them for good behavior and ignoring them for unwanted behavior. They might keep jumping for a few seconds but the moment they sit their fluffy little butt down, praise the heck out of them. However, with this strategy, you need to be careful because when you reach down they might leap up again, so it may take a few tries for you to actually be able to reward them with all four paws on the floor. You can set aside some time for training where you walk in and out of the door and just practice polite greetings. Another way to practice polite greetings is to bring over a friend or family member and practice with them. For one, they see you all the time, so seeing new people may excite them a little extra. For instance, my in-laws absolutely love my golden, Oliver. When he was a puppy they would come over and he would leap up on them and they would just praise and praise him. And the best way to do that is to keep your puppy on a leash. That way, even if you have loving doggy grandparents, you can stop your puppy from jumping up, getting rewarded, and setting your training back. Then, invite them to greet her, but tell them that they can only pet her if all four of her paws are on the floor. If your puppy breaks the sit before they can greet her, then you need to try again. Eventually, she will get it right, and your friends and family will enjoy being part of this learning process. It takes time, but if you stick to the steps above, your golden retriever will learn to not jump up on people. Have any questions about teaching your dog to stop jumping? Let me know in the comments below. And if you know someone with a golden who jumps, please share this with them! Related articles:. Tom Thorpe Blog Golden retrievers are renowned because of their friendly personality. However, their eagerness to please their human owners may come in the form of jumping on them. It is not a pleasant experience. You should also factor in that food is the reason your Golden retriever wants to jump on you. In all cases, a Golden retriever jumping up and biting is not something an owner wants. Fortunately, this behavior is easy to train out of them. It would help if you investigated why your dog does it in the first place. The following article teaches your Golden retriever to behave properly and stop jumping on people. It should be noted that dogs are opportunistic. If there is a way to get what they want, they will follow those routes. One example is the Golden retriever learning to get your attention by approaching and playfully jumping on you. This behavior starts in the puppy stage. You may find that your little fluff ball reaches for you with his front paws, and you find it irresistible and start petting them. You have just taught your puppy that they will get what they want whenever they put there are two front paws in your lap. They will continue with this behavior in the future. If you find that your Golden retriever is only jumping on people to get attention, it is easy to mitigate this behavior. Make sure that your Golden is not rewarded for this behavior. Give him another activity to do instead that comes with a reward. Getting Started With Training Before you train them, you will need to prepare a few items. You might require a muzzle until the training proves to be successful. You will also need chew toys and treats on hand. Another option is to break his food into tiny pieces. Put aside 10 minutes a day for training. Make sure that the timing is peaceful and there are no distractions in the house. You may also want to purchase a deterrence collar as well as a water spray bottle. Once you have everything ready, have patience, and be optimistic. You can begin training. Step one Each time your Golden retriever jumps on you or other people, it is crucial that this behavior be ignored completely. The best move is to walk away. If you react in any way, such as shouting no and pushing them away, it still reinforces the behavior since negative attention is still attention. Make sure you lay down rules. Step two Many dog owners will instruct their Golden to sit. In this case, your Golden cannot sit and jump on you at the same time. There are two methods you can follow. Please wait for your dog to calm down and instruct them to sit. You may also give them the cue to sit. Reward them immediately when they respond. The reward you give should be anything your Golden was trying to get by jumping on you in the first place, such as a toy treats or a petting. From this moment on, your Golden retriever will only get what they want if they sit. In the case your Golden has hip disease problems, your option is to call them down and instruct them to four of the floor. It would help if you waited until your Golden is standing calmly. At this point, reward them. You need to train them consistently and be patient. In the end, it works because dogs repeat behaviors when they are rewarded. For teenage Goldens full of energy and extremely excited, you may opt for a down command. It will be harder for them to transition to a standing position in spring up from a down position. Step three This caps the training steps. It is what you need to apply while your Golden retriever is being trained to sit for rewards. You might find that you are dealing with an extremely strong Golden, so make sure to have a leash handy. It is a handy tool, especially when you encounter people that encourage jumping behavior. There might also be extremely exciting situations, causing your Golden to forget his manners. In these cases, you need to control their behavior. If your Golden is on a leash, you can simply walk away with him. You can also step on the leash to stop them from jumping. You can lead him to a room so they can calm down. Once they are calm and settled, you can bring him out. It may seem harmless in the puppy stage, but it can be a little intimidating as adults. Start training by offering them chew toys when you want to pet them or play with them. It will keep them from targeting your fingers, feet, and toes. If you have children in your household, teach them this method as well. When you approach your pet, stroke them or scratch them, and make sure you have a chew toy on your other hand. With this technique, they will resort to chewing the more satisfying object you are offering. Make sure to switch the hand where you carry the toy occasionally. The point of the training is to instruct your puppy that petting and people are harmless and good, and so are chewy toys. Start slow and keep training time short. It can show in different ways: Your dog might become fearful of hands near their mouth and head. They might become completely fearful of you and run and hide when you are present. Your dog might become extremely aggressive and bite to stop you from hurting them again. It might just excite them and make them more excited and nippier. They might get the impression that a show or smack is just playing. Protecting Your Children From a Golden Retriever Jumping up and Biting If you have children, they might not be able to enforce the training and behavior required to discipline your puppy. The majority of children will push the puppy or run away from them when they are bitten. The puppy will get the impression that this is just playing, and will continue the behavior. When it comes to your children, make sure they are always supervised when playing with any dog. Final thoughts A Golden retriever jumping up and biting is never positive, although some people will be amused. Your Golden retriever exhibits this behavior because they are excited. It is a way of showing their affection. Make sure you are firm and consistent when you train out this behavior. Golden retrievers are intelligent and highly trainable, so they will soon adopt good manners and proper behavior with you. Stopping Golden Retrievers Jumping up on People on 0 comments Golden Retrievers are some of the most popular dogs in the world. They are loving, loyal, and affectionate companions to their owners. However, if you get a Golden Retriever as your pet and it leaps up on people, you may be frustrated by this behavior. Dogs usually jump on the people they meet to get their attention. However, these attention-seeking jumps are often dangerous and annoying for human beings. Are you worried about this habit of your dog? No more worries because proper training can stop your dogs and puppies from jumping. However, teaching Golden Retrievers not to jump is quite challenging. All of your problems will resolve, like the spoiling of the dress due to the dog with muddy paws. But when you plan to teach them, you should be patient during the dog training. In this blog post, we will discuss how to stop your Golden Retriever from jumping on people. There are various reasons for which dogs and puppies usually jump. Before training your dog, you need to understand when and why your Golden Retriever jumps. Following are some of the reasons why your dog jumps. Attention It has been observed that most dogs jump upon people to seek your attention. Pay your Golden Retrievers proper attention when they are calm rather than when they jump up on you. Excitement If your dog jumps upon you and your family whenever you enter the home, it might be because of excitement. Dogs usually jump on their owner in excitement to meet you at your face. You can get rid of this type of jumping by properly training them to greet by sitting. Fear When you observe your dog start jumping upon you suddenly, something can be wrong. If your Golden Retriever is not used to jumping upon you, this abrupt jumping behavior can result from some fear or illness. You need to take your dog for a medical checkup in such a situation. Rewarding Behaviour Another common reason that encourages dogs to jump is getting rewards. If you reward them with food or anything they want when they jump on you, you need to change your behavior. Train them properly about getting food and reward in a seated position rather than jumping. But if your dog has grown up and still jumps up on people, it can be dangerous. You need to stop your adult dog from jumping up. Kids can get traumatized if a dog jumps upon them. Your dog's abrupt jump can disturb your body balance and hurt you. Fully grown Golden Retrievers can knock out kids, adults, and old, creating a terrible scenario. Discourage Their Jumping Behaviour If your dog jumps up on you in excitement, you should discourage his behavior. The best way to stop your Golden Retrievers from jumping upon you in excitement is to ignore them. They will stop jumping up on you when you do not give them attention or their desired response. Be patient while training your dog to stop jumping up on the people. If you reward or give food to your dog for this behavior, stop doing so. Make sure nobody in your vicinity gives attention and rewards your dog's negative behavior. Because even if a single person favours your dog's negative jumping behavior, the situation can worsen. Ask him to sit and then reward him due to the adoption of this inconsistent behavior. For example, food, toys, or anything you use to reward your dog upon jumping, start giving him on sitting. Many dogs are familiar with sitting, but no worries if your Golden Retriever is not. Ask him to sit every time he says hello to you and adore him for obeying you. Praise and treat your dog kindly when he sits peacefully. Rewarding and treating your dog with love and care is very necessary every time he follows your asked instructions. Be calm while meeting with your dog. Keep him away from distractions like doorbells and horns at first to suppress his excitement. Be patient and stay consistent to make your dog used to conflicting behavior. Never panic while training your dog, as it can do more worse than better. Never punish your dog upon jumping. Never throw your dog away if he jumps up on you, as it can hurt him. Never bring your knee in the chest to stop the dog from greeting you, as it can hurt you. Concluding Remarks Unlike other dogs, Golden Retrievers are special and need more attention as they stand by their owner like a faithful friend. You might be ignoring their jumps upon you because of such a lovely role in your life. But your Golden Retriever can hurt your loved ones. So teaching him good manners is very crucial. Training your dog properly not to jump upon people will give you the freedom of hanging with your family and friends in the company of your Golden Retriever. Train and enjoy your Golden Retriever company everywhere you want. Your neighbor stopped by for an unexpected visit, and as the back door opened, before you had time to act or even think, your visitor was on the floor. The culprit? Your well-meaning, but overly excitable golden retriever. When you brought home your cuddly ball of fluff, that excitability was pretty adorable, as was the jumping and licking that went along with it. Can you train your dog to tone it down and stop jumping up on people? Of course you can! Keep reading to find out how. They also jump up because they want to be closer to your face so they can smell you. Lastly, your dog jumps up because you never taught them what to do instead. As with most behavioral issues, the buck stops with you. Dogs who start out jumping on people as puppies and get told how cute they are, and encouraged to do so, will continue to jump up as adult dogs. That is, unless we teach them how to greet people properly. There are so many reasons why jumping up should not be tolerated. There are children smaller than your golden retriever that get easily knocked over. There are also children who are afraid of dogs. A dog who jumps could traumatize or hurt them. Your full-grown retriever could easily knock over a healthy adult, but you should be especially concerned with the elderly, infirm, and disabled who could suffer real harm if knocked down. Not only would you feel terrible, but you could also face a lawsuit. Most golden retrievers are saying hello in the only way they know how. Some dogs, however, jump up to express more than just an excited greeting. If your dog jumps up while growling or barking, they could be showing aggression, not excitement. It is not a behavior that can be taken lightly or treated yourself. Yes, it takes patience. Yes, it can be frustrating, but your dog truly wants to please you, and will learn this important skill if you are steadfast in your training. Here are four methods you can use to help you keep your dog from jumping up. First and Foremost — Remove the Reward To your dog, the obvious reward for jumping up is getting up-close-and-personal with you or the person they are greeting. Your dog wants your attention and jumping up is their way of demanding it. And they will do it again next time. Therefore, when your dog jumps, remove all attention, both positive or negative. Do not look at your dog, do not reach your hands out to push them away. Simply walk past or away from them, and go about your business. This may leave your dog wondering what happened. It may also encourage your dog to try new tactics. But only when your dog puts all four feet on the floor to greet you should you turn to them and offer up treats , pets, and calm praise. Do not offer up too much excitement, which may cause your dog to jump up again. If this happens, go back to ignoring your dog. Only four on the floor should earn any form attention from you! And we shall discuss a little later, you must do this every time, all the time. Never, not once, can you encourage or reward jumping. If you do, it will never end. Turn Aside from the Jump When your dog attempts to jump, get out of the way. When your dog jumps up, turn around, do not make eye contact, and fold your arms across your chest. Some dogs will try to nuzzle your hands and folding your arms removes that possibility. When they manage to keep four on the floor, you can initiate a calm greeting. This technique works well for dogs who need immediate feedback. Be sure to treat and praise them as soon as they have all four paws on the ground. Mark and reward the correct behavior. Leave The Room In some situations, you may be able to simply leave the room when your dog jumps up. First, say hello at the door. If your dog jumps up, turn around and walk out. Stay away for 30 seconds, then go back in and say hello. If your dog jumps again, repeat the procedure. They need an alternative behavior to replace the jumping. You need to teach what they should be doing instead. So teach your dog to sit when saying hello. A sit is a calm position and with their bum on the floor, they cannot possibly be jumping. So a reliable sit is the easiest alternative behavior to jumping. First be sure your dog knows the cue to sit reliably through all kinds of distractions. Practice sits in different locations until your dog will do it anywhere. Once your dog is sitting reliably, practice having them sit through common triggers that will signal a greeting — when the doorbell rings or when a car pulls into the driveway. Every single time your dog successfully sits, praise and treat them generously. Practice coming home with treats at the ready. When you walk in the door, ask for a sit. If your dog sits, reward them with delicious treats, kind words, and gentle petting. If your dog jumps up, immediately use one of the first three methods above. Before long, your golden retriever will be sitting every time they greet you. This is the hard part. Teaching your dog manners is hard work, but it will be all for naught if you and your dog are the only ones working at it. Therefore, extend your training to encompass your family and friends. In order for your dog to learn the rules, they must be consistent across the board for everyone in the household, as well as friends and visitors. If you are practicing sit for greeting, keep your dog on a long leash and be sure your friend backs away if your dog breaks the sit. You want to avoid any occurrence of your dog successfully jumping up. A long line enables you to do this. Strangers Can Help Too. Have your dog sit beside you and treat them lavishly as the person approaches to say hello. If your dog breaks a sit, the stranger must back away and ignore the dog. With you, all friends and even strangers doing the same thing and not rewarding jumping with any attention, before long your dog will learn they get longer hellos and a lot more treats and attention if they keep all four on the floor. This phenomenon is known as an extinction burst and it means your tactics are working. This post from examiner. Consider crating. Crating your dog can sometimes make them even more excited to meet visitors to your home. Perhaps let your dog hold a toy to greet people. Dogs who become quickly over-excited sometimes find it easier to hold a toy when greeting. It has a calming effect, something else to focus on. Like a pacifier with a baby. Keep a few toys by the door where you receive visitors and encourage your dog to grab a toy as soon as you or someone else enters your home. Stay calm yourself when greeting your dog. Excitement is contagious and excited dogs love to jump around. Be Patient. Your dog just wants to please you. Be consistent. And everybody has to work with this same rule: Family members, visitors and strangers. Shouting will only confuse your dog, and depending on their personality, they will either become afraid, or even more excited. Do not knee your dog in the chest. Many books and web articles suggest you raise your knee to block your dog when they jump. This can work, but we cannot condone this method. Please use the force free, positive methods above, not violence! Do not push your dog off you. And rewarded behaviors increase. So, no pushing! Do not punish your dog after they have jumped up. Your dog will not understand punishment after the fact. Instead, ignore unwanted behavior removing any reward and pile in with rewards for the behaviors you do want to see. But to have that wonderful companion dog, who you can take with you wherever you go, good manners are crucial. By taking the time to teach your dog to stay off people, you are paving the way for more outings, more socializations, and more fun. A dog who respects boundaries is a pleasure to be around, and a steadfast companion in every situation.

Moreover, in case your Labradoodle has any sensitivity, weight, allergy, or other health issues, the Purina Pro Plan product range has got you covered. So, if your Labradoodle is struggling with a food allergy, you might not have to switch to another brand altogether. Instead, you can switch the chicken formula for lamb or fish, for example. The same goes for grains. This makes it perfect for all Labradoodles weighing more than 70 pounds. Although the list is not short and has some rather tricky names listed, it does contain a lot of vitamins and minerals, and even added glucosamine, which is great for Labradoodles who are at a risk of developing joint problems like hip dysplasia. Labradoodle owners know how important a beautiful coat is! Dicalcium phosphate DCP has been linked to kidney stones and the calcification of soft tissue Contains soy, which may be difficult to digest, cause bloat and gas, and trigger allergies 2. Fromm Fromm has formulas for all stages of life, large and small breeds, for weight management, and offers grain-free and grain-inclusive variations. The main sources of protein are beef, chicken, turkey, duck, pork, salmon, tuna, lamb, goose, pheasant, quail, venison, rabbit, and whitefish. Chicken is listed as the first ingredient, but it also includes fish meal, duck, lamb, and chicken liver. This formula is grain-inclusive and uses whole grains like oat groats and barley. Likewise, other natural ingredients like flaxseed, alfalfa meal, and inulin provide additional fiber. Not only are the most important vitamins and minerals included, this dry dog food is formulated with prebiotics and probiotics. PawTree formulas are made from real ingredients and they offer a variety of different formulas, specializing in grain-free recipes, and formulas that are free from certain ingredients to minimize allergic reactions. Allergies and food sensitivities are a common concern for many Labradoodles, especially when it comes to certain proteins or even grains. Other highlights in this formula include apples, blueberries, coconut oil, salmon oil, and flaxseed. In addition to quality animal proteins and plants, this dry kibble also contains added vitamins, minerals, and even prebiotics for good tummy health. In fact, this recipe has been designed for reduced stool volume and also to keep those smelly farts at bay. Pros First ingredient listed is real duck. Packed with nutritious ingredients that are rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. Perfect for Labradoodles who are allergic to chicken and fish. Ideal for overweight Doods. Supports good skin and coat health. Naturally occurring glucosamine helps support the joints. Designed to be easily digestible. No corn, wheat, soy, poultry by-products, or artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives. Cons None! Victor Victor Pet Food has formulas suitable for all life stages. Additionally, they offer special formulas for joint health, weight management and performance, and grain-free and high-protein formulas. For some Labradoodles, the food sensitivity, digestion, weight management, and joint support formulas might be beneficial. Royal Canin Royal Canin offers formulas that many Labradoodle owners might find useful like special food for large breeds, formulas for food sensitivities, weight management, and digestive health. All of which Labradoodles are at risk of. However, as Labradoodles tend to inherit the health issues of both Labs and Poodles, this option might work well for your Labradoodle. Diamond As with other brands, Diamond offers a variety of dog food options for different needs. Labradoodle owners might find their formulas for weight management or sensitivity issues helpful. It contains a decent amount of fiber that helps with proper digestion, as do added probiotics. The key ingredients in raw dog food diets are: muscle meats, organ meats like liver, kidney, spleen, brain, sweetbreads, whole, powdered or meaty bones, raw eggs, dog-friendly fruit and vegetables, and sometimes dairy, like yogurt. Kirkland Kirkland is another popular dog food brand that Labradoodle parents love. It offers formulas for all life stages, weight management, and also grain-free and organic options. However, they do have other formulas with different protein sources Ingredients To Avoid In Labradoodle Dog Food You already might know that there are ingredients your Labradoodle should never eat. Naturally, responsible dog food brands do not include these ingredients, anyway. Related Content. Fruits and vegetables Labradoodles can eat Dairy If your Labradoodle is not lactose intolerant, he can eat some dairy foods in moderation. Dairy foods provide protein, calcium, vitamin D, A, B12, zinc, magnesium, and selenium. They build strong bones, reduce the risk of diabetes, and may improve heart health. Experimenting with small amounts of dairy foods is best to see what your dog can handle. Some dogs have trouble digesting milk but can enjoy small pieces of cheese or a blob or two of plain yogurt. My dog loves small chunks of cheese but cannot tolerate even a small spoonful of heavy cream — although she is okay with some milk. World of Dogz Commercial Dog Food Aside from the foods listed above, you can also feed your Labradoodle commercial dog food. Labradoodles can eat dry, wet, semi-dry food technically wet, too , raw, dehydrated, or freeze-dried food. However, you must be careful not to select a food package for a different breed with macro nutritional requirements other than Labradoodles. The most remarkable thing about commercial dog food is that it is far less expensive than homemade dog food and takes much less time to prepare, store, and feed. Labradoodles cannot eat chocolate, macadamia nuts, black walnuts, onion, garlic, grapes, or avocado. Standard market-packed sardines are the safest fish for dogs. Even onion powder in a broth can have this effect. Garlic Garlic can also make your dog anemic. Make sure any food you prepare contains no garlic flavor. Chocolate Theobromine and caffeine in chocolate and chocolate-adjacent products are toxic to dogs. Ensure you choose an organic brand. Nuts Some nuts can lead to weakness, vomiting, and tremors. Macadamia and black walnuts are the worst at this. Other varieties are also too high in fat. Avocado The avocado skin can result in vomiting and diarrhea, so your Labradoodle should be kept away from this fruit. Your dog can OD on alcohol. Sugar Dogs love sweet treats, but if you feed a sugar-rich diet, they will get fat. Yeast Dough If you bake bread at home, keep your dog away from unbaked dough. It can ferment in the stomach causing alcohol toxicosis, and the yeast can rise in the gut, causing a severe blockage. The first is to sit down and curate a Labradoodle diet that dodges the above. The second is to simply opt for packaged dog food. Specific fruits can be toxic to your Labradoodle — especially grapes and starfruit. You can feed your dog veggies — yet garlic and onion can be problematic. You can provide your dog fish — but not if it is completely raw. However, organic food is healthier than extruded kibble cooked at high temperatures which reduces its nutritional value. On the other hand, packaged dog food is easy to get, feed, and store. Wet Dog Food If your Labradoodle turns his nose up at dry kibble, you can try wet dog food as it contains much higher moisture content than dry food. Some larger dogs like it, whereas others prefer a bit of crunch. Take note, though, that canned wet food can be expensive for dogs the size of Labradoodles, as you will need to provide much more. Ensure you check the protein content, as wet food contains a lot of water. Dry and Wet Mix This is one of the most widely preferred Labradoodle food types, and you get the best of both worlds. Most Doodles who dislike dry or wet food like a wet and dry mix. Adding a few scoops of wet food to dry food changes the texture and palatability of the food, making it enticing to your dog. You can also add water to dry dog food making it easier to digest and more appetizing, especially if you have a fussy eater or a dog with general appetite loss due to illness. This gives your dog added variety — but remember to adjust the calories accordingly. You may also consider semi-moist dog food. You can use one of countless dog chow recipes to produce homemade dog food. Some dog owners enjoy home cooking for their dogs as it gives them complete control of what they feed them. However, preparing a homemade diet can also be expensive and is very time-consuming. Check out the directory of certified vet nutritionists from the American College of Veterinary Nutrition to help you find one in your area. Raw Dog Food Of course, if you grasp the idea of feeding chow made from leftover meat, you can always get your Labradoodle a prime Wagyu steak. A raw food diet consists of raw meat and organs mixed in — and raw bones. This method of feeding your dog has grown in popularity in recent years. You can prepare a raw diet at home, similar to a home-cooked meal except raw , or buy pre-prepared complete and balanced raw food, which is more convenient. While weighing up your options, you might want to consider the price of feeding a raw diet. Dehydrated Dog Food Dehydrated dog food also known as air-dried is often confused with dry dog food because it is technically dry. However, you must add water to get the food into the shape it is intended to be served. A dehydrated doggy diet is a healthy and minimally processed feeding option as it uses a low-heat and gentle drying method. It combines the convenience of dry food with the nutritional benefits of raw. It is easier to store and far more portable, but it can be costly. Freeze-Dried Dog Food Freeze-dried dog food is prepared at the factory and brought into its wet form, then freeze-dried into solids that dissolve in the water. It is dehydrated at a lower temperature. Once the food is put in a sealed package, it can take years to degrade because there is no moisture for microorganisms to survive. When you buy freeze-dried dog food, it is still raw. For example, a Labrador mixed with a Standard Poodle will need far more food than a much smaller Lab mixed with a Toy Poodle. A smaller adult female needs 1. A Labradoodle puppy needs 12 — 16 ounces of food per day divided into 3 meals initially and then 2 meals at 6 months old. Labradoodles tend to control their weight pretty well. However, some dogs may be food-motivated and greedy, especially if they carry the POMC mutated gene , which is responsible for an increased appetite in Labradors. Labradoodle Feeding Schedule You should consider the energy your dog expends during the day when creating a healthy feeding schedule for them. Mini Labradoodles, for example, will burn off energy more quickly than the standard variety. However, it is advised to offer one cup of dry dog food or its equivalent and then wait eight hours before feeding another cup to avoid canine bloat. When your Labradoodle is a puppy, you must split his intake into 3 or 4 meals. Feeding your pup can be slightly complicated because of your, and not his, schedule. Labradoodle Puppy Meal Plan Puppies need feeding more often, as they need extra calories for growth and to satisfy their energy requirements. Labradoodle puppies should be fed 4 meals a day up to 3 months of age, 3 meals a day up to 6 months of age, and 2 meals a day from 6 months to adulthood. Age of Labradoodle. A diet that meets these life-stage needs is essential for proper development and health maintenance. Labradoodle puppies. They also need a balanced calcium and phosphorus diet for healthy bone growth. Feeding high-quality puppy food formulated explicitly for Labradoodles puppies can help ensure they receive the necessary nutrients during this crucial developmental stage. Adult Labradoodles. Require a diet that is moderate in calories and protein to maintain their weight and prevent obesity. They also need a balanced diet of carbohydrates, fats, and proteins to support their overall health and energy needs. You must slowly transition your dog to an adult recipe at one year old. Senior Labradoodles. Senior dogs may require a diet lower in calories and fat to maintain a healthy weight and higher fiber to support digestive health. Senior dog foods often contain joint supplements to help mobility and joint health. At around 8 or 9, you should slowly transition your Labradoodle to senior food. Vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants are important to boost their weakening immune system. Labradoodles are a hybrid breed that combines the traits of a Labrador Retriever and a Poodle. They are known for their high energy levels and require regular exercise to stay healthy and happy. Feeding a Labradoodle a balanced diet that meets its nutritional needs will ensure it has the necessary energy for physical activities. If a Labradoodle is not receiving adequate nutrition or is being overfed, it may experience weight gain or become lethargic, which can decrease its activity level. Conversely, if a Labradoodle is not consuming enough food or getting the proper nutrients, it may lack the energy required for vigorous exercise. By providing the right amount of nutritious food, owners can help maintain an optimal activity level in their Labradoodles and promote their overall well-being. Although certain health issues that Labradoodles may experience are congenital and beyond our control, others can be influenced by environmental and lifestyle factors, such as diet. Some of the most common health issues faced by Labradoodles include the following: Food allergies. Certain ingredients in their food can cause allergies in Labradoodles. Food allergies in Labradoodles may present as dry, itchy skin, ears, or paws. However, unlike allergies, food intolerances do not involve the immune system but can lead to vomiting or diarrhea. Hip dysplasia. Some dogs show signs of pain and lameness. Elbow dysplasia. This can lead to painful lameness. It can cause mild or severe seizures. Progressive retinal atrophy PRA. This is a family of eye diseases that involves the gradual deterioration of the retina. Early in the disease, dogs become night-blind; as the disease progresses, they also lose their daytime vision. Sebaceous adenitis SA. This serious skin disease destroys the sebaceous glands that produce the skin and coat essential oils. This is a genetic bleeding disorder similar to hemophilia in people. It occurs in poodles and can show up in doodle hybrids. This thyroid gland disorder is thought to cause conditions such as epilepsy, alopecia hair loss , obesity, lethargy, hyperpigmentation, pyoderma, and other skin conditions. Heart disease. It can cause underlying conditions such as heart valve degeneration, irregular heart rate and rhythm arrhythmia , and dilated cardiomyopathy DCM. Labradoodle-Specific Dog Food Qualities To Look For Providing Labradoodles with a well-balanced and nutritious diet and preventative supplementation, as advised by your veterinarian, is crucial in maintaining their health and preventing potential health issues that may arise from poor nutrition. Here are the key qualities to look for in dog food for Labradoodles. Avoid common allergies. Because Labradoodles can develop allergies or food intolerances, we highly recommend conducting an at-home dog allergy test like the 5Strands kit. This particular kit can test for up to ingredients and determine which ones may cause food intolerance in your dog. Once you receive the results, you can use the list to avoid dog food formulas that contain potential allergens. Labradoodles can have sensitive digestive systems. Look for a dog food that adds probiotics to its formula. Dog probiotics support a healthy digestive system and immune system. Labradoodles can be prone to digestive issues, so look for dog food that is minimally processed, such as fresh dog food or homemade dog food for Labradoodles. Lower-quality kibble may contain fillers, artificial preservatives, and other ingredients that can be harder to digest and may cause digestive upset in some dogs. Skin and coat support. These nutrients help to maintain the health of the skin and coat. Joint support. Foods with added supplements such as glucosamine and chondroitin can help support joint health, which is crucial for breeds prone to hip and elbow dysplasia. Adrenal support. Choose a high-quality, balanced diet that provides all the necessary nutrients, and avoid foods with high potassium levels, as these can exacerbate symptoms. Low glycemic index. Foods with a low glycemic index can help manage conditions like epilepsy. They can help to avoid sudden spikes in blood sugar levels that can trigger seizures. Eye health support. A diet rich in antioxidants, including vitamins A, C, and E, and certain carotenoids like lutein and zeaxanthin can support overall eye health. Heart health. For heart conditions, food should be low in sodium and rich in taurine and L-carnitine to support heart function. Omega-3 fatty acids may also support heart health. Hypothyroidism management. Some research suggests that kelp and other seaweeds, rich in iodine, can support thyroid health. Chapter 2: The Reviews. Labradoodles are unique because they come in a variety of sizes and shapes. In general, Labradoodles need protein-rich foods that contain essential fatty acids like omega-3s. These will help keep their coats shiny and their energy levels high. Additionally, Labradoodles need glucosamine to help support healthy joints, as well as probiotics for digestion and immunity. Proteins Labradoodles require a lot of protein in their diets. Look for foods that have high-quality sources of animal proteins such as chicken, fish, and lamb. Look for foods that contain healthy sources of fats, such as fish oil and flaxseed. Carbohydrates When shopping for food for your Labradoodle, you want to look for foods with complex carbohydrates such as sweet potatoes, brown rice, and oats. These will provide your pup with sustained energy throughout the day. Look for foods that contain essential vitamins and minerals such as Vitamin E, iron, zinc, and B Vitamins. These will help keep their immune systems strong and give them the energy they need. Overall, when shopping for the best food for Labradoodles, you want to look for proteins, healthy fats, complex carbohydrates, and essential vitamins and minerals. By doing this, your pup will get all of the nutrition he or she needs to stay happy and healthy! What Ingredients Should You Avoid? When it comes to dog food, you want to make sure you avoid ingredients like corn, wheat, soy, and artificial preservatives. These can all be difficult for your pup to digest and may cause allergies or stomach issues. Additionally, you want to make sure you avoid any food that contains by-products or fillers as these are not nutritious and could potentially be harmful. Labradoodles can suffer from a variety of health issues, including joint pain, allergies, and skin irritations. Depending on the issue your pup is facing, you may want to look for foods that are specifically formulated to address these problems. Joint Pain If your pup is suffering from joint pain, look for foods that contain glucosamine and chondroitin. These are natural supplements that help to lubricate the joint and reduce inflammation. Skin Irritations If your pup is suffering from skin irritations, look for foods that contain omega-3 fatty acids. These essential fats help keep the skin hydrated and can reduce inflammation. Sensitive Stomachs If your pup has a sensitive stomach, look for foods that are easy to digest and have limited ingredients. This will help minimize the chances of any digestive issues or allergies. Ultimately, finding the right food for your Labradoodle is an important part of keeping them healthy and happy. By following these tips and understanding their nutritional needs, you can ensure your pup is getting all of the nutrition they need to live a long and healthy life! Best Labradoodle Puppy Food When it comes to the best dog food for labradoodle puppies, you want to look for something that provides high-quality proteins and carbohydrates. These ingredients will help support healthy development and provide your pup with all of the nutrition they need. Best Labradoodle Adult Food When looking for adult food, you want to look for something with protein and carbohydrates as the primary ingredients. Additionally, make sure the food contains essential vitamins and minerals as well as omega-3 fatty acids. Orijen Puppy Food Orijen puppy food is one of the best options on the market. It is made with high-quality proteins and carbohydrates, as well as essential vitamins and minerals. Is kibble, cans, raw or homemade food better? Swapping Puppy Food Brands Moving into his or her new home is a challenging and exciting time for your Labradoodle puppy. Keep feeding what your pup is used to for at least two weeks. Then, slowly start mixing in the new food you have chosen for your pup. Labradoodle Puppy Diets Puppies have lots of growing to do. This means that they need more of certain minerals and nutrients for example calcium and phosphorus for bone growth. Your labradoodle pup will also need a higher amount of good quality protein. This is definitely not the case, though. This—among other things—can cause joint problems, such as hip dysplasia. Labradoodles are a cross between two breeds that are both already at high risk of developing hip dysplasia. The most important thing of all is to avoid overfeeding a Labradoodle puppy, as we will see later in this article. This is called hypoglycemia. Generally, a feeding schedule for your Labradoodle pup can look like this: 2 — 4 months: 4 meals daily 4 — 6 months: 3 meals daily 6 — 8 months: 2 — 3 meals daily Older than 8 months: 2 meals daily. Just make sure to divide the total daily amount onto multiple feedings. You can make slight adjustments to these amounts if your pup is looking a little slim or chunky. The number of calories your pup needs will also change as he or she gets older and heavier. There are a couple of different options out there. Commercial dog foods offer complete and balanced nutrition for your growing pup — this means that they have all the right nutrients in all the right amounts and ratios. If a puppy is fed an inappropriate diet, this could lead to long-lasting growth defects or other malnutrition diseases. Feeding a Labradoodle Puppy Kibble Kibble is the most popular type of dog food out there. There are only two things you need to pay attention to when choosing kibble: It should be designed specifically for puppies, and it should be high-quality. Research shows that higher-priced dog foods tend to have higher nutrient digestibility than lower-priced kibble — so it might be worth spending a bit more. Choose a kibble that contains a meat protein source as the first ingredient, and steer clear of ingredients like corn, soy, and cereals. Due to its high water content, the aromas and taste of the meat unfold better, making wet food the most palatable food there is. This comes at a bit of a cost, though: Wet food tends to be more expensive than kibble, and of course it spoils more easily. To get the best of both worlds of commercial dog foods, you can combine or alternate between kibble and wet food. The BARF diet consists of lots of raw meat and bones, as well as some veg and fruit. Supporters of raw feeding think that it will make your dog healthier, although there is no solid evidence for this yet. Raw meats are often contaminated with bacteria such as Salmonella or Campylobacter. These bacteria could potentially cause diseases in your pup. However, this is extremely rare, as the digestive tract most dogs can handle these bugs just fine. This means that there is a lot less danger of bacterial infections from raw meats. Keep in mind that cooking for a dog is not the same as cooking for yourself. Avoid spices, onions, garlic, cooking oils, and too much salt. These are dogs that will always want more food and are prone to obesity. It can help to space out meals or add one or two feedings a day if your dog is constantly hungry. Another option is to make your dog work for small amounts of food throughout the day — be it with puppy training, food balls, or puzzles. The possibilities are endless. There is so much to decide on, starting with the quantities! The Labradoodle is a hybrid dog cross with a Labrador retriever and a poodle. But since Poodles are bred in three sizes and can weigh anywhere from 4 to 70 pounds. So you may not be sure yet how big your little Labradoodle puppy will eventually grow. Labradoodle Puppy Feeding Timeline For young puppies under 6 months old, we recommend four daily feedings spaced at equal intervals throughout the day. After this you can move to three feedings around a year old. Protein sources should occupy the first few ingredients. Organic ingredients are a plus. Avoid fillers, by-products, artificial ingredients or sweeteners. You may also want to talk with your veterinarian about starting your puppy on a grain-free diet with one of these high-quality and popular puppy foods. Added antioxidants, DHA, superfoods and probiotics nourish your growing puppy. This food is free from known allergens such as grain and corn. It also has plenty of nutrients, vitamins and minerals, including DHA for overall healthy development. This food is free from artificial ingredients, fillers and preservatives. Best Wet Puppy Food for Labradoodles The best puppy food for Labradoodles will often be a dry kibble, but it can be a good idea to keep a high-quality wet puppy food on hand as well. It is more hydrating and can be more palatable too. It is a chunk stew that is completely wheat-free. So, it makes our list of best puppy food for Labradoodles. It can also be used as as a kibble topper or treat supplement with extra DHA, vitamins and minerals. Best Dog Food for Labradoodle Puppy If you are concerned about transitioning your Labradoodle puppy to adult dog food, you may find that the best puppy food for Labradoodles is one where the manufacturer also makes an adult food. This can make transitions much easier. One of these options may be the best puppy food for Labradoodle dogs at your home. As they grow you will move from four meals per day at 8 weeks old, to just one or two in adulthood. And you will want to use as much of their daily kibble as you can in training. Helping to strengthen the bond between you, as well as to teaching them which behaviors you want to see in your home. Feeding a Labradoodle Puppy When it comes to feeding your new Labradoodle puppy there are plenty of options to choose between and a number of things to consider. Puppies grow up fast. The first thing to keep in mind is that puppies have different dietary needs to adult dogs. Getting too much of some nutrients, and not enough of others can lead to developmental problems. Growing pups digest food and absorb nutrients differently than adult dogs too. Their gastrointestinal system also works much faster than that of an adult dog. Puppy Nutrient Requirements Puppies need more calories than adult dogs, relative to their size. In fact, they need about twice as many calories in relation to their body weight compared to that of a full grown Labradoodle. Compared to mature dogs, puppies also need: more protein to support growing muscle more fat to fuel growth and a different mineral balance to aid in the rapid development of their bones. For example, one study showed that puppies fed a low phosphorus diet suffer from impaired appetite and growth, diminished skin and fur quality, and a disturbed musculoskeletal system. Too much calcium can also negatively affect bone development, by accelerating it. This is a serious joint condition that leads to painful arthritis and lameness. The smaller and younger your puppy is, the more often they need to eat, since their stomachs are too small for big portions. Labradoodle puppies that are 4 months or younger should have their food split into 4 meals a day. When they reach 4 and 6 months old this can be reduced to 3 meals. Knowing how much to feed your Labradoodle puppy can be tricky. So the feeding charts on the packaging are a good place to start. This basic pet calorie calculator can help determine how many calories a puppy needs. Overfeeding Labradoodle Puppies Canine obesity is a big problem for many dogs and the Labradoodle is no exception. Some Labrador Retrievers are known to have a genetic mutation that causes them to have an insatiable appetite. But there are plenty of genetically normal dogs who will always want more food. If your puppy is constantly hungry you can try giving him smaller, more frequent meals. In fact, for training purposes we recommend using as much of each of the meals rations as you can as training treats between meals. These days there are a lot of brands vying for space in the dog food market. So deciding what to feed your Labradoodle puppy might be the most difficult question of them all. Puppies that are 8 to 12 weeks old should continue eating the same food they were eating at the breeders. If you want to change their food, wait until they are fully settled at home. Then transition gradually to a different diet to avoid causing an upset tummy. You can do it over the course of a week, like this: Feed 1 part new food to 3 parts old food on the first two days. Equal parts old food and new food on days three and four. And three parts new food to one part old food for two more days after that. Feeding a Labradoodle Puppy Dry Food Most puppy parents choose one of the many commercial dry puppy foods available. There are many reasons why these diets also known as kibbles are so popular. They are.

Hey everyone! Exciting news.NO applications accepted by anyone under the age of 25 please parent or guardian must apply and you MUST have dog experience. Meet Armani! Oh this is a super cool dog - truly rare and spectacular! He came from a family who decided to give him to a friend who then dumped him at a shelter because they were moving to a place that only allowed small pets - yea that happens and it is very sad. He supposedly came from a breeder too but we do not DNA test. He is heartworm negative and neutered and vaccinated too! So smart and would love to go to a doggy class to learn more cool skills. Great for an active or laid back family who wants not just a super model but a gorgeous lover. Just a super cool mix and sooo handsome and gentle. Wants to love u and for u to love him badly! His rescue reports, "This guy is just a gem of a dog. He is just beyond the best. I wish my own dog was as great as this guy! He is so majestic - tall handsome and not a big barker. Loves sitting regally on his dog bed as if a king on a throne. What a love!!! Its adoption process includes an application and an interview. The organization does not operate a facility or physical location. Poodles and Poodle mixes that have been surrendered by owners or brought in from shelters are placed in foster homes and cared for there until they find their forever home. Need to Know Many nationally focused rescues rely on foster homes or a foster-to-adopt model to place dogs. Several have regional coordinators who can work with you to help find a suitable dog to adopt. In addition to Poodles, they also find homes for several other breeds. Before adoptable dogs go to their forever homes, this organization rehabilitates any behavioral problems the pup may have. This helps make sure every dog has the best chance to never be surrendered again. The organization rescues abandoned Poodles, provides medical care, and ensures dogs are placed in loving homes that match their needs. Everyone in the family must be a part of the adoption process for your application to be approved. Need to Know If you choose a Standard Poodle, or a Poodle mix the size of a standard, Florida Poodle Rescue requires your yard to have a 6-foot fence prior to adoption. Their fee varies and is based on the Poodle's age, size, and needs. Poodles can be adopted if you live within a mile radius of Elk River, Minnesota. Michigan Standard Poodle Rescue Michigan Standard Poodle Rescue is not restricted to finding forever homes in its home state, but also in neighboring states. Dogs aren't adopted on a first-come, first-serve basis, but rather on a case-by-case basis connecting the right dog with the home. This organization isn't restricted to purebred Standard Poodles. They also have Poodle mixes available; however, most dogs are about the same size as the Standard. Quick Tip Looking through the adopted dogs can show you the approximate size and variety of breeds available with this organization. They provide medical care, behavioral assessment, and foster care to Poodles until they find a perfect home. A home visit is required for final approval of your application and will be done before your adoption is complete with this organization. Are you InTheKnow? Sign up for our newsletter featuring all the latest stories and products we love. Invalid email I agree to receive email communications from LoveToKnow. NCPR also provides education on Poodle care and behavior, offering you a supportive hand before, during, and after adoption. Looking through its available dogs, you will see Poodles of all sizes, along with mixes. You can submit an interest form for a volunteer to reach out to you regarding which dog would fit best with your family. Things to Think About When Considering Standard Poodle Adoption If you are contemplating Standard Poodle adoption, you owe it to yourself and your potential new companion to understand this breed's needs. Standards are generally happy, outgoing, and intelligent pets, but they also require a bit more maintenance than the average dog. These Dogs Need Exercise: Standard Poodles are fairly large dogs with a great deal of energy to spare. They need daily exercise and mental stimulation to be happy. Poodles Must Be Groomed: Poodle hair grows continually throughout these dogs' lives. In addition to home grooming, plan to take them to a professional regularly. There are a ton of great rescue groups active on social media, including Facebook, but not all are reliable. Watch for these traits to determine if a group is focused on rescue and has a good reputation. Transparency: Make sure the organization is transparent. Legitimate rescues openly share information about operations, including the adoption process, medical treatments provided, and the animal's living conditions. Check nonprofit status: Check if the organization is registered as a non-profit and has a clear, reputable record. Watch out for too many purebred dogs: Be wary of rescues that always have a high number of popular or purebred dogs available. It could be a puppy mill disguised as a rescue. Outrageous fees: Out of the ordinary adoption fees without an explanation, like past medical expenses, could be a red flag. Check reviews and comments: Always research reviews, look for recommendations, and watch for warnings. Maybe someone had to move, the dog's owner passed away, or the dog has a health issue. Don't hesitate to ask why the dog is up for adoption and what steps they have taken to to correct or treat any issues the dog might have. A reputable shelter won't hesitate to share this info. Taking the time to sort these issues out means you have a better chance of finding the right dog for you. Such a very good girl! This is a very soft, gentle, easy going, loving apricot Standard Poodle who was born May 10, .Lady is a friendly and a Velcro type of Poodle who greatly enjoys following me and my husband around while being a part of our family. When she looks at you, her eyes will search your soul. Going for a walk and meeting other people OR going for a car ride is on the TOP of her list of fun things this girl just loves to do. Wherever we go, Lady attracts attention as she just wants to be loved and hugged by everyone. She is a quiet Poodle, but she will bark when one of our other Poodles barks. Did you know that Poodles were bred for hunting? Lady is just fine with other old, easy-going large dogs like our 10 year old Standard Poodle Lola but completely ignores small dogs. This is a very rare opportunity for the right family as we all know that a good Standard Poodle is hard to find. With the introduction of Doodles, sadly the quality Standard Poodles are becoming harder to find. Why Doodle when you can Poodle? Her simple dental cleaning and a recheck on her infected ears has been setup for August 30th. This fee helps to pay for all of her vet work and includes a leash, collar, a bag of quality dog food, a 10 gallon dog food container, treats, a few dog toys in a cute toy box, a new blanket and her new big soft doggie bed along with lots of good information to help your Poodle adoption move forward on the right paw! We are 5-month-old Standard Poodles weighing about lbs. While I love to play with my foster siblings, I really just want calm space to hang out with my humans and other fur friends. I wake and jump into bed to give my foster parents good morning snuggles! I enjoy a light morning snack and spend the rest of the day napping and hanging out with the humans while they work. After work, all bets are off, and I make sure to get all the puppy zoomies out. My leash training is going well, but I often try to chase the leaves and get distracted by unfamiliar sights and smells. I love to go outside to play, chew on a stick or take a walk. I also enjoy down time with humans to cuddle and get lots of belly rubs. I start my day at am, go potty, then breakfast. After I like going outside to chase squirrels and play. I then have dinner around pm and in my crate by 10pm for bed. I love learning tricks and am very food motivated! I also like to try and outsmart my foster parents when they hide my treats or sticks, I bring inside. I am very curious and love to explore, play, eat, and cuddle. Now that I am older, I can make it through the night without any potty accidents but I need to go outside as soon as I am up, usually around 7am. I eat breakfast then it's right back outside for my next potty break! I like to have a chew bone and play for a while, then naps. I like to sit on the couch next to my foster mom, or lay on my back sprawled out on the floor. I love going for walks and am learning to not pull. I bark a little at other dogs but I am very dog and people friendly. Nights are pretty low key, I may play a little before bed time, where I prefer to sleep next to my foster parent's bed. I love to cuddle if you'll allow me up too! Since I am still a puppy, I need reinforcements with potty training, proper leash walking, and learning what and what not to chew on. I am just a super sweet girl and can't wait to share my love with you!

These little dogs are like no other and make excellent pets! This article will introduce you to the delightful and adorable adventures that come with owning a 3 week old Frenchie. From potty training to teething, the French Bulldog puppy can bring you and your family lots of joy and fun. What is a French Bulldog? A French Bulldog is a unique breed of small dog that has its origins in France. It is a cross between a bulldog and a terrier, and it has a cute, compact-sized body and wide-set ears that give it a distinct look. French Bulldogs are known for their gentle and affectionate personalities, and they are often described as being incredibly loyal and loving to their owners. As a result, French Bulldogs make excellent pets for busy owners or those with limited space. When it comes to taking care of a French Bulldog, there are a few things to keep in mind. To start off, French Bulldogs require regular grooming, as their coat needs to be brushed and clipped in order to remain healthy. French Bulldogs have a tendency to gain weight if they are not regularly exercised. To keep them healthy, owners should make sure to give their Frenchies regular walks and access to plenty of playtime. Training is essential when it comes to French Bulldogs. They can be difficult to potty train, so owners should start early and be consistent with their training. Socialization is also important, as it helps Frenchies learn to interact with other dogs and people. With the right training and care, French Bulldogs can be happy, healthy and lovable companions. Overview of the Article This article presents an opportunity to learn more about a 3-week-old French Bulldog. Get ready to embark on a journey of puppies and cuteness! This can help your pup develop strong relationships with family and friends. Puppies are curious and energetic, and it is important to provide them with the right environment to learn and grow. First and foremost, potty training is key. Although puppies are not fully housebroken at three weeks, they can begin to learn the basics with regularity and consistency. Use a designated spot outside for bathroom breaks and reward your puppy when they use it. Also keep in mind that puppies need to relieve themselves often, so make sure they are getting plenty of opportunities. Socialization and interaction are also important during the first few weeks. Introducing your pup to other people, animals, and environments is essential for their development. Make sure to have plenty of playtime and positive exposure for your pup. Teething can cause discomfort, so provide plenty of chew toys for your pup to keep them occupied and distracted. By providing your pup with regular potty breaks, plenty of socialization and interaction, and the proper chew toys, you can ensure that their adorable adventures are a success. Life of a Puppy Life of a Puppy can be a lot of fun. You need to be prepared to spend a lot of time playing and socializing with your pup to help them grow into a well-adjusted dog. This includes regular exercise and playtime, as well as introducing them to strange sounds, surfaces, and people. With the right amount of love, patience, and positive reinforcement, your puppy will quickly become a beloved part of the family. Adorable Quirks French Bulldog puppies are full of quirks that make them so lovable! Little things like their snorts and snuffles, their love for cuddling and belly rubs, and their enthusiasm for playing with toys are just some of the adorable quirks that will make you smile. Make sure to use positive reinforcement when they show good behavior. Make sure to also give them plenty of opportunities to explore and learn. Potty Training Potty training a French Bulldog can seem like a daunting task for many. With a bit of patience, consistency and positive reinforcement, your French Bulldog will be potty trained in no time. The key thing to remember when potty training any puppy is to stay consistent. Establish a set schedule and stick to it. Take your puppy out every two to three hours, especially after meals and naps. When you take your French Bulldog outside, lead them to the designated potty spot and give them plenty of time to go. Be sure to reward them with praise and a treat each time they go in the right spot. If your puppy has an accident inside, never scold them. Clean it up and figure out what was going wrong. Add a few potty pads or newspapers to the area and help your puppy understand that it is an acceptable place to go. If your puppy is having a difficult time, it may be helpful to enlist the help of a trainer to give you a few pointers. With just a few small changes, your puppy will be potty trained in no time! Start as soon as possible introducing them to as many other dogs and people as possible. Introduce them to different environments, including parks, pet stores, and other places you would typically take a pup. Allow them to get comfortable with strangers, different sounds, and new experiences. Allow your pup to interact with other people and other dogs. This will help them become used to different people and dogs so they will be comfortable in many social settings. Be sure to reward your pup with lots of praise, petting, and treats when they behave well around others. A positive reinforcement system helps your pup understand what behaviors you want them to learn and repeat. Make sure to provide a safe environment for your pup, as new experiences can be overwhelming. If you notice your pup is becoming stressed or anxious, take a break and provide them some comforting reassurance. Start with a few commands and add more as they master the basics. Training will help your pup understand that certain behaviors are expected from them. Your pup will learn quickly with consistent, positive reinforcement. Through socialization and training, your French Bulldog will grow into a well-behaved, confident pooch. During teething, your pup may experience pain and discomfort, and will likely become more active, chew anything he can find, and salivate more than usual. To help your pup through the teething process, provide him with appropriate chew toys and offer him plenty of praise and rewards for chewing on them. You should also keep an eye out for any signs of tooth or gum problems, such as redness or swelling, and take your pup to the vet if you notice these symptoms. Try to avoid giving your pup human food or treats during teething, as this can lead to indigestion or other gastrointestinal issues. With your help, teething can be a positive and enjoyable experience for you and your pup. Post Views: .Home » Blog » What happens with your Frenchie in their first few weeks What happens with your Frenchie in their first few weeks You certainly want to know about every minute of your sweet puppy. Last year we did a documentary about our breeding program in which we showed where our Frenchies live and we also wrote about how our program has grown over the years. In this article, we share with you how we help our little puppies on the TomKings Puppies farm, from the first moments of their lives until we find a forever loving family for them. The vet checks if everything is fine and we take them home. The average birth weight of a Frenchie is 0. Their size strongly depends on the size of the litter; when there are a fewer of them they can be as big as a two-week-old puppy from an other litter. Newborn puppies are deaf and blind and absolutely helpless so we are here to assist their mother to nurture them. In the first two weeks They are breastfed every 3 hours, and then their mom stimulates them to pee and poo. Not all mothers are eager to do this, in which case we assist them with a dam, warm cotton towel. The puppies spend the rest of their time sleeping they often seem to be dreaming! Subscribe to our weekly blog newsletter: Subscribe to our blog newsletter! First name Email They are so cute as they love to huddle together, but we also keep them warm with an external source like an infra lamp. As the puppies are very small, there is a threat that the mom accidentally smothers one or more of them. In the first 4 weeks We make strict precautions to keep the newborn babies sterile to avoid the risk of them being infected. They sleep in the house with us, and only a small circle of carers are allowed to touch them who use lots of hands sanitizing. As the mother has less and less milk we gradually switch to give them milk from a bottle and then crushed food. The puppies open their eyes when they are days old, and then they are able to hear — a whole new world opens up for them. At the age of weeks, the little explorers start crawling and then the first few shaky steps. At this stage, they are already very playful and start love-biting each other.