15 week old german shepherd puppy

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, and I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links. Take back control of their behavior using these quick and easy solutions to stop German Shepherd biting that actually works. Even better, have a set of toys that are only used when you want to engage in play with your puppy. Hide these toys in a basket or box after your game of play. This makes them extra special. They are under your control and your dog must give them back to you. Special toys are more fun for your pup to bite than you. When in doubt of what special toy your dog likes, choose from this specially-curated list of what toys German Shepherds love for interactive toy ideas to keep your dog entertained. Say OUCH! When your pup bites you, say OUCH firmly. This simple technique catches the attention of many puppies when done correctly and can train a German Shepherd puppy to not bite you. You could also make a YIP sound instead, just like their little brother and sisters would make a yipping noise when playing too rough. If they continue to bite and nip, say OUCH again and then get up immediately and leave the room for a few moments. You may return to play but keep repeating this simple process until they learn to keep their teeth on their toys. This will only encourage them to continue their unwanted behavior. Use Puppy-Safe Partition Gates Only use pet-safe partition gates that are high enough to prevent your German Shepherd from jumping over. If your pup bites you aggressively when you and your family walk past you, then use an exercise pen or this German Shepherd-sized pet safe partition gate to contain them. Only use pet-safe partition gates that are high enough to prevent and discourage your German Shepherd from jumping over to continue to try and bite you. Use the items during busy times in your home to keep your dog calm and out of areas that might increase their excitement and biting and nipping you. Puppies tend to bite and chew when their teeth are coming in. They do this to relieve the pain and help soothe themselves. Freeze a durable large Kong with their favorite treats and kibble and have them on hand for times when your dog is acting out and biting you. Give them a Kong to gnaw on and bring icy relief to their gums. Plus, chewing has been shown to help relax and calm dogs. Redirections are actions that keep your pup from engaging in unwanted behavior by showing them appropriate behavior. For example: When your dog nips you, find their teething toy to bite instead. When your dog jumps on you to bite your hands or ankles, look around for a Kong to give to them to bite on. Squeaky toys like this toy that continues to squeak , even after a puncture, are ideal to distract your dog from your hand to another object. These toys differ from their special toys mentioned above because these redirection toys are ones you leave out for your pup to chew most of the time. So, be sure to have them nearby! Use Daily Leadership Skills How many times a day do you teach your German Shepherd to listen to you and offer them leadership? Use daily interactions as an effective way of teaching your dog about leadership. Have them sit before you take them for a walk or exiting a door. Ignore them altogether. Only offer them interaction and come back to them when they show you calming behaviors. Our dogs love our attention. And German Shepherds crave it! An overfed dog that is under-exercised may display destructive behaviors because of boredom and lack of energy needs being met. Get up off the couch and go outside for a walk and sniff party. Low impact activities and free-running off-leash running are best. Choose from a list of fun and gentle, age-appropriate German Shepherd puppy exercises to keep your pup healthy and better behaved. Stop roughhousing with your dog before it frustrates them. Use appropriate, puppy-safe toys instead of play sessions. This way, your pup can bite the toy instead of your fingers, hands, or arms. You may also stress out your GSD by engaging them rough of play. For your pup to either keep up with the play or stop you from too rough play, they may bite you! From day one, avoid play that involves mouthing or teeth on the skin. Use toys to provide your dog a way they can bite to release their energy… Without nipping you! And this game is great because it teaches your dog a necessary life skill. Practice the game: multiple times a day for 2 to 3 minutes at a time Your pup learns impulse control during the game and this transfers over to their ability to stop themselves from biting you. Read below for the easy-to-follow directions. If your dog gets too worked up and then bites, then teach them this Rev Up and Cool Down game. After a few running steps and before your pup gets too excited, stop running and walk slowly. Keep moving slowly until your dog also slows down. When you see them slow down, take a few more steps calmly and peacefully. Continue with steps one through three. Each time your dog should slow down sooner and quicker. If your puppy knows any of these basic German Shepherd commands , incorporate those commands to make the training more interesting and fun. The link above will also easily explain how to teach over ten commands! The point of the Rev Up and Cool Down game is to teach them to settle and stay calm without nipping and biting you. You need to keep your pup exercised, mentally stimulated, and show them what calming behavior is. Be fair and understanding. A Shepherd is a joy to own when given the direction they desire and the commitment they need. Found this helpful? Share it! She has a Bachelor of Science degree, with Honors, and has been training dogs for over a decade. Related Posts. This is especially true with dogs like German Shepherds because they have a strong prey drive, but this nipping and biting can also quickly get out of hand. This often comes out as biting and nipping, but puppies will also bite when they are teething and to taste the world around them. This can, of course, quickly get out of hand if not taken care of swiftly. In this article, we look at the reasons behind German Shepherd puppies biting and seven steps to help stop the behavior. Training The first and most important step in stopping your puppy from biting is early and focused training. Beginning training at an early age is vital for powerful dogs like GSDs, as without it, they can easily develop problematic behaviors and even become aggressive. An important part of training is socialization, and getting your GSD to interact with other dogs will help teach them boundaries, as any biting too hard will have instant consequences for them. Image Credit: AnjaGh, Pixabay 2. Toys Toys are ideal for your GSD puppy to exercise their teething. There is a massive variety of suitable chew toys available, and whenever you notice your pooch getting the urge to chew, you can gently offer them a chew toy instead. Commands Basic and simple commands should be taught to your GSD from a young age. Whenever they get overexcited and bite down too hard, you can then simply issue a verbal command that catches their attention. After you issue the commands, leave your puppy alone for a few minutes so they learn that this behavior is unacceptable. Image Credit: Jim Sluder, Pixabay 4. Redirection Redirection is a useful tool in training and can work well with biting too. This method is simple and works by keeping your pup from unwanted behavior and offering them appropriate behavior instead. Whenever your pooch bites or nips, try to offer them a chew toy of some kind instead, and this will gradually lead them to chew toys as opposed to your hands. Squeak toys are great for this type of redirection, as the noise is enticing to most puppies and dogs. Reward good behavior Positive reinforcement training methods are best for leading your puppy toward desired behaviors and away from unwanted ones. These methods involve no scolding or harsh treatment, so they are ideal for cementing the bond between you and your pup. When you offer your dog a chew toy instead of biting and they take it or you issue a command that they instantly follow, you simply reward that behavior with either a treat or praise. You ignore any bad behavior. They will swiftly associate treats with good behavior and stop the bad behavior that gets them no attention. Image Credit: Happy monkey, Shutterstock 6. Games Since GSDs are such powerful and athletic animals, they need to be mentally and physically stimulated through games and interactive play. Games are also the best time to engage and enforce training techniques and get your GSD accustomed to them before biting gets out of hand. Stick to simple games like fetch or frisbee, where you can train your pooch to give the ball back when you tell them to. Harsh treatments like hitting or shouting are highly unlikely to solve the problem and will probably just make it worse, as your dog will simply become nervous and wary of you. With a powerful dog like German Shepherds, trust is vital. They are highly intelligent and aware animals, and the smallest of sounds or movements are enough to set them off. There are several reasons for this, including: GSD puppies will begin teething as early as 2 weeks old, and this can be uncomfortable and even painful for them. This behavior can go on until your puppy is 6 months old, and they will chew on almost anything that they can find — including your hand — in an attempt to try and soothe their discomfort. Separated too young. The first 2 months of your GSDs life is vital to their socialization and learning, and if they are taken away from their mother and litter too young, this may cause a lack of understanding of boundaries. Puppies will play and learn with the rest of their littermates, where they learn to control the force of their bite. GSDs should be at least 8 weeks old before they are re-homed. Fear or overstimulation. Fear, anxiety, and overstimulation are common reasons for puppies to lose control of their bite because this can cause them to become irritable or defensive and lead them into the habit of biting. Conclusion Since German Shepherds are such powerful dogs, proper training is vital, and bite inhibition is an essential part of that training. Proper training is the vital first step and will set the tone for all other methods. With time, consistency, patience, and gentle leadership, your German Shepherd puppy should kick the biting habit in no time. Puppies Have you ever reached down to play with a German Shepherd puppy, only to have that adorable little fur-ball pierce your skin with its razor-sharp puppy teeth? When I brought Allie into the family, she was fully in the German Shepherd puppy biting phase — so that first month was tough! Unfortunately, biting is an inevitable phase of puppyhood — it comes with the territory when you decide to be a puppy parent. My goal with this guide is to get you through the biting stage with as few battle scars as possible. Why do German Shepherd Puppies Bite? Up until this time, your puppy was with its littermates, and playtime meant lots of mouthy, nipping fun. Accordingly, this is the only way your GSD knows how to play! A German Shepherd puppy also uses their mouths to explore different things like toys — or hands, ankles, furniture… pretty much anything they can get their mouth around. Your puppy could also be teething, which can increase their mouthy behavior. Just be patient as you work through the German Shepherd puppy biting phase — give your pup time to learn to be gentle when playing or seeking your attention. Nothing is worse than an ankle-biter! I was very lucky not to have this problem with Allie. Why does your German Shepherd puppy target the ankles? Because your GSD is a working dog trying to do its job — herd you around the house like livestock. German Shepherds were originally bred for herding flocks of sheep. Your furry pal may also think heel nipping is just a really fun game. Using a toy as a distraction and keeping your pup active will help nip ankle nipping in the bud! Because she was too busy biting hands! There are lots of reasons why a pup may decide to start biting your hands. For one, good things treats, toys, love, attention come from hands. Also, hands are almost like swinging toys from the perspective of a playful pup — too enticing to pass up! How to Discourage Biting Behavior While the German Shepherd puppy biting phase is a rite of passage, there are some ways you can discourage bad biting behavior without harsh discipline. This is one of the most effective ways to teach your German Shepherd bite inhibition — or how to be gentle with her teeth. Think about when your pup was rolling and playing with their brothers and sisters — if your GSD was too rough, their sibling would let out a yelp. This trick worked great with Allie! Just make sure to be consistent until your pup gets the idea and learns to master the power of her jaws. Puppies will be puppies! Redirect the biting to an appropriate toy. For example, when your fuzzy friend latches onto your ankles, give a little puppy-like yelp, and then whip out a toy and encourage your dog to chew on that instead. Tug-of-war is the perfect game for the puppy biting phase. Socialize your puppy as much as possible. Other dogs are great at teaching your puppy that they playing too rough and biting too hard. Try a deterrent to prevent your dog from chewing or biting. If all else fails, there are lots of products designed to deter your dog from bad biting behavior. How do they work? Well, they taste awful. But if used correctly, they can definitely work. This is still attention — your puppy bites, your puppy gets attention. Otherwise, your pup may see this as a fun new game, kind of like tug-of-war but with your hands or feet as the toy. You want your furball to love playing with you! The goal here is to encourage your German Shepherd to play as much as ever but to play gently. As a pup, Allie thought she should greet everyone by jumping in their face and nipping — kind of like a kiss hello, but with teeth. And as she got bigger, it was harder to control. But trust me, it got old quickly. Be proactive. If I knew someone was coming over, I would put Allie in another room or in her crate. Once our visitor was in the house and the initial excitement had passed, I would let her out. By keeping her from greeting people right when they walked through the door, I could minimize her overzealous behavior. This is a simple command that teaches your dog to stay in her place until you give a release command. This is another way to allow the initial excitement to pass and your German Shepherd to calm down a bit before greeting anyone. Redirect attention to a toy like I talked about earlier. Fold your arms and turn away. Keep turning until your GSD stops jumping, then praise them and use a treat as a reward. What to Do If Biting Becomes Aggressive Although puppy mouthing is normal, there can be cases where biting can signal problems and possibly even aggression. Look for physical differences in your pup. If your puppy is having a moment of aggression, their body may stiffen when snarling, and bites will typically be more painful than during regular play. Also, if your GSD puppy is biting out of fear or frustration, you may need to take action. These types of behavior are not something your pup will just grow out of. While the biting phase will inevitably end, you may find yourself asking the infamous question — when do German Shepherds calm down!? I asked myself and our vet this question more than once! It honestly just depends. Sure, she had her calm moments thanks in part to her training , but she was still very hyper especially in more excitable moments. The type of German Shepherd dog is yet another variable that plays a role in its energy levels. So when do German Shepherds calm down? It really depends on your individual German Shepherd. Final Thoughts Unfortunately, the German Shepherd puppy biting phase is something all GSD puppy owners will go through, but it will pass. Try the tips above to help keep your sanity during this phase. Or any tips to help the rest of us? Please share! An aggressive pound dog pouncing on you can get quite ugly fast. Think broken bones, damaged muscles, deep lacerations, bruises, scars, and expensive medical bills. German Shepherds have a bite force of PSI pound-force per square inch, or the measure of strength that a bite inflicts on the victim , compared to humans with a bite force of PSI. In fact, the American Animal Hospital Association lists the German Shepherd as one of the six breeds with the most dangerous bites, based on a US study. Therefore, training your GSD to inhibit her bite is mandatory as it not only rewards you with a well-behaved dog, but also ensures your safety as well as the safety of the people around you. A crucial step towards correcting this nasty behavior is to first understand why German Shepherd puppies bite. Nipping or biting stems from various reasons. Understanding the root of the behavior will equip you with the proper corresponding countermeasures to correct it. German Shepherds Have a High Prey Drive One of the primary and distinct characteristics thatmake a German Shepherd a popular choice for police and military work is their high prey drive, coupled with their intelligence and high trainability. Take a look at the video below showing what GSDs were originally bred for. GSDs also have a natural inclination to chase almost everything that moves in their surroundings. They Are Teething As early as two weeks old, the baby teeth of pups start to come out. Puppies use their mouth to explore their environment, so nipping is to be expected. This behavior, called teething, can last until the puppy is six months old when all her adult teeth have started showing. Teething is very uncomfortable for puppies and can lead to sore gums, so puppies turn to anything to chew to soothe the discomfort. Unfortunately, this can include biting you! They May Be Taken From the Litter Too Early Young puppies learn to naturally inhibit their biting through socialization with their mother and their siblings. A puppy does not quite understand yet the force of her own bite unless she bites too hard and the recipient reacts by yelping out of pain. Taking a puppy away from her mother prematurely will therefore deprive her the chance to learn important socialization skills. As a rule of thumb, the American Kennel Club AKC recommends that you take home a puppy that is no less than eight weeks old. By this time, the puppy should have had ample time to interact with her playmates and learn bite inhibition. We concur that you should never take home a puppy that is less than 8 weeks old. In fact, more than half of the states in the U. This does not mean, however, that your puppy will completely stop nipping. As the new parent, it is your job to continue training the dog so that any subsequent bites should be gentler. For more on selecting the right German Shepherd puppy from a litter, including additional information on the proper age, what to look for in a puppy, and what to expect from ethical breeders, be sure to check out the 2 articles linked below: How to Buy a German Shepherd Puppy: A Step-by-Step Guide The Puppy Might Be Overstimulated, Fearful, or Anxious Sometimes puppies lose control of their bite because of overstimulation. Overstimulation can happen during playtime, or when your puppy has become cranky due to teasing. Your GSD puppy may also bite out of fear. Your puppy has but 2 defenses — to run away or to bite. If your puppy feels cornered, then biting is the defense that she will most often resort to. Because biting is normal canine behavior and GSDs are a breed that is more prone to it, the goal here is to inhibit the bite, not completely stop it. Do Start Training Early We keep mentioning throughout this site that training and socializing your GSD as soon as you get her home is crucial. Although training older dogs is not impossible, it is true that it is easier to train younger puppies, when habits are still new and can be easily corrected. If left untrained, adult German Shepherds can be prone to aggression towards other animals and humans, which can result in tragic situations. To get a better understanding of what is involved with these necessary steps, be sure to read these 2 excellent articles: German Shepherd Training Guide: All You Need to Know Do Use Toys as Alternative Items to Chew Puppies will nib on your hands or your feet especially during the teething stage. Train this behavior away by offering the puppy a toy whenever she starts biting your hand or your ankles. This teaches her what is acceptable to bite and which is not. It is good practice to always keep a chew toy nearby in anticipation of the biting behavior. She needs to understand that biting ends playtime and that it does not give her anything in return. In the Alpha Roll , the human pins down the dog on the floor on his side or back and holds that position to exert dominance. Besides, it has also been proven in many studies that dogs have very different behavior from wolves. Pinning your dog will cause him to freeze out of fear, which can also turn into aggression. It also teaches your dog that physical touch is something to be feared. Nobody wants to be punished by hand, not humans and certainly not dogs either. Do Reward Good Behavior Dog trainers and experts agree that positive reinforcement using rewards are highly effective in forming and keeping desirable behaviors as a puppy matures into an adult dog. If her nose touches your fingers without biting them, give her a treat and praise generously. Hold off the treat if she bites. Do this repeatedly until she associates the treat the reward with not biting your hand the good behavior. In fact, most dog bite cases in children occurred because of teasing! Instead, teach your child to be gentle with your pet , as even unintentional rough play can result in unwanted events. Dogs get cranky too, especially when they get hurt or feel that their privacy is being invaded. Never leave your child alone with your puppy unattended. Supervise their interactions at all times. Studies show that parents trust their dog around their kids too much that they overlook the signs that the dog is in distress. For tug games, keep in mind, however, that your dog must be calm and not overstimulated before playing. Otherwise, your puppy may get too serious and hold on to the rope too much. The AKC recommends that for breeds that are prone to aggression such as German Shepherds, tug-of-war can be safely carried out if the puppy knows you are in control and follows your commands. Once this has been established, a game of tugging can be used both as an exercise and as a reward for your dog. When playing, always remember to be gentle with tugging as your puppy still has baby teeth! By doing this, you are also socializing your puppy with other animals — an essential skill to learn for a well-rounded behavior. That being said, do not completely write off playing with your puppy! Playtime is still an excellent opportunity to bond with your dog, but make sure to keep it safe and fun by establishing boundaries. This method, however, is a matter of trial and error. Some puppies respond to this positively. On the other hand, many puppies get aroused by this and become even more aggressive. If you yelp and she stops biting without expressing any signs of aggression, the method has perhaps worked. You are then free to continue doing so until the puppy learns to stop biting hard. On the other hand, temper tantrums, according to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals , are characterized by a stiff body, lips pulled back to show teeth, and growling. Biting will be more forceful and painful, since the behavior is typically caused by fear or anger. A German Shepherd puppy may be more prone to displaying this behavior, especially around unruly children. Bite inhibition is crucial especially among German Shepherds, a breed that is widely reported to be the culprit of many dog bites in America. Bite inhibition is simply one of the many important skills that your GSD must learn during her training. It can spell the difference between gentle playing and aggressive biting that leads to serious injuries. Always remember that dogs have feelings, too. They are not perfect little angels that never get angry. Even the most well-mannered dog in the world will snap out of irritation.

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I have been blessed with a man that is nothing short of the hardest working beau you've ever met and five ingenious children. Our animals have as much personality as the people in our family do. We spend a lot of days laughing, caring well for what we have stewardship over, and enjoying the gifts we have been given. I love beautiful things designed by God. I cherish peaceful, quiet mornings when the air is crisp and you can see life in your own breath. Anything family is a joy with the many diverse gifts we share with each other. I claim to be a good cook only when I follow the creative young soul from Half Baked Harvest, otherwise coffee with a little cream will do. Oh… and Fabulous is my favorite word. Labradoodle Puppies for sale. Breeders of quality Australian Labradoodles, with helpful information about doodle dogs. Home Discover the joy of owning a fun-loving, exceptional Australian Labradoodle from GorgeousDoodles. Treat yourself and your family to the gift of a delightful and loyal companion today! Gorgeousdoodles is where happy wagging prancing soul-mates are found. Come find out why an Australian Labradoodle is an ideal family dog. Please contact us for current availability and info on upcoming litters expected soon! At GorgeousDoodles, our commitment to our dogs is unwavering. They are cherished members of our family, receiving love and care every step of the way. Our puppies are born and raised in our home, ensuring they are well-socialized from the start. We take great pride in providing them with a nurturing environment. After many generations of breeding the Australian Labradoodle, characteristics have been securely established. We have extensive knowledge about dog temperaments, nutritional requirements, health, social behaviors, and training. Join us in celebrating the joy they bring! Good Dog provides valuable educational resources for breeders and pet families. Our partnership with Good Dog highlights our commitment to the Australian Labradoodle breed and the incredible work we do. We are a small home-based breeder of Puppy Culture raised Australian labradoodles in Southern Colorado. We breed medium and standard-sized Australian labradoodles. We only breed for the enjoyment of the puppies and to further promote labradoodles that are of excellent health, conformation, and temperament. Our Australian labradoodles are bred with responsibility and integrity. Our goal is to place these special dogs into homes where they will be loved and cherished companions. We stand by you, and offer continuous lifetime support. We do this because we love dogs, and the Labradoodle breed. Labradoodles are known for their intelligence, level-headedness, affection, sociability and cheerful disposition. They are loyal, friendly, eager to please, even-tempered, gentle and kind. This combination of traits makes them outstanding service and therapy dogs, as well as terrific family companions. We produce exceptional labradoodles because each litter is carefully planned. We keep two vital factors in mind as we make our selection: temperament and health. Each puppy born in our home is handled daily. Colorado Mountain Labradoodles utilize early neurological stimulation, as well as the puppy culture method which represents a gold standard in puppy rearing and early socialization. We also use both the Empowered Breeder, and Avidog Evaluation Test to evaluate the temperament of each puppy. A lot of doodle breeders are now claiming they raise their puppies using the Puppy Culture. There are lots of reinforcement based breeders out there who are doing a magnificent job but have never seen Puppy Culture, or followed the whole protocol. Make sure the breeder provides videos, and other information on their weekly updates. We follow Puppy Culture thoroughly, and by the time our puppies are 8 weeks old, they have been started on the commands: sit, down, watch me and go to your place. They have been conditioned with the clicker, and are excited to be trained. Our Australian labradoodles are highly intelligent and are simple to train. They quickly learn standard obedience commands, such as sit, down, come and stay. They thrive on being mentally and physically engaged. They love playing and interacting with people and other dogs, especially in games involving chase, fetch or hide-and-seek. Families also find that our labradoodles enjoy participating in competitive canine activities, such as tricks, agility and obedience. As with almost any breed, their socialization and training should start at an early age and continue throughout their life. They share a love of water with their field Labrador and Poodle ancestors and often will enter water without prompting. All of our puppies receive love and care from everyone in the family. By the time they are ready to go home with you, they will be used to children and other dogs, and ready to go home to be a loving member of your family. Our dogs are treated as family, and are included in our daily routines. To Red Rock Doodles Red Rock Doodles is committed to breeding high quality multigen Standard size Australian Labradoodles that are not only adorable, but genetically sound. We have also been vetted and recognized by GoodDog www. We have focused our program on breeding only standard size Australian Labradoodles to ensure more consistency in coats and temperaments, and to reduce incidence of certain health issues. We are a serious small hobby breeder of multi-generation Australian Labradoodles. While the breed is the result of crossing several generations of Labradoodles that have the ancestry of Labrador Retriever, Poodle, and Cocker Spaniel either American or English , the Australian Labradoodle is more than a simple crossbreed — they are a breed in development with more than 4 decades of dedicated efforts to create a more consistent and predictable coat type, size and personality than the Labradoodle. We have found the Australian labradoodle to be the perfect blend of personality, intelligence, sweetness and curiosity along with a low-allergy low-shed fleece coat! We spend a lot of time outdoors hiking and biking and enjoying the lakes and streams in Colorado and northern Arizona. With homes in Arizona and Colorado, we typically will have a fall or winter litter in Arizona and a summer litter in Colorado. We would love to share our experience and love for this wonderful breed with everyone! 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Top Picks For Our Dogs Preparing Your Home For A Puppy You should treat the preparation of your home for the arrival of a new puppy in much the same way as you would for the arrival of a baby because the process is almost identical. You must be ready to provide every little thing your puppy needs in life, making sure they have water, are fed, comfortable, happy, catered for and safe. To achieve this there are 4 main things that you need to do: Go shopping for equipment and supplies Puppy proof your home and garden to make sure your puppy stays safe Set up an area for your puppy to sleep and spend time in when you cannot supervise them Decide on the rules and routines required to successfully raise a puppy Without such preparation, things will be difficult. A Nutritious Puppy Food The most important supply needed for a new puppy is a highly nutritious puppy food. Hopefully your puppy came from a responsible breeder who was feeding them a high quality, complete and nutritious food. If so, you should ask what they were feeding, stock up on and continue feeding this if possible. If not, then puppies are incredibly active, growing fast and developing bone, muscle and more every day. Because of this they need almost double the calories, more protein and have different nutritional needs to mature adult dogs. Furthermore, they have far smaller mouths than adult dogs so puppy food comes in smaller chunks more suited to their size. Click here to see our recommendations for the best puppy food for labs Bowls for Food And Water There is a bewildering array of dog bowl choices out there so choosing the best can be difficult. Looks and design aside, I recommend going for stainless steel bowls because they are long-lasting, cannot be chewed and are very easy to clean. I also recommend buying bowls with heavy rubber bottoms so they stay rooted to the spot and are harder to spill or flip over. Unless of course you buy bowls in a stand, then these problems are already solved. A Puppy Crate And Bedding A good crate is one of the most beneficial things you can provide for the good of yourself and your puppy. First of all, supply some bedding to place inside for your puppy to sleep on. My recommendation for this is VetBed. Many puppies can chew and ingest normal bedding which can result in medical emergencies and VetBed is the most durable bedding on the market. During these times you need to provide a larger, but still safe enclosure to confine your puppy. You might also like to buy a plastic sheet and some puppy pads or use lots of old newspaper for them to use as a potty in your absence. Puppy Chew Toys Puppies chew. A lot. And they seem to prefer chewing phones, footwear and TV remotes more than anything else. Just make sure whatever toys you do buy are suitable for a puppy as many will be too large for their little mouths to begin with. Interactive Puppy Toys So you can play games with your puppy, provide exercise and mental stimulation, you will want to buy a few toys that encourage the two of you to interact. Balls for throwing and chasing, soft toys and ropes for playing tug, other toys for fetch, there are many available. You will also need a collar to provide a place to attach an all important ID tag. ID Tag An ID tag is an essential means to be reunited with your puppy should the worst happen and you somehow lose them or they run away. Clicker A clicker is an extremely useful tool used during training as a reward marker that dramatically improves the timing of communication between you and your puppy when you want to reward a behavior. Although not essential, I do highly recommend you use one. Puppy Training Treats Tasty food treats are the go-to reward used during training so you will want to make sure you always have a good stock at hand. They need to feel happy with being bathed, happy having their coat and teeth brushed, their feet touched, nails clipped and having their eyes and ears inspected. To do so, you should fake going the process, getting them used to being handled, the sight and feel of the tools and so on. To achieve this, you will need to buy and get them used to the following items: Dog shampoo Combs and brushes suitable for a Labrador Scissors Cotton balls Toothbrush Use these tools right away and often, and give your puppy praise and tasty treats as you go so they form positive associations with grooming. Puppy Proof Your Home and Garden The process of puppy proofing your home is very much like baby proofing before the arrival of a child. Except a puppy is far more curious, active and destructive and can get themselves into far more trouble. A puppy is a new-born. Everything is a toy and they will run and pounce and jump and chew on anything in their environment. So before you bring your puppy home you simply must make it safe for them. For things you cannot move skirting boards, table legs etc. To keep them safe while still providing an area for them to play in and stretch their legs, you want to restrict their access to a single room, or otherwise create an enclosed space for them. To do so, either buy a pet barrier or baby gate that goes across a doorway to restrict them to an easy to clean and safe room, or buy an exercise pen puppy pen to create an enclosed space in another room. I also strongly recommend buying a crate for many reasons, but initially, mostly just to provide the perfect place for them to sleep. I shall discuss crate training a little later in this article. All of this must be decided BEFORE you get your puppy home because consistency is a key part of raising a puppy successfully. Everyone must enforce and live by the same rules for your puppy to thrive. Initially they have no idea how you want them to behave, or how and when they can expect the things they want and need in life. The more consistent everybody is with the puppy, the quicker they will learn all this stuff and the happier everyone will be. So decide and write down if necessary when your puppy will have all their needs met, make sure everybody knows who is responsible for each task and make sure everybody knows the rules. You might think the collection and journey home with your new puppy is no big deal, but there are many things can go wrong. Therefore, you should never take a puppy before 8 weeks old. During the first 8 weeks, a puppy learns a lot from their mother and litter-mates: Bite inhibition, canine body language, acceptable play and interaction with other dogs and how to accept discipline. Things you will find it very hard to teach them later yourself. The flip side of this is that the 7 to 14 week stage is the most impressionable for a puppy, where they bond strongest with people and must be socialized to all the sights, sounds and smells of the world so they grow up confident and comfortable with their surroundings. So anyway, for the journey home there a few things you need to consider: Safety in the car, the need for water and toilet breaks and the possibility your puppy will be sick. Having a loose puppy in the car presents a very real danger of leading to a crash, they can easily climb out of a box and now is not the time to use a harness and car safety belt. If the crate is small enough you can place it on a front or rear passenger seat and secure it with the seat-belt, or you may have to place it in the trunk of your car. Fully line the crate with absorbent paper in case there are any accidents, this will keep most of the mess off your puppy and make cleaning easier. And finally, place a chew toy or two in the crate to keep your puppy occupied. If you have another person to help you, your puppy can ride home in their lap if the journey is short. They must be under your passengers control. They will also need to potty every half or so. Therefore, you should plan breaks along the way every 30 minutes or so. Stop the car, allow them to drink, then wait for them to wee before setting off again. When you stop, make sure your puppy is on leash and tightly held by someone before letting them out of the car. And as an extra precaution, carry your puppy and only put them down to do their business, then carry them back into the car. Take with you some towels, plastic bags, kitchen roll and deodorizer to take care of any accidents. And when driving, take all corners slowly, and accelerate and brake gently. If your puppy is on a passengers lap, they will be able to see some warning signs that puppy is about to be sick: Their lips will curl, they will excessively salivate and then eventually start to heave. When your passenger spots these signs, they can place a thick towel beneath the puppy to catch everything and avoid a mess in your vehicle. When bringing home a new puppy, make sure you collect them and then drive straight home. Your puppy is having the most stressful day of their short life so far, try not to make it harder than it already is by taking them to strange places and passing them around to strangers to say hello. You want to get them home quickly so they can start the process of settling in as soon as possible. Whether this is inside on paper, or a spot outside, as soon as you arrive home carry them there, set them down and wait for them to do their business before doing anything else. This might take 30 seconds or it might take 10 minutes, but patiently wait and when they go, praise them profusely. Well done! Shut them in another room away from the puppy as things are intense enough as it is. Explain they have to be calm and gentle during the first introductions. Let them sniff and look around, getting used to the area and their new little world. You can now let people come and say hello. Have people sit or kneel to greet them. Once everybody has said hello, you should stay with your puppy, show interest but stay calm. Allow Your Puppy To Sleep After all the excitement, stress, massive change and huge amount of mental stimulation your puppy has just been through, they will likely need to sleep soon after arriving at your home. So as soon as they either start to look tired, or the introductions to their new living space and family have ended whichever comes first put them to bed for a short while. On the other hand they might feel completely overwhelmed, retreat into themselves and show reluctance to explore. They might slink into a corner silently and sit there watching their new world with wonder but apprehension, before falling asleep for hours. And when it comes to the first night they might sleep right through, or they might cry and whine the whole night. As your puppy begins to get used to everything, their character will start to shine through and you will begin to see their true personalities. Exactly what this will be is different for every puppy…it will be fun for you to find out! And by being the provider of everything they need in life, giving them all that is good, it will only take 2 or 3 days for your puppy to learn to love you and get excited and happy to see you when you turn up. So your task is to set up and stick to these schedules, begin training your puppy and help them to learn how you want them to behave and when they can expect the things they need in life. What should you feed your puppy You should feed your puppy the same food they had at the breeders because an abrupt change in diet almost always leads to stomach upset. Complete and balanced means it has everything a puppy needs, and in the right quantities. So seek out this kind of wording and check the internet for other owners reviews. Puppies need to eat a lot because their rate of growth is very high. For puppies up to 12 weeks, you should divide their daily requirement into 4 portions, for puppies 12 to 26 weeks, feed them 3 times per day and from 26 weeks on feed them twice per day. You should also aim to feed them as close as you can to the same times every day and evenly spaced throughout the day. This will help their body clocks fall into a pattern and will help your house training immensely because they then potty the same times every day. For example: 8 to 12 weeks old, 4 times a day at AM, AM, PM and PM 12 to 26 weeks old, 3 times a day at AM, PM and PM 26 weeks old and ongoing, 2 times a day at and Obviously you can adjust these times to take into account when you get out of bed and to fit around your life. Also… The first few nights have the crate or exercise pen your puppy sleeps in placed in your bedroom. One night move the crate next to the bedroom door. The next night move it outside the door, but leave the door open so they can still see you. The next night further into the hallway. Finally to their eventual resting place. They might take to sleeping on their own OK, they might whine and cry. NEVER go to them to comfort them if they cry, you must only get up to take them to potty and then silently and without fuss put them back into the crate. Rewarding silence and ignoring noise is the only way they will eventually learn to be quiet at night themselves. Any time you cannot closely supervise them, you have to confine them, either in their crate, an exercise pen or a puppy proofed room secured with a barrier across the doorway. The point of confining them as a puppy is so they can enjoy all the freedom in the world once they are an adult. By confining them with treat dispensing chew toys they get rewarded for chewing the right things and develop a chew toy obsession. Confine them now, they form a good chew toy obsession and have no chance of developing bad chewing habits. Then once they are over their adolescent chewing stage you slowly open up the house to them and eventually they can have free roam and be completely trusted. A little sacrifice when young for a better life later. And a second hugely important reason for confining your puppy when you cannot supervise them is for speedier house training. In fact if you read my comments from earlier, you will see you start the very first moment you finish the journey home. In essence, house training is about creating good habits while avoiding bad ones and for the speediest success you want to start immediately. Wherever your puppy is able to potty has the chance of becoming their favored toilet spot for many weeks or months to come. So you want to prevent them pottying inside, and encourage them to potty outside. The main ingredients of a successful house training program are preventing mistakes and praising heavily for doing the right thing. Achieving this is all about schedules, supervision and confinement. Now, your puppy will need to potty anywhere from every 15 to 45 minutes. So to start with, take them outside every 30 minutes and adjust this schedule to suit their natural rhythm. You must also take them outside immediately after they wake up from any sleep, after any eating or drinking, after play and after any heightened excitement. These are times that often lead to a puppy needing to potty so take them outside at these times and you will avoid many mistakes while taking advantage of predictable opportunities to praise them for doing the right thing. In the first week or so, you will likely find your puppy almost instantaneously leaks with little warning. Simply do your best to take them out to potty extremely often so they go in the right place as often as possible. And confine them to a single enclosed room or in an exercise pen for the first week or so to protect your carpets. Crate training goes hand in hand with house training, being one of the best tools to help speed up the process. Therefore, you want to start crate training very early on, after just a few days of getting puppy home, and I personally aim for 9 weeks old to start. I prefer to wait a week or so to avoid them pottying in the crate as much as possible, doing the most I can to preserve their instinct not to soil where they sleep, the instinct that helps most when using a crate for house training. But by all means sleep them in their crate at night if you wish and I do. For more information on crate training your puppy and using it for house training purposes, please see the links below:. Cape Town, South Africa In retrospect, we didn't have a clue about bringing a new puppy home, even though I'd done a lot of reading and we had bought all the essentials. I'd read that I should take his bed with us and get his mum to lie on it -- which she did promptly when we put it down! We also took a big teddy and rubbed his mum with it to get her smell and to this day, that teddy is on his bed, just a tiny hole chewed into it, but amazingly was spared the puppy gnawing that most other toys went through and didn't survive! A vet who had bought one of the other boys had brought along a special collar with pheromones that apparently calm a distressed puppy and help him think his mom is around. She had cut it to size and left the leftover length with the breeder. The breeder put it on Snowie and said it would help.We had about an 8-hour journey ahead of us including stops. I held Snowie on my lap initially on top of the "smelly" teddy with his mum's smell and he cried and cried and cried and cried and I told my husband we should turn around and take him back to his mum and siblings, it was so distressing. But we persevered and about an hour later he stopped crying and settled down. We stopped a lot because we thought he'd want to wee every half an hour! I don't know why we were terrified he'd wee or poo in the car -- so what! But we stopped every moment it looked like he wanted to "go", and each time he didn't, so clearly we had no clue what "wanting to go" looked like! We had a tiny pink harness for him, that we borrowed, and which he wore until he grew out of a few months later -- everyone thought he was a girl, he was so pretty in pink! Having the harness definitely helped when taking him out of the car during the journey, at least we knew he was safe and couldn't dart away -- he was very adventurous and curious. We also didn't have a clue about feeding him during the journey. My sister-in-law whose dad is a vet said we should not feed him anything before or during to prevent vomiting in case of car sickness. But the breeder said no, he must have lunch, can't starve a puppy for 8 hours. Because we didn't know where we'd get hot water to pour on his pellets to soften them, she gave us some rice and a sachet of her cat's food that was wet, and he gobbled it up at lunch time! He eventually made a poo at one of our stops around 5pm. I was quite traumatised by the whole event. But now having been through it, I wouldn't worry at all! Good luck!! Non-slip bottom dog dishes Puppies naturally move their dish around as they are eating, especially if the dish has a flat bottom that easily pushes around the floor. We have found that dishes with a non-slip bottom can help so that your puppy is not chasing around his food dish. Make sure that it is large enough. And since dogs grow fast, that means they will likely grow to that size within a year to a year and a half. Almost all dogs we train eat between 4 -6 cups of dog food a day. So, make sure that your dish is large enough to accommodate this many cups. Water dish It is vitally important that your puppy have access to clean water for drinking. With the puppies we raise, we have found that it can be challenging to keep a small water dish full, so we prefer to use these 2-gallon water dishes. They are easy to fill and allow us to only have to fill them a couple times a week instead of several times a day. We suggest that you introduce a lead to your puppy as they start to grow in confidence and walk further from you when outside. There are two great reasons to do this early on. First it teaches your puppy how to handle the pressure of not being able to go wherever they want whenever they want. And it keeps your puppy from developing a habit of running away from you. A Flexi-lead works especially well if you want to give your puppy a little more freedom to go do his potty business but still keep control. Toys Puppies need toys. If you do not give them toys that they CAN chew and play with, they will chew on your sofa leg, or a book or a blanket or anything else they can find. So, purchase some good durable puppy chew toys. But watch your pup carefully. As they get older and stronger, they will be able to rip apart cloth toys and ingest them. Or they will chew rubber toys into small pieces and eat them. When your pup gets strong enough to destroy toys, it is time to take away the puppy toys and give them only dog toys designed for older , larger dogs or quality rawhides that they can chew that will not cause digestive problems. Stay away from rope toys. Many puppies have managed to ingest strings and ropes requiring surgery to remove them. Puppy-sized bumper If your plan is for your Labrador puppy to become a hunting or competition dog, you should have a puppy sized bumper. Learn more about teaching your puppy to fetch in this post. Barriers I recommend that you section off a small portion of your home and not let your puppy have full run of the entire house. Learn more about housebreaking your Lab puppy in this post. To section off a part, it can be helpful to have some child-gates available or an area of your home that you can close doors. This means that you need to show your puppy where the boundaries are and what is and is not allowed. To do this, you will need a few more tools. This is often when we see dogs that are running away from their owners, playing keep-a-way when retrieving and just basically being naughty. A lot of this could be avoided with the use of a check cord. Yes, a check cord can be cumbersome and often a pain to use, but it only takes one or two times of your puppy running away from you to make it worth it. Put a check cord on your puppy and allow them to drag it around with them. This alone is a great lesson for a dog. Dragging the weight is a type of pressure that they will need to learn to deal with. Occasionally, step on the rope and allow your dog to feel the pressure of being stopped and controlled. These sound like such minor things, but you would be surprised how much more well-adjusted your puppy will be just from learning these minor lessons. Chain or prong collar As your puppy gets stronger, it will get more and more difficult to control your puppy with a lead just hooked up to a nylon collar. As you notice that your puppy is getting harder to control, is pulling you around or dragging you down the street, you need to move to a chain or prong collar. Actually, it would be best if you changed to a chain or prong collar long before this becomes an issue. Remember, it is always easier to fix problems when they are small rather than waiting for them to become huge problems. Larger bumpers for retrieving dogs As your dog gets larger, you will want to move away from the puppy bumper and start using regular sized retrieving bumpers. We prefer to use plastic or rubber bumpers since they do not get as dirty or smelly as the canvas ones. They also last a lot longer and can be used for both water and land retrieves. Learn all about the different bumpers used for training hunting dogs here. Orange is a color that is difficult for retrievers to see, so that color should not be used for young dogs that are just learning about retrieving and hunting. Save the orange ones for advanced dogs working on blind retrieves. Final thoughts on What do I need to buy for a Lab puppy? There are many things that you will need for your new puppy both now and in the future. Take some time to prepare before you bring your puppy home so that you will avoid buying things on impulse that you may or may not need. If you are planning on using your puppy as a hunting or competition dog, check out 6 vital tools every gun dog trainer needs. You can email me at ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time happy retrieving. What do I need to buy for a Lab puppy? Print We recently brought home Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to train her and raise her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. That means Bubba will be with for almost a year and a half. We train one or two of these puppies each year, and over the years we have gotten pretty good at it. We also train adult dogs for hunting and competition, so we see a lot of dogs come into our program. Dogs that have each been raised differently. There are some definite training tips that can help you help your lab grow up to be the best version of himself. Training and socialization for very young Labrador puppies — week one The first week of a puppy being away from its litter is very stressful for the puppy. Most often, the first two days, the puppy will sleep a lot! The pup is adjusting to all the changes, and they need time to do that. After the first couple days you may notice a spike of energy. This is your sign that the puppy is adjusting well and is ready to be exposed to a few more things. Labrador puppy training that first week home Here are the things we work on during week one. A nylon adjustable one is usually best since puppies grow quickly. It often takes the puppy a few days to adjust to having a collar on. Intro crate We introduce our puppies to a crate on day one. Literally the day we bring them home. Most puppies will cry, bark or howl while in the crate the first few or many times. Ignore it, it does not hurt the puppy at all. Always wait until the puppy settles down and is quiet, even if that quiet only lasts for just a minute or two. Learn more about crate training. Intro to housebreaking Another day one lesson and one that will last for a few weeks or months. We introduce housebreaking day one by allowing the puppy to run around an enclosed area under close supervision. If your puppy then goes potty outside, great! The thing to remember about housebreaking, is that your puppy should never be allowed to roam the house or a room without supervision. The only way to housebreak a dog is for them to get caught in the middle of an accident. That is how they learn that what they are doing is not right. Learn more about housebreaking. Intro leash We introduce a leash to our puppies around day three of being home. But once they start getting more energy and get more inquisitive, we use a Flexi-lead attached to the nylon collar to take the puppy outside. This accomplishes two goals. The gentle tugs on the leash and pressure when the puppy strains against the leash are great training for handling pressure as they get older. Intro to pressure and correction The last thing we introduce to our new puppy during the first week home is pressure and correction. This is an often-missing element to training that can severely handicap a dog that you want to be a hunting companion or competition dog. The kind of pressure I am talking about is very mild such as saying NO to the puppy when they are chewing up your shoes or scratching through the carpet. This is the way mama dogs carry their puppies and it does not hurt them at all. This does not hurt the puppy; it is exactly what a mama dog does to teach her puppies. Learn more about introducing pressure and correction. Commands to start using that first week home The first week there are some commands we start using so that the puppy will associate the words we use with actions. Puppies play and explore with their mouths, and often they will think it is great fun to bite your hands and feet. If this does not curb the behavior, I grab her lower jaw, wrapping her gums around her teeth and squeeze. I have found this to be very effective, especially if you start this the first week you have the puppy home. The longer you wait to start, the harder it becomes to stop this behavior. It takes very little pressure to stop a 7-week-old puppy from biting. Learn more about how to stop your Lab puppy from biting you. Off command The OFF command is also started day one. The OFF command is used to stop a puppy or dog from jumping on you. It can also be used to keep a dog off a sofa or other furniture. Starting day one, I gently use my knee to push down the puppy each time they jump on me. I say OFF when I do this. Usually, a gentle push with the knee is all it takes with a very small puppy. They learn this command very quickly. If your puppy is a bit more energetic or stubborn and tries to jump on you despite your gentle pushes, then you may need to use a little more force. Even if you were to knock your puppy backwards onto her back, that is not going to hurt her seriously. But it will likely make a good impression and cause her to think twice before jumping on you again. With jumping, consistency is important. You must knock your puppy off every time she jumps on you. Learn more about how to stop your Lab from jumping on you. We use this as a que when we are taking the puppy outside to go potty. We use this while the puppy is on a leash, and we are pulling them toward us. I only use this command for very young dogs. Your goal is to get the puppy to rest in your arms and not move. But if you keep at it, you will see your dog settle for longer and longer periods of time. Introduction to retrieving Lastly, since all our puppies are retrievers, we start introducing the puppy to retrieving. The first few times are simply throwing a toy a few feet and if the puppy runs out and gets it and comes back to you, great. Then take the item and throw it again. If the puppy does not come back or does not even run out to get the item, then stop for the day. Just let the retrieving develop naturally. Next week we will start more formal retrieving training. Final thoughts on what you should do that first week with your new Labrador puppy As you can see, there is a lot of training that you can do with your seven- or eight-week-old puppy. And while you can wait for training, your puppy is ready and able to learn quickly right now. I will be posting weekly on the training we are doing with Bubba, so you can get a week-by-week snapshot of how we raise and train a puppy up to be a excellent, responsive hunting or competition dog as well as a well-mannered family dog. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. However, a healthy six-month-old labrador will grow significantly in size. Some of them can weigh up to 50 pounds. For a more balanced diet at six months, you can shift from feeding your puppy three smaller meals per day to two meals a day. To counteract this, you can drop the amount of food and gradually increase it. Setting Your Lab Puppy Up for Successful Potty Training Training an animal to control their bladders until you get outside is no different than potty-training for toddlers. In other words, crate training speeds up the potty-training process for your pet. Effective crate training depends on two things: Praising and rewarding your puppy for relieving itself outside. They come to understand this as a desirable behavior. Preventing your puppy from going to the toilet within the home. So, why is using a crate to train your puppy to go outside so effective? Initially, this should be every hour or so. As labs grow older, you can reduce the frequency as they learn to hold and release independently. Step 2: House Training a Lab Puppy Housetraining or potty-training small labs can be, well, frustrating. As a pet owner, there are simple ways to train your puppy to understand ideal behavior quickly. Instead, they simply forget that they should control it. This helps avoid any issues early on. Keep small labrador puppies off the carpet. How to Feed Your Dog for Optimal Growth Feeding your labrador puppy a balanced diet could be an entire guide all on its own. It can feel overwhelming because you do have many options when it comes to feeding your dog. For example, if you work from home, it would be easy to feed your dog homemade dog food. Similarly, you might work a and yet want to reap the health-related benefits of a raw diet. Make sure to speak to your vet first. You do have choices for what to feed your puppy and you can mix and match these. Popular feeding options for any animal include kibble, wet food, raw food, and home-cooked food. Remember, a puppy is still growing, and they need a complete profile of nutrients and minerals to support their development. There are many commercial brands of dry food or kibble to choose from and you can adjust what you buy based on the ingredients. Do your research and find a brand you trust, with as much bioavailable nutritional content as is helpful. These can harm your puppy. In order to maintain good health and prevent simple ailments, your puppy can also benefit from taking a supplement. Some families choose to mix scraps or raw food with kibble to provide moisture and decrease the amount of food versus the calories consumed. Any veterinarian will tell you that a hard and fast rule is not necessarily the type of food but the amount. Obesity is a condition that can lead to many health issues for this breed. Over-exertion, especially for a puppy, is possible. This includes activities like playing fetch or tug and release. However, breeds that worked as a hunting companion for humans love to be active. Again, this goes back to the strengths of the breed. Keeping up with your puppy could be a task-and-a-half, so in the first months of life, you should be keeping them in your backyard or playing with them at home. As they become house trained and get all their vaccinations, you can turn walks into light jogs or runs if you want. In the long-term, exercise will help keep dogs healthy and disease-free. However, early dog training can eliminate common problems with puppy temperament and help make sure that your fur friend is always as friendly and happy as possible through the years. Puppy socialization simply means making your puppy open to and familiar with new experiences. You want to provide stimulation and encounters with experiences that they will probably face as adults. The window of opportunity to make sure your puppy is always a happy and friendly pooch closes around 14 weeks. Pre-Vaccination Lab Puppy Socialization Any veterinarian will tell you that a puppy is all done with their vaccinations after 12 weeks of age. The main point is to keep your puppy away from other dogs who may not yet be vaccinated or the excrement and markings of other animals that could carry data diseases. You can head to an off-leash dog park to allow them to explore and meet other fur friends. You can also take them beyond your backyard to the countryside to enable them to swim or set up obstacle courses and play with them. Another thing that people forget about is spaying or neutering their dogs. Spaying or neutering your dog could help with behavioral issues and can also reduce the onset of certain health conditions. At the same time, spaying or neutering a puppy too early may also lead to health issues. For many people, this is a worthwhile and even enjoyable trade-off. A happy, sociable dog is always the result of consistent training. Training your dog is a significant aspect of their early years. The different stages include: Get it — Using positive reinforcement, trainers will help your dog carry out actions without commands. Teach it — This stage harnesses the progress you made in the previous stages. Your dog now knows the word and the action that goes with it. Proof it — Proofing is where many people get stuck. Your dog will learn to listen and obey commands at this stage even when they are engaged in other things. Maintain it — Consistently using the techniques you learned to keep your dog following the same desirable behavior. All breeds of dogs respond best when you train them. Every labrador retriever relies on their human taking control and showing them how to respond in any situation. You can be sure that if you follow these tips that you will be taking proper care of your new puppy and will be able to make sure that your puppy will live a long and healthy life. Share on. Quiet nights and crate training. This article will take you through everything you need to know, from what to buy, to how to help your pup settle in on his first day and night. Bringing a Puppy Home Bringing home a new 8 or 9 week old puppy is a potentially stressful experience for you and the pup. Of course, it will be better if you have been able to visit your puppy regularly before collecting him. But for most people, time and distance make this an unlikely option. Everything he sees, smells and hears, in your home will seem very strange to him at first. Fortunately, most puppies leave their mother and siblings at an age when they will readily accept their new friends and family. In a few days time, he will have settled in and accepted your home as his, and your family as his own. Holding Your Puppy The first thing to master when bringing home a new puppy is holding them the right way. This is the most comfortable position for puppies. But if you have had a long car journey, the first thing your puppy will need is to pee! Carry him in your arms to the area you want him to use for toilet purposes, and put him down there. Your first steps in potty training have begun. Maintaining Regular Bathroom Breaks Puppies vary widely in how often they need to empty their bladder. Some may last an hour or more from day one, whilst others seem to need to go every 15 minutes or so. During the course of the day, take the puppy to the toilet area at regular intervals half hourly at least to begin with. In addition, take him there every time he finishes a meal or wakes from a sleep. Set an alarm on your cell phone to remind you. Many Labrador puppies are very greedy and will eat astonishing quantities of food. New puppies are especially prone to upset tummies. The new environment and the stress of leaving home all add to the risk. You can reduce that risk by feeding little and often. If you want to change diets, do this gradually once the puppy has settled in. How often to feed Four times a day is the minimum number of feeds for an 8 week old puppy. Five or even six portions are better for a puppy with an upset tummy. Remember that the daily quantity is the same. More portions means smaller portions. If you get this right, there will be little or nothing left to put in the bowl when mealtimes come around You can find out more about using puppy food in training games by joining our Puppy Parenting course Meeting the Kids Bringing home a new puppy is an exciting time for all the family. For much of the first day, your puppy will probably be cuddled and admired. Kids should also be aware of safety precautions, such as learning to let the pup be if he seems uncomfortable. Some older dogs will play too roughly with a puppy. Others will growl and appear to reject the puppy at first. These are normal reactions but they do indicate that you are going to need to keep a close eye on things for a while. A baby gate or other barrier is a perfect way to keep a puppy from annoying the resident dog or cat while they adjust to the newcomer. As the day draws to a close, your thoughts will turn to night time, and getting your puppy to sleep! Or he howls the house down either constantly or intermittently throughout the night. There are two approaches to choosing where a puppy sleeps for those first few nights. One is to get him used to his permanent sleeping quarters right from the start. The other is to have him next to your bed until he has got over his homesickness usually three or four days. And if you keep going back, the howling may well increase. Leaving a puppy to cry alone in a strange house is also probably very distressing for the puppy and not a great way to start their new life. But we recommend having the puppy next to your bed for the first three nights. This reduces the risk of getting into an increasing spiral of night howling or having your puppy miserable for the first week. Just pop his blankets in there and put the box right next to where you sleep. Night waking Most 8 week old puppies wake in the night to pee for the first week or so. But the first few days is a time for settling your puppy in, building their confidence and avoiding bad habits such as whining or howling, getting started The best way to meet all those goals, is to keep your puppy very close to you until their homesickness has passed. Bonding with your puppy Your main objective now is to bond with your puppy. Spend lots of time with your puppy. Make him feel at home. Pay him a lot of attention when he is quiet, fuss and praise him when he pees outside. Once he has settled in, there will be plenty of time to think about crate training and learning manners, but for now just enjoy his Labrador puppy loveliness, and that scrummy new puppy smell. It will be gone all too soon, replaced by a bouncing, boisterous, and joyful friend who all too often smells of pond water. What you are doing is establishing good habits, which will last a lifetime. What About Crate Training? A quality dog crate is an excellent source of help with potty-training. But a puppy should not be left inside a crate for longer than his immature bladder can hold its contents. For some puppies, this is not very long at all. Socialization is a big part of bringing home a new puppy. This is the process we take puppies through, to make sure they are comfortable with all aspects of living in human society. For instance, dogs need to be confident around things like vehicles and machines. They should be happy to meet people of all different shapes and sizes and to go boldly wherever people want to take them. A confident dog is not just a happy dog; he is a safe dog. Socializing also means taking your puppy out and about. Naturally, many worry about exposing a not-yet-fully vaccinated puppy to the risk of infection. Yes you can! If you use modern dog training methods, you can get going right after bringing home a new puppy! In the first week puppy training is based on a series of fun games. So that your puppy will be learning without even realising. The games you play should lay foundations for future good behavior, teaching your puppy not snatch, to say please, to focus on you, to love their crate, to wear a harness or collar and to run towards you rather than away from you. A lot of people worry about whether or not to take a puppy to classes, and some are unable to do so. But there is a great deal you can do at home by yourself. You can avoid this by getting off to a great start with recall training in the very first week. The video below will help you. And never chase after a puppy. Puppy recall training starts right after bringing home a new puppy. Build an association between the act of running towards you and the sound of the recall word or whistle. If you call the puppy and he does not come, you will have begun to teach him that the recall command is optional. Check out our puppy recall training video to give you an idea of how easy it is to build this a good association if you start off in the right way. You can find out more about building a great recall from the beginning in Total Recall. But for now, in these first few days at home together, make sure no one calls the puppy to them. When they want him, they can simply pick him up. If he runs away, all they need to do is run in the opposite direction and he will come chasing after them. For the first few days after bringing home a new puppy, focus on bonding and helping him to feel safe. Consider having your puppy next to your bed for the first few nights. This will comfort him while he is feeling homesick and missing his mom and playmates. Expect to get up in the night to take your puppy out to pee for at least the first couple of weeks. Set a reminder to avoid teaching your puppy to cry for your attention. During his daytime naps, dive into the feeding, potty training, and obedience training guides mentioned in this article, and head over to the forum for support from our other readers, many of whom have been where you are now, and come safely out the other side! If you want help choosing an adorable puppy name, make sure you take a look at this article too! Lab Puppy proof the house. Things like dangerous chemicals, solvents, cleaning solutions, paint and other dangerous substances need to be secured. As well you will need to look at cords hanging and things falling on the puppy if they accidentally pull something down. Stairs need to be gated off until your puppy is older and learns how to walk down them without trying to jump off. Purchase a quality dog food. It never ceases to amaze me how some people end up feeding a low quality food to their dog, or something experimental like a vegan food, or even feed them a so called raw diet and not balance their nutrition requirements. The single biggest thing you can do for your dog is feed them a proven diet with nutrients delivered in the proper ratios. A second thing to consider is where your food is made and how you can be notified if there is a recall. At the time of writing this there is a popular food under recall for toxic levels of vitamin D. There have been numerous cases of deaths related to this and yet the company claims they independently test their ingredients. The food we recommend is such because we have years and years of experience over 13 years with it using it ourselves and recommending it to those who adopt our puppies. We have actually had so few health issues with our puppies and aging adults eating this food that we have increased our warranty to 4 years and include all major organs. Bottom line, feed a high quality proven food from the day you bring your puppy home, not necessarily one with the most protein. We will provide you with feeding suggestions once you place your reservation for a puppy and a proven puppy food to feed them. Visit the pet store for the required equipment. You are going to need a large dog crate with a divider so in the beginning your puppy will have just enough room to sleep. Crate training is the best way to protect your puppy while making them safe when unsupervised. As your dog grows you can remove the divider so it has room to lay down and not touch the walls. We stock the most popular toys and cover all the different types you will need so that you can get them when you pick up your puppy. They come with explanations of how the different types are used to both stimulate, calm and play with your puppy, how to cycle them, teething, and more. A stainless steel water and food bowl is also another good choice. I would wait on getting a collar so that you can fit them properly. We have inexpensive training leashes that adjust to any size for you to purchase when you are here. Have a family meeting to establish expectations. Every human in the home will need to follow the same rules consistently so that your puppy understands what is expected of them. Schedule an appointment with a good Veterinarian. Not all Veterinarians are of equal experience. We have heard some pretty crazy stories, so we suggest you get some referrals of some long term relationships of people you trust for a Vet. You should take your puppy to the vet a couple of days after you get home so it has time to get use to its new surroundings before being taken somewhere. Prepare fore the Drive Home 1. Your puppy can last about 2 or 3 hours without a potty break. We normally feed your puppy early in the morning on the day of pick up so that it has time to go potty before the drive home. Our recommendation is to give your puppy some water every 3 hours and then let them have a pee. This could also go along with letting them play or explore outside a bit. When you stop, find an unused grassy space to potty on. Arriving at home with your puppy 1. First quickly bring them to the spot you want them to potty. This is the beginning of your dog being house trained. They will likely have to go right after you get out of the car. So when you stop, give them a drink in the area you want them to relieve themselves in. Wait until they go and then you can take them into the home. Treat your puppy like a puppy. It is breakable and will be a puppy for about a year. Things like playing with larger dogs and such should be carefully supervised. Constant supervision. Your new puppy needs to be constantly supervised until they can be trusted and you know that they understand the rules. Constant supervision means either you or someone watching them, they are in their crate the crate is the supervisor , or that they are in a section of the home baby-gated off or also an outside run with a kennel and a cement floor so they cannot dig under the fence yes they will dig. After a potty bring your puppy to the room with their crate. Introducing them to their crate perhaps with a few pieces of kibble in it will show them where their safe space is. This is also where they need to be comfortable enough to self-calm and fall asleep. If you have another dog, first introduce them outside on neutral territory. Bringing a new puppy and simply coming straight into the home could have one of three effects. The first being that both dogs might be ok with it. Second is that the older dog has an issue with a new strange animal in its territory. This would result in your older dog being defensive, maybe even protective or possibly anxious and scared and once this has happened it is out there. Undoing this type of trauma could take days or weeks. Relax and let them get to know each other and all will be good. After some get familiar time begin training your puppy without distractions using Positive Reinforcement training methods. We suggest that everyone participates in some training classes either in a group format or private. The important thing to understand is that you are training you to train your puppy. Your puppy will also lose any training it has done if it is not reinforced by everyone in the home. Other resources are 80 Puppy Training tips that you can learn as well as an excellent site with video called Puppy Trained Right. We have a discount code available for those who are taking home one of our puppies. This will allow them time to eliminate most of their food and urine and will give a better chance of sleeping the night without having to go potty. Prepare their crate in a quiet, dark spot. Make it a sleepy place, place a blanket over the top and down 3 sides to block draft and to make it den-like. Some mild exercise or training just before bed. Just like a human, you want them to be tired before bed. So for example if you let them sleep from 9 to 11 pm they may not need to go down at 11 to sleep. The last while before bed try to stimulate them mentally and physically so that they are ready to turn in. This can be training sessions, a walk, a play session or even fetch in the house. One final potty around 11 pm. After you prepare them for sleep take them out one more time and give them ample time to relieve themselves. Bring them back in, let them settle in the crate, put an item of clothing in there that smells like you for them to snuggle on. The quicker they learn the new pack and learn to settle in the crate the better and that happens by not reminding them of their old litter. If they smell their old litter they will whine for them to find them. Settling in their crate. Once your puppy goes down you will want to be teaching your puppy that the time in their crate is for sleep, they are safe in there, and that if they bark or whine they cannot summon you to save them. So, what if they really have to go? This is something you will have to figure out. It may be possible that they must go outside to relieve themselves, but, they may also just want you to hold or feed them. If they go, just put them back in their crate to settle and go back to sleep. You will know within reason that next time they are just lonely. This normally stops after about 2 or 3 days. Whoosh them out to their pee spot. Pick them up and carry them quickly to their pee spot. When they go reward them with praise and say the potty word that you use. Feed, and then woosh them out again to their pee spot. Puppies often need to poop right after they eat, or sometimes while they are eating. Some exercise, training and mental stimulation. After waking up and eating they will be ready for a walk and some training. Setting them up for their first full day in the home. Plan their day out so that there is a balance of play, training, napping, eating, and potty. In the beginning your puppy will need about 20 hours or so of sleep a day so be sure it is getting enough. If your puppy gets nippy they may be trying to tell you they are tired and want to be left alone in their crate. Every opportunity that your puppy presents in the form of nipping is a training opportunity to teach bite inhibition. Coming home to your puppy after work. Learning how to greet them. If you work full time it is important to understand that a young puppy cannot hold their bladders for more than 3 or 4 hours. If you work full time you will need someone to watch them or at least visit them once or twice during the shift to let them out, drink and play. When you arrive home this is the time to teach them manners. Most dogs will be excited and will jump on you to greet you. Be sure you teach them how you want them to greet people. We will teach a dog to sit in front of us before it gets any attention. No attention means no talking, no eye contact and no touching. Will they need to relieve themselves? If they have been in a crate you will likely need to let them go potty, a walk or some fetching would also be good at this time because they likely have some energy to expend. Training pre or post feeding? There are also some Labs who are not food motivated. So if your Lab is not responding well to training after they are fed, you may want to train them before eating so the hunger is on your side. Socialization with people other than your family, and animals other than those in the home. While socializing you want to expose them to many people while not overwhelming them. To start we recommend 1 new person each morning and one new place each night. After you can see that your puppy is not overwhelmed you may decide to increase the frequency of exposure to new places, animals and things. Prepare for night time routine. Get your new furball ready for bed time as outlined above. Setting your puppy up for success. Avoiding dog parks and strange dogs. Until your puppy is fully vaccinated around 14 weeks old they are vulnerable to other diseases by unknown dogs. By all means, if you know someone who has a dog and you can verify that their dog is up to date on all shots such as Parvo, Rabies, Leptospirosis, Kennel Cough, Distemper, Hepatitis, Corona and Para Influenza, 2. Get into a reputable training class or private training with a reputable trainer. Training classes are mainly to train you. Ask around in your area for a recommendation of a good trainer at a reasonable price. Gentle, regular exposure to everyone and everything. For example, while you are exposing them to people you will need to expose them to female babies, toddlers, pre teens, teenagers, young adult women, middle aged women and older women. You will need to include women with glasses, hats, soft voices, loud voices, etc…. Adjust their food as they grow and as their activity level increases or decreases. If for example your dog is much more active or much less active then the recommended feeding amount will not be correct. Instead use your eyes. You might have to adjust the food amounts up or down as your Labrador gets more or less activity. Positive Reinforcement training by everyone in the pack. When you get into your car and you to go somewhere, you tell your gps where you want to go. Dogs are the same way. Instead teach your dog what you want it to do. Instead of scolding, simply withdraw your attention. This is enough punishment. Then, get back to showing your dog what you want it to do. If your puppy is not eating or has a loose bowel movement. Not eating much is pretty common when a puppy goes to its new home, however if it stops drinking then that would be cause for an immediate vet visit. In a new home your puppy might not be comfortable for a couple of days and eating might be just grazing. This is ok as long as it is drinking and seems to be playful. Loose bowel movements in the beginning could be due to nerves or your puppy could also have a parasite. At this young age puppies put everything, and I mean everything into their mouths. It is quite common for puppies to get loose stool from a parasite. This can be addressed easily if you take a stool sample into your Vet for analysis. What is a puppy emergency that requires a visit to the vet? Our rules for an emergency trip to the vet are: Uncontrollable bleeding, puppy not breathing properly, broken bone, puppy is not drinking and appears lethargic. If any of these present themselves you may want to consider getting help right away. Other things can normally wait until the next morning to be addressed because they are not critical. Depending on where you live however you may have a vet that is open 24 hours and even on the weekends. So this is a start for you to think about when you take a Labrador Puppy home. Information contained on this page is provided by an independent third-party content provider. Frankly and this Site make no warranties or representations in connection therewith. If you are affiliated with this page and would like it removed please contact pressreleases franklymedia. Be among the first to get breaking news, weather, and general news updates from News 9 delivered right to your inbox! Morning Headlines.

Tweet Pin74 Get ready for another roundup of funny talking dog videos, this time featuring boxers! According to the American Kennel Club, boxers are part of the working group of dogs. They grow to an average height of .Boxers are affectionate, friendly, intelligent , active and playful. Check out a few of our favorite hilarious clips of talking boxers! Do you sometimes wish your dog could talk to you? They sometimes seem to have a language all their own. In this video, Otis, a cute and adorable boxer, is trying to tell his mom something, using sounds and body language. However, he gets frustrated when his mom has no clue what he is trying to say. In this video, we meet Amber, a sweet boxer. The problem? Mom seems to be busy doing something else. Amber remains patient at first but soon becomes impatient with mom. Amber then starts growling, whimpering and making sounds like she is trying to tell mom she wants to go to bed and she wants to go now. Introducing Oscar, the Boxer — The merry video was posted on October 31, by YouTube user Oscar Boxer and the video has gotten 17,, views to date. Oscar Shnookums was a boxer who loved hearing sirens. Every time he heard a siren, he would mimic the sound of the siren. Oscar and his viral videos were so popular, he even had his own Facebook page. Sadly, Oscar passed away on October 13, , a couple of days after he turned 11 years old. Leeloo is a cute boxer who loves to eat slow-roasted pork. In the video, she can see and smell the leftover pork that people at the table have on their plates and she desperately wants some. We hope you enjoyed these funny talking dog videos featuring boxers as much as we did! If you have a favorite clip, share it with us in the comments! In the video posted by d. One user commented, "Have trouble waking up? Boxers are one of the most recognizable breeds. They have an above average IQ, are extremely athletic, and while they love exercise and physical activity, they're no strangers to the sofa," the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals says. A happy Boxer dog. Stock image. A man and his dog have become TikTok stars after his Boxer dog comes up with an unusual way of waking up his owner. Getty Images The 14th most popular dog breed in the U. S in , boxers are often described as "goofy" or "clownish" and require a lot of energy and mental stimulation, as seen by the impatient pup in this video. The ASPCA advises that: "A good outlet for the breed's energy is to play fetch, go on long walks, and try some agility training. Giving a Boxer the exercise and energy outlets they need can go a long way toward having a well-behaved pooch. Conversely, a Boxer with high energy but no outlet can go from clownish to destructive. This, of course, can be avoided with plenty of stimulation and activity—which are also great ways to form a bond with these playful pups. You make it seem like puppy ownership is as simple and trouble-free as the world presented in cute puppy pictures. We can all agree that, at birth, all puppies are too adorable for words. We can also agree that raising puppies is a weighty responsibility, and never one to be undertaken lightly. Boxer puppies are not special in this regard. These caveats out of the way, it seems like no time at all between the stages of tiny, mewling infant and the first time you get the guilty look from Boxer puppies. Out of the whelping box, straight into mischief Boxer puppies start up with impish behavior from the moment they take their first tentative steps out of the whelping box. Training and socialization are key elements to a happy life with Boxer puppies. These little guys and gals, after all, become huge and physically imposing dogs. Keep an eye on this little fellow! Boxer puppies were made for the outdoors. Being outside, running about, playing with toys, and pawing at stuff — this is a top-flight day of action and adventure for Boxer puppies. When they want a snack before dinner, though, Boxer puppies will try and get sneaky. That we have such things as cute puppy pictures, of course, owes as much to human waggery as to anything Boxer puppies get into of their own accord. Boxer puppies are well known for toting things around in their mouths. No room in the house is safe from the shenanigans of Boxer puppies. Did you remember to close the bathroom door? Have fun re-rolling the toilet paper! Boxer puppies are eager, excitable, and enthusiastic friends to dog owners who are ready and willing to put in the work that training requires. Is it possible to sit Boxer puppies next to flowers and not have them inspire confidence, ease, and a sense of pervading calm? Sure, this brindle Boxer puppy seems contented, seated next to a little garden pinwheel, but be careful not to let her sit idle for too long. Boxer puppies need stimulation and interaction, so make sure she has toys to play with and things to occupy her mind! Boxer puppies love to play. Growing into solid, well-built dogs, they never really lose the joy and excitement that comes along with meeting new friends. Are your Boxer puppies naughty or nice? Every dog is different; each has her own personality and tendencies. Much depends on us, as dog owners, to train and socialize them in order to corral their wilder instincts. Do you have any experience with Boxer puppies? Share your experiences with Boxers at every stage of life in the comments!

You can use the information on dog.Show more How much grooming does a German Shepherd need? German Shepherds have thick coats so they shed a lot. You'll typically need to brush your short or long-haired German Shepherd a few times a week. German Shepherds may also need professional grooming. To hel.What size crate do you need for a German Shepherd? When inside their crate, your dog should have plenty of space to: sit and stand up at their full height turn around without touching the sides lie down fully stretched out.To find out more about potential health i.Are German Shepherds easy to train? You can teach any breed of dog new tricks! Find out what your dog loves so you can use this to reward them after a success. Just like you, every dog is an individual with their own personality and prior experiences. As dogs grow from puppies, they learn all about the world. They develop their own likes and dislikes and learn to respond to.Show more Are German Shepherds good with children? Every dog has their own unique personality that has been shaped by their own experiences of the world. However, there are som.Show more. German Shepherd Dogs Dogs for Adoption - Urgent case German Shepherd Puppies and Dogs looking for homes "The one absolutely unselfish friend that man can have in this selfish world, the one that never deserts him, the one that never proves ungrateful or treacherous, is his dog. The two breeds most at risk are GSD's and Staffies. Their crime - to be surplus to requirement. Unwanted and unloved. They have the same right to a nice home as younger dogs. She is good with children but unknown with dogs due to lack of socialisation and a no to cats. She is housetrained and travels well in the car. Our assessor found her to be a lovely and friendly dog who is sadly not being walked and therefore pulls on the lead. She is in desperate need of a new home where she will be stimulated and exercised but in return you will have a loving and affectionate dog! Zoey - Staffs This lovely girl is 4 year old Zoey who is in need of a new home. Sadly, Zoey's owner has been unable to exercise her so she is a lively girl, she will bark when people come to the home but our assessor found her to be very friendly and Zoey certainly enjoyed a belly rub or two. She is so eager to please, our assessor took her out and found she would not stray far and came back immediately, excellent obedience. She loves to play with her ball, has no food aggression, sleeps in her crate and travels well. Has previously lived with a male dog but did dominate him and currently lives with a cat but if allowed will chase it; due to her excitable nature it would be best not to rehome with younger children. She is no longer up to date with her vaccinations and has not been spayed or micro-chipped. Zoey is a very much loved dog but sadly not given the time an energetic dog like her needs, she deserves a new loving home where she will enjoy the exercise and stimulation she so desperately needs. Benson - Suffolk Benson is a 1yr old neutered male. He was rehomed by GSDR a few months ago but has returned as there have been changes within the family circumstances, and they can no longer cope with him. Benson has become over protective of his current owner and hence has issues with other dogs when out walking. He needs a firm, experienced owner who will teach him boundaries and acceptable behaviour. This young dog will blossom into a loyal friend with the right guidance. Shiloh - west mids This poor little sad girl is 3 year old Shiloh who is up to date with her vaccinations, is micro-chipped and spayed. She is a very nervous young dog and takes time to settle when visitors arrive but is exceedingly affectionate to her people. She is in desperate need of a home where the new owner will preferably not have any other pets or young children and will be able to devote the time and dedication to this very loving dog. Blue 3 year old entire handsome white German Shepherd who is currently in foster care due to previous owners lack of confidence to control and train. Unfortunately Blue suffers from fear aggression and tries to nip and frighten anyone he first meets but the foster carer can already see improvement day to day and Blue is beginning to trust humans again and be more relaxed and settled within their home. With patience and time preferably the only pet and no children Blue should make a fabulous pet for an experienced GSD home. Micro-chipped, vaccinated and medically fit. Saber Very fit and lively 10 year old, entire. Loves to play and cuddles. Unfortunately due to family constraints Saber is living in a very confined space and left for long periods of time. He has lived with a child but due to his size it would be best to place him with older ones, can live with a steady dog but a definite no to cats!! He was originally found on the streets as a stray and his previous owner spent a lot of time in training him and received a lot of certificates, he even went to work with his owner in the office. We were informed he needed careful introduction to new people he meets but he is now in kennels and has met so many people and staff and has not been an issue; in fact they all adore him. Anyone with experience, looking for a large dog, look no further, Frank is your dog!! Although he currently lives with young children it is advised due to his excitable behaviour and size he is rehomed with much older children, he has not been socialised with other dogs but our assessor said that with time, effort and the right owner he will be fine with them but a definite no to cats. He has been neutered and micro-chipped but his vaccinations are now out of date. Although he never went to puppy class he knows basic commands but gets distracted, with an experienced owner he will make a fantastic dog who is in desperate need of stimulation and exercise. Sadly, as in many of these cases, the breeder was only interested in the money and not the long term welfare of the dog; Rocky has become too much for his current family and are unable to give him the time and stimulation a fabulous dog like him requires. Can you? Tala - Notts This lovely lad is 2 year old Tala who is up to date with his vaccinations and entire. He currently lives with children but would be best placed with much older, more experienced ones, loves to play with other dogs but a definite no to cats. Tala will need firm handling and will need to know who is the leader certainly not him! He is housetrained, travels well and will make a fabulous dog in the right home where he will be stimulated and allowed the chance to have a good run out in the fields. Camy - Lou Camy Lou is a beautiful 5yr old spayed bitch. She is a calm and friendly dog in the house. She loves her walks, being outside and also likes swimming so can be a little excitable when she thinks she is about to go out. Camy Lou has had a rough start to life. Her current owners rescued her a year ago. She was in quite a sorry state but with time and patience they have got her to where she is today. She is insured and vaccinated. Camy Lou is great with people but she suffers from toy aggression. Camy Lou responds to basic commands and has a good recall unless she is distracted by a stick or toy. Her current owners love her dearly but are sadly unable to keep her as she attacked one of their other dogs, while in the home, because of a stick. This gorgeous girl has a lot of love to give and would benefit from an experienced GSD owner with no other pets and no children. Layla - Norfolk Layla is a lovely 2yr old bitch in desperate need of some love and attention. She was being kept in a run down, outside kennel with straw as her only comfort. She is quite underweight and has little muscle tone on her back end. This will improve once she is being fed and exercised more regularly. Her owner is seriously ill and has moved away to be with his family leaving Layla to be looked after by a man, who was trying to help the owner out, but who has struggled due to his own workload and other commitments. This young girl needs time, patience and most of all love to steer her back onto the road to good health. She would ideally suit an experienced owner without young children. Willow - Nuneaton Let me introduce you to the utterly gorgeous, big boy Willow. He is 4 years old 5 in Jul , entire and not vaccinated. Due to his size and strength it would be best to rehome him to a family with much older teenagers or no children at all, definitely no cats and needs to be carefully introduced to other dogs. Our assessor did find him to be a little lively but soon calmed down and Willow enjoyed a fuss and a cuddle. Willow is very large dog and has not be shown any ground rules and therefore his new owners need to work with him but in return they will have a fabulous dog! Buddy - West Mids This lovely dog is 8 years young Buddy who is entire and vaccinations are overdue. He currently lives with a family, a cat, loves to play with other dogs in the park and previously lived with dogs in a former home. The family are no longer able to keep Buddy due to his food aggression and behaviour towards various members of the family. However, our assessor found him to be a lovely, friendly dog who was energetic and this was no doubt due to not getting enough exercise or stimulation. In the right home he would make a fabulous addition and would suit an active family preferably with older children due to his excitable nature. Petra Petra is 5 and unspayed. She has never lived with children but was fine with young children she met out. Petra does not like little dogs or cats, and she will stand up for herself with larger dominating dogs. She has been living with a male GSD and her two 5 month daughters. Friendly with people who are friendly to her. Her recall is good as long as she is not distracted. Petra does have a joint problem on her right rear leg and will struggle if walked more than about 4 miles in a day. Poor Petra has had a horrible start in life. The owner used to beat his wife and no doubt at some stag Petra too. She is very nervous of lighters and matches! She will need confident and understanding owners. Current owner rehoming as mobility issues walking all of the dogs! Louie - Coventry This lovely friendly lad is 8 years young Louie. He is neutered, vaccinated and house trained. He is sadly overweight due to lack of exercise but when our assessor took him out she found he eventually walked well on the lead after initially pulling and responded well to commands but could not test his recall. A definite no to cats and dogs he will dominate them so would be best placed as an only dog and to further socialise with other dogs. Louie is a water baby, loves to swim but doesn't like to go out of his depth, travels well in the car but hates fireworks! A friendly dog who really enjoys the attention he deserves and needs a home soon! Bruno - Cambs Bruno is a longhaired 4yr old entire male. He currently lives in a barn but is chained up as he keeps escaping and has killed the neighbours prize chickens. The neighbours have threatened legal action if Bruno is not re-homed soon. While chained Bruno shows aggression and will nip, but when off the chain he is a completely different character and is very friendly. He responded to simple commands and took treats from our assessor. Bruno is good with children, other dogs and cats. We are unsure if he is house trained but he does not mess in his barn. He is not currently walked and so will need some lead training. He shows no aggression when allowed to be free and will make a great addition to the right home. This young man just needs a chance to be a pet rather than a yard dog. Bailey - Suffolk Bailey is a friendly 5yr old neutered male. He has shown some aggression issues in his current home but he is being left to his own devices for long periods and is under stimulated. Our volunteer found Bailey to be very social and saw no signs of aggression. He needs an experienced GSD owner that can spend the time needed to channel Baileys attentions in a positive direction. Can you offer Bailey the home he so urgently needs? Jake - Suffolk Jake is a 3yr old neutered male. He is currently being left alone for long periods, not walked or groomed. Despite his lack of attention Jake is a friendly boy. He needs an experienced owner who can go back to basics and teach him some manners and give him some guidance on acceptable behaviour. Jakes long coat needs a good groom. This young dog is desperate for a home where he will be loved and receive the attention and exercise that every dog deserves. Theo This beautiful boy is 4 year old Theo who will need an experienced owner to provide him with time for exercise and socialisation. He currently lives with another dog and children but would now be best placed with much older teenagers. Although he lives with another dog and gets on well with her, he does not like other dogs when out. He is fully vaccinated and neutered. He requires a home with GSD experience who will guide and stimulate him, in return you will have a fabulous loving dog. He is up to date with vaccinations, neutered and micro-chipped. He is good with children but will need to be homed as the only pet as he likes to enjoy all the fuss and tummy tickles for himself; and following an attack by another dog when he was only 15 weeks old he can no longer tolerate other dogs or any other furry creatures. He is house-trained and has good basic commands. He has unfortunately been diagnosed with hip dysplasia but thanks to his good muscle tone the vet has advised he does not require an operation; the current pet insurance is transferrable. Our assessor found him to be a friendly and pleasant dog, walked well on the lead; his current owner sadly has to give him up as she is unable to control him around other dogs and the other pets in the home. He will suit an experienced owner who will understand his behaviour and provide him with the guidance and manners he requires. Lulu - Nuneaton This beautiful little girl is 3 year old Lulu who is fully vaccinated and micro-chipped and spayed and currently in foster. She has previously lived with children and is ok with most dogs but cannot tolerate small ones and definitely no cats. She is fully house trained but will require further training as she will pull on the lead and needs to learn a few manners. She suffers with dust and food allergies and is currently on medication and a special diet for this; she is currently insured and this is transferrable. She will require a firm handler who can provide her with the guidance and socialization she requires as well as the care needed with her allergy. A lovely girl who needs a chance to enjoy another loving home. He went to attack Ash on a number of occasions, Ash soon showed him who the boss was good lad. This shows he can be ok with the correct guidance. He is a big strong boy so pulls on lead. We would recommend that no small children as he is a very big lad. You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart. You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion. We also accept Paypal payments - just click on the Paypal button below. Please help support the rescue Please help us by making a donation so that we can help re home more unwanted German Shepherd Dogs. Thank you.

They are outgoing, active and affectionate companions who have a lot of energy and love making their owner happy. They have strong retrieving instincts as they were bred to be gun dogs, so they love both soft toys and diving into bodies of water. It is highly unusual for the puppy's owner to care for them during this time and is best left to a responsible, reputable breeder. Your puppy's body will double in weight as their muscles, organs and bones develop. Nutrition During the neonatal stage, your Labrador puppy will get most of their nutrition from their mother's milk. At around 4 weeks you may wish to introduce a mush of minced protein such as beef, but always consult your vet first before changing your puppy's diet at this stage. Health During this time it is important to monitor your Lab for any infections, diseases or birth defects. Puppies are unable to urinate or defecate by themselves initially, so their mother helps them but may additionally require your assistance. Keep your vet's contact details close by and educate yourself thoroughly on this stage of puppy development. By the end of this period, your puppy will be mobile and will explore the world mouth first — be sure to keep choking hazards and toxic foods out of their reach. Behaviour During most of this time your Labrador puppy will be asleep or inactive, but they will soon be playing with their brothers and sisters. After weeks they will go through as much sensory development as a human baby does in a few months. It is important to avoid disturbing the puppies' mother as she will be likely be protective, but some interaction with the young pups is normal so they become used to human touch. This is a formative time for your puppy and will be when they learn to walk, play, bite, hold their bladder, and interact with others. You will soon notice their attentiveness to you and their intense love of play — many Labs keep this caring and fun attitude for their whole lives if you foster it. Nutrition During the weaning stage, you should slowly introduce into their diet a nutritionally complete dog food which is appropriate to your Labrador's large size and young age. Labs are notoriously greedy and will quickly gobble down food and snatch treats from hands. You should familiarise yourself with lists of toxic foods and plants to avoid and hide as your puppy will soon find ways to get into forbidden snacks found only in bins. Labradors puppies instinctively like to 'dig' inside their water bowls so much of their water will end up on the ground. Make sure to get your puppy used to touching inside their small ears as they are prone to ear infections and will need regular checkups. Behaviour Due to the changes in their environment, your Labrador puppy will likely be under a significant amount of stress. It's important that you provide lots of attention and positive reinforcement for good behaviour at this time to establish boundaries early. Labradors are eager to love anyone but can be overbearing, so you should introduce them to a number of different people and environments so that they are not overwhelmed with excitement later in life. PUPPY By the time your Labrador Retriever reaches puppyhood their personality will be well developed and you will have established a loving, social friend who wants to maximise time with you and others. Your Labrador puppy will do well socially and behaviourally from puppy training classes as long as treats are involved. Nutrition Your Labrador puppy's diet should be based around a high quality, nutritionally complete puppy food. You may also wish to introduce them to fresh, lean raw meat — however, don't feed your puppy any meat you would not feed to a fellow human being. Bloat is potentially fatal but can be combatted by feeding your dog two smaller meals per day, a habit you should start while they are a puppy. A rough guide is that they should exercise for minutes per day and less after 5 years when many lose their appetite for long marathons of activity. Your pup will need brushing every few days, with more frequent grooming during seasonal changes to combat shedding. Bathing should be infrequent as this can damage the waterproofing of their coats, however, you should wash them after swimming or rolling in muck. After around 8 weeks your puppy will be due for some vaccinations, so they will need a checkup at the vet and to arrange for boosters after that. Studies showed that dogs supplemented with a diet of bovine colostrum had a quicker and stronger immune system response to CDV vaccine as compared to dogs fed a control diet. Colostrum supplemented dogs maintained a higher antibody level even after 40 weeks A diet supplemented with Colostrum helps bridge the immunity gap in puppies that occurs between 3 weeks and 5 months of age. Behaviour Do not be complacent with training your Labrador puppy — almost all are very gentle and well behaved, but this does not mean that training is unnecessary. Labs are very loving and patient with all that they meet, but they often do not know their own size. To combat this, they should be trained in how to act around small dogs and children to avoid intimidation or accidental injury. They will also benefit from obedience training to drop things from their mouths, avoid rushing across busy streets and make sure they come when called. Recommended Articles. All dogs are unique and grow at their own rate. Pro Tip: Check out our complete guide to puppy care to ensure your Lab gets off to a great start. As a medium to large breed, Labrador Retrievers need at least one year to reach their full size. A general rule of thumb suggests your Lab should be at or close to its full size by their first birthday. However, bigger-boned Lab puppies can keep growing and filling out their chest up to 18 months old. How big should a 6-month-old Labrador Retriever be? The average Lab weight at six months old is about 40 to 55 pounds for males or 30 to 35 pounds for females. Please keep in mind that these numbers are averages, and every puppy will grow at a slightly different rate. How much bigger will my Labrador Retriever get? There are three ways to predict the size of a Labrador Retriever at maturity: Age. Labrador Retrievers typically reach their full height and weight around their first birthday. Larger Labs may need up to 18 months to fill out their chest, but any weight gain after 12 months should be minimal overall. If your Lab is less than a year old, they are likely still growing and putting on muscle to reach their adult size. Paw Size. If their paws look oversized next to their legs and body, then they are probably still growing, as this is a classic puppy feature. Lastly, if you purchased your Lab through a breeder, you can contact them for a more exact height and weight estimate. What is the size of a full-grown Labrador Retriever? A full-grown Labrador Retriever weighs between 65 and 80 pounds and stands about .The average weight of a full-grown female Labrador Retriever should be about 55 to 70 pounds, standing at .Make sure to consult with your veterinarian to ensure that your Lab is maintaining a healthy weight for its body size. The Labrador Retriever growth rate should be indicative of its athletic body and muscular build. Did you know. ? Their webbed paws made them strong swimmers, along with their otter tail, which acts like a powerful rudder when retrieving ducks. English nobles spotted the dogs and brought them home across the Atlantic, where breeders continued to refine the breed into its own variation. Between their friendly demeanor, adaptability, and outgoing disposition, they make ideal family members. As cherished members of our families, Labs deserve the best care. Unfortunately, like many other purebred dogs, Labrador Retrievers are more susceptible to various health issues. Some of the most common examples include:. She graduated from the University of Glasgow in with a degree in veterinary medicine and surgery. She has worked at the same animal clinic in her hometown for over 20 years. There are 10 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been viewed , times. Labrador retrievers are an adorable and popular dog breed that can make a great addition to your household. Aside from a physical examination, you can do a professional DNA test on the dog to check its genetic makeup. All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Does the fur appear short, and have a thick texture? The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Did you know? There are silver labs, but silver is not an acceptable color in the breed standard as this color is believed to have come from a cross with the Weimaraner. However, dogs with this coat color may still be registered with certain kennel clubs. If the dog is a yellow or black lab, check that the puppy has brown eyes. In the case of chocolate labs, check for brown or hazel eyes. Check to see how long its legs are; while a Labrador should have longer legs than a Dachshund, its legs should be shorter than a Husky. Purchase a dog genetics test, which will give you a specialized testing kit. Some DNA tests will look for genetic markers, while cheaper tests focus more on the different breeds. Tip: Try to keep the puppy from sharing food or playing rough with the other dogs, as this might hurt the integrity of the saliva sample. Package the saliva sample according to the instructions given by the company. Seal the envelope or package carefully, so the sample is completely secure while it travels to the lab. Generally, you can find the test results listed by breed, followed by a percentage; however, this might differ, depending on the company. If this is possible, use a cotton swab to collect saliva samples from 1 or both parents. Store these samples carefully, so you can send them to a professional company. Seal the envelope or package carefully to secure the sample, and keep it safe in transit. Go to source Seeing a CH or confirmation champion title on the pedigree certificate means that the dog is close to the ideals in the breed standard and is related to a dog that was able to win over other dogs at a show with at least 15 conformation points. Go to source A dog with this lineage can make a great candidate for showing. If your dog has documented parentage with the American Kennel Club, you can search their database and purchase a certificate that affirms this. You can also register your dog through the American Kennel Club once you have proof of their pedigree. Go to source Fees for pedigrees very depending on the type. When you bring a new puppy home, it's important to keep feeding it the same food that it has been eating at its previous home. The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Go to source Talk to the person or organization that you are adopting your puppy from to see what food they are feeding it. They should willingly provide that info and they may even send you home with some if you can't find any to buy. If you can't find the right food in your local pet supply store, consider ordering it online. However, you would need to order it ahead of time so that you have it on hand when the puppy comes home. If you want to feed your puppy a different food from what it has been eating, you will need to switch its food over the course of several days. Feed that mix for several days. Finally, you can give the puppy all new food. If you are content to give your puppy the food it was originally eating, it's fine to do that. Every puppy will have different nutritional needs. Because of this, it's a good idea to discuss proper nutrition with your vet. They can suggest great foods to give your puppy and how much it should be eating. Go to source The right portion size depends on the size of your puppy and its metabolism. Ask your vet to teach you how to body score your puppy. This will allow you to do a quick visual check to see whether your puppy is losing or gaining weight. Tip: If your vet suggests a specific food but doesn't tell you how much to give your puppy, follow the instructions on the packaging. Doing 3 or 4 feedings per day allows your puppy to get enough nutrients without overwhelming its digestive system with a huge amount of food at once. This is especially important when your puppy is under 6 months old, as they have delicate systems. Go to source Don't just leave the food out all day. Take the food away after the puppy eats for about 10 or 15 minutes. Lab puppies should always have access to fresh water so that they can stay adequately hydrated. Put out a dish of water and dump it out, clean the dish, and refill it daily. Some puppies are really messy with their water dishes. To prevent a mess, try putting the water dish on a tray, so that spilled water won't go right onto the floor. Tweet on Twitter Getting a healthy, pedigree Labrador puppy requires planning. In this article we are going to share with you 8 steps that you can follow to ensure that you are buying a healthy Labrador puppy. There are potential problems that many new puppy buyers are not aware of. The litter of puppies next door, or in your local newspaper, might not be the right one for you. So you need to be cautious as you set out on this exciting journey! Plan in advance Good breeders do not usually struggle to get puppy buyers. On the contrary, they often have waiting lists. So, if a litter of eight week old puppies is still unsold, be wary. It pays to plan in advance. Six to twelve months ahead of when you want your puppy is not too soon. The structured approach below is designed to help those with no contacts in the dog breeding world, find the right puppy. Step 1. Those bred for the show ring or as pets, and those bred for work as gundogs. You can read about these two types of Labrador, and their characteristics in this article: which Labrador is right for you? In the UK we call these two strains working type or field type and show type. They look and are, very different dogs. In the USA, working bred Labradors are often referred to as field type or American and show bred gun dogs as bench type or English. The split is the same in both countries, whatever they are called. And you need to know which is which and which you prefer. Step 2. This article looks at all the different places and ways in which you can buy puppies and explains the pros and cons of each. Finding a reputable breeder if you have no contacts in the doggy world, is not as easy as walking into a pet shop, but it is worth every bit of the effort that goes into it. One way to start your search, is by looking at your local Labrador breed club. This will lead you to some experienced breeders. You will then need to do some further checks to find out whether or not the breeders meets the standards you are looking for. Many people that are involved in the committee of their breed club are themselves breeders. If they no longer breed, they will be able to put you in touch with someone that does. One will be labelled FT secretary. The FT stands for Field Trial and suggests that this person is involved with working type labradors. If someone is showing their dogs, the dogs themselves are more likely to be show type rather than true working type. Step 3. Contact some Labrador breeders Make a list of contacts to approach, you can then phone them or email them. Let them know that you found them on the Kennel Club website, and are looking for a pedigree Labrador puppy. Tell them which type work or show you are interested in. Have a separate list ready, to enter details of any litters. So the second question is often the best way of getting a puppy from one of her dogs. If you have a colour preference, let the breeder know. He or she will ask you plenty of questions later if you want one of their puppies. Step 4. For several reasons. They may not have any puppies at the moment, or they may not meet the criteria you have set for the breeder of your puppy. They will however, be able to give you more contacts to add to your list. What you are aiming to do, is to make a list of half a dozen or so litters of puppies that you can then check out and narrow down. One of the best ways to find a litter of puppies, either before or after they are born, is to find a nice stud dog, and track down all the female dogs he has been mated to over the last month or two. A reputable breeder will be happy to email you photos and may even let you visit her stud dog, so that you can decide if you like him. This trail will also lead you to some smaller, less experienced breeders so you will need to do your homework carefully to make sure that the mother of your puppies has the right credentials. Checking those out is our next step Step 5. Checking credentials It is up to you to check the credentials of the litter. This is something that people are often unaware of. A pedigree does not guarantee very much at all. The Kennel Club pedigree is simply a statement of ancestry and contrary to popular belief, does not imply that the puppy it belongs to or his parents have met any standards. The three credentials you need to personally check and verify are Temperament Abililty Temperament The most crucial of all credentials has to be temperament. An adult Labrador may weight in excess of 70lbs. These are large powerful dogs that everyone expects to be friendly. You cannot take any chances with poor temperament. He will inherit tendencies to friendliness or unfriendliness, nervousness or confidence etc, from both of his parents. Never buy a puppy without meeting his mother. And if you can meet the stud dog, so much the better. If you cannot meet the stud dog, make sure that someone who has met him, can vouch for his good nature. This may not be quite as crucial with a show champion as any successful show dog will have proven itself happy to be handled in the most personal manner by total strangers. Working dogs are a different matter, and occasionally dogs with poor temperaments do succeed in competition and are used at stud. Health Health credentials are essential. Follow this link to read all about inherited diseases in Labradors and read our article on health checks. I cannot stress this too much. You must physically check certificates or copies of certificates way in advance of collecting your puppy. It is very hard to turn down a puppy once he is in your arms. Ability Ability is important if you have an activity in mind for your dog. If your aim is to compete in working trials, you might want to choose a puppy whose ancestors have been successful in that sport. Choosing a litter Narrowing down your choice to a single litter can be tough. Unless you have your heart set on a puppy from a particular dog, you may find it difficult to decide. In many cases though, there are not that many litters that meet the right criteria. You can narrow down your choice further by looking again at the breeder. How friendly and helpful is she? Do you think she will be supportive if you get into difficulties with your puppy? Has she offered to take the puppy back at any point in his life if you cannot cope? If you can answer yes to all three, then that is a real bonus point for that litter. This person is important and you need to feel that you can trust her. A breeder with a lot of dogs may have her pups in an outdoor kennel, but they should still spend lots of time with the family. Check out this article: How to spot a good breeder , and this one How to spot a bad breeder for more information. It pays to be picky. Step 7. Choosing gender Should you buy a dog or a female dog? Some people simply prefer one gender over another. And it is very hard to generalise about the sexes. Male Labradors are no more difficult to train or control than female dogs. And though entire males may be more likely to roam if not supervised in an unfenced property, female dogs can do this too. Females come into season twice a year at which time they may need to be confined to washable floors. They will also need to be kept separate from entire males with vigilance for a period of around three weeks. Neutering a female is more expensive than neutering a male. And older, un-neutered female dogs are prone to a serious and potentially deadly condition called pyometra. These are all things to consider. But overall, it often just boils down to personal preference. Step 8. Choosing your puppy And now for the final and most exciting step Choosing your puppy. Which one of these gorgeous bundles of Labrador loveliness should you take home? One of the very best things you can do when choosing a puppy from a litter, is to take someone experienced with you. Another good reason to choose an experienced and dependable person well in advance. If there is a choice, a good breeder will be able to guide you in this. All they can tell you is what you can hope for from the pedigree, and that the puppy seems OK physically. Check out this article: Choosing the right dog for more information. To make sure all is well, you will need to have your new puppy checked over by your own vet, within a day or two of bringing him home. Health and temperament problems in a large dog can be devastating. Now available in most countries, the handbook is already a bestseller in the UK. However, a healthy six-month-old labrador will grow significantly in size. Some of them can weigh up to 50 pounds. For a more balanced diet at six months, you can shift from feeding your puppy three smaller meals per day to two meals a day. To counteract this, you can drop the amount of food and gradually increase it. Setting Your Lab Puppy Up for Successful Potty Training Training an animal to control their bladders until you get outside is no different than potty-training for toddlers. In other words, crate training speeds up the potty-training process for your pet. Effective crate training depends on two things: Praising and rewarding your puppy for relieving itself outside. They come to understand this as a desirable behavior. Preventing your puppy from going to the toilet within the home. So, why is using a crate to train your puppy to go outside so effective? Initially, this should be every hour or so. As labs grow older, you can reduce the frequency as they learn to hold and release independently. Step 2: House Training a Lab Puppy Housetraining or potty-training small labs can be, well, frustrating. As a pet owner, there are simple ways to train your puppy to understand ideal behavior quickly. Instead, they simply forget that they should control it. This helps avoid any issues early on. Keep small labrador puppies off the carpet. How to Feed Your Dog for Optimal Growth Feeding your labrador puppy a balanced diet could be an entire guide all on its own. It can feel overwhelming because you do have many options when it comes to feeding your dog. For example, if you work from home, it would be easy to feed your dog homemade dog food. Similarly, you might work a and yet want to reap the health-related benefits of a raw diet. Make sure to speak to your vet first. You do have choices for what to feed your puppy and you can mix and match these. Popular feeding options for any animal include kibble, wet food, raw food, and home-cooked food. Remember, a puppy is still growing, and they need a complete profile of nutrients and minerals to support their development. There are many commercial brands of dry food or kibble to choose from and you can adjust what you buy based on the ingredients. Do your research and find a brand you trust, with as much bioavailable nutritional content as is helpful. These can harm your puppy. In order to maintain good health and prevent simple ailments, your puppy can also benefit from taking a supplement. Some families choose to mix scraps or raw food with kibble to provide moisture and decrease the amount of food versus the calories consumed. Any veterinarian will tell you that a hard and fast rule is not necessarily the type of food but the amount. Obesity is a condition that can lead to many health issues for this breed. Over-exertion, especially for a puppy, is possible. This includes activities like playing fetch or tug and release. However, breeds that worked as a hunting companion for humans love to be active. Again, this goes back to the strengths of the breed. Keeping up with your puppy could be a task-and-a-half, so in the first months of life, you should be keeping them in your backyard or playing with them at home. As they become house trained and get all their vaccinations, you can turn walks into light jogs or runs if you want. In the long-term, exercise will help keep dogs healthy and disease-free. However, early dog training can eliminate common problems with puppy temperament and help make sure that your fur friend is always as friendly and happy as possible through the years. Puppy socialization simply means making your puppy open to and familiar with new experiences. You want to provide stimulation and encounters with experiences that they will probably face as adults. The window of opportunity to make sure your puppy is always a happy and friendly pooch closes around 14 weeks. Pre-Vaccination Lab Puppy Socialization Any veterinarian will tell you that a puppy is all done with their vaccinations after 12 weeks of age. The main point is to keep your puppy away from other dogs who may not yet be vaccinated or the excrement and markings of other animals that could carry data diseases. You can head to an off-leash dog park to allow them to explore and meet other fur friends. You can also take them beyond your backyard to the countryside to enable them to swim or set up obstacle courses and play with them. Another thing that people forget about is spaying or neutering their dogs. Spaying or neutering your dog could help with behavioral issues and can also reduce the onset of certain health conditions. At the same time, spaying or neutering a puppy too early may also lead to health issues. For many people, this is a worthwhile and even enjoyable trade-off. A happy, sociable dog is always the result of consistent training. Training your dog is a significant aspect of their early years. The different stages include: Get it — Using positive reinforcement, trainers will help your dog carry out actions without commands. Teach it — This stage harnesses the progress you made in the previous stages. Your dog now knows the word and the action that goes with it. Proof it — Proofing is where many people get stuck. Your dog will learn to listen and obey commands at this stage even when they are engaged in other things. Maintain it — Consistently using the techniques you learned to keep your dog following the same desirable behavior. All breeds of dogs respond best when you train them. Every labrador retriever relies on their human taking control and showing them how to respond in any situation. You can be sure that if you follow these tips that you will be taking proper care of your new puppy and will be able to make sure that your puppy will live a long and healthy life. Share on. Almost all the pet lovers who want to buy a new dog for themselves might have thought several times about owning a Labrador. Labradors show their best side when they are happy and excited. These breeds love to please their owners and wait eagerly for their commands. There are some simple yet highly effective methods on how you can keep your labrador retrievers healthy and happy. Some of the tips given below would also help you to eliminate undesirable behaviour in your dogs. So, let us begin with the discussion. Daily Brushing of Coat Labradors are dogs who shed a lot. You will see them losing a lot of hair during autumn and spring. By brushing their hair daily, you can make them immaculately clean and cut down the amount of hair fall as well. Brushing also stimulates the natural oils of the skin, which keeps their coats shining. Find a suitable dog brush for your labrador that will help you remove their dead hairs and keep their dense undercoat clean. Regular Exercise Labradors are breeds who exhibit high energy levels and hence need regular exercise to keep them fit, both physically and mentally. If you notice that your dog has gained some serious weight without overfeeding or has developed an excessive chewing habit, know that they are under-exercised. A normal, healthy labrador would need 1 hour of daily exercise. If you have a relaxed labrador, then the physical activity of 30 mins to 45 mins would be enough. At the same time, puppies should be excluded from vigorous exercises, as their bones would be soft and tender at this stage. Five minutes of exercise for each month of their age should be enough for them until they reach one year. Provide them with a Healthy Diet Labradors are dogs who love to eat. They can manipulate their owners into getting the stuff that they see in front of their eyes. Therefore, it is necessary to feed them a diet that is not only delicious but also nutritiously fulfilling. Foods having Omega 3 fatty acids are also vital for them to maintain a healthy coat and to reduce shedding. Begin Their Training Early As labradors generally have a lovely temperament, most dog owners stop their training just after housebreaking. This can get quite risky, as labs are a large breed and may become hard to control without proper training. Also, remember that rewarding them adequately with delicious treats goes a long way in training them quickly. Give them Chew Resistant Dog Toys As mentioned above, labradors can indulge in excessive chewing behaviour if their daily exercise requirements are not met. They show this tendency even when you leave the house for a short while. So, it will be useful if you have good chew-resistant toys for your dog. With the help of these toys, you not only keep them engaged but also give a healthy outlet to release their pent up energy. They love to be around people and exhibit the same level of enthusiasm with a toddler and an older person. It would be best to avoid tying your labs outside as they desire to be a part of their family. Take them with you if you go for walks regularly in the park. If you feel your lab is over-enthusiastic, buy a suitable dog collar that can help you to control them effectively. Play With Them Endlessly Nothing can be more exhilarating for a labrador than an endless playing session with their owner. It is also one of the ways to build a strong bond with them. Whenever you get a chance, play with your lab, whether it is indoors or outdoors. Labradors love to play the fetch as they are genetically a retriever breed who were bred to hunt. This game keeps them engaged and gives them a sense of accomplishment each time they chase their toy. All in all, Labrador Retrievers are dogs whose cute and innocent looks can make you fall in love with them. As their proud owners, you can do many things for them in return for their incredible love and affection. The tips given above would help you a lot in keeping them jubilant as well as healthy. Shower them with your love and see how the bond between you two grows. An avid nature and animal lover, Akhil likes to read and watch anything related to wildlife. He also has a great interest in athletics, mainly track and field events and is a big Masala Dosa fan. More like this.

Welcome to New England Bernedoodles we are a family-owned breeder of exceptional Bernedoodles. We breed for temperament, trainability, and affectionate, lovable companions for any family. We started with this breed after having Australian Labradoodles for many years. However, the shedding and the largeness of the breed were off putting. We decided to put our understanding of genetics to work and combine quality, loving, gentle Bernese Mountain dogs with smart, affectionate poodles to produce Bernedoodles here at New England Bernedoodles. We are also producing the Australian Bernedoodle. Yes, they really are low to non-shedding. We here at New England Bernedoodles breed specifically for temperament so we know that our bernedoodles will excel in gentleness, trainability, love and sweet demeanor. Our bernedoodles have exceptional beautiful coats. There is nothing like snuggling up close to your New England Bernedoodle. New England Bernedoodles strive for excellence and we produce puppies that are extremely intelligent, abundantly affectionate and forever your best friend. Life Span Did You Know? They tend to be affectionate and loving dogs that make great family pets. They are even known to make great therapy dogs! Although they are not recognized by the American Kennel Club, they are recognized by other canine registries. One of the facts about Bernedoodles is that they are true companion dogs. They are cuddly companions that love nothing more than being with their favorite humans. As long as they are well-socialized and trained, Mini Bernedoodles tend to get along well with children, other dogs, other pets, and even strangers. Miniature Bernedoodles are highly adaptable dogs. They do well in larger homes as well as apartments. They are sensitive to heat and extreme cold, but do well in most climates. Because they bond so closely with their families and thrive on attention, they do not like to be left alone for long periods of time and can develop separation anxiety if you do not work with them early on. Good breeding practices make a big difference in the health of puppies. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. You can ask about the health and genetic history of the parents and about any health tests or clearances that have been done. Mini Bernedoodles are intelligent dogs that pick up on things quickly and are eager to please. This makes them a highly trainable dog that is a good fit for owners of all experience levels. They can become stubborn if training is not consistent or clear. Although their coat tends to be low-shedding and will range from straight to wavy or curly, the Mini Bernedoodle coat requires some maintenance. Daily brushing is recommended to remove tangles and prevent mats. Professional grooming is recommended every weeks. Nail trims once or twice monthly keep them from growing too long and causing issues. Ear checks on a weekly basis with careful cleanings as needed help to prevent ear infections. As a small dog breed, Mini Bernedoodles are more prone to developing gum disease. Good dental care for dogs early and consistently throughout their life can help prevent painful dental diseases later in life. Daily tooth brushing, plus cleanings at the vet as needed, is ideal. Although Mini Bernedoodles will be playful and have bursts of energy while playing, they are not high-energy dogs. They tend to sit in a more moderate range. Daily walks plus some playtime throughout the day are usually enough for them. But, they love spending time with you and will likely be up for more activity if you are. They may be smaller dogs, but they also tend to be relatively athletic. When puppies finish growing , you can try higher-impact activities like running, hiking, training for dog sports, and more. Fully-grown Mini Bernedoodles usually stand inches tall. They can range from pounds. F1B and F2 Mini Bernedoodles usually weigh pounds and are on the shorter side of the range. Mini Bernedoodles generally live for years on average. Featured Mini Bernedoodle Article. View Our Available Puppies! You should not confuse Mini Bernedoodles with Standard Bernedoodles. Our adorable Mini Bernedoodle are of the F1 variety. All the doodle moms are purebred Genetic Tested Bernese Mountain dog females. Our mini Bernedoodle pups usually end up weighing pounds and around inches tall when full grown. Most Mini bernedoodles live to be around years old. Mini Bernedoodles have become really popular because they shed very little after they shed their puppy coat, they are very hypoallergenic. We have specialized in breeding Mini Bernedoodles as well as a few other breeds for many years. They are a big part of our family and farm. We have also partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. We usually have a good selection of very high quality doodle puppies. So if you live near Aberdeen Maryland and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Bernedoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are a few of our Mini Bernedoodle Pups!

Email: [email protected] 4. Boxer Blvd The simple story of Boxer Blvd. All this family wanted was to breed and raise future best friends and equal family members. They wanted to show the world that Boxers, despite some stigma around them, can be wonderful pets. Boxer Blvd. They can offer you Euro and German Boxers, as well as many different Boxer coat colors , including brindle, reverse brindle, black and white, mahogany, and black. All you have to do is pick a puppy! You will need to contact the breeder for information about the price since every litter can be submitted to changes. Ohio State Boxers I always appreciate an honest breeder who sells puppies with limited registration paperwork. Raising high-quality Boxers is the main goal of every good breeder, and Ohio State Boxers is one of them. Meeting new families and making them happy by allowing them to adopt one of the Ohio State Boxers is what keeps the people behind this small breeding business going. You will appreciate the fact that you can drive there to pick the puppy in person. Video calls are fine, too, as long as you show great interest in enriching your life with a Boxer puppy. When the time comes for a puppy to leave for its new home, it will be checked by the vet, dewormed, vaccinated, and have its dew claws and tail fixed. You get a puppy ready to face its new world. All you need to do is love him and take great care of his health. Ohio State Boxers invites you to come over and see their modern kennels and green fields where their puppies spend their days playing around and exercising. She fell for his Boxer who was competing in dog conformation shows back then! All jokes aside, the couple joined forces and began breeding Boxers, with lots of prior experience coming from Glenn. Just a year after they first met, Cindy bought her first Boxer. Many breeders claim they want to produce only show-quality Boxers, but not Cindy and Glenn. Over the years, the couple kept on learning how to become the best Boxer experts in the state of Ohio. For this reason, we included these online Boxer breeders for you to check as well. Thus, you can also check a Boxer breeder here. The great thing is that it has an online marketplace to search for a Boxer puppy from any of the states. Since they cover all kinds of breeds, you may find an available puppy through this website. Another thing to note is that you also need to prepare for other costs. In short, aside from the actual cost of the puppy from a breeder, you still need to spend money on other items. Like a new baby in the family, your pup needs some items and some changes. A new puppy at home is a concern for all the family members. Thus, they need to prepare for it as well. As you have your meeting, try to make a schedule of tasks and distribution of responsibilities. Prepare your home. Preparing a home for your Boxer puppy means making it a safe place to play and live. Thus, you need to secure every item that can potentially harm your pet. Moreover, you need to secure your items that your pet can damage, such as shoes, carpets, floor mats, and so on. Shop for supplies. Like all other puppies and babies, Boxer pups needs items for its daily life. The essential things it needs would be beddings, food, and food bowls. You also need to buy a leash and collar for identification. Create a schedule. Besides your pet, you also have your responsibilities. Try to schedule how your pup should do for the day and when you need to pay attention. The great thing about creating a schedule is that it will benefit both you and your pet. Choosing a Good Boxer Seller and Breeder The best Boxer puppies only come from those who take an extra mile in caring for them. Below are certain qualities that you should look for in a Boxer puppy breeder. The Boxer breeder should only breed Boxer puppies. A single breed should be the first thing to remember when searching for a reputable Boxer breeder. Every breed has a mating season to which they breed. If the Boxer breeder sells quite a lot of pups but only has a pair of parents, you can think that it forces the parents to mate so they can have puppies to sell. The Boxer breeder should train pups in their first weeks. Every reputable Boxer breeder gives all the pups around eight weeks at least to stay with their parents. In such a time, the breeder should train the pups before it moves to its new home. The Boxer breeder would continuously be in touch. Other states. For the complete list please see our Boxer Breeders List page. Prices may also vary depending on the gender and the lineage of a Boxer. If you want a pure-breed Boxer, expect to pay more money for it as compared to those that have been mixed with other breeds. A reputable breeder charging more for their puppies does not necessarily mean that he is selling high-quality Boxers. The factors that influence the price of a boxer puppy are as follows: Gender: Male dogs cost more than female ones because they have been proven to be better guard dogs and protectors. Pure-bred male Boxers can also produce a higher number of offspring as compared to females. White color: White is an uncommon color among pure-bred Boxers, thus increasing the price of a white puppy. However, it is not always true as some breeders only charge high prices for their puppies to attract buyers and then they sell low-quality ones after scaring away most of their customers. You need to find reputable Ohio Boxer breeders who can provide you with detailed information on their lineage and history before buying one. You can also ask your veterinarian about the breed line of the dog you want to buy and check out its medical records. Boxers do not usually bark for no reason unlike most dogs, which is great if you live in an apartment. This breed can make a good watchdog because of its loyalty and alertness. CONS: Boxers have high levels of energy that sometimes can be hard to handle. The Boxer breed tends to drool more than other breeds out there. You can do this by searching for them online or asking your veterinarian about reputable ones to work with. Visit their facilities and see if they are clean enough. If not, look for another breeder as you should avoid buying puppies from dirty and poorly maintained facilities. Ask the Boxer breeder whether he screens his breeding stock for genetic disorders and asks for health certifications to ensure that his dogs will produce healthy offspring. Also, ask him if there is a return policy in case your puppy does develop any medical conditions later on so you can bring it back and claim a refund or exchange it with another pup. It is important that you meet both of the parents of your Boxer puppy. This is to ensure that they are healthy, and you can also get an idea on how big your puppy will grow when it reaches adulthood. You should not buy puppies from sellers who cannot provide proof of vaccinations for their dogs. It is essential to keep your pets safe from infectious diseases so always purchase only pups with proof of vaccinations against parvo, distemper, rabies, etc. Make sure that you carefully read any contract or agreement before buying a Boxer pup. Some of these questions include inquiries about their breeding operations if they perform any kinds of medical tests on their adult Boxers prior to breeding them, how often do they clean their kennels and runs, etc. Visit the facility first before buying a puppy from them. Make sure that it is clean and spacious enough so your pup will have enough room to play around. Also, look for other puppies kept at the same place as this can provide an idea of whether their facilities are properly maintained or not. Visit more than one breeder as this way, you can compare their qualities and prices as well. People who have previously bought pups from them can give unbiased information about their pets so you can use this as a gauge if their dogs are worth buying or not. If a breeder is reluctant to provide you with references, think twice before buying their puppies as this may be an indicator that they are not reputable or do not have enough clients to ask for referrals. You might even get to hear about the experiences of other people who have worked with or bought Boxer puppies from your Ohio breeder. This is an important thing for you to do as it can help you make better decisions when it comes to choosing a Breeder in Ohio. Meeting past customers will also give you better insights about the Boxer breeders in Ohio so it is important to take advantage of this information. This can help you avoid falling into the wrong hands and finding yourself with a poor quality puppy or one that has inherited genetic disorders. You can find out more about the breeder by finding out the vet they use. This is important as our pets tend to be more susceptible to diseases as they grow old or become overweight which can lead to various health problems that may affect their lifespan. It is best to meet the breeder first before buying a pup from them. A breeder should be able to welcome your questions and concerns about their dogs and pups that they provide. If a seller is reluctant about giving you documents, refuses to show their facilities or does not let you visit them, these are some of the signs of an unethical breeder who is only after your money. Another sign to look out for when it comes to finding a good Boxer dog breeder in Ohio is if they ask money from you without providing any tangible proof that their dogs are healthy and have been inoculated against all kinds of infections. Avoid getting into commitments with them as this way, your chances of falling prey to frauds and scams become higher and higher. How to Prepare Your Home for Your Boxer Puppy In order for your Ohio Boxer puppy to have a very comfortable and enjoyable stay in your home, there are a few things that you should do first before bringing it into the house. The first thing you can do is prepare an area where it can sleep. You must also check the temperature of the place where your pup will be staying at by using a thermometer. The same goes with very hot areas as your Boxer might end up overheating. Water and food bowls should also be placed inside the area where your soon-to-be pet will stay at. Add some pillows, toys, bedsheets and other comforts to make it feel like its own room. Potty Training Your New Boxer Puppy Ohio breeders — Before you bring your Boxer home, It is best to know as much as possible about it before you decide to bring one into the house. The use of newspapers is also effective in places where pups relieve themselves but only for a short period of time as they can develop health and sanitation problems if left alone for too long. Remember, patience is a virtue in training your Boxer Puppy. I love animals and love helping people adopt a pet. It all started when attending Missouri State University and I began volunteering at an animal shelter.

By Chris Lab puppies are the definition of cuteness. But they are not always the angels they seem! What can you do when your Labrador puppy develops a biting habit? How to stop a Lab puppy from biting? These adorable little guys possess some not-so-good behaviors, especially during the first few months of their lives, a major one being biting. At first, it may seem cute, but it can be irksome, especially when your pup starts destroying things around your house or even begins biting you. Read on to learn some valuable tips on how to train your Labrador puppy to stop biting. What Causes Puppy Biting? Teething in puppies often starts when they are approximately three weeks old. By the time they are six weeks old, these little guys will have all 28 deciduous teeth. When your pup is around 12 weeks old, it will start shedding these teeth, paving the way for the permanent teeth to grow. You may notice these teeth around your home, but most likely, your furry little friend will swallow these teeth while eating. Your puppy tends to chew on everything because the teething process is quite uncomfortable and painful. That is why it will bite and nip on anything to try and relieve that pain. You may also notice your pet drooling excessively and not eating much during this phase. Even strong swimmers like Labs need a break every now and then Your Puppy Is Exploring Its Surrounding During the socialization stage which is from 4 to 12 weeks of age , puppies tend to bite and nip as a way of exploring their environment. At this stage, your pup will chew anything out of curiosity and to test its social boundaries. Separation Anxiety Puppies and older dogs who suffer from separation anxiety mostly exhibit destructive behaviors such as excessive biting. Separation anxiety is basically when your puppy becomes agitated, anxious, or depressed when you prepare to leave, or you have already left. Typically, puppies require between 16 to 18 hours of sleep every day. When they do not get enough sleep, they may begin exhibiting destructive behaviors such as excessive biting. Puppies who have the zoomies tend to show behaviors such as barking and biting excessively, running and spinning around, and so on. A lack of exercise is the leading cause of dog zoomies. These destructive behaviors are a way for your puppy to release that pent-up energy it has held in for quite some time. Here are a few ways on how to train your puppy to stop biting. Labradors are huge fans of babies as they age. Active families love a Lab! Try Bite Inhibition Bite inhibition is one of the most common methods puppy owners use to train their pups to stop biting. This is simply training it on how to control the force of its bites. Of course, you cannot entirely train a puppy to stop biting because it is part of how they socialize. Usually, puppies nip at each other while playing with their littermates or mothers. When your pup bites another puppy too hard, it will yelp, scaring your puppy enough to let go. You can take advantage of this behavior and teach your dog how much biting is acceptable. When it releases you, try ignoring it for approximately 10 to 20 minutes, then continue petting and playing with it. Another way to train your puppy to stop biting is by using positive punishment. Apart from yelping when it bites, you can also use a calm but firm voice to make it stop that behavior. Unlike humans, yelling at your puppy makes it more hyperactive and excited, making the habit even worse. When your puppy is biting excessively, you can gently place it in its cage for a couple of minutes until it calms down. However, it is essential to use this method sparingly to prevent your dog from developing negative responses. This may lead to your pup acting up when it sees someone walking towards it, which can be dangerous. It is also essential to reward your puppy when it calms down and stops biting, as it will help reinforce that positive behavior. If your pup tries biting your finger or hand, you can pull it away quickly before it does and provide a chewy toy for it to nip on instead. Do Labs like water? However, there are many things to consider when shopping for the ideal chew toy for your puppy. If you notice that your puppy shreds or destroys something it bites on within minutes, you should get a chew toy made of rubber or hard plastic. When choosing a chew toy for your furry little pal, make sure it is a good size for your puppy. Go for a toy that is not too big for your pup to carry and not too small that it can swallow and get lodged in its throat. It is also recommendable to get a treat-toy for your puppy. These toys allow you to stash some treats in them to elicit more interest. Such toys will help keep your puppy engaged enough to stop chewing on things around your home. Allow Your Puppy to Socialize With Other Puppies Arranging a playdate with other puppies is also a great way to train your puppy to stop biting. Like we mentioned earlier, puppies bite and nip at each other when playing. When one pup bites the other one too hard, it yelps, making the puppy stop nipping. This response helps your dog learn how much force of a bite is unacceptable. Is your dog a Prince or Princess? A Hero or a Pauper? Jasmine or Aladdin type? Would you give your puppy a Disney dog name? Conclusion While puppy biting is normal, it can become dangerous and uncomfortable as they grow older. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. You turn your attention back to your computer screen and suddenly feel little teeth grabbing at your sock! You look down. Your once-angelic puppy is now having a full on game of tug-of-war with your pant leg! This cute baby is now more like a furry little monster. You get up and try to walk away, but the fur alligator is still attached, munching away at your trousers and having the best time! If this sounds like your life, read on to learn how to stop a puppy from biting. Why Do Puppies Bite? Believe it or not, this scenario is actually very common! Biting is one of the most natural things in the world to a young pup; and they do it for many reasons. You would be left with your feet and mouth to interact, taste and feel your environment. Now, what if you had puppy paws — incapable of grasping anything? That leaves you with one final way to interact — your mouth. For good measure, add in the incredible curiosity of a child. How many times do you see a baby grab things with their hands and pop them into the mouth? Puppies have that same mindset. Your mouth strength and play bite helped you communicate and determine your rank in society. Your mouthy mojo gave you respect in canine culture. Puppies interact with their surroundings largely through their mouths. Labradors, like most sporting breeds, have the drive to chase after prey, put it in their mouths, and bring it back to you. This translates into a strong need to chew. They will try this same tactic with their human pack members. If ignored, one bite on the toe is often enough to get the focus back on them. Remember, to a puppy even negative attention is still attention. Terrible Teething When you add teething into the mix, you have the recipe for a furry gator. Most pups will have an increased need to chew while teething , which can begin at 6 weeks and last to 8 months of age. Unlike teething, there is no magical age that puppies grow out of a learned mouthing behavior. Thankfully, with positive training, most dogs eventually lose interest in chewing on their owners. Types of Biting: Aggression or Play? Puppies use their teeth in many ways. However, this is actually just very intense play. Play biting can be accompanied with growling and snarling. This is just part of the fun to a young pup. Instead, we will look into how we can prevent playful mouthing. However, it is important to recognize the signs of aggression. Pay attention to the timing of the biting as well. If so, the motive behind the bite may be more aggressive. Could it be Resource Guarding? Some dogs also aggressively bite when they are guarding a toy or food item, commonly called resource guarding. With resource guarding, you will see the same behavior as aggressive biting, but they will also stand over an object and defend it from any perceived threat. If you think your puppy is behaving aggressively, seek professional help to learn how to actively manage this issue. In contrast to this, playing puppies will be relaxed and have a wiggly body. They will be bouncy, easily roll onto their backs and often be panting with open mouths. Even if they are growling, a relaxed face and body mean a happy puppy. What Can Trigger Biting? Do you really want your pound Labrador to target your hands as a toy later? Children Little kids tend to excite puppies more than adults. Children move erratically, run around, make strange sounds and have a lot more energy. Puppies can easily associate them with toys. Ankle Biters Puppies target fast moving objects that excite their prey drive. Your feet moving by at their eye level can be irresistible. After all, what self-respecting puppy would snub shoes with those floppy laces that are perfect for playing tug? How do we do this? Redirection with Hands When training your puppy, always have a toy to offer. Remember, puppies are like babies. Your job is to redirect them to fun toys instead of human skin. You must do everything possible to make toys extremely attractive so the puppy chooses them over your clothing, hands or feet. Redirection with Kids You can also use redirection around children. First, teach your puppy to use interactive toys and then show your child how to play with the puppy correctly. In the event that your dog forgets, teach your kids to be a tree when their puppy begins to bite them or their clothes. This position makes them less interactive to the puppy. They look boring and the puppy will lose interest. Most bites occur because the child is running or moving erratically. Remember, dogs have the same prey triggers as wolves. If something is running away, it looks like prey. Your job, therefore, is to have an even more amazing toy than your feet. You can take a toy, tie it to a rope, and then tie the rope to your belt so that you are dragging the toy whenever your pup is out. If your puppy is coming for your feet, stop moving them and wave the toy around excitedly instead. Once the pup is attached to the toy, you can start walking again. This way, they will pounce on the toy instead of you! Bite inhibition simply means that the puppy learns not to apply too much force behind their teeth. They apply gentle, but firm, pressure to their greeting. Puppies also learn to limit this pressure with their mouths by feedback from pack members. When puppies are little, they learn bite inhibition through play with their siblings. If two pups are tussling, and one bites down too hard, the other puppy yelps loudly. This startling sound usually causes the offending party to let go. The play stops for a few minutes, as the first pup nurses his wounded ego. Play then resumes, but with less brutality. Instead, let the puppy release your hand and then simply get up and and move away from your pup while ignoring them. Your job is to teach them when they bite down on you, the fun stops. Ignore them for about a minute, then return and resume the play and praise them when they focus on the toy. If they bite you too hard again, repeat this process. You can either step over a puppy barrier or go into another room and shut the door. Just make sure they are in a puppy-proof area, as they may take out their frustration on inappropriate household items. You can also keep the puppy on a leash while playing with them. If they bite you, you can calmly tether them to something and then walk out of their reach. Your goal is to correct the puppy only by taking away your fun presence. You should not be threatening or angry. Give them the appropriate time out from the fun interaction to settle down, and then come back with a toy to redirect their energy. Once they understand they have to be gentle, you can then start to ask more of them by ending the game with lighter and lighter pressure on your skin. Finally, you can take the game to the highest standard — no teeth on human skin at all. If you slowly progress to this over weeks, you teach your pup to have a soft mouth. If they do feel the need to put their teeth on a human, they know not to put much pressure into their bite. You need to teach your puppy that human skin is fragile and requires a softer touch than a canine interaction. Your goal for this exercise should be to help your puppy understand that the play and fun things continue as long as they keep their teeth on their toy and not on you! More Ways to Stop Your Puppy Biting While the yelp and time-out method works for most pups, there are additional ways to reinforce good behavior. When your puppy bites your hand, they get a terrible taste. You can use anti-chewing sprays like Bitter Apple to make your hands less appealing. When your puppy bites you, be still and wait for them to react to the bitter taste. When they let go, praise them and redirect them onto a treat or toy. You want the crate to always be associated with only good things. Crates also should be in the middle of the household, with the rest of the pack — not isolated. This is the same way other canine pack members would isolate them. A laundry room or puppy pen works well for this exercise. Make sure the room is comfortable and safe for your puppy. When the puppy is too stimulated, calmly put him in the room with some teething toys and leave. Teaching them interactive games like fetch or bringing you a toy to tug helps show them that they can have even more fun when they play by your rules. Positive play helps develop a bond with your dog. You never want to avoid it, you just want to show them how to play without biting you. Teaching puppies to retrieve objects helps to tire them out, gives them something positive to chase, and focuses their bite on an appropriate item. Plus, most Labradors are pretty good at retrieving! Remember, anytime we ask a puppy to stop a behavior, it should be because they are rewarded in an even more exciting and positive way for doing something else and things our way. The following video shows how. Video: How to Stop a Puppy from Biting This video shows how to use clicker training to stimulate a puppy in situations where they normally would bite; and then reward them when they choose a closed mouth and calm interaction. Dominant Puppies Dogs are individuals. However, as puppies mature, there may be the rare pup that uses biting as a way to take charge. Dominant puppies may bite to show you that they want to be the boss as they mature. This happens naturally among littermates, as all packs have a pecking order. This reinforces to them that you are backing down and that they are the leader in the relationship. Always remain calm and assertive with your puppy, but end the game as soon as they begin vying for leadership instead of playing. Remember, the alternative to not training your dog is a large animal putting his mouth on people. Be patient with your puppy. Remember, mouthing and biting are normal parts of canine culture. If you stay patiently positive, train consistently, and redirect and reward good behavior, you will soon see a puppy that learns to bring you a tug toy instead of shredding your trousers. It is not intended to be nor can it be considered actionable professional advice. It must not be used as an alternative to seeking professional advice from a veterinarian or other certified professional. Please consult a professional before taking any course of action with any medical, health or behavioral related issue. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. We may receive commissions from purchases made via our links. Lab puppies are incredibly cute, but their teeth really hurt when they are puncturing your skin every time you try to play. No one likes to be bitten, so how can you get a lab puppy to stop biting? The best way to stop a Lab puppy from biting is through a combination of proper exercise, training, redirection, and the use of positive affirmation. Most owners attempt at least one of these methods, but it is the combination and use of all of them that will effectively curb unwanted biting. Keep in mind that before you can stop it effectively, you should know why Labrador puppies bite so much. Additionally, know when they tend to naturally stop biting. Only then can you effectively begin to work on preventing them from biting. Lab puppies use their mouths to explore their environment and gather important information. When puppies are growing their adult teeth, they will often chew to soothe the ache along their gums. Labs may also bite to play or out of fear and aggression. Biting for Sensory Information When a puppy bites something, they learn how hard they can bite it, what it tastes like, how it feels, and if they can bite it again. All of this information is stored in a mental catalog your dog looks back on when encountering a similar object. This learning process is very important for puppies to become well-socialized dogs. When a puppy bites another puppy too hard they will lose their playmate. Biting too hard can have negative repercussions! Biting for sensory information is a totally normal behavior for puppies and even adult dogs. Since they don't have hands to explore with, their mouths are the only option. However, if you don't want your dog's mouth on you or your belongings, there are ways to stop this biting but we'll get to that later! Biting for Teething As your Lab matures, their mouths will start to change. Once their adult teeth begin to push up through their gums, the teeth they were born with begin to fall out one by one. It is the same process humans go through when their baby teeth come in and are later replaced with adult teeth. Just like with humans, this process is somewhat painful and incredibly uncomfortable. To help quicken the process, puppies will chew on things to wear down the gum between the new tooth and their mouth. This practice is also very soothing for puppies, especially if they chew on something cold. Biting for Play vs Biting for Aggression In the wild, dogs and wolves play by wrestling around and biting one another. Since your dog sees you as a member of its pack, they will try to play with you in a similar way. Of course, this biting still isn't ideal, but it's important to know the difference between play and real aggression. When a dog bites out of aggression, it is because they are scared, or you are asking them to do something they really don't want to do. Biting out of aggression is important to watch and fix at a young age so you don't end up with an aggressive dog. The most significant indicator of aggressive biting is body language. When a puppy is being playful, their body and facial muscles are relaxed. When a puppy is biting out of aggression, their body will be stiff or frozen, their face will have a lot of tension in it, and their lips may be pulled back in a snarl or growl. If you are seeing a lot of aggression in your puppy, you should contact your Veterinarian to make sure they are not in pain. When a dog suddenly becomes aggressive, they may have an unseen condition that is causing them to lash out. If you get a clear bill of health, you should seek the help of a professional trainer to help you. As we said earlier, as your Labrador matures, they will start to develop adult teeth. This change usually occurs around 12 to 16 weeks of age; the process will reach its end at about 7 months. Therefore, if your Lab is biting to soothe its gums, then the biting should end around the same time their teeth have fully grown in. If your puppy is biting for sensory information and play, it will lessen as your Lab matures and begins to slow down. While there is no magic number that says when your Lab will calm down , it usually happens between the ages of 2 and 4. First, don't hit your puppy as punishment. They aren't doing anything wrong in their mind because biting is natural. You also can't decide when it is and isn't okay to bite. Doing so can cause great confusion. When trying to prevent your Lab from biting, a few tips can help you. Exercise, training, redirecting, and positive affirmations are your secret weapons against those adorable, tiny, sharp teeth. Exercise Exercising your Lab daily will cause them to be too exhausted to do anything but sleep, let alone bite you. You can exercise your Lab by playing fetch, going on walks, or using enrichment toys. Training First, I recommend formal fundamental training before attempting anything specialized. Training your Lab not to bite sounds complicated, but it can be as easy as slapping some butter and seasoning on. If your Lab is biting YOU, put some butter on your arms and clothes wear they like to bite you. Show the butter to your Lab, and when they lick at it, say "yes, kisses, yes. This associates the word "kisses" with the act of licking and the yummy taste your dog gets. The next time your Lab tries to bite you, say "kisses," they should start to lick you instead as they try for the yummy taste. If your Lab is biting furniture or shoes, there is another approach. Grab a spicy seasoning, like paprika or taco seasoning, and sprinkle it on the places your Lab chews. Then, the next time they go to chew it, they will get a nasty taste in their mouth and leave the thing alone! Redirecting Redirecting your dog to things they are allowed to chew on when playing is another way to avoid being bitten. Have some good chew toys handy whenever you are playing with your Lab. When your Lab starts to bite you, show them a chew toy and try directing the bite towards it. After a while, your puppy should go after its toys instead of you. This type of training takes time , but is proven to be very effective. Positive Affirmation When your dog does what you want, whether it's licking or going for a proper toy, make sure you give them lots of praise. Tell them how good they are and even provide them with a treat or two! Final Thoughts Biting is a natural part of a Lab's life, but it is crucial to decipher playful nips and aggressive ones. Playful body language is loose and relaxed Aggressive body language is stiff and snarling If you are seeing a lot of aggressive body language in your Lab, make sure they are healthy and contact a trainer A Lab will probably stop biting after they stop teething If your Lab doesn't stop biting after teething, they should stop upon reaching maturity between 2 and 4 years of age Exercise, training, redirecting, and positive affirmation are the best ways to stop biting NEVER hit your dog to stop biting. This awful biting time with puppies seems like it will go on for ever, but actually it only lasts a few weeks - mostly by the time the new teeth have come through, at about four to five months, the biting stops, and soon you will find you have a dog with a gentle mouth. You may not realize it, but your puppy is already being careful to some extent - if you have ever fed a puppy a raw chicken wing, for instance, you will know that he would be completely capable of biting right through your fingers, if he really wanted to. He is already pulling his punches, and now just needs your help to learn that human skin is more delicate than the thick fur of his mother and siblings. Your puppy sounds like he gets wound up and overtired the mad running around the house. This is the time a crate or quiet area can work wonders. Stay calm, keep giving him toys and chews to chomp on instead of your hands, refuse to interact with him when he bites you - even a second or two of no attention will help him to realize you really don't like it. Grabbing his cheeks and pulling him obviously doesn't work, he probably thinks it's some kind of game, and the attention you are inadvertently bestowing on him in that way seems to be making the situation worse.It will help if you teach him what you DO want, which is calm, gentle behaviour. Don't forget to praise him quietly and calmly when he is being good and quiet. I found holding one end of a chew such as a bully stick , so that we were interacting without him actually hurting me, helped. I also found that working out a routine was very helpful, so that we would go outside to play, then he would have his food, go out again to pee, then I would put him in his bed in the crate or behind a gate for a rest. Don't panic, this is very normal puppy behaviour, and I guarantee it will pass. You will get there. In a couple of months you'll be telling us what a delight he is.But as your kids approach the puppy, he starts biting and nipping them, causing a few surprised cries. The AKC says Labradors are an affectionate breed, treating adults, children, and other animals like family without causing any trouble. Labradors are easy to train and receptive to learning new commands since their main goal is to please their families. Do All Labrador Puppies Bite? As your new puppy settles into their new home, they are many stimulants, and he needs time to get to know your family, its new surroundings, and that not all slippers are a toy. Just as when people move to a new house, city, or country, your new Labrador puppy is exploring the world. This process will take a few weeks, so be patient. But what happens when he suddenly starts biting you and your kids? Every family that gets lab puppies faces this challenge. Although your puppy is only a few pounds, Labrador puppy biting is still painful. Many owners worry that the behavior will continue into adulthood, especially when biting becomes an ongoing issue. The good news is that there is usually a short time frame that you have to experience this. So in reality, Labrador puppy biting is primarily instinctual. Reason 1: Teething Puppies Sometimes, a Lab puppy biting is simply due to teething. Teething is uncomfortable, so your pup likely just wants to relieve that discomfort in any way possible. If that means biting a chew toy or your fingers, then so be it. Once your Lab puppy has its teeth, it might stop biting and nipping. You can help ease his comfort by offering him teething toys for puppies, like frozen chew toys. Reason 2: Excitement Biting Behavior Your new Lab puppy could get excited by just about anything: Your kids squealing, shouting, or crying, and adults shouting or being angry can set off your Lab puppy biting with its sharp teeth. The solution: Deter your puppy from biting you by redirecting him to what he can bite, like a toy. Reason 3: Biting for Attention Most Labrador puppies are receptive to conditioning and positive reinforcement. Dog lovers know that dogs crave attention from their families, but Lab puppies are extreme attention seekers. They love any form of contact with their families, whether playing, petting, or even just eye contact. So if your pup gets these responses from you while biting, he will interpret them as attention. The solution: Stop giving your puppy the attention he wants when he bites so he learns not to associate the two. When puppies are with their mom and siblings, the mom teaches them how hard they can bite each other without it being too painful through play fighting. Your Lab puppy learns how to calibrate strength based on his own family experience. Do Labrador Puppies Bite Children? One major adjustment is the play-biting: A small Lab puppy has a powerful bite and can cause pain, especially to such sensitive skin. The downside is that Lab puppies are more likely to bite children and teenagers than adults. It all comes down to learning how to interact with the puppy. Children and teenagers are inherently more confusing for a Lab puppy. The great news is that you can stop your Lab puppy from biting your kids through consistent training, but the training should be on both sides. Your kids also need to learn how to play and interact with the puppy, understanding its boundaries and playing just enough to keep them from overexciting. You plan to throw a chew toy into the yard for him to chase — but before you can throw it, he suddenly starts nipping and tugging at your hands while making odd puppy sounds that sound dangerously close to snarling. You might also be worried that you have a puppy displaying aggressive biting behavior. Most of the time, they mean no harm and just need a little training to control it! Without the proper guidance and education, many of these methods might be wrong: Instead of discouraging your puppy from biting, you could unintentionally reinforce it. Puppy Biting Tip 1: Discourage Play Biting Whatever stage of puppy development your adorable pup is in, he will always crave attention. If you encourage and reward play biting, he will associate it with attention, praise, and treats, causing him to do it more. So if your puppy has entered its biting phase and is displaying rough or aggressive behavior, stop yourself from giving any reaction. Simply follow rigid training steps, and it will eventually stop. Although that might be very hard to do because a Lab puppy is so adorable, you will thank yourself in the future for doing this. In fact, it might even make things worse. When you punish your Labrador, he might learn to fear you. This can worsen the biting and lead to your puppy developing more aggressive behavior as an adult. Some people also do a light swat on their puppies when they misbehave. When your pup starts biting, remain calm and follow positive training methods rather than negative ones. This is especially true when it comes to a nipping Labrador puppy. While a biting puppy is normal puppy behavior, without proper training and techniques, your Labrador might bite well into adulthood. Step 1: Teach Small Children Boundaries The first step in your training routine should be teaching your kids how to interact with the puppy. But if they start barking and biting out of excitement, you must stop playing with them immediately. Instead, pick up the toy and step away. Bite inhibition is when you teach your puppy how much is too much. After that time-out, you can return to the room and resume whatever activity you were doing. As your puppy learns to bite with less intensity, you can start training it not to put your hand in its mouth. This training takes time, so be patient, and you will see a positive result. Step 4: Reinforce with Additional Training You can also use other training techniques to reinforce positive behavior. Move your hand closer to the puppy and follow the same technique. If the puppy bites you, walk away from it. As you train the puppy to tolerate your hand getting closer to it without biting, you can finally keep your puppy calm and play safely without causing overstimulated biting. Puppies and dogs might go back to their bad habits if you change how you interact with them, so being consistent is crucial. Remember that children tend to take more time to learn training steps, so always reinforce the boundaries and supervise them during playtime in the early training days. Be patient and give your puppy time to learn. Seek help from professional trainers. Professional dog trainers are experienced in redirection, toy-play, and bite inhibition training to give you helpful tips and tricks. Take your puppy to puppy school. There are hundreds of puppy schools and programs that teach puppies good manners. Remember to never punish your puppy for biting. Invest in some good toys, such as different chew toys or Kong toys, so you always have something to redirect him towards. Conclusion Whether teething, scared or just excited, most Labrador Retriever puppies bite for various reasons. Unfortunately, those sharp little puppy teeth can hurt — so if you notice some unwanted biting from your Lab puppy, you should immediately start training him into different behavior. Learn more about what we do and check out our available Labrador puppies today! Share on. Print How to stop your puppy from biting your hands and feet — fast! Have you ever watched a litter of retriever puppies play with each other? They are all mouths and feet as they growl, bite and paw at each other. Over time, if left to it, each pup will naturally figure out their place in the pack. However, when you bring your Lab puppy home there are no longer littermates with whom to tussle. And the result is often that your Lab puppy will start biting and growling at you! The problem is that puppy teeth are sharp. Very sharp! And when your puppy bites you, even if they are playing, it hurts. So, what can you do to stop this behavior before it gets out of hand and you find yourself or someone in your family injured by your puppy? Before I go any further, I want to be clear about what we are talking about. You should seek professional help and evaluation. Why puppies bite and growl Puppy play is a kind of training for a dog as they grow and mature. It is also a way that dogs determine rank within a group. Remember, dogs are pack animals. In a pack there is only one Alpha lead dog. Every other dog is under the authority and control of that dog. No two dogs share the same rank. So, while biting and growling starts as play, it does not stay that way. All dogs, whether in a group of dogs or a human family, want to understand their place in the family. They need to know their place. It helps they be more mentally balanced and will help solve a multitude of behavioral problems. Once a puppy or dog understands where they rank in the pack, they often assume that place, at least for a while. Remember, they are dogs. They are not robots so occasionally they may challenge their position, but if the boundary remains clear, the challenge is short lived. Biting, nipping and playful growling at a human can become a challenge of dominance. If your puppy is young, you can quickly and easily end this behavior by establishing boundaries and consistently enforcing these boundaries each and every time your puppy shows this type of behavior. If you have let this behavior go on for a while, you may be in for quite a fight to take back your authority. Biting is not the same as chewing A puppy biting your hand or feet is not the same as a puppy chewing on a shoe, toy or other item. All puppies have a need to chew. As their puppy teeth grow and their adult teeth come in, it is common for dogs to chew on things to relieve the pain and help the new teeth to come in. This should not be discouraged, but rather encouraged on an appropriate item like a chew toy, nylabone or rawhide. And if this works, this is an appropriate solution. Instead, it is likely an issue of dominance. How to stop puppy from biting you Biting is just one puppy dominance behavior. There are many others such as jumping on you, putting a paw on your feet, and lifting and placing paws on your arms or legs. The behaviors I have listed are often gateway behaviors that escalate into more aggressive or troublesome behaviors like stealing food off your plate or the counter, pushing you out of the way when going through doors and pulling you around on a lead. Start by establishing firm boundaries The first step to stopping your puppy from biting or mouthing you is to set up firm boundaries for your puppy. You can set these up for not only biting but for all dominance behaviors. So, what is a boundary? Well, here are some examples. Some people we have worked with are okay with their puppy mouthing their hand as long as there is no tooth pressure. If you feel the same way, then make that a boundary. But if there is any tooth pressure, a swift and consistent correction will follow. This boundary is stronger and does not give the dog any room for confusion. In fact, they often will understand what your boundaries are but will test that standard against everyone else in the family. Each person needs to set and enforce boundaries. React with firm consistent corrections After you establish the boundary, you now need to react every time your puppy or dog crosses that boundary. Each and every time! There can be no room for confusion. Your corrections must be swift and consistent. Not all dogs react to the same level of pressure. For some dogs, this squeeze and strong words will be all it takes to stop the behavior. Especially if you are consistent in your correction. But some dogs have a stronger or more challenging personality. This will give your puppy a taste of his own medicine since his puppy teeth are sharp and will pinch into his lips or flews. You must be consistent. How long will it take to stop my puppy from biting me? If you are firm and consistent, the behavior should stop for the most part in a day or two. Some dogs require more pressure, some less. Your puppy should feel some discomfort. That is okay. The point is to show your puppy that biting hurts and that it is not an acceptable behavior. When nothing seems to work If you puppy is a bit older and has been getting away with biting and mouthing you for a while, you may struggle to end this behavior. Often the problem is a strong dominance issue that needs to be addressed. If your puppy continues to snap or bite at you even after a correction, you likely need to exert some dominance over your puppy. This is similar to what a mommy dog does to a puppy that is not behaving. Humans can do the same thing to show dominance over a rebellious puppy. I know, it sound a bit ridiculous but it really does work. Instead, remain calm and patient. Stay in control. Reacting with emotion can lead to strong reactions or punishment that you will later regret. The point is to show your dog that you are the Alpha in the relationship, and you can and will determine what behavior is acceptable. Biting is not love As a professional dog trainer, I am always surprised at what some of clients consider appropriate behavior. Some owners feel that setting boundaries and enforcing those boundaries means that you do not love your dog. That you need to accept all dog behaviors otherwise you do not love your dog. This is a false and faulty mindset. We have seen clients who have been injured by their dog multiple times and they still refuse to take steps to end the behavior. That is not love. What if the next person that dog bites is a child? Would you be able to live with that? A dog that is allowed to continue harming humans is only one bite away from having to be put down. It may sound harsh, but it is the sad truth. Some people may argue that the dog is unable to understand what they are doing is wrong. This is not based on reality. Dogs are very smart. They can learn to do amazing things and become incredible hunting partners and family companions. But they rarely achieve this potential without an owner who cares enough to set boundaries and enforce them. Final thoughts on how to stop my puppy biting me all the time You can stop your puppy from biting you and others if you are willing to take the steps necessary to make your dog understand that biting is not an acceptable behavior. A firm consistent correction each and every time your puppy bites will quickly teach your puppy to stop biting. These corrections will not harm your relationship with your puppy, but will, in fact, enhance it. Your puppy will quickly learn where the boundaries are and how to operate within those boundaries. We see it time and again, once a puppy is taught that there are boundaries, they quickly adjust and become wonderful loving and obedient family members. Help, my Lab puppy keeps biting me! How to train a puppy not to bite Is it normal for puppies to bite a lot? Yes it is! Almost all puppies bite and some bite much harder than others. How long do puppies teeth and bite? With some exceptions, puppy biting will stop by the time your puppy has his full set of grown up teeth at 7 months. Fortunately, you can stop your puppy from biting long before they have cut all their adult teeth. Do puppies grow out of biting? If you do nothing at all, to teach a puppy not to bite, the biting would likely subside over the next few months. But its very easy to do the wrong thing, and actually encourage a puppy to bite more. And in those cases, play biting can become very rough and the relationship between a young dog and their family can break down. Do All Labradors Bite? Anyone who shares their home with a 10 or 12 week old puppy will tell you that Labradors bite! And I can reassure you that this applies to all Labradors in the first few months of life. Fortunately this is a phase puppies go through and not a permanent character flaw. And most adult Labradors are indeed very good natured dogs. And also at what is normal, and what is not. If your children are in tears at being bitten every time they try to play with and cuddle their new friend, you may be wondering if your puppy is becoming aggressive. You may even worry that your children might be at risk. Fortunately I can reassure you that this is not the case. While your puppy may frighten your children with his sharp teeth and growling. The way he is behaving now does not mean he will be a threat to their safety in the future. Happily, studies have shown that behavior in small puppies is not predictive of the way that they will behave as adults! Why Do Puppies Bite Children? Some breeders will not sell puppies to homes where there are small children. This is because puppies often bite children and teenagers harder and more persistently than they bite grown-ups. It is normal for small puppies to make small children cry, but before you rush your puppy off to the local shelter, bear with me a moment, because I can help with that. Children give off conflicting signals to the puppy. Fortunately there are lots of ways to make it easier on yourself and on your kids. In short, you need to be a little patient at this point, and it helps to know that this phase does pass quite quickly. And that it is completely normal for all puppies to bite a lot, and to bite children with particular enthusiasm! It has to be said, Labradors are even more bitey than some other breeds of dog during this stage in their development. In fact, retrievers generally tend to be very bitey as puppies. As can the pain of being bitten. Puppy bites do hurt. And sometimes they leave marks. Pain, bruising, scratching, little tooth marks on your toddler, these are all part and parcel of raising a puppy. Some very enthusiastic puppies will even draw blood on occasions. All this is normal, but I will explain what you can do about it. Perhaps the most serious concern that new puppy parents have, is the fear that their puppy is becoming aggressive. What really worries people is the snarling. When puppies play, they practice being fierce. They throw themselves into the whole play acting thing with huge enthusiasm. And they are brilliant at it. And the most important part of that game is to make as much noise as possible and to sound as angry as possible. So, all puppies growl or snarl ferociously when they play, while they are biting, and sometimes when they are trying to entice their poor owners into yet another game. His little face will be all scrunched up, his lips drawn back, his teeth showing. So he has no idea that he is frightening your children or that you are wondering if he is turning into a horrible aggressive and dangerous beast. Please do be reassured, that however fierce your ten week old puppy sounds. It is just a game. He is truly just playing. Normal Puppy Play Behavior So, the hard truth is, all puppies bite. And many puppy bites are quite painful. Some Labrador puppies bite more than most, and biting a lot, and growling or snarling at the same time is normal. So is biting so hard that it makes your eyes water, and even occasionally breaks the skin. Puppies bite at hands that go to stroke them, at bare feet, and happily tug away at clothing, all the while trying to sound as fierce as they possibly can. All this is normal. And you, quite naturally, will want to know exactly when it is going to stop! When Do Puppies Stop Biting? It also happens in working dog families where the dogs may be kennelled or at least are not allowed unsupervised interaction with anyone apart from their trainer or main carer. A study carried out on Guide Dog puppies in showed that simply rejecting interaction and refusing to play was enough to stop the puppies biting their adult puppy walkers. But, and it is a big but — in most young families, this is not always what happens. In many families, especially where the puppy is a novelty, everyone plays with the puppy, and often in quite a physical way. This gets puppies very excited and tends to make biting worse. Inexperienced puppy owners also tend to inadvertently prolong the biting phase by rewarding the puppy with attention when he bites. The more excited they get, the harder they bite. Rough physical play gets puppies excited, rubbing puppies tummies, chasing puppies, grabbing at puppies. All these things get puppies bubbling with excitement Noisy behavior can get puppies excited too, so children squealing, or crying, grown ups shouting or getting cross. You might not think you are rewarding your puppy for biting, but you probably are. Labrador puppies are particularly social and love attention more than most puppies do. Any kind of contact with you, or other members of the family, including physical contact, talking, shouting, even eye contact, all reward your puppy. And if you give him these things while he is biting, this will reinforce the biting behavior and he will bite more in the future Poor bite inhibition What makes the bites hurt more, is poor bite inhibition. So the next section explains what bite inhibition is and how you can help your puppy improve his. What Is Bite Inhibition? At just eight or nine weeks old , Labrador puppies are actually capable of crushing bones the thickness of your little finger, with their jaws. Your puppy has been learning to inhibit his bite since he was tiny. His mother and brothers and sisters all helped to teach him how hard he can bite without hurting them. This is where your training will come in. You can read more about bite inhibition and bite inhibition training in this article What About Puppy Teething? We mentioned teething earlier because people tend to associate biting with teething. So, is it true that puppies bite so much because they are teething? And how long will teething go on for? In fact, most problem puppy biting is simply play. Puppies may chew or mouth at fingers to help relieve the discomfort of teething, but this is not the major cause of the biting problems we find in homes with small puppies. Most puppies have their adult teeth by the time they are 7 months old, but biting does not usually last that long. He is growing fast and by 11 or 12 weeks those bites will hurt a lot more. The time to begin taking action is now! But for the time being, you need to put this image aside. Children under five are simply not capable of playing with a puppy under four months without getting bitten. So you need to supervise every interaction between them. Do put baby gates across doorways, even if you no longer need them for your children. Baby gates allow you to separate children and puppies when you are not free to supervise. Do show children how to stroke the puppy gently whilst you hold one end of a rawhide chew and let the puppy gnaw on the other end. It will end in tears. Playful Visitors It is not just children that play inappropriately with puppies. I have known grown men grapple roughly with a tiny puppy, rolling him around the floor, making growling noises, whilst the puppy gnaws on his knuckles. You can find out how to play safely with a Labrador in this article. Saving your sanity and enjoying your puppy If you were not expecting this, it can seem like a big deal, but supervision and some separation is essential if you are to keep your sanity, and your children are to dry their tears and carry on enjoying their puppy. With older children, you need to teach them how to interact with the puppy without getting him overwrought. Labrador puppies, like toddlers, are easily over-excited. And when they are over-excited they start to be silly. Your first job at this stage, is to keep your puppy calm. Your second job is to stop giving your puppy rewards for biting. Make sure the puppy gets no reward at all when he bites someone. Especially no attention. The next stage explains how you can do that. The process whereby the puppy learns to use his mouth gently on your skin — and it takes a little while. Bite inhibition is taught in stages. The puppy learns to reduce the power of his bites gradually. What to do when your puppy bites If your puppy bites and hurts you, remove your attention immediately. This is where baby gates can be really helpful. If you are playing with your puppy and he bites you, you can step over the gate, thus effectively removing all attention from him. All of a sudden his playmate has disappeared. What about squealing You may have heard that a puppy will stop biting if you yelp or squeal. And you can try this, because it does work with some puppies. But many puppies get even more excited by the yelping, and on others it has no effect. The strongest signal you can give your puppy is the loss of your presence and attention. What about punishment? Some people try and stop puppies biting by smacking them or shouting at them. There are several problems with this. Firstly, it tends to only stop the puppy biting the person who did the yelling. Which is of course the very opposite of what you are trying to achieve! You can find out more about the potential impact of punishing your Labrador here. What if you need to move a biting puppy? If you need to move the puppy away rather than stepping away from the puppy you may find he bites at your hands when you go to pick him up or take hold of his collar. Others bite when they are stroked or petted. We are fond of wiggling our fingers at puppies, petting them and rubbing our fingers in their fur, not behaviors that dogs really understand. And many puppies see fingers and toes as something to chase and play with. Hands are a particular target for puppy bites so teach your children to interact with your puppy using toys that he can tug and bite on, rather than playing with him using their bare hands. Distracting your puppy If you want to sit and pet your puppy, or your children do, use treats or hold a rawhide chew with one hand so he can gnaw on the end. Have your puppy wear a harness and houseline so that you can pick up the end of the line and move him to where you want him to go without his grabbing at your hands. Stage Four: Train Your Puppy Not To Bite This is where we teach the puppy to let us stroke and pet him, or handle him in any way we like, without him putting his mouth around our fingers. The best way to do this is with a clicker and some dog treats. But you can also use a word like YES instead of the click. And place a treat on the floor in front of him You see where I am going with this? Build up slowly so that you can touch him anywhere on his head or body, pick up his paws etc. All without him grabbing or mouthing at you. What do I do if he mouths at me? If the puppy grabs at your hand, you got too close. Make smaller hand movements further away from him until he ignores those, then bring the movements gradually closer. Stage Five: Playing Safely As puppies grow older biting can reappear. Puppies between six and nine months of age, are extremely boisterous, and may start nipping with their teeth during play. At this age, your puppy is more than half grown, and his size and weight are a significant problem if rough play is allowed. The secret to avoiding and resolving this issue is to change the way you interact with your puppy. And to ensure that children follow your example. Boisterous and excitable puppies must not be allowed to play rough games with small people. The consequences can be very unpleasant, and it is no coincidence that this is the age at which many young dogs are abandoned or given up to rescue. Here are a few more articles that you might find helpful:.