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Puppies begin biting very early on in life. Just like human babies, it is common for them to chew on objects during the teething stage to reduce discomfort. Furthermore, many dogs prefer using their mouths rather than their paws for manipulating objects. Once again, this behavior begins in puppyhood as young pooches start to explore their world. Puppy biting may be cute at the beginning, but as your pup grows, these little nips can turn into painful bites. Thus, the puppy-raising experience will generally include that one moment when Fido playfully bites down on a finger and draws blood. Needless to say, this is not a behavior we humans want to have continue, especially not into adulthood. Want to learn how to get a puppy to stop biting? Here are the steps to take to stop puppy nipping. Inhibit the Biting The first step for how to get your puppy to stop biting is to inhibit the behavior. It is totally normal for puppies to mouth each other when they play. This mouthing, however, can quickly turn into a bite. When it does, the puppy on the receiving end will yelp, and this sound startles the puppy doing the biting, thus making him release. Humans can exploit this behavior to stop puppy nipping and teach your pup how much mouthing is acceptable. When a puppy latches onto your hand or finger too hard, let your hand go limp and imitate that yelping sound. When the puppy releases, ignore her for 10 to 20 seconds and then resume play. The goal here is to teach the puppy that gentle play continues and rough play stops. Eventually, you should be able to teach her that mouthing without biting down is OK but that anything more than that is not. For this method on how to make a puppy stop biting, each time the puppy tries to mouth you, pull your hand away before contact and promptly provide a treat or wave around a chewy toy for him to bite on instead. Keep in mind, however, to never let the tugging become too aggressive. Distraction In addition to mouthing people, puppies will also mouth things in their environment. This is mostly done out of curiosity. There are many ways to teach your dog not to chew on house furnishings. Besides puppy-proofing your home, be sure to provide an assortment of interesting and safe chew toys for your pup to play with. For example, if she shreds a plush toy in 2 minutes, you may want to stick toys made of rubber or hard plastic. Hide-the-treat toys are also great for distracting puppies from nibbling on other things. This type of toy not only distracts your pup but also provides mental stimulation as she tries to figure out how to get to the reward. A final option for distracting your pup is to arrange a playtime for your dog with other puppies or vaccinated adult dogs. Not only will this help to socialize her with other dogs, but those dogs will also assist in the process of teaching your puppy when a bite is too hard. Deterrence There are various products designed to prevent a dog from licking or chewing objects in the house. With that being said, this method of stopping puppy biting is not as simple as spraying your belongings with these products. There are two very important steps involved in using them for training. He should spit it out right away. After he spits it out, let him smell it so that he makes the association. This may sound cruel, but if your dog learns that he can just run to his bowl and get rid of the taste, the deterrent will become ineffective. Continue doing this for the next two to four weeks until your puppy has stopped chewing your belongings. This is particularly true for herding breeds. To teach your puppy to stop nipping at your heels, keep a favorite toy in your pocket. When she bites at your heels, immediately stop moving and wave the toy around to distract her until she latches onto it. Another method is to stop moving when she bites, and then, when she releases on her own, offer her the toy or a treat. Always praise your puppy when she releases from nipping at your heel. The idea is to teach your dog that good things happen when bad behavior stops. Puppy nipping and biting are natural behaviors for puppies but unwanted in adult dogs. Taking these few simple steps now will help prevent that bad behavior down the line and allow you to have a stress-free lifelong relationship when that little bundle of fur grows up. Looking for another method for how to keep a puppy from biting? In answer to Anonymous If my children were teething, of course bloody not, for goodness sake. If however my child bit hard then I would tell them off! Firstly when any of my dogs were teething we had a numerous amount of chew toys, also when we play of course they mouth, and feel objects , they wouldnt of been squited for this!!!! And perhaps sometimes they a little too hard, the first thing I do is yelp, Ouch! If however she comes charcging at feet, chasing the children, and biting there legs jumping up like the OP has sugested I would use a water spray. My pup is 9 months old and is a laberbese. Bread as a disibilty dog. She is huge and not a force to beckon with, She is loving, attentive, happy, so soft, and most inportantly a very special pal to our son with special needs. So I would say if you think that spraying a squirt of water at biting is terrible then thats youre choice. Dont presume anything. Mouthing is normal, nipping when playing is ok to a point, taring trousers, running after ankiles and biting is not okay. In answer to Anonymous Aplogies for the spelling, it was a hot sleepless night.! Lastly We all raise animals, like children seeing you want to lump the two together very differantly. A few points come to mind with this post, 1 there is no such breed as a laberbese, am i right in presuming she is a Labrador Retriever x Bernese mountain dog? I can assure you that neither Guide dog puppies or Assistance dog puppies EVER have water squirted at them due to teething, or any other behavior come to think of it! American Pit Bull: Boxer Puppy Biting and Nipping When we talk about Boxer puppies biting children, both younger and older kids, toys or even biting at your feet, what most are actually talking about is nipping. There is a huge difference between the 2 words. A nip is a quick snap of the jaws, it can be done in the air close to a person or it can make skin contact yet it is a pinch type bite that often does not break the skin. Boxer puppies and even older dogs nip, not to attack someone, but to send a warning. The warning is not necessarily that of an impending attack… Boxer puppy nipping is done for one of several reasons: As play — Young pups are used to nipping at their littermates as a form of play and this may carry over as they transition into their new home. If a Boxer puppy is biting a lot, it may be an issue of the dog needing to learn the rules of the home and needing to learn that was used to be acceptable with other pups is no longer acceptable with his humans. A Method of Sending a Message — Boxer dogs of any age may nip for many reasons. Unable to vocalize, the nip is a message. Often it is a low growl, lasting just seconds, with teeth bared. In some cases, there will only be a growl as the dog lowers his back, hunches over and bares his teeth yet does not actually physically bite. On the other hand, an actual bite not a nip is a full force, aggressive action in which the jaws lock down and teeth puncture the skin. The dog intends to inflict injury and the person on the other end often receives it unless thick clothing gets in the way, etc. In the following section we will discuss how to stop a Boxer dog from biting in the sense that the dog is actually nipping and it is not a full force, aggression bite meant to do serious harm. Training to Stop Boxer Puppy to Stop Biting and Nipping Overview Many owners feel, and rightfully so, that a bite is a serious issue and a behavior that needs to be addressed immediately. For this reason, they feel that taking serious action is the only way to stop the behavior… and this is where things can go wrong. And this is because it does not teach the dog what he needs to learn. Yelling, hitting or otherwise intimidating a puppy or dog will only serve to make the dog afraid of his owner. Alternatively, some dogs will see this as a challenge. So, owners must choose: Fear or respect. For a happy, healthy environment in which humans and canines live in peace, the Boxer or any other dog should be taught to respect his humans, not fear them. In addition, for a dog that bites, physically isolating him will stop the problem short term…while the dog is taken away of course he is not biting anyone…. It is a huge mistake to miss out on a chance to train a dog to stop biting. Of course, in the rare chance that a dog is full out biting, causing injury and is clearly dangerously aggressive, the dog should be removed… And measures must be taken to keep the family safe from any potential attacks…but again, this does not relate to puppy nipping, play biting or nipping due to teething, etc. Training a Boxer puppy to stop biting takes a bit of mental will power. You may have heard this before: Ignore the puppy. There is no other way for a dog to interpret this, as it is canine mentality. His humans and any other animals in the home are his pack. Every single pack that exists has a leader. Having a leader is a defining element of a pack. Problems can arise when a dog does not have a clear understanding of who that leader is. Humans begin eating. Two to three minutes pass. Once the dog obeys, a delicious and healthy meal is set down for him. So, once a dog knows that his human is in charge, how does this training stop the Boxer from biting….? When a Boxer understands that his human s are his leader s , being ignored is akin to being rejected by pack. A dog will suddenly be very humbled. He will worry that his pack has turned their backs on him… he will question his behavior and, when done correctly, he will make the connection that his action of biting caused a major problem with his standing in his family…. If you were both on the floor, stand up. If you were holding him, place him down. If you were both sitting on the sofa, rise up. This means zero talking, absolutely no looking in his direction…nothing. As a Boxer puppy works very hard to gain attention of any one in the house, everyone even those who were not bitten should be completely indifferent to the dog. Allow 10 minutes to pass. Now, when you are doing this, 2 minutes may feel like 20, so take a look at the clock and then choose an activity flip through the TV, check your email, get a drink…do whatever you want, but do remain in the house so that your Boxer can see that you are ignoring him and wait it out. After those 10 minutes, it is time to speak to your Boxer, but not engage him in any activity yet. Many times, the puppy will test things out. Simply mull around near your dog, speaking a bit and acting matter-of-fact. Do not give praise. Wait things out for about 5 minutes. If your Boxer does not nip or bite at you, it will be time to go back to the position that you were in when the bite occurred. It is at this time that if your Boxer does not nip at you that praise and attention can be given. If the dog does bite again, the complete ignoring method of training must be done — this means that the dog is testing things to see if it was indeed his nip that caused his temporary outcast from the pack. How do you turn your puppy into a well behaved, sociable dog, and keep those Chompers off your skin? Bite inhibition training, or soft mouth training, is a fantastic way to get any puppy to avoid human skin, or not bite down when they do hit it. Imagine two small boxer puppy littermates, about 5 weeks old. At least for the next few minutes, that is, until all is forgotten and play resumes. He realizes he bit just a little too hard, and that is why play stopped for him. The Boxer pup has learned to control his bite pressure at least with other puppies! Your pup gets a little too excited, miss the toy, and clamps down on your hand! What are you going to do? Your solution here is a simple one. Mimic dog, or rather puppy, behavior! How would one puppy respond if the other bit him a bit too hard? Immediately stop playing your game! Drop the rope toy and walk away. The last thing your pup wants right now is for the game to stop. Your goal is very simple. Puppy Biting and Teething Your puppy will undergo two teething stages as the little one grows two different sets of teeth. The first stage happens at about three weeks, and there is no reason you should ever have to deal with it unless you bred your puppy. At about 12 weeks three months , the second teething process will begin and your boxer puppy will begin growing his permanent teeth! Your puppy will want to bite and chew. Human skin is just…. If your puppy does this, offer a chew toy instead. Puppy sized rubber Kongs make wonderful chew toys and tend to be very durable! Very few young puppies are powerful enough to break apart a Kong. Offer the toy if your pup starts chomping at those hands or toes during play! Teething puppies are going to bite no matter what you do. They might not be trying to play but relieve the discomfort they feel from the teething process. Stop play as soon as those teeth miss the toy and clamp on your skin. These are called aversives, or forms of positive punishment. Aversives are used as a form of punishment reinforcement. More often, a reward-based approach is recommended, or something the dog will enjoy. This is with adult dogs. Never, ever, scold or yell at your or any puppy! Even mild forms of chastisement or corrections are questionable. You only ever want to use reward-based enforcement techniques. Why are puppies so special, you ask? Why are they different from adult dogs? Your puppy could become permanently afraid! But why should you, anyway? Why does he even need to know how to control that bite pressure anyway? Socialize Your Puppy! This is probably more important than anything else listed in our article! Teach your puppy, while he is a puppy, that other people both adults and children mean only wonderful things! Introduce your puppy to all kinds of environments and as many friendly animals as you can! Introduce your little one to dog parks after he is vaccinated , crowds, and other public areas with strangers. Show your puppy that nothing he might ever encounter ever means him harm! Related topics of interest to our readers. Dogs , Puppy training Alex Andes Puppy Biting: What's Normal, What's Not, and How to Curb It One of the most common issues we see poor dog training advice given for is puppy biting and mouthiness, so we're going to give you the most standardized professional advice possible for this issue. There's a reason why it's discouraged for non-professionals to give legal or medical advice to strangers on the Internet. At best, their advice could be wrong; at worst, it could it be potentially dangerous. We so wish the same rules applied to dog training advice. Puppies go through at least two fear periods in their first year of life, so when those sensitive puppy brains are involved, it's especially important to follow professional instruction! They go through an uncomfortable teething process that lasts for months. They play hard with their siblings, often using their teeth to successfully instigate play and attention. Herding breed dogs are predisposed to nip, herd, and chase small, fast-moving things. Young children often get the brunt of this behavior. Retrievers are predisposed to picking up and holding anything and everything within reach, including your hands and arms. A word on what to avoid: Above all else, avoid physical punishment when it comes to puppy biting. I have heard people given terrible albeit, well-meaning advice over the years, from squeezing your puppy's mouth shut, to pinning them on their backs, to muzzling them to stop the biting. Physical punishments like this range from silly and ineffective to cruel and downright abusive. In fact, you can create fear and aggression in your dog using these types of methods. So, what should you do about puppy biting? When you bring a puppy into your home, it's your job to create fair, consistent boundaries for unwanted behaviors, including when it comes to teeth on skin. Note: You are not putting your puppy in a time out. That involves way too much time, talking, and attention to be an effective punishment. You are either ignoring the behavior or removing yourself from it. That means play is over, fun is over, attention is over. Be as non-dramatic as possible. If the behavior is hard for you to ignore, go behind a door or baby gate where your puppy does not have access to continue nipping at you. If your puppy tries to nip at you when you return, remove yourself again. You should see a major decrease in the intensity of biting as well as the amount of biting attempts within a few days. An Important Caveat: Some puppies find the act of a person walking away reinforcing. If your puppy seems to enjoy you removing yourself as a game of chase, you can alternatively use the side of your leg not your knee, please! You may have to block them multiple times before they stop trying; don't give up! And most importantly, still avoid yelling or using your hands — bitey puppies tend to find both of these things very exciting. Remember, it's normal for young puppies to explore the world with their mouths. Things to keep in mind: Be sure to give your pup attention and praise when they are behaving nicely! All family members and guests MUST be consistent in order for this to work! Be aware that even doing everything right, this behavior may not go away entirely until months of age. Remember, this is a normal developmental period in puppies. For extra-bitey puppies, or those that are biting after months of age, this blog will help give you some additional tips and recommendations. Why Does This Work? A behavior that doesn't get reinforced will stop. Your pup will learn that we don't react to biting with play, attention, or even a negative reaction. All of these things can be fun for a puppy. Your pup will learn to self-entertain. Once they realize the nipping isn't working, they will eventually redirect themselves onto something else. Your puppy will seek out appropriate ways to get your attention, like offering a "sit" or laying at your feet. A few other suggestions: It's also important to have a management place for your puppy, such as a play pen or baby-gated bathroom. It gives you a break from your puppy, and is a calm place for your puppy to settle down if he gets too wound up. Make sure your puppy has plenty of rubbery teething toys, is getting daily exercise, and is not excessively crated. If his needs are not being met, the nipping will take longer to extinguish. Make sure your puppy is eating three meals a day. Things we may think are punishing, like pushing your puppy away, yelling at him, etc, can be considered fun, play-like behaviors for your puppy and can encourage biting. When doing the above exercise, be as quiet and calm as you can. When should you be concerned about biting in puppies? You should seek out a certified professional if your puppy: Is growling, snapping, or biting when a person comes near a resource. Food, toys, etc Stiffens and stares at the person before biting. Is consistently biting and breaking skin. Barks, growls, or nips not in play at new people entering the home. Snaps or growls at children. What if it's not getting better? Remember, we do not expect this behavior to go away entirely until at least months of age. We also need to take into consideration a dog's breed, social history, and any medical conditions that could be contributing. For example, if a puppy has an intestinal parasite that's depleting their nutritional stores, we often see an uptick in biting. For extra guidance with extremely bitey puppies, or those that are still regularly biting after 6 months of age, check out these additional tips. Need professional guidance on your puppy biting issues? We offer private and group online dog training that's accessible from anywhere in the world. More details here , or contact us.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Are they the right fit for your home? Can you attend to their needs? Are they as cute as a button? The perfect pal that ticks all these boxes is our line of bernedoodle puppies in Sydney, Melb, and surrounding areas. At 4Pups, we breed first-generation bernedoodle puppies for sale across Australia to bring out the best of the Australian Shepard and Poodle breeds and produce outstanding quality dogs. A compact and healthy little animal with a wonderful temperament, perfect for a ball of fun! Speak to our team here today to find your pup! So why are these dogs made for you? Many Bernedoodle puppies in Sydney and beyond have one of the most adorable and energetic personalities, making them one of the most iconic dog breeds. There is a wide range of different variations of this breed. There are many colours available depending on the type of Bernedoodle you choose, from grey and fawn to apricot and merle if the dog takes after the Poodle parent, and black, white, or a tri-coloured black, white, and brown coat if the Bernese side is dominant. Because they shed minimal to no fur around the household, this prevents dander from getting out into the air, which is the cause for conditions such as asthma, hay fever, and other allergic reactions. This makes these bernedoodle for sale in Melbourne perfect for homeowners with a dog allergy, allowing you to pet these adorable creatures without. I also wanted to say thank you again for all your kindness and getting us another puppy after losing our dear Ollie. I can tell you Sherman is just such a joy. Look at that face! We absolutely love him. You picked us the best dog. We could not be happier with our little bundle of fur. He is mellow, fun, happy, friendly. Piper has taken to being his trainer and we are working on all kinds of commands. Sit, Stay, Come, Drop. As you can see he loves to lay in the bushes and stay cool. He also loves to go in the lake. Only up to his knees but he seems to like it. Sherman is the perfect combination of playful and mellow for our family. Thank you so much. We just love him. Clementine was born on Aug 2, .She has become such a part of our family. She is the most beautiful dog I have ever seen. Our daughter is a professional photographer and took these pictures. We have plenty more where these came from :-D. And more than her beauty her personality is ridiculously incredible. She is still a pup and gets into trouble now and then. She loves to play. She loves everyone she meets. And she loves to just hang out with us. She was in the car with the 2 of us and our two 10 year old twin granddaughters for two straight 10 hour days on the way there and 2 more full days on the way back and could not have been more perfect. She just seems to know when to be spunky and when to be mellow. We could not be happier. We waited 11 months for her and paid an arm and a leg for her, but we would do it again a thousand times over to get her. Thank you so much for breeding your dogs. We love our little Clementine. Let us know if you would like any more pictures. The wait was so worth it. You have given us the most incredible animal — smart, loving, healthy with the best personality anyone could wish for! She truly is an incredible dog. She is bringing so much joy and love to our family and after only 7 months with us, we are starting to question whether Kota needs a Swissridge sibling! My husband, who did NOT want a dog is crazy in love with her! I loved coming out to meet you and see your wonderful facility. Straight away I knew that a lady as lovely as this, could only breed amazing dogs! Thank you Sherry — you truly have changed our lives and we are so proud to be part of this amazing Swissridge family! Trek is an amazing little guy and we fell in love with him instantly. He is very intelligent and easy to train. He makes us smile constantly with his silly antics. Need I mention cute, he is too cute for his own good. He Loves to run around the yard with his big brother and then come in the house for a snuggle. I am always amazed at how well he listens to commands for being such a young pup. I am constantly impressed with SwissRidge Kennels and the pups that come from there. Thank You Sherry and the SwissRidge staff for creating such wonderful dogs for us to enjoy. Location: Brisbane, Australia Email: [email protected] Bernedoodles Australia Having previously bred family pets and therapy dogs, these breeders quickly realized that Bernedoodles would complement Australian households. Thus, Bernedoodles Australia was established. They specialize in healthy Bernedoodles and Bernedoodles from Australia. Their puppies have excellent temperaments and shed minimally to not at all. They were the first breeders in Australia to introduce Bernedoodles and Australian Bernedoodles in .In , the beautiful Aussie Mountain Doodle was also presented to Australian families. They have raised highly bright, affectionate pets and therapeutic Bernedoodles since .Their breeding program is founded on an all-encompassing philosophy. Puppies are born and reared in the homes of family members, children, and other pets. Each female breeding dog is limited to three liters before spaying or neutering. Breeding dogs at Bernedoodles Australia are not merely pets but also cherished family members, as they all reside in family homes rather than kennels. Before breeding, all dogs undergo genetic testing and hip and elbow scoring. Their puppies are socialized with youngsters and raised in a loving family environment, making them ideal family pets. Lavender Lane is dedicated to breeding responsibly and is an active member of its community. Lavender Lane Puppies aims to breed healthy, happy, and affectionate puppies. They vaccinate, microchip, and treat their puppies for fleas, ticks, and worms. Puppies at Lavender Lane are sold with health reports that include thorough examinations. In addition, the breeders create a Lavender Lane Puppy Kit for each puppy to ensure a smooth transition. Each puppy has a new manual, milestones brochure, training instructions, advice leaflet, toys, food, and a transition blanket. As a smaller Bernedoodle breeder, puppies are not always available. Therefore, they request that you register on their website to receive updates. To find out if a breeder is reputable, look at their website or contact them directly and ask them about the care of their dogs. When choosing a puppy from your chosen breeder, you should be able to see photos of each puppy before deciding whether or not it meets your standards, as well as any other requirements such as being gentle around children. You should also check if there are any other breeds besides Bernedoodles at this facility so that if something happens with one breed, another option is available for replacement purposes! The name comes from two parent breeds, Bernese Mountain Dog and Poodle, which breeders created in the United States in the s. The first Bernedoodles were created by breeders in Australia who crossed their dogs with purebred Poodles or Australian Shepherds. Do Bernedoodles Make Good Pets? As a pet, Bernedoodles are very friendly and affectionate. Their high energy levels make them perfect for those who want to spend time outdoors but still have a dog at home. Conclusion Bernedoodles are a fantastic breed of dog that can be great for family members of all ages. They are always happy and love to be around you, which makes them a great addition to any family. Image Credits:. Firstly, no ethical, registered breeder of either Poodles or Bernese would breed one. Also, consider the Poodle for a moment. Poodles were bred as water-retrieving dogs. Their dense, curly, non-shedding coat offered fabulous protection from cold water and kept their organs warm from the elements so the dog was able to keep working. Their extra-sensitive noses also had many work as truffle-hunters. Their intelligence makes them very versatile. They are lively, active, and agile. They have a long, double-coat for protection from the snow. They have a self-confident and placid disposition, and are devoted to their own people. So why would you want to cross these two breeds? This is simply not the case. Because it is unpredictable. It is a catch phrase invented to create bigger demand for the product — a cross-bred dog with a cute or clever name. The same would happen with a Bernese x Poodle. It will either give you a coat that is half and half, a coat that is a Bernese coat, or a coat that is a poodle coat. To maintain a long coat the dog will need to be professionally groomed every 4 weeks and thoroughly combed out several times a week.

They love spending time with their owners and letting their playful and fun characters shine through. They are eager to please and very loyal dogs. Originally Boxers were bred to be working dogs, which is why they have such high exercise needs and energy to spare! Common health problems in Boxers Boxers are intelligent dogs who are very loyal to their families. Sadly, like many other purebred dogs, they are prone to certain conditions. If you are thinking of buying a Boxer puppy , make sure the parents of your puppy have had the relevant health screening to reduce the chances of your puppy being affected by certain conditions. Some of the conditions Boxers may develop include: Brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome BOAS — this can cause severe breathing problems in some Boxers with shorter faces. Epilepsy — a brain disorder causing seizures. Eye problems — such as corneal ulcers due to the shape of their skulls and prominence of the eyes. Heart problems — such as cardiomyopathy or aortic stenosis. Before breeding, parents should be screened. Skin problems - such as warts, skin tags, skin allergies and soreness in skin folds around the face skin fold dermatitis. Certain cancers. If you want to minimise the risk of your dog getting problems, you can read our advice on choosing a pedigree dog. Caring for your boxer Boxers are fun and active dogs who can be high maintenance due to their exercise needs. If you love getting out and about walking, they could be a good breed for you! A large secure garden is a must if you have a Boxer so they have plenty of space to blow off steam. Boxers can be very boisterous so do better with an experienced and patient! Boxers and barking Your Boxer is likely to make noise and how much they do make will be down to their training and personality. Boxers are naturally very good guard dogs and so are more likely to bark to make their owners aware of any comings and goings around the home. Training and socialisation Boxers are clever dogs but can be boisterous, so positive, reward-based training from a young age is really important. Boxers mature a lot slower than other breeds, so having a large amount of puppy energy in such a big dog can be challenging for some owners. You need to handle your Boxer with a firm but fair attitude and make sure you are patient and consistent. They can be boisterous so make sure you train them not to jump up at people from a young age. Boxers love human company so can develop separation anxiety if left alone. If they are alone or bored, they like to chew which means your furniture and belongings will be at risk! Exercise Boxers are very high energy, active dogs who love playing and being involved in everything going on. They keep their puppy attitude longer than most dogs so you might find your Boxer rarely has a calm moment at home! Your Boxer will need a minimum of two hours exercise every day. This should be split into a few walks with plenty of opportunities for sniffing around and exploring. You should also give your Boxer plenty of time to exercise off lead somewhere secure so they can have a good run around. On top of this, your Boxer will also need regular, short training sessions. They will also need lots of playtime and free time in the garden to do what they want. Grooming Boxers are fairly low maintenance when it comes to grooming. They have short fur which only needs a weekly brush to keep it in good condition. As with any dog, you should expect your Boxer to shed throughout the year, more so in spring and autumn. A regular hoover should be enough to keep on top of it. Due to the excess skin around their faces, Boxers are at risk of developing a condition called skin fold dermatitis. Boxers and children Generally speaking, Boxers are good around children of all ages given the right training. An adult only home or one with teenagers is better for a Boxer. Always supervise your dog with children and vulnerable adults. Puppy socialisation classes are a great way to get your pup used to new dogs. Early socialisation will help your dog get along well other dogs as an adult. They may get along OK with a cat they have grown up with, but you should always supervise your Boxer with smaller pets. Your vet will be able to tell you how much your Boxer should be eating. You should feed them a good quality, commercially available, complete dog food. We usually recommend splitting their daily allowance into two meals. If you give your dog the occasional treat or use treats for training, remember to take this into account and reduce their daily allowance. Try to feed your dog at similar times every day as they like routine. Remember to leave a gap between eating and exercising. Beware unusually cheap puppies as they could come from a puppy farm. These breeders must do extra health tests and meet higher standards. Set-up costs Puppy vaccines — if you rescue a dog, reputable centres will often vaccinate them for you. Remember that ongoing booster vaccinations will be needed to continue their immunity. Neutering — you should usually arrange for your dog to be neutered at around months old, though your vet will be able to advise you exactly when is best. Check prices at your local practice as these will depend on your vet and where you live. Some rescue centres will neuter any dogs they rehome, saving you this cost. Equipment — including a collar and tags, lead, harness, dog beds, dog bowls, pet-safe toothpaste and toothbrushes, grooming brushes and toys. Keep in mind that all these will need to be replaced with wear or damage or if your dog outgrows or damages them! Ongoing costs Food. Preventive healthcare — budget for routine vet visits to help stop your dog getting ill and catch any problems early. They need annual check-ups, vaccinations and regular flea and worming treatments. Check if your vet offers a health care plan as this can help spread the cost throughout the year. Accessories — including lots of poo bags, replacing worn toys and grooming accessories, buying doggy toothpaste and any other extras they might need. Other costs Training — basic training is very important and dogs can benefit from formal classes. Some dogs may have, or develop, behavioural problems which might need professional management. Boarding — you may also need to budget for boarding or dog sitting costs if you are planning to go away from home on holiday. If you are having difficulty with veterinary costs, you can check if you are eligible for treatment at PDSA here. Get ready with the ear plugs, because Boxers are known for loud snoring! Boxers originated in Germany in the s so are considered a fairly new breed. Getting a Boxer Do plenty of research before getting a Boxer. These playful and lively dogs keep their puppy ways well into their adult years so need an understanding owner with plenty of time and patience! Boxers can be really loving in the right household and will love spending time with you. Rehoming centres There are plenty of rescue centres across the country where you may find a Boxer. Breed-specific rescues that specialise in Boxers are also out there. Good rescue centres should let you know of any health and behaviour problems. Breeders If you buy from a breeder, make sure your puppy will be well socialised and have all necessary screening tests, health checks and vaccinations. We recommend looking for a Kennel Club Assured breeder as they meet higher standards. This means there is often excess skin around their face which leads to skin folds. The skin inside these folds can become sore and infections are prone to develop. They are more common in brachycephalic breeds due to their conformation, as their eyes tend to be more bulbous. The breed is also predisposed to: - Hip dysplasia - Aortic stenosis which is a narrowing of one of the blood vessels lead from the heart and can result in heart failure. Priority Kennel Club health schemes and testing: None but there are several recommended schemes that the Kennel Club recommends which can be found here. Craun et al, 'Genetic and environmental risk for lymphoma in boxer dogs. Lively, strong and loyal, they make great pets for all the family, adults and children alike, but can be boisterous so may not be suitable in a home with very young children - or where owners don't have time to give them the attention and exercise they need as they can get bored easily! Fearless and very self-assured, they are not quick to pick a fight, but more than able to defend themselves if they have to. They do not like being left home alone and can become distressed and destructive.

It is perfect for travel, for a spare crate, for camping, or to have in an extra room of the house. It folds down for easy, quick storage…and also includes a plush fleece-covered pet bed. Your dog will love this crate. Key Features: Includes plush fleece-covered pet bed Easy storage Well-ventilated with multiple screened panels Pockets on the top and sides for storing treats, toys, and more Many colors and sizes What to Look For in a Crate As mentioned previously, finding a crate with great reviews is not the only thing you want to base your decision on. A few other things you will want to consider when selecting a crate are the material, quality, cost, and primary use of the crate. Use the information below to help you know which of these characteristics is essential for you and your dog. Material When considering the material of a crate, wire is the best choice for a Golden Retriever. Here are a few reasons why you might consider a wire crate: Wire crates are durable Easier to clean than other crates Creates a comfortable environment for the dog Allows the dog to see out of the crate easily Breathable For comfort, just place a blanket or pad in the bottom of a wire crate, and your dog will feel right at home. Plastic and wooden crates are also very popular. Plastic crates are a good option for traveling and provide a cozy environment for the dog; however, they are not as breathable as a wire crate and can trap in more heat. Wooden crates are breathable like wire crates; however, their durability can vary depending on how big of a chewer your dog is. Soft, travel crates are another common type of crate. This material is not ideal for a Golden Retriever as a primary crate. However, they are a great option for a travel crate, or an extra around the house. They also provide a cozier environment for the dog, but can be a challenge to clean. Quality When looking for a dog crate, you want to find one that will last the entire lifespan of your dog. The material the crate is made from will play a significant role in its quality. Wire and metal crates will last longer than wooden, fabric, and plastic ones. If your dog is a big chewer, go with a metal crate for more durability. Cost The cost can be a significant factor for some individuals when selecting a dog crate. As you browse through crate options, make sure you find one that is the quality and style you need, but fits within your budget. The price will sometimes, but not always, be a sign of quality. Typically, higher-priced crates are built sturdier and will last longer. What Size of Crate for a Golden Retriever Golden Retrievers will grow to be just over 20 inches in height and weigh between 60 and 75 pounds as adults. However, use the tips below to adjust for your dog. There needs to be enough room in the crate for the dog to be comfortable while standing and lying down, but not too much room that the dog feels unsafe. Do not eyeball the size of the crate when you make your purchase; instead, take the time to measure your dog correctly. Follow the steps below to figure out what size of crate you need for your Golden Retriever: When taking your measurements, make sure the dog is standing. To measure the length: Measure starting at the tip of the nose extending to the base of the tail. To measure the height: Measure from the top of the head down to the floor. Keep in mind these measurement directions are for Golden Retrievers. If you have other dogs at home, the way you take the height measurement may vary. Figure out the size of the crate: Using these measurements, add about 4 inches to each measurement to obtain the height and length of an ideal crate. To avoid buying multiple crates, look for ones that come with dividers so you can expand the crate as the dog grows. Do your best to figure out how big your puppy will be by getting the measurements of its mother and father. For a female puppy, focus on the size of the mother and for a male, the father. Use the measurements of the parents to purchase an adult crate for your puppy. Again, make sure it has dividers that can temporarily make the crate smaller. Though, you get what you paid for. Best Features What makes the Haige heavy duty crate so much better than any other dog crate is the frame. Young Golden Retriever puppies, in the midst of teething, will certainly try to chew up the crate. So, this feature provides a great dog-safe enclosure for your pup. However, the only negative for some people is the one-door option. It makes it slightly more difficult to access whatever you put into the crate bowls, pads, etc. Because the second door is on top, it provides a clever way of getting things in dog crate without the chance of your dog escaping. The degree rotated locking caster are 4 wheels that can lock in place for better mobility. All quality dog crate should have removable plastic trays, including the Haige heavy duty. Unlike other dog crates, this brand comes with a 3-year warranty. Check out the current price and more reviews on the Haige Heavy Duty here. I must have forgot that this crate included a bowl, water, and mat for the cage. I was so happy and for the price. Such a deal! My dog has separation anxiety and destroyed a standard wire crate and a plastic crate, injuring himself while doing so. But so far no damage or injuries. Plenty of room, our dog is 65 lbs and he can turn and move easily. It provides freedom for him with an added security to me that I still have control. He is a larger dog pounds but this is strong and durable. The sling pack makes it an easy addition to our walks. I highly recommend this product! This also does not come with a divider sold separately , which I think is such an awesome feature for dog crates. Security is always important with crates, which is why the New World crate comes with slide-bolt latches to ensure your dog is safe in the cage. In fact, Golden Retrievers much prefer to chew on socks! Like the first two options, this dog crate is foldable and can collapse in a few seconds. Easily slide out the tray and hose it down or wipe it clean with ease. As mentioned, there is no divider. So, I would only recommend this for adult-sized Golden Retrievers. If you were to purchase a divider separately, it would probably cost you more. To check out the current price of the New World dog crate, click here. Extremely secure, plenty of room for our golden retriever pup plus plenty of room for her to grow into , and the thick plastic floor is very easy to clean. This crate, however, is great value. I had one downstairs but it was too troublesome to move every time I went upstairs. Now, Max can sleep upstairs too. This is super awesome, and super neat! Consider the age of your Golden Retriever when selecting a crate. Different types of crates offer different advantages and disadvantages. Using the wrong crate size can lead to discomfort, restricted movement, and anxiety. Make sure you understand the role of a crate, not just for training but also transportation. Crate training for Golden Retrievers requires proper timing and practice. Where to place the crate and what to put in it will help make the most of your crate. Golden Retrievers will typically grow to by 20 to 24 inches tall and up to 75 lbs, so you need to make sure to get them the right size crate. Follow these steps to determine the size of your dog: Measure the height of your Golden Retriever: Have your dog stand up straight, Measure from the floor to the top of their shoulder blades. Add around inches to this measurement to determine the minimum height for the crate. Measure the length of your dog from the tip of their nose to the base of their tail. Remember to add 2 to 4 inches to the measurement. Measure their width by having your Golden Retriever standing with their legs slightly apart. Focus your attention on the widest part of their body, which tends to be the chest area. Once again, always add up to 4 inches to the figure. Finally, you want to consider the age of your Golden Retriever. For example, if you have a puppy, keep in mind that they will grow rapidly. You may want to choose a crate that will work for their adult size or opt for an adjustable crate with dividers, so you can gradually increase the space as they grow. Your Golden Retriever puppy will rapidly outgrow a nice crate that is not suited for an adult size. Now that you have all the measurements, you can refer to this Crate Size Calculator to find out the right and best dog crate size for your golden retriever. Types of Crates For Golden Retrievers Crates come not only in different sizes, but also with different structural elements. Below, we explain the pros and cons of each type of crate. Wire Crates Wire crates are popular due to their durability and visibility, They provide excellent ventilation and are easy to clean. However, bear in mind that some Golden Retrievers tend to find them less cozy than other options. Plastic Crates Plastic crates are a popular choice for travel. They offer more privacy and create a den-like environment for your Golden Retriever. Being lightweight, they are easy to transport and provide a sense of security. However, they may not offer as much airflow as wire crates. They are perfectly suitable for strong and aggressive chewers , which is a frequent issue among puppies! Bear in mind that steel crates can be heavy and less budget-friendly than other crate types. Soft Crates Lightweight and collapsible, soft crates are convenient for temporary use, such as short transportation needs. They are not suitable for dogs that like to chew or scratch as they are easily damaged. These crates come in various materials, including wood or wicker, and provide a stylish alternative to traditional crates. Yet, they may be less durable, and some favor design over ventilation. Recommendations for Best Golden Retriever Crates We suggest discussing crate recommendations with your veterinarian and your Golden Retriever breeder for tips and favorite brands. It has a removable plastic tray for easy cleaning and folds down for storage. Having double doors on the crate is a practical feature as it offers convenient access and flexibility in terms of crate placement. The secure locking mechanism adds an extra layer of safety. Cons: While the crate is generally considered of decent quality, there could be durability concerns for dogs with a history of trying to escape crates. This means it might not be the most suitable option for such dogs. This plastic crate is airline-approved in the USA and provides a secure and comfortable space for your Golden Retriever during air travel. It features ventilation on all sides and a durable, heavy-duty construction. Withstood mile flight. Arrived on time. Easy to set up. Met all airline guidelines for flying pets. The dog had ample room for a mat. Adding that this is also rust resistant! Spacious and roomy: The crate offered plenty of space for dogs to stand up and move around comfortably. Cons: Durability concerns: Considering the price paid for these crates, it was mentioned by previous buyers that they were not as sturdy as expected. This raised doubts about their long-term durability. Potential safety issues: The crate had plastic edges and lips that protruded, which proved problematic for dogs with severe separation anxiety. If you have a strong and powerful Golden Retriever, this steel crate is an excellent choice. It has reinforced steel tubing and multiple locks for maximum security. I used to worry while I was out, and would come home to a 45 min cleanup, not anymore! Thanks for the great product that is, as advertised. It effectively prevents the dog from escaping and causing damage to the surroundings, giving peace of mind when leaving my dog alone. Durability and strength: The crate is built to be indestructible, and it lives up to its claim. The sturdy construction and quality materials used make it resistant to escape attempts and capable of withstanding the efforts of even the most determined dogs. Cons: Inconvenient assembly and weight: The crate can be challenging to assemble due to the use of hex screws, which may not be the most user-friendly option. Additionally, it is quite heavy, making it less portable and difficult to move around. Grated bottom design: The grated floor of the crate, although intended for easy cleaning in case of accidents, may not be comfortable for dogs to lie on or move around. Some dogs may find it less appealing, and additional padding or a flat surface may be necessary to ensure their comfort. This soft crate is lightweight and portable, making it ideal for temporary use. It features three mesh doors for easy access and ventilation. I used it for a weekend dog show and plan on using it often. I may need to purchase another for my other pup! It provides ample room for your golden retriever puppy to stand up and stretch out, allowing for comfort and mobility. Lots of ventilation: The 4-door model offers excellent cross-ventilation options, making it suitable for hot weather conditions. Sturdiness and portability: The crate feels sturdy and durable, giving you confidence in its ability to contain my dog. Lightweight: Despite its strength, it is relatively lightweight, making it easy to transport and handle. The included storage bag with various handle options adds to its portability. Cons: Limited instructions and assembly complexity: The provided instructions were not comprehensive, and there was a lack of guidance on disassembling the crate. Assembly can be straightforward, but taking it down and folding it back may require some trial and error. It may not be suitable for dogs with such behaviors, and additional caution is necessary. Additionally, the larger windows and netting material can pose risks for puppies, as they may get caught or try to escape through them. This aesthetic crate combines the functionality of a wire crate with a stylish cover. It blends well with home decor and provides a cozy den-like environment for your Golden Retriever. No more stuck paws. After my puppy got her paw stuck twice in the kennel bars and woke me up screaming, I knew I needed to find a way to make her kennel safer. This is a great solution. Not only does it keep her from accidently getting caught in the bars, it looks great and is high quality and well made. My huge kennel looks so much nicer in my room now and the crate pad is pretty nice. I love the option for side or front entry too as my kennel has both. The fabric is described as plush and the bumper and pad offer protection from the wires of the crate, making it more den-like and cozy. The set created a more appealing and inviting space for the dog. Cons: Inadequate size and ties: There were issues with the sizing and ties of the bumper set. The side panels were reported to be slightly short for the cage, which could affect the overall fit and coverage. Additionally, the ties on the bumper set were not sturdy enough and ripped easily, particularly during playful interactions inside the crate. Misleading washing instructions: While the packaging stated that the set was completely machine washable, the bumper was later found to be spot clean only, resulting in twisting and seams starting to rip after washing. One user felt that the packaging and description were misleading, and that clearer instructions should have been provided. Advantages of Choosing the Right Crate Size Comfort A properly sized crate ensures your Golden Retriever has enough space to lie down, stand, turn around, and stretch comfortably. Safety The right crate size prevents your Golden Retriever from getting stuck or injured while inside. It reduces the risk of accidents or escape attempts. Effective House Training A correctly sized crate aids in house training by discouraging your Golden Retriever from soiling their sleeping area. It helps establish a routine and promotes bladder control. If the crate you choose is too small, your dog will be uncomfortable. And if the crate you choose is too big, they may feel comfortable pottying inside of it. Downsides of Choosing the Wrong Crate Size Beware of some of the most common issues when picking the wrong crate size. A crate that is too small can cause discomfort, stiffness, and limited mobility for your dog. Insufficient space in the crate may prevent your dog from stretching, changing positions, or engaging in natural behaviors. Finally, a cramped or confining crate can lead to anxiety and stress for your Golden Retriever , resulting in behavioral issues or reluctance to enter the crate. A crate offers several benefits for both you and your Golden Retriever. Crates provide a secure and private space where your Golden Retriever can retreat when they need rest or alone time. The crate helps build a routine and provides a designated area for your dog. Crating your Golden Retriever when unsupervised can prevent them from engaging in destructive behaviors, such as chewing furniture or household items. Finally, a crate will give your dog safety and prevent distractions while traveling in a car or an airplane. Benefits Of Crate Training Crate training can present many benefits, such as accelerating house training. The crate helps establish a routine and teach your Golden Retriever to hold their bladder and bowels until they are outside. For anxious dogs, crate training can provide the safety and secure space they need to rest and feel protected. Finally, crate training also reduces separation anxiety through a cozy environment. Of course, it is important to ensure the crate is well-ventilated and meets the necessary travel requirements and airline approvals. Ideally, you want to start crate training when your Golden Retriever is still a puppy. Puppies are more adaptable and open to learning. However, that being said, crate training can be successful at any age. Make it more comfortable by providing toys, blankets, and treats. Step 2: Once your pup is at ease, close the door and bring toys and treats inside. Keep an eye on them and let them out if they become distressed. Step 3: Increase the time your puppy spends in the crate with the door closed gradually, and step away from the crate while they are distracted. Step 4: Extend the time you are away from the crate. Remember, crate training requires patience , consistency, and positive reinforcement. Make it comfortable! Add a soft and washable bedding for your Golden Retriever to rest on inside the crate. Never rush the introduction phase. Always introduce the crate slowly, allowing your dog to explore and associate it with positive experience. They should always see the crate as a positive place to be. Clean the crate regularly. Opting for washable beddings makes it easy to maintain the crate. You should also wipe down any surface after use, especially for temporary or transportation crates. Remember to use safe and gentle cleaning products. Provide toys and chewable treats for your dog when they get in the crate. This will engage their mind and keep them entertained. Make sure you put the crate in a quiet, sheltered and well-ventilated spot inside your home. Poor placement of your crate may cause stress for your dog. Conclusion Choosing the right crate size for your Golden Retriever is crucial for their comfort, safety, and effective training. Measure your dog accurately and consider their age when selecting a crate. Bear in mind that crates can come in a variety of materials, so it is important to familiarize yourself with the pros and cons of each crate type. It may be worth having more than one crate if you suspect they will need to cover different purposes. Finally, crate training your Golden Retriever provides numerous benefits, both for your dog and for you. Generally, it is recommended not to exceed hours for adult dogs. Should I crate my Golden Retriever at night? Crate training your Golden Retriever at night can help with house training and provide a safe space for them. However, ensure the crate is appropriately sized, comfortable, and placed in a quiet area. Is it better for dogs to sleep in crate or bed? Some dogs feel more secure and comfortable in a crate, while others may prefer sleeping in a bed. What age can dogs stop sleeping in crate? The age at which dogs can stop sleeping in a crate varies. Some dogs may be ready to sleep outside the crate as early as months as they are fully house trained too. Others may benefit from longer crate usage as their house training progresses. Most pet carriers are designed with safety features that protect your dog from injury during travel, such as secure latches and ventilation. Additionally, many airlines require pets to be transported in an approved carrier that meets certain size and weight restrictions. It is always best to consult with a veterinarian or animal transportation specialist for advice on safe and comfortable ways to transport your dog. Galen has been connecting quality Golden Retriever breeders with loving families since and is the founder of My Golden Retriever Puppies. He and his wife have four children and love spending time together, traveling lived oversees for 4 years , enjoying the outdoors and connecting Golden families. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Too large or too small and it will not be fit for purpose. You have to get this just right. This article will discuss all these factors so that by the end you will be highly informed and confident in making the correct buying decision. A crate should be just big enough for your dog to stand up without hitting their head, to turn around comfortably, and provide room to lay on their side with their paws stretched out before them. This is an unnecessary waste of money. Many brands of dog crates have dividers available that can be used to reduce the available space of a larger crate to suit a puppy. The divider is a removable panel you can place inside the crate to reduce the space to suit the size of your dog. So my advice is to buy a crate large enough to suit an adult Golden retriever, then use a divider to scale it down to a size that suits a puppy. This will save you money in the long run. However, the best way to know what size crate your Golden Retriever needs is to measure their size and buy the crate that best fits. Add 4 inches and this is the height of the crate you want to purchase so your Golden can comfortably sit or stand inside without hitting their head on the ceiling. Secondly, have your dog stand on all fours and referring to the picture, take measurement B, from the base of their tail to the tip of their nose. Again, add 4 inches and this is the perfect length of the crate for your Golden to be able to lay down comfortably without being cramped. So to summarise, your Golden needs a crate of height A plus 4 inches, and of length B plus 4 inches. So now you will be able to get exactly the right size crate for your adult Golden Retriever. But how about buying a crate for a puppy? As previously discussed, I recommend you purchase a crate for an adult Golden and use a divider to make it suit your puppy, thereby doing away with the need to upgrade to increasingly bigger crates 3 or 4 times during their first 18 months. But if you do wish to have crates just right for your puppy without the use of a divider, please take measurements as detailed in the previous section to guide you in your buying decision. And be prepared to upgrade and replace every 4 or so months as they grow. The sheer number of different styles of dog crates on the market is quite startling. There are crates made of wire, plastic, wood, cloth, and many more besides. As explained on www. There is still some variety of styles available within this one type: Some have a single door, some have two or three. Most have a removable plastic tray at the base…but not all. But with these choices aside, what are the pros and cons of a wire crate: The Advantages Of A Wire Dog Crate Very strong, durable and long-lasting Very easy to keep clean Most have a slide out tray as a base that makes cleaning after accidents very easy make sure to look for this feature when buying! Folding ones are available for easy storage or moving the crate They allow the maximum flow of air compared to other styles, making them most suitable to hotter climates. They allow maximum visibility of the surroundings to the dog inside. This can be important for some dogs. Dividers are readily available for most models so you can buy a large one and re-size it for a puppy instead of replacing it as they grow. Though you can of course cover them if necessary. They are one of the easiest types to escape from if your dog is a budding Houdini! They are noisy if placed on solid surfaces and you have a fidgety dog.

Margaret O. I could not be happier. A mentally healthy dog is so important. Our little guy came to us in an unexpected unique way. After a previous family was unable to take him, Jeff called us and asked if we were interested in coming out to meet the puppy that same day! They are willing to sit and talk through any questions you have, they give you a lot of information about the breed, and what to expect when you bring your puppy home. Another big plus for us was seeing that the kennels were clean and all the dogs that we saw looked very healthy. Our puppy was the sweetest when he first met us! He ran up to us, showered us in puppy kisses, and was just overall a happy chill little dude. He just had his first vet appointment and was given a clean bill of health! He is sweet, gentle, and such a fast learner! I have never met any dog with this level of intelligence and at such a young age! We have only had him for 6 days and he has settled in so quick and has already learned basic commands. Thank you so much Jeff and Rhonda for our new little addition to our family! When we first went to meet with them and take a peek at Adrian and Barus litter, we liked that they had all the dogs in the home and the home was clean!!! Adrian had a calm temperament as well as the rest of the dogs. Caught on extremely quick w the training and is extremely good with our young grandchildren. We definitely chose the right breeders. Good communication and great canine genetics are obvious! Response from the owner Thank you so much April for the kind words. Rhonda and I try very hard to make things special for our puppy families. Pride and integrity means everything to us. Rhonda takes care of pupies like her own kids! We have 3 of their dogs one male that is the puppy of untox and panja. H gets to play fight likes that and playing with his ball. Rhonda was spectacular to work with, detailed and friendly. She is one of the most intelligent, healthy puppies we have ever owned and her temperament with our family is world class. When we were looking for a puppy we met with Rhonda and could not of been happier. There dogs were so well behaved, stunningly gorgeous and just wanted to be loved. Exactly what my wife and I were looking for. We all no there is never any guarantees in life when it comes to purchasing a puppy, but I can say we have a true champion in our little Bella. She has been a total blessing since we got her. Thanks Rhonda and Jeff!! Response from the owner. We specialize in family companion dogs, and our dogs are used for children with Autism and Aspergers. We also provide dogs for epileptic and diabetic detection, as well the hearing impaired. Our dogs also serve as companions to veterans , and we work closely with VA hospitals to provide dogs who assist with PTSD and anxiety. A large number of our dogs are also competitors and working schutzhund dogs. We make use of a private courier service to pick up and deliver our dogs. We're very mindful to ensure the dogs are completely happy throughout the delivery! If we think you're the right match for one of our dogs we can deliver them to you wherever you are based in the US. All of our dogs come with a lifetime guarantee on health contingent on meeting criteria stated in the contract. Our dogs are gentle and attentive and have dispositions perfect for family companionship or special needs. Puppies come with comprehensive training included, along with a full year of shots. A list of individual dogs accomplishments include Va Winnie, Va Ollie, V1 Saint and many dogs involved in the 6xwinner of the progeny group competition. Regis Regal German Shepherds have also worked in many different areas of public service, such as patrol dogs, search and rescue dogs, avalanche rescue dogs, bomb detection, narcotic detection, and even arson dogs. As featured in Puppy Rental for Special Events Looking for a memorable experience at your next event? Rent one of our German Shepherd dogs for a limited time at your next special event. Our team is perfect for birthdays, conferences, conventions, company retreats, and special events all over the country! Get in touch with our AKC German Shepherd breeders to learn more about our puppy rental services and event guidelines. Contact our team to learn more. Client Testimonials "I purchased my German Shepard from them when she was a puppy and she is now a beautiful, sweet tempered 4-year-old dog. We took home our pup and have had only good thoughts and things to say since we left. Cindy shared so much time and knowledge with us before we left. Axle just turned two years old and will be an important part of my kids lives as they grow up. We work closely with them in order to train our dogs to assist veterans with PTSD, anxiety, and more. Cindy's Latest Articles Cindy Kelly loves to share her expertise on breeding, training and raising world class German Shepherds. When she has time she publishes articles on the Regis Regal blog - you can find some of her most recent ones listed below. If you would like to hear Cindy's thoughts on any particular element of owning or raising German Shepherds then feel free to get in touch. Learn here! Read More Trending States Based on their Interest in our World-Class German Shepherds We make use of a high quality, private courier service to deliver our dogs where a customer is unable to come to our premises in Illinois. Best temperament, easy to train and an absolute sweetheart. However, I have an extraordinary story to share about my young pup. Mila our female puppy has a sense of medical issues. At .I typically experience these attacks once every year or two. At first, I thought maybe I spilled so food or something on my shirt, so I changed my shirt, but she continued. Then a little over an hour later, I had an attack. Mila did not leave my side for the entire time. No matter what way I tried to lay in bed to get comfortable she would move her body to press up against my gallbladder. Normally she is crated at night and does great, no whining or anything.Having her warm body and the slight pressure of her body next to me really actually helped. The next day I was back to normal, and Mila went to her crate for bed no problem. We are a breeder of top, world-class quality German Shepherd puppies of West German bloodlines with impeccable Temperaments and type. If you are looking for a German Shepherd puppy or an adult dog suitable for confirmation, obedience, therapy, assistance dog, search and rescue, K-9 training, schutzhund or for the ever present loyal companion.Occasionally, we do have long coat German Shepherd puppies available as well. All litters are raised in our home, well socialized and each held and cuddled several times a day. The result is a pup that is comfortable around people, children, vehicles and other animals. It is not uncommon for our puppies to be housebroken by the time they leave our house. I have been actively showing and breeding since , and have always had West German lines. I use the pronoun "I", but could not do this without backup from my family. I breed because I love German Shepherds. Quality German Shepherd breeders follow the German rules. With my puppies, I strive to improve this wonderful breed. This is not how I make my living, but how I choose to spend my time. Vollmond's Laro Our German Shepherd puppies are all wormed, given the appropriate shots, and Vet checked before leaving to go to their new families. We also offer puppy foundation training in obedience and Shutzhund training, ring training and show support. Please call for details. Vollmond's Laro is a Karo son out of our own breeding to Vollmond's Eika. We are Proud to say he is a 2nd generation Vollmond dog!! Vollmond's Kai - First Time Swimming For therapy or just exercise, swimming is great for german shepherds. Kai has been swimming to supplement his regular exercise at a terrific new place with an indoor, heated, resistance pool specifically designed for canine therapy and exercise. You can order yours today at or Use order code number Quick Links. Yellow laying in the grass with a squeaky toy. Green chasing Yellow Green in a gait. Green standing watch. With the rainy weather this past weekend, we waited until today to get some outside photos. Green and Yellow enjoyed running in the yard after only playing inside the past couple of days. The puppies are just over 12 weeks old in the following pictures. Green in a slow gait. Yellow looking at me. Yellow looking to see what Green is up to. Green watching Yellow. Green laying with the rope. Yellow running away. Green still in a full run. Yellow sitting and watching what we're doing. Yellow watching Green watching mom. The puppies are now 11 weeks old, but with the colder weather we did inside pictures this weekend. The puppies are full of energy and love playing with each other and with us. We received updates and photos from a couple of the puppies who left at 8 weeks and included a couple of photos of them too. The puppies are 11 weeks old in the following pictures. Red taking over from Yellow playing tug with Kona. Yellow chewing on the rope from the ball tug. Yellow and Red playing tug with the ball tug. Orange with her new toy before heading to her new home. Red and Yellow playing with the duck. Green joining in with Red and Yellow. Red carrying an empty plastic bottle. Red chewing on the bottle. Green with a squeaky toy. Green on the move. Red with the ball tug. Yellow with the ball tug. Yellow chasing Red. Penny pink with big brother Rusty. Yavi purple with big sister Mila. Another nice day outside with the puppies. What could be more fun! It was a bit warm for them, so they went looking for shade quite often. They are growing nicely and love playing with each other and with their mom, Kona. The puppies are 10 weeks old in the following pictures. Orange running with the ball and rope. Yellow carrying the squeaky parrot. Green in mid-stride. Orange carrying the rope ball. Yellow playing with a plastic egg. Yelow with the squeaky parrot again. Orange in a very nice gait. Green running back. Yellow and Green looking for shade under chairs. Yellow and Orange playing with their mom Kona. Kona with Orange Red chewing on the rope attached to the ball. Yellow playing with Kona. With the nice weather, the puppies get to play outside every day. We heard from the families of the puppies who are in their new homes, and they are all doing great. Many have other pets in the home and they are all getting along wonderfully. A couple of photos below are from their new homes. Orange and Yellow females , Green and Red males are still available and love exploring the yard during outside playtime! The puppies are 9 weeks old in the following pictures. Orange carrying the water bottle duck. Yellow and Orange competing for the duck. Yellow comes away with it this time. Red following Green with the duck. Orange carrying a bottle with someone coming from her left. Ah, aunt Rain checking on what Orange has. Orange standing watching the others. Orange still has excellent focus! Yellow gaiting over towards us. Green running over to the toys. Red standing and watching.Red heading over to see aunt Rain. Green with a bottle and Orange walking away. Green heading over to see me. Red carrying the duck. Green is intrigued by the duck Red has. Green tring to grab the duck as Red moves away with it. Green and Red lookin at the toys. Some photos were taken before some of the puppies left, and others after. Orange and Yellow females and Green and Red males are still available. Our neighbors visited again with their one-year-old son, Brooks, and the puppies were as gentle as ever. We are proud to say that this litter has exceptional temperaments. The puppies are 8 weeks old in the following pictures. Purple playing with the stuffed duck. Purple just watching the others. Red and Purple sharing a stuffed toy. Blue laying on his side while chewing on a toy. Green chewing on a rope ball. Black, Yellow and Red sharing the toy. Orange with a stuffed toy. Black, Orange and Green with the duck. Green with a squeeky parrot. Black carrying the squeeky parrot. Black and Orange with the duck this litter's favorite toy Green alongside Black who is chewing on a toy. Black sitting near Red. Black carrying a water bottle. Green sitting and watching the action. Red chewing on the water bottle. Green picking up the treat ball with Orange and Black trying to get it too. You can barely make out Black's nose under Green. Red wondering what I'm doing. Yellow chewing on the duck. Red holding the parrot. Black Red Kona's puppies are 7 weeks old and becoming more confident. They love playing with their mom but like to gather at out feet. We had several families visit over the weekend and they all fell in love with our adorable German Shepherd pups. The puppies are 7 weeks old in the following pictures. Orange and Yellow carrying a rope tug. Pink checking out a chew toy. Green following the other puppies. Pink chewing on a rope ball. Blue watching Orange with the stuffed toy. We have answers. Dogs can vary in cost based on several factors such as pedigree, coat type, coat color white German Shepherd puppies for sale in Chicago , breeder experience, and more. Will I be connected with local Chicago German Shepherd breeders only? Our partners are highly experienced in making travel arrangements for puppies all over the nation, and will happily arrange for you to meet your new friend at your nearest major airport. How can I be sure a German Shepherd puppy for sale in Chicago is ethically raised? We totally get that finding a trustworthy breeder is and should be one of your top priorities, which is why we take vetting and screening so seriously. We do not breed our own dogs. Instead, we act as a matchmaker between dog-lovers like you and awesome Chicago German Shepherd breeders and German Shepherd companies around the nation. Can I meet any Chicago German Shepherd puppies that may be a fit for me? Do you have dogs available right now? With the size of our network, there are almost always puppies available. To take the first step on the road to meeting your new best friend, all you have to do is begin your MatchMaker process below. How does your service work? With those preferences in mind, our team is able to connect you with the perfect litters, business or breeders throughout our network, putting you in touch with exactly the right person to make your dream dog a reality. Can I be sure Uptown is trustworthy? Our Breeder Pledge ensures only the best companies and breeders make it through our vetting process, meaning we help you avoid all those nasty online puppy scams. Wondering what a difference ethical breeding can make? Take a look at some of our Puppy Alumni! Our goal is to be the best and that means breeding the best German Shepherds in the country. People travel from as far as Alaska, and even from across the Atlantic, to see and purchase our pups. We also take German Shepherd pups from all over the world to professionally train in basic or advanced obedience training as well as personal protection and protection work training. But, no matter where our new pups go or where people come from to have their pups trained, Vom Ragnar is proud to be a part of the Chicago community and will always consider Chicago to be our home base. We are equally committed to maintaining a healthy business relationship with the city of Chicago and the surrounding communities. Or you can email us at vomragnar gmail. Our German Shepherd litters of Puppies for sale are excellent with kids and other pets and of course, perfect for the families. Our puppies have super temperament character. The rich black and red color and of course is pure breed, German Shepherd. We specialize in German Shepherd litters of Puppies for sale for Family, companionship show dogs or working dogs. We are now can ship our German shepherd litters of puppies, young dogs or adult dogs for sale worldwide. For easy to locate and drive to our Kenny, please use the Google Map below: For more information about seeing our puppies at kennel facility, please complete the form to make an appointment or simply call us at .Your Name required.

Labrador Feeding Questions Here are some common questions that Lab owners have when deciding how much to feed their dogs. Can I feed my Labrador once a day? Feeding frequency for dogs, including Labradors, can vary depending on various factors such as age, activity level, and overall health. While some dogs may do well with one meal a day, it is generally recommended to divide their daily food intake into two or more meals. Labradors, in particular, are known to have a tendency to overeat and become overweight. Feeding them once a day can lead to hunger and potentially encourage them to eat too quickly or excessively in one sitting. This can increase the risk of bloating, a potentially life-threatening condition. It also provides a more consistent energy level throughout the day. They can consider factors such as age, weight, activity level, and any underlying health conditions to provide tailored feeding recommendations. How much should I feed my overweight Labrador? Feeding an overweight Labrador requires careful portion control and a balanced diet. This will serve as a reference point for developing a weight loss plan. Choose a high-quality, low-calorie diet: Opt for a balanced dog food that is specifically formulated for weight management. These diets are lower in calories while still providing essential nutrients. Follow portion control: Follow the feeding guidelines provided on the dog food packaging, but keep in mind that these are general recommendations. Your veterinarian can help you determine the appropriate portion size. Monitor treats and table scraps: Limit or eliminate high-calorie treats and table scraps, as they can contribute to weight gain. Consider a gradual weight loss approach: Rapid weight loss is not ideal for dogs and can have negative health effects. This slow and steady approach is healthier and more sustainable. Regular exercise: Along with a controlled diet, regular exercise is essential for weight management. Consult with your veterinarian about appropriate exercise routines for your Labrador, taking into account their current weight and any existing health conditions. Should I feed my Labrador twice a day? Yes, feeding a Labrador twice a day is generally recommended for optimal health and digestion. Splitting their daily food intake into two meals helps to promote better digestion, prevent overeating, and maintain a consistent energy level throughout the day. Labradors have a tendency to overeat and become overweight, so dividing their meals can help control portion sizes and prevent excessive food consumption in one sitting. It also helps to regulate their metabolism and prevent hunger pangs. By feeding your Labrador twice a day, you can provide them with a more balanced and manageable feeding routine. It allows for better absorption of nutrients and reduces the risk of digestive issues such as bloating or stomach discomfort. Foods to Avoid for Labrador Providing leftovers to your Labrador can be harmful to its health because there are some foods that dog parents should avoid giving their dogs. Chocolate is rich in a stimulant known as theobromine, which is somehow similar to caffeine, which is why it is poisonous for the Labrador. The number of stimulants may depend on the type of chocolate. This caffeine-like stimulant directly affects the heart and central nervous system of the Labrador. It may also cause some kidney issues even within 24 hours of eating chocolate. Vomiting, along with diarrhea, is a side effect of chocolate. Many vegetables are highly suitable for the health of Labradors, but onions and garlic are never allowed. Both of these can be toxic even if eaten in small quantities. Therefore, while cooking homemade food for Labradors, you must avoid garlic and onion. Alcohol is another harmful and toxic food item for dogs. If your pup consumes it even in small quantities, it may suffer from vomiting and diarrhea. Moreover, alcoholic beverages also cause depression, a shortage of oxygen, tumors, and blood change. Moldy foods and trash: Bread, nuts, some dairy products, and moldy foods are rich in toxins that cause illness. Take extra precautions to make sure that your Lab cannot access any moldy food. Best Food for Labradors When choosing a food for your Lab, of course cost is an issue. Labs are big dogs that eat a lot of food. Of course we want to spoil our furry friends, but buying the most expensive food on the market is not necessary. In fact, buy a good quality middle-of-the-list food, and even if you can afford more expensive food, put that money away for any unexpected veterinary expenses. Also, counseling the vet before choosing canine food can be a sound methodology for your Labrador retriever. No products found. As always, your veterinarian is a great resource for Lab feeding information. More Lab Information. Following the Labrador feeding chart by age will give you a rough idea of how much to feed your puppy. Labradors are known for their playfulness, and sweet disposition, and are good at fetch which is why you should provide them with the best nutrition to support their growth. Ensure that the food contains the right amounts of protein, carbs, fat, and vitamins. You should avoid feeding your Labrador puppy too much food as they are prone to joint issues, but also avoid feeding them less food as they will be malnourished and not reach their growth milestones. Continue reading to understand how much to feed a Labrador puppy. The amount of food that your Labrador puppy should eat depends on a combination of certain factors such as activity level, weight, type, and brand of food. Heavier and bigger puppies need to eat more food than smaller puppies, and dogs that have active lives will need more calories than those living sedentary life. Fortunately, all dog food contains a feeding guideline on the packaging to get you started. It is important that you create and maintain a feeding schedule for your puppy so that they can maintain a healthy weight and develop good habits. Consult your pet nutritionist or vet, to learn more about how much food you should give your specific Labrador. Labrador Feeding Chart By Age A Labrador can be fed between one and six cups of food depending on their level of activity, age, and type of food. The amount will differ from one puppy to the other as every puppy has there own requirements. Therefore, you should follow a feeding guideline that is indicated in the dog food brands or the one designed by your vet. As a Labrador owner, it is important to understand that the nutritional requirements of your puppy are different at each stage as they grow. Therefore, adult and puppy dogs should be trained to eat the correct amount at the right schedule. Ensure that you keep a Labrador puppy feeding chart with you. Calculating the Resting Energy Requirement RER of your puppy and doubling it can help you get the right number of calories to feed them. Feed your puppy a little amount, in the beginning, to ensure that they are ready to eat. If they are not ready, do not force the food on them. Be patient with your puppy and they will be on puppy food soon. The puppy will be relying less on the milk. When your puppy starts eating all the food you offer them, you can reduce the amount of water and increase the food amount. The puppy will start becoming active and start exploring away from the mother as they no longer rely on the mother. By the end of the week into week seven, the puppy will be able to eat just puppy food. Ensure that you feed them dry food that is full of healthy protein. They should be eating three to four times per day and need about 2 cups of food. Avoid free feeding the puppy as it may be hard to know exactly how much they are eating. Create a feeding schedule as early as possible and this will help them develop good habits in the future. Put the food out for only 10 to 15 minutes and take the bowl away if they do not finish. This can be tricky if you are working but it is important that you maintain their feeding schedule as this is a developmental stage. Three meals per day will help your growing puppy develop their digestive system and ensure that they are getting their nutrition. This is also the beginning of the teething stage and they will be biting a lot of things including hard dog food and chew toys. They should eat about two cups of food distributed over three meals. But you should still maintain feeding them two cups of food but can reduce the mealtimes to twice per day. Watch out for the amount of food your puppy eats to avoid them gaining weight. Also, ensure that they are getting enough exercise to burn off the food. So, you should transition them to adult food. Ensure that the switching process is done slowly to avoid causing vomiting and diarrhea to your puppy. Your Labrador can be fed once per day now and the amount reduced to about two cups of food. Understanding Labrador Puppy Nutritional Needs If you stick to feeding your Labrador high-quality food, be assured that they are getting all the necessary nutrients. However, it is useful to know the types of nutrients that they need and the ingredients to watch out for. Carbohydrates — healthy carbs are necessary for providing energy for your puppy. Sources like barley, rice, and oatmeal are great. Healthy carbs can also be found in veggies such as sweet potatoes, peas, and lentils. Fiber — it helps regulate the digestive system of your puppy and helps the stool become healthier and firm. Sources include spinach, chicory root, and beet pulp. Sources include fish oils, fish, canola oils, and fish. Vitamins and Minerals — are needed for improving the immune system which helps in protecting your puppy from diseases. Veggies and real fruits like cranberries and blueberries are great sources. The frequency of feeding your Labrador depends mostly on their age. Puppies need to eat three to four times per day while senior and adult Labradors can eat one to two times per day. Labrador is a breed that is motivated by food, meaning that the chance of them turning down food is low. Given their nature, it can be difficult to figure out whether they are really hungry or just food obsessed. Since they cannot regulate their eating habits, it is important that you develop a feeding schedule to prevent them from gaining weight. Both types of food provide your dog with the best nutrition they need to grow and develop. Also, check the label on the packaging and make sure that it contains the perfect balance of protein, fats, and carbohydrates. Kibble is cheaper than wet foods and stores easily as it does not require refrigeration. It also helps clean the teeth by removing tartar and buildup when your puppy chews it. Wet food also provides balanced and complete nutrition for your Labrador. It provides more hydration to your puppy as it contains high moisture content. However, wet food needs to be put in the fridge once opened otherwise it will go bad. Some dog owners mix wet food and kibble to give their dogs the best of both worlds. Therefore, most premium dog food brands have different specially formulated puppy food. Puppies can be fed with puppy food until they are about 12 to 15 months old then transition to adult dog food. When transitioning your dog from puppy food to adult dog food remember to introduce the feed gradually for about seven to ten days by mixing small amounts of the adult dog food with the puppy food. Decrease the puppy food gradually every day with a simultaneous increase in adult dog food. This will helps the pup o adjust to the new meal easily. Experienced Labrador Retriever owners will tell you that not all puppies eat a lot. Studies also have indicated that puppies eat more when fed with other puppies or in a group. When the puppy gets to a new home, they might go off the food for the first few days. They might eat a few kibbles and then leave it. Your puppy may also prefer to eat from your hand and not the bowl. However, call your vet if your puppy refuses to eat for more than four hours. Call immediately if your puppy looks unwell. There are a few reasons you need to keep an eye on because they indicate serious problems: Your pup neither drink nor eat Diarrhea. Remember, Labs do not have a natural food intake regulator so you will need to monitor them with portion control. Using a cheaper brand is a poor option at half the price. You will use twice as much and you will have to clean up larger amounts of waste in your yard. To allow for an accurate control of body weight and growth rate, this amount of food can be dispensed over 3 meals per day. After 5 months of age, the feeding regularity can be reduced to two meals per day with the commensurate increase in food quantity. The amount of food a Labrador puppy requires will increase then level out during first 14 months of their life. At months, their bone density is increasing and their growth plates are set. We do not recommend desexing you pup until at least 3 years of age. This allows for an appropriate development and supply of hormone which in turn produces proper bone, muscle and vital organ development. Table foods dispensed randomly to dogs are not nutritionally balanced. We do not offer our dogs table food at all. There will be no problems if you are feeding a puppy with a homemade diet but it should be prepared from prescribed recipes that are nutritionally complete and balanced. Diets consisting of an unplanned and indiscriminate mixture of human foods particularly including carbohydrates will likely result in obesity and even dietary-induced disease. When you Lab reaches 14months of age, it should be given an adult food that contains less energy and calcium. This will decrease the risk of obesity and orthopaedic conditions. And do not feed them coffee or tea as they can contain caffeine, theobromine, and theophylline. These toxic substances can dangerously affect the heart and nervous system. Onions, garlic, raisins and grapes can be severely toxic in labradors. Raw meat is potential source of parasites and pathogenic bacteria for your puppy. Eggs yokes are an excellent source of protein. Raw eggs contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin a B vitamin. This can, in extreme cease, lead to skin and coat problems. Liver contains higher levels of protein, fats, carbohydrates, minerals and vitamins. Raw liver can be a source of parasites and pathogenic bacteria. Excessive amounts of liver can cause Vitamin A toxicity. Raw bone chewing will control tartar buildup on a pups teeth. However, bone chewing can cause intestinal blockages and perforations. Never use cooked bones. Commercial Puppy Foods Most commercial puppy foods are designated for small, medium, large and giant breeds. This designation can be found on the label. Puppies of medium sized breeds are less than '25 kg fully grown adult body weight'. A full grown and lean Labrador will usually weigh between 25kg and 45kg. We feed our dogs at the 'lower' level of the recommended range. The 'Hills Body Fat Index' is a very helpful body shape indicator. The same food as the bitch You should feed your new puppy with the same brand of food as the bitch received during lactation. From 2 weeks into pregnancy, our expectant mothers are fed 'Royal Canin Labrador Puppy' food. Introducing a new brand of food If you are wanting to introduce a new brand of food to your puppy, then blend it gradually with the existing brand in increasing amounts over 3 days. This should prevent food rejection and any kind of gastric upset. It is best to choose a diet designed for large breed puppies. Selected commercial feeds should contain a limited percentage of filler compounds. Pawlinglabs uses Royal Canin Labrador as our preferred option. Growing labradors Labrador pups have a very steep growth curve, and their total daily energy needs do increase as they grow. Calculate the amount of puppy food that will satisfy that need. The feeding guidelines on the commercial pet food label provides an estimated quantity of feed for several different ranges in body size. These instructions will give you an estimated starting point for the particular brand. Medium or large? Medium breeds should be transitioned to an adult diet by 12 months of age, while large breeds between 14 — 18 months of age. Mature female labradors are medium and weight approx kg. Mature males are large and weight approx kg. Their calcium and energy content should not exceed that level recommended by a registered nutritionalist. Sound skeletal development Sound skeletal development in labradors is produced by the interaction of genetic, environmental, and nutritional factors. The phase prior to weaning and the growth phase, up to 14 months are integral to sound skeletal structure. Don't take your young pup on extended distance walks and certainly not 'running' until at least 18mths of age. You must avoid stairs and slippery floors for the same reasons. Their growth plates are set at about mths of age. Feeding and Overfeeding Large breeds like Labradors are the most susceptible to skeletal disease. Feed consumption, nutrients balance and feeding methods influence our ability to produce sound skeletal development and eliminate skeletal disease. Appropriate food consumption and nutrition plays a critical role in bone development. Overfeeding will not increase or benefit the growth rate of young and growing labrador puppies. And it does not correlate with optimal adult size. However, it does increase the risk of skeletal abnormalities. The vast majority of skeletal disorders occur in large breeds including labradors and they are associated with consumption of table food and an excessive intake of a commercial food and supplementation. The large breeds like labradors are limited in their ability to cope with an excess of minerals such as calcium. The result of this over consumption is abnormal bone development and skeletal disorders. Nutritional management will be critical in the to prevention of bone and joint diseases. In most cases, skeletal disease can prevented by appropriate quantities of feed in a regulated diet with optimal nutrient levels. A complete and balanced commercial diet is essential. Dietary deficiencies will be of little concern if your labrador pup is fed with a complete and balanced commercial diet. Brands like Eukanuba and Royal Canin are specifically formulated for young, growing labradors. There is real potential for harm by over feeding and giving additional supplementation. Housing safety and activity levels Housing safety and activity levels are under the your influence. Nutrition is also under your control and it is the single most important factor affecting the development of the musculoskeletal system. Energy, protein, and calcium are the critical nutritional components affecting skeletal development. However, if they are given in excess, they will be detrimental to normal bone and joint growth. Most pet owners feed commercial dog food. These prepared diets are balanced and complete. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. How often and what time to feed I will show you the best puppy foods, whether dry, wet, or raw, and look at food safety, together with schedules, quantities and even a handy puppy diet chart. Best Puppy Food for Labs The best Labrador puppy food provides a diet that is nutritious, healthy, and tasty. So, what is the best puppy food for your Lab? Puppy kibble or dried food is the most popular option. Kibble is complete and can give a perfectly balanced diet. Puppy kibble and tinned dog meat combined is another common choice among puppy parents. Feeding your Labrador puppy on home cooked food or on a totally raw diet is also possible. Raw puppy food is growing in popularity, and there are pros and cons to raw feeding your puppy. People often feel very strongly that one way of feeding is better than another, and you can always find evidence to support your view. Dog breeders, veterinarians and even nutritionists have their own strong views. The dire consequences they list for not listening to them can have puppy owners very worried. The truth is that there is no good quality evidence showing that kibble is better for the long term health of your dog, or that raw feeding is better. There are risks and benefits to both, and the main thing is to ensure that your dog has good quality food to eat. Puppy kibble suits some better, and raw puppy food is better for others. Puppy Kibble for your Labrador Puppy food made into pellets is called kibble. An airtight plastic container or tin will do the job, although you should make sure it is food grade quality. Puppy kibble is the best way of feeding your Labrador according to most breeders and your veterinarian is most likely to support this method of feeding. Good puppy kibble will contain every nutrient your Labrador puppy needs in order to grow and remain healthy. The kibble pieces will be tasty, good for keeping teeth healthy, and free from additives that can provoke allergies or stomach problems. Labrador puppy kibble only needs to be fed next to water. Puppy kibble from a reputable manufacturer is intended to be a complete and balanced food. But some owners like to mix in canned dog food or even scraps of raw food with kibble. Your puppy is likely to get an upset stomach or to not have the right balance of nutrition when fed this way. Whether you decide to feed only with kibble or you want to mix it up, pick a good dried food manufacturer and stick with them. Feeding your Labrador puppy raw food has its benefits and drawbacks. One of the downsides is that there is a lot to learn. Here is a link to the articles you need to help you decide whether or not raw feeding is for you: Although I like the raw diet for my dogs, most puppies fed kibble go on to have long and healthy lives. Whatever puppy food you choose, the most important thing is portion control. How Much to Feed your Labrador Puppy? People often tell me how much their puppy weighs, and ask how much puppy food they should give him. Your Labrador is particularly at risk if they grow too quickly. The following diet chart is for kibble fed puppies and does not apply to raw fed pups. It gives you an idea of how much to feed your Labrador puppy Lab Puppy Feeding Chart The Lab puppy feeding chart below is only a very rough guide. The quantity of food you need for your puppy will vary depending on your puppy and on the brand of food you are feeding him. Labrador puppy food must be aimed at medium to large breed dogs. Check the pack carefully and look at the dietary charts. Ideally, you want the optimal protein content and the lowest amount of additives. Part of this always comes down to the cost. The healthiest puppy food is usually the most expensive and may not be affordable for some families. The Cost Of Puppy Food Some puppy food brands are more concentrated than and contain a higher proportion of proteins, essential oils, and other nutrients. The absence of these fillers means that you can often feed lower quantities of more costly food, making them less expensive than they first seem. You might also find that cheaper brands make your puppy poop more due to those extra fillers going straight through him. While some brands are beyond the budget of many families, it is usually good to buy a premium brand. High Quality Brands of Puppy Food Some brands of puppy food have developed a reputation for producing a high quality product and have many devoted supporters, including breeders that have fed them to generations of puppies. Before adopting a Labrador Retriever puppy, many owners go to great lengths to deduce the optimal food for their pup. From raw feed to canned food from a local pet store, there are plenty of dog food options for owners to consider, but which is the best dog food? Whether you feed your puppy a raw food diet or commercial dog foods, there are lots of ways for your pup to consume a balanced diet. There are plenty of sources that will describe the benefits of one diet over another, but remember that no one knows your puppy better than you. The decision to feed your dog a diet that you think is best is yours to make. There really is no right or wrong answer when it comes to selecting a food for your puppy. Your pooch will likely enjoy eating wet food just as much as they enjoy commercial dog food. So long as you feed your pup an adequate amount of food, they are likely to live a long and healthy life. If you would like specific advice about feeding your individual puppy, you may wish to consult with your veterinarian or other dog food expert. When you first bring your puppy home, it can be alarming if your dog does not touch its puppy food during the first few days at home. Is this cause for concern? Noticing that your precious pup is not eating can be a frightening realization. Prior to being welcomed to its forever home, your Lab puppy was accustomed to living with its mother and siblings. Therefore, being uprooted from this life can initially be a startling experience for a dog. Fortunately, puppies should develop an appetite within a day or two of entering their forever home-they just need a short time to adjust to their new life. If, after a few days, your puppy is still not eating their dog food, it may be a wise idea to have your puppy evaluated by a vet. Feeding A Two-Month-Old Labrador Retriever Two months old is about the earliest point at which a Labrador puppy can be brought home by their new family. When a Labrador puppy begins to eat solid food, it will not be eating a ton of food. So, owners can start their Lab puppy off with somewhere around 0. As your puppy grows older and gets bigger, owners should look to increase the amount of food for their Labrador pup. By the time a puppy is nearing three months old, it should be eating well over 1 cup of food every day. Some puppies may be consuming close to two cups of dog food at this time. This increase in size means that their appetite has also surely grown since bringing them home. By the time a Labrador puppy is around 3 months old, it should be eating close to 1. Large three-month-old Labrador puppies can be away a substantial amount of food as they are near four months old. Some puppies will be able to consume around 3 cups of food daily at this point in their lives, but most will be eating closer to 2 cups of dog food every day. If your pup seems hungry and looks to be a healthy weight, there is no need for owners to be concerned about how much food their three-month-old Lab is consuming. Your precious pooch will start to look more like an adult with each passing day. Therefore, it is essential to feed your dog enough food to promote the weight gain that makes dogs thrive. Four-month-old Labrador Retrievers should be given at least two cups of food daily. The biggest, most ravenous Labs will eat close to 3. However, only dogs on the large end of the puppy spectrum will need to eat this much at this time. Average four to five-month-old Labs should eat anywhere from 2 to 3 cups of food daily. Labrador Retriever teenagers are characterized by disproportionate body parts, distracted behavior, and dispositions that range from silly to ornery. Therefore, getting enough food to support such development is imperative. A six-month-old Labrador will surely be able to eat at least 2. This will ensure proper growth for your pooch. As your puppy reaches the point in which it is 7 to 8 months old, continue to increase the amount of food that your puppy receives. Labrador Retriever puppies that are close to 9 months old can eat more than 4 cups of food daily. However, your furry friend is more likely to consume 2. Instead, your pup is likely nearing its adult size. So, how much food should ten to twelve-month-old Labs be eating? Puppies that consume quantities of food on the low end of the spectrum should be consuming at least 3 cups of food every day during this time. On the other hand, large Lab pups that are between 10 to 12 months old could be eating 4. If your puppy is on the brink of adulthood, it would be wise to consider weaning it off of its puppy food in favor of adult dog food. All Lab puppies should be offered adult dog food when they reach maturity, as such food replaces nutrients that are essential for puppies with ingredients that benefit adults. Whereas puppies should eat food that increases their body weight, adult Labs should eat food that maintains their weight. So, if you think it may be time to switch your Labrador Retriever to an adult dog food diet, consult with your vet and find a food that is best for your adult Lab. Of course, the mature size of your pooch will dictate how much food it can and should be consuming every day. Generally, it is advisable to feed an adult Labrador anywhere from 3 to just over 4 cups of food every day. Gauge the weight and appetite of your pet to determine the perfect amount for your furry friend. Though the above recommendation will be perfect for most adult Labs, there are some instances in which mature Labradors will require more adult food. Pregnant Or Lactating Labs A Labrador who is pregnant or lactating will require substantial amounts of food to nourish herself and her litter of pups. Therefore, owners should be prepared to offer vast quantities of food to their Labrador mothers. While a typical adult Labrador will consume 3 to 4 cups of food every day, Labrador mothers should be offered around 6 cups of food at least to keep up with their enormous energy requirements. If your mother Labrador snarfs this food down and still seems hungry afterward, be prepared to offer her additional food. Especially Active Labs If your Labrador is an athletic specimen, it may need to consume more than a typical adult Lab to fuel the exercise regime that such a dog is accustomed to. Dogs that receive more than one hour of daily exercise could be considered especially active dogs. Owners can begin by offering these pooches 4. If they still seem hungry, owners can increase the amount of food given to these dogs. Once a dog reaches the golden years of its life, it is once again time to switch up its diet. Senior dogs should consume food that caters to the needs of their aging bodies. These pooches can get away with eating a low-protein diet whereas such food would not be appropriate for puppies or adults. Given that senior dogs are usually not especially active dogs, they do not require as much food compared to adult and large puppies. Therefore, supplying a senior Lab with anywhere from 2 to just over 3 cups of food daily should be plenty for your pooch. Now that you know how much to feed your Labrador, you are likely curious about the number of times that your dog should be fed every day. Some may be looking for a quick answer about how often to feed a Labrador every day, but the truth is nuanced. When it comes to feeding your Lab, it turns out that Labs of different ages should be fed different amounts of food every day. Read on to discover the perfect number of meals for your Lab. An infant Labrador Retriever should have its daily food allotment broken up into at least 4 meals every day. This will help supply these petite pups with the energy that they need to get through the day. Lab puppies that are four to twelve months old do not require as many meals as their younger counterparts. However, these dogs should still receive three meals per day to support their rapid metabolism. Feeding one meal in the morning, one in the afternoon, and one in the evening is optimal. Adult Labs do not need to eat as many meals are puppies due to their slower metabolisms. Supplying an adult Labrador Retriever with two meals every day would be perfect for these dogs. Ideally, adult dogs will be fed one meal in the morning and one in the evening. When your furry friend reaches the point in their life where they are considered to be a senior dog, your pooch will have the slowest metabolism in their life. The slow metabolism for senior Labs means that these dogs do not need to eat as frequently as they did when they were younger. In fact, senior Labrador Retrievers can get by with eating a single meal every day. One to two meals per day is ideal for a senior Labrador Retriever. Owners can see if their senior Lab prefers one or two meals each day by allowing them to try each option. Is this because these dogs are prone to obesity or simply because there are so many Labs out and about? It turns out that Labrador Retrievers are more prone to obesity than many other dog breeds. Labs have evolved to be very active dogs. If owners fail to provide their dogs with proper exercise and feed their furry friends excessive amounts of food, there is a good chance that owners will end up with overweight dogs. Why Is My Labrador Overweight? If you are someone who owns an overweight Labrador, you are not alone. Overweight Labs are still lovable pooches, but they could stand to lose some pounds for their own good. Obviously, feeding your dog less food is likely to be one of the keys to helping your canine companion to lose weight. However, you may be wondering what else you can do to help your Labrador lose weight. Well, if you do not frequently exercise your dog, then this is a good place to start. Try feeding your dog its typical amount of food but increasing its exercise to see if it starts to lose weight. For those that are still struggling to get your pooch to lose weight, be sure to cut out table scraps and dog treats from the diet of your dog. Moreover, be sure that you are not free feeding your Labrador Retriever. Free feeding is acceptable for puppies when they are infants, but Labradors that are any other age should not be free fed, for this can also result in a chunky pooch. If you fear that your dog is consuming its food too quickly, there are plenty of feeding methods to help your pooch slow down. Obesity in dogs is a serious issue. We briefly touched on this subject when discussing the best foods for Lab puppies, and the same advice will apply here. Some owners feed raw to their Labs, while others may feed kibble. Does this mean that those who practice raw feeding are likely to own healthier dogs compared to those feeding kibble to their dogs? Of course not! High-quality dog food may take many different forms. A raw diet could provide your dog with all of the nutrients that it needs, but it is not inherently better for your dog than dry food or homemade food. Ultimately, owners know their Lab better than anyone else, so they should have the final say regarding what to feed their dog. Deciding what to feed your Labrador can be an overwhelming prospect. Consult A Veterinarian Inquiring with a trusted veterinarian about the diet of your Labrador Retriever will help an owner determine the optimal food intake for their precious pooch. They may also recommend certain dog foods that can be purchased to feed a Labrador. A feeding chart will provide information related to how much food to provide a Lab based on its age. A feeding guide may even break down how much food to feed a Labrador based on its weight. There are plenty of Labrador Puppy feeding chart options and feeding guides for adults. Finding a feeding chart that was created by a trusted source like the American Kennel Club can help you make an informed decision about how much to feed your furry friend. Ultimately, a feeding guide is a good place to turn if you find yourself in need of a quick answer about the topic of how much to feed your Lab. Made with real meat and no artificial colors or flavors how much should a lab eat? Allergies Labs can also have allergies. Some dogs may be allergic to wheat, macadamia nuts, etc. It can manifest as a runny nose, high volumes of shedding, rashes on the skin, and so on. Different dietary needs are crucial, especially if they display allergy symptoms. Avoid all types of human foods. You can give your lab puppy supplements You can get great quality adult dog food and puppy kibble from companies like Royal Canin Labrador Retriever, Blue Buffalo, Canidae Grain-Free, etc. Only adult food must be given to labrador retrievers who have crossed 1. Your puppy needs 4 small meals consisting of half a cup of food per meal till he is 2 months old. From 2 to 6 months, he needs 3 meals daily consisting of 1 cup of food per meal. From 6 months onwards , you can give your puppy 2 meals daily of 2 cups of dog food per meal. Is This A Problem? Yes, this is a major problem! Fat dogs are adorable but also extremely unhealthy. An adult labrador retriever should weigh at most pounds. Labs that are fatter than this stand at the risk of obesity, arthritis , and other lifelong diseases. Refrain from feeding your labrador too many dog treats. Onions and garlic: surprisingly, anything in the onion and garlic family is incredibly toxic to dogs. Meat with bones: if not chewed properly, sharp edges can rupture the throat, stomach lining, intestines, and other parts of the digestive tract. Other human foods and beverages to avoid giving your dog are alcohol, sugar, citric fruits, and anything with caffeine. Your labrador retriever should weigh between 55 to 70 pounds at full adulthood. Male labs are heavier than female labs, so they can fall on either side of the optimal weight spectrum. Some healthy treats for your labrador retriever are cut fruits and vegetables. Carrots, celery, cucumber, beetroot, apples, bananas, and berries strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, cranberries, etc. Dogs also love peanut butter! Veggies dipped in peanut butter also make a great snack for your dog. This is entirely up to you as dog owners. If you have the time and patience to cook meals for your dog, go for it. Store-bought food is easier and is filled with the right nutritional requirements for your lab puppy. On the other hand, with the right recipe, home-cooked food works, too. What Should I Do? A dog growling at you when you go near his food bowl is most commonly a trauma response or a way to protect his food. We often see this with rescues. House training your lab puppy is equally important to avoid food aggression. Labrador Retrievers get piddly after their meals. Dog owners must take out their lab puppy as frequently as they eat sometimes even more often to let their energy out and adult labradors less frequently. A lab puppy needs a ton of exercise. The amount of kibble you should feed your Labrador puppy will vary depending on their age, weight, and activity level. A good rule of thumb is to start with cups of kibble daily and adjust as needed. Best Dog Food For Lab Puppies: The best dog foods for lab puppies include those that are high in protein and low in fillers. The food you should feed a black lab puppy is the same as for any other Labrador puppy. A chocolate lab puppy should be fed the same food as for any other Labrador puppy. A 2-year-old chocolate lab should eat about cups of kibble daily. You should stop feeding puppy food to your Labrador at around months of age. At this point, their growth plates will have closed, and they will no longer need the extra nutrients found in puppy food. Labradors live for years. They start to slow down around 7 and may develop some health problems in their senior years. You should also increase their exercise level. Lab breeders feed their dogs high-quality dog food specifically formulated for large-breed puppies. A lab puppy should drink about 1 ounce of water per pound of body weight daily. This amount may increase as they get older and more active. A labrador needs at least 30 minutes of exercise per day. This can be a combination of walking, running, and playing. Golden labs live for years. Chocolate labs live for years same like labs of any color. Labradors lose their baby teeth between 3 and 6 months of age. You can start to transition your puppy to eating twice a day at around 6 months of age. By the time they are 1 year old, they should eat only once daily. You should stop feeding your large breed puppy food at around 18 months of age. Why Are Labs So Hungry? Labradors are a very active breed of dog, and they need a lot of calories to fuel their energy levels. They are also prone to gaining weight, so keep a close eye on their food intake About The Author Shradha Kabra Shradha is a seasoned writer at Labradorandyou. Her experience as a pet owner and dog enthusiast drives her to create meticulously researched and fact-checked content, offering valuable insights on Labrador training, grooming, and health. Each article reflects Shradha's passion and dedication, enriched by personal experiences with her beloved Labradors, Tom, and Kurt. Whether exploring breed-specific training techniques or providing product reviews, Shradha ensures Labrador owners receive the most accurate, up-to-date, and trustworthy information, aimed at enhancing their companions' health and happiness. The best food for Labrador puppies to consume in their first two to four months of life is milk from their mother. This specialised care is usually left to trained breeders or veterinarians, who are knowledgeable in caring for pups with no mother to nurse from. If you have recently brought a Labrador puppy into your family, they are most likely older than 8 weeks, and so have started to eat solid foods. You can do this by mixing some dry food with specially formulated puppy milk to form a soft mixture. You can feed your puppy this mixture three to four times a day. Over time, you can reduce the amount of milk you include in this mixture, until they are at the point where they are happily eating dry foods. Read on to learn how much you should feed a Labrador puppy as they get older. In their four months living with you, and once they are weaned off milk, Labradors are likely to reach almost half their adult weight. They will reach their full adult weight by the time they are 6 to 7 months old. With this rapid growth can come some risks. Labradors can be susceptible to bone growth disorders, like hip dysplasia and joint abnormalities that can start in puppyhood. Once your Lab puppy hits 6 months, their growth begins to slow down. Once puppyhood is over, you can move to feeding your lab twice a day instead of 3 or 4 times. Labs are still very active in their adolescent years, and so should be fed with this in mind. The transition from puppy food to adult food should happen at around 15 months. This is because, being a breed who grows very quickly, you want to ensure that you are feeding them according to their large breed needs. You need to take special care when considering what you should feed your Labrador puppy, as they require different nutrients compared to their adult counterparts. It is also dangerous for a puppy to overeat. Labradors are large breeds, which means they need plenty of nutrients and calories as they grow to ensure they go from being active puppies to healthy adult dogs. Labrador puppies need to eat food that is high in proteins and fats. Carbohydrates are also essential for supporting your active pup. Aside from nutritionally complete dry puppy food, Labrador puppies can benefit from the extra protein that raw meat can provide them with, such as lean beef, turkey, chicken, or fish. The amount of food you give your Labrador is determined by their weight, energy levels, and age. For most adult Labradors, around 1, to 2, calories per day from high quality food sources is ideal. Female Labradors, who tend to be around 5 to 10 kilos lighter than males, may need less food, as will less active dogs. Dogs who need less food, whether they are less active or simply older, will usually still need around 1, to 1, calories per day. You may want to alter the amount of food you are feeding your Labrador based on how calorically dense their food is. Adult Labradors should be fed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. Their daily allotment of food should be split evenly between these two meals. For most dogs, it is recommended that you exercise your dog before meal times to assist with potty training. However, some dogs may benefit from exercise after eating: especially high energy Labs with a lot of energy to burn off. You should also try to give your Labrador a high quality food that is specially designed for large breeds, especially if they are very active. For example, less active senior dogs will need to eat less food as they will not be burning calories as quickly as a lively little puppy will. Senior dogs may benefit from a higher fibre and lower calorie diet. Your dog may also develop chronic or short term medical conditions that require specially formulated food. For example, Labradors can be particularly susceptible to obesity. As a breed, they tend to be one of the most commonly obese dogs in Australia. This is due to several factors, including a genetic predisposition to unhealthy weight gain and a famously large appetite. However, plenty of Labs suffering from obesity are simply overfed and not getting enough exercise. Choosing a low carb diet is crucial to preventing obesity in your Labrador. If you are unsure about what you should feed your Labrador, you should always consult your vet. They will be able to determine if your dog is suffering from any chronic health issues, and they will be able to create a nutritional plan to help keep your dog healthy and happy for many years to come. Wet food for Labradors is often high in protein and fat, and is better at keeping your dog hydrated than other food sources. Chewing on dry food can be especially good for teething Labrador puppies. A raw diet can be a good option for your Labrador as you have more control over the kinds of food and amount of nutrients your pup is consuming. For this reason, raw diets require a lot more work on your part as an owner. Whatever you decide to feed your Labrador, all dogs need a similar ratio of nutrients in their diets. Different dog breeds will need different kinds of nutrient support as they go through the various stages of their life. It can also be easy to overestimate the amount of food your Labrador needs to stay fit and healthy — especially if they are skilled at begging! You need to make sure that your dog is eating the right amount of food for their breed, their size, and activity level. You should also avoid foods that, while delicious for humans, can be harmful or toxic for dogs. Foods like onions, nuts, alcohol, cooked bones, and artificial sweeteners are commonly included in dinners meant for humans, but can cause serious health issues for your Labrador. No matter how old your Lab is, it is important to keep to a consistent feeding schedule. A feeding schedule can help you keep track of any changes in behaviour around food that might signal illness or physiological stress.

This coat is preferred by many. It should be wavy and forming light loose spirals. The Fleece coat has a distinctly soft, loopy spirals it feels like no other dog coat. This is a thicker tight curl coat. A Wool Fleece blend is a distinctly nice unusual coat as well. Has a cute fluffy longer coat look. Regular brushing is recommended. Minimal to non-shedding. The Multi-gene Australian Labradoodle always has the ultimate coat. Due to many years of breeding and the uniqueness of the Australian doodle produces a usually textured coat. It should be silky-soft waves and or light loopy spirals very nice Fleece coat and Fleece wool blend. As your Labradoodle puppy develops their adult coat and out of their puppy coat at about 6 to 12 months. Doodle coat will start to thicken and mat, this is the time to start grooming. When the pup coat is changing to their adult coat Puppy may lose a little hair and the coat may become lighten or darken. A change in curl or wavy will happen as the coat matures. Do NOT shave puppy coat off! In addition, we have our GorgeousDoodle preferences and tips as well : When your Doodle is about 14 months old they will have their adult coat and then body and legs can be shaved with clippers if needed. We usually only try to use the shavers on the tummy and sanitary areas but scissors cut everywhere else. It is important is to know your groomer or have a groomer that is recommended. Ask to see photos of other Doodles they have groomed, etc. The best shampoos and conditioners are super important…Doodles have sensitive skin. It is always important to leave their coat longer on the head, face, and tail. It looks good if the tail is full and top of the head is full and ears are trimmed up. I always talk with the groomer and give them firm instructions. No shaving the face or ears or paws or tail. We groom our dogs ourselves. We sometimes leave the legs a little longer with poodles it is called leaving the pants on and or leave their paws and ankles with a bit longer coat. It can be fun to give them a whole new look with a little different cut. Buy wide-tooth combs and open wirer brush and the scissors with a round tip. It is a fun coat, that you can leave long and just carefully trim around faces. Take to a groomer and you can have a full groom cut down to an inch or two or whatever you want. It is a good idea in Summer season hot weather to give them a full short body and legs cut. We would love to see photos of before and after the grooming of your Doodle. Another good soap is Dr. And some mild cream rinse. Bath 3 to 5 weeks or only when needed. Here are some pictures of our favorite high moisture great smelling shampoos and conditioners, very mild!! Most Labradoodles love water and are pretty easy to bathe or take swimming. Bath and cream rinse after swimming. The coat is one of the unique features of this Breed and sets it apart from any other breeds. Australian Labradoodles have no body odor, they do not require constant bathing and brushing, which is great for all types of owners. Is highly possible that the non- fur fleece and wool textures coat of the Australian Labradoodle is less likely to cause any pet allergic reactions. Labradoodles will have some very low hair breakage loss. Just like humans can have low hair loss. But that is not shedding. See lots of fun photos and videos of our GorgeousDoodles families on our Pics and Vids page , and on our YouTube and Facebook accounts! Final Thoughts Labradoodles and The Great Hypoallergenic Debate Chances are you already know that Doodles, as a type of so-called designer dog, came about as a solution to the issue of pet allergies. Basically, many of the very best service animals are high shedders, which is a problem for those sensitive to the proteins found in dog saliva and carried by loose hair. While experts agree that no dog is ever completely hypoallergenic — all dogs shed to some extent, after all. The Poodle with its trademark curly hair coat is just about as close as you can come. Breeders have been modifying dogs for certain purposes in this way for generations. By finding just the right combination of working dog genes and low-shed ones, it was possible to develop the perfect service animals for those with allergies. Well, that all depends on the kind of coat they inherit… The Three Types of Labradoodle Coats The thing about Labradoodles is not only do they have two very distinct parent pups, but these parent pups also have widely varying coats. In fact, they are about as different as you can get. Doodle with a curly wool coat. Hair Coat Right at the other end of the canine spectrum, you have the Labrador Retriever straight-haired double coat. Naturally, this one is the highest shedding of the three although it has to be said that it is nowhere near as bad as the regular old Labrador Retriever type. Doodle with straight hair Fleece Coat Finally, your pal could end up with a coat that sits somewhere in between the two extremes. Wavy and single-layered, the fleece coat is likely the one that most people think of if they picture the Doodle. Rather than resembling one parent over the other, the dogs are distinctively Doodle, looking like gorgeous little teddy bear dogs. Doodle with wavy coat. The reason? As per the title of this article… Labradoodle coat change. The shedding of the puppy coat is a natural process that occurs in all dogs somewhere between the ages of six months and one year. This might come as a shock to newbie pet owners that are expecting to have adopted a low-shedding dog. However, the shedding of the puppy coat is pretty standard and in no way indicates that you will be dealing with a high-shedding Labradoodle for the rest of their days. At the end of the day, though, you should be prepared for your wool, hair, or fleece-coated Doodle to look quite different at the end of this transition. That being said, there are a few signs to look for in your puppy that could tell you what you might expect from their adult coat. So, here are the big two switch-ups you might expect to see in a Labradoodle coat change and how to anticipate the outcome of them: Labradoodle Coat Change: Type One possible way you might know ahead of time what kind of coat a Labradoodle puppy might have is to pay close attention to their generation. So, for instance, with Labradoodles, the breeder might combine a pedigree Labrador Retriever with a pedigree Poodle, and the resultant litter will be categorized as first-generation F1 Labradoodles. Determining the kind of coat each puppy in this litter might end with will be just about impossible. However, the breeder may also choose to pair a first-generation Labradoodle with a pedigree Poodle in the hopes of introducing more Poodle genes and making it more likely that the offspring will have a low shed coat. This is referred to as backcrossing, and the puppies are labeled F1B. Backcrossing one of these dogs with another Poodle creates an F1BB litter, and so on. So your first step in finding out about coat type is to chat to the breeder about the heritage of the puppies. Once the puppies are born, you might also start to see some further clues in the ways their original coat starts to develop. Furnishings the expert term for hair around the face, ears, tail, and legs are great for this. However, dogs destined for a curly or even just wavy mane will usually have quite pronounced hair at these locations, especially around their beard area and around their eyes. Labradoodle Coat Change: Color Up until now, the focus of this article has been heavily on Labradoodle coat change as per type. This seems to be a key consideration for most looking to potentially pick up a Doodle pup. However, a further way Labradoodle coat change may be seen is with regards to color. Oh no. Yet, it is this first change that will likely have the most significant impact here too. In that way, you can be sure to collect up most of the loose coat before it drops or gets tangled around the rest of the curls left forming tight, tricky knots that you may well need to end up cutting out. A decent slicker brush, such as the Chris Christensen Brush , which is designed to penetrate the coat fully, lifting and trapping loose hairs as it goes, will make your life easier. Find the Best Deal:. There are three types of coats that Labradoodles can have. A hair-coated Labradoodle is the least popular among people with allergies owing to the fact that it sheds the most out of the three types. This makes them the least hypoallergenic. The straight coat can vary in length and thickness, so you may have to take your dog to the grooming salon more often than you had anticipated. The muzzle area is usually hair coated and will be a good indicator of their coat type. Fleece or Wavy Coated Labradoodles Fleece-coated Labradoodles are the easiest to maintain compared to the other two types, making them the most preferable. Labradoodles with this type of coat experience minimal shedding, thus helping keep allergies at bay. This coat also requires the least maintenance. The fleece coat comes in three varieties — straight, loose curls, and very curly. However, just because this type of coat sheds the least does not mean you can skip the groomers. Whatever type of coat your Labradoodle may have, a visit to the groomers at least once every six weeks along with regular grooming at home is necessary for maintaining its healthy coat. This rich black coat is a fairly common Labradoodle shade. Labradoodles are a hypoallergenic breed of dog. As they grow, they also begin losing the coats that they are born with. This transition usually starts as early as 6 months of age but can even take until they are 12 months of age. Ideally, you should brush your pup slowly and carefully, reaching down to its skin to ensure that the old puppy coat is coming off. This will help the puppy coat to shed faster, remove any tangles from its fur, prevent matting, and help the adult coat grow healthier. The Labradoodle ranks 1 for being a hypoallergenic dog and specifically bred for it. A hypoallergenic dog poses a significantly lower risk of causing an allergic reaction. This is because dogs that are labeled as hypoallergenic shed little to no fur at all. The first Labradoodle was created for a blind Hawaiian lady whose husband had an allergy to dogs. Since then, the popularity of this breed has grown rapidly. Labradoodles shed less fur, resulting in much less dander, as they have coats that are easy to maintain. As previously stated, the process of a puppy coat shedding varies from pup to pup but typically begins when they are 6 months of age. While Labradoodles are a hypoallergenic breed, it does not mean a Labradoodle pup will never lose its puppy coat. Most furry dog breeds shed in the sense that they lose their fur regularly. This is not the case with Labradoodles. This Apricot Mini Labradoodle is looking up at the camera, because he thinks he might get a treat he did. A Labradoodle puppy does not shed its puppy coat overnight or within a few days. Losing the puppy coat is a gradual process that can take up to a year and a half until the new coat grows. To allow the adult coat to grow properly, the puppy coat needs to be shed entirely. This is also why brushing your Labradoodle puppy is so important. When brushing your pup, you will notice strands of hair falling out at first. Eventually, tufts of puppy hair will come out. The more you brush your dog, the more you will be pulling out the old hair to make way for new growth. If you do notice any signs or symptoms, make sure to visit the vet and take appropriate measures for treatment. How To Manage A Shedding Labradoodle Puppy Coat Once your Labradoodle puppy starts shedding its puppy coat, it is advisable that you brush your dog regularly and at least groom it a couple of times every week or during daily periods of excessive shedding. Different dog breeds shed differently, so if you think something is amiss, you can always consult your vet to get your pup checked out. However, to avoid such dire situations, you need to make sure that you groom and brush your puppy regularly to avoid any matting. Depending on the type of Labradoodle coat your pup will develop, you should ideally be brushing your dog at least once a week to prevent any matting or tangled fur. Comb When you brush the coat, make sure you brush in the opposite direction of the hair growth. This will allow you to remove the old hair better. Then, you can move on to brushing in the direction of hair growth. You can do this with a fine-tooth comb. Ideally, a wooden or stainless steel comb would be a good choice. Make sure you pick a comb with wide teeth on one end and fine on the other. Detangler As your pet grows into a new coat, the old hair can knot up. This is when a detangler is needed. A detangler will help you effectively de-knot the coat without causing any distress to your pet. This tool is designed to help loosen the tangles and mats while being super gentle on your pup. If you keep putting off brushing your pooch, the old puppy coat will not shed but the new coat will start growing in, which will result in matting. A de-matting comb will be your knight in shining armor in such cases. Over-shedding is one example of why your pup may require a full body checkup as complete hair loss is unhealthy. Labradoodle playing in a water fountain. What a way to cool off on a warm day! While some people may be genuinely allergic to certain dog breeds, allergic reactions are typically caused by the dander or allergens present in dog fur. Without any exception, all dog breeds produce allergens that are responsible for allergies. These allergens are usually found in the dander, hair, urine, and saliva of a dog. If your dog is cooped up indoors for too long, it is prone to producing more allergens. This is why it is essential to take your dog out regularly. While there is no fool-proof way of deducing the type of coat your Labradoodle will have, there are still ways you can perhaps make an educated guess. For example, an F1B Labradoodle typically has fleece fur. Tracing genetics will give you a clearer picture of the outcome you can expect. Another way is to inspect the fur around the muzzle and the face of your Labradoodle pup. In the case of a fleece-haired coat, however, you will be able to determine the type of hair it will have by the time your pup is almost five weeks old by checking the fur around its eyes. Remember, Labradoodles are closest to the hypoallergenic dogs. Changing coat is when a puppy loses its baby fur to allow the adult coats to grow. The process of shedding is natural in many dog breeds. In the case of Labradoodles, the shedding happens when you brush them. On the other hand, shedding is losing fur that happens quite regularly with many furry dog breeds. Labradoodles shed fur but to a minimal extent, unlike other dog breeds. It is not the typical shedding where you will find clumps of hair everywhere. This was when it was observed that the cross-breed is useful, and the trend caught on. What are Hypoallergenic dogs? Hypoallergenic dogs are a breed with a relatively less thick coat that does not shed excessively and thereby limits the chances of causing allergies to humans. It is important to note that no dogs are percent hypoallergenic. When do Labradoodle puppies lose their puppy coat? Labradoodles do not keep the coats they are born with into adulthood. The average life span of a Labradoodle is 11 to 14 years. The coat they are born with are baby coats, and they will eventually shed them at some stage. This usually happens between 6 to 12 months. While it can be earlier for some, it may be later for others. When changing coats happen, both the color and texture of the coat of the Labradoodle will vary. The coat of a Labradoodle puppy appears thicker can come in varying shades depending on the cross-breeding. Some misunderstand this for normal shedding. It is, however, just a process of the Labradoodle growing into its new coat. When the process of changing the coat is completed, you would be surprised to find that your puppy has put on a coat of an entirely different color and texture. Take special care while brushing It is essential to take extra care when the process of shedding of coat happens. In the case of the Labradoodle pup, when you brush its coat, you are not only taking out the old fur but giving space for new ones to make it look clean, healthy and prevent further mess. It is important to use the right kind of brush and brush it down right to the skin. This will take off the old fur and prevent it from tangling with the new fur. Brushing right down to the skin also removes the old or dead skin. If they are allowed to remain on the puppy, the dead skin can accumulate to form a mat and create an ugly mess. What kind of allergies do dog furs cause? The sight of a dog with a thick coat makes you want to hug it and play with it. They are, however, known to cause allergies. More than the fur, the skin is attached to the end of the fur called dander that causes allergies. The urine and saliva of dogs are also known to cause allergies. The fur of dogs can cause the following kind of allergies: sneezing, running nose, cough, nasal congestion, itching, and red eyes, itching nose, and roof of mouth or throat, etc. Different generations of Labradoodles? The amount of hair your Labradoodle will lose can vary from puppy to puppy, and it depends on the generation of the puppy. The first generational Labradoodle F1 will shed a little more hair than the second generation F1b , third-generation F3b , and multigenerational Labradoodles. If you want to buy a Labradoodle but have allergies to hair, you should consider the second and third generational Labradoodles. Types of Labradoodle coats? There are three types of Labradoodle coats: Hair: This coat resembles the coat of a Labrador and sheds the most. The texture can range from feathery, wavy, or scruffy. You would need to brush it at least once a week and may occasionally need trimming. Fleece: There are two types of fleece: normal and microfine. Normal fleece is wavy and has a loose spiral. Microfine is supple and superfine and tends to get matted very easily. The fleece texture of fur should be brushed and combed at least once a week and trimmed at least thrice a year. They are also asthma and allergy-friendly. Wool: There are three types of wool: original, cotton, and new style. Cotton is the softest of the three types of wool. It is incredibly dense and can be straight or curly. It needs high maintenance as it needs to be brushed and combed at least once a week. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. As you might have guessed, this dog is a cross between poodle and Labrador parents — and the result is an adorable bundle of joy with a sweet, gentle personality. Labradoodle puppy coats come in a range of colors and textures, so labradoodle owners are spoiled for choice when choosing their fur baby. Read on to discover more about Labradoodles and labradoodle coat types. What Are Hypoallergenic Dog Coats? Hypoallergenic dogs have less of a thick coat than many other breeds. A highly shedding coat presents a higher risk to allergy sufferers than non-shedding dogs like a labradoodle puppy. As a dog with one of the most allergy-friendly coats , there are a few practicalities to keep in mind when it comes to your labradoodle pooch and its coat. Pretty much every labradoodle puppy goes through a coat change, which is separate from a shedding coat. The puppy coat is eventually replaced by an adult coat, which comes with more grooming requirements. Types of Labradoodle Puppy Coats One of the best things about labradoodle dogs is the wide range of choices with regard to appearance. Wool Coat You can determine if your Labradoodle puppy has a fleece coat. You can identify fleece coats by the way the fur sits between the eyes, as this area starts to get curly first. This is the curliest coat type, but it still comes in a variety of types. Some dogs with a curly coat have a cotton-type coat, which is the softest but also incredibly high maintenance. Labradoodle puppies with wool Labradoodle puppy coats are mainly non-shedding and can make great companions for pet owners with allergies. Fleece Coat Doodles with a fleece coat require a little less maintenance than the other types of doodles, but they still need weekly brushing and plenty of TLC. A fleece-coated labradoodle is the result of combining a curly wool coat gene with the gene for a straight coat. Areas such as the ears and collar are particularly prone to getting matted, so be sure to pay close attention to these areas when you brush your fleece-coated labradoodle once or twice per week. Hair Coat A labradoodle with a straight coat has inherited most of its fur genes from its Labrador retriever parent. Something interesting about Labradoodles is that their Labradoodle puppy coats change as they get older, so your hair-coated labradoodle might get a wave to its fur as it gets older. While you can also take it to a professional groomer on a weekly basis, this can incur hefty grooming costs. Most labradoodle owners opt to take their dog to a groomer once a month or two and do regular adult coat maintenance themselves. Use the correct type of dog brush and be sure to get all the way down to the skin. Give your dog a brush before and after bath time. All puppies eventually lose their puppy coat to make way for their adult coat, this goes the same with Labradoodle puppy coats. You might find the new type of coat is totally different from the old coat. Coats and Generational Differences The amount of hair your dog sheds varies between puppies, but generational differences can also play a role. First-generation doodles shed slightly more than second-generation doodles, with multigenerational Labradoodles shedding even less. We genetically test each breeding parent to make sure the shedding genes are not passed on to the puppies in our training program. We adore the breed and have a wide range of Labradoodle puppies for sale to choose from, with different color and type of Labradoodle puppy coats. We can even deliver a fully trained doodle puppy direct to your door if you like! Labradoodle Puppy -Will a Labradoodle be easy to look after? Karen has been grooming Labradoodles since she introduced the first litter of doodle puppies in BC Australian Labradoodle with a fine wool coat, Lexi The Labradoodle Wool Coat The coats are identified by their feel rather than their look. The wool coat is one that I love because I live with severe allergies and asthma. This coat is most like a poodle coat and although the wool coats of our dogs are very soft they feel like poodle coats and are very curly. These coats absolutely do not shed. Even during the change from puppy coat to adult coat they shed very little. Our Aussi has a curly wool coat. He is clipped so that he can lead his very active life style. Lilyanna has an unusually soft curly wool coat that waves when it is long. The Labradoodle Wool Coat The coats are identified by their feel rather than their look. The Labradoodle Fleece Coat The fleece coat is wavy rather than tightly curled. It is a very desirable coat because it is slightly easier to look after than the wool coat and it has a lovely silken feel. Although we have not had a shedding fleece dog there is the possibility of some light shedding when they change from a puppy to adult coat. The fleece coat does need to be brushed but it is much more easily kept long than a wool coat. The puppy and adult dog will need regular grooming because the face will need trimming as will the bum and beneath the ears to prevent matting. Somewhere between nine and fourteen months of age the adult coat will grow in. At this transition time the coat will need lots of attention in order to keep the length. Brush right to the skin with a stiff brush or rake. If the dog mats at this point she will have to clipped short by your groomer. Hair Coat The hair coat feels very similar to the hair on your head. It is unlike the feel of wool or fleece. The hair coat will shed. It requires little attention. Puppies will often look like they are going to have a fleece coat until the hair comes through the puppy coat at about eight or nine weeks of age. The doodle with a hair coat has the same wonderful temperament and personality as the doodle with the non shedding coat but is not good for a person with allergies or for a family that has chosen the doodle because of his non-shedding qualities. It is hard to get a brush through the curls if you leave it too long. Without this regular brushing right down to the skin mats will form next to the skin. Mats make it very uncomfortable for the dog to walk and run and play. We keep our wool coated dogs clipped short because we live with fields of weeds and burrs. It is quite possible to keep a wool coated dog with a long coat, it simply is a matter of keeping up with the brushing and keeping feet, faces and bums clipped. This would be a trip to the groomer at least every second month. Every six weeks keeps dogs in both long and short coats looking and feeling like movie stars. Grooming For Every Doodle No matter what the doodle coat there is grooming required. This can either be done by an interested family member or your groomer. Ears Fur grows out of the ears of a labradoodle. It begins its journey deep in the ear canal. If ears are not keep clean and dry dirt and wax can lead to severe ear infections. You can tell when the doggie has hot ears that there is a problem and a trip to the vet will be in order. Some doodles love to dig and have very thick fur in their ears. This means it could be a good idea to pluck the fur from deep in the ear. It is not difficult to take tweezers or better still a hemostat and pluck out the fur on a regular basis. I must say I almost swooned the first time I did it myself but it does get easier. Unless you are an expert it is a two person job, one to hold the dog and promise treats, the other to pluck. Your vet can recommend an ear drying powder which will keep the ears in good health. Of course, your groomer will do the ear plucking for you. If you take your dog every six weeks she should be fine. Nails Unless dogs travel on a stone river bed a couple of kilometers every single day they need their nails trimmed. Our Labradoodles have dew claws and they will always need attention. Nail trimming should be done every few weeks. It is however another wonderful thing your professional groomer will do. Our doodle girls have fuzzy feet and so have to be content with a simple nail trim. Little Bottoms All long coated dogs need a trim around their little bottoms for ease of toilette. He is enjoying his new summer doo as he loves water sports. This boy always stops to smell the roses or dandelions. Contact Us. A Labradoodle puppy! Partly thanks to that gorgeous fluffy coat. When do Labradoodles Lose their Puppy Coat? It is quite a gradual process. The process typically starts around 6 months of age. But, it can take up to a year and a half to complete. This may not be great news if you or someone else in your family suffers from dog allergies. But, as long as your Labradoodle grows up to have a fleece or wool coat, you will have less shed fur to clean once the puppy coat has fully shed and the adult coat grows in. What is a Labradoodle Puppy Coat Like? The Labradoodle puppy coat is a lot different to all adult varieties. Puppy coats are always single layer. Are Labradoodle Puppy Coats Hypoallergenic? After their creation, the resulting demand for an allergy-friendly dog catapulted Labradoodles to worldwide fame. It also led to the development of many other hybrid dog breeds. The truth is, there is no such thing as a hypoallergenic dog. So, Labradoodle puppy coats cannot be hypoallergenic. So, your Labradoodle puppy coat will not catch any falling dander. Allergens could still find their way onto other objects in your home. And, their shedding puppy coats could aggravate your allergies. Adult Labradoodles can have one of three coat types: Hair coat — will shed moderately all year, and heavily during shedding seasons Fleece coat — will shed lightly to moderately, varies from one Doodle to the next Wool coat — does not shed visibly, but hair sheds into the surrounding coat, which can cause painful knots if not groomed properly Influence from Parent Breeds Labradoodles come from a long line of working dogs; primarily the Labrador Retriever and the Standard Poodle. Labrador Retrievers typically have a double coat. Their fur has an insulating under-layer and a protective outer-layer which helps them in their working roles. The Poodle, on the other hand, is one of the rare working breeds with a single layer coat. Are Adult Labradoodle Coats Hypoallergenic? The fleece type of adult Labradoodle coat will often be best for individuals that suffer from allergies. But, this will still need regular grooming to control shedding dander. And, regardless of which adult coat your Doodle has, your dog will still need to shed out their puppy coat first. Suddenly, you will find tufts and clumps of shed dog hair everywhere, where before there was none. This can start as early as six months. So, watch out for shed fur from this age. It could start anywhere from six to nine months, or even slightly outside of this range. The puppy coat has to be completely shed out to allow the adult coat to grow in. That would leave your Labradoodle defenseless against pests, the elements, and injury. Instead, their coat will shed in stages, over time. This is why it can take up to a year and a half for the puppy coat to fully shed out and the adult coat to fully grow in. Depending on the adult coat your Labradoodle inherits, these hairs may be long and straight hair coat , long and loosely curly fleece coat , or short and tightly curled wool coat. In most cases, a Labradoodle will have fully lost their puppy coat and grown into their adult one between the ages of 12 and 15 months. But, there is no exact timer that buzzes the moment this process is finished. But, some veterinarians may be happy for you to cut it short with scissors, to keep your cleaning schedule for shed fur a little more manageable. Not only will this help you to gather and remove shed fur before it goes all over your floor, but it will also familiarise your Labradoodle with the grooming process. All three types of adult Labradoodle coat require regular grooming. Are you dealing with a shedding puppy coat right now? We would love to hear about your experiences with the Labradoodle puppy coat in the comments. Related Articles. What to expect in the early days. Crate training, housebreaking, and reward-based training. Exercise guidelines and mental stimulation. The importance of correct socialization. General health and nutrition. Shedding and grooming. And so much more. You will save you time, money, and loads of frustration…take my word for it! Get Your Copy Today! We use this stainless steel Poodle comb. One side is narrow and the other wide. It works great! We use this Safari De-Matting Comb. Detangler — This can be used along with the comb or de-matting comb to help loosen problem tangles and mats. You can find some of our favorite grooming tools and supplies here. Do Labradoodle Puppies Shed? For instance, a German shepherd will shed its coat twice a year. Shepherds are amazing dogs, very different from Labradoodles in many ways, not just shedding. Learn more about them in these articles. Matting is a clump of tangled hair that is difficult to comb through. If they get too serious, a groomer will have to cut out patches of hair. Genetics plays a part in determining how much hair a Labradoodle will shed or lose. Second F1b generation, third-generation F3b and multigenerational Labradoodles are going to shed less than a first-generation Labradoodle F1. Some owners will actually look for a second, third, or multigenerational Labradoodle dog just for the non-shedding or low-shedding attributes. Read this for a more detailed look at multi-generational Labradoodles. Australian Labradoodles are usually a good choice for people looking for asthma and allergy-friendly dogs. Of the various types of Labradoodles, the wool-coated Labradoodle has had the highest success rate for people suffering from asthma or dog-related allergies. They go through a coat change where their puppy coat changes to an adult coat. When this shedding process begins, the coat will begin to fill out and will get thicker. If the puppy is not brushed daily, the coat will become very matted and tangled. The more hair you see coming out in the brush, the better the puppy will look. Other owners use this opportunity as a way to bond with the dog and become familiar with the brushing process, which should become a regular part of their lives. The age at which Labradoodles stop shedding their puppy coat depends on the age it began the shedding process. It can take from a week to several weeks, and every dog does it at a different age. One puppy may be shedding its puppy coat between the ages of months while another may be from months of age. If you suddenly realize your Labradoodle puppy is in need of a good haircut, the pup has probably begun the shedding process. Changing from a puppy coat to an adult coat can bring an entirely different color texture and overall appearance. All dogs create allergens or proteins, which are what usually cause allergies. What are the Different Types of Labradoodle Coats? Labradoodles have three types of coat: hair, fleece, and wool. There are two reasons for this. One reason is that Labradoodles come in many, many different colors. Secondly, while there are only three types of coats, there is some variation within the different coat types. Depending on the length and density of the hair, Labradoodles with a hair coat should be brushed at least once a month. Due to its resemblance to the Labrador Retriever, the hair coat is the one that sheds the most and will be the least hypoallergenic. Fleece The fleece coat may be normal fleece or microfine fleece. Normal fleece has the texture of soft angora and may be wavy or have loose spirals. In addition to being brushed every couple of weeks, this coat requires trimming once or twice a year. Also wavy or spirally, the microfine fleece is very fine and super soft. Because of the texture, it tends to get matted easily. It will need a good brushing or combing at least once a week. The coat should also be trimmed a couple of times a year to prevent it from growing past three inches. Both types of fleece coats are said to be asthma- and allergy-friendly coats. Wool The wool coat comes in three types: original wool, cotton wool, and loose or new style wool. Cotton wool is super dense, may be straight or curly and is the softest of the three wool coats. When groomed, it stands up and often has the appearance of a big cotton ball. Each of these wool types are asthma- and allergy-friendly coats with the original wool having the most success in this area. All three require regular trimming. You can find even more information on Labradoodle coat types in this article. Still have questions about your puppy? Be sure to grab your copy of our Labradoodle Guidebook to find the answers and get your puppy on his way to becoming a well-adjusted, affectionate, happy adult. Related Questions: What is an Australian Labradoodle? How many years do Labradoodles live? Labradoodles are a relatively healthy breed of dog. While they are susceptible to some canine diseases , a healthy Labradoodle will generally live to be 11 to 14 years old. Related Posts:. Also, your fleece coats, while, overall, are softer than your wool coats in texture, still have some texture variation within the fleece coat type. The Australian Labradoodle requires varying degrees of grooming depending on their coat type. A light trimming might be required with scissors but usually not. However, we do not have any hair coat in Sunset Hills, because our puppies are all multi-gen. This coat usually requires trimming once or twice a year. This coat also requires trimming about three-four times a year. All allergy and asthma friendly labradoodles have a coat change from puppy to adult usually between months of age. During their coat change, it is recommended that you groom them daily. The coat change can last anywhere from a week to several weeks. This is usually the time when owners decide that their beautiful furry doodle needs a shorter look. Note: Not all Labradoodles are Allergy and Asthma friendly. We do recommend that if you have the opportunity to meet one of these wonderful dogs in person that you should check to see if you have any reactions before you make your decision in purchasing your new puppy. We recommend that any family or person who suffers from dog related severe allergies or asthma should look into a Wool coated labradoodle as they have the highest success rate. For labradoodle sizes, please go to our Size link. For pictures and definitions of the colours of the Australian Labradoodle, please go to our Colours link. For the information on grooming, please go to our Resource link.

Nutrition information With only six ingredients, puppy chow muddy buddies is extremely quick and easy to whip up, making it the perfect recipe for the busy holiday season. Puppy chow ingredients This sweet snack mix is made of six super simple ingredients! The best part? You probably have all of the ingredients on hand already. All of the ingredients are staple pantry and fridge items that all have a long shelf life. Rice chex cereal makes the base of this recipe and makes this snack mix super crunchy and addicting. Semi-sweet chocolate chips. Peanut butter gets melted together with the chocolate chips and creates an amazingly creamy mixture that coats the cereal. Use smooth peanut butter — instead of chunky — to ensure even melting. Unsalted butter. Vanilla extract. Powdered sugar. Set aside. Place chocolate chips, peanut butter, and butter into a large microwave safe bowl or measuring cup. Melt until smooth, then stir in vanilla extract. Pour chocolate mixture over the cereal and gently stir together. Stir in the powdered sugar. Tips for making puppy chow muddy buddies There are SO many recipes for puppy chow, but I promise you, my recipe is the best, because of these tips and tricks. Use the whole box of cereal. Most recipes call for 9 cups of cereal, leaving 2 cups left in the box. What the heck are you supposed to do with 2 cups of chex?! Use the whole bag of chocolate chips. More is more in this recipe. Just throw the whole bag in. Use more powdered sugar than you think necessary. Chunks are the best part. Just trust me on this one. How to store puppy chow Puppy chow can be stored at room temperature in an airtight container for up to a week. It does not need to be refrigerated, but some people prefer it chilled. Puppy chow recipe substitutions If you can, I highly recommend making the recipe as is. It truly is the perfect combination of crunchy, sweet, chocolate-y, peanut buttery goodness. Do I have to use semi-sweet chocolate? You can use dark chocolate or even milk chocolate, but semi-sweet is really gives you that perfect sweet, but not too sweet balance. Processed peanut butter — think Jiff or Skippy — works best, but sunflower seed butter should work as well. Butter is essential, but try using a vegan buttery spread instead. Do I need to use vanilla extract? No, you can omit it, but you will loose some of that cozy depth of flavor. I grew up calling it puppy chow but plenty of people call it muddy buddies. It depends on where you live. Other names:. Let me present to you how I think puppy chow should always look: Beautiful, chunky clusters. The puppy chow I grew up with was more like individual pieces of cereal that were completely coated with powdered sugar. It was served room temperature and you ate it one piece at a time. This stays true to the basics but just dials up everything good: the chocolate, the peanut butter, the butter. It gives just a little more excitement with the texture, the shape, the temperature. It makes for supremely satisfying grazing. It is one of the great Midwestern food contributions of the 80s and 90s my roots! Microwave works fine. This is the Midwest. We are not fancy. Melted chocolate goes in with the cereal. Toss with Powdered Sugar Once the cereal is coated, toss it with powdered sugar so each piece is coated and dry enough to touch. Midwestern kids of the 90s hello will agree with me that mixing the chocolate coated cereal in a paper grocery bag is the authentic and proper technique. I mean, is it really puppy chow without the paper bag? But in reality, any big bag ziplock, paper bag, even a big mixing bowl that you can toss very gently so as not to break the cereal will get the job done. I keep it in airtight containers like a lidded plastic food storage container, for example or just in a Ziplock bag. Yes, the fridge works, the counter will even work. Plus, it travels well and makes it last longer. I hope this helps you live a little more lightly in August. How long does this last? In the freezer, this can last for a few months. With this work with other nut butters? This also works well with Sun Butter. Is the paper bag necessary? Whereas many recipes only use part of the box of cereal, this one uses a whole ounce box, meaning no weird leftovers and no measuring needed! In addition to using a whole box of cereal, I played around with the ratios of ingredients to ensure these are nutty and chocolate-y without being cloying, as puppy chow can easily become. Rather than the more common ratio of semi-sweet chocolate to peanut butter, my version uses more peanut butter. I found that it was easiest to divide the cereal into two batches when coating so that it has adequate space to shake around. Additionally, I found that adding a bit of sugar to the bottom of the bag, then the cereal, then more sugar on top yields a better distribution of sugar. Technique Tip: When choosing a bowl for mixing the cereal, the bigger the better. This will make it much easier to mix. Use a gallon-sized bag for shaking. I love using rice and corn cereal for this you can use one or a combination , but feel free to swap it for something even more fun, such as chocolate or peanut butter cereal. When we make something delicious we go big. Nope, we really go for it. Puppy chow is one of those recipes that you can find in a million places, with a million variations, but one thing always annoyed me. You are always left with a weird amount of cereal in the box when you were done. So I wanted to change that for me and for all of you. I wanted to give you a recipe that not only used up the whole box, but that would also be great if you were serving a crowd, sharing at a party, or making gifts for friends, teachers or family. So here we go.Get your big bowl and appetite ready! Sure you can, but do you really want to??? Can this recipe be made nut-free, dairy-free or gluten-free? Feel free to adapt in other ways as you feel necessary: Nut-free: swap the peanut butter for creamy sunbutter and you should be good to go. Dairy-free: you can easily substitute the butter for a dairy free plant based butter. Gluten-free: this one is super easy, just make sure you are using a gluten free version of the cereal. There are a few and any of them will work How do you make big batch puppy chow? The hardest part of making this big batch of deliciousness is finding large enough zip top bags to shake the whole thing up. I find using two and a half gallon size bags works well. Simply mix the cereal into the melty mixture with a big spoon until all the cereal is well covered. I like to put the powdered sugar into the bag before dumping the chocolaty cereal in, just cuts down on the mess hahaha , and I find that it is easier to cover the cereal more evenly. Then, spread out on a wax paper or parchment lined baking tray or two or four depending on how big they are until everything is set. If your house is warm, you may want to put in the fridge for a bit. Tips and Tricks: This recipe is great for a party. Save a few dollars since you are going to coat it in all the delicious things anyway! Looking for other easy kid friendly recipes? Check these out! Jump to Video Jump to Recipe This post may contain affiliate links. Please read our disclosure policy. Snack mixes are one of the best party foods. How to Make Puppy Chow You can break the process down into three easy steps. Measure your cereal into a large bowl and set aside. In 1 quart sauce pan, heat semisweet chocolate chips, peanut butter and butter over low heat stirring frequently with a spatula until melted. Remove from heat and stir in a teaspoon vanilla. Pour chocolate mixture over cereal, stirring until evenly coated. Pour into two gallon resealable plastic bags. Add powdered sugar. Seal bag and shake until well coated. Spread over waxed or parchment paper to cool. You want each piece of chex to have an ample amount of chocolaty peanut butter sauce for the sugar to stick to. If you like your mix extra saucy try reducing the Chex amount to only cups. You can also customize it to whatever holiday candy is being sold at the time. This can also be made dairy free by using the right chocolate and a butter substitute like margarine. Sunbutter, soybutter, almond butter, and cashew Butter are great substitutes for peanut butter in this recipe. You can even use Nutella instead for extra chocolatey Puppy Chow. It can stay at room temperature for up to 10 days, or kept in the fridge for up to 2 weeks. However, at my house it never lasts that long! Allow it to thaw before eating. This will allow it to set and dry.

Top 5 Labradoodle Haircuts Be sure to check out our 2-part series on types of Doodle haircuts, with tons more pictures that cover overall body styles and variations of styles. Different groomers may have different ideas of what the following types of cuts are. If any of these pictures represent what you want your Labradoodle to look like, be sure to bookmark this page for easy access when dropping them off at the groomer! With the hair slightly rounder and longer around the face and legs, the Labradoodle teddy bear cut gives your pup the most adorable puppy-like look. As the name hints, the goal is to give your Labradoodle a puppy-like look with shorter hair on the body, and longer on the head. This look is not for the faint-hearted, but a dog as cute as a Labradoodle will surely pull this off. Labradoodle Long Clip Almost the same as the Labradoodle short clip, but not quite. The Labradoodle long clip is great for emphasizing those beautiful waves and an effortless, shaggy look. However, longer hair can also trap in more dirt, so make sure to set aside enough time for daily brushing. Here you can check out the best brushes for Labradoodles. A comb is also great for brushing hard-to-reach areas like the paws, face, and ears. Dog Clippers — When it comes to grooming, you are going to need a set of clippers to get the job done. Which ones should you choose? These are our favorite grooming scissors for Doodles. Dog Shears — Are you ready to take your grooming to the next level? Detangler Sprays — One of the best hacks for hassle-free brushing is having a detangler spray at hand. Use it before each brushing or just before bathtime, a good detangler spray cuts the time spent on tangles in half. Shampoo — A proper grooming routine includes an occasional bathtime. Whether your Labradoodle struggles with skin sensitivities or tends to shed a lot, there are tons of different options available on the market. Here are the top 6 dog shampoos that Labradoodle owners swear by. Ear Cleaning Products — With those cute floppy ears, Labradoodles are prone to ear infections due to the restricted airflow. Take a look at some of the highest rated dog ear cleaner products that help prevent and treat minor ear infections. Grooming Tables — Every Labradoodle owner knows how difficult it can be to groom a Doodle with one hand, while trying to keep them still with the other. A grooming table will take care of all that you still need to do the grooming though… and save you from back pain. Check out the best dog grooming tables or create a DIY grooming table. Be sure to check out our guide on dealing with matted hair , and another about the line brushing method. Bathing: Before a haircut or after a muddy playtime, your Labradoodle will need a thorough wash. Typically, once a week should be perfectly enough. However, some pups might need a couple of times a week. Once in a while, you might want to use a special dog ear cleaner to prevent any infections. Here you can check our guide on Doodle ear infection symptoms, treatments, and prevention. Eye gunk: Gently remove any eye gunk you notice, as this will prevent discoloration around the eyes and bad smell. If you can do it daily, great! Here is our step-by-step video tutorial guide that includes the entire Doodle grooming process from head to paw. For example, the best Labradoodle haircuts for summer would be short so your pup has an easier time cooling down. The Labradoodle puppy cut is the most popular Labradoodle haircut. However, we recommend you choose high-quality tools, as they will last you a longer time. As a Labradoodle puppy starts to develop an adult coat, you should start with regular grooming. The sooner you introduce your puppy to the whole process of grooming, the easier it will be for them to get used to it. See Also: Click the image To conclude, we hope that you learned some useful Labradoodle grooming tips, and that we managed to inspire you with the Labradoodle haircuts that you can try on your Doodle for your next grooming session. Let us know in the comments! The information on this page is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional groomer advice. Always seek the advice of your groomer, veterinarian, or other qualified animal health provider with any questions you may have. You Might Also Like. The first grooming appointment can be frightening for your puppy. The following tips can help your puppy have a positive experience at the groomer. Handling and socializing your Labradoodle puppy Before scheduling your first appointment, make sure your puppy is comfortable with being touched and handled. Be sure to praise and reward your puppy for calm behavior. Continue socializing your puppy by introducing him or her to new people and animals. Introducing the grooming tools Once your puppy is comfortable with being touched, you can introduce common grooming tools. Let your puppy inspect and sniff the brush, comb, scissors, hair dryer, and clippers. Turn on the hair dryer and clippers while feeding your puppy treats to create a positive association. Grooming your puppy at home Keep your initial grooming sessions short and reward your puppy for good behavior. You can build up the duration over time, as your puppy gets more comfortable. The first session should be short and positive. In fact, just visiting for a quick introduction and nail clipping is a good start. The most important thing is to give your Labradoodle puppy a positive experience with professional grooming. After drop-off, always wait to be notified that your puppy is ready for pickup. Never come back to the grooming salon early. If your puppy sees you or hears your voice, it will be very difficult for the groomer to finish the job. Maintaining health with regular grooming For best results, your Labradoodle puppy should be professionally groomed every 4 to 6 weeks. You will also need to brush your puppy at home. While many Labradoodles do not shed, their undercoats can mat and become difficult to manage. If you have questions about how we groom our Labradoodles, feel free to contact us any time. Besides to brush out fur balls or tangles, there are reasons that you should groom your dog out regularly. There are numerous reasons why you should groom your Labradoodle regularly, but the question is often when and why? Keeping Your Doodles Coat Healthy Another reason that you should groom your Labradoodle has to do with the many benefits it gives your dog. Regularly bathing and brushing your dog, ensures that you spread the naturally produced oils throughout his coat. These oils allow your Doodle to repel the water when you both go swimming and they also shield your dog from sunburns on sunny days. You can actually groom your Doodle too often, resulting in stripping these oils out of the coat and undo all the good work you were previously doing. The more time you and your dog spend together, the stronger your bond will be with him. Grooming your dog regularly helps him get accustomed to people touching him. Grooming your Labradoodle is an extremely important part of the socialization process. How often should a Labradoodle be groomed? Every element of grooming brushing, bathing, trimming nails, etc. There are additional factors that you will need to consider. Some of those include: Time of year: Twice a year your Doodle is going to require more attention. Diet: What you give your Doodle to eat will absolutely affect the health of his coat and nails. A rich and balanced diet will promote a normal growth rate and subsequent shedding schedule. Health: If your dog suffers from a chronic illness, have a chat with your vet regarding how frequently you should groom him. Smell factor: Labradoodles like most dogs love to roll around in a variety of objects that will leave your dog with a foul odor. Things like dead animals, animal excrements, and many other revolting things. Filthy factor: Doodles also loves mud. Labradoodles require quite a lot of grooming compared to other breeds like the Labrador Retriever. The most important part of Doodle-grooming is brushing. When you brush your Doodle , the first thing you should do is start by checking things out with your bare hands. Do you notice any spots that seem tender or sensitive? Make sure that you avoid these areas when you are going to use the brush. Should I groom Labradoodle Puppies? Grooming a puppy is not as necessary as it is with a more grown dog. The risk of your puppy being the cause of stinking up your room is a lot less likely than a year-old Doodle doing the same. You will typically also keep your puppy on a shorter leash when going for walks, which is going to prevent him from getting into too many foul things. Shedding will not be as big of a problem with a younger dog. So, should you still groom your puppy and is so, how often? As with any dog, the socialization process is extremely critical to make sure that your puppy is ready for his everyday life — and this also includes grooming. The earlier you get your puppy used to the grooming process the more likely your dog will take to grooming without any problems as an adult. When talking about a puppy, it is probably best to limit your grooming sessions to two or three times a week and only for a few minutes each time. Every different time you practice grooming your puppy, try another area of his body. Labradoodle puppies are at a perfect stage to get them used to the grooming process. Go lots of little short sessions to help him get used to the experience. Short and as fun sessions as possible it the key to success in socialization. And then as your puppy starts growing, try to extend the sessions a little bit every time. Ultimately, you will have a grown Labradoodle that loves sitting still while you go through an entire session with grooming. When do you need to groom Doodles the most? Fall and spring are always the worst shedding times for a Doodle. But if you want to limit the shedding just a bit, you should probably brush him out at least once a day. You can also get different types of de-shedding shampoos and conditioners that will help you in your fight against the loose hairs. During my more than 20 years of dog ownership, I have tried dozens of different brushes and my favorite for the past many years is Chris Christensen Mark III. I absolutely love this brush because it not only does an incredible job of removing the dead hair, but it does it without being overly aggressive. With other brushes I previously even caused my dog to bleed, and the guilt I felt afterward made me thrown that brush far away immediately. How often should I bath a Labradoodle? The reason for that is that bathing your Doodle too frequently will lead to dry skin. This will bother your dog and most likely lead to extreme itching and scratching. Typically, the best way to bathe your dog is just a quick hose down or possibly even a quick swim in a nearby lake or river. Shampoo and conditioners for Doodles Looking for the best shampoo and conditioner to fight shedding can be quite confusing, but one product I would recommend you to consider comes from the Furminator brand. The shampoos and conditioners from Furminator are extremely popular in every pet store in the country, and they are so for a reason. Click here to check what the best price currently is. Their cute wobbly ears have a certain way of acting like a cover on their ear canal. So, if for some reason water or debris gets in there, these things can risk staying in there and start to fester. Then you should massage the ear canal with the solution inside to loosen up the smut in the ear. If you want to know more about ear infections, check out this article. While doing this, you might even experience that your Doodle enjoys having his ears massaged. When you stop massaging, you will probably end up with a bit of a mess in your room because your dog is going to shake his head in an attempt to get the liquid out of his ears. This should remove whatever is left in there. Trimming a Labradoodles nails If you experience that your Labradoodle constantly has too long nails, the good news is that the perfect cure is both cheap and healthy. If you by accident cut a bit too far and get into the quick, apply some chapstick to end the bleeding. When deciding on a tool to get for nail trimming, there are two different solutions. A guillotine cutter , or an electric trimming tool , each with their own pros and cons. Labradoodles are prone to some different eye issues like cataracts which can cause them to have a cloudy look to them. If the eyes look like they need to be cleaned, just grab a cotton ball or pad and dip it in some water or saline. Tooth brushing is a part of grooming When not taken enough care of, teeth can cause some serious pain in people. The same is true when it comes to dogs. Bad breath and yellow teeth are some the least of the concerning problems when it comes to dental hygiene in dogs. And this is also the situation with your puppy. There are various different ways you can stop tooth decay. Some people choose to just get a normal dog toothbrush. Some years ago, I decided to get my dog in for a checkup. Although everything on the surface looked fine, I was told that I should consider a dental procedure to remove tartar and plaque. So, I decided to look into more cost-efficient methods to control the teeth issues. The first and luckily also the cheapest alternative was the Pedigree Dentastix. I was a bit skeptical at first, but my Labradoodles teeth were noticeably cleaner after just one box of these chews. The next choice I have tried was a toothbrush that they use entirely on their own. It is the Wisedom Dog Toothbrush. The bristles on this toothbrush are flavored to promote some serious chewing. And in time, those grooming sessions will become easier and easier, and much more enjoyable for you and your dog. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. Keeping a well-groomed dog is essential to maintaining their health, happiness, quality of life. This guide will instruct you on grooming as young as 8 weeks into adulthood. In order for this to be the best experience for you and your Doodle, the most important thing to remember is: Be patient! If it is frustrating for you at any time throughout the grooming process, take a break and come back later. We always want our Doodles to relate grooming with positivity! Well, short answer, I groom my dogs every 8 — 10 weeks. There are so many variables to the grooming question that I hate to boil it down to one sentence. First, we should ask ourselves a few questions: 1. How much time does he spend outdoors with the potential to get dirty? What sort of coat does your dog have? Different Coat Types Require Different Labradoodle Grooming Schedules I have dogs with different coat types, and they have different grooming schedules. My two older dogs both have a wool type coat. It is very curly, a little wiry, and not the easiest to brush. It is most like a poodle coat. These two get the most regular grooming appointments, and I keep them pretty short. With this type of cut and frequency I do not need to brush them out at all between grooms. I usually wait more time between grooms on this coat. I love the fluffy look when it grows out. Often the ears and collar area need regular brushing to prevent matting. If your doodle does not go out and get dirty, then cleaning is not an issue, and you could keep a longer coat with or without regular visits to the groomer. If a mat develops next to their skin it is painful for the dog, and you will need to have your Labradoodle shaved down to eliminate. Artistic Grooming Techniques And of course, there are all sorts of artistic grooming techniques. I often see the ears and tail left longer than the rest of the body. And the Teddy Bear- is always cute! Clearing the ear hair will help prevent ear infections as well as ear odor. If your groomer does not pluck ear hair, consider this task on your own or stop by your vet a few times a year to have them take care of the problem. Occasionally, a nice bath helps in between grooms too! While the adult coat is establishing, you will need to brush multiple times a week, and I find this the best time to give your pet his first trim. It will be difficult to keep up with the matting in the longer coat, but with a trim, it is very manageable, and the beauty of the adult coat is better realized. Once your dog gets to 12 to 14 months, the adult coat will be fully established, and this is the coat you can expect to work with for your dog's adult life. I find that the picture to the right will help to clarify the instructions you will need to convey for your dog's face. It is best to print this picture and take it with you to the groomer. A three-fourths inch blade don't go shorter than one-half inch will keep your dog's coat nice and full but give a smooth consistent length all over. If you like your dogs coat longer, your groomer should have a guard they can use to achieve this. The legs are typically just a little longer than the rest of the coat if you trim the coat to three-fourths inch. FEET: The feet will need a "slipper" cut to achieve the floppy, full leg look. The leg will look like a column. TAIL: The tail needs to be de-matted and trimmed. It is also important to have the hair removed, either trimmed or pulled, inside the dog's ears. Click the grooming picture for an enlarged, printable version and take it with you to your groomer! This does mean however, that your dog requires regular clipping to keep the coat trimmed and free of knots and matting. This is important for the dog also, as their coats can get very heavy and hot and matted coats make them very uncomfortable. It will really depend on the length you want to keep your Labradoodles coat as to how much grooming you will have to do. What do I need? Hold the skin taught to protect from any discomfort, especially where you come across a knot, or matts. Like in human hair, work knots out gently, or cut through them with scissors or a matt breaker. Knots are quite common around the ears, jaw, and collar as well as behind the tops of their legs. If they wear a harness regularly, you may find matting from this too. Trim around their eyes and across the bridge of their nose between their eyes regularly — you can do this with blunt scissors, or use a little tool like the Wahl Pocket Pro, which is a little battery operated trimmer. Over bathing can reduce the oils and damage the coat. I usually bathe my dogs every weeks. It is important to use a good quality pet shampoo — dogs have a different PH in their skin to humans, so regular shampoos is not suitable for use on your pets. Fido products are expensive, but I find them very good and this is what I use on the puppies, and my own dogs. Some vets will advocate regular plucking, others may suggest trimming the hair, but regardless, keeping the hair minimal, and the ears clean, with the use of an ear cleanser or a drying agent will reduce the risk of problems. You pop the solution into each ear and massage it for seconds and then wipe it out with a tissue — never use ear buds! Check with your vet for tips on hair removal and which solution to use. Your dogs nails should be done each time they get their coat trimmed and this is a service most dog groomers usually do as part of their clip. If you choose to do this, be sure to get your groomer, or your vet to show you how to trim the nails correctly. Grooming How frequently you choose to get your dog clipped will depend on lifestyle, how long you want their coat to be and, your regular maintenance regimes. Besides you want to enjoy that adorable puppy shagginess for a little while! The Puppy Trim Trim between their eyes so they can see Fringe should be cut so there is an inverted"V"above the nose. If the fringe is thick, it can be neatened with thinning scissors. Trim the ear length back to about 1 cm following the shape of the ear leather. Neaten the face, especially if the beard is long. The Full Clip Ears Trim the ears, following the edge of the ear leather. To gauge the length — pull forward to the nose. The length of the ear should be just short of the nose. Taper the tip of the ear. Hair on the outside of the ear should be layered on the to about 3cm, and the tip of the ear tapered. Trim back any thickness behind the ear. The underside of the ear should be shaved or cut very short underneath to allow good air flow. Trim hair inside the ear canal. Top of the head The top of the head should be natural, and cut long enough that it parts naturally by itself. To trim, pull the hair forward and up and trim to around cm. You want to be able to see the dogs eyes easily. Leave the eyelashes long — it helps to keep hair out of their eyes. Eyes Below the eye at the muzzle, trim the top of the muzzle short at an angle just under the eyes so they can see easily. This makes it easier to clean around the eyes also. Muzzle The beard and moustache should be layered and trimmed into a circular shape, rather than blunt - aim for around cm in length. Body the body can be trimmed to whatever length suits the lifestyle. Tail should be evened up. If the body is left long, the tummy can be trimmed shorter, or even shaved in summer to keep the dog cool. Trim the hair between the pads, so the pads touch the ground. Trim the nails. Taper the hind quarters to the tail gradually. Brush and trim the tail to a natural length, and trim underneath. Private Parts Shave or trim close the dogs private area to keep clean and free from matting and any dags. These two breeds have very different coat types, which we will look at in greater detail. The Poodle Coat The Poodle has a single coat of dense, curly hair that is generally coarse in texture. Unlike the fur of other dogs, the hair continues to grow and gives the impression of not shedding. However, Poodles do shed, but the hair sheds tangles in the curls instead of falling out. But although they are less likely to cause allergy problems, you must consider that many people are allergic to the proteins that dogs produce in their saliva, whatever the breed. The Poodle coat is high maintenance requiring regular clipping by a professional groomer. The topcoat is often wiry and abrasive, medium in length, and water repellent, whereas the undercoat is softer, lighter, and insulating. Labs shed all year round, having a complete blowout twice a year in the spring and fall, so they are not a good choice of dog for those allergic to pet dander. However, their coat is easier to maintain than a Poodle as they do not need clipping. If they have more genetics from the Poodle parent, the coat will most likely be a single layer that is dense, thick, curly, and non-shedding, often referred to as either fleece or wool. However, if your puppy takes after the Labrador Retriever parent, you can guarantee all year shedding and a twice-yearly blowout. Labradoodle Coat Types As a Poodle Labrador Retriever mix, a Labradoodle will have one of three types of coats: Hair coat — This coat is straight and typical of the Labrador breed, shedding often. Labradoodles with a hair coat have a more scruffy appearance than the teddy bear look of many Labradoodles. Fleece coat — This shaggy coat is a beautiful combination of both parent pups and varies from slightly wavy to noticeably wavy. It is soft to touch and has the appearance of wool, being a popular choice with owners as it usually sheds very little or not at all. Wool coat — This coat has the least amount of undercoat, so it does not shed, making it the ideal choice for those with allergies. It is thicker and denser than the fleece or hair coats. Some Labradoodles have tight curls similar to the Poodle, whereas others have looser curls. A wool coat does not have the same dog odor as the other two. A Labradoodle with straight hair will shed all year continuously, but their grooming require ments are far more manageable than those with a wavy or curly coat. A long coat is more prone to matting which is painful for your dog, and why regular clipping and trimming is so important. But whatever coat type your Labradoodle has, they will need their teeth brushed at least three times a week, their ears cleaned once a week, and regular trimming of the nails. How Often Should a Labradoodle be Groomed if it has Straight Hair If your Labradoodle has straight hair, you will need to give them a good brushing and combing session twice a week to keep their shedding under control. The frequency needs to increase to daily sessions during seasonal shedding. Regular bathing also helps remove shedding hair. How Often Should a Labradoodle be Groomed with a Wool or Fleece Coat A Labradoodle which has a fleece or wool coat is more challenging to maintain than one with straight hair and will require brushing at least once a week using a slicker brush to remove mats and tangles. Depending on how fast the fur grows, you will need to take your Labradoodle to a professional groomer to clip their coat every four to twelve weeks. Labradoodle Haircuts Here we look at some of the low maintenance haircuts for a Labradoodle. Short Labradoodle Cut A short haircut is simple and straightforward, with the hair being no more than one inch in length over the whole body, keeping it clean and tangle-free. Long Labradoodle Cut A long haircut is the same as a shortcut, but the hair is two inches long, giving your Labradoodle a cuddly look! This cut will require frequent brushing to keep it tangle-free. Teddy Bear Labradoodle Cut The coat is cut to the length of your choice for the cute teddy bear look, leaving the face and ears with longer hair. This cut is more high maintenance as you will need to do frequent touch-ups. A young Labradoodle can have their first haircut when they are around four to six months old and fully vaccinated. As they develop an adult coat, you can start regular grooming. How Often Should a Labradoodle be Groomed? If your Labradoodle has a fleece or wool coat, it will need grooming approximately every four to twelve weeks to keep the fur clean and free of tangles. A hair coat is far easier to maintain as it just requires brushing twice a week to remove loose hairs. More About Labradoodle Coats. However, they need to get accustom to being handled. They should be brushed, have their ears and teeth looked at, and nails handled or trimmed every day. At around nine to sixteen months the adult coat starts to grow in. The puppy coat does not fall out and will start to cause matts. Brushing thoroughly to pull the puppy coat out from the new adult hair is necessary. This could be a good time to consider a good clip to ease the amount of brushing and formation of mats. It is important to start introducing your puppy to the groomer early so when he is older he will be comfortable with the grooming process. Once your Labradoodle puppy has had all of his shots, he can safely be taken to the groomer. Up to this point, handling and brushing your puppy everyday will prepare him for his first trip to the groomer. Let the groomer know you have a puppy and want to have an introductory visit. Even just for your puppy to meet and have a nail clip might be enough to start a good, calm rapport with the groomer. Follow up visits can begin to include a simple session of brushing, washing, drying, nail clip and ear hair pluck. Your puppy and groomer will be thankful for these small visits every weeks so puppy can get used to all of the sights, sounds and sensations till he is ready for a full clip. Grooming Your Adult Labradoodle You can maintain a long fleece coat with thorough brushing weekly. A curly fleece will need more attention than a wavy fleece. Curlier coats will be easier to maintain if it is kept shorter. Many owners have their labradoodles clipped two to four times a year depending on personal preference, lifestyle and curliness of the fleece. They get a full groom with a 1. For your doodle to not look like a poodle, talk to your groomer about what you want. Pictures of a well groomed labradoodle can help. Regular bathing is mostly unnecessary. Even after getting muddy, it will dry and fall off or can be brushed out. If you take your Labradoodle to the groomer regularly, they should take care of the nails adequately. Pay special attention to the ears. The hair in and around the outside of the ear canal clogs the inside and prevents air flow. This can cause ear infections. The hair needs to be pulled out of the ear canal and kept trimmed around the opening and under the ear. This can be done every months. Your groomer should be doing this and will keep it maintained. Also, if you do not use a groomer often, make sure the hair around the anus does not get too long and cause problems with waste build up. Brushing Your Labradoodle When your Labradoodle has short hair, an inch or two, regular brushing with a pin brush or slicker can work just fine. Once the hair gets longer, it is important to make sure you are reaching all the way to the base of the hair. If not, loose hair is not removed below the surface and matts will begin to form. If that hair builds up, it is not going to be possible to clip the hair at a decent length and the only alternative will be to shave the hair close to the skin. In order to keep a coat longer than and inch or so, you will want to use a technique called line brushing. Line Brushing It is simply done by parting the coat with your free hand and brushing the loose hair on the other side of the part, starting at the base of the hair. With every other stroke or so, you can bring down a small bit of the hair being held up by your hand. You will slowly move your hand up that section of coat. Start low on a section of the body and work your way up. Using the edge of the pin brush, start brushing from the part, down the length of the hair. Complete the stroke to the end of the hair. Repeat till smooth and ready to continue. Pick up a small amount of hair from the other side of the part to continue the process, working your way up that section of the body.